Date   

SM Mast

karkauai
 

Happy Holidays everyone! I am applying for new insurance policy and they want the manufacturer of my masts. I know I've seen it on this forum before, but can't seem to narrow my search down enough to find it. Anyone know how made the masts for 1999 SM 243 or similar vintage?
Thanks,
Kent
SM243
KRISTY


Re: [Amel] Re: Boat will not come up to speed

murray k. seidel <mseidel@...>
 

Sundance sm349 at 2800 in calm water is hitting 8.5 to 8.8 Kn. Most likely
it is the autoprop mechanics. I cannot remember whether the pitch can be
changed or if you have not greased the gearing in the prop it may not open
to proper position. Check their web site. Murray Seidel



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of bent_jyllinge
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2012 6:21 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Boat will not come up to speed






When the bottom is clean and the motor is doing 3000 rpm, the only fault I
can think of is the mechanics of the autoprop. Maybe the blades doesn't
reach the correct position when going forward?
Do you see any change in fuel consumption?
Just a thought.

Regs Bent
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , Sailormon <kimberlite@...>
wrote:

Kimberlite has an autoprop. In her recent trip to st martin at 3000 rpm
with
the 100 HP Yanmar

we could only get 6.8 knots out of her in flat water.

The prop was shiny clean and the boat bottom scrubbed before we left NY.

There is no black smoke or vibration from the engine. The tranny fluid is
clean and not burnt, and the shift leaver at the tranny is

In the correct position.

Any ideas as to what the problem could be?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Dave_Benjamin
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 4:51 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [Amel] Amel article in Professional Boatbuilder magazine





Just received my copy of Pro Boatbuilder and was pleasantly surprised to
see
a detailed article about our boats. Does anyone have a digital
subscription?
I just get the print version. Be great to get a PDF of this article.







Re: [Amel] Re: Perkins Prima M50

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi thanks. The Perkins are great motors that go the distance which is why Caterpillar bought them.

Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Dec 4, 2012, at 4:46, Graham Johnston <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com> wrote:

Hi Richard,
The Volvo MD22 is indeed the Perkins Prima painted green with a different heat exchanger and a few other minor changes.
I believe that the cylinder head is identical in both engines and is the same as fitted to the Prima engines fitted to the Montego, Sherpa van and many other vehicles and gen sets. The head, being aluminium does have a reputation for cracking when used in road vehicles and so was a regular replacement job when those vehicles were popular. The cracking does appear to be less prevalent in marine applications, I have no idea why.

You will be able to pick up a cylinder head on Ebay for around £80, it would then be essential to have it pressure tested before overhaul. When overhauling our M50 I had ours pressure tested and then overhauled, it was not an expensive job as the cam and valves were in good order.

The parts from Perkins were very reasonably priced with a piston ring sets being around £16,00 each, big end bearings and main bearing were not expensive.
Gaskets are available off Ebay but I bought all Perkins which again were not expensive.
I now have a spare cylinder head and other bits from an engine I bought for £200 off Ebay out of an Austin Maestro.
Regards Graham.
Sharki 181 Zephyr

________________________________
From: Richard03801 <richard03801@yahoo.com>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 27 November 2012, 13:02
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Perkins Prima M50


Hi all. Give there are different prop drives in various Amels take care in the engine speed ratings as well as the heat on the prop shaft at high speed RPM on the cutlass and packing gland. There is also the power issue on the early Amel right angle drives the Satorin it is not as robust as the Super Maramu with the TMD22. You might well consider stay closer too the Amel power rating in any case.

Regards

Richard Piller SM 209.

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 25, 2012, at 15:54, "Dave_Benjamin" <mailto:dave_benjamin%40yahoo.com> wrote:

We are one of the people with a 75hp Yanmar turbodiesel in our Maramu. The previous owner repowered the boat but I'm happy to supply any info or pictures. We love the engine. We've been able to make good progress in conditions that other boats would be lucky to make 2 or 3 knots.

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "jjjk12s" <jjjk12s@...> wrote:

Mike,

I know a couple of people here have the 75hp Yanmar in their Maramu which is like 4jh5 54hp but with a turbo and it fits with, I think, some slight alteration of the engine beds. There were some posts about it a while back talking about it and which transmission fits best.

I have an M60 (same block as the M50 and Volvo MD22). I personally wouldn't put the Volvo head on the Perkins block as I don't think all parts are interchangable (eg the wiring is diferent) but would buy a whole second hand engine if I went that route. I think there are more Volvo MD22s around than m50s and a reconditioned one would be a straight swap and probably the easiest way to go.

Are you happy with the power you have? If so the 54 Yanmar or the Beta 60 would both be good engines if you wanted a new engine. I looked at it awhile ago but can't remember all the details you need such as which side the alternator, fuel pump, starter are on and exhaust diameter and whether it is necessary to repitch or change the prop etc. I think the Beta would probably be better value and they can make custom feet so you may be able to get them made to match the M50. I think the Beta also reaches max power at lower revs (2700) than the Yanmar (3200?)

If you wanted a bit more power there is very little choice and the 75hp Yanmar is the most obvious. I have one but not in my Maramu and it has been good.

Regards
John, Popeye Maramu #91

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@> wrote:

Hi All - particularly Maramu and Santorin owners. The Faithful Perkins M50 in my Santorin has finally started to show signs of failure and needs a top end rebuild. Perkins (UK) failed all 6 of the latest batch of cylinder head assemblies, which puts a serious delay in our plans.
Inevitably, I am thinking of a replacement engine, and I know that the M50 has been replaced in some Amels by the Volvo MD22 - looking at the drawings of both I'm convinced that the only difference is the paint colour!- and both are no longer made.

I'm being recommended the Yanmar 4JH5E - has anyone any experience of installing one of these in an Amel of the Santorin/Maramu vintage??

Thanks

Mike
Santorin SN027 - Akwaaba








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Perkins Prima M50 Alternator upgrade

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi yes we put a 125 amp alternator from a big General Motors suv. When doing the install we used a turn buckle to set the belt tension and heavy duty service drive belt. We also had it wired to run the tachometer. That was done on Maramu 184.

Regards on SM 209 for sale in Annapolis.

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Dec 4, 2012, at 5:59, "joemac4sail" <joemac4sail@yahoo.ie> wrote:

Hi All
Just wondering if anyone has changed the standard alternator fitted to the M50 for a larger alternator, suitable to cope with a bigger battery bank (400amp. I'm trying to find an option that works with the engine alternator bracket, rather than going to the likes of Balmar for the full package of Alternator, Smart Regulator and Loom.
Regards Joe


Perkins Prima M50 Alternator upgrade

joseph mc donnell
 

Hi All
Just wondering if anyone has changed the standard alternator fitted to the M50 for a larger alternator, suitable to cope with a bigger battery bank (400amp. I'm trying to find an option that works with the engine alternator bracket, rather than going to the likes of Balmar for the full package of Alternator, Smart Regulator and Loom.
Regards Joe


Re: [Amel] Re: Perkins Prima M50

GrahamJohnston42 <grahamjohnston42@yahoo.com>
 

Hi Richard,
The Volvo MD22 is indeed the Perkins Prima painted green with a different heat exchanger and a few other minor changes.
I believe that the cylinder head is identical in both engines and is the same as fitted to the Prima engines fitted to the Montego, Sherpa van and many other vehicles and gen sets. The head, being aluminium does have a reputation for cracking when used in road vehicles and so was a regular replacement job when those vehicles were popular. The cracking does appear to be less prevalent in marine applications, I have no idea why.
 
You will be able to pick up a cylinder head on Ebay for around £80, it would then be essential to have it pressure tested before overhaul. When overhauling our M50 I had ours pressure tested and then overhauled, it was not an expensive job as the cam and valves were in good order.
 
The parts from Perkins were very reasonably priced with a piston ring sets being around £16,00 each, big end bearings and main bearing were not expensive.
Gaskets are available off Ebay but I bought all Perkins which again were not expensive.
I now have a spare cylinder head and other bits from an engine I bought for £200 off Ebay out of an Austin Maestro.
Regards Graham.
 Sharki 181 Zephyr



________________________________
From: Richard03801 <richard03801@yahoo.com>
To: "amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com" <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Tuesday, 27 November 2012, 13:02
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Perkins Prima M50

 
Hi all. Give there are different prop drives in various Amels take care in the engine speed ratings as well as the heat on the prop shaft at high speed RPM on the cutlass and packing gland. There is also the power issue on the early Amel right angle drives the Satorin it is not as robust as the Super Maramu with the TMD22. You might well consider stay closer too the Amel power rating in any case.

Regards

Richard Piller SM 209.

Cell 603 767 5330

On Nov 25, 2012, at 15:54, "Dave_Benjamin" <mailto:dave_benjamin%40yahoo.com> wrote:

We are one of the people with a 75hp Yanmar turbodiesel in our Maramu. The previous owner repowered the boat but I'm happy to supply any info or pictures. We love the engine. We've been able to make good progress in conditions that other boats would be lucky to make 2 or 3 knots.

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "jjjk12s" <jjjk12s@...> wrote:

Mike,

I know a couple of people here have the 75hp Yanmar in their Maramu which is like 4jh5 54hp but with a turbo and it fits with, I think, some slight alteration of the engine beds. There were some posts about it a while back talking about it and which transmission fits best.

I have an M60 (same block as the M50 and Volvo MD22). I personally wouldn't put the Volvo head on the Perkins block as I don't think all parts are interchangable (eg the wiring is diferent) but would buy a whole second hand engine if I went that route. I think there are more Volvo MD22s around than m50s and a reconditioned one would be a straight swap and probably the easiest way to go.

Are you happy with the power you have? If so the 54 Yanmar or the Beta 60 would both be good engines if you wanted a new engine. I looked at it awhile ago but can't remember all the details you need such as which side the alternator, fuel pump, starter are on and exhaust diameter and whether it is necessary to repitch or change the prop etc. I think the Beta would probably be better value and they can make custom feet so you may be able to get them made to match the M50. I think the Beta also reaches max power at lower revs (2700) than the Yanmar (3200?)

If you wanted a bit more power there is very little choice and the 75hp Yanmar is the most obvious. I have one but not in my Maramu and it has been good.

Regards
John, Popeye Maramu #91

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, Chris Smither <yachtakwaaba@> wrote:

Hi All - particularly Maramu and Santorin owners. The Faithful Perkins M50 in my Santorin has finally started to show signs of failure and needs a top end rebuild. Perkins (UK) failed all 6 of the latest batch of cylinder head assemblies, which puts a serious delay in our plans.
Inevitably, I am thinking of a replacement engine, and I know that the M50 has been replaced in some Amels by the Volvo MD22 - looking at the drawings of both I'm convinced that the only difference is the paint colour!- and both are no longer made.

I'm being recommended the Yanmar 4JH5E - has anyone any experience of installing one of these in an Amel of the Santorin/Maramu vintage??

Thanks

Mike
Santorin SN027 - Akwaaba








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Internet Range Extender (Booster Antenna)

Ian Shepherd
 

On Bill's recommendation I ordered an Island Time wifi kit and have
installed it on my SM2000. The antenna is mounted on the back stay
crossbar and the router is located in the aft cabin rear portside locker
on the top shelf. As I invariably have the inverter on when using my
personnel laptop, I power the Bullet two way amp and the modem via a
240V/12V power supply. I ran a wire from the aft heads AC socket to the
rear locker. The CAT5 cable enters the boat via a through hull
compression seal mounted on the toe rail just in front of the aft port
side stanchion and then into the aft cabin locker routing above the gas
locker and through the bulkhead in line with the wiring loom fabric sleeve.

Setting up amounted to very little other than changing my router's SSID
to what I wanted and also the password to one I could remember. Results
have been very impressive. For the first time I have an excellent fast
internet connection on board whilst in Larnaca marina. When I set the
equipment up in my flat before installing it on the yacht, I was getting
fair internet throughput from unsecured routers as far as 0.7 of a mile
away. The in-line antenna and Bullet are robustly made and well
weatherproofed. Installation instructions were excellent, and Bob
Stewart was extremely helpful when answering my pre order questions.

I consider this to have been a worthwhile investment.

Thanks Bill

Ian Shepherd SM2000 #414 'Crusader' Cyprus

On 30/11/2012 15:08, Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe wrote:

There is a product offered by an ex-cruiser and ex-IT guy that now has
a computer business that specializes in marine computers and marine
WiFi solutions. I have helped several people install his systems. When
you receive the components you also receive instructions written by
him in plain language. Before he ships one of his WiFi packages he
connects all of the components and programs the router for you so that
you literally plug and play.

He has been providing a complete system with a router that will share
the WiFi connection that you receive from shore within your boat by
WiFi. I recently suggested to him that he change this router to one
that will also take a USB 3G dongle and share that withing the boat.
This will give you a choice of connecting to 3G or Shore WiFi, then
share that internet connection with iPhones, laptops and anything else
that connects via WiFi.

His name is Bob Stewart <rstewart@islandtimepc.com
<mailto:rstewart%40islandtimepc.com>>. If you contact him ask him
about the 3G router package that Bill Rouse discussed with him. His
normal package is at this link: http://islandtimepc.com/marine_wifi.html

My recommendation is that if you are going to spend money on a DC
voltage computer or WiFi, spend it only with Bob Stewart.

Hope this helps,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>, Dennis Johns
<sbmesasailor@...> wrote:

We have concluded our second year of cruising and have found that an
Internet range extender (booster antenna) is quite helpful in many
anchorages and marinas. Does anyone have a product that they are very
pleased with? We have experience with two different products but are
looking for something that is stronger and more consistent -off the
shelf, we'd prefer to not have to build one ourselves unless you have
simple, detailed diagrams.

Dennis & Virginia Johns
s/v Libertad
Bundaberg, Australia



Re: New Sails - Super Maramu from QSails Izmir, Turkey

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Thanks for the all of the input that I received here on the Amel Owner's Group and in private emails. We discussed new sails with 5 lofts including Incidences Voiles which is the new supplier to Amel.

We have ordered new Genoa, Main & Mizzen sails made from Radial Hydranet from QSails in Izmir, Turkey. I met with Tahsin Oge, the QSail owner, twice...once on our boat and once at his loft in Izmir and exchanged 20 or so emails and phone calls. He has been in the sail manufacturing for about 25 years. I was very impressed with his knowledge, his staff and his facility & equipment.

QSails is also a Selden, Nirvana and Furlex distributor for Turkey and the international manufacturer of Hood Sails.

At this point we are very, very impressed with QSails. When the sails are delivered next year I will report back with more information.

QSAILS
10040 Sk. No:22 A.O.S.B Çigli-Izmir/Turkey
Tel : +90 (232) 328 16 29
Tel : +90 (232) 328 16 30
Fax : +90 (232) 328 17 12
E-mail: qsails@qsails.com
Website is http://www.qsails.com/yeni/default.asp


Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:

Does anyone have experience with either of these lofts:
---UK Sails, Maramris, Turkey
---Q Sails, Izmir, Turkey

We are looking a hydranet radial and wanted to know if there are any comments on these lofts and/or hydranet radial.

Thanks,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey


[Amel] Re: Masse - (red light) - Toilet Macerator Pump - water in the motor

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Lorenzo,

I do not have the Masse Red light. I believe Amel installed it after #387. I am not sure how it is wired, but I suspect that it would illuminate if current was flowing to the negative wire. If I am correct on this, turning OFF the breakers will have NO change with the red light.

And, remember not all of the breakers are on the DC panel in the galley. For instance, the Toilet (WC) breakers are in the engine room.

Thanks for your compliment. I try to help anyone like I would like to be helped when I have a problem. What causes us problems is always:
1.) What you do not know -OR-
2.) What they did not tell you

With the correct and complete knowledge you/we can do anything.

Best,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "ferruccilorenzo" <ferruccilorenzo@...> wrote:

Hi Bill, your reply is simply wonderful. I will print it and include in Amel manuals, but this time my trouble aren't the jabsco pumps. I've disconnected both and the red light still switched on.
Does you know a method to reach the cause of red light? If I turn off circuit breakers on 24V panel, the red light doesn't turn off, I think it's because breakers interrupt the positive circuit,but not the negative (I have "masse -").


Thanks a lot to everybody who have read and reply to my question, and sorry for my ugly English.

Lorenzo. SM2k "Red Passion", hull 420, Med Sea (Italy, sinking Italy)

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@> wrote:



Lorenzo,

The Masse Red Light is an indicator that electrical current is leaking to the ground system.

The circuit breakers for the toilets are inside the engine room located on a gray electrical box on the "engine room-galley" bulkhead. There are 2 "WC" breakers, one for the forward toilet and one for the aft toilet.

If the toilet does not work and the breaker has been opened, it is very likely that the macerator pump on the non-working toilet needs to be replaced because the shaft-seal is leaking water into the motor. My experience is that it is not worth trying to replace the seal on this pump. I always replace the complete macerator pump, and I always rebuild all other pumps. This Jabsco macerator pump is costly to purchase, but made very cheaply.

Procedure to remove:
CUT CUT CUT


[Amel] Re: Masse - (red light) - Toilet Macerator Pump - water in the motor

ferruccilorenzo <ferruccilorenzo@...>
 

Hi Bill, your reply is simply wonderful. I will print it and include in Amel manuals, but this time my trouble aren't the jabsco pumps. I've disconnected both and the red light still switched on.
Does you know a method to reach the cause of red light? If I turn off circuit breakers on 24V panel, the red light doesn't turn off, I think it's because breakers interrupt the positive circuit,but not the negative (I have "masse -").


Thanks a lot to everybody who have read and reply to my question, and sorry for my ugly English.

Lorenzo. SM2k "Red Passion", hull 420, Med Sea (Italy, sinking Italy)

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@...> wrote:



Lorenzo,

The Masse Red Light is an indicator that electrical current is leaking to the ground system.

The circuit breakers for the toilets are inside the engine room located on a gray electrical box on the "engine room-galley" bulkhead. There are 2 "WC" breakers, one for the forward toilet and one for the aft toilet.

If the toilet does not work and the breaker has been opened, it is very likely that the macerator pump on the non-working toilet needs to be replaced because the shaft-seal is leaking water into the motor. My experience is that it is not worth trying to replace the seal on this pump. I always replace the complete macerator pump, and I always rebuild all other pumps. This Jabsco macerator pump is costly to purchase, but made very cheaply.

