Date   

Re: Galley fridge intermittently cooling

Mark Erdos
 

Thomas,

 

If you need a vacuum pump and gauges, I have a set. You know where to find me J

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Sv Garulfo
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2020 12:56 PM
To: Amel Yacht owners Group
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Galley fridge intermittently cooling

 

Hi all,

 

Our fridge evaporator seems to be partially and  intermittently cold. And the compressor runs but stops after a while. It had happened recently that the fridge stopped cooling but after a stop and start, i heard a hissing noise near the evaporator and it worked again for a few weeks. 

 

I searched this forum for contributions and found plenty around refilling the system with cooling gas, amongst other solutions that I will investigate. 

However, I was under the impression that there was a discussion about ice crystals clogging the evaporator circuit and some filter that could be changed. I cannot find that discussion though and may have dreamed it altogether...

 

Any advice on that front?

 

 

Thanks

Thomas 

A54-122

Moorea

 

 


Genoa furler

Rob Smith
 

Hi All
I'm just about to replace my forestay and need to 'drop' the Genoa furler.  Can someone please offer me advice on how to do it?
Regards Rob 
SY FORESIGHT 
SM #152


Re: Galley fridge intermittently cooling

Porter McRoberts
 

Thomas. 
Likely you can sort this yourself, but if not I have a soup to nuts Refrigerator guy here in Tahiti if you need one. 

Porter

Porter McRoberts 
S/V IBIS 
WhatsApp:+1 754 265 2206
Www.fouribis.net

On Sep 24, 2020, at 5:13 PM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi Thomas,

Ice crystals would occur if the filling of the system was not done properly. There is a filter in the system that binds any moisture that may be left at filling time. Normally they replace this filter when refilling. Once a system is working properly there is no interference with the atmosphere so moisture cannot enter. If the system is leaking you may see moisture enter the system after so much gas has escaped that at run-time the low pressure side gets below atmospheric pressure (depending on where the leak is). If you still have the original compressors (you can see this by looking at the way the speed control works). The newer units use a rotary switch if I'm correct. If you still run the originals chances are you have a gas leakage, most probably at the quick-fittings. These are the screw connectors that connect the evaporator to the compressor.
In my case the problem was a leaking heat-exchanger (the tube on top of the compressor) that rotted away due to the salt water in the circuit. In the end I replaced all the compressors.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: Galley fridge intermittently cooling

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Thomas,

Ice crystals would occur if the filling of the system was not done properly. There is a filter in the system that binds any moisture that may be left at filling time. Normally they replace this filter when refilling. Once a system is working properly there is no interference with the atmosphere so moisture cannot enter. If the system is leaking you may see moisture enter the system after so much gas has escaped that at run-time the low pressure side gets below atmospheric pressure (depending on where the leak is). If you still have the original compressors (you can see this by looking at the way the speed control works). The newer units use a rotary switch if I'm correct. If you still run the originals chances are you have a gas leakage, most probably at the quick-fittings. These are the screw connectors that connect the evaporator to the compressor.
In my case the problem was a leaking heat-exchanger (the tube on top of the compressor) that rotted away due to the salt water in the circuit. In the end I replaced all the compressors.

Regards,

Arno Luijten
SV Luna,
A54-121


Re: File /EX_MARINA.pdf uploaded #file-notice

eric freedman
 

Hi,
Is there more than one version of the Marina pump?
My pump has a cog wheel that drives the pump diaphragm.
I do not see it in this diagram.
Fair Winds,
Eric
Sm376 Kimberlite

On September 24, 2020 at 7:07 PM "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> wrote:

The following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io group.

By: Mark McGovern

Description:
AMFA Marina Electric Sump Pump Exploded Assembly Drawing with Bill of Materials; Now a TF Marine TM 50


 


Re: Galley fridge intermittently cooling

Mohammad Shirloo
 

Hi Thomas;

 

We had a similar situation last year. The controller on the compressor is equipped with an LED or a connection point that an LED can be connected to, so the unit will give you one of 4 or 5 error codes. I do not remember exactly as it was a while ago and I do not have all of my notes in front of me.

 

There is also a potentiometer (variable resistor) on the board that allows for selection of the compressor RPM. In our case, reducing the RPMs from max RPM of 3500 to 2000, fixed the issue for about a year. After that, the problem reoccurred and our investigation, along with a  trusted dealer in Corfu Greece, led to the conclusion that the compressor had failed an we ended up replacing the entire unit.

 

Lowering the RPMs has the effect of lowering the load on the compressor. So if the compressor is marginal, it will work for a while. The effect of lower RPM on the performance of the refrigerator, is the speed at which it cools the unit down to the desired temperature. Our unit was 11 years old at the time and we felt had provided an expected life for the product. This was the top load refrigerator in the galley that gets a lot of usage.

 

Happy Sailing;

 

 

Mohammad and Aty

B&B Kokomo

AMEL 54 #099

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Sv Garulfo via groups.io
Sent: Thursday, September 24, 2020 3:56 PM
To: Amel Yacht owners Group <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Galley fridge intermittently cooling

 

Hi all,

 

Our fridge evaporator seems to be partially and  intermittently cold. And the compressor runs but stops after a while. It had happened recently that the fridge stopped cooling but after a stop and start, i heard a hissing noise near the evaporator and it worked again for a few weeks. 

 

I searched this forum for contributions and found plenty around refilling the system with cooling gas, amongst other solutions that I will investigate. 

However, I was under the impression that there was a discussion about ice crystals clogging the evaporator circuit and some filter that could be changed. I cannot find that discussion though and may have dreamed it altogether...

 

Any advice on that front?

 

 

Thanks

Thomas 

A54-122

Moorea

 

 


File /EX_MARINA.pdf uploaded #file-notice

main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@...>
 

The following files have been uploaded to the Files area of the main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io group.

By: Mark McGovern

Description:
AMFA Marina Electric Sump Pump Exploded Assembly Drawing with Bill of Materials; Now a TF Marine TM 50


Re: converting 24v alternator to ribbed micro v (serpentine)

Alan Leslie
 

Hi Nick,
Whilst I agree serpentine belts are the ultimate for these applications, I would have to say that in 7 years we have had no issues with the twin belt setup on our Yanmar with Leece Neville 175A alternator - and we have an external regulator which means that the alternator works harder than a standard one.
I changed the belts 5 years ago, just because I thought I should, and we had only just noticeable dusting and never broken or worn out a belt.
In my previous experience, belt dusting and short belt life is caused by one or both of two things
1. Pulley misalignment
2, damaged V grooves in either or both pulleys - the groove sides must be absolutely smooth and clean.
and of course, incorrect belt tension.
A recommendation for belts I got from a local belts and transmission supplier, years ago, is to use Dayco / Carlisle raw edged cogged belts. They go around corners better and offer superior grip on the V pulleys than solid belts.
I have been using those belts on this boat and the previous one for  nearly 15 years with no issues ever.
An advantage to using the standard setup, on our boat anyway, is that all 3 belts on the front of the engine are the same size.
Cheers
Alan
ELYSE SM437


Galley fridge intermittently cooling

Sv Garulfo
 

Hi all,

Our fridge evaporator seems to be partially and  intermittently cold. And the compressor runs but stops after a while. It had happened recently that the fridge stopped cooling but after a stop and start, i heard a hissing noise near the evaporator and it worked again for a few weeks. 

I searched this forum for contributions and found plenty around refilling the system with cooling gas, amongst other solutions that I will investigate. 
However, I was under the impression that there was a discussion about ice crystals clogging the evaporator circuit and some filter that could be changed. I cannot find that discussion though and may have dreamed it altogether...

Any advice on that front?


Thanks
Thomas 
A54-122
Moorea



Re: Manual Bilge Pump

Mark McGovern
 

Re-attaching the exploded assembly drawing for the AMFA Marina/TF Marine TM 50 electric sump pump since it did not seem to attach to my previous post! 

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Manual Bilge Pump

Mark McGovern
 

Guillaume,

My AMFA Marina electric sump pump stopped working just this past weekend.  I removed it from the engine room and took it apart and found that one of the two (2) diaphragms inside has failed completely.  The pump is quite simple and easy to service.  I am going to make temporary replacements diaphragms out of a sheet of Neoprene in the short term. If they work well, I will just keep the temporary diaphragms in service.  I did find that TF Marine in Italy still makes and sells this pump as a  Model TM 50.  They also still make and sell spare parts for the pump.  I have attached the exploded assembly drawing for the pump to this message and below is the contact information for TF Marine:

TF MARINE SRL
Lucca – Italy
Tel & Fax: +39 0584 338238
website: www.tfmarine.it
email: info@...  

I hope you, your family,  and Carpathia III are well!

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Pasarelle / swim ladder SM

Alan Leslie
 

Many thanks Mark
Alan


Re: Pasarelle / swim ladder SM

Alan Leslie
 

Many Thanks Guillaume
Alam


Re: Turbo question

Mark McGovern
 

The rust is normal and the pitting does not look terrible.  The exhaust housing is made from cast iron so it will start the rust the second you stop cleaning it unless you coat it with something. I wouldn't worry about it as it certainly is not the cause of your reduced maximum engine RPM.

