Date   

Re: [Amel] Amel Service on East Coast of US

karkauai
 

Hi Francisco abd Odette. I own SM 243 which has a Freedom 80A Charger/Inverter that provides 220v to microwave and receptacles from 24v battery bank. Also has an equalize feature to keep batteries from over-sulfating. Nice system.
Kent
SM 243
Kristy
Sent from my BlackBerry smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: svperegrinus <no_reply@...>
Sender: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Mon, 05 Nov 2012 13:29:25
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel] Amel Service on East Coast of US


Hello Bill,

We have some 230v audio equipment for which the manufacturer makes no version other than 230v and 110v. We would therefore like to have 230v available throughout the boat at all times (subject to flipping a switch or two, of course), without necessarily having to turn on the generator or plugging into shore power.

I will reach out to you to you via your e-mail to see what the "factory original" 230v inverter installation option looks like. I'd like to have it duplicated on our boat.

Thanks in advance,

Francisco + Odette
sv Peregrinus
SM2K #350 (Nov. 2001)
Miami



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Richard, Duncan, et al,

I am not sold on the 110v conversion. You should check the number of the places in the world that provide 110v 60htz. You will find that the US and a few other places are the only places that have this voltage, while the rest of the world is 230v 50htz. Rather than doing this 110v 60htz inverter, think seriously about adding a 24 to 230v 50htz inverter assuming that you do not already have an Amel-installed 230v 50htz inverter. Then when in St. Martin, Martinique and many other Caribbean islands buy all of the 230v appliances that you need. Also, you will find that almost all of your electronic gear will accept 110 - 240 volts AC 50-60 hertz...all you need to use these is a plug adapter.

If you follow the above suggestion, your Amel will be equipped for worldwide cruising. Also, remember, if worldwide cruising is not in your plans, it will likely be in the plans of a significant number of people who may want to buy your Amel when you are ready to sell her. Be careful not to do something now that you will regret then.

Amel wires the inverter in a separate circuit outside of the AC panel, with no connection between the inverter and the panel. The inverter does not go through the same breakers...there are a number of benefits with this...if you do not know, ask an experienced marine electrician. If you want to know more about the wiring scheme and location of the 230v receptacles done by Amel on a Super Maramu, write me at bill"at"svbebe.com.

I hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N. Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Richard03801 <richard03801@> wrote:

Hi Duncan we removed the entire Amel charging system and installed a 100 dolphin smart charger. You can get them from Budget the in Jolly Harbor or shipped in from the imported in Florida or from Defender in Ct. We then installer a 24 to 110 inverter hard wired to a breaker panel from it we ran 110 (600 volt wire) to ground fault plugs all over the boat using the standard Amel wireways. We can now plug in to most any dock in the world and charge the batteries. Then use your USA stuff at will. Your 220 stuff will generally work so long as there are no timers like the washers and dryer they tend to dislike 60 cycle. Give me a call if you have questions. The above system has work without issue on both my AMELs and a few I've worked on. Smart chargers are the way to go in today's world.

Regards SM 209 in Annapolis for sale

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 10, 2011, at 13:20, Duncan Hagemeyer <wdhagemeyer@> wrote:

Richard,

You suggested that I convert my electrical system to a broad range (?80-280?) charger. The boat is in the process of being checked by an electrical service company in Antigua and this would be a good time to address the issue. Can you suggest a manufacturer, etc.?

Duncan
On Nov 10, 2011, at 9:40 AM, Richard Piller wrote:

Hi Kent, Epic Yachting has also been in contact with Amel to provide service for the boats. They have a deep water marina in Gloucester, VA that is fully capable of Amel service. It is a very short run from Norfolk to Severn River Marine Service. There is also Amel service available at their docks in Annapolis and in Newport RI from May to November. They are a mast cap to keel stem to stern service firm.
Richard SM 209 in Annapolis For Sale

________________________________
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@>
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2011 8:11 PM
Subject: [Amel] Amel Service on East Coast of US


I was sad to hear of Ray's passing, he was a real peach of a guy. He worked on Kristy right after I bought her and sailed across the Gulf from Galveston to Key West and Ft. Lauderdale.

I had a lot of quality work done on KRISTY over the last few years at Deltaville Marina on the Chesapeake. Keith, the owner, said he'd worked on several Amels in the past and is enthralled with the way they are built and their systems are laid out. He contacted Amel to see about becoming an Amel service center but got no reply. We need somewhere like that where we can get Amel-specific help on the Eastern Seaboard. I'd like to start a campaign to ask Amel to find a good yard and get them trained to work on our boats. I'd recommend Deltaville Boatyard but any good yard would be better than having to go to Martinique or deal with folks who just don't get the Amel systems.

Any thoughts?
Kent
SM243
Kristy











------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Yacht insurance

scottstusek <sstusek@...>
 

I have learned from recent posts about the demise of Lemmas yacht insurance program. If anyone is looking to replace the coverage I might have an option through my carrier Pantaenius America, Ltd which offers worldwide navigational options written on U.S. A rated paper. You can go to our website to check us out and or contact me directly anytime at 443-569-7995 / sstusek@...


Re: [Amel] Amel Service on East Coast of US

svperegrinus <no_reply@...>
 

Hello Bill,

We have some 230v audio equipment for which the manufacturer makes no version other than 230v and 110v. We would therefore like to have 230v available throughout the boat at all times (subject to flipping a switch or two, of course), without necessarily having to turn on the generator or plugging into shore power.

I will reach out to you to you via your e-mail to see what the "factory original" 230v inverter installation option looks like. I'd like to have it duplicated on our boat.

Thanks in advance,

Francisco + Odette
sv Peregrinus
SM2K #350 (Nov. 2001)
Miami

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Richard, Duncan, et al,

I am not sold on the 110v conversion. You should check the number of the places in the world that provide 110v 60htz. You will find that the US and a few other places are the only places that have this voltage, while the rest of the world is 230v 50htz. Rather than doing this 110v 60htz inverter, think seriously about adding a 24 to 230v 50htz inverter assuming that you do not already have an Amel-installed 230v 50htz inverter. Then when in St. Martin, Martinique and many other Caribbean islands buy all of the 230v appliances that you need. Also, you will find that almost all of your electronic gear will accept 110 - 240 volts AC 50-60 hertz...all you need to use these is a plug adapter.

If you follow the above suggestion, your Amel will be equipped for worldwide cruising. Also, remember, if worldwide cruising is not in your plans, it will likely be in the plans of a significant number of people who may want to buy your Amel when you are ready to sell her. Be careful not to do something now that you will regret then.

Amel wires the inverter in a separate circuit outside of the AC panel, with no connection between the inverter and the panel. The inverter does not go through the same breakers...there are a number of benefits with this...if you do not know, ask an experienced marine electrician. If you want to know more about the wiring scheme and location of the 230v receptacles done by Amel on a Super Maramu, write me at bill"at"svbebe.com.

I hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently N. Cyprus

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Richard03801 <richard03801@> wrote:

Hi Duncan we removed the entire Amel charging system and installed a 100 dolphin smart charger. You can get them from Budget the in Jolly Harbor or shipped in from the imported in Florida or from Defender in Ct. We then installer a 24 to 110 inverter hard wired to a breaker panel from it we ran 110 (600 volt wire) to ground fault plugs all over the boat using the standard Amel wireways. We can now plug in to most any dock in the world and charge the batteries. Then use your USA stuff at will. Your 220 stuff will generally work so long as there are no timers like the washers and dryer they tend to dislike 60 cycle. Give me a call if you have questions. The above system has work without issue on both my AMELs and a few I've worked on. Smart chargers are the way to go in today's world.

Regards SM 209 in Annapolis for sale

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 10, 2011, at 13:20, Duncan Hagemeyer <wdhagemeyer@> wrote:

Richard,

You suggested that I convert my electrical system to a broad range (?80-280?) charger. The boat is in the process of being checked by an electrical service company in Antigua and this would be a good time to address the issue. Can you suggest a manufacturer, etc.?

Duncan
On Nov 10, 2011, at 9:40 AM, Richard Piller wrote:

Hi Kent, Epic Yachting has also been in contact with Amel to provide service for the boats. They have a deep water marina in Gloucester, VA that is fully capable of Amel service. It is a very short run from Norfolk to Severn River Marine Service. There is also Amel service available at their docks in Annapolis and in Newport RI from May to November. They are a mast cap to keel stem to stern service firm.
Richard SM 209 in Annapolis For Sale

________________________________
From: Kent Robertson <karkauai@>
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2011 8:11 PM
Subject: [Amel] Amel Service on East Coast of US


I was sad to hear of Ray's passing, he was a real peach of a guy. He worked on Kristy right after I bought her and sailed across the Gulf from Galveston to Key West and Ft. Lauderdale.

I had a lot of quality work done on KRISTY over the last few years at Deltaville Marina on the Chesapeake. Keith, the owner, said he'd worked on several Amels in the past and is enthralled with the way they are built and their systems are laid out. He contacted Amel to see about becoming an Amel service center but got no reply. We need somewhere like that where we can get Amel-specific help on the Eastern Seaboard. I'd like to start a campaign to ask Amel to find a good yard and get them trained to work on our boats. I'd recommend Deltaville Boatyard but any good yard would be better than having to go to Martinique or deal with folks who just don't get the Amel systems.

Any thoughts?
Kent
SM243
Kristy

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links



Re: Parasailor

Dave_Benjamin
 

John,

You are correct in that you could likely replace your main, mizzen, and genoa for less than the cost of a Parasailor. We replaced working sails on a late model Maramu for $8400 US a while back.

I don't see the rationale for a Parasailor on an Amel. The boats are usually set up with twins for downwind sailing which is far better than any spinnaker. I would go with a CLASS (cruisers light air sail solution) which is similar to what other sailmakers would call a cruising code zero. It's set from a foil-less furler and extremely easy to manage. It works through a wide range of wind angles. For situations where you are only sailing downwind for short periods of time during which you do not want to set the twins, the CLASS works well.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "jonathan681684" <jestonier@...> wrote:

I just got a quote from the French distributor, Voiles Jacana for a Parasailor. With a bag and Easysnuffer for my Santorin Ketch, they quote 125m2 for the area, and want Euros 7,200 inc VAT at 19.5%.

