Date   

Bow Thruster Amel 54

Doug Smith
 

I have spent the last couple of days trying to debug the side-power bow thruster on my boat, and the up/down 4 relay system.  My motor for up/down had a bad bearing and was blowing a fuse.  It appears to also have cooked a relay or two.

In my efforts at fixing, I redrew some of the electrical diagrams to make them a bit easier to follow, and thought it might help some of the others who have a similar problem.

Mine has the magnetic switches, instead of the pushbutton stop switches, and importantly, they are ‘normally closed’ switches, that open when the thruster is in the required position.

 

 

Doug Smith

S/V Aventura, Amel 54-113

Deltaville, VA USA


locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Scott SV Tengah
 

Does anyone understand "continuous cell balancing", because I don't?

When I have had unbalanced batteries, the batteries are look perfectly balanced until you get to 90% + SOC. This is because of the flat voltage curve of lifepo4. Above that, the imbalances show up. How does an active balancer reliably detect an imbalance continuously when things look perfect below 90%? Through coulomb counting to determine amps out to see if the imbalance shows up during discharge? That wouldn't be reliable as cells age at different rates. 

Note that imbalanced batteries generally just reduce your total capacity until the imbalance is corrected. This is because if one of the 4 cells in the battery see an overvoltage condition, the BMS should stop charging altogether, even though the other cells could still accept more charge. Charging is restarted once the overvoltage cell drops below the high voltage threshold, either through a resistor to draw charge from it or a method to transfer that excess voltage to the other cells. Then the charging resumes. The charging will start and stop multiple times as during the cell balancing process. I have seem this before on my Victron setup and have been assured by Victron techs and my own research that it is totally normal.

The desire for active cell balancing seems a bit misplaced. Even if somehow they detect cell imbalances when there is no voltage difference, you still need to fully charge once in a while to reset the battery monitor as I believe all battery monitors use (amps in - amps out) to determine SOC and as batteries age, that needs to be recalibrated if you want any sort of accuracy. So solving the former problem still leaves the latter.


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Richiesta libera pratica sanitaria SY Euploia

ste.dente
 

Stefania Dente


Re: servicing mainsail fuller and outhaul

ngtnewington Newington
 

Thanks Bill, mine never had a cover.

Great I am on the right track.

Nick


On 23 Sep 2020, at 16:47, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:

Nick,

<image.png>
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
  
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 10:45 AM CW Bill Rouse via groups.io <brouse=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Nick,

Maybe I was not clear...I was talking about the forward-facing cover that you fabricated. I think all the 54's I have seen have a loose-fitting cover on the forward end...maybe yours was lost, or maybe Amel did not have one for the early 54s.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
  
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 10:35 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,

So the GRP cover was always there. I took it off and bedded it back with silicone. The odd thing is that the front end was left open for spay to go straight in. I decided to glue on a pvc fabric and try and make it as close to water tight as possible but with the drain hole. We shall have to see, but I think it will help especially as the gear is well covered in grease. In heavy rain it is possible some water might come down the shaft but again I think not really.

I will cut open the pvc front to have a look after I have been out sailing a while and report. This is the before photo.<IMG_3987.jpeg>

Ironically the worm gear on this was fine but a bit of an eyesore and a mess. 

Nick

S/Y Amelia Aml 54-019


On 23 Sep 2020, at 16:18, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Nick,

I thought all A-54s had a cover where you made one, but maybe it was later model 54s. I do have an issue about the cover I have seen on 54s and that is there is not a good seal around the circumference of the end-cover to the motor/gearbox housing.

I believe that there is no way that sealing this will create too much heat.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
  
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 5:54 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
<IMG_3990.jpeg><IMG_3991.jpeg><IMG_3992.jpeg>

I recently serviced both main furling and outhaul gears and motors. I found the aluminium shaft on the furling motor very difficult to remove. It was soaked 48  hours in diesel and then pressed out with a hydraulic press, but it took a lot of pressure.  Eventually it came free. Whilst the outhaul shaft came up and out with some gentle taps, being stainless steel! I think that this mast furler should be pulled apart more often to avoid the aluminium seizing in place, maybe every two years, just drop it, move the shaft up and down, check the gear box and lip seal. Alternatively have a stainless shaft made.

Fortunately I had a spare gear box on board as one was in very poor shape with bad corrosion on the aluminium. However all went well and both are back and fully functional with new shaft seals. Although I now do not have a spare aboard. Something that I would like to have if I go off the beaten track.

I decided to make a cover out of some PVC I had kicking around to protect the boom furling one from the elements, as shown in the pictures. There is a drain hole at the bottom of the GRP cover in case some water gets in. It is quite small maybe 8mm. It could be widened to say 12mm if required.

Has anyone tried this? If so was it a success or does it just deprive the gear box of ventilation?

Nick back in the UK with Amelia ashore in Leros, Greece

AML 54-019











Re: In case you missed the QSails ZOOM

Cathy & Guillaume
 

Brilliant! Thank you Bill. These zoom meetings are incredibly valuable!

Guillaume
Carpathia III - SM2K #293
Now in Athens


Re: servicing mainsail fuller and outhaul

 

Nick,

image.png
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 10:45 AM CW Bill Rouse via groups.io <brouse=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:
Nick,

Maybe I was not clear...I was talking about the forward-facing cover that you fabricated. I think all the 54's I have seen have a loose-fitting cover on the forward end...maybe yours was lost, or maybe Amel did not have one for the early 54s.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 10:35 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,

So the GRP cover was always there. I took it off and bedded it back with silicone. The odd thing is that the front end was left open for spay to go straight in. I decided to glue on a pvc fabric and try and make it as close to water tight as possible but with the drain hole. We shall have to see, but I think it will help especially as the gear is well covered in grease. In heavy rain it is possible some water might come down the shaft but again I think not really.

I will cut open the pvc front to have a look after I have been out sailing a while and report. This is the before photo.

Ironically the worm gear on this was fine but a bit of an eyesore and a mess. 

Nick

S/Y Amelia Aml 54-019


On 23 Sep 2020, at 16:18, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Nick,

I thought all A-54s had a cover where you made one, but maybe it was later model 54s. I do have an issue about the cover I have seen on 54s and that is there is not a good seal around the circumference of the end-cover to the motor/gearbox housing.

I believe that there is no way that sealing this will create too much heat.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 5:54 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
<IMG_3990.jpeg><IMG_3991.jpeg><IMG_3992.jpeg>

I recently serviced both main furling and outhaul gears and motors. I found the aluminium shaft on the furling motor very difficult to remove. It was soaked 48  hours in diesel and then pressed out with a hydraulic press, but it took a lot of pressure.  Eventually it came free. Whilst the outhaul shaft came up and out with some gentle taps, being stainless steel! I think that this mast furler should be pulled apart more often to avoid the aluminium seizing in place, maybe every two years, just drop it, move the shaft up and down, check the gear box and lip seal. Alternatively have a stainless shaft made.

Fortunately I had a spare gear box on board as one was in very poor shape with bad corrosion on the aluminium. However all went well and both are back and fully functional with new shaft seals. Although I now do not have a spare aboard. Something that I would like to have if I go off the beaten track.

I decided to make a cover out of some PVC I had kicking around to protect the boom furling one from the elements, as shown in the pictures. There is a drain hole at the bottom of the GRP cover in case some water gets in. It is quite small maybe 8mm. It could be widened to say 12mm if required.

Has anyone tried this? If so was it a success or does it just deprive the gear box of ventilation?

Nick back in the UK with Amelia ashore in Leros, Greece

AML 54-019






Re: servicing mainsail fuller and outhaul

 

Nick,

Maybe I was not clear...I was talking about the forward-facing cover that you fabricated. I think all the 54's I have seen have a loose-fitting cover on the forward end...maybe yours was lost, or maybe Amel did not have one for the early 54s.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 10:35 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hi Bill,

So the GRP cover was always there. I took it off and bedded it back with silicone. The odd thing is that the front end was left open for spay to go straight in. I decided to glue on a pvc fabric and try and make it as close to water tight as possible but with the drain hole. We shall have to see, but I think it will help especially as the gear is well covered in grease. In heavy rain it is possible some water might come down the shaft but again I think not really.

I will cut open the pvc front to have a look after I have been out sailing a while and report. This is the before photo.

Ironically the worm gear on this was fine but a bit of an eyesore and a mess. 

Nick

S/Y Amelia Aml 54-019


On 23 Sep 2020, at 16:18, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Nick,

I thought all A-54s had a cover where you made one, but maybe it was later model 54s. I do have an issue about the cover I have seen on 54s and that is there is not a good seal around the circumference of the end-cover to the motor/gearbox housing.

