Date   

Re: Registering an SM in Canada

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hello Jeff,

I am Canadian as well and my reg is UK.  Why do you need  CDN surveyor for tonnage?

I used the renowned surveyor named Olivier Beauté, ex director of after sales at Amel. 

He is completely qualified to tell you the tonnage... they are all identical!! 

Good luck

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Opua, NZ


On 17/10/2020, at 6:53 AM, Jeff Williams <jeff99williams@...> wrote:

Hi All,
In the process of buying SM#379 Spruzzo (thinking of keeping the name).  Boat is currently in Sicily and plan on cruising the Med for the next few years.

I'm going to register the boat in Canada....has anyone used a Canadian surveyor to get a Canadian Tonnage Certificate for their SM 2000?
If so can you give me the name of the surveyor?

Thanks!
Jeff Williams  


Re: Toilet Seawater Valves

Craig Briggs
 

Hi Ian,
My forward intake valve handle corroded such that I couldn't turn it and broke off the valve stem trying. The corrosion was from sea water accumulating from an inconspicuous leak in the attached small manifold that branches to the anchor wash which had a pin-hole from corrosion, although it was nicely fabricated by Amel of copper tube. I fabricated a new manifold (actually just a Pex "T" and some nipples) and replaced the valve - easy fix.  Also had one of the head outflow valves seriously freeze up but was able to disassemble the valve in place and clean it up.
--
Cheers, Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Waterproofing the mast and wires for the electric motors

Karen Smith
 

Mike,

There is no real reason to seal them.  They should have a drip leg so most of the water runs off outside the mast, but any water than does follow the wire into the mast runs down and accumulates in a purpose-designed box under the mast in the head, and then drips on the floor of the head, and out the shower drain.  There is a similar arrangement under the mizzen mast, but that box drains into the engine room. At least that's the setup on our boat, SM#160.

This system of managing water that gets into the mast is much better than assuming you can completely eliminate any water intrusion into the wire chase in the mast, which is practically impossible.

The wires should all have a low point drip loop in the drain box, and you should check the outlet of the drain box periodically to be sure it is not plugged up. If it overflows, it soaks the bulkhead, and you really, really, REALLY don't want a water damaged bulkhead.  Somehow seeds eaten by birds end up there, and the pits of some palm fruits and wild cherries are the perfect size to plug the drain!

Bill Kinney
S/V Harmonie
SM#160
Annapolis, MD


Registering an SM in Canada

Jeff Williams
 

Hi All,
In the process of buying SM#379 Spruzzo (thinking of keeping the name).  Boat is currently in Sicily and plan on cruising the Med for the next few years.

I'm going to register the boat in Canada....has anyone used a Canadian surveyor to get a Canadian Tonnage Certificate for their SM 2000?
If so can you give me the name of the surveyor?

Thanks!
Jeff Williams  


Re: Offshore Health Insurance

Thomas Peacock
 

Boy, Kent, you’ve opened up a can of worms, that fortunately non-Americans may not have to deal with.

I don’t know if you have “traditional” Medicare, or the other privately administered plans. I’m not sure how “traditional” Medicare handles overseas illnesses.

However, as Craig pointed out, if you have Part C (so-called Medicare Advantage), privately administered, overseas illnesses are generally paid for. All plans differ. My plan, Aetna Silver PPO, has a $7,550 out of pocket maximum for the year. So, if I were to get ill or injured overseas, I would have to pay the bill. Since it is “out of network”, it is likely that I would be responsible for the first $7,550. In addition, I would have to pay the hospital and doctors myself for the whole bill. However, Aetna would reimburse me for any expenses over the $7,550. 

When I crunched the numbers last year, it did not seem worth it to me to buy overseas insurance. Worst case scenario, I’m out $7,550. The premiums for extra insurance seemed too steep.

I should add that my wife broke her arm in St Lucia. We chose to go a private hospital rather than the government run facility. The hospital bill was over $12,000. They would not admit her to the hospital until I paid in full (credit card). They wouldn’t even take an X-ray until I paid for that. After the deductible, her insurance paid the balance. 

Hope this helps.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay for the winter, public health issues in the Caribbean just seem too iffy, especially with the second wave upon us


On Oct 15, 2020, at 9:48 PM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi all,
I'm looking at health insurance for myself again. I've been basically self-insuring for overseas care and have DAN Boaters insurance for emergency medical  repatriation. Iris has GeoBlue plus DAN.

Depending on deductible and copay, I'm looking at $ 7-8K premium, plus $3-10K deductible and $0-5K copay every year. That's a lot of money to pay when the only thing I could imagine costing that much overseas would be emergency surgery. Anything else and we would fly home to let Medicare pay for it.

I'd be interested to know what everyone else is doing.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Kent&Iris
Kristy
SM 243
Hoping to sail S again in Nov depending on COVID rules in Caribbean and beyond.


--
Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Chesapeake Bay


Toilet Seawater Valves

Ian Townsend
 

Our 1996 SM153 has a seawater valve for each of the toilets. Has anyone with these ever had either the valve or the thruhull fail? A surveyor just told me that he has inspected the same valves/thruhulls on other European boats like a Hallberg-Rassey where they had a failure. Ours are in good shape so I am inclined to keep them with a wood plug nearby in case of a problem. But if there is anyone here on the forum that has experienced an issue, I will change them out. Many thanks. 

Ian Townsend
Loca Lola II
SM153
On the hard in Maryland


Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Craig Briggs
 

Well said, Bill.
Cheers, Craig -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Offshore Health Insurance

Craig Briggs
 

Hey Kent,
Know you're the Doc, but my Medicare Part C plan let's me get reimbursed for overseas care (yes, I've got to pay first and then submit for reimbursement, and it can't exceed "normal and customary" which is a rarity in other countries). Just a thought. Yes, US health care is WAY too complicated. I think I read that overhead costs - insurance companies and government - are much more than the actual health care itself. Glad you're a real Doctor, but you'd have an Amel 60 or maybe two if you had gone into health insurance!
Cheers, Craig
--
SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

 

The answer to the seal orientation of the 3 seals is very simple.

You have 3 seals.
You need to keep the oil in and the water out.
If you had two seals, the answer is clear: one for each.

But, with 3 seals, you should decide which of the following is most important to you:
- Keeping oil in the C-Drive - if this is your priority, Henri Amel agrees with you and so do I - use 2 seals to protect from losing oil
- Keeping water out of the C-Drive - if the is your priority, Henri and I will question your logic, but use 2 seals to protect from water entering.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 6:12 PM Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
A good technique I've used to clean out milky oil is, after the initial drain, refill with diesel oil, then run the engine in gear forward and reverse for a few minutes (feeding water to the engine with a hose). Drain again and repeat until the diesel comes out clear. Two or three times will do the trick and a 6 gallon diesel fuel jerry jug is enough. Then change the wearing-out-bearing, O-ring, seals and drain plug washer and refill with 90 weight gear oil.

Bill Rouse sticks by the Amel recommendation of the three seals facing oil-oil-sea. José Venegas argues convincingly for a water-water-oil configuration, to which I just changed 6 months ago. I think José is now going on 20 years with no milky oil. (Or maybe it just seems like that in these times of covid.)

Great fun,
Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: Offshore Health Insurance

Matt Salatino
 

We used Travelex, much less expensive, includes medivac and flight insurance. We also depend on Medicare in the US.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Oct 15, 2020, at 9:48 PM, karkauai via groups.io <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi all,
I'm looking at health insurance for myself again. I've been basically self-insuring for overseas care and have DAN Boaters insurance for emergency medical  repatriation. Iris has GeoBlue plus DAN.

Depending on deductible and copay, I'm looking at $ 7-8K premium, plus $3-10K deductible and $0-5K copay every year. That's a lot of money to pay when the only thing I could imagine costing that much overseas would be emergency surgery. Anything else and we would fly home to let Medicare pay for it.

I'd be interested to know what everyone else is doing.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Kent&Iris
Kristy
SM 243
Hoping to sail S again in Nov depending on COVID rules in Caribbean and beyond.


Re: Offshore Health Insurance

karkauai
 

Hi all,
I'm looking at health insurance for myself again. I've been basically self-insuring for overseas care and have DAN Boaters insurance for emergency medical  repatriation. Iris has GeoBlue plus DAN.

Depending on deductible and copay, I'm looking at $ 7-8K premium, plus $3-10K deductible and $0-5K copay every year. That's a lot of money to pay when the only thing I could imagine costing that much overseas would be emergency surgery. Anything else and we would fly home to let Medicare pay for it.

I'd be interested to know what everyone else is doing.
Thanks for your thoughts.
Kent&Iris
Kristy
SM 243
Hoping to sail S again in Nov depending on COVID rules in Caribbean and beyond.


Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Craig Briggs
 

A good technique I've used to clean out milky oil is, after the initial drain, refill with diesel oil, then run the engine in gear forward and reverse for a few minutes (feeding water to the engine with a hose). Drain again and repeat until the diesel comes out clear. Two or three times will do the trick and a 6 gallon diesel fuel jerry jug is enough. Then change the wearing-out-bearing, O-ring, seals and drain plug washer and refill with 90 weight gear oil.

Bill Rouse sticks by the Amel recommendation of the three seals facing oil-oil-sea. José Venegas argues convincingly for a water-water-oil configuration, to which I just changed 6 months ago. I think José is now going on 20 years with no milky oil. (Or maybe it just seems like that in these times of covid.)

Great fun,
Craig - SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL


Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Barry Connor
 

Hi Bill,
Thank you for the diagram showing the way the seals should face, exactly correct. My old school Tunisia mechanic explained this to me in detail when I told him I know how after watching the Delos video.
He went into detail even about how to increase the spring tension to make sure that the seals worked.
Having been forced by Covid-19 restrictions to stay here in Martinique at the Amel Caribbean base I am benefiting from help and advice from the Amel manager Alban and getting lots of things bought up to spec.
Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 



On Oct 15, 2020, at 18:04, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


<image.png>

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 4:43 PM Barry Connor via groups.io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Ruedi,

Wow, not again. So sorry to hear this!
I replaced my seals in Tunisia last year and was very grateful to have the small length of pipe you gave me to ensure that the seals went in without any damage to the rims of the 3 seals.
I argued with the mechanic in the Monastir marina for about half an hour about which way they should face. I saw the Delos video and thought I knew exactly the correct way they should face, this mechanic was my age and very old school. I totally lost my bet and he was absolutely correct. He used a whole tub of Volvo blue waterproof grease putting them in. Hope you find someone with his knowledge and experience when you haul out and change them.
Sorry I don’t know anything about sucking out the C-Drive oil when in the water.
I see you are now in Spain? Are you heading this way and crossing soon? I will have the Eno oven available if you still want it with all the fittings and spares and the light weight refillable fibre glass LPG bottles soon. Should be getting the Lithium change over completed by end of this year installing the new Italian electric oven with induction cooktop.

Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 



On Oct 15, 2020, at 12:10, Rudolf Waldispuehl <rudolf@...> wrote:



Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar 


Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Dan Carlson
 

Hello Ruedi, I did have some slight milky color just after changing my seals a previous time.  I don't think they seated properly right away.  First I drained and cleaned our the reservoir well. Then filled it with clean oil. Then I sucked about a liter of the bad oil that comes off of the small "return" line and attaches to the top of the reservoir. I did this twice and that removed some of the milky oil (can't be much as there are 8+ liters in the system).

I can tell you that the water did settle out of what I removed after a few days.  I repeated this twice when the drive was heated up and the oil was mixed up. Then after that it remained clear.  I was using the boat regularly during the next 6 months living aboard in the Caribbean. At the end of the season when I pulled the boat and drained the c-drive only the first liter or so out of the bottom of the drive appeared to have some residual water.  The seals appeared to be in perfect condition.  

I think in my case I only had a small initial contamination and once the seals seated well then there was no subsequent leaking. 

I wish someone could provide a clear explanation of how the oil circulates?  I was able to watch as the drive heated up with use that there was milky oil coming in the return line at the top of the reservoir. There is also a filter screen in the middle of the reservoir that appears to trap some of the water that settles out. For something so important and so discussed I've not seen a good explanation of that. 

Thanks and regards, Daniel and Lori Carlson on sv BeBe, SM #387





On Thu, Oct 15, 2020, 12:11 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar 


Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

 

image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 4:43 PM Barry Connor via groups.io <connor_barry=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Ruedi,

Wow, not again. So sorry to hear this!
I replaced my seals in Tunisia last year and was very grateful to have the small length of pipe you gave me to ensure that the seals went in without any damage to the rims of the 3 seals.
I argued with the mechanic in the Monastir marina for about half an hour about which way they should face. I saw the Delos video and thought I knew exactly the correct way they should face, this mechanic was my age and very old school. I totally lost my bet and he was absolutely correct. He used a whole tub of Volvo blue waterproof grease putting them in. Hope you find someone with his knowledge and experience when you haul out and change them.
Sorry I don’t know anything about sucking out the C-Drive oil when in the water.
I see you are now in Spain? Are you heading this way and crossing soon? I will have the Eno oven available if you still want it with all the fittings and spares and the light weight refillable fibre glass LPG bottles soon. Should be getting the Lithium change over completed by end of this year installing the new Italian electric oven with induction cooktop.

Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 



On Oct 15, 2020, at 12:10, Rudolf Waldispuehl <rudolf@...> wrote:



Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar 


Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

Barry Connor
 

Hi Ruedi,

Wow, not again. So sorry to hear this!
I replaced my seals in Tunisia last year and was very grateful to have the small length of pipe you gave me to ensure that the seals went in without any damage to the rims of the 3 seals.
I argued with the mechanic in the Monastir marina for about half an hour about which way they should face. I saw the Delos video and thought I knew exactly the correct way they should face, this mechanic was my age and very old school. I totally lost my bet and he was absolutely correct. He used a whole tub of Volvo blue waterproof grease putting them in. Hope you find someone with his knowledge and experience when you haul out and change them.
Sorry I don’t know anything about sucking out the C-Drive oil when in the water.
I see you are now in Spain? Are you heading this way and crossing soon? I will have the Eno oven available if you still want it with all the fittings and spares and the light weight refillable fibre glass LPG bottles soon. Should be getting the Lithium change over completed by end of this year installing the new Italian electric oven with induction cooktop.

Very Best 

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54.  #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique 



On Oct 15, 2020, at 12:10, Rudolf Waldispuehl <rudolf@...> wrote:



Dear AMEL Groupies


Is there a way to dain (pump/sucking) out bad Oil from the C-Drive while the boat is in water?
Recently (after 3 years) I got water ingress into the C-Drive. I cannot go out on hard right now for the next 2-3 Month. Haul out it planned for January-21. I don't move the boat anymore but still then, I don’t like. I don't like to have the milky Oil (mix of Oil and Salt water) in the c-drive for such a long Time. 


I was thinking there must be an alternative option to get rid of it while in water. Maybe I could suck that milky stuff out of the C-drive through the hose where the expansion container sits on top? 

Does anyone know if it works? And maybe someone on the forum has even done that?


What is the potential damage of the C-drive having this cream of oil/water inside (without driving the boat) ?


Any idea and advice is very welcome, best regards

Ruedi Waldispuehl

WASABI  - Amel 54 #55
Almerimar 


Re: Wiring Diagram of the 175 amp alternator

Mike Ondra
 

Thanks Eric!

Much easier to read that the first fuzzy image you sent.

Still haven’t been aboard to complete the troubleshooting but plan to do so later this month.

Mike Ondra

ALETSE SM#240

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of eric freedman
Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2020 4:16 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Wiring Diagram of the 175 amp alternator

 

Hi,

Here is a wiring diagram of the wiring of the 175 amp alternator.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Wiring Diagram of the 175 amp alternator

eric freedman
 

Hi,

Here is a wiring diagram of the wiring of the 175 amp alternator.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376

 


Waterproofing the mast and wires for the electric motors

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hello everyone,

I'm curious what methods people use for installing and waterproofing the furler and outhaul motor cables into the mast. Our previous cables were secured and sealed into the mast with gobs of silicon/marine sealant. This certainly worked but didn't look great and made for a challenge when pulling them. Is there a better way? Maybe some type of clamshell or waterproof conduit would be better here? Does anyone have a photo of their set up?

Cheers,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy SM23
Opua, NZ


Re: C-Drive Oil drain - Alternative

 

Rudi, 

I agree with Craig and let me add one other point. If the seals or O ring on the wear bushing are allowing water to pass, I am sure that an increased vacuum will increase the water passing through. I also believe based on the drawing below that the hose that you are referring to would only allow you to pull oil out to the level of the hose fitting just under the top of the C-Drive.
image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Thu, Oct 15, 2020 at 12:22 PM Craig Briggs via groups.io <sangaris=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Rudi,

I commented on this in post #47906, which you might want to read. I suggested that 2-3 months with emulsified water-oil will not cause a problem and show pictures of my pristine drive shaft after 9 months of a "milk" bath.

I doubt that suction on one of the hoses will be effective as both are at the top of the upper unit and you'll just suck air once the oil level drops a bit.
 
Craig, -- SN68 Sangaris, Tropic Isle Harbor, FL

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