Date   

B & G Hydra 2000 Instruments blowing fuse in 24-12v converter

karkauai
 

Hi again everyone,
New problem I would like some help with.

The B & G instruments are not working due to the 8A fuse blowing in the 24-12V converter power supply under the nav station. It' a slow burn as it takes a minute or two to blow a new fuse.

The Chain Counter has never worked since I bought the boat. I'm not sure if it's a problem with the sensor or the display and haven't take the time to figure it out. The wind speed and boat speed, and depth indicators have had intermittent interruptions, also since I bought the boat. I've tightened all the connectors I can find in the past but the speedos & depth display still quit working intermittently, sometimes for a few minutes and sometimes for a few hours at a time. They don't all quit working at the same time, it seems to be an independent problem. I wondered if this could point to something that would diagnose my current problem (no pun intended (-: )

I've taken the panel off of the processor and found 24v coming into, pin 19. There is also 12 v coming into pins 17 & 18 when I put a new fuse in. I'm really confused by this duality of voltages coming into the processor and can't find anything in my B & G manual that helps my understanding. I assume that the sensors all send data to the processor, which in turn sends processed data to the displays at the helm and at the "remote" panel at the nav station where adjustments are made. I was thinking of disconnecting all sensors and guages and seeing if the processor alone blows the fuse. If so that seems it would indicate a problem with the processor or ? the power supply. Does that sound right? How would you differentiate between those two? If the fuse doesn't blow, then I'd add the sensors and guages one at a time to see when it blows, indicating that's where the problem lies. Am I on the right track?

Not being much of an electrician or electronics guy, I thought I'd ask how you would approach this in trying to narrow down where the problem lies. Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
Kent
1999 SM 243
KRISTY
Currently Brunswick, GA, USA


Re: C Drive Broken

karkauai
 

Hi everyone,
Just back to mainland (Brunswick, Georgia) after 1200nm sail from Puerto Rico. The newly repaired input shaft to the C-drive performed just fine, and in fact the engine sounds smoother than it has since I purchased Kristy 5 yrs ago. I also had new slightly softer polyurethane bushings installed at the "flexible" part of the Vetus coupling. I'm guessing that the shaft was failing ever since I bought her, even with the old Volvo. The repair cost less than $2000 US including shaft repair and labor. I don't know what a new shaft would have cost from Amel as the FR/Eng translation was less than ideal.

Hope no one else has to deal with this, and don't know what the cause was, but if you are changing out your engine or transmission, you might take a look at the shaft, especially where it steps down in size. I don't know if the problem would have been visible to the naked eye.

Thanks again for all your suggestions.
At least I learned that I can make the boat move toward my destination even in very light air. That's comforting as I've always cranked up the iron genny when ever the wind dropped below 5-8 kts or so.

Steady as she goes.
Kent

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Kent" <karkauai@...> wrote:

A few Photos of the broken and repaired input shaft of the Amel C drive have been uploaded to the Amel SM Transmission/C Drive album. Here's the link: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/805005311/pic/list


Re: [Amel] Re: Marina in the Med

Anne and John Hollamby <annejohnholl@...>
 

The marina called Porto Turistico, Marina di Ragusa is on the south coast of Sicily and is very safe and secure. They obviously have problems getting custom and so they do very special rates for over wintering and offer very good rates for the month preceding and following the winter period. My winter stay cost me about 1500 euros and staying on for an extra month costs me 360 euros. A month in the yacht club marina in Malta (70 miles south) would cost 1800 euros. As a result there were 20-30 live aboards there for the winter and there will be more next winter. their Email is
info at portoturisticodiragusa.it

Anne and John, Bali Hai, SM2K319

From: Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2012 7:27 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: Marina in the Med


Craig,

Thank you very much. I did not ask the question, but checked en.buscoamarre.com out and will certainly use this during the next two years.

Best,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "sv Sangaris" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Try a search on en.buscoamarre.com There are many listings from private slip owners, often with good prices.
Craig Briggs SN#68 SANGARIS

--- In mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com, "EdisonR" <roque@> wrote:
....
Could anyone give advice on a marina with reasonable price but well organised and secure in Ligurian Sea? ....

Roque
Atica, Amel 54




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] energy management on Amel 54

Dimitris Krassopoulos <dkra@...>
 

When in anchor 2-3 hours per day generator are sufficient. Sailing for 2
days you are going to use the engine for at least 1-2 hours per day unless
you have perfect condition which I doubt they can last for so long so in
calm or against the wind conditions you put on the engine and you charge
also the batteries and have hot water for your needs.



Dimitris

Amel 54

Alma Libre Too

www.almalibre.gr



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of lior 555
Sent: Friday, May 04, 2012 11:45 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] energy management on Amel 54





Hi

I am reading a lot about the Amel 54 and I have a question.
how does it work with the energy management on the Amel 54? I can not count
all the electric systems.
everything works with electricity but the only energy you have is the
generator and motor (or shore power).
If you sail for example for a few days with auto pilot, plotter, and all
the other electric systems, how many hours a day must the generator or
engine works?
And the same if you stay with anchor. Could anyone apply alternative energy
to the boat (solar panel, wind generator) and can it bring enough energy
for the boat?

thanks for your feedback
Lior, Maramu #155


[Amel] Re: Dessalinator model D50 50 l/h

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

H Jonas:

Regarding the timer flush system that I hooked up: I purchased one of these

http://prostores1.carrierzone.com/servlet/super-feed_com/-strse-96/DT-dsh-05-fdsh--24-Volt-AC/Detail

I hope that link will post. If not, just google "24 volt fish feeder timer" or something like that and you will come across some 24 volt 7 day timers. The one mentioned above was about $35.00 US. This one was rated at 16 amps and had an internal battery backup. Since I wasn't exactly sure of the current draw of the fresh water pump on my boat I hooked the output of the timer to a 28 volt relay that was rated at a much higher amperage. I don't have the specification of the relay, but it was about $15.00 US at the local chandlery and its contacts were rated at 50 amps or something like that. So the timer controls the relay, that regulates power to the fresh water pump. At any rate, in the area behind the 24 volt breaker panel is a terminal block with a cover for 24 volt power. I wired the timer to this source, I then cut the wire from the breaker for the fresh water pump and wired it through the contacts of the relay. The control coil of the relay is controlled by 24 volt power from the control contacts of the timer (ganged relays). (I will try and post a schematic of this wiring in the Dessalator photos folder). The timer has a switch for "On" or "Timer" mode. When aboard the boat, we place that switch in the ON position and the fresh water pump operates as normal with the pressure switch on the pump functioning as usual. When we leave the boat, we make sure the water tank is full, switch the flush valve on the water maker low pressure pump to the flush position, and set the timer to the TIMER mode. We program the timer to flush for 5 minutes every other or every third day. 5 minutes of flush every third day will use about 500 to 700 liters of fresh water in 6 months. Your results may vary and you should actually time and measure how much flush water will pass through your system by collecting and measuring how much water comes out the thru hull fitting on the port side of the hull. At the programmed time, the timer contacts close sending 24 volts to the relay coil. This causes the relay coil to actuate and the relay contacts close, sending 24 volt power to the fresh water pump, The pump actuates for 5 minutes, sending fresh water thru the water maker system (flushes the low pressure pump, the series of filters, the high pressure pump, the membranes and the plumbing of the control panel). It has worked for 5 years without fail. I have a small portable solar panel that I leave out when off the boat to trickle charge the batteries and this has always kept up with the energy needs of the brief run cycles of the pump.

My only concern was having to leave the main 24 volt power switches on the battery bank in the on position when I leave the boat. I do make sure that every other breaker on the boat is turned off, including (1) the breakers in the engine room, (2) forward cabin, (3) beneath the nav station, (4) in the hanging locker by the nav station, and (5) above the overhead of the quarter berth, (6) all the 24 volt panel breakers except the bilge pump and fresh water pump. A potential failure mode would be if the timer or ganged-relay failed in the "on" position. In that case the pump would actuate until the water tanks were empty and them might continue to run until pump failure or battery depletion. I have toyed with installing some sort of "run-on" sensor that would time out the system and turn it off if the pump ran too long. I just haven't gotten around to that yet.

To flush with the water maker on or off is an interesting discussion. I have always flushed with the water maker off except when I am flushing the entire sea-chest/manifold system when leaving the boat. In that case I put the hose from shore water source in to the sea-chest and turn the water maker on. I have yet to find a source of water strong enough to keep up with the water maker's need for water. I have to cycle the water maker on and off to prevent it from sucking air from the sea chest. I can see why flushing with the system running would give more through-put of flush water and thus do a more thorough flush, but having the high pressure pump cavitate with air is supposedly damaging to that pump. Perhaps you can keep up with the feed water needs of the lower capacity water maker using shore water to flush but I cannot.

Nice chatting with you Jonas. I will post an alert when I post the schematic of the timer modification in the photo's section.

Sincerely,

Gary Silver
Amel SM #335
s/v Liahona
Sint Maartin Dutch West Indies

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...> wrote:


Gary,
thank you for a fact oriented and short answer. I totally share your opinion regarding how to deal with the WM and was not aware of the Sodium meta-bisulfite. Have not used it and will probably not do it either. I am really interested in your automatic rinsing solution, could you please send some additional info regarding this, it will be most appreciated.
I think I have solved the major question regarding the rinsing, in the Amel manual for this boat it says that the Dessalator unit should be tunred off but in the official info from Dessalator it says that it should be on but without pressure(the D50 has no automatic rinsing function). Doing the rinsing with the unit on gave a much better quality of the produced water than having it off. We now produce water with approx. 250 PTS level(using a Com 100) which I think is ok.

Once again, thank you for a fast and very good answer!

All the best from a cloudy but warm island of Brac, Croatia

Jonas (Svanberg)
S/Y Lady Annila
SM # 232













[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Dessalinator model D50 50 l/h

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Hans-Joachim:

I am glad to hear that your water maker is working after such a prolonged period of disuse. Where was the boat located during the time the water maker was pickled? Ours was in the Caribbean and with the boat closed up, especially when it was on the hard during hurricane season the temperatures in the boat become really high. I believe the extremely high temps in combination with the sodium meta-bisulfite accelerated the corrosive effects. If you look in the pictures section of this forum under Dessalator (about the 4th page of pictures) you will see the interconnect bobbin from our membranes that shows the type of corrosion I am speaking of. Additionally, our low pressure water pump suffered extensive intergranular corrosion of the shaft and had to be replaced. None of this showed up as a failure of the system but was discovered during routine maintenance. Since ceasing to use the sodium meta-bisulfite we have seen no further symptoms like this.

Thanks for sharing your experience.

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona SM #335
Oyster Pond Marina, Sint Maarten

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Hans-Joachim" <Dr.Hofschulte@...> wrote:

Hallo friends,
I would like to tell you about our expirience with the watermaker Duo 60 from dessalinator.
The wm was pickled for 7 ( seven ) years with sodium meta-bisulfite - no corrosion , nothing was destroyed- . We start the wm after seven years. We flush for 15 minutes with fresh water and then we start
carefully producing water. We run the wm for 2 hours and the quality of the water was really good. I tasted the water and I am still alive.

Greetings to all of you.

Hans-Joachim SM #436 Lisboa


Dessalinator model D50 50 l/h

dr_hofschulte
 

Hallo friends,
I would like to tell you about our expirience with the watermaker Duo 60 from dessalinator.
The wm was pickled for 7 ( seven ) years with sodium meta-bisulfite - no corrosion , nothing was destroyed- . We start the wm after seven years. We flush for 15 minutes with fresh water and then we start
carefully producing water. We run the wm for 2 hours and the quality of the water was really good. I tasted the water and I am still alive.

Greetings to all of you.

Hans-Joachim SM #436 Lisboa


Re: Dessalinator model D50 50 l/h

dr_hofschulte
 

Hallo friends,

I would like to tell you about our expirience with the watermaker Duo 60
from dessalinator.