I believe that there is no way that sealing this will create too much heat.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 5:54 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
<IMG_3990.jpeg><IMG_3991.jpeg><IMG_3992.jpeg>

I recently serviced both main furling and outhaul gears and motors. I found the aluminium shaft on the furling motor very difficult to remove. It was soaked 48  hours in diesel and then pressed out with a hydraulic press, but it took a lot of pressure.  Eventually it came free. Whilst the outhaul shaft came up and out with some gentle taps, being stainless steel! I think that this mast furler should be pulled apart more often to avoid the aluminium seizing in place, maybe every two years, just drop it, move the shaft up and down, check the gear box and lip seal. Alternatively have a stainless shaft made.

Fortunately I had a spare gear box on board as one was in very poor shape with bad corrosion on the aluminium. However all went well and both are back and fully functional with new shaft seals. Although I now do not have a spare aboard. Something that I would like to have if I go off the beaten track.

I decided to make a cover out of some PVC I had kicking around to protect the boom furling one from the elements, as shown in the pictures. There is a drain hole at the bottom of the GRP cover in case some water gets in. It is quite small maybe 8mm. It could be widened to say 12mm if required.

Has anyone tried this? If so was it a success or does it just deprive the gear box of ventilation?

Nick back in the UK with Amelia ashore in Leros, Greece

AML 54-019






Battle Born Lithium Follow-up - Video of an Independent tear-down

 

If you were interested in Battle Born Batteries, here is an independent tear-down:

And the same guy tearing down a Chinese Lithium from Ali Express :

This is the YouTube channel: DIY Solar Power with Will Prowse: 
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


Re: servicing mainsail fuller and outhaul

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Bill,

So the GRP cover was always there. I took it off and bedded it back with silicone. The odd thing is that the front end was left open for spay to go straight in. I decided to glue on a pvc fabric and try and make it as close to water tight as possible but with the drain hole. We shall have to see, but I think it will help especially as the gear is well covered in grease. In heavy rain it is possible some water might come down the shaft but again I think not really.

I will cut open the pvc front to have a look after I have been out sailing a while and report. This is the before photo.

Ironically the worm gear on this was fine but a bit of an eyesore and a mess. 

Nick

S/Y Amelia Aml 54-019


On 23 Sep 2020, at 16:18, CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:


Nick,

I thought all A-54s had a cover where you made one, but maybe it was later model 54s. I do have an issue about the cover I have seen on 54s and that is there is not a good seal around the circumference of the end-cover to the motor/gearbox housing.

I believe that there is no way that sealing this will create too much heat.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 5:54 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
<IMG_3990.jpeg><IMG_3991.jpeg><IMG_3992.jpeg>

I recently serviced both main furling and outhaul gears and motors. I found the aluminium shaft on the furling motor very difficult to remove. It was soaked 48  hours in diesel and then pressed out with a hydraulic press, but it took a lot of pressure.  Eventually it came free. Whilst the outhaul shaft came up and out with some gentle taps, being stainless steel! I think that this mast furler should be pulled apart more often to avoid the aluminium seizing in place, maybe every two years, just drop it, move the shaft up and down, check the gear box and lip seal. Alternatively have a stainless shaft made.

Fortunately I had a spare gear box on board as one was in very poor shape with bad corrosion on the aluminium. However all went well and both are back and fully functional with new shaft seals. Although I now do not have a spare aboard. Something that I would like to have if I go off the beaten track.

I decided to make a cover out of some PVC I had kicking around to protect the boom furling one from the elements, as shown in the pictures. There is a drain hole at the bottom of the GRP cover in case some water gets in. It is quite small maybe 8mm. It could be widened to say 12mm if required.

Has anyone tried this? If so was it a success or does it just deprive the gear box of ventilation?

Nick back in the UK with Amelia ashore in Leros, Greece

AML 54-019






locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Denis Foster
 

Hello,

Just had Flash battery Kaiken that does continuous cell balancing... but they don’t do batteries for yachts and private owners just for industrial companies.

so that s out for us.

regards

Denis


Re: servicing mainsail fuller and outhaul

 

Nick,

I thought all A-54s had a cover where you made one, but maybe it was later model 54s. I do have an issue about the cover I have seen on 54s and that is there is not a good seal around the circumference of the end-cover to the motor/gearbox housing.

I believe that there is no way that sealing this will create too much heat.