Procedure to remove:
CUT CUT CUT


Re: [Amel] Re: Internet Range Extender (Booster Antenna)

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Over the past 7 years, I have had several wi-fi boaster antennas on my boat with varying degrees of success. They were cumbersome, had heavy wires on them that had to go through the hatch to the computer. On top of that I had to haul the thing up the mast and tie it off so it wouldn't hit any thing. I never got more then 3 bars on the strength meter. I recently purchased a WIRIE unit. It is simple. Attaches to the life line or better the pipe that's on the 2 shrouds that hold the spinnaker pole. It has only a small 12 volt electric wire to hook up. I plugged mine into the cigarette lighter in the cockpit. Its that simple. The boat then becomes a hot spot similar to the router you put in your house to produce wi-fi through all the rooms. Now you can use 2 or 3 computers anywhere on the boat. I now get 5 bars on the meter. If you like your neighbor anchored next to you, give him your password and he can log in. If not, charge him a small fee to help supplement the cruising kitty.

John "Moon Dog" SM248

http://www.thewirie.com/products.html
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: karkauai@yahoo.com
Date: Thu, 29 Nov 2012 10:34:50 -0800
Subject: Re: [Amel] Re: Internet Range Extender (Booster Antenna)


























Hi, Dave.

How's that directional antenna work as you swing around your anchor? Is it mounted on your mast?

Kent

SM 243 KRISTY



________________________________

From: Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@yahoo.com>

To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2012 1:16 PM

Subject: [Amel] Re: Internet Range Extender (Booster Antenna)







I have a friend who is an expert in this field. His advice is to stick with directional antennas. We have a home-made one on our boat and it will pick up wi-fi miles away.



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Dennis Johns <sbmesasailor@...> wrote:

We have concluded our second year of cruising and have found that an Internet range extender (booster antenna) is quite helpful in many anchorages and marinas. Does anyone have a product that they are very pleased with? We have experience with two different products but are looking for something that is stronger and more consistent -off the shelf, we'd prefer to not have to build one ourselves unless you have simple, detailed diagrams.
Dennis & Virginia Johns
s/v Libertad
Bundaberg, Australia
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Masse - (red light) - Toilet Macerator Pump - water in the motor

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi what a great set of directions. Cheers.

Regards SM 209

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On Dec 2, 2012, at 7:32, "Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe" <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:



Lorenzo,

The Masse Red Light is an indicator that electrical current is leaking to the ground system.

The circuit breakers for the toilets are inside the engine room located on a gray electrical box on the "engine room-galley" bulkhead. There are 2 "WC" breakers, one for the forward toilet and one for the aft toilet.

If the toilet does not work and the breaker has been opened, it is very likely that the macerator pump on the non-working toilet needs to be replaced because the shaft-seal is leaking water into the motor. My experience is that it is not worth trying to replace the seal on this pump. I always replace the complete macerator pump, and I always rebuild all other pumps. This Jabsco macerator pump is costly to purchase, but made very cheaply.

Procedure to remove:
1.) You will need some electrical spade connectors (possibly 5mm--not sure of the size, check yours), some silicon grease for the new O ring, a flat screw driver and a 8mm socket or spanner.

2.) Before you remove the motor, you might want to pour a mixture of 20% bleach and water into the toilet (about 1/2 liter), and then drain the toilet as much as possible.

3.) Remove the pump plastic cover. It is easily removed by lifting up (it snaps in place).

4.) Use the 8mm to loosen the bolt which secures the yellow/green wire. Simply loosen the bolt and the wire will slip off.

5.)Unplug the two spade connectors. The pumps I have purchased have 2 wires colored Orange for positive and Black for negative. Amel wires are Brown for positive and Blue for negative. Make note of the colors.

6.) Next remove the 4 screws securing the pump to the toilet…save these because you will need them to mount the new pump. Be sure to remove the approximately 50mm O ring from the toilet housing (it may stick to the pump housing when removing. It is not necessary to save this O ring because the new pump is shipped with a new O ring. Whatever water was left in the toilet will leak out as soon as the motor is removed.

Procedure to install:
1.) Cut the wires on the new pump to the same length as the old pump and place new electrical spade connectors on the ends of the wire, checking to make sure that the spade connectors will match the receptacles.

2.) Use silicon grease on the new O ring and place it in the groove on the new pump. Keeping the O ring in place will be the most difficult part of this job.

3.) Notice that the pump housing has an alignment groove that only allows certain orientation. The pump housing also has two drain hols to let water escape when the shaft seal starts leaking. One of these two drain holes should be pointed down I have made this mistake...so check. Align the pump housing on the toilet without disturbing the O ring and move the pump into position. Hold the pump into that position as you tighten all 4 screws…remember, I said keeping that O ring in the groove will be the most difficult part of this procedure…it will be. Once the 4 screws are tight, pour about 500cc of water into the bowel. If it does not leak, the O ring is in place. If it leaks go back to #2 above and start over. Very sticky silicone grease can help keeping the O ring in place along with patience.