The wm was pickled for 7 ( seven ) years with sodium meta-bisulfite - no
corrosion , nothing was destroyed- . We start the wm after seven years
sleeping. We flush for 15 minutes with fresh water and then we start

carefully producing water. We run the wm for 2 hours and the quality of the
water was really good. I tasted the water and I am still alive.



Greetings to all of you.



Hans-Joachim SM #436 Lisboa


Re: Marina in the Med

Judy and Bill aboard SV BeBe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Craig,

Thank you very much. I did not ask the question, but checked en.buscoamarre.com out and will certainly use this during the next two years.

Best,

Bill
BeBe, SM2k, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "sv Sangaris" <sangaris@...> wrote:

Try a search on en.buscoamarre.com There are many listings from private slip owners, often with good prices.
Craig Briggs SN#68 SANGARIS

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "EdisonR" <roque@> wrote:
....
Could anyone give advice on a marina with reasonable price but well organised and secure in Ligurian Sea? ....

Roque
Atica, Amel 54


Re: [Amel] fuel tank maramu #261 1989

David Wallace
 

Ross, we installed an inspection port without moving the tank at all with no problem. After you remove the wood on top, unless your tank is taller than ours, there's about 16" of clearance under the overhead. Incidentally, we installed a port in the very forward end, the section where the fuel is drawn from, and the tank/fuel was so clean that we didn't add anymore ports.

Dave,
s/v Air Ops
Maramu #104

On May 7, 2012, at 8:30 AM, rossny@ymail.com wrote:

Hello,
Has anyone removed the fuel tank from an old maramu? Will it fit past the navigation desk and then up through the hatch ? What will I have to remove? I want to cut in
Inspection ports and as you know there is limited room to work above the installed tank.
Thank you,
Ross


Re: [Amel] fuel tank maramu #261 1989

Richard03801 <richard03801@...>
 

Hi it would be best to use dual Racor mod. 500 And perhaps a Delco Ele fuel pump.

Regarding the inspection ports and screws. Spray to fastener wit T9 before installing also be very sure to do a very good sealing job with a sealer the will work with oil gas.



Regards

Richard Piller

Cell 603 767 5330

On May 7, 2012, at 16:59, "Dave_Benjamin" <dave_benjamin@yahoo.com> wrote:

Ross,

I don't think the tank is monel unless they switched to that in later hulls.
Dual selectable Racor is a must. That way you can switch to the other filter while you change a clogged one. You may recall from seeing ours that we have a gauge on it so you can see a problem developing.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "rossny@..." <rossny@...> wrote:

Thanks Joel,
Yes, that sounds better than total removal. The survey says that the tank material is monel, would I use stainless or aluminum for the hatchs on this most noble metal?
Also ....is the dual switching racor best or the regular single racor acceptable?
Thank you, ross

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@> wrote:

Hi Ross. From memory, I think that on your year Maramu, you cannot remove
the tank without cutting it in smaller pieces. I have put inspection plates
in Maramu's just by tilting the top part on the tank inboard allowing access
to cut in the ports and do the required installations. I used a very
powerful shop vac to catch 90% of the cutting residue. The dual Racors I am
sure you will install will catch all of the rest that falls inside the tank.

Be sure to take a real good look at the tank bottom, inside and out, as this
is where trouble starts as the tanks get older and more water/condensation
finds its way to the bottom of the tank.



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: <mailto:jfpottercys@> jfpottercys@





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] fuel tank maramu #261 1989

Dave_Benjamin
 

Ross,

I don't think the tank is monel unless they switched to that in later hulls.
Dual selectable Racor is a must. That way you can switch to the other filter while you change a clogged one. You may recall from seeing ours that we have a gauge on it so you can see a problem developing.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "rossny@..." <rossny@...> wrote:

Thanks Joel,
Yes, that sounds better than total removal. The survey says that the tank material is monel, would I use stainless or aluminum for the hatchs on this most noble metal?
Also ....is the dual switching racor best or the regular single racor acceptable?
Thank you, ross

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@> wrote:

Hi Ross. From memory, I think that on your year Maramu, you cannot remove
the tank without cutting it in smaller pieces. I have put inspection plates
in Maramu's just by tilting the top part on the tank inboard allowing access
to cut in the ports and do the required installations. I used a very
powerful shop vac to catch 90% of the cutting residue. The dual Racors I am
sure you will install will catch all of the rest that falls inside the tank.