Bill
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
View My Training Calendar


On Wed, Sep 23, 2020 at 5:54 AM ngtnewington Newington via groups.io <ngtnewington=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:


I recently serviced both main furling and outhaul gears and motors. I found the aluminium shaft on the furling motor very difficult to remove. It was soaked 48  hours in diesel and then pressed out with a hydraulic press, but it took a lot of pressure.  Eventually it came free. Whilst the outhaul shaft came up and out with some gentle taps, being stainless steel! I think that this mast furler should be pulled apart more often to avoid the aluminium seizing in place, maybe every two years, just drop it, move the shaft up and down, check the gear box and lip seal. Alternatively have a stainless shaft made.

Fortunately I had a spare gear box on board as one was in very poor shape with bad corrosion on the aluminium. However all went well and both are back and fully functional with new shaft seals. Although I now do not have a spare aboard. Something that I would like to have if I go off the beaten track.

I decided to make a cover out of some PVC I had kicking around to protect the boom furling one from the elements, as shown in the pictures. There is a drain hole at the bottom of the GRP cover in case some water gets in. It is quite small maybe 8mm. It could be widened to say 12mm if required.

Has anyone tried this? If so was it a success or does it just deprive the gear box of ventilation?

Nick back in the UK with Amelia ashore in Leros, Greece

AML 54-019



locked Re: Batteries starting to get weak - MMM - What to do -

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Paul,

This Best Lithium BMS still uses passive balancing and it does not say if it only does top-balancing. So from that perspective it's not a great BMS.

Arno


Event: Jimmy Cornell - Crossing the Atlantic via ZOOM and YouTube - Saturday, 10 October 2020 #cal-invite

main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Calendar <main@...>
 

Jimmy Cornell - Crossing the Atlantic via ZOOM and YouTube

When:
Saturday, 10 October 2020
20:00 to 21:00
(UTC+00:00) UTC

Where:
Internet ZOOM

Organizer: Bill Rouse brouse@... +18323804970

An RSVP is requested. Click here to RSVP

Description:

Jimmy Cornell has influenced the contemporary cruising scene more than any other sailor. An accomplished sailor, public speaker and author, he has sailed over 200,000 miles in all oceans of the world including three circumnavigations as well as voyages to Antarctica and the Northwest Passage.

Thousands of sailors have fulfilled their dream of blue water cruising with the help of Jimmy Cornell’s books, among them the international bestseller World Cruising Routes. Now in its 8th edition, and with over 200,000 copies sold to date, this is one of the best selling nautical publications in the world.

As the founder of the highly successful ARC transatlantic rally, Jimmy Cornell is credited with having devised the offshore cruising rally concept. In the last four decades, Jimmy Cornell has organized 38 transatlantic rallies, five round the world rallies, and one round the world race, with over 3,000 boats and 15,000 sailors having participated in his sailing events.

From my perspective, the first Jimmy Cornell seminar that Judy and I attended was after we had sailed most of the world and had over 20 years of sailing experience. We learned a lot!

We are very pleased that Jimmy has taken time out of his very busy schedule to give a special ZOOM presentation to the Amel Yacht Owners Group. I encourage you to RSVP soon for this meeting.

ZOOM and YouTube instructions to be added soon on this calendar notice.

CW Bill Rouse


Re: Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.

Courtney Gorman
 

hi Porter it does come off but lots of prying and force and lube.  I still had to buy a new one as it could not be repaired in grenada.  I believe in the south Pacific they are more creative so good luck.
Cheers
Courtney
Trippin
54 #101
Brunswick


-----Original Message-----
From: Porter McRoberts via groups.io <portermcroberts@...>
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Sent: Tue, Sep 22, 2020 9:33 pm
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.

Dear Amelians: 
I beg any insight if you would. This is a 1.5 year old motor and housing from Amel for the main sail foil furling motor.  The last one, seal was damaged and the whole unit unsalvageable. This is a “new” 1.5 year old replacement. Now not working. Relays and switches all fine. Motor gotten progressively more “tired”  and now has stopped rotating. 

I have removed the base and look in and see no corrosion. But I think I need to remove the whole motor assembly from the housing which mean also removing the top cap. The bottom cap slipped off with mild to moderate traction. The black top cap will neither rotate with respect to the white housing nor slide out from it. 

Aggressive traction I think will bend the bolts. I’ll get more aggressive if I know the top cap comes off the housing. Does it?  There are screws I removed that seem to indicate the cap would pop off/out. 

Tapping on base of motor: I’ve done gentle tapping. No movement. Might I damage motor by more aggressive tapping?