4.) Connect the yellow/green wire using the 8mm tool

5.) Connect the wires. If they are colored like the pumps I have received and like hull #387, you will be plugging the orange wire spade into the brown wire receptacle and plugging the black wire spade into the blue wire receptacle. Remember this is a DC motor and if you reverse polarity, the motor will run in reverse. The toilet will work with reverse polarity, but it will not work well.

6.) Replace the plastic motor cover and throw the old stuff away!

7.) Check the breaker in the engine room for WC and ensure that it is ON.

8.) Flush the toilet…if it works, drink a beer, you are done!

The macerator pump on BeBe Hull #387 is Jabsco number 37072-0094. I usually carry 2 spares because these have a life of about 2 years if you are aboard full time.

I hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Johnson" <mike.k.johnson@...> wrote:

Hi Lorenzo,



There is a discussion on some problems identified by the Masse light from
message 12137 onwards. In essence you probably have a voltage leak
somewhere which will need slow and careful deduction through the various
electrical systems to identify.



Kind regards



Mike



Solitude

SM 2k 461



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ferruccilorenzo
Sent: 02 December 2012 02:36
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Masse - (red light)







--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "ferruccilorenzo"
<ferruccilorenzo@> wrote:

Does anyone could suggest me how can I find the reason why the "masse -"
tester light is red?
The light turn off only if batteries (6 months life) are cut off. Nothing
happen if I switch off the buttons on 24V panel.
Thanks to all!
Lorenzo SM 420 Red Passion
Good morning, yesterday I found red light "Masse -" lightened, but this time
there aren't toilets. Does anyone have a suggestion?

I've tried to disconnect some green/yellow cables but the red light won't
turn itself off.

Thanks a lot.

Lorenzo, SM2000 n420 "Red Passion", currently Mediterranean sea





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel] Re: Masse - (red light) - Toilet Macerator Pump - water in the motor

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Lorenzo,

The Masse Red Light is an indicator that electrical current is leaking to the ground system.

The circuit breakers for the toilets are inside the engine room located on a gray electrical box on the "engine room-galley" bulkhead. There are 2 "WC" breakers, one for the forward toilet and one for the aft toilet.

If the toilet does not work and the breaker has been opened, it is very likely that the macerator pump on the non-working toilet needs to be replaced because the shaft-seal is leaking water into the motor. My experience is that it is not worth trying to replace the seal on this pump. I always replace the complete macerator pump, and I always rebuild all other pumps. This Jabsco macerator pump is costly to purchase, but made very cheaply.

Procedure to remove:
1.) You will need some electrical spade connectors (possibly 5mm--not sure of the size, check yours), some silicon grease for the new O ring, a flat screw driver and a 8mm socket or spanner.

2.) Before you remove the motor, you might want to pour a mixture of 20% bleach and water into the toilet (about 1/2 liter), and then drain the toilet as much as possible.

3.) Remove the pump plastic cover. It is easily removed by lifting up (it snaps in place).

4.) Use the 8mm to loosen the bolt which secures the yellow/green wire. Simply loosen the bolt and the wire will slip off.

5.)Unplug the two spade connectors. The pumps I have purchased have 2 wires colored Orange for positive and Black for negative. Amel wires are Brown for positive and Blue for negative. Make note of the colors.

6.) Next remove the 4 screws securing the pump to the toilet…save these because you will need them to mount the new pump. Be sure to remove the approximately 50mm O ring from the toilet housing (it may stick to the pump housing when removing. It is not necessary to save this O ring because the new pump is shipped with a new O ring. Whatever water was left in the toilet will leak out as soon as the motor is removed.

Procedure to install:
1.) Cut the wires on the new pump to the same length as the old pump and place new electrical spade connectors on the ends of the wire, checking to make sure that the spade connectors will match the receptacles.

2.) Use silicon grease on the new O ring and place it in the groove on the new pump. Keeping the O ring in place will be the most difficult part of this job.

3.) Notice that the pump housing has an alignment groove that only allows certain orientation. The pump housing also has two drain hols to let water escape when the shaft seal starts leaking. One of these two drain holes should be pointed down I have made this mistake...so check. Align the pump housing on the toilet without disturbing the O ring and move the pump into position. Hold the pump into that position as you tighten all 4 screws…remember, I said keeping that O ring in the groove will be the most difficult part of this procedure…it will be. Once the 4 screws are tight, pour about 500cc of water into the bowel. If it does not leak, the O ring is in place. If it leaks go back to #2 above and start over. Very sticky silicone grease can help keeping the O ring in place along with patience.

4.) Connect the yellow/green wire using the 8mm tool

5.) Connect the wires. If they are colored like the pumps I have received and like hull #387, you will be plugging the orange wire spade into the brown wire receptacle and plugging the black wire spade into the blue wire receptacle. Remember this is a DC motor and if you reverse polarity, the motor will run in reverse. The toilet will work with reverse polarity, but it will not work well.