Be sure to take a real good look at the tank bottom, inside and out, as this
is where trouble starts as the tanks get older and more water/condensation
finds its way to the bottom of the tank.



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: <mailto:jfpottercys@> jfpottercys@





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


maramu1989 waste bilge pump

rossny@mail.com
 

Hi, the current pump is a jabsco #59090-0012 with 1 1/2" in and out. The 1 1/2" is adapted to the 1" hose that looks original. What.was the original pump? Is there a recommended 1" waste pump? Or do I replace with the 1 1/2" and re-adapt?
What did you guys do?
Thanks again and again ....
ross


Re: [Amel] fuel tank maramu #261 1989

rossny@mail.com
 

Thanks Joel,
Yes, that sounds better than total removal. The survey says that the tank material is monel, would I use stainless or aluminum for the hatchs on this most noble metal?
Also ....is the dual switching racor best or the regular single racor acceptable?
Thank you, ross

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F Potter" <jfpottercys@...> wrote:

Hi Ross. From memory, I think that on your year Maramu, you cannot remove
the tank without cutting it in smaller pieces. I have put inspection plates
in Maramu's just by tilting the top part on the tank inboard allowing access
to cut in the ports and do the required installations. I used a very
powerful shop vac to catch 90% of the cutting residue. The dual Racors I am
sure you will install will catch all of the rest that falls inside the tank.

Be sure to take a real good look at the tank bottom, inside and out, as this
is where trouble starts as the tanks get older and more water/condensation
finds its way to the bottom of the tank.



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: <mailto:jfpottercys@...> jfpottercys@...





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Marina in the Med

Craig Briggs
 

Try a search on en.buscoamarre.com There are many listings from private slip owners, often with good prices.
Craig Briggs SN#68 SANGARIS

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "EdisonR" <roque@...> wrote:
....
Could anyone give advice on a marina with reasonable price but well organised and secure in Ligurian Sea? ....

Roque
Atica, Amel 54


Re: [Amel] fuel tank maramu #261 1989

amelforme
 

Hi Ross. From memory, I think that on your year Maramu, you cannot remove
the tank without cutting it in smaller pieces. I have put inspection plates
in Maramu's just by tilting the top part on the tank inboard allowing access
to cut in the ports and do the required installations. I used a very
powerful shop vac to catch 90% of the cutting residue. The dual Racors I am
sure you will install will catch all of the rest that falls inside the tank.

Be sure to take a real good look at the tank bottom, inside and out, as this
is where trouble starts as the tanks get older and more water/condensation
finds its way to the bottom of the tank.



All the best,

Joel





Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist, LLC

Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas

Mailing Address: 401 East Las Olas Boulevard #130-126

Fort Lauderdale, Florida 33301

Phone: (954) 462-5869 Cell: (954) 812-2485

Email: <mailto:jfpottercys@att.net> jfpottercys@att.net


fuel tank maramu #261 1989

rossny@mail.com
 

Hello,
Has anyone removed the fuel tank from an old maramu? Will it fit past the navigation desk and then up through the hatch ? What will I have to remove? I want to cut in
Inspection ports and as you know there is limited room to work above the installed tank.
Thank you,
Ross


Re: [Amel] Re: Dessalinator model D50 50 l/h

Ann-Sofie Svanberg <kanalmamman@...>
 

Gary,
thank you for a fact oriented and short answer. I totally share your opinion regarding how to deal with the WM and was not aware of the Sodium meta-bisulfite. Have not used it and will probably not do it either. I am really interested in your automatic rinsing solution, could you please send some additional info regarding this, it will be most appreciated.
I think I have solved the major question regarding the rinsing, in the Amel manual for this boat it says that the Dessalator unit should be tunred off but in the official info from Dessalator it says that it should be on but without pressure(the D50 has no automatic rinsing function). Doing the rinsing with the unit on gave a much better quality of the produced water than having it off. We now produce water with approx. 250 PTS level(using a Com 100) which I think is ok.

