Date   

Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage

Porter McRoberts
 

No you’re not the only one. We do it too. 
But our engine did fail, but it wasn’t a flooded engine scenario, but rather bad cylinder liners. A new engine. H version has been running well from Panama to New Zealand. 
I think it is good advice, on really any engine or configuration, if not sea water, sea mist and air get into the remaining open cylinder through the open valve. 

But a question to those who know much more than I re this scenario: doesn’t the muffler reduce flow from the external boat to the engine?  And also, the one way exhaust valve, at the exit of the exhaust from the hull, also reduce back flow?  

Best of luck Scott
Porter A54-152




On Jan 6, 2020, at 9:22 PM, Scott SV Tengah <Scott.nguyen@...> wrote:

Given the spate of failed Volvo D3-110 engines and more than a few with seawater found in the cylinders, I am inclined to believe that there is a design weakness in the exhaust system on A54s. I do not know if the exhaust system is significantly different on the SM and other prior models but it does seem we only hear of flooded A54 engines.

In any event, I read the following in my manual and at least two other A54 owners had never heard this advice:

"You must run the main engine everyday of sailing for 15 or 20 minutes (in 1 or 2 times) to drain the exhaust circuit from the seawater the waves that fill in it."

Am I the only one who does this?
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com
<Engine Warning Volvo D3-110.pdf>


Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage

Scott SV Tengah
 

Given the spate of failed Volvo D3-110 engines and more than a few with seawater found in the cylinders, I am inclined to believe that there is a design weakness in the exhaust system on A54s. I do not know if the exhaust system is significantly different on the SM and other prior models but it does seem we only hear of flooded A54 engines.

In any event, I read the following in my manual and at least two other A54 owners had never heard this advice:

"You must run the main engine everyday of sailing for 15 or 20 minutes (in 1 or 2 times) to drain the exhaust circuit from the seawater the waves that fill in it."

Am I the only one who does this?
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard

Mike Ondra
 

Hi Duane,

I initially replaced with a standard bolt temporarily, and then replaced that with the eye-bolt much later.

And as I have been remembering, I believe one of these I couldn’t even get out with the upward force. As I recall I cut it off high enough to get a vise grip on the bolt so it wouldn’t spin, and then drilled it out, small drill first down the center, then larger drills until all the bolt material was removed. This was a difficult operation.

Good luck,

Mike

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io
Sent: Monday, January 6, 2020 6:58 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard

 

Thanks Mike,

I'm glad to hear someone else had the same problem and that the only solution was to pull up on it.  I was going to be surprised if there was a nut buried under fiberglass that was free to spin.  I'll try putting a halyard on it and see what happens.  Finding the replacement bolt down here will be the bigger issue.

Thanks,
Duane
Currently in Guadalupe


Re: ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard

Duane Siegfri
 

Thanks Mike,

I'm glad to hear someone else had the same problem and that the only solution was to pull up on it.  I was going to be surprised if there was a nut buried under fiberglass that was free to spin.  I'll try putting a halyard on it and see what happens.  Finding the replacement bolt down here will be the bigger issue.

Thanks,
Duane
Currently in Guadalupe


Re: ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard

Duane Siegfri
 

Hi Gary,

Sounds logical, but alas, there is no access from inside that I can find.  Not even from the wiring compartment for the main mast.

Thanks,
Duane


My schedule has a small hole in it

 

I plan to arrive in Rome, Italy on 6 April. I have no plans until 14 April when I have a training session in Marseilles, France. I plan to be back in Galveston 18-19 April.

This might be an opportunity for me to help someone in Italy or France.

Bill

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar


Re: Recommentation for Sharki second autopilot

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

Hi Volker,
Your Sharki 176 had a longer mizzen boom than the older models and it over hangs the transom and is likely to foul a windvane unless you with lift the boom. I have seen it done with the clew of the mizzen being recut and raised by a foot or two. It looks strange but it works.