As long as the turbocharger shaft spins freely (at least a little bit) and if there is not excessive "play" in the shaft if you grab it with two fingers and try to move it laterally back and forth, then the turbocharger is probably fine.  This assumes that the compressor wheel on other side of the turbocharger is OK.

What did it look like before it was cleaned?  If it looked like Delos' turbocharger completely filled with coked up crud (shown below) than it probably was the culprit:

 
Also, what does the exhaust elbow look like?


--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA


Re: Turbo question

Rob Hughes
 

I think i found the cause of the corrosion on the turbo. this is the picture of our old exhaust elbow. we had replaced I think sea water was spraying in onto the inside of the turbo housing 


Re: Turbo question

eric freedman
 

Rob,
while you have the Turbo off, You might paint it with automotive exhaust header paint.
Once it is heated up it cured and you will never have a rusty turbo.
Fair Winds,
Eric
SM 376 Kimberlite

On September 24, 2020 at 2:49 PM Mark Erdos <mcerdos@...> wrote:

Rob,

 

The most concerning part of this picture is the fan. The fan should be clean and you should be able to flick it with your fingertip and watch it spin. If it doesn’t spin freely, the problem with your lack of getting RPM is indeed the turbo. You are probably also blowing out smoke as you increase the RPM with a damaged turbo.

 

You have just found out how expensive turbos are for a marine engine. Save your old one and hunt for an automotive turbo repair shop during your travels. They are common. The chances are it can easily be rebuilt for not much money (under $200).

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Rob Hughes via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2020 12:10 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Turbo question

 



This is my 6 yr old turbo from Volvo tamd22 after being cleaned. I have a loss of rpm only able to get 2200. Is this rust color normal? I'm wondering about all the pitting. I have a new turbo on order. Just want to see if I have another issue that needs addressing. And if anyone has pictures of their turbo after cleaning could you share that please.


 

 


Re: Turbo question

Mark Erdos
 

Rob,

 

The most concerning part of this picture is the fan. The fan should be clean and you should be able to flick it with your fingertip and watch it spin. If it doesn’t spin freely, the problem with your lack of getting RPM is indeed the turbo. You are probably also blowing out smoke as you increase the RPM with a damaged turbo.

 

You have just found out how expensive turbos are for a marine engine. Save your old one and hunt for an automotive turbo repair shop during your travels. They are common. The chances are it can easily be rebuilt for not much money (under $200).

 

 

 

 

With best regards,

 

Mark

 

Skipper

Sailing Vessel - Cream Puff - SM2K - #275

Currently cruising - Tahiti, French Polynesia

www.creampuff.us

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Rob Hughes via groups.io
Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2020 12:10 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Turbo question

 



This is my 6 yr old turbo from Volvo tamd22 after being cleaned. I have a loss of rpm only able to get 2200. Is this rust color normal? I'm wondering about all the pitting. I have a new turbo on order. Just want to see if I have another issue that needs addressing. And if anyone has pictures of their turbo after cleaning could you share that please.


Looking for late model SM 2000

Ben and Gayle Super Maramu #347
 

My wife and I are former SM owners who miss the life and our Amel.  We have been shopping for 50 foot plus boat for several months and nothing comes close to our Amel.  We're interested in late model SM 2000.  

Ben and Gayle Driver
formerly SM 2000 #347

 


Re: servicing mainsail fuller and outhaul

Scott SV Tengah
 

My "middle aged" A54 has the front cover that you guys reference. 

I drilled a few additional holes in the bottom of the rest of the cover. The original Amel setup has one small hole and when I opened up all of the covers to service the outhaul motor/gearbox, there was some water pooling.

I do believe that water can readily enter from the top near the shaft. Specifically if it runs down the outhaul rope track. When we give the boat a good freshwater wash, water definitely streams out of the holes I drilled.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com


Re: Amel 54 alternator belts

ngtnewington Newington
 

HI Barry,

The trick is to buy an off the shelf small pulley. I think that Leece-Neville only do the one I bought, because I looked at the Pulley options on their website.  The shaft on the 175 A alternator is imperial 7/8 inch so you cannot just buy any old pulley, and they have a funny keyway. Anyhow they are easy to buy on eBay USA.

The small pulley nut can be undone with a ring spanner and an 8mm alan key that slots into the alternator shaft end. I cut off a section of alan key and slotted it into a ratchet handle as it requires considerable force to remove. Like 100 ft lbs!