Once again, thank you for a fast and very good answer!

All the best from a cloudy but warm island of Brac, Croatia

Jonas (Svanberg)
S/Y Lady Annila
SM # 232













[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: energy management on Amel 54

Dimitris Krassopoulos <dkra@...>
 

Dear All,



I was surprised but the energy management on the Amel 54 is much better than
the SM2000. The refrigerators are water cooled and the lights are led so the
electric consumption is much lower than on the SM. With 1 hour of generator
with the 100 amp charger you are around 95% of the batteries with 3 hours of
sailing per day. One problem is the jot water if you want to have frequent
baths you have to use more the generator or motor 1-2 hours per day. I
Greece the distance between the islands is 30 nm max so all above mentioned
is feasible.



Best Regards



Dimitris

Alma Libre Too

Amel 54

www.almalibre.gr



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of jjjk12s
Sent: Sunday, May 06, 2012 12:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel] Re: energy management on Amel 54





Lior,

Hopefullly this link will work

http://www.foxsmarina.com/blog/?tag=amel-54

It shows davits, solar and wind installation on Amel 54 Cadaceus done at
Fox's which is the main home of Oyster yachts and where they are
commisioned. Their standard of workmanship is very high and gives an idea of
what can be done, even if some would not like the design...

John Maramu #91 Popeye

--- In <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, lior 555 < <mailto:lior246@...>
lior246@...> wrote:

Hi

I am reading a lot about the Amel 54 and I have a question.
how does it work with the energy management on the Amel 54? I can not
count
all the electric systems.
everything works with electricity but the only energy you have is the
generator and motor (or shore power).
If you sail for example for a few days with auto pilot, plotter, and all
the other electric systems, how many hours a day must the generator or
engine works?
And the same if you stay with anchor. Could anyone apply alternative
energy
to the boat (solar panel, wind generator) and can it bring enough energy
for the boat?

thanks for your feedback
Lior, Maramu #155




Re: Dessalinator model D50 50 l/h

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

I have written a manual of sorts for the 160 l/h system. It is posted in the files section of this forum in a folder about Dessalator. The basic principals of the process are the same for all water makers. Sea water comes in via the sea chest, is fed by a low pressure feed pump to the high pressure pump that boost the pressure to 1,500 psi or there about to feed the membranes. The reverse osmosis just runs normal osmosis backwards by apply high pressure to the sea water side of the semi-permiable membranes. Everything else in the system is to control the pumps, control the high pressure, and divert or accept the product water.

The best way to care for your membranes is as follows:
1. Filter all water you use to flush the filters. Either plumb in a carbon block filter or use a carbon block hose end filter for any water you take on from shore. Make sure your membranes never see any chlorine. Chlorine will kill your membranes.
2. Make water frequently, daily is the best. The membranes love to be used.
3. Change the pre-filters frequently, as soon as you see a significant drop in the feed water pressure, the pre-filters are saturated and need to be changed.
4. Flush the membranes with fresh (non-chlorine containing) water after each water making session and every few days when the system isn't being used. (An automatic timer/flush system only cost $75.00 US to rig and 700 liters of flush water will flush the membranes every other day for 5 minutes for 6 months). I can provide details if needed.
5. Do NOT pickle your system with sodium meta-bisulfite. It is high corrosive and wild destroy things in your water maker.
6. An occasional sanitization of your system with sodium meta-bisulfite MAY be beneficial to prevent marine growth in the system, but is in no way required, especially if you make water frequently and flush with fresh water.

A review of post 8124 or search re; " membranes" will yield much additional information

All the best,

Gary Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel Sm #335
Lying Sint Maarten

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "ladyannila" <kanalmamman@...> wrote:

Hi
Is there anyone that have a manual for that model? Preferable in english :)

Or, more specific how to rinse the filter properly.

We changed our membrans in 2010 and they are not working properly and we suspect that we are doing something wrong.

We can't find any instructions nor in the documents from Amel nor on Dessalator.com.

Fair Winds
S/Y Lady Annila SM 232
present in Croatia.