Seems like a lot, I could purchase a complete set of cruising sails for that in Turkey. Any one on the group have a Parasailor, and could tell me what they paid ?

Thanks

John Stonier
Santorin 143, Azimuth, Kas Turkey


Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking/No water going into tank

karkauai
 

I have a clear picture now of how to proceed, Gary. I'll let you all know what I find when I get back to the boat in a few weeks.
Thanks again for your excellent description in terms I can understand.
Kent
1999 SM243
Kristy
Brunswick, GA


Sent from my BlackBerry smartphone powered by Alltel

-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona <no_reply@...>
Sender: amelyachtowners@...
Date: Sun, 04 Nov 2012 15:19:04
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking/No water going into tank




Hi Kent:

It sounds like our two systems are quite different. My system doesn't even have a manual position on the main on/off switch. From your description, the product water from the membranes routes to the flow meter tube, then to the test faucet and then to the solenoid diverter valve.

It sounds to me like the salinity sensor on your system doesn't work any more properly than it does on all the rest of the Dessalator systems, prior to their making the latest control board. The newest board, by all reports works correctly and actually measures salinity.

As for the relays, mine are 12 volt DC control coils: Scharack TN313012 - Rated: 7 Amp at 30 VDC. I suspect that yours are the same. It is common for relays to have a control coil rated for 12 volts, but for the voltage of the contacts (i.e. the voltage they are controlling) to be controlling 24 volts or more. The key question for manually controlling this system is what is the voltage rating of the solenoid valve. I believe that as you indicated it is a 24 volt solenoid.

When you measure the voltage that the solenoid is seeing, put one test lead on the supply voltage side of the solenoid and one lead on a known good ground. Don't just measure across the two leads, otherwise you are seeing the voltage drop across the solenoid coil.

Next, If the solenoid is depicted/labeled as 24 VDC then I would try applying 24 volts to its two wires and see if it will actuate. To do this,
1. totally disconnect the two solenoid wires from the control board,
2. find a spot where you can get 24 VDC
3. using jumper wires, wire 24 volts to one lead of the solenoid and wire the other lead to a known good ships ground (this is not polarity specific so don't worry about + & - here)
4. activate your water maker and test the solenoid independently by alternately applying 24 volts to the solenoid and opening that circuit to see if your solenoid actuates and diverts product water or not. If it doesn't work properly doing this then the solenoid is either electrically defective or mechanically defective and if tapping on it etc doesn't work then it probably will need to be replaced. Dessalator should be able to provide a replacement solenoid or you can search the web for one and probably find a direct or suitable substitute replacement for a lot cheaper.

I don't know if the button on the solenoid is electrically or mechanically actuating the solenoid. You might be able to tell by the feel of the button and the sound of the solenoid as you push that button.

I think what Richard was indicating, was just wiring manual switches (about $2.00 US each) in the control circuit so that you manually actuate this solenoid, HP pump etc. I don't think he was implying completely replacing the water maker. The component parts of the Dessalator system are sound, it is just their control circuit board that was bogus. You might contact Dessalator and see if their new control board would work with your system.

In actuality, all the control board does is act like three switches [in your case or four in my case where one of the switches controls power to the BP low pressure pump].

On yours,
It turns on power to the control board (switch 1)
It controls power to the HP pump (switch 2) via a ganged relay
It controls power to the solenoid of the diverter valve (switch 3)

You can totally bypass the control board with just two manual $ 2.00 switches, one each to control power 24 volts to the ganged relay for the HP pump, and one to control 24 volt power to the solenoid diverter valve. The LED lamps won't display correctly if you do this but they don't display correctly now. It shouldn't take a competent electrician with the schematics I have provided here more than about two to three hours to totally wire the system for manual operation including wiring in a proper salinity sensor with a Sonalert to warn of a bad water situation or a high pressure situation.

All the fundamental parts of your system sound like they are working and you just need either a new control board or better yet a re-vamped manual system. I can provide a schematic for a re-vamped manual system if that is the direction you decide to go.

I hope I have helped.

Gary

s/v Liahona




--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Kent" <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi again, Gary, et al.
I'm on the boat again and found that the control panel is very different from what you have, Gary. Here's what I've done:

I turned the unit on Manual and it came on without a blinking light. After 2 minutes the green "good water" light came on. I checked the product line going to the tank and no water was flowing. The water coming from the test faucet at the control panel tested good with my hand held TDS monitor. I pushed the over ride button on the side of the diverter solenoid and water flowed to the tank. When I turned the unit on Automatic, the amber light blinked continuously and no water flowed into the tank unless I pushed the over ride button on the solenoid. The green light didn't come on after several minutes. I found a new salinity sensor (came with the boat, imagine that) and replaced the old one which looked OK...no difference. I repeated this test several times and the same thing happened each time...no blinking amber light and green light on after 2 min. when on Manual...blinking amber light for several minutes and no green light when on Automatic.

I looked at the computer control board and the two black ?relays? say 12v, but the solenoid says 24v. The power at the solenoid is 8-10v. Should I be getting 24v at the solenoid? Seems like it should be at least 12v?
My unit has no feed pump, it is fed by gravity. Where does the unit read "low pressure"? When on Automatic and I turn the pressure knob the pressure goes up as it should to 60 bar on the pressure meter and flow in the glass tube with float goes to 60 l/m as it should.

Sorry for the long explanation of what is happening. Do you have any suggestions as to what might be wrong or what I should do next?

Thanks again for your patience and help.
Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy 1999 Amel SuperMaramu


Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking/No water going into tank

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Kent you have the same unit We do. Basically you by pass the electronic package install a two way valve over board and tank Turn on the system as you do now with a manual switch turn up the pressure test the water after 2 or 3 min when it is less than 400p pm turn the valve to tank. And you are making water.
When we did the conversion we also replaced the two membrane filters mounts on the bulk head with one, one meter mounted on the shelf.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 4, 2012, at 10:19, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:



Hi Kent:

It sounds like our two systems are quite different. My system doesn't even have a manual position on the main on/off switch. From your description, the product water from the membranes routes to the flow meter tube, then to the test faucet and then to the solenoid diverter valve.

It sounds to me like the salinity sensor on your system doesn't work any more properly than it does on all the rest of the Dessalator systems, prior to their making the latest control board. The newest board, by all reports works correctly and actually measures salinity.

As for the relays, mine are 12 volt DC control coils: Scharack TN313012 - Rated: 7 Amp at 30 VDC. I suspect that yours are the same. It is common for relays to have a control coil rated for 12 volts, but for the voltage of the contacts (i.e. the voltage they are controlling) to be controlling 24 volts or more. The key question for manually controlling this system is what is the voltage rating of the solenoid valve. I believe that as you indicated it is a 24 volt solenoid.

When you measure the voltage that the solenoid is seeing, put one test lead on the supply voltage side of the solenoid and one lead on a known good ground. Don't just measure across the two leads, otherwise you are seeing the voltage drop across the solenoid coil.

Next, If the solenoid is depicted/labeled as 24 VDC then I would try applying 24 volts to its two wires and see if it will actuate. To do this,
1. totally disconnect the two solenoid wires from the control board,
2. find a spot where you can get 24 VDC
3. using jumper wires, wire 24 volts to one lead of the solenoid and wire the other lead to a known good ships ground (this is not polarity specific so don't worry about + & - here)
4. activate your water maker and test the solenoid independently by alternately applying 24 volts to the solenoid and opening that circuit to see if your solenoid actuates and diverts product water or not. If it doesn't work properly doing this then the solenoid is either electrically defective or mechanically defective and if tapping on it etc doesn't work then it probably will need to be replaced. Dessalator should be able to provide a replacement solenoid or you can search the web for one and probably find a direct or suitable substitute replacement for a lot cheaper.

I don't know if the button on the solenoid is electrically or mechanically actuating the solenoid. You might be able to tell by the feel of the button and the sound of the solenoid as you push that button.

I think what Richard was indicating, was just wiring manual switches (about $2.00 US each) in the control circuit so that you manually actuate this solenoid, HP pump etc. I don't think he was implying completely replacing the water maker. The component parts of the Dessalator system are sound, it is just their control circuit board that was bogus. You might contact Dessalator and see if their new control board would work with your system.

In actuality, all the control board does is act like three switches [in your case or four in my case where one of the switches controls power to the BP low pressure pump].

On yours,
It turns on power to the control board (switch 1)
It controls power to the HP pump (switch 2) via a ganged relay
It controls power to the solenoid of the diverter valve (switch 3)

You can totally bypass the control board with just two manual $ 2.00 switches, one each to control power 24 volts to the ganged relay for the HP pump, and one to control 24 volt power to the solenoid diverter valve. The LED lamps won't display correctly if you do this but they don't display correctly now. It shouldn't take a competent electrician with the schematics I have provided here more than about two to three hours to totally wire the system for manual operation including wiring in a proper salinity sensor with a Sonalert to warn of a bad water situation or a high pressure situation.

All the fundamental parts of your system sound like they are working and you just need either a new control board or better yet a re-vamped manual system. I can provide a schematic for a re-vamped manual system if that is the direction you decide to go.

I hope I have helped.

Gary

s/v Liahona

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Kent" <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi again, Gary, et al.
I'm on the boat again and found that the control panel is very different from what you have, Gary. Here's what I've done:

I turned the unit on Manual and it came on without a blinking light. After 2 minutes the green "good water" light came on. I checked the product line going to the tank and no water was flowing. The water coming from the test faucet at the control panel tested good with my hand held TDS monitor. I pushed the over ride button on the side of the diverter solenoid and water flowed to the tank. When I turned the unit on Automatic, the amber light blinked continuously and no water flowed into the tank unless I pushed the over ride button on the solenoid. The green light didn't come on after several minutes. I found a new salinity sensor (came with the boat, imagine that) and replaced the old one which looked OK...no difference. I repeated this test several times and the same thing happened each time...no blinking amber light and green light on after 2 min. when on Manual...blinking amber light for several minutes and no green light when on Automatic.

I looked at the computer control board and the two black ?relays? say 12v, but the solenoid says 24v. The power at the solenoid is 8-10v. Should I be getting 24v at the solenoid? Seems like it should be at least 12v?
My unit has no feed pump, it is fed by gravity. Where does the unit read "low pressure"? When on Automatic and I turn the pressure knob the pressure goes up as it should to 60 bar on the pressure meter and flow in the glass tube with float goes to 60 l/m as it should.

Sorry for the long explanation of what is happening. Do you have any suggestions as to what might be wrong or what I should do next?

Thanks again for your patience and help.
Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy 1999 Amel SuperMaramu


[Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking/No water going into tank

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Kent:

It sounds like our two systems are quite different. My system doesn't even have a manual position on the main on/off switch. From your description, the product water from the membranes routes to the flow meter tube, then to the test faucet and then to the solenoid diverter valve.

It sounds to me like the salinity sensor on your system doesn't work any more properly than it does on all the rest of the Dessalator systems, prior to their making the latest control board. The newest board, by all reports works correctly and actually measures salinity.

As for the relays, mine are 12 volt DC control coils: Scharack TN313012 - Rated: 7 Amp at 30 VDC. I suspect that yours are the same. It is common for relays to have a control coil rated for 12 volts, but for the voltage of the contacts (i.e. the voltage they are controlling) to be controlling 24 volts or more. The key question for manually controlling this system is what is the voltage rating of the solenoid valve. I believe that as you indicated it is a 24 volt solenoid.

When you measure the voltage that the solenoid is seeing, put one test lead on the supply voltage side of the solenoid and one lead on a known good ground. Don't just measure across the two leads, otherwise you are seeing the voltage drop across the solenoid coil.

Next, If the solenoid is depicted/labeled as 24 VDC then I would try applying 24 volts to its two wires and see if it will actuate. To do this,
1. totally disconnect the two solenoid wires from the control board,
2. find a spot where you can get 24 VDC
3. using jumper wires, wire 24 volts to one lead of the solenoid and wire the other lead to a known good ships ground (this is not polarity specific so don't worry about + & - here)
4. activate your water maker and test the solenoid independently by alternately applying 24 volts to the solenoid and opening that circuit to see if your solenoid actuates and diverts product water or not. If it doesn't work properly doing this then the solenoid is either electrically defective or mechanically defective and if tapping on it etc doesn't work then it probably will need to be replaced. Dessalator should be able to provide a replacement solenoid or you can search the web for one and probably find a direct or suitable substitute replacement for a lot cheaper.

I don't know if the button on the solenoid is electrically or mechanically actuating the solenoid. You might be able to tell by the feel of the button and the sound of the solenoid as you push that button.

I think what Richard was indicating, was just wiring manual switches (about $2.00 US each) in the control circuit so that you manually actuate this solenoid, HP pump etc. I don't think he was implying completely replacing the water maker. The component parts of the Dessalator system are sound, it is just their control circuit board that was bogus. You might contact Dessalator and see if their new control board would work with your system.

In actuality, all the control board does is act like three switches [in your case or four in my case where one of the switches controls power to the BP low pressure pump].

On yours,
It turns on power to the control board (switch 1)
It controls power to the HP pump (switch 2) via a ganged relay
It controls power to the solenoid of the diverter valve (switch 3)

You can totally bypass the control board with just two manual $ 2.00 switches, one each to control power 24 volts to the ganged relay for the HP pump, and one to control 24 volt power to the solenoid diverter valve. The LED lamps won't display correctly if you do this but they don't display correctly now. It shouldn't take a competent electrician with the schematics I have provided here more than about two to three hours to totally wire the system for manual operation including wiring in a proper salinity sensor with a Sonalert to warn of a bad water situation or a high pressure situation.

All the fundamental parts of your system sound like they are working and you just need either a new control board or better yet a re-vamped manual system. I can provide a schematic for a re-vamped manual system if that is the direction you decide to go.

I hope I have helped.

Gary

s/v Liahona

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Kent" <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi again, Gary, et al.
I'm on the boat again and found that the control panel is very different from what you have, Gary. Here's what I've done:

I turned the unit on Manual and it came on without a blinking light. After 2 minutes the green "good water" light came on. I checked the product line going to the tank and no water was flowing. The water coming from the test faucet at the control panel tested good with my hand held TDS monitor. I pushed the over ride button on the side of the diverter solenoid and water flowed to the tank. When I turned the unit on Automatic, the amber light blinked continuously and no water flowed into the tank unless I pushed the over ride button on the solenoid. The green light didn't come on after several minutes. I found a new salinity sensor (came with the boat, imagine that) and replaced the old one which looked OK...no difference. I repeated this test several times and the same thing happened each time...no blinking amber light and green light on after 2 min. when on Manual...blinking amber light for several minutes and no green light when on Automatic.

I looked at the computer control board and the two black ?relays? say 12v, but the solenoid says 24v. The power at the solenoid is 8-10v. Should I be getting 24v at the solenoid? Seems like it should be at least 12v?
My unit has no feed pump, it is fed by gravity. Where does the unit read "low pressure"? When on Automatic and I turn the pressure knob the pressure goes up as it should to 60 bar on the pressure meter and flow in the glass tube with float goes to 60 l/m as it should.

Sorry for the long explanation of what is happening. Do you have any suggestions as to what might be wrong or what I should do next?

Thanks again for your patience and help.
Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy 1999 Amel SuperMaramu


Re: [Amel] Parasailor

nezih nezih
 

Hello John 
I got  price from US and Turkish distributor for my maramu
I copied down below.I friend of me paid 5000€  for his amel maramu.
Good luck
Nezih

Hello Nezih
 
Thank you for getting back to me. Regarding the price, we all quote from the same price list but as it is in Euros it can fluctuate due to currency differences when converted to US Dollars.
 
You can pay in Euros directly to our head office in Germany if you like and the price (which should be the same as you have already received) is €4,970. Shipping to St. Marten is expensive – typically €500+.
 
What I can do for you is guarantee that your freight cost will be €300 (and I will pay the additional cost) or you can pay in US$ to our office in Florida – your choice J
 
I hope that works for you, if it does please choose a design color and I will get the order started. As this is the main boat show season, orders are coming into the factory every day and the delivery time has now increased to seven/eight weeks.

Same factory Turkish distributor



www.istec.ag
www.parasailor.com
Marmaris’teki ortaklar fiyat çalışmasını yaptılar. Amel Maramu 46’

Long mast ise:4970.-Euro Ex-Works Almanya
İncluding  snuffer

Ben broşür ve tanıtım cd’sini hazırladım. En azından senin arşivinde kalır.
Ender Bey’le görüştüm, ilgine çok teşekkür ederim.
Sevgiler
Best Regards / İyi Çalışmalar,
 
Fatih Özden
 
 




________________________________
From: jonathan681684 <jestonier@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Friday, November 2, 2012 6:02 PM
Subject: [Amel] Parasailor


 
I just got a quote from the French distributor, Voiles Jacana for a Parasailor. With a bag and Easysnuffer for my Santorin Ketch, they quote 125m2 for the area, and want Euros 7,200 inc VAT at 19.5%.

Seems like a lot, I could purchase a complete set of cruising sails for that in Turkey. Any one on the group have a Parasailor, and could tell me what they paid ?

Thanks

John Stonier
Santorin 143, Azimuth, Kas Turkey




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Parasailor

jonathan681684
 

I just got a quote from the French distributor, Voiles Jacana for a Parasailor. With a bag and Easysnuffer for my Santorin Ketch, they quote 125m2 for the area, and want Euros 7,200 inc VAT at 19.5%.

Seems like a lot, I could purchase a complete set of cruising sails for that in Turkey. Any one on the group have a Parasailor, and could tell me what they paid ?

Thanks

John Stonier
Santorin 143, Azimuth, Kas Turkey


Incorrect information about Super Maramu Genoa Sheet size

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

There was a file in the Files >> Miscellaneous section regarding Super Maramu running rigging sizes. This file was in French Only. I replaced it with Super Maramu Running Rigging Measurements French & English.xls.

After replacing it, I noticed that the Genoa Sheet size was shown at 16mm, but the Genoa Sheet size is actually 18mm on all of the Super Maramus I have checked. I placed a comment on the file: "SM Running Rigging Measurements revised 1/11/12."

I do not know the original source of this file and I am not sure if there are any other errors.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye


Re: [Amel] SM Headsail furler maintainance

Andy Croney
 

Hi Dave,

thanks for your feedback.

We have some boot fittings on the main mast ( will try to post an image) but all poles are missing..............

thanks again for your info

Andy

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@...> wrote:

Andy,

Do you have any of the poles? There were 5 originally.
2 jockey struts, each connecting to the mast and extending just beyond the stainless fitting between the shrouds

2 standard length (J) spinnaker poles that attach to the jockey struts

Reaching strut

Do you have the piece spanning the shrouds that the strut goes through?

On our Maramu, the parts are Barbarossa if I'm not mistaken. Barbarossa was acquired by Harken.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Andy" <allezaubon@> wrote:

Hi Graham,

apologies as this is off topic, but trust that I can touch base with you via the Amel group.

Pleased to hear things are moving ahead with your headsail furler and rigging questions.

It is good to know that there is another Amel in Hong Kong at present.

We brought our Maramu to Hong Kong in May this year.

Unfortunately the Headsail whisker poles on our Maramu are missing.

We would like to make 2 new ones however don't have any templates for the end sections.

I have been in touch with Amel France who have told me the best bet would be take the information from another Amel in the Region.

If it is not too much trouble for you, it would terrific if I could take a look at the poles on your boat at a mutually convenient time.

Apologies for being so forthright but trusting for your indulgence.

Hope to make your acquaintance in the near future before you depart for Philippines.

Thanks in advance for your time

Kindest regards

Andy

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Graham" <crwggb@> wrote:

Hi Eric,

Thanks alot for the info. I took the main metal cover that is roped to the pulpit off today and all looked fine in there. Any chance you could send pics of your grease nipple locations. I note that at the bottom of the foil there are several pop rivets, but also 3 screws that are moved using allen keys. These wouldnt by any chance be greasing pionts?

Graham
SM140 Sula
Hong Kong

--- In amelyachtowners@..., kimberlite@ wrote:

Hi,I drilled and taped two holes in the furler on high and one low using a 5 mm tap..I use the autoprop grease adapter togrease the furler and then screw in 2 nylon bolts. I also did this to the furling motor and outhaul.Ericsm 376 Kimberliet----- Original Message -----From: Graham Date: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 6:22 amSubject: [Amel] SM Headsail furler maintainanceTo: amelyachtowners@...> Can anyone tell me what maintainance one should be doing to the > headsail furler motor/gear box assembly on the SM. I have had my > boat for 7 years now this must be one of the very few bits I > haven't taken to pieces yet!> > Graham Boyd > SM 140 SULA> >




Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking/No water going into tank

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

We have use the basic parts for the last six years without a problem. It works and we are always sure of what and how much is going in the tank. That is all go clean water.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 1, 2012, at 22:20, Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Thanks, Richard. This unit has performed flawlessly for the 5 years I've owned Kristy. I hate to start over again, but if the fix is really expensive or doesn't last I'll take your advice and replace the whole thing.
Kent

________________________________
From: Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2012 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking/No water going into tank



Kent we converted to manual while in St Martin working with Necol they will get rid of the old poorly done package and convert if to great working manual one.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 1, 2012, at 20:38, "Kent" <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi again, Gary, et al.
I'm on the boat again and found that the control panel is very different from what you have, Gary. Here's what I've done:

I turned the unit on Manual and it came on without a blinking light. After 2 minutes the green "good water" light came on. I checked the product line going to the tank and no water was flowing. The water coming from the test faucet at the control panel tested good with my hand held TDS monitor. I pushed the over ride button on the side of the diverter solenoid and water flowed to the tank. When I turned the unit on Automatic, the amber light blinked continuously and no water flowed into the tank unless I pushed the over ride button on the solenoid. The green light didn't come on after several minutes. I found a new salinity sensor (came with the boat, imagine that) and replaced the old one which looked OK...no difference. I repeated this test several times and the same thing happened each time...no blinking amber light and green light on after 2 min. when on Manual...blinking amber light for several minutes and no green light when on Automatic.

I looked at the computer control board and the two black ?relays? say 12v, but the solenoid says 24v. The power at the solenoid is 8-10v. Should I be getting 24v at the solenoid? Seems like it should be at least 12v?
My unit has no feed pump, it is fed by gravity. Where does the unit read "low pressure"? When on Automatic and I turn the pressure knob the pressure goes up as it should to 60 bar on the pressure meter and flow in the glass tube with float goes to 60 l/m as it should.

Sorry for the long explanation of what is happening. Do you have any suggestions as to what might be wrong or what I should do next?

Thanks again for your patience and help.
Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy 1999 Amel SuperMaramu

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi, Gary,
Thanks for your prompt reply. I won't be back to the boat for a couple more days, but this is what I remember. I'll try what you suggest and what Martin of Dessalator Spain says to do (see below).
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY

See my answers to your questions below underlined





________________________________
From: amelliahona <no_reply@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2012 10:42 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking



Hi Kent:

Bummer, to have made water for 3 hours only to have it go overboard! Or at least that sounds like where it went. My boat doesn't have a test facet on the control panel. So a question for you, Does water come out of the test faucet only when product water is being made as witnessed by the flow gauge/tube? I am trying to get a sense of how your system is plumbed. Is the diverter solenoid downstream of the test faucet or upstream of it?

Kent: Water comes out whether the green light (good water) or amber light (bad water) is on, so I guess the diverter is after the test faucet. The valve in the faucet leaks, so I had to cap it off. I'm going to have to buy a new one from Dessalator since I've been unable to find one that fits the threads elsewhere. In the meantime I can check water quality by taking the cap off. It will be messy, but I think I can do it without getting water everywhere.

If your control circuit board is similar to mine, there are three control relays:

Relay 1. Controls the BP pump (low pressure feed pump) this is "ganged" to control a larger relay that actually controls the power to the pump. Sounds like it is working ok.

Kent: I don't have a feed pump, it's gravity fed.

Relay 2. Controls the HP pump (high pressure pump), this also is ganged to control the larger relay that controls the feed power to the pump. Sounds like it is working ok.

Relay 3. Controls the bypass solenoid. When the solenoid is activated product water (fresh water produced) is diverted to the tanks. On my system the default mode is bypass (i.e. the product water goes overboard). The solenoid must be electrically actuated to divert the product water to the tank. So the question is: is the solenoid itself not working or is the control circuit that actuates the solenoid not working, or is the water being lost somewhere else?

Kent: There's no evidence of water anywhere else. That amount of water should show up under the galley sink, the sump, or in the bilge in the salon. I just heard from Martin at Dessalator Spain. He said there's a bypass button on the 3-way valve that diverts water to the tank. He says that valve often fails from drying out and that I can over ride it by pushing the button and turning it a bit to keep it open. That would keep the valve open all the time, so I'd have to make sure water quality is good before over riding it. He says sometimes it will start working correctly after doing the over ride procedure.

The solenoid is merely a 24 Volt DC solenoid (on my system). You can test it by applying 24 VDC to its two wires. On my system they are the orange colored wires that go to pins 10 and 11 of plug 1 on the circuit board. The fuse that protects Relay 3 must be good because it is the same fuse that protects relay 1 and 2.

I found that my system takes anywhere from 2-5 minutes to produce good water (depending on how long it has been idle). The timer on my original circuit board sent product water to the tank long before good quality water was produced, so I wired a manual switch on the solenoid circuit. When my sensor shows EC (electrical conductivity) less than 550 microSeimens I throw the switch to divert product water to the tanks. If the alarm on the EC sensor goes off, indicating EC of over 550 mS, it sounds a 110 Decibel Sonalert and I run to the galley and throw the manual switch to off.
Kent: I still haven't done anything about the "sham" water quality sensor. Was going to get started on that when these problems started. I've been relying on testing the water coming from the test faucet to make sure the water I'm putting in the tank is good. Once I get this straightened out I'll make the changes you suggest.


If you supply 24 VDC to the solenoid you should here it click (sometimes hard to do with the genset and HP pump running).

You can test the solenoid in peace an quite with the genset off by:

1. turning on the rotary control switch (this supplies 24 VDC to the control board)
2. using a multimeter check to see if you have 24 VDC on pin 10 of plug 1.
3. if you have 24 VDC on that pin, then using a piece of wire, provide a ground to pin 11 of plug 1 by shorting between pin 11 and the inboard base of fuse 3 (inboard referring to the circuit board so the end towards the center of the circuit board) . You should hear the solenoid click. The solenoid is on top of the flow gauge/tube. If you can confirm the solenoid actuating, then there may be a control relay (3) issue, a stuck solenoid or some other control issue. If that is the case you can make a work around by wiring a manual control switch like I have done. If the solenoid is stuck, gently tapping it may break it loose.

The parts location picture is in the Photos section under Amel SM Dessalator and the schematics are in the Files section.

I hope this helps. If I can be of any further assistance please post or you can give me a call at 801-543-5801.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM 335 s/v Liahona
Un-insured (due to Lemma Insurance's bankruptcy) and on the hard in Jolly Harbor, Antigua
Kent: Have you made contact with the multiple recommended insurers yet? I'd be pretty nervous about not being insured. Thanks again for all your help, Gary. Wish I could watch you at work...maybe it wouldn't seem so complicated. All your posts and photos are very helpful in identifying the parts and understanding how stuff works. I'm still a bit timid when it comes to getting my hands on electrical gear, but once I do it things seem fairly simple most of the time.



--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@> wrote:

Hello again, everyone,
I finally got back to KRISTY last weekend. I sailed her out into clean water and turned the 60 l/hr Dessalator water maker on. Martin at the Spain office of Desallator said that the blinking light should just be due to low pressure. He suggested that I turn it on and let it run for a few minutes...sure enough, after a couple of minutes of turning the pressure knob on the panel all the way up to get it into the green zone, the blinking/clicking stopped and the "float" on the panel above the sink showed that it was producing water. The light turned green (I know, Gary, that doesn't mean it's producing good water. I checked the water at the test faucet on the panel, and it was OK.) So I let it run for 3 hours, then shut it off as we approached the dirty water. To my dismay, when I checked the tank level after returning to the dock, I hadn't added any water to the tank. I think it had to be producing water since the float level was showing 60
l/hr, so I guess it was just pumping it overboard. The green light was on the whole time. Does anyone know how I can test the valve that switches output to the tank? Any other ideas about what might be wrong and how to troubleshoot?
Thanks in advance, Gary. I figure you know more about the Dessalator units than anyone else on the forum.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking/No water going into tank

karkauai
 

Thanks, Richard.  This unit has performed flawlessly for the 5 years I've owned Kristy.  I hate to start over again, but if the fix is really expensive or doesn't last I'll take your advice and replace the whole thing.
Kent




________________________________
From: Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
To: "amelyachtowners@..." <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Thursday, November 1, 2012 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking/No water going into tank


 
Kent we converted to manual while in St Martin working with Necol they will get rid of the old poorly done package and convert if to great working manual one.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 1, 2012, at 20:38, "Kent" <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi again, Gary, et al.
I'm on the boat again and found that the control panel is very different from what you have, Gary. Here's what I've done:

I turned the unit on Manual and it came on without a blinking light. After 2 minutes the green "good water" light came on. I checked the product line going to the tank and no water was flowing. The water coming from the test faucet at the control panel tested good with my hand held TDS monitor. I pushed the over ride button on the side of the diverter solenoid and water flowed to the tank. When I turned the unit on Automatic, the amber light blinked continuously and no water flowed into the tank unless I pushed the over ride button on the solenoid. The green light didn't come on after several minutes. I found a new salinity sensor (came with the boat, imagine that) and replaced the old one which looked OK...no difference. I repeated this test several times and the same thing happened each time...no blinking amber light and green light on after 2 min. when on Manual...blinking amber light for several minutes and no green light when on Automatic.

