Date   
Re: Storm Tactics for Super Maramu

Stephan Regulinski
 

I bought a Gale Sail for my SMM (#303) and have used it a number of
times. It the most recent use, we used it to make modest progress in
sailing through a 50, gusting 60 storm. The trick in raising this
sail is the same as for reefing: raise the sail when it first occurs
to you that you might need it. If you wait, you'll be trying to
raise it while waves crash over you. (I have done this also and
suggest using harness and tether.) My second suggestion is that the
genoa sheets by tied off securely well aft of the nav lights. I tied
my sheets to the rail at the pulpet and lost the starboard deck-level
nav light when waves pounded the coiled sheet into the light.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., asm283 wrote:
Thanks Richard<br><br>I have seen this product. I always wondered
what it would be like to raise this sail in a gale with a good sea.
Has anyone tried this.<br><br>Vito

Re: Notebooks on board for SM electrical wireing

Stephan Regulinski
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Hanspeter Bättig
<hanspeter.baettig@b...> wrote:
Can anyone tell me how he installed his notebook in terms of the
electrical supply. I need to connect 2 notebooks; one in a drawer
under the radar and one in the foreward cabin for the children.
Is a e.g. 200 W converter (12V/220V the right choise. Were do you
connect the 12 V, maybe from the television panel? Is a converter
24V to 220V availabal on the market. I did not found one so far in
Switzerland.
Hanspeter Baettig
SM#16
Hans,

I had Amel install a 24v to 110v inverter in the hanging locker for
my US-purchased electronics. The same inverter can be purchased in
any combination of 12/24v DC to 110/220v AC. Check the West Marine
catalogue or westmarine.com online. It is a pure sine wave inverter
and works wonderfully for my printers as well. I bought a 1000W
inverter which is a little expensive, but powers everyting.

Stephan
SM2000 #303

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Electrial bilge pump SMM 2000

Stephan Regulinski
 

I had my bilge pump overhauled in La Rochelle by Amel when it stopped
pumping after 2.5 years in service. 6 months later, it failed
again. I disassembled the pump and found the flap problem that
others have described. The flap was in fine shape, it simply failed
to close. Not enough "springy-ness" apparently. To solve this
problem, I inserted a piece of plastic (cut from a plastic wire tie)
behind the flap. This has worked fine so far. If it fails to hold
up, I will probably try a piece of spring steel (a piece of used bi-
metal hack-saw blade should do it). This is a far sight cheaper than
the rebuild kit.

Re: Crash Bar In Front of Galley Stove

Stephan Regulinski
 

I have just ordered a crash bar for my Super Maramu 2000 (hull #303),
built to my specifications from a local stainless steel welder here
in Stanta Cruz de Tenerife, Los Canarios. He is charging me 60
euros, about $65, and will deliver it to me in two days from the date
of order. I will install myself.

My design calls for 25mm stainless tubing (same as on rail) welded to
3mm-thick end plates plus two 4mm-thick, threaded backing plates to
receive the bolts which will hold the bar to the cabinetry. The
backing plates are screwed to the back of the plywood cabinat and
hence do not fall down when the bolt holding the crash bar is removed.

This backing-plate design is the same as Amel uses, for example, in
the nav station where the bolts hold the nav station cabinetry in
place. To see the Amel design, remove one of the upper drawers from
the nav station. The brass plate is visible in the bottom of the
cabinate. It is identical to the plate that holds one of the bolts
that pivots the stove.

This is a very simple design, very strong, removable (to allow access
to the dishwasher) and very inexpensive compared to the Amel solution
(which I have not seen).

I am also considering a second crash bar that would swing into place
and lock with a removable pin to separate the galley from the
companionway. We have had two accidents where the person in the
galley was thrown to the nav station. Both times, the nav seat broke
(instead of my wife's or my ribs!).

SSB Wipe-Antenna

hns154es <hns154es@...>
 

I would like to install a Wipe-Antenna for the SSB radio on the back
of our SM. Can somebody tell me the exactly position and the best
mounting of it. It would be a great help, if somebody could send a
picture of the installation. Thanks a lot and best regards.
Hanspeter Wehrli SM #158, hns154es@...

Amel Mango for sale

Bernd W. Rost
 

Hi Amel Fan´s,
unfortunately my wifes seasickness dos´nt end. Therefor my Amel Mango is for sale. She was built in 1986, she is in excellent condition, she has very low usage (1300 engine hours), no sun-damages on the hull, inside loks like new, she is ready to go.
She is lying on the Canaries and can be delivered to US East-Coast or West Indies or Mediterranean. The asking price is 195000 €.
For more information send an email to bernd.w.rost@... or call +49 174 3235014.
Yours sincerely
Bernd W. Rost

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Fitting an additional Echosounder (In terphase Twinscope)

Shann, Mark V <shannmv@...>
 

Thanks John & Anne,

Cutting the hole in the hull and fitting the transducer, is this something
you would think that I could do without Amel's help? In terms of location, I
was thinking along same lines, but presumably this means the new transducer
is offset / in front of the speed paddlewheel and original depth transducer.

By the way, the Twinscope does come off my last boat and I agree - does not
see very far in front, but in the Red Sea on a stormy night - this might
help (I have been there before with a lead line, not nice!)

cheers Amer.

-----Original Message-----
From: John and Anne on Bali Hai [mailto:hollamby@...]
Sent: 27 March 2003 14:20
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Fitting an additional Echosounder
(Interphase Twinscope)


--- In amelyachtowners@..., "amershann" <shannmv@b...>
wrote:
Hi there, Does anyone have experience with fitting a "thru'hull"
echosounder (Interphase twinscope) to an Amel Maramu 1984. This is
a
forward and sidewards looking echosounder with a through hull
transducer on a bronze screwthread, fairly large transducer.

I am looking to fit one, but am concerned with hull cutting
procedure, transducer placement (so not as to interfere with other
sensors) and subsequent hull epoxy bