Date   
Furuno “Loss of GPS”/DOP Error alarm and AIS help

tony wells
 
Edited

Hi All

Grateful for your thoughts:

1. My 2008 A54 #102 has the Furuno GPS Navigator GP-150. It’s recently started sounding an intermittent No GPS alarm and, more frequently, a DOP Error alarm. It self tests fine. In Alarm settings I’ve selected OFF for the GPS alarm. I have selected RAIM OFF. I have tried to smooth the fixes by selecting a long interval. I’ve selected 3D/2D instead of 2D because the DOP threshold is (counter-intuitively?) less sensitive. But No GPS or DOP Error alarms still sound when underway. Sometimes several times in a few minutes and then, as I say, after an interval of over 30 minutes for just one time. In the port currently, 5-8 satellites are showing. 

I’m replacing all the Nav this winter but would like the equipment to work on passage tomorrow from Kefalonia to Malta via Sicily (320Nm). If I turn the GPS Navigator off (and use papercharts and iPad) then the Furuno auto pilot No Speed alarm sounds (despite me switching off that Alarm on the Autopilot!). 

One thought (credit Bill Rouse, thanks) is UV damage to the GPS antenna (in presumably usual location starboard side cockpit under hard Bimini roof). Any other thoughts / straightforward Autopilot workarounds please? 

2. AIS. I have Furuno Navnet vx2 at the Nav station. There does not appear to be an AIS option despite the boat having a receiver. It seems AIS vessels were only displayed on the helm repeater (not the Nav station plotter where there is no AIS option) but this plotter has ‘frozen’ and does not show current position regardless of repeated reconnection. I have tried Corrosion X in the terminals. Any thoughts on why this may not be working or can anyone tell me how to display AIS at the Nav station plotter please? 

UPDATE: Corrosion X has now solved the problem. Nav AIS working too. Still grateful for any help on Point 1 re GPS/DOP Error alarms please 



Thanks very much!

Tony Wells
A54 #102 Argostoli,
Kefalonia, Greece

Re: Free or Tie-on the steering wheel

 

image.png

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Thu, Sep 19, 2019 at 2:56 AM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:
Hi Pat 
You’re absolutely right. It’s not a good Idea. 
I tried have done it also with flex bungee cables. In some place it works well. Not much shock on the cables. Sometimes I had it too loose so the rudder was moving. 
Thanks Danny and Paul for your advice. 
Best regards
Ruedi 
WASABI A54-55

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 18. September 2019 um 20:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Free or Tie-on the steering wheel

Ruedi, I would advise against securing the quadrant ,in the event of an emergency a boat should be ready to move immediately . Having to leave the cockpit and go down to the aft stateroom ,lift the bed and untie the quadrant sounds like a bad idea.
I have a small stainless hook secured to the bulkhead about six inches below the wheel ,I use a black rubber bungee with hooks on the ends , I put those hooks over two of  the spokes on the wheel and the bungee under the hook. This allows a very little bit of play, but 99 % a the time no movement at all and we live on a mooring. I can unsecure the wheel in one second if need be.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigan


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Wed, Sep 18, 2019 2:03 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Free or Tie-on the steering wheel

Hi Ruedi, if the wheel is tied tight and there is clonking it is possible your steering cables need adjustment. Easy to do where they are mounted by the quadrant. Just like adjusting cables on a bicycle.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 19 September 2019 at 00:19 "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi Ruedi,
The best is to fix it, but if you fix it it MUST be without any gap (possibility that the rude can move) ... else do not fix it ...
JLMERTZ
CottonBay


Le 18/09/2019 à 11:52, Rudolf Waldispuehl a écrit :
Dear Amel'ias

I’m curious about experience with tie on the steering wheel and maybe someone has a proven technical answer. 
When I’m on Anchor or in a Marina I always fix/tie the steering wheel in the cockpit with a rope. After this summer in many anchorages with some swell I was not sure anymore if these is the right solution. 
 
Always when small waves hitting the rudder the wheel tried to turn in one or other direction and there is a noticeable noise (little dong) on the cables. 
When I was loosing the rope then the noise was notable under the aft bed because the Autopilot linear drive gear is moving and made noise.   
I’m now quite unsecure which option is the better, -  fix the wheel or let it move around?  Both ways are working on either AP Linear drive and/or steering cables. 
 
Would be the best option to make a fix/tie on the rudder quadrant to stop moving? Has someone done it?
What is your experience and long-term observations? 
 
Thanks for your thought and best regards
Ruedi
SY-WASABI 
AMEL 54#55

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com

 

 

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

Mark McGovern
 

Bill,

I think some of the confusion has actually come from Amel.  Alan Grayson of Ora Pai (SM #406) recently rebuilt his Main Furler Assembly with parts from Amel.  They sent him a parts list that showed that one of the lip seals was 45mm ID x 58mm OD x 7mm Width.  However, the drawing that they also sent him showed that seal size was 45mm ID x 60mm OD x 7mm Width.  In addition, the seal that he removed from his Main Furler Assembly was 45mm ID x 60mm OD x 7mm Width.  This also matches the seal that I removed from Cara (SM #440).  So it is likely that the correct size is 45mm ID x 60mm OD x 7mm Width.  However, this does not mean that some Amels might not have a different size seal.  I think it is best for each owner to complete the tear down of the Main Furler Assembly and check/measure for themselves to be sure that they get the correct parts.  Obviously, that will cause some delay in getting the assembly back together and re-installed on the boat but oil seals, bearings and o-rings are all common items that are relatively easily sourced quickly and cheaply most anywhere.

Regarding what I found on Cara, there are four (4) seals in total in the Main Furler Assembly.  Three of them are standard lip seals also called oil seals or rotary shaft seals.  These are the kind of seals that we use for the C-Drive output shaft and the Bowthruster tunnel.  They are made from a combination of some kind of rubber and steel and have a garter spring.  The sizes of the lip seals that were installed in my Main Furler Assembly were as follows:

1 x 45mm ID x 60mm OD x 7mm Width
1 x 25mm ID x 33mm OD x 6mm Width
1 x 30mm ID x 40mm OD x 7mm Width

These seals are all designed and installed to keep the grease INSIDE the Main Furler assembly.  

The fourth seal is different.  It is a V-Ring seal that sits outside on top of the Main Furler assembly.  It's main purpose appears to be keeping contaminants OUT of the Main Furler.  I found this explanation of these types of seals here https://www.allsealsinc.com/v-rings.html

V-Ring Seal Size:
1 x VA-45 (or VA-045) V-ring Seal:  40mm ID x 50mm OD x 9mm Width.  I ordered SKF Part # 400450.

Like I said in my previous post, once I have confirmed that everything that I have ordered to complete the rebuild of my Main Furler assembly is correct and everything installs properly, I will make a comprehensive post of the parts that I used as well as my parts sources here.

Thanks,
Mark 



--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

Mike Ondra
 

Hi Bill, 
On our vessels we have several locations where there are lip seals in the horizontal position in exposed areas like what Mark found and the furling gearboxes. If the seal is slightly below the elevation of the gearbox surface it will tend to collect water. What do you think of going with a thicker, for example 8 versus 7 mm, Lip seal and inserting it such that it is slightly above the surrounding metal surface. In that way it will be less prone to collect water.
Mike Ondra
Aletes SM#240

On Sep 19, 2019, at 7:34 AM, Mike Ondra <mdondra@...> wrote:

I never thought of checking this one. Perhaps this could be a project for boat show weekend.


Begin forwarded message:

From: "CW Bill Rouse" <brouse@...>
Date: September 18, 2019 at 8:06:12 PM EDT
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue
Reply-To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io

Mark,

There has been some information out here that the seal is VA45mmX60mmX7mm Seal  OR 45mmX58mmX7mm. The middle dimension is the shaft size. I know for a fact that Amel 54 #69 had a 58mm shaft. One SM owner recorded his as 60mm, but was not 100% sure.

Can you verify this issue?

Your advice certainly applies to all Santorins, Super Maramus, and 54s. 

Bill

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Wed, Sep 18, 2019 at 5:43 PM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:
Just a friendly reminder to my fellow Amel owners to do a regular check on the shaft seal that sits over the main furler cylinder.  It's the one circled in RED in the picture below:
<IMG_20190914_173447296_HDR.jpg>

I would advise you have look at it ASAP and put it on your annual maintenance list to at least inspect it's condition and if it's at all questionable, replace it.  It costs less than $5 to buy a new one but could end up costing you hundreds of $ or more if it fails and you destroy the gears.  Don't be like me and wait until your main furler seizes before you check it!

Here is a picture of my seal.  It actually has a split in it so I use the term "seal" loosely:



I can confirm that it is a VA-45 or VA-045 V-ring Seal as you can faintly see "VA 45" molded into the rubber in the upper left side of the picture. 

The failed seal has allowed saltwater, rainwater and dirt to enter the furler cylinder for some time now and it eventually destroyed the tapered roller bearing that sits at the top of the the shaft.  Here is what my bearing looked like when I got it off the shaft AFTER I cleaned it up:

<Tapered Roller Bearing Cover 01-1.png>



Needless to say the bearing is completely destroyed.  Obviously this did not happen overnight but has been going on for a long time.  I've owned my boat for just over two years now and surprisingly the main furler has worked almost all of the time.  It did pop a breaker now and again but I attributed that to the motor brushes being old and worn and all the carbon dust that was inside the motor when I took it apart this spring to clean and change the brushes.  I'm sure that the worn brushes and carbon dust did not help things, but the main culprit was clearly the corroded roller bearing caused by the failed V-ring Seal.  

I would highly recommend that you have look at your furler seal now and inspect it on regular basis.  If you find it cracked, damaged or missing I suggest that you take the furler assembly down and open it up, clean the inside and inspect the bearing as well as the other ball bearing, three lip seals, and two o-rings that are inside.  It does not take that long nor require any special tools to do this tear down and inspection.  If you do need to change bearings, a bearing puller certainly makes the job easier.

Thanks to Duane (Wanderer) and Pat (Shenanigans) and others on this forum for some excellent pictures, part numbers and sources for replacement parts.  Some if the information is spread around a bit here so once I am sure that I have all of the correct information regarding all the replacement parts that I needed to do the rebuild I will make another post here to try to get it all in one place.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Annapolis Boat Show

VLADIMIR SONSEV
 

I regret that we can't make it.
We will be in Europe.
Have a great time!

Vladimir and Marina
S/V Life is Good
SM 345

On Thu, Sep 19, 2019, 8:13 AM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
I was able to reserve a table for ten at Mangia's Italian Grill ,81 Main St. across from the show , for 6:30 pm on Friday ,Oct. 11 . 
Those attending are: 
Matt & Cindy ,Speed of Light A50
Scott & ? ,Tengah A54
Mike & Tom, Aletes SM
Pat & Diane ,Shenanigans SM
Kent, Kristy SM
Bill & Karen, Harmonie SM

We Look forward to seeing you all there,
Pat & Diane,
SV Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Mon, Sep 9, 2019 8:00 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show

Kent, Too bad Iris can't make it ,but will see you there. I will make reservations ,if they take it for 6:30 ,looks like eight now ,I will wait to later this week to see if anyone else wants to join us.
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai=yahoo.com@groups.io>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Sep 8, 2019 7:11 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show

I will be there, too.  Iris is working a special event and can’t come.
Looking forward to seeing everyone.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Sep 8, 2019, at 8:41 AM, Mike Ondra via Groups.Io <mdondra@...> wrote:

Sounds good, Pat. Magnia Friday night and you had put 6:30 on the table.
Seems a number of us will be on Back Creek so let’s see if there is interest in dinner at Davis’ on Thursday evening.
Mike
Aletes SM#240
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, September 8, 2019 7:47 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show
 
Mike, Assuming everyone will be at the show, Mangia's is very convenient , right across the street from the show,a two minute walk. Its also a very nice place with great food , it also would not require people to somehow travel to Back Creek as the show is letting out.
Hope to see ya there,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Ondra via Groups.Io <mdondra@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Sep 7, 2019 5:50 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show
Hi Pat. Tom and I hope to be there Thursday and Friday. A nice dinner place on Back Creek would be Davis’s Pub which a block from Mears Marina. May avoid some of the downtown hubbub. Rustic, good food and popular with the locals even during the week so reservations may be appropriate if they do them. Maybe both Thursday and Friday night Especially if Friday doesn’t work for some. Just a thought.
Mike
Aletes SM240

On Sep 7, 2019, at 6:55 AM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...> wrote:
Kent ,would Friday about 6:30 work for you & Iris.
Pat
SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Sep 6, 2019 7:02 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show
Hi Pat,
Tell us when and where, I will be there, Iris may be able to come too.
Kent
SN243/Kristy
.
On Sep 6, 2019, at 9:49 AM, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:
Speed of Life
Amel 50, #27
~~~️~~~Matt

On Sep 6, 2019, at 9:36 AM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...> wrote:
Matt, Ok thats one vote for Fri. What is the name/model of your boat ?
Pat 
SM #123

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Sep 6, 2019 8:49 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show
Cindy and I are driving in for the entire show. We have a previous engagement on Saturday, October 12, but Friday would be good.......
~~~️~~~Matt

On Sep 6, 2019, at 8:12 AM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...> wrote:
Diane and I will be sailing to the boat show this year, as we have for the last 35 yrs. We would be anchored in the main anchorage and would invite everyone out to the boat for drinks and pizza and we could do that. But it may be more convenient to meet at a local restaurant across the street from the show. Mangia Italian Grill has great pizza ,etc. and is only about 100 ft. from the show. Friday or Sat. about 6:30 would work for us ,Sat. may be busier . If anyone would be interested, lets get a head count .
Seya There,
Pat & Diane,
SV Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Sep 5, 2019 9:29 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show
Iris and I will be driving over to Annapolis for the show.  If there’s a get-together for dinner and/or drinks, we’d like to join in.
Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy SM243
St Michaels, MD

On Sep 4, 2019, at 10:23 AM, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:
Mike,

No problem.  JL Mertz's Speedi-Sleeve idea is a good one too as the surface finish on the shaft is really not good enough to ensure a good seal with the oil seal. 

Regarding the Annapolis Boat Show, we will definitely be at the show but we are not sure if we will taking Cara or just driving.  It's such a zoo around there at that time and we can't take the days off work to get there early enough to be ensured of a decent anchoring spot.  Definitely let me know what the plans are as they develop!

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Annapolis Boat Show

Patrick McAneny
 

I was able to reserve a table for ten at Mangia's Italian Grill ,81 Main St. across from the show , for 6:30 pm on Friday ,Oct. 11 . 
Those attending are: 
Matt & Cindy ,Speed of Light A50
Scott & ? ,Tengah A54
Mike & Tom, Aletes SM
Pat & Diane ,Shenanigans SM
Kent, Kristy SM
Bill & Karen, Harmonie SM

We Look forward to seeing you all there,
Pat & Diane,
SV Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Mon, Sep 9, 2019 8:00 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show

Kent, Too bad Iris can't make it ,but will see you there. I will make reservations ,if they take it for 6:30 ,looks like eight now ,I will wait to later this week to see if anyone else wants to join us.
Pat
SM Shenanigans


-----Original Message-----
From: karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sun, Sep 8, 2019 7:11 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show

I will be there, too.  Iris is working a special event and can’t come.
Looking forward to seeing everyone.

Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy
USA cell: 828-234-6819

On Sep 8, 2019, at 8:41 AM, Mike Ondra via Groups.Io <mdondra@...> wrote:

Sounds good, Pat. Magnia Friday night and you had put 6:30 on the table.
Seems a number of us will be on Back Creek so let’s see if there is interest in dinner at Davis’ on Thursday evening.
Mike
Aletes SM#240
 
From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io
Sent: Sunday, September 8, 2019 7:47 AM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show
 
Mike, Assuming everyone will be at the show, Mangia's is very convenient , right across the street from the show,a two minute walk. Its also a very nice place with great food , it also would not require people to somehow travel to Back Creek as the show is letting out.
Hope to see ya there,
Pat
SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Ondra via Groups.Io <mdondra@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Sat, Sep 7, 2019 5:50 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show
Hi Pat. Tom and I hope to be there Thursday and Friday. A nice dinner place on Back Creek would be Davis’s Pub which a block from Mears Marina. May avoid some of the downtown hubbub. Rustic, good food and popular with the locals even during the week so reservations may be appropriate if they do them. Maybe both Thursday and Friday night Especially if Friday doesn’t work for some. Just a thought.
Mike
Aletes SM240

On Sep 7, 2019, at 6:55 AM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...> wrote:
Kent ,would Friday about 6:30 work for you & Iris.
Pat
SM Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Sep 6, 2019 7:02 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show
Hi Pat,
Tell us when and where, I will be there, Iris may be able to come too.
Kent
SN243/Kristy
.
On Sep 6, 2019, at 9:49 AM, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:
Speed of Life
Amel 50, #27
~~~️~~~Matt

On Sep 6, 2019, at 9:36 AM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...> wrote:
Matt, Ok thats one vote for Fri. What is the name/model of your boat ?
Pat 
SM #123

-----Original Message-----
From: Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Fri, Sep 6, 2019 8:49 am
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show
Cindy and I are driving in for the entire show. We have a previous engagement on Saturday, October 12, but Friday would be good.......
~~~️~~~Matt

On Sep 6, 2019, at 8:12 AM, Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32@...> wrote:
Diane and I will be sailing to the boat show this year, as we have for the last 35 yrs. We would be anchored in the main anchorage and would invite everyone out to the boat for drinks and pizza and we could do that. But it may be more convenient to meet at a local restaurant across the street from the show. Mangia Italian Grill has great pizza ,etc. and is only about 100 ft. from the show. Friday or Sat. about 6:30 would work for us ,Sat. may be busier . If anyone would be interested, lets get a head count .
Seya There,
Pat & Diane,
SV Shenanigans

-----Original Message-----
From: karkauai via Groups.Io <karkauai@...>
To: main <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Sent: Thu, Sep 5, 2019 9:29 am
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] Annapolis Boat Show
Iris and I will be driving over to Annapolis for the show.  If there’s a get-together for dinner and/or drinks, we’d like to join in.
Kent Robertson
S/V Kristy SM243
St Michaels, MD

On Sep 4, 2019, at 10:23 AM, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:
Mike,

No problem.  JL Mertz's Speedi-Sleeve idea is a good one too as the surface finish on the shaft is really not good enough to ensure a good seal with the oil seal. 

Regarding the Annapolis Boat Show, we will definitely be at the show but we are not sure if we will taking Cara or just driving.  It's such a zoo around there at that time and we can't take the days off work to get there early enough to be ensured of a decent anchoring spot.  Definitely let me know what the plans are as they develop!

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Amel OEM Rigging

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Hi Eric,
FWIW, on my Santorin in 2008 I paid €4706 plus €145 for shipping to Italy. ACMO said they did not have to collect tax if I used a US credit card.
Craig

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

robin hutter
 

On my Amel 54 the seal is exactly the same as the one behind the prop at the C-drive - of these Imalways have spares and when I needed it a week ago, lucky me found out...

fair winds 
Robin
Carré d‘As
Amel 54 #54
on the way to the baleares


Gesendet von Yahoo Mail für iPad

Re: Free or Tie-on the steering wheel

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Pat 
You’re absolutely right. It’s not a good Idea. 
I tried have done it also with flex bungee cables. In some place it works well. Not much shock on the cables. Sometimes I had it too loose so the rudder was moving. 
Thanks Danny and Paul for your advice. 
Best regards
Ruedi 
WASABI A54-55

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of "Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io" <sailw32@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Mittwoch, 18. September 2019 um 20:21
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Free or Tie-on the steering wheel

Ruedi, I would advise against securing the quadrant ,in the event of an emergency a boat should be ready to move immediately . Having to leave the cockpit and go down to the aft stateroom ,lift the bed and untie the quadrant sounds like a bad idea.
I have a small stainless hook secured to the bulkhead about six inches below the wheel ,I use a black rubber bungee with hooks on the ends , I put those hooks over two of  the spokes on the wheel and the bungee under the hook. This allows a very little bit of play, but 99 % a the time no movement at all and we live on a mooring. I can unsecure the wheel in one second if need be.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigan


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Wed, Sep 18, 2019 2:03 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Free or Tie-on the steering wheel

Hi Ruedi, if the wheel is tied tight and there is clonking it is possible your steering cables need adjustment. Easy to do where they are mounted by the quadrant. Just like adjusting cables on a bicycle.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 19 September 2019 at 00:19 "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi Ruedi,
The best is to fix it, but if you fix it it MUST be without any gap (possibility that the rude can move) ... else do not fix it ...
JLMERTZ
CottonBay


Le 18/09/2019 à 11:52, Rudolf Waldispuehl a écrit :
Dear Amel'ias

I’m curious about experience with tie on the steering wheel and maybe someone has a proven technical answer. 
When I’m on Anchor or in a Marina I always fix/tie the steering wheel in the cockpit with a rope. After this summer in many anchorages with some swell I was not sure anymore if these is the right solution. 
 
Always when small waves hitting the rudder the wheel tried to turn in one or other direction and there is a noticeable noise (little dong) on the cables. 
When I was loosing the rope then the noise was notable under the aft bed because the Autopilot linear drive gear is moving and made noise.   
I’m now quite unsecure which option is the better, -  fix the wheel or let it move around?  Both ways are working on either AP Linear drive and/or steering cables. 
 
Would be the best option to make a fix/tie on the rudder quadrant to stop moving? Has someone done it?
What is your experience and long-term observations? 
 
Thanks for your thought and best regards
Ruedi
SY-WASABI 
AMEL 54#55

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com

 

 

Re: Mast foot rubber seal pad

Arno Luijten
 

Hi Nick,

I’m not implying you mast is dancing on the deck in rough seas but as you rightfully say there is flexibility in the stays, the hull itself and what have you not. As both the deck under the mast and the underside of the mast have quite hard surfaces, the pad is just there to take the edge off the impact, much like the silent blocks in the suspension of a car.
Regrettably I was not there when they replaced the pad, but someone told me they use a rig that has some hydraulic jacks. You could ask them about it.

Regards,

Arno,
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

 

Mark,

There has been some information out here that the seal is VA45mmX60mmX7mm Seal  OR 45mmX58mmX7mm. The middle dimension is the shaft size. I know for a fact that Amel 54 #69 had a 58mm shaft. One SM owner recorded his as 60mm, but was not 100% sure.

Can you verify this issue?

Your advice certainly applies to all Santorins, Super Maramus, and 54s. 

Bill

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Wed, Sep 18, 2019 at 5:43 PM Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:
Just a friendly reminder to my fellow Amel owners to do a regular check on the shaft seal that sits over the main furler cylinder.  It's the one circled in RED in the picture below:


I would advise you have look at it ASAP and put it on your annual maintenance list to at least inspect it's condition and if it's at all questionable, replace it.  It costs less than $5 to buy a new one but could end up costing you hundreds of $ or more if it fails and you destroy the gears.  Don't be like me and wait until your main furler seizes before you check it!

Here is a picture of my seal.  It actually has a split in it so I use the term "seal" loosely:



I can confirm that it is a VA-45 or VA-045 V-ring Seal as you can faintly see "VA 45" molded into the rubber in the upper left side of the picture. 

The failed seal has allowed saltwater, rainwater and dirt to enter the furler cylinder for some time now and it eventually destroyed the tapered roller bearing that sits at the top of the the shaft.  Here is what my bearing looked like when I got it off the shaft AFTER I cleaned it up:





Needless to say the bearing is completely destroyed.  Obviously this did not happen overnight but has been going on for a long time.  I've owned my boat for just over two years now and surprisingly the main furler has worked almost all of the time.  It did pop a breaker now and again but I attributed that to the motor brushes being old and worn and all the carbon dust that was inside the motor when I took it apart this spring to clean and change the brushes.  I'm sure that the worn brushes and carbon dust did not help things, but the main culprit was clearly the corroded roller bearing caused by the failed V-ring Seal.  

I would highly recommend that you have look at your furler seal now and inspect it on regular basis.  If you find it cracked, damaged or missing I suggest that you take the furler assembly down and open it up, clean the inside and inspect the bearing as well as the other ball bearing, three lip seals, and two o-rings that are inside.  It does not take that long nor require any special tools to do this tear down and inspection.  If you do need to change bearings, a bearing puller certainly makes the job easier.

Thanks to Duane (Wanderer) and Pat (Shenanigans) and others on this forum for some excellent pictures, part numbers and sources for replacement parts.  Some if the information is spread around a bit here so once I am sure that I have all of the correct information regarding all the replacement parts that I needed to do the rebuild I will make another post here to try to get it all in one place.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: Steyr impeller maintenance

Paul Brown
 

Hello Jose 

I am going to remove the raw water pump and replace the impeller that way, it may take longer but I expect it to be easier.

I’ll let you know if it does work out easier 

Regards Paul - Fortuna II 55/17


On 19 Sep 2019, at 12:54 am, Jose Alegria <Josealegr@...> wrote:

Paul hello

You are correct; it is almost impossible take out the impeller without remove the oil filter first.
I change the impeller and after take out the oil filter is ± easy change the impeller 
Regards
Jose Alegria
Amel55#003 - MERIT

Re: Steyr impeller maintenance

Jose Alegria
 

Paul hello

You are correct; it is almost impossible take out the impeller without remove the oil filter first.
I change the impeller and after take out the oil filter is ± easy change the impeller 
Regards
Jose Alegria
Amel55#003 - MERIT

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Main Sail Furling Motor Issue

Mark McGovern
 
Edited

Just a friendly reminder to my fellow Amel owners to do a regular check on the shaft seal that sits over the main furler cylinder.  It's the one circled in RED in the picture below:


I would advise you have look at it ASAP and put it on your annual maintenance list to at least inspect it's condition and if it's at all questionable, replace it.  It costs less than $5 to buy a new one but could end up costing you hundreds of $ or more if it fails and you destroy the gears.  Don't be like me and wait until your main furler seizes before you check it!

Here is a picture of my seal.  It actually has a split in it so I use the term "seal" loosely:



I can confirm that it is a VA-45 or VA-045 V-ring Seal as you can faintly see "VA 45" molded into the rubber in the upper left side of the picture. 

The failed seal has allowed saltwater, rainwater and dirt to enter the furler cylinder for some time now and it eventually destroyed the tapered roller bearing that sits at the top of the shaft.  Here is what my bearing looked like when I got it off the shaft AFTER I cleaned it up:





Needless to say the bearing is completely destroyed.  Obviously this did not happen overnight but has been going on for a long time.  I've owned my boat for just over two years now and surprisingly the main furler has worked almost all of the time.  It did pop a breaker now and again but I attributed that to the motor brushes being old and worn and all the carbon dust that was inside the motor when I took it apart this spring to clean and change the brushes.  I'm sure that the worn brushes and carbon dust did not help things, but the main culprit was clearly the corroded roller bearing caused by the failed V-ring Seal.  

I would highly recommend that you have look at your furler seal now and inspect it on regular basis.  If you find it cracked, damaged or missing I suggest that you take the furler assembly down and open it up, clean the inside and inspect the bearing as well as the other ball bearing, three lip seals, and two o-rings that are inside.  It does not take that long nor require any special tools to do this tear down and inspection.  If you do need to change bearings, a bearing puller certainly makes the job easier.

Thanks to Duane (Wanderer) and Pat (Shenanigans) and others on this forum for some excellent pictures, part numbers and sources for replacement parts.  Some if the information is spread around a bit here so once I am sure that I have all of the correct information regarding all the replacement parts that I needed to do the rebuild I will make another post here to try to get it all in one place.

--
Mark McGovern
SM #440 Cara
Deale, MD USA

Re: EPIRB mounting location

Vic Fryzel
 

Where did you end up mounting it?

Re: Mast foot rubber seal pad

 

Porter,

One of the best Amel riggers is Phil Ash, Gulf Harbour Rigging in Gulf harbour Marina.
Gulf Harbour Rigging
Gulf Harbour Marina
P.O.Box 729
Whangaparaoa 0943
Auckland
New Zealand
Phone: +64 9 424 1320
Mobile: +64 27 292 7198
Email: phil"at"gulfharbourrigging.co.nz

The Amel Matinique tool is basically a custom metal frame used with a hydraulic jack that lifts the mast just high enough to replace the mast pad. I have seen it, but do not have a photo of it.


--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Yacht Owners School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   


On Wed, Sep 18, 2019 at 1:16 PM Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Our main past pad is nearly nonexistent now. Plan to change it in NZ. The shrouds are still incredibly tight, on the lee side as well.  I suspect a slight loosening of the forestay. When changing load directions there is a small shimmy in the boat which I suspect is new, but I doubt myself. 
Regardless, the rig seems tight and integrous (with a magnifying glass at the shroud based) but plan on a change in NZ, the primary reason being this pad, and going into the 10th year new wire seems prudent. 

I am considering doing the rewire myself, ordering the ACMO and then having a rigger check my work vs, since I have to get a crane to lift the mast, just have the whole thing done by a rigger- wire and all. 

The only reason I have to pull the mast is this mast pad: has anyone seen the Martinique gizmo that obviates that need in order to replace the pad?  

Any experience with rerigging one’s self?

Any suggestions for a rigger around Auckland?  

As always thanks for your help. This forum is such a wonderful resource. 


Porter McRoberts 
A54-152
Vava’u Tonga


Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Sep 19, 2019, at 6:54 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

Hi Arno,

Did the guys in Martinique actually tell you the pad was to dampen the load on the deck when pounding?

I can not imagine that there will really be any give in it, after the rig is tensioned. The worst thing for a mast is for it to go slack and then tight again. If the pad really is for that purpose then that is what would happen, obviously to a very small degree. The compression load on that mast base must be immense. If we say that the rigging is tensioned to 50% of the wire strength and work out the angles, the downward vector of all the shroud tensions added together must be in the order of 50-100 tons. (very quick mental arithmetic)

Although Amels are very well constructed there must be much more spring in the whole structure of the boat than that 5mm plate. All boats bend a little, which is most of the reason that when sailing in a stiff breeze there is much less tension on the leeward shrouds. That and the stretch the wire itself, which is actually quite a lot.

I do not know for sure but I think the pad is to prevent the paint on the base of the mast from chipping. As you point out it is interesting to note that the mizzen plate lasts longer. Maybe that is not from less compression but because it is less exposed to sun and sea. It is interesting, and I would like to know for sure.

Nick
Amelia 
AML54-019
On 18 Sep 2019, at 18:19, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi Ruedi,
Strange answer you have got from Amel as the crew in Martinique has even build a special rig to replace the pad with a standing mast. It is meant to dampen the forces of the mast on the deck when sailing turbulent seas. Mine was replaced when I bought the boat (July 2018), nine years old. The one under the mizzen does not receive much pounding so it stays much better over time.

Regards,

Arno
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: Free or Tie-on the steering wheel

Patrick McAneny
 

Ruedi, I would advise against securing the quadrant ,in the event of an emergency a boat should be ready to move immediately . Having to leave the cockpit and go down to the aft stateroom ,lift the bed and untie the quadrant sounds like a bad idea.
I have a small stainless hook secured to the bulkhead about six inches below the wheel ,I use a black rubber bungee with hooks on the ends , I put those hooks over two of  the spokes on the wheel and the bungee under the hook. This allows a very little bit of play, but 99 % a the time no movement at all and we live on a mooring. I can unsecure the wheel in one second if need be.
Good Luck,
Pat
SM Shenanigan


-----Original Message-----
From: Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...>
To: main <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Sent: Wed, Sep 18, 2019 2:03 pm
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Free or Tie-on the steering wheel

Hi Ruedi, if the wheel is tied tight and there is clonking it is possible your steering cables need adjustment. Easy to do where they are mounted by the quadrant. Just like adjusting cables on a bicycle.
Regards
Danny
SM 299
Ocean Pearl
On 19 September 2019 at 00:19 "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi Ruedi,
The best is to fix it, but if you fix it it MUST be without any gap (possibility that the rude can move) ... else do not fix it ...
JLMERTZ
CottonBay


Le 18/09/2019 à 11:52, Rudolf Waldispuehl a écrit :
Dear Amel'ias

I’m curious about experience with tie on the steering wheel and maybe someone has a proven technical answer. 
When I’m on Anchor or in a Marina I always fix/tie the steering wheel in the cockpit with a rope. After this summer in many anchorages with some swell I was not sure anymore if these is the right solution. 
 
Always when small waves hitting the rudder the wheel tried to turn in one or other direction and there is a noticeable noise (little dong) on the cables. 
When I was loosing the rope then the noise was notable under the aft bed because the Autopilot linear drive gear is moving and made noise.   
I’m now quite unsecure which option is the better, -  fix the wheel or let it move around?  Both ways are working on either AP Linear drive and/or steering cables. 
 
Would be the best option to make a fix/tie on the rudder quadrant to stop moving? Has someone done it?
What is your experience and long-term observations? 
 
Thanks for your thought and best regards
Ruedi
SY-WASABI 
AMEL 54#55

Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com

 

 

Re: Mast foot rubber seal pad

Porter McRoberts
 

Our main past pad is nearly nonexistent now. Plan to change it in NZ. The shrouds are still incredibly tight, on the lee side as well.  I suspect a slight loosening of the forestay. When changing load directions there is a small shimmy in the boat which I suspect is new, but I doubt myself. 
Regardless, the rig seems tight and integrous (with a magnifying glass at the shroud based) but plan on a change in NZ, the primary reason being this pad, and going into the 10th year new wire seems prudent. 

I am considering doing the rewire myself, ordering the ACMO and then having a rigger check my work vs, since I have to get a crane to lift the mast, just have the whole thing done by a rigger- wire and all. 

The only reason I have to pull the mast is this mast pad: has anyone seen the Martinique gizmo that obviates that need in order to replace the pad?  

Any experience with rerigging one’s self?

Any suggestions for a rigger around Auckland?  

As always thanks for your help. This forum is such a wonderful resource. 


Porter McRoberts 
A54-152
Vava’u Tonga


Excuse the errors.  
Sent from my IPhone 

On Sep 19, 2019, at 6:54 AM, ngtnewington Newington via Groups.Io <ngtnewington@...> wrote:

Hi Arno,

Did the guys in Martinique actually tell you the pad was to dampen the load on the deck when pounding?

I can not imagine that there will really be any give in it, after the rig is tensioned. The worst thing for a mast is for it to go slack and then tight again. If the pad really is for that purpose then that is what would happen, obviously to a very small degree. The compression load on that mast base must be immense. If we say that the rigging is tensioned to 50% of the wire strength and work out the angles, the downward vector of all the shroud tensions added together must be in the order of 50-100 tons. (very quick mental arithmetic)

Although Amels are very well constructed there must be much more spring in the whole structure of the boat than that 5mm plate. All boats bend a little, which is most of the reason that when sailing in a stiff breeze there is much less tension on the leeward shrouds. That and the stretch the wire itself, which is actually quite a lot.

I do not know for sure but I think the pad is to prevent the paint on the base of the mast from chipping. As you point out it is interesting to note that the mizzen plate lasts longer. Maybe that is not from less compression but because it is less exposed to sun and sea. It is interesting, and I would like to know for sure.

Nick
Amelia 
AML54-019
On 18 Sep 2019, at 18:19, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi Ruedi,
Strange answer you have got from Amel as the crew in Martinique has even build a special rig to replace the pad with a standing mast. It is meant to dampen the forces of the mast on the deck when sailing turbulent seas. Mine was replaced when I bought the boat (July 2018), nine years old. The one under the mizzen does not receive much pounding so it stays much better over time.

Regards,

Arno
SV Luna,
A54-121

Re: Free or Tie-on the steering wheel

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Ruedi, if the wheel is tied tight and there is clonking it is possible your steering cables need adjustment. Easy to do where they are mounted by the quadrant. Just like adjusting cables on a bicycle.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl

On 19 September 2019 at 00:19 "jlm@..." <jlm@...> wrote:

Hi Ruedi,

The best is to fix it, but if you fix it it MUST be without any gap (possibility that the rude can move) ... else do not fix it ...

JLMERTZ

CottonBay



Le 18/09/2019 à 11:52, Rudolf Waldispuehl a écrit :

Dear Amel'ias

I’m curious about experience with tie on the steering wheel and maybe someone has a proven technical answer. 

When I’m on Anchor or in a Marina I always fix/tie the steering wheel in the cockpit with a rope. After this summer in many anchorages with some swell I was not sure anymore if these is the right solution. 

 

Always when small waves hitting the rudder the wheel tried to turn in one or other direction and there is a noticeable noise (little dong) on the cables. 

When I was loosing the rope then the noise was notable under the aft bed because the Autopilot linear drive gear is moving and made noise.   

I’m now quite unsecure which option is the better, -  fix the wheel or let it move around?  Both ways are working on either AP Linear drive and/or steering cables. 

 

Would be the best option to make a fix/tie on the rudder quadrant to stop moving? Has someone done it?
What is your experience and long-term observations? 

 

Thanks for your thought and best regards

Ruedi

SY-WASABI 

AMEL 54#55


Garanti sans virus. www.avast.com


 


 

Re: Mast foot rubber seal pad

ngtnewington Newington
 

Hi Arno,

Did the guys in Martinique actually tell you the pad was to dampen the load on the deck when pounding?

I can not imagine that there will really be any give in it, after the rig is tensioned. The worst thing for a mast is for it to go slack and then tight again. If the pad really is for that purpose then that is what would happen, obviously to a very small degree. The compression load on that mast base must be immense. If we say that the rigging is tensioned to 50% of the wire strength and work out the angles, the downward vector of all the shroud tensions added together must be in the order of 50-100 tons. (very quick mental arithmetic)

Although Amels are very well constructed there must be much more spring in the whole structure of the boat than that 5mm plate. All boats bend a little, which is most of the reason that when sailing in a stiff breeze there is much less tension on the leeward shrouds. That and the stretch the wire itself, which is actually quite a lot.

I do not know for sure but I think the pad is to prevent the paint on the base of the mast from chipping. As you point out it is interesting to note that the mizzen plate lasts longer. Maybe that is not from less compression but because it is less exposed to sun and sea. It is interesting, and I would like to know for sure.

Nick
Amelia 
AML54-019

On 18 Sep 2019, at 18:19, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:

Hi Ruedi,
Strange answer you have got from Amel as the crew in Martinique has even build a special rig to replace the pad with a standing mast. It is meant to dampen the forces of the mast on the deck when sailing turbulent seas. Mine was replaced when I bought the boat (July 2018), nine years old. The one under the mizzen does not receive much pounding so it stays much better over time.

Regards,

Arno
SV Luna,
A54-121