6.) Replace the plastic motor cover and throw the old stuff away!

7.) Check the breaker in the engine room for WC and ensure that it is ON.

8.) Flush the toilet…if it works, drink a beer, you are done!

The macerator pump on BeBe Hull #387 is Jabsco number 37072-0094. I usually carry 2 spares because these have a life of about 2 years if you are aboard full time.

I hope this helps.

Bill
BeBe, SM2k #387
Currently Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Johnson" <mike.k.johnson@...> wrote:

Hi Lorenzo,



There is a discussion on some problems identified by the Masse light from
message 12137 onwards. In essence you probably have a voltage leak
somewhere which will need slow and careful deduction through the various
electrical systems to identify.



Kind regards



Mike



Solitude

SM 2k 461



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ferruccilorenzo
Sent: 02 December 2012 02:36
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Masse - (red light)







--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "ferruccilorenzo"
<ferruccilorenzo@> wrote:

Does anyone could suggest me how can I find the reason why the "masse -"
tester light is red?
The light turn off only if batteries (6 months life) are cut off. Nothing
happen if I switch off the buttons on 24V panel.
Thanks to all!
Lorenzo SM 420 Red Passion
Good morning, yesterday I found red light "Masse -" lightened, but this time
there aren't toilets. Does anyone have a suggestion?

I've tried to disconnect some green/yellow cables but the red light won't
turn itself off.

Thanks a lot.

Lorenzo, SM2000 n420 "Red Passion", currently Mediterranean sea





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: Masse - (red light)

Mike Johnson
 

Hi Lorenzo,



There is a discussion on some problems identified by the Masse light from
message 12137 onwards. In essence you probably have a voltage leak
somewhere which will need slow and careful deduction through the various
electrical systems to identify.



Kind regards



Mike



Solitude

SM 2k 461



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of ferruccilorenzo
Sent: 02 December 2012 02:36
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Masse - (red light)







--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , "ferruccilorenzo"
<ferruccilorenzo@...> wrote:

Does anyone could suggest me how can I find the reason why the "masse -"
tester light is red?
The light turn off only if batteries (6 months life) are cut off. Nothing
happen if I switch off the buttons on 24V panel.
Thanks to all!
Lorenzo SM 420 Red Passion
Good morning, yesterday I found red light "Masse -" lightened, but this time
there aren't toilets. Does anyone have a suggestion?

I've tried to disconnect some green/yellow cables but the red light won't
turn itself off.

Thanks a lot.

Lorenzo, SM2000 n420 "Red Passion", currently Mediterranean sea


Re: Masse - (red light)

ferruccilorenzo <ferruccilorenzo@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "ferruccilorenzo" <ferruccilorenzo@...> wrote:

Does anyone could suggest me how can I find the reason why the "masse -" tester light is red?
The light turn off only if batteries (6 months life) are cut off. Nothing happen if I switch off the buttons on 24V panel.
Thanks to all!
Lorenzo SM 420 Red Passion
Good morning, yesterday I found red light "Masse -" lightened, but this time there aren't toilets. Does anyone have a suggestion?

I've tried to disconnect some green/yellow cables but the red light won't turn itself off.

Thanks a lot.


Lorenzo, SM2000 n420 "Red Passion", currently Mediterranean sea


Re: Boat will not come up to speed

bent_jyllinge
 

When the bottom is clean and the motor is doing 3000 rpm, the only fault I can think of is the mechanics of the autoprop. Maybe the blades doesn't reach the correct position when going forward?
Do you see any change in fuel consumption?
Just a thought.

Regs Bent

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Sailormon <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Kimberlite has an autoprop. In her recent trip to st martin at 3000 rpm with
the 100 HP Yanmar

we could only get 6.8 knots out of her in flat water.

The prop was shiny clean and the boat bottom scrubbed before we left NY.

There is no black smoke or vibration from the engine. The tranny fluid is
clean and not burnt, and the shift leaver at the tranny is

In the correct position.

Any ideas as to what the problem could be?

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Dave_Benjamin
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2012 4:51 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Amel article in Professional Boatbuilder magazine





Just received my copy of Pro Boatbuilder and was pleasantly surprised to see
a detailed article about our boats. Does anyone have a digital subscription?
I just get the print version. Be great to get a PDF of this article.





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Re: [Amel] Internet Range Extender (Booster Antenna)

Giovanni TESTA
 

HI Dennis & Virginia,
I see you are at Bundaberg Marina. Next season I'm planning to sail from NZ to Bundaberg and to leave Eutikia on the hard for hurricane season.
Which is please your opinion about the general situation over there?
Thanks in advance
Giovanni & Marina Testa
Venezia, Italia
sv EUTIKIA SM 2K n 428 on the hard Opua NZ

----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Johns
To: southbound_group@yahoogroups.com ; Puddle Jump Grp ; amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2012 6:37 AM
Subject: [Amel] Internet Range Extender (Booster Antenna)



We have concluded our second year of cruising and have found that an Internet range extender (booster antenna) is quite helpful in many anchorages and marinas. Does anyone have a product that they are very pleased with? We have experience with two different products but are looking for something that is stronger and more consistent -off the shelf, we'd prefer to not have to build one ourselves unless you have simple, detailed diagrams.

Dennis & Virginia Johns
s/v Libertad
Bundaberg, Australia


Re: Internet Range Extender (Booster Antenna)

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

There is a product offered by an ex-cruiser and ex-IT guy that now has a computer business that specializes in marine computers and marine WiFi solutions. I have helped several people install his systems. When you receive the components you also receive instructions written by him in plain language. Before he ships one of his WiFi packages he connects all of the components and programs the router for you so that you literally plug and play.

He has been providing a complete system with a router that will share the WiFi connection that you receive from shore within your boat by WiFi. I recently suggested to him that he change this router to one that will also take a USB 3G dongle and share that withing the boat. This will give you a choice of connecting to 3G or Shore WiFi, then share that internet connection with iPhones, laptops and anything else that connects via WiFi.

His name is Bob Stewart <rstewart@islandtimepc.com>. If you contact him ask him about the 3G router package that Bill Rouse discussed with him. His normal package is at this link: http://islandtimepc.com/marine_wifi.html

My recommendation is that if you are going to spend money on a DC voltage computer or WiFi, spend it only with Bob Stewart.

Hope this helps,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387
Fethiye, Turkey

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Dennis Johns <sbmesasailor@...> wrote:

We have concluded our second year of cruising and have found that an Internet range extender (booster antenna) is quite helpful in many anchorages and marinas.  Does anyone have a product that they are very pleased with?  We have experience with two different products but are looking for something that is stronger and more consistent -off the shelf, we'd prefer to not have to build one ourselves unless you have simple, detailed diagrams.
 
Dennis & Virginia Johns
s/v Libertad
Bundaberg, Australia

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Internet Range Extender (Booster Antenna)

Rink De Haan
 

I have tried several techniques in the past. This autumn I bought a
product called "6-mile Wifi Unit". This worked perfect on my Windows 7
laptop computer. You can check out product details at this link:
"http://www.shiptron.nl/docs/WiFi/6-MileWiFi.pdf".
It is made by a small Dutch company consist of electronics wizzards
and only deliver to the marine industry. Product doesn't look slick
but it works super and what I found a relieve, it installed and worked
instantly.
I am based in Kusadasi Marina. Sometimes i pick up usable wifi signals
from the cruise ships docked at the Kusadasi cruise terminal.

Rink de Haan
SM2K #330 Razor's Edge
Kusadasi, Turkey


Re: Internet Range Extender (Booster Antenna)

SAMET GOLGECI
 

Hi All,



I read an article today at Plymouth Yacht Haven e-newsletter.

They recommend Spectrum brand to their guests and marina berth holders.


Maybe it gives you an idea?


*WiFi Signal Booster for Boat Owners:*

Due to the nature of marina layouts and variety of possible signal
interference in marine location, it is not possible to ensure 100% WiFi
coverage for all boat owners (& residents of local flats). These boosters
work with the Spectrum network AND any others you happen to sail to.

Spectrum has selected two WiFi signal boosters to offer customers. These
small units can be easily mounted on a boat or balcony, connects via USB,
and dramatically increases signal range. So wherever you are you have the
advantage of a better WiFi signal strength and better coverage range.

Repeatit Booster (up to 1km)
£109.95<http://www.spectrumtoolbox.co.uk/marinas/booster/booster_repeatit.php>

Rocket Signal Booster (up to 500m)
£24.50<http://www.spectrumtoolbox.co.uk/marinas/booster/booster_rocket.php>



http://www.spectrumtoolbox.co.uk/marinas/booster/

--
Saygilarimizla / Best Regards / Mit Freundliche Grusse;


Samet Golgeci
Managing Owner
Finike Yachting Agency

Tel & Fax : +90 242 855 57 57
Gsm 1: +90 533 772 55 85
Gsm 2: +90 542 657 43 03
Web : www.finikeyachting.com
E-mail : info@finikeyachting.com
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Transitlog Renewals + Check in & out procedures for Turkey + Brokerage
Yacht Guardianage including technical services and maintenance
Real Estate consultancy including organise house repairs + Maintenance
Supervising vacant property + Fresh Provisions & Supplies + Duty Free Diesel
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