My preference was to fit a Raymarine Type 2 short linear drive directly to the rudder stock as  I had only just made and fitted a bathing platform on the transom and wanted to be able to use it for boarding.
I mounted on it the Std side in the aft cabin. Space is tight but it will fit under the berth. Getting the geometry correct when making the rudder tiller bracket was interesting but simple enough.

I used changeover switch mounted above the rotary drive above the galley to switch between the linear and rotary drives. A forty amp four pole switch was used as you need to switch the clutch connections as well as the motor supply.
The course computer is a Raymarine S2 with associated fluxgate compass and rudder indicator.
Both the rotary and linear drive have the same designation within the computer software and so no adjustment is necessary when switching drives.
I bought a complete new S2 package off Ebay to duplicate the whole control system which could be sold in the future. Fitting a gyro made downwind sailing much more comfortable.
The system has worked now for some eight or nine years and 10,000 nm or more including two Transats.
If all the files were transferred from the Yahoo forum then photos of the installation should be on this forum.
Regards,
Graham
Sharki 181


Re: ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard

Gary Silver
 

Hi Duane:  Are you referring to the ring bolt on top of the toe-rail just forward of the main mast chainplate?   If so you may find that it is secured from the back side with a nut instead of the mild steel imbedded in fiberglass method.  Several items, including some to the toe-rail mounted cleats are fixed from inside with nuts.  I can't remember for sure if the eye-bolt (aka ring-bolt) is one of them.  If it is, you can access it from within the starboard side hanging locker across from the forward head.  There is some foam stuffed up into the channel that is the underside of the toe-rail,  pull that down at the area where the bolt would be and see if there isn't a nut on the back side.

Hope this helps.  
Gary S. Silver, M.D.
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335
Puerto Del Rey Marina, Puerto Rico

Tip of the day.  AC issues are capacitor caused until proven otherwise.  Just swapped out three more this trip.


Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)

Arno Luijten
 

It is only the central stern one that suffers from this problem. The others are mounted on the gunwales, those are solid glass. 


regards,

Arno


Re: ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard

Mike Ondra
 

Hi Duane,

We had a similar experience with this bolt on Aletes. The stbd eye bolt spun but would not extract. As I recall we contrived an assembly (leverage) to exert considerable upward force on the bolt and then turned it out. The port eyebolt sheared off so we drilled it out (with cobalt bit) and re-tapped the steel backer plate and installed the next size up British thread bolt. Neither job was easy. Attached rub rail drawing.

Best of luck,

Mike Ondra

Aletes SM#240

Martinique

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Duane Siegfri via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, January 5, 2020 12:20 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard

 

I am working on the rusting bolts securing the stanchions.  There is a ringbolt on the stbd side (used to secure the halyard for the ballooner) on top of the bulwark that has some rust.  It appeared to be secured in the same way the stanchion base bolts are - threaded into embedded steel plates.

When I tried turning the bolt out it moved with the expected effort on a 12 inch long wrench, by which I mean it's not twisted off.  No matter how many rotations it does not advance out of the bulwark more than 1/8th of an inch or so. I'm assuming that somehow in the past someone stripped the threads, but it won't just pop out either.   It's just forward of the mast so I looked in the wire compartment that feeds the mast and there is no nut evident.

The only conclusion I can come to is that the ringbolt is stripped...any other ideas?

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer


ringbolt in stbd bulward for ballooner halyard

Duane Siegfri
 

I am working on the rusting bolts securing the stanchions.  There is a ringbolt on the stbd side (used to secure the halyard for the ballooner) on top of the bulwark that has some rust.  It appeared to be secured in the same way the stanchion base bolts are - threaded into embedded steel plates.

When I tried turning the bolt out it moved with the expected effort on a 12 inch long wrench, by which I mean it's not twisted off.  No matter how many rotations it does not advance out of the bulwark more than 1/8th of an inch or so. I'm assuming that somehow in the past someone stripped the threads, but it won't just pop out either.   It's just forward of the mast so I looked in the wire compartment that feeds the mast and there is no nut evident.

The only conclusion I can come to is that the ringbolt is stripped...any other ideas?

Thanks,
Duane
Wanderer


Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)

Theo s/v Paloma
 

I am very surprised that Amel used coring material in a thru hole area...

On my Amel 50, they use solid glass and a massive backing plate to support the railing and cleats.  I thought they have always been doing it this way.

s/v Paloma
Amel 50, #18


Re: New companionway lock source

Arlo
 

Hello Karen, that would be awesome. We are in Port Canaveral but will ping you our next trip to Lighthouse Point. How long will you be in Fort lauderdale? Really appreciate the offer. I can also order a few Y2's to see if they work.


Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.

Kaplan,Andre
 

Thanks Tom
Very helpful
Andre


On Jan 5, 2020, at 9:18 AM, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:


*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***
Hi Andre,

Not sure about dimensions on the Mango, it worked well on my SM. Check your holes and clearance above the sink. 

I used "Comllen Commercial Stainless Steel Single Handle Pull Out Kitchen Faucet, Single Lever Pull Down Brushed Nickel Kitchen Faucets Without Deck Plate”, available at Amazon for $47. Installation was pretty straightforward. I may have had to widen the hole for the hoses on the back of the sink a little bit with a rasp. The plumbing connections, if my memory is correct (always suspect) were plug-and-play. If not, then an adapter was readily available at the local hardware store. 

My only regret is that I had not done it years before.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Martinique

On Jan 5, 2020, at 8:01 AM, Kaplan,Andre <kaplan@...> wrote:

Tom
Can you share the type and model of the new faucet you installed and where you sourced it?
Thank you
Andre Kaplan
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71,1988
Westbrook, CT


On Jan 4, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:


*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***
One last idea, regardless:

If you have the original Amel faucet mechanism (which I assume is similar to that on our boat), I would replace it no matter what the problem turns out to be. Our faucet was very simple, a hot/cold mixing control, and the rigid faucet. I replaced it with a more modern faucet, which has two extra features: a switch to select either regular flow or spray, and an inner hose extension which allows the faucet to be pulled out of its base.

Both of these features greatly enhance dish washing, and reduce water usage.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Martinique 

On Jan 4, 2020, at 8:28 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

I suggest you install check valves (one way valve) on the cold side before the mixer tap. This will prevent hot water working it’s way into the cold side.
It is a common problem especially when motoring as the hot water gets up to 80 degrees Celsius and will be at a slightly higher pressure than the cold.
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML 54
Greece


On 4 Jan 2020, at 09:58, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:



[Edited Message Follows]

Guys,

Thanks for your advices.
I'm living on board the boat in Alicante - Spain.

Cheers

Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323



Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.

Peter Killen
 

Have you considered checking your hot water immersion tank?  I had the same problem on Pure Magic when we owned her and found that the thermostat had failed. Once replaced, the problem was solved. 

Regards 

Peter Killen 


On 5 Jan 2020, at 10:16, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:


Hello guys,
Thanks for the feedback again,
 
Following ngtnewington Newington's reasoning, I think installing the check valve could solve the consequence, but not the cause of the problem. I'll probably do it if nothing else works.
Changing the tap as Thomas Peacock suggested, I will no doubt have a better system, but I haven't solved the source of the problem either.
I did some tests yesterday, removing the core from the galley faucet, and cleaning up the calcium buildup in the water mixing chamber, where through the oring could be running hot water from side to side. I reassembled the system with silicone grease, and the same problem happened again.
I considered swapping the core of the bathroom sink faucets for Galey's and testing it again.
I need to figure out how to lower the boiler water temperature, because I live in the marina and leave very little to navigate using the engine.
Good puzzle I got for myself.

Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323


Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)

Courtney Gorman
 

Thanks perfect 


On Jan 5, 2020, at 8:17 AM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

These pictures should explain:
<B628101B-4F1B-4F89-8FFE-6CDE73EA5250.jpeg><93E6093B-6273-4505-A467-4AA9B8841A21.jpeg>


Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.

Thomas Peacock
 

Hi Andre,

Not sure about dimensions on the Mango, it worked well on my SM. Check your holes and clearance above the sink. 

I used "Comllen Commercial Stainless Steel Single Handle Pull Out Kitchen Faucet, Single Lever Pull Down Brushed Nickel Kitchen Faucets Without Deck Plate”, available at Amazon for $47. Installation was pretty straightforward. I may have had to widen the hole for the hoses on the back of the sink a little bit with a rasp. The plumbing connections, if my memory is correct (always suspect) were plug-and-play. If not, then an adapter was readily available at the local hardware store. 

My only regret is that I had not done it years before.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Martinique

On Jan 5, 2020, at 8:01 AM, Kaplan,Andre <kaplan@...> wrote:

Tom
Can you share the type and model of the new faucet you installed and where you sourced it?
Thank you
Andre Kaplan
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71,1988
Westbrook, CT


On Jan 4, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:


*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***
One last idea, regardless:

If you have the original Amel faucet mechanism (which I assume is similar to that on our boat), I would replace it no matter what the problem turns out to be. Our faucet was very simple, a hot/cold mixing control, and the rigid faucet. I replaced it with a more modern faucet, which has two extra features: a switch to select either regular flow or spray, and an inner hose extension which allows the faucet to be pulled out of its base.

Both of these features greatly enhance dish washing, and reduce water usage.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Martinique 

On Jan 4, 2020, at 8:28 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

I suggest you install check valves (one way valve) on the cold side before the mixer tap. This will prevent hot water working it’s way into the cold side.
It is a common problem especially when motoring as the hot water gets up to 80 degrees Celsius and will be at a slightly higher pressure than the cold.
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML 54
Greece


On 4 Jan 2020, at 09:58, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:



[Edited Message Follows]

Guys,

Thanks for your advices.
I'm living on board the boat in Alicante - Spain.

Cheers

Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323



Re: Warning about the foot of middle (removable) stanchion of lifeline/railing at the stern (Amel 54)

Arno Luijten
 

These pictures should explain:


Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.

Kaplan,Andre
 

Tom
Can you share the type and model of the new faucet you installed and where you sourced it?
Thank you
Andre Kaplan
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71,1988
Westbrook, CT


On Jan 4, 2020, at 8:58 AM, Thomas Peacock <peacock8491@...> wrote:


*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***
One last idea, regardless:

If you have the original Amel faucet mechanism (which I assume is similar to that on our boat), I would replace it no matter what the problem turns out to be. Our faucet was very simple, a hot/cold mixing control, and the rigid faucet. I replaced it with a more modern faucet, which has two extra features: a switch to select either regular flow or spray, and an inner hose extension which allows the faucet to be pulled out of its base.

Both of these features greatly enhance dish washing, and reduce water usage.

Tom Peacock
SM 240 Aletes
Martinique 

On Jan 4, 2020, at 8:28 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

I suggest you install check valves (one way valve) on the cold side before the mixer tap. This will prevent hot water working it’s way into the cold side.
It is a common problem especially when motoring as the hot water gets up to 80 degrees Celsius and will be at a slightly higher pressure than the cold.
Nick
S/Y Amelia AML 54
Greece


On 4 Jan 2020, at 09:58, JOSE PRIETO <prietomd11@...> wrote:



[Edited Message Follows]

Guys,

Thanks for your advices.
I'm living on board the boat in Alicante - Spain.

Cheers

Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323


Re: SM galley Faucet very hot.

JOSE PRIETO
 

Hello Michael, Thank you for the idea.
I'll leave in line for another possible solution.
I checked the two hoses on the outside of the boiler and both are very hot - that means hot water is all over the water system and on the way back to the boiler it reheats. I am thinking of installing a checkvalve on the boiler cold water inlet hose imagining that the problem may be inside the boiler and not the taps.

Jose Prieto SY Wayag SM323