I looked at the computer control board and the two black ?relays? say 12v, but the solenoid says 24v. The power at the solenoid is 8-10v. Should I be getting 24v at the solenoid? Seems like it should be at least 12v?
My unit has no feed pump, it is fed by gravity. Where does the unit read "low pressure"? When on Automatic and I turn the pressure knob the pressure goes up as it should to 60 bar on the pressure meter and flow in the glass tube with float goes to 60 l/m as it should.

Sorry for the long explanation of what is happening. Do you have any suggestions as to what might be wrong or what I should do next?

Thanks again for your patience and help.
Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy 1999 Amel SuperMaramu

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi, Gary,
Thanks for your prompt reply. I won't be back to the boat for a couple more days, but this is what I remember. I'll try what you suggest and what Martin of Dessalator Spain says to do (see below).
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY

See my answers to your questions below underlined





________________________________
From: amelliahona <no_reply@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2012 10:42 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking



Hi Kent:

Bummer, to have made water for 3 hours only to have it go overboard! Or at least that sounds like where it went. My boat doesn't have a test facet on the control panel. So a question for you, Does water come out of the test faucet only when product water is being made as witnessed by the flow gauge/tube? I am trying to get a sense of how your system is plumbed. Is the diverter solenoid downstream of the test faucet or upstream of it?

Kent: Water comes out whether the green light (good water) or amber light (bad water) is on, so I guess the diverter is after the test faucet. The valve in the faucet leaks, so I had to cap it off. I'm going to have to buy a new one from Dessalator since I've been unable to find one that fits the threads elsewhere. In the meantime I can check water quality by taking the cap off. It will be messy, but I think I can do it without getting water everywhere.

If your control circuit board is similar to mine, there are three control relays:

Relay 1. Controls the BP pump (low pressure feed pump) this is "ganged" to control a larger relay that actually controls the power to the pump. Sounds like it is working ok.

Kent: I don't have a feed pump, it's gravity fed.

Relay 2. Controls the HP pump (high pressure pump), this also is ganged to control the larger relay that controls the feed power to the pump. Sounds like it is working ok.

Relay 3. Controls the bypass solenoid. When the solenoid is activated product water (fresh water produced) is diverted to the tanks. On my system the default mode is bypass (i.e. the product water goes overboard). The solenoid must be electrically actuated to divert the product water to the tank. So the question is: is the solenoid itself not working or is the control circuit that actuates the solenoid not working, or is the water being lost somewhere else?

Kent: There's no evidence of water anywhere else. That amount of water should show up under the galley sink, the sump, or in the bilge in the salon. I just heard from Martin at Dessalator Spain. He said there's a bypass button on the 3-way valve that diverts water to the tank. He says that valve often fails from drying out and that I can over ride it by pushing the button and turning it a bit to keep it open. That would keep the valve open all the time, so I'd have to make sure water quality is good before over riding it. He says sometimes it will start working correctly after doing the over ride procedure.

The solenoid is merely a 24 Volt DC solenoid (on my system). You can test it by applying 24 VDC to its two wires. On my system they are the orange colored wires that go to pins 10 and 11 of plug 1 on the circuit board. The fuse that protects Relay 3 must be good because it is the same fuse that protects relay 1 and 2.

I found that my system takes anywhere from 2-5 minutes to produce good water (depending on how long it has been idle). The timer on my original circuit board sent product water to the tank long before good quality water was produced, so I wired a manual switch on the solenoid circuit. When my sensor shows EC (electrical conductivity) less than 550 microSeimens I throw the switch to divert product water to the tanks. If the alarm on the EC sensor goes off, indicating EC of over 550 mS, it sounds a 110 Decibel Sonalert and I run to the galley and throw the manual switch to off.
Kent: I still haven't done anything about the "sham" water quality sensor. Was going to get started on that when these problems started. I've been relying on testing the water coming from the test faucet to make sure the water I'm putting in the tank is good. Once I get this straightened out I'll make the changes you suggest.


If you supply 24 VDC to the solenoid you should here it click (sometimes hard to do with the genset and HP pump running).

You can test the solenoid in peace an quite with the genset off by:

1. turning on the rotary control switch (this supplies 24 VDC to the control board)
2. using a multimeter check to see if you have 24 VDC on pin 10 of plug 1.
3. if you have 24 VDC on that pin, then using a piece of wire, provide a ground to pin 11 of plug 1 by shorting between pin 11 and the inboard base of fuse 3 (inboard referring to the circuit board so the end towards the center of the circuit board) . You should hear the solenoid click. The solenoid is on top of the flow gauge/tube. If you can confirm the solenoid actuating, then there may be a control relay (3) issue, a stuck solenoid or some other control issue. If that is the case you can make a work around by wiring a manual control switch like I have done. If the solenoid is stuck, gently tapping it may break it loose.

The parts location picture is in the Photos section under Amel SM Dessalator and the schematics are in the Files section.

I hope this helps. If I can be of any further assistance please post or you can give me a call at 801-543-5801.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM 335 s/v Liahona
Un-insured (due to Lemma Insurance's bankruptcy) and on the hard in Jolly Harbor, Antigua
Kent: Have you made contact with the multiple recommended insurers yet? I'd be pretty nervous about not being insured. Thanks again for all your help, Gary. Wish I could watch you at work...maybe it wouldn't seem so complicated. All your posts and photos are very helpful in identifying the parts and understanding how stuff works. I'm still a bit timid when it comes to getting my hands on electrical gear, but once I do it things seem fairly simple most of the time.



--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@> wrote:

Hello again, everyone,
I finally got back to KRISTY last weekend. I sailed her out into clean water and turned the 60 l/hr Dessalator water maker on. Martin at the Spain office of Desallator said that the blinking light should just be due to low pressure. He suggested that I turn it on and let it run for a few minutes...sure enough, after a couple of minutes of turning the pressure knob on the panel all the way up to get it into the green zone, the blinking/clicking stopped and the "float" on the panel above the sink showed that it was producing water. The light turned green (I know, Gary, that doesn't mean it's producing good water. I checked the water at the test faucet on the panel, and it was OK.) So I let it run for 3 hours, then shut it off as we approached the dirty water. To my dismay, when I checked the tank level after returning to the dock, I hadn't added any water to the tank. I think it had to be producing water since the float level was showing 60
l/hr, so I guess it was just pumping it overboard. The green light was on the whole time. Does anyone know how I can test the valve that switches output to the tank? Any other ideas about what might be wrong and how to troubleshoot?
Thanks in advance, Gary. I figure you know more about the Dessalator units than anyone else on the forum.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking/No water going into tank

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Kent we converted to manual while in St Martin working with Necol they will get rid of the old poorly done package and convert if to great working manual one.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 1, 2012, at 20:38, "Kent" <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi again, Gary, et al.
I'm on the boat again and found that the control panel is very different from what you have, Gary. Here's what I've done:

I turned the unit on Manual and it came on without a blinking light. After 2 minutes the green "good water" light came on. I checked the product line going to the tank and no water was flowing. The water coming from the test faucet at the control panel tested good with my hand held TDS monitor. I pushed the over ride button on the side of the diverter solenoid and water flowed to the tank. When I turned the unit on Automatic, the amber light blinked continuously and no water flowed into the tank unless I pushed the over ride button on the solenoid. The green light didn't come on after several minutes. I found a new salinity sensor (came with the boat, imagine that) and replaced the old one which looked OK...no difference. I repeated this test several times and the same thing happened each time...no blinking amber light and green light on after 2 min. when on Manual...blinking amber light for several minutes and no green light when on Automatic.

I looked at the computer control board and the two black ?relays? say 12v, but the solenoid says 24v. The power at the solenoid is 8-10v. Should I be getting 24v at the solenoid? Seems like it should be at least 12v?
My unit has no feed pump, it is fed by gravity. Where does the unit read "low pressure"? When on Automatic and I turn the pressure knob the pressure goes up as it should to 60 bar on the pressure meter and flow in the glass tube with float goes to 60 l/m as it should.

Sorry for the long explanation of what is happening. Do you have any suggestions as to what might be wrong or what I should do next?

Thanks again for your patience and help.
Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy 1999 Amel SuperMaramu

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi, Gary,
Thanks for your prompt reply. I won't be back to the boat for a couple more days, but this is what I remember. I'll try what you suggest and what Martin of Dessalator Spain says to do (see below).
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY

See my answers to your questions below underlined





________________________________
From: amelliahona <no_reply@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2012 10:42 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking



Hi Kent:

Bummer, to have made water for 3 hours only to have it go overboard! Or at least that sounds like where it went. My boat doesn't have a test facet on the control panel. So a question for you, Does water come out of the test faucet only when product water is being made as witnessed by the flow gauge/tube? I am trying to get a sense of how your system is plumbed. Is the diverter solenoid downstream of the test faucet or upstream of it?

Kent: Water comes out whether the green light (good water) or amber light (bad water) is on, so I guess the diverter is after the test faucet. The valve in the faucet leaks, so I had to cap it off. I'm going to have to buy a new one from Dessalator since I've been unable to find one that fits the threads elsewhere. In the meantime I can check water quality by taking the cap off. It will be messy, but I think I can do it without getting water everywhere.

If your control circuit board is similar to mine, there are three control relays:

Relay 1. Controls the BP pump (low pressure feed pump) this is "ganged" to control a larger relay that actually controls the power to the pump. Sounds like it is working ok.

Kent: I don't have a feed pump, it's gravity fed.

Relay 2. Controls the HP pump (high pressure pump), this also is ganged to control the larger relay that controls the feed power to the pump. Sounds like it is working ok.

Relay 3. Controls the bypass solenoid. When the solenoid is activated product water (fresh water produced) is diverted to the tanks. On my system the default mode is bypass (i.e. the product water goes overboard). The solenoid must be electrically actuated to divert the product water to the tank. So the question is: is the solenoid itself not working or is the control circuit that actuates the solenoid not working, or is the water being lost somewhere else?

Kent: There's no evidence of water anywhere else. That amount of water should show up under the galley sink, the sump, or in the bilge in the salon. I just heard from Martin at Dessalator Spain. He said there's a bypass button on the 3-way valve that diverts water to the tank. He says that valve often fails from drying out and that I can over ride it by pushing the button and turning it a bit to keep it open. That would keep the valve open all the time, so I'd have to make sure water quality is good before over riding it. He says sometimes it will start working correctly after doing the over ride procedure.

The solenoid is merely a 24 Volt DC solenoid (on my system). You can test it by applying 24 VDC to its two wires. On my system they are the orange colored wires that go to pins 10 and 11 of plug 1 on the circuit board. The fuse that protects Relay 3 must be good because it is the same fuse that protects relay 1 and 2.

I found that my system takes anywhere from 2-5 minutes to produce good water (depending on how long it has been idle). The timer on my original circuit board sent product water to the tank long before good quality water was produced, so I wired a manual switch on the solenoid circuit. When my sensor shows EC (electrical conductivity) less than 550 microSeimens I throw the switch to divert product water to the tanks. If the alarm on the EC sensor goes off, indicating EC of over 550 mS, it sounds a 110 Decibel Sonalert and I run to the galley and throw the manual switch to off.
Kent: I still haven't done anything about the "sham" water quality sensor. Was going to get started on that when these problems started. I've been relying on testing the water coming from the test faucet to make sure the water I'm putting in the tank is good. Once I get this straightened out I'll make the changes you suggest.


If you supply 24 VDC to the solenoid you should here it click (sometimes hard to do with the genset and HP pump running).

You can test the solenoid in peace an quite with the genset off by:

1. turning on the rotary control switch (this supplies 24 VDC to the control board)
2. using a multimeter check to see if you have 24 VDC on pin 10 of plug 1.
3. if you have 24 VDC on that pin, then using a piece of wire, provide a ground to pin 11 of plug 1 by shorting between pin 11 and the inboard base of fuse 3 (inboard referring to the circuit board so the end towards the center of the circuit board) . You should hear the solenoid click. The solenoid is on top of the flow gauge/tube. If you can confirm the solenoid actuating, then there may be a control relay (3) issue, a stuck solenoid or some other control issue. If that is the case you can make a work around by wiring a manual control switch like I have done. If the solenoid is stuck, gently tapping it may break it loose.

The parts location picture is in the Photos section under Amel SM Dessalator and the schematics are in the Files section.

I hope this helps. If I can be of any further assistance please post or you can give me a call at 801-543-5801.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM 335 s/v Liahona
Un-insured (due to Lemma Insurance's bankruptcy) and on the hard in Jolly Harbor, Antigua
Kent: Have you made contact with the multiple recommended insurers yet? I'd be pretty nervous about not being insured. Thanks again for all your help, Gary. Wish I could watch you at work...maybe it wouldn't seem so complicated. All your posts and photos are very helpful in identifying the parts and understanding how stuff works. I'm still a bit timid when it comes to getting my hands on electrical gear, but once I do it things seem fairly simple most of the time.



--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@> wrote:

Hello again, everyone,
I finally got back to KRISTY last weekend. I sailed her out into clean water and turned the 60 l/hr Dessalator water maker on. Martin at the Spain office of Desallator said that the blinking light should just be due to low pressure. He suggested that I turn it on and let it run for a few minutes...sure enough, after a couple of minutes of turning the pressure knob on the panel all the way up to get it into the green zone, the blinking/clicking stopped and the "float" on the panel above the sink showed that it was producing water. The light turned green (I know, Gary, that doesn't mean it's producing good water. I checked the water at the test faucet on the panel, and it was OK.) So I let it run for 3 hours, then shut it off as we approached the dirty water. To my dismay, when I checked the tank level after returning to the dock, I hadn't added any water to the tank. I think it had to be producing water since the float level was showing 60
l/hr, so I guess it was just pumping it overboard. The green light was on the whole time. Does anyone know how I can test the valve that switches output to the tank? Any other ideas about what might be wrong and how to troubleshoot?
Thanks in advance, Gary. I figure you know more about the Dessalator units than anyone else on the forum.







Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (10)
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[Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking/No water going into tank

karkauai
 

Hi again, Gary, et al.
I'm on the boat again and found that the control panel is very different from what you have, Gary. Here's what I've done:

I turned the unit on Manual and it came on without a blinking light. After 2 minutes the green "good water" light came on. I checked the product line going to the tank and no water was flowing. The water coming from the test faucet at the control panel tested good with my hand held TDS monitor. I pushed the over ride button on the side of the diverter solenoid and water flowed to the tank. When I turned the unit on Automatic, the amber light blinked continuously and no water flowed into the tank unless I pushed the over ride button on the solenoid. The green light didn't come on after several minutes. I found a new salinity sensor (came with the boat, imagine that) and replaced the old one which looked OK...no difference. I repeated this test several times and the same thing happened each time...no blinking amber light and green light on after 2 min. when on Manual...blinking amber light for several minutes and no green light when on Automatic.

I looked at the computer control board and the two black ?relays? say 12v, but the solenoid says 24v. The power at the solenoid is 8-10v. Should I be getting 24v at the solenoid? Seems like it should be at least 12v?
My unit has no feed pump, it is fed by gravity. Where does the unit read "low pressure"? When on Automatic and I turn the pressure knob the pressure goes up as it should to 60 bar on the pressure meter and flow in the glass tube with float goes to 60 l/m as it should.

Sorry for the long explanation of what is happening. Do you have any suggestions as to what might be wrong or what I should do next?

Thanks again for your patience and help.
Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy 1999 Amel SuperMaramu

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hi, Gary,
Thanks for your prompt reply.  I won't be back to the boat for a couple more days, but this is what I remember.  I'll try what you suggest and what Martin of Dessalator Spain says to do (see below).
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY

See my answers to your questions below underlined





________________________________
From: amelliahona <no_reply@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2012 10:42 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking


 
Hi Kent:

Bummer, to have made water for 3 hours only to have it go overboard! Or at least that sounds like where it went. My boat doesn't have a test facet on the control panel. So a question for you, Does water come out of the test faucet only when product water is being made as witnessed by the flow gauge/tube? I am trying to get a sense of how your system is plumbed. Is the diverter solenoid downstream of the test faucet or upstream of it?

Kent: Water comes out whether the green light (good water) or amber light (bad water) is on, so I guess the diverter is after the test faucet.  The  valve in the faucet leaks, so I had to cap it off.  I'm going to have to buy a new one from Dessalator since I've been unable to find one that fits the threads elsewhere.  In the meantime I can check water quality by taking the cap off.  It will be messy, but I think I can do it without getting water everywhere.

If your control circuit board is similar to mine, there are three control relays:

Relay 1. Controls the BP pump (low pressure feed pump) this is "ganged" to control a larger relay that actually controls the power to the pump. Sounds like it is working ok.

Kent: I don't have a feed pump, it's gravity fed.

Relay 2. Controls the HP pump (high pressure pump), this also is ganged to control the larger relay that controls the feed power to the pump. Sounds like it is working ok.

Relay 3. Controls the bypass solenoid. When the solenoid is activated product water (fresh water produced) is diverted to the tanks. On my system the default mode is bypass (i.e. the product water goes overboard). The solenoid must be electrically actuated to divert the product water to the tank. So the question is: is the solenoid itself not working or is the control circuit that actuates the solenoid not working, or is the water being lost somewhere else? 

Kent:  There's no evidence of water anywhere else.  That amount of water should show up under the galley sink, the sump, or in the bilge in the salon.  I just heard from Martin at Dessalator Spain.  He said there's a bypass button on the 3-way valve that diverts water to the tank.  He says that valve often fails from drying out and that I can over ride it by pushing the button and turning it a bit to keep it open.  That would keep the valve open all the time, so I'd have to make sure water quality is good before over riding it.  He says sometimes it will start working correctly after doing the over ride procedure.

The solenoid is merely a 24 Volt DC solenoid (on my system). You can test it by applying 24 VDC to its two wires. On my system they are the orange colored wires that go to pins 10 and 11 of plug 1 on the circuit board. The fuse that protects Relay 3 must be good because it is the same fuse that protects relay 1 and 2.

I found that my system takes anywhere from 2-5 minutes to produce good water (depending on how long it has been idle). The timer on my original circuit board sent product water to the tank long before good quality water was produced, so I wired a manual switch on the solenoid circuit. When my sensor shows EC (electrical conductivity) less than 550 microSeimens I throw the switch to divert product water to the tanks. If the alarm on the EC sensor goes off, indicating EC of over 550 mS, it sounds a 110 Decibel Sonalert and I run to the galley and throw the manual switch to off. 
Kent: I still haven't done anything about the "sham" water quality sensor.  Was going to get started on that when these problems started.  I've been relying on testing the water coming from the test faucet to make sure the water I'm putting in the tank is good.  Once I get this straightened out I'll make the changes you suggest.


If you supply 24 VDC to the solenoid you should here it click (sometimes hard to do with the genset and HP pump running).

You can test the solenoid in peace an quite with the genset off by:

1. turning on the rotary control switch (this supplies 24 VDC to the control board)
2. using a multimeter check to see if you have 24 VDC on pin 10 of plug 1.
3. if you have 24 VDC on that pin, then using a piece of wire, provide a ground to pin 11 of plug 1 by shorting between pin 11 and the inboard base of fuse 3 (inboard referring to the circuit board so the end towards the center of the circuit board) . You should hear the solenoid click. The solenoid is on top of the flow gauge/tube. If you can confirm the solenoid actuating, then there may be a control relay (3) issue, a stuck solenoid or some other control issue. If that is the case you can make a work around by wiring a manual control switch like I have done. If the solenoid is stuck, gently tapping it may break it loose.

The parts location picture is in the Photos section under Amel SM Dessalator and the schematics are in the Files section.

I hope this helps. If I can be of any further assistance please post or you can give me a call at 801-543-5801.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM 335 s/v Liahona
Un-insured (due to Lemma Insurance's bankruptcy) and on the hard in Jolly Harbor, Antigua
Kent:  Have you made contact with the multiple recommended  insurers yet?  I'd be pretty nervous about not being insured.  Thanks again for all your help, Gary.  Wish I could watch you at work...maybe it wouldn't seem so complicated.  All your posts and photos are very helpful in identifying the parts and understanding how stuff works.  I'm still a bit timid when it comes to getting my hands on electrical gear, but once I do it things seem fairly simple most of the time.



--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@> wrote:

Hello again, everyone,
I finally got back to KRISTY last weekend.  I sailed her out into clean water and turned the 60 l/hr Dessalator water maker on.  Martin at the Spain office of Desallator said that the blinking light should just be due to low pressure.  He suggested that I turn it on and let it run for a few minutes...sure enough, after a couple of minutes of turning the pressure knob on the panel all the way up to get it into the green zone, the blinking/clicking stopped and the "float" on the panel above the sink showed that it was producing water.  The light turned green (I know, Gary, that doesn't mean it's producing good water.  I checked the water at the test faucet on the panel, and it was OK.) So I let it run for 3 hours, then shut it off as we approached the dirty water.  To my dismay, when I checked the tank level after returning to the dock, I hadn't added any water to the tank.  I think it had to be producing water since the float level was showing 60
l/hr, so I guess it was just pumping it overboard.  The green light was on the whole time.  Does anyone know how I can test the valve that switches output to the tank?  Any other ideas about what might be wrong and how to troubleshoot?
Thanks in advance, Gary.  I figure you know more about the Dessalator units than anyone else on the forum.







Re: [Amel] SM Headsail furler maintainance

Dave_Benjamin
 

Andy,

Do you have any of the poles? There were 5 originally.
2 jockey struts, each connecting to the mast and extending just beyond the stainless fitting between the shrouds

2 standard length (J) spinnaker poles that attach to the jockey struts

Reaching strut

Do you have the piece spanning the shrouds that the strut goes through?

On our Maramu, the parts are Barbarossa if I'm not mistaken. Barbarossa was acquired by Harken.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Andy" <allezaubon@...> wrote:

Hi Graham,

apologies as this is off topic, but trust that I can touch base with you via the Amel group.

Pleased to hear things are moving ahead with your headsail furler and rigging questions.

It is good to know that there is another Amel in Hong Kong at present.

We brought our Maramu to Hong Kong in May this year.

Unfortunately the Headsail whisker poles on our Maramu are missing.

We would like to make 2 new ones however don't have any templates for the end sections.

I have been in touch with Amel France who have told me the best bet would be take the information from another Amel in the Region.

If it is not too much trouble for you, it would terrific if I could take a look at the poles on your boat at a mutually convenient time.

Apologies for being so forthright but trusting for your indulgence.

Hope to make your acquaintance in the near future before you depart for Philippines.

Thanks in advance for your time

Kindest regards

Andy

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Graham" <crwggb@> wrote:

Hi Eric,

Thanks alot for the info. I took the main metal cover that is roped to the pulpit off today and all looked fine in there. Any chance you could send pics of your grease nipple locations. I note that at the bottom of the foil there are several pop rivets, but also 3 screws that are moved using allen keys. These wouldnt by any chance be greasing pionts?

Graham
SM140 Sula
Hong Kong

--- In amelyachtowners@..., kimberlite@ wrote:

Hi,I drilled and taped two holes in the furler on high and one low using a 5 mm tap..I use the autoprop grease adapter togrease the furler and then screw in 2 nylon bolts. I also did this to the furling motor and outhaul.Ericsm 376 Kimberliet----- Original Message -----From: Graham Date: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 6:22 amSubject: [Amel] SM Headsail furler maintainanceTo: amelyachtowners@...> Can anyone tell me what maintainance one should be doing to the > headsail furler motor/gear box assembly on the SM. I have had my > boat for 7 years now this must be one of the very few bits I > haven't taken to pieces yet!> > Graham Boyd > SM 140 SULA> >




Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Gary is this in one of your photos...I think I missed seeing this button.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@..., amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:


Kent:

I forgot to mention that there is manual override button on the side of the diverter solenoid that you can push to further test the solenoid.

Gary


--- In amelyachtowners@..., amelliahona <no_reply@> wrote:

Hi Kent:

Bummer, to have made water for 3 hours only to have it go overboard! Or at least that sounds like where it went. My boat doesn't have a test facet on the control panel. So a question for you, Does water come out of the test faucet only when product water is being made as witnessed by the flow gauge/tube? I am trying to get a sense of how your system is plumbed. Is the diverter solenoid downstream of the test faucet or upstream of it?

If your control circuit board is similar to mine, there are three control relays:

Relay 1. Controls the BP pump (low pressure feed pump) this is "ganged" to control a larger relay that actually controls the power to the pump. Sounds like it is working ok.

Relay 2. Controls the HP pump (high pressure pump), this also is ganged to control the larger relay that controls the feed power to the pump. Sounds like it is working ok.

Relay 3. Controls the bypass solenoid. When the solenoid is activated product water (fresh water produced) is diverted to the tanks. On my system the default mode is bypass (i.e. the product water goes overboard). The solenoid must be electrically actuated to divert the product water to the tank. So the question is: is the solenoid itself not working or is the control circuit that actuates the solenoid not working, or is the water being lost somewhere else?

The solenoid is merely a 24 Volt DC solenoid (on my system). You can test it by applying 24 VDC to its two wires. On my system they are the orange colored wires that go to pins 10 and 11 of plug 1 on the circuit board. The fuse that protects Relay 3 must be good because it is the same fuse that protects relay 1 and 2.

I found that my system takes anywhere from 2-5 minutes to produce good water (depending on how long it has been idle). The timer on my original circuit board sent product water to the tank long before good quality water was produced, so I wired a manual switch on the solenoid circuit. When my sensor shows EC (electrical conductivity) less than 550 microSeimens I throw the switch to divert product water to the tanks. If the alarm on the EC sensor goes off, indicating EC of over 550 mS, it sounds a 110 Decibel Sonalert and I run to the galley and throw the manual switch to off.

If you supply 24 VDC to the solenoid you should here it click (sometimes hard to do with the genset and HP pump running).

You can test the solenoid in peace an quite with the genset off by:

1. turning on the rotary control switch (this supplies 24 VDC to the control board)
2. using a multimeter check to see if you have 24 VDC on pin 10 of plug 1.
3. if you have 24 VDC on that pin, then using a piece of wire, provide a ground to pin 11 of plug 1 by shorting between pin 11 and the inboard base of fuse 3 (inboard referring to the circuit board so the end towards the center of the circuit board) . You should hear the solenoid click. The solenoid is on top of the flow gauge/tube. If you can confirm the solenoid actuating, then there may be a control relay (3) issue, a stuck solenoid or some other control issue. If that is the case you can make a work around by wiring a manual control switch like I have done. If the solenoid is stuck, gently tapping it may break it loose.

The parts location picture is in the Photos section under Amel SM Dessalator and the schematics are in the Files section.

I hope this helps. If I can be of any further assistance please post or you can give me a call at 801-543-5801.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM 335 s/v Liahona
Un-insured (due to Lemma Insurance's bankruptcy) and on the hard in Jolly Harbor, Antigua



--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@> wrote:

Hello again, everyone,
I finally got back to KRISTY last weekend.  I sailed her out into clean water and turned the 60 l/hr Dessalator water maker on.  Martin at the Spain office of Desallator said that the blinking light should just be due to low pressure.  He suggested that I turn it on and let it run for a few minutes...sure enough, after a couple of minutes of turning the pressure knob on the panel all the way up to get it into the green zone, the blinking/clicking stopped and the "float" on the panel above the sink showed that it was producing water.  The light turned green (I know, Gary, that doesn't mean it's producing good water.  I checked the water at the test faucet on the panel, and it was OK.) So I let it run for 3 hours, then shut it off as we approached the dirty water.  To my dismay, when I checked the tank level after returning to the dock, I hadn't added any water to the tank.  I think it had to be producing water since the float level was showing 60
l/hr, so I guess it was just pumping it overboard.  The green light was on the whole time.  Does anyone know how I can test the valve that switches output to the tank?  Any other ideas about what might be wrong and how to troubleshoot?
Thanks in advance, Gary.  I figure you know more about the Dessalator units than anyone else on the forum.



Re: [Amel] SM Headsail furler maintainance

Andy Croney
 

Hi Graham,

apologies as this is off topic, but trust that I can touch base with you via the Amel group.

Pleased to hear things are moving ahead with your headsail furler and rigging questions.

It is good to know that there is another Amel in Hong Kong at present.

We brought our Maramu to Hong Kong in May this year.

Unfortunately the Headsail whisker poles on our Maramu are missing.

We would like to make 2 new ones however don't have any templates for the end sections.

I have been in touch with Amel France who have told me the best bet would be take the information from another Amel in the Region.

If it is not too much trouble for you, it would terrific if I could take a look at the poles on your boat at a mutually convenient time.

Apologies for being so forthright but trusting for your indulgence.

Hope to make your acquaintance in the near future before you depart for Philippines.

Thanks in advance for your time

Kindest regards

Andy

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Graham" <crwggb@...> wrote:

Hi Eric,

Thanks alot for the info. I took the main metal cover that is roped to the pulpit off today and all looked fine in there. Any chance you could send pics of your grease nipple locations. I note that at the bottom of the foil there are several pop rivets, but also 3 screws that are moved using allen keys. These wouldnt by any chance be greasing pionts?

Graham
SM140 Sula
Hong Kong

--- In amelyachtowners@..., kimberlite@ wrote:

Hi,I drilled and taped two holes in the furler on high and one low using a 5 mm tap..I use the autoprop grease adapter togrease the furler and then screw in 2 nylon bolts. I also did this to the furling motor and outhaul.Ericsm 376 Kimberliet----- Original Message -----From: Graham Date: Wednesday, October 24, 2012 6:22 amSubject: [Amel] SM Headsail furler maintainanceTo: amelyachtowners@...> Can anyone tell me what maintainance one should be doing to the > headsail furler motor/gear box assembly on the SM. I have had my > boat for 7 years now this must be one of the very few bits I > haven't taken to pieces yet!> > Graham Boyd > SM 140 SULA> >




Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking/No water going into tank

karkauai
 

Hi, Gary,
Thanks for your prompt reply.  I won't be back to the boat for a couple more days, but this is what I remember.  I'll try what you suggest and what Martin of Dessalator Spain says to do (see below).
Kent
SM 243
KRISTY

See my answers to your questions below underlined





________________________________
From: amelliahona <no_reply@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Tuesday, October 30, 2012 10:42 AM
Subject: [Amel] Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking


 
Hi Kent:

Bummer, to have made water for 3 hours only to have it go overboard! Or at least that sounds like where it went. My boat doesn't have a test facet on the control panel. So a question for you, Does water come out of the test faucet only when product water is being made as witnessed by the flow gauge/tube? I am trying to get a sense of how your system is plumbed. Is the diverter solenoid downstream of the test faucet or upstream of it?

Kent: Water comes out whether the green light (good water) or amber light (bad water) is on, so I guess the diverter is after the test faucet.  The  valve in the faucet leaks, so I had to cap it off.  I'm going to have to buy a new one from Dessalator since I've been unable to find one that fits the threads elsewhere.  In the meantime I can check water quality by taking the cap off.  It will be messy, but I think I can do it without getting water everywhere.

If your control circuit board is similar to mine, there are three control relays:

Relay 1. Controls the BP pump (low pressure feed pump) this is "ganged" to control a larger relay that actually controls the power to the pump. Sounds like it is working ok.

Kent: I don't have a feed pump, it's gravity fed.

Relay 2. Controls the HP pump (high pressure pump), this also is ganged to control the larger relay that controls the feed power to the pump. Sounds like it is working ok.

Relay 3. Controls the bypass solenoid. When the solenoid is activated product water (fresh water produced) is diverted to the tanks. On my system the default mode is bypass (i.e. the product water goes overboard). The solenoid must be electrically actuated to divert the product water to the tank. So the question is: is the solenoid itself not working or is the control circuit that actuates the solenoid not working, or is the water being lost somewhere else? 

Kent:  There's no evidence of water anywhere else.  That amount of water should show up under the galley sink, the sump, or in the bilge in the salon.  I just heard from Martin at Dessalator Spain.  He said there's a bypass button on the 3-way valve that diverts water to the tank.  He says that valve often fails from drying out and that I can over ride it by pushing the button and turning it a bit to keep it open.  That would keep the valve open all the time, so I'd have to make sure water quality is good before over riding it.  He says sometimes it will start working correctly after doing the over ride procedure.

The solenoid is merely a 24 Volt DC solenoid (on my system). You can test it by applying 24 VDC to its two wires. On my system they are the orange colored wires that go to pins 10 and 11 of plug 1 on the circuit board. The fuse that protects Relay 3 must be good because it is the same fuse that protects relay 1 and 2.

I found that my system takes anywhere from 2-5 minutes to produce good water (depending on how long it has been idle). The timer on my original circuit board sent product water to the tank long before good quality water was produced, so I wired a manual switch on the solenoid circuit. When my sensor shows EC (electrical conductivity) less than 550 microSeimens I throw the switch to divert product water to the tanks. If the alarm on the EC sensor goes off, indicating EC of over 550 mS, it sounds a 110 Decibel Sonalert and I run to the galley and throw the manual switch to off. 
Kent: I still haven't done anything about the "sham" water quality sensor.  Was going to get started on that when these problems started.  I've been relying on testing the water coming from the test faucet to make sure the water I'm putting in the tank is good.  Once I get this straightened out I'll make the changes you suggest.


If you supply 24 VDC to the solenoid you should here it click (sometimes hard to do with the genset and HP pump running).

You can test the solenoid in peace an quite with the genset off by:

1. turning on the rotary control switch (this supplies 24 VDC to the control board)
2. using a multimeter check to see if you have 24 VDC on pin 10 of plug 1.
3. if you have 24 VDC on that pin, then using a piece of wire, provide a ground to pin 11 of plug 1 by shorting between pin 11 and the inboard base of fuse 3 (inboard referring to the circuit board so the end towards the center of the circuit board) . You should hear the solenoid click. The solenoid is on top of the flow gauge/tube. If you can confirm the solenoid actuating, then there may be a control relay (3) issue, a stuck solenoid or some other control issue. If that is the case you can make a work around by wiring a manual control switch like I have done. If the solenoid is stuck, gently tapping it may break it loose.

The parts location picture is in the Photos section under Amel SM Dessalator and the schematics are in the Files section.

I hope this helps. If I can be of any further assistance please post or you can give me a call at 801-543-5801.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM 335 s/v Liahona
Un-insured (due to Lemma Insurance's bankruptcy) and on the hard in Jolly Harbor, Antigua
Kent:  Have you made contact with the multiple recommended  insurers yet?  I'd be pretty nervous about not being insured.  Thanks again for all your help, Gary.  Wish I could watch you at work...maybe it wouldn't seem so complicated.  All your posts and photos are very helpful in identifying the parts and understanding how stuff works.  I'm still a bit timid when it comes to getting my hands on electrical gear, but once I do it things seem fairly simple most of the time.



--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@...> wrote:

Hello again, everyone,
I finally got back to KRISTY last weekend.  I sailed her out into clean water and turned the 60 l/hr Dessalator water maker on.  Martin at the Spain office of Desallator said that the blinking light should just be due to low pressure.  He suggested that I turn it on and let it run for a few minutes...sure enough, after a couple of minutes of turning the pressure knob on the panel all the way up to get it into the green zone, the blinking/clicking stopped and the "float" on the panel above the sink showed that it was producing water.  The light turned green (I know, Gary, that doesn't mean it's producing good water.  I checked the water at the test faucet on the panel, and it was OK.) So I let it run for 3 hours, then shut it off as we approached the dirty water.  To my dismay, when I checked the tank level after returning to the dock, I hadn't added any water to the tank.  I think it had to be producing water since the float level was showing 60
l/hr, so I guess it was just pumping it overboard.  The green light was on the whole time.  Does anyone know how I can test the valve that switches output to the tank?  Any other ideas about what might be wrong and how to troubleshoot?
Thanks in advance, Gary.  I figure you know more about the Dessalator units than anyone else on the forum.

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Dessalator D60 amber light blinking

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Kent:

I forgot to mention that there is manual override button on the side of the diverter solenoid that you can push to further test the solenoid.

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@..., amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi Kent:

Bummer, to have made water for 3 hours only to have it go overboard! Or at least that sounds like where it went. My boat doesn't have a test facet on the control panel. So a question for you, Does water come out of the test faucet only when product water is being made as witnessed by the flow gauge/tube? I am trying to get a sense of how your system is plumbed. Is the diverter solenoid downstream of the test faucet or upstream of it?

If your control circuit board is similar to mine, there are three control relays:

Relay 1. Controls the BP pump (low pressure feed pump) this is "ganged" to control a larger relay that actually controls the power to the pump. Sounds like it is working ok.

Relay 2. Controls the HP pump (high pressure pump), this also is ganged to control the larger relay that controls the feed power to the pump. Sounds like it is working ok.

Relay 3. Controls the bypass solenoid. When the solenoid is activated product water (fresh water produced) is diverted to the tanks. On my system the default mode is bypass (i.e. the product water goes overboard). The solenoid must be electrically actuated to divert the product water to the tank. So the question is: is the solenoid itself not working or is the control circuit that actuates the solenoid not working, or is the water being lost somewhere else?

The solenoid is merely a 24 Volt DC solenoid (on my system). You can test it by applying 24 VDC to its two wires. On my system they are the orange colored wires that go to pins 10 and 11 of plug 1 on the circuit board. The fuse that protects Relay 3 must be good because it is the same fuse that protects relay 1 and 2.

I found that my system takes anywhere from 2-5 minutes to produce good water (depending on how long it has been idle). The timer on my original circuit board sent product water to the tank long before good quality water was produced, so I wired a manual switch on the solenoid circuit. When my sensor shows EC (electrical conductivity) less than 550 microSeimens I throw the switch to divert product water to the tanks. If the alarm on the EC sensor goes off, indicating EC of over 550 mS, it sounds a 110 Decibel Sonalert and I run to the galley and throw the manual switch to off.

If you supply 24 VDC to the solenoid you should here it click (sometimes hard to do with the genset and HP pump running).

You can test the solenoid in peace an quite with the genset off by:

1. turning on the rotary control switch (this supplies 24 VDC to the control board)
2. using a multimeter check to see if you have 24 VDC on pin 10 of plug 1.
3. if you have 24 VDC on that pin, then using a piece of wire, provide a ground to pin 11 of plug 1 by shorting between pin 11 and the inboard base of fuse 3 (inboard referring to the circuit board so the end towards the center of the circuit board) . You should hear the solenoid click. The solenoid is on top of the flow gauge/tube. If you can confirm the solenoid actuating, then there may be a control relay (3) issue, a stuck solenoid or some other control issue. If that is the case you can make a work around by wiring a manual control switch like I have done. If the solenoid is stuck, gently tapping it may break it loose.

The parts location picture is in the Photos section under Amel SM Dessalator and the schematics are in the Files section.

I hope this helps. If I can be of any further assistance please post or you can give me a call at 801-543-5801.

All the best,

Gary
Amel SM 335 s/v Liahona
Un-insured (due to Lemma Insurance's bankruptcy) and on the hard in Jolly Harbor, Antigua



--- In amelyachtowners@..., Kent Robertson <karkauai@> wrote:

Hello again, everyone,
I finally got back to KRISTY last weekend.  I sailed her out into clean water and turned the 60 l/hr Dessalator water maker on.  Martin at the Spain office of Desallator said that the blinking light should just be due to low pressure.  He suggested that I turn it on and let it run for a few minutes...sure enough, after a couple of minutes of turning the pressure knob on the panel all the way up to get it into the green zone, the blinking/clicking stopped and the "float" on the panel above the sink showed that it was producing water.  The light turned green (I know, Gary, that doesn't mean it's producing good water.  I checked the water at the test faucet on the panel, and it was OK.) So I let it run for 3 hours, then shut it off as we approached the dirty water.  To my dismay, when I checked the tank level after returning to the dock, I hadn't added any water to the tank.  I think it had to be producing water since the float level was showing 60
l/hr, so I guess it was just pumping it overboard.  The green light was on the whole time.  Does anyone know how I can test the valve that switches output to the tank?  Any other ideas about what might be wrong and how to troubleshoot?
Thanks in advance, Gary.  I figure you know more about the Dessalator units than anyone else on the forum.