Of course I can disconnect and take off the boat and to town to search for a technician, but it would be so much easier to sort it here in the boat. 

Some photos below illustrate the situation. 

Many thanks in advance. 

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152. 
Tahiti
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net




servicing mainsail fuller and outhaul

ngtnewington Newington
 



I recently serviced both main furling and outhaul gears and motors. I found the aluminium shaft on the furling motor very difficult to remove. It was soaked 48  hours in diesel and then pressed out with a hydraulic press, but it took a lot of pressure.  Eventually it came free. Whilst the outhaul shaft came up and out with some gentle taps, being stainless steel! I think that this mast furler should be pulled apart more often to avoid the aluminium seizing in place, maybe every two years, just drop it, move the shaft up and down, check the gear box and lip seal. Alternatively have a stainless shaft made.

Fortunately I had a spare gear box on board as one was in very poor shape with bad corrosion on the aluminium. However all went well and both are back and fully functional with new shaft seals. Although I now do not have a spare aboard. Something that I would like to have if I go off the beaten track.

I decided to make a cover out of some PVC I had kicking around to protect the boom furling one from the elements, as shown in the pictures. There is a drain hole at the bottom of the GRP cover in case some water gets in. It is quite small maybe 8mm. It could be widened to say 12mm if required.

Has anyone tried this? If so was it a success or does it just deprive the gear box of ventilation?

Nick back in the UK with Amelia ashore in Leros, Greece

AML 54-019



Re: Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.

Germain Jean-Pierre
 

Hi Guys,

Michel, the owner of the chandlery at Marina Taina, can probably steer you to a competent electrician...

Good luck

Jean-Pierre Germain, Eleuthera, SM007, Opua, NZ


On 23 Sep 2020, at 15:58, Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:



Porter,

 

Sorry, I can’t help with your issue but, if in your hunt for a solution you happened to find a shop who repairs electric motors, please let me know. I have a couple of spares I would like to have serviced.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2020 3:33 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.

 

Dear Amelians: 

I beg any insight if you would. This is a 1.5 year old motor and housing from Amel for the main sail foil furling motor.  The last one, seal was damaged and the whole unit unsalvageable. This is a “new” 1.5 year old replacement. Now not working. Relays and switches all fine. Motor gotten progressively more “tired”  and now has stopped rotating. 

 

I have removed the base and look in and see no corrosion. But I think I need to remove the whole motor assembly from the housing which mean also removing the top cap. The bottom cap slipped off with mild to moderate traction. The black top cap will neither rotate with respect to the white housing nor slide out from it. 

 

Aggressive traction I think will bend the bolts. I’ll get more aggressive if I know the top cap comes off the housing. Does it?  There are screws I removed that seem to indicate the cap would pop off/out. 

 

Tapping on base of motor: I’ve done gentle tapping. No movement. Might I damage motor by more aggressive tapping?

 

Of course I can disconnect and take off the boat and to town to search for a technician, but it would be so much easier to sort it here in the boat. 

 

Some photos below illustrate the situation. 

 

Many thanks in advance. 

Porter McRoberts 

S/V IBIS A54-152. 

Tahiti

WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206

Www.fouribis.net

 

<image001.jpg>
<image002.jpg>
<image003.jpg>

 


Re: Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.

Mark Erdos
 

Porter,

 

Sorry, I can’t help with your issue but, if in your hunt for a solution you happened to find a shop who repairs electric motors, please let me know. I have a couple of spares I would like to have serviced.

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Porter McRoberts via groups.io
Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2020 3:33 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.

 

Dear Amelians: 

I beg any insight if you would. This is a 1.5 year old motor and housing from Amel for the main sail foil furling motor.  The last one, seal was damaged and the whole unit unsalvageable. This is a “new” 1.5 year old replacement. Now not working. Relays and switches all fine. Motor gotten progressively more “tired”  and now has stopped rotating. 

 

I have removed the base and look in and see no corrosion. But I think I need to remove the whole motor assembly from the housing which mean also removing the top cap. The bottom cap slipped off with mild to moderate traction. The black top cap will neither rotate with respect to the white housing nor slide out from it. 

 

Aggressive traction I think will bend the bolts. I’ll get more aggressive if I know the top cap comes off the housing. Does it?  There are screws I removed that seem to indicate the cap would pop off/out. 

 

Tapping on base of motor: I’ve done gentle tapping. No movement. Might I damage motor by more aggressive tapping?

 

Of course I can disconnect and take off the boat and to town to search for a technician, but it would be so much easier to sort it here in the boat. 

 

Some photos below illustrate the situation. 

 

Many thanks in advance. 

Porter McRoberts 

S/V IBIS A54-152. 

Tahiti

WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206

Www.fouribis.net

 

 


Canvassing for ideas: removing motor housing A54 “MAT” foiling motor.

Porter McRoberts
 

Dear Amelians: 
I beg any insight if you would. This is a 1.5 year old motor and housing from Amel for the main sail foil furling motor.  The last one, seal was damaged and the whole unit unsalvageable. This is a “new” 1.5 year old replacement. Now not working. Relays and switches all fine. Motor gotten progressively more “tired”  and now has stopped rotating. 

I have removed the base and look in and see no corrosion. But I think I need to remove the whole motor assembly from the housing which mean also removing the top cap. The bottom cap slipped off with mild to moderate traction. The black top cap will neither rotate with respect to the white housing nor slide out from it. 

Aggressive traction I think will bend the bolts. I’ll get more aggressive if I know the top cap comes off the housing. Does it?  There are screws I removed that seem to indicate the cap would pop off/out. 

Tapping on base of motor: I’ve done gentle tapping. No movement. Might I damage motor by more aggressive tapping?

Of course I can disconnect and take off the boat and to town to search for a technician, but it would be so much easier to sort it here in the boat. 

Some photos below illustrate the situation. 

Many thanks in advance. 

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS A54-152. 
Tahiti
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net




Re: Amel 55 hatch door cannot be locked from inside

Billy Newport
 

So I just un"blocked" it. Looking at the door from inside the boat. I moved the right hand sliding lock slightly to the left until the nub can be moved down. It's as if it's over too far or something and jamming the nub from moving down. As I moved the sliding lock to the left I pressed on the nub and suddenly after 1-2mm of lock bar going left, the nub went down and then it went back to normal. Go figure but I'll take it. So, the theory is somehow the right hand lock bar jammed the nub somehow. It's back to normal for now.

I tried removing that access panel but the nub prevents it from being removed and I didn't know whether to pull the nub off or unscrew it off etc so I couldn't remove the panel.


Re: deck leak

James Alton
 

Arno,. You are correct, the Divinycell won't rot if water gets in. For a boat with a teak deck that has fastener holes I would prefer the Divinycell since with that many holes water is going to get in.  I have been in the boat repair business for more than 40 years and I have dug out a lot of rotten plywood and balsa core and you are correct it is a huge nasty job to do right.  The Amel design thankfully has very few deck and cabin penetrations so it is not that big of a job to decore each and every hole, fill with epoxy, redrill and seal.  From that point forward if a fastener leaks the water cannot get into the core.  The increase in compressive strength of the balsa will create a more Ridgid structure and the increase in the bonding to the fiberglass skins (assuming the layup was done correctly) also adds strength.  So this means that with a weaker core you probably need to to build the boat a bit heavier to have the same strength.  Are the HR's heavier than a comparable Amel?  I have worked with the Divinycell on sailplanes and I will say that it the the best foam type core that I have worked with.  Some of the planes were 20 plus years old and the core was still healthy.  I have seen many other types of foam used for core material break down.   So to distill yes on a boat where I feel that I can keep the core dry, I would much prefer to have balsa core such as my Amel.  On a boat where there is a high probability of water intrusion such as a deck or cabin with a lot of screw holes, a non organic core such as Divinycell would be preferable.  Best to you.  

James Alton
SV Sueno
Maramu #220

On Sep 21, 2020 11:49 PM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
Hi James,

I'm aware of the differences between balsa and Divinycell, particularly the difference in adhesion to polyester. However Hallberg Rassy and many others have been using Divinycell since the eighties and correct me if I'm wrong, I've never heard of a soggy deck on a Halberg-Rassy. I used to own a 1992 model and the deck was solid, even with the gazillion holes because of the teak deck. Not that I would ever want a teak laid boat anymore, but that is another story. My previous boat had no teak deck but did carry a Divinycell cored deck and hull (above the waterline). Not a single problem manifested itself. I sold her when she was 16 years old.
The compression strength is something you can take into account when doing the structural calculations on the boat and should not be a problem.

So although there are some advantages to balsa I find it a poor choice for cored decks simply because water-ingress can be very hard to spot/monitor until it's at an advances state. There is a YouTube channel (Sail Life) that can illustrate the crazy amount of work it can be to rectify the problem once the balsa starts rotting.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121

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