The big pulley is easy to take off, just undo the four bolts and gently prise it off. It has a male flange/hub that sets into the crank pulley about 3mm.  If you actually have the small pulley to give to the machine shop it sure makes it easy to explain what you want. 

If you are going Lithium, you will clearly need a special regulator for the alternator with a heat sensor so it does not overheat, and you should maybe think about ducting cooling air directly at the alternator.

I wish I could  go back to the boat and fit it all and make sure it all works well. My original set up had two idler pulleys one top and one bottom. This improves the wrap, however the belt has a slack side and a tight side, and I was always told to only add the idler to the slack side, if possible. So I experimented with the old set up removing the idler on the tight side  ( bottom one), to no real improvement. My current view is that without any idler the wrap is 160 degrees, and with the top idler only, which is the slack side, it will be a bit better at say 170 degrees. These are both very good wraps.

How to decide on the pulley you need

I went about it by seeing what pulley Leece-Neville could supply. This pretty much nailed it as the biggest they had was the K section 8 rib one.

Then I looked at various websites that sell high output alternator kits and conversions and cribbed the Micro v belts that were used, and looked at the size of drive pulleys they used.

Many of these alternators are running very small pulleys like 50mm,  the drive pulleys are typically 150mm.

So they get the 3:1ratio from 150mm drive pulley and 50mm alt pulley.

We are much better off as the 230mm pulley machines down to 200mm, and we need 3:1 so 67mm would do it. The one I bought is 69mm max diameter but 63.5mm across the grooves. If making from new one could have 230mm drive pulley and a 75mm alt pulley. But that would be expensive and frankly unnecessary.

There are two forces to consider; We are think the small pulley as there is never a problem with the big one.

1. Belt wrap, i.e. friction. This is how much belt is in contact with the pulley. So the circumference of the pulley  x the proportion of the pulley wrap. So 160 degrees wrap is 160/360 x 2 x 3.14 x radius

2. then there is the lever effect which is also the radius. Imagine the belt being your arm and the radius being the length of the wrench, a short wrench needs a stronger arm.

3. then there is the width of the belt, i.e. number of ribs. 6,8, 10 or even 12.

Clearly by going for smaller pulleys you add load on the belt. Not only from less surface area in contact with the pulley but also the shorter turning moment.

Looking at these web sites they all use serpentine (micro v belts) and either 6, 8 or 10 ribbed belts. 

Having decided that we are in the right ball park, and seeing as Leece-Neville sell that pulley a their top one I was happy with the engineering choice.

Then I thought it would be interesting to calculate how many KW such a belt would support;

Now I am not 100% sure, so any engineer who knows better please correct me but

by the tables I think that the 8 rib belt should be able to run 8 X 0.41KW assuming 120 degree wrap and a belt tension of 10kg per rib on a 45mm pulley.

That is 3280 Watts with a belt tension of 80Kg. However we have better wrap so could add 40% = 4592 watts. 

This is 170A  at 27v for a 45mm pulley, but we are running a 63.5mm pulley so the radius is increased from 22.5 to 31.5 which is another 40%. Which works out to 238A at 27v.

So in conclusion we could reduce the belt tension slightly by experiment. You want it so that it does not slip at maximum output. I intend to watch the belt, run the engine at say 1500 rpm and engage the bow thruster. If it does not slip then, reduce the tension slightly until you get slip then tighten it a bit. I have a Kriket tension gauge. I reckon it will be at about 75kg. Which is pretty tight, but the belt gates specs about 100kg.

It has been a fun project.

Nick (in the UK)

Amelia AML 54-019 in Leros.




On 24 Sep 2020, at 14:18, Barry Connor via groups.io <connor_barry@...> wrote:




Begin forwarded message:

From: Barry Connor <connor_barry@...>
Date: September 24, 2020 at 09:14:24 AST
To: ngtnewington@...
Subject: Re:  Amel 54 alternator belts

Hi again Nick,
Just wanted to add.
In my project changing to Lithium with Oliver on “Vela Nautica” help and guidance I was going to disconnect the engine alternator from the charging system.
Thanks to you I will now add the engine alternator back into the system with a charge controller for the Lithium batteries.
I have added the pulley and belt you showed to my Ebay buy list. Just got to find a machine shop here in very expensive Le Marin to machine the engine pulley.
Thanks and Very Best Regards

Barry and Penny
“SV Lady Penelope II”
Amel 54. #17
Sainte Anne anchorage Martinique


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