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Re: Volvo TMD22 Timing Belt
Hi Paul,
I've done mine three times over the years - actually 4 times because I was off one cog and had a "do-over". It really is not difficult - all engines are just a bunch of nuts and bolts. I found it MUCH easier to lift the engine into the cockpit and then hug it properly, but I've got a Santorin and only about 8 inches of clearance on the belt end of the engine and I don't function very well upside down - it may be ok to do in-situ on your SM if there's more space to work. No special tools required. I use a cheap "pop" type tension meter and you can supplement that with a reasonable "eyeball" of the tension. I used drill bits to lock the flywheel and camshaft although $pecial steel pins are available. Shop manual says to also lock the flywheel at the starter motor, but that's redundant with the pin in the flywheel and is just for babies - duh, disconnect the battery so nobody tries to start it. They do sell kits with new idler and tension pulleys, but just a new belt should be sufficient, imho, and my shop manual doesn't suggest replacing the pulleys. Most important part, I found, is to carefully count the cogs between the cam shaft and fuel pump pulleys, mark them with nail polish on the pulleys and the belt. If you are one cog off it will run, but with a severe case of dyspepsia. It's a really fun project - you'll get some bragging rights, too! Cheers
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Re: No steering parts, rack & pinion, cables, from Amel
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Hi Emmon, I think that difference in loading is common when under motor, to do with prop wash over the rudder is my reasoning. As to replacement of cables and rack and pinion. I had play in the steering and assumed it was rack and pinion wear. Not so. Just needed cable adjustment. Easily done near the rudder head. Worth checking first. Regards Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl
On 05 October 2019 at 03:05 Eamonn Washington <eamonn.washington@...> wrote:
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Re: No steering parts, rack & pinion, cables, from Amel
I contacted Amel regarding supplying these parts. If they are not going to do it, we need to make arrangements because these will need service when approaching 20-25 years old. I also contacted to US dealer for UltraFlex: UFLEX USA 6442 Parkland Drive Sarasota, Florida 34243 - USA P 941 351 2628 F 941 360 9171 I hope to have an answer soon from both Amel and the US distributor. Steve, if you can find the gear numbers that will help. --
On Fri, Oct 4, 2019 at 3:03 PM Stephen Davis <flyboyscd@...> wrote:
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Re: No steering parts, rack & pinion, cables, from Amel
Stephen Davis
Hi Eamonn, What you are experiencing sounds very similar to the beginnings of the failure we experienced on Aloha in 2018. We were getting some noise initially from the racks, and it was more difficult to steer in one direction. Eventually, the noise and steering got worse, and then the steering jammed completely as the racks shed enough teeth to jam everything. I’m amazed that Amel would stop supporting parts for the steering system on the SM, as more and more boats are likely to have this problem as they age. We were able to obtain new racks, pinion, and steering cables from Amel a little more than a year ago. The conversion to hydraulic steering does not make a lot of sense to me. I’d check back with Amel again, and see if you get the same story. With that said, both the racks and steering cables are provided to Amel by Ultraflex of Italy. The steering cables are marked Ultraflex M61 FT25 498. The cables which came out of our boat were M41 FT23. My theory is that Amel switched from a 23’ cable length to a 25’ cable length somewhere in the production run after our boat was built. While the racks are also from Ultraflex, they are not labeled, and I don’t have a part number. I’ll keep looking for the original documentation they came with, and see and I can get a number. I would think Amel could at least provide the part number for you. We replaced the pinion/steering shaft as well, and I’m assuming this part was machined by Amel, but that is just a guess. While it would be best to replace the pinion with the racks, ours showed very little wear, and could have been reused. We concluded that the rack failure was ultimately caused by excessive friction in one steering cable. When we had the cables on the dock, one cable moved easily by hand, and the other was almost impossible to move. We cut the bad cable apart, and it appeared the internal lubrication in the cable had gotten hard over time, and eventually created a lot of internal friction. Why one cable, but not the other is anyone’s guess. If you need to do some sailing prior to getting this repaired, I suggest you rig your emergency tiller, and make sure it’s all working as advertised. The emergency tiller works very well on this boat, but I’d prefer never to use it again. We are also going to add a linear drive prior to leaving Hawaii next year, as having one would of allowed us to continue to steer with the autopilot. I have 2 different methods of adding the linear drive to the older SM quadrant, and have not decided which one I’ll use yet. Good luck on the steering problems, and I can provide you with some more info on taking it apart if you contact me at flyboyscd at gmail dot com. Steve Davis Aloha SM 72 Ko Olina, Hawaii
On Oct 4, 2019, at 4:05 AM, Eamonn Washington <eamonn.washington@...> wrote:
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No steering parts, rack & pinion, cables, from Amel
Eamonn Washington
Hi
Steering to port is harder than steering to starboard on my SM. I cleaned the rudder, checked for loose steering cables, and they seem to be OK. I do sometimes hear a quiet metallic clunk when the autopilot makes small steering adjustments, in addition to the normal noise from the rack and pinion system. I read the articles in this forum, especially what happened to Aloha, and the files section for pictures. Finally I decided I should replace the steering cables and the rack and pinion system to be on the safe side. Here is the problem. Amel do not have the parts anymore. They do not intend to make them anymore. I asked for the specifications but instead was told they might make something to convert my system to hydraulics, when they have time. I would prefer to replace the worn (I assume) rack and pinion system. I never opened it up, since I read it is difficult in the forum, and I was hoping that I could replace the parts at the same time. I am not keen in changing to hydraulics, I am not sure what that would entail. Does anyone have the specifications for the rack and pinion system, and the steering cables? Do you know if Amel actually made them or subcontracted the work to another company? I have the Rotary drive unit connected with a chain to the sprocket behind the steering wheel. I replaced the autopilot with the Raymarine evolution 400 package 3 years ago. I do not have a second autopilot. I have a spare rotary drive unit (would this work with hydraulic steering?). Eamonn Washington Travel Bug Super Maramu #151 Currently in Denia, Spain.
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Re: Volvo TMD22 Timing Belt
Hello!
I'm also planning to change the timing belt, for you who did it yourself, was it difficult? did it required any special tools? When at it, is it anything else one should replace while at this area? I plan to order the kit from Parts4Engine Paul on SY Kerpa SM#259 Lagos, Portugal
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Re: Name of the AC specialists in US.
Germain Jean-Pierre
jp.germain45@... Alan, In Vuda now 5 boats away from Danny Simms (Ocean Pearl) and I’m using Mohit Naicker.. apparently the best around here. The work would be far less troublesome if we had a Webasto Blue Cool S Maintenance/Repair manual. Specifically, this is what I need. Cheers, Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM007, Fiji.
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Re: Name of the AC specialists in US.
Germain Jean-Pierre
Hello Joerg,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
WOW! I’d been told by someone who should know…. Thank you. JPG
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Re: Name of the AC specialists in US.
Joerg Esdorn
Hi Jean-Pierre, I have a Climma central chiller setup on A55 #53. Sorry to be of no help. Joerg
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Re: Name of the AC specialists in US.
Hi JP
There are aircon / refrigeration techs in and around Suva / Lautoka that could surely help. There used to be a guy at Vuda Pt but he got swallowed up by Baobab and disappeared some years ago! Try asking Yacht Help in Denerau who they would recommend. Not being cool, it's likely that the problem is something simple, like a dead capacitor or a refrigerant leak, unless this system is dramatically different to others which I would doubt, but I've been wrong before ! Best of luck Cheers Alan Elyse SM437
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Re: 12V supply near 24V panel on Amel 54
I agree with Bill R. If you need the power, that’s a great converter. I installed one to support my engine start battery while using my SSB from 12V.
Dean SY Stella A54-154
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Re: How to disassemble Nirvana Furling Swivel?
svcharisma
The swivel on my 1986 Mango with power furling is similar, thought not exactly the same. There are several seals and bearings in the assembly. I was able to replace all of the parts with the numbers that were still visible. The bearings were pretty much dust. After removing the seals, I had to take the unit to a machine shop to press it apart. When I reassembled with new parts, it was too stiff. I still haven't sorted this out, but I think lots of silicone grease is needed. I would love to hear more experiences with these older swivels. They are not the same as the SM swivels. Alan s/v Charisma Mango #62
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Name of the AC specialists in US.
Germain Jean-Pierre
Hello Amelians,
We have a problem: when we refitted Eleuthera, the Klimma units were completely destroyed. We changed the system to Webasto Blue Cool S which we understood to be the chosen AC fit for the 55. The system has been very reliable until now. BUT…. Now that we need it, the Blue Cool S is not being “cool” (pun intended.) Webasto is extremely protective of their technology and we’ve been unable to get a maintenance manual anywhere on the ’net’. Being in Fiji at this time, we’d love to have a functional AC system mostly to reduce moisture. Can anyone help? We wish to get in touch with the US AC specialist providing support to US based Amels. Kind regards, Jean-Pierre Germain, SY Eleuthera, SM007, Fiji. jp.germain45@...
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Re: Davits & solar panels
Hi David,
The choice is indeed endless. The structural decisions you make will go a long way to determine the power rating you end up with. Larger heavier panels mean more power, but you need to consider the mounting structure carefully, particularly if you are hoping to mount onto the davits. (as I did) My three panels weigh around 50kg, my stainless tubing weighs about 15kg. This weight is not supported at the lifting points of the davits, and so can likely be deranged when comparing to the 300kg weight limit. I have a 45kg dinghy and 28kg outboard motor. I am quite happy with these numbers. Dealing with the non-mechanical factors... The key things are reliability, efficiency, access to data and of course safety. I used the Victron MPPT solar controller with bluetooth interface. Victron is a reliable brand, (most would agree), and the BT interface gives good access to the system data and allows control without needing access to the hardware. The Victron unit is efficient, and regardless of brand you choose, you must get an MPPT controller for efficiency. Serial or parallel connection is a ubiquitous debate. In a perfect environment, serial connected panels are more efficient due to lower power loss in the cabling and also require lighter (cheaper) cabling due to lower currents (higher voltage). However, series connected panels are degraded much more by partial shading of the panels. This is a choice you must decide upon. I chose parallel. To tick the safety box you need to make sure you have good quality, properly rated breakers on both battery and panel connections. Properly sized cable with good quality interconnections is also critical. I used 3x 240W Panasonic HIT panels. Feel free to ask any specific questions you might have along the way. Good luck. Dean SY Stella A54-154
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Re: Annapolis Boat Show
Rob Hughes
yes we are owners SM Luna
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Re: Davits & solar panels
David Crisp
Thanks Thomas,
Can you tell me anything about your solar system - panels, controller etc. please? I'm looking online at lots of different panels, the choice seems endless! Best David SY Wilna Grace
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Re: 12V supply near 24V panel on Amel 54
I really like the Victron Energy Orion-Tr 24DC-12DC 20 Amp Converter (Isolated). It can be programmed as a simple 24-12 volt converter, or can even be used as a charger for the 12V starting battery. Even in the Isolated version, these are less than $100. Bill --
On Thu, Oct 3, 2019 at 1:22 PM SY STELLA <stella@...> wrote: Hi Thomas,
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Re: Companionway screen
Rick Grimes
Here’s our solution: Stitched a weighty stainless steel chain into no-see-em screen...(Did the same for all hatches.) Works great; easy to store away.
SV Rascal ASM2K #404 -- Rick & Linda Grimes S/V Rascal ( http://svrascal.com/rascal-listing ) 2003 ASM2K #404
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Re: 12V supply near 24V panel on Amel 54
Hi Thomas,
Since your current requirement is negligible you could steal 12V from one of the 12V instruments, but that is a really messy solution in my opinion. Like others, I installed a 24/12 DCDC Converter module in that cupboard and used it to power 12V outlets. I used the Victron Orion TR 24-12-5 (60W) module. This is non-isolated, but that’s probably not an issue for your requirement. Dean SY Stella A54-154
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Re: Rudder seal
Your a champ Bill, thanks
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
I must mention, this is a great community and forum, very very helpful and kind - excellent Regards Paul
On 3 Oct 2019, at 7:51 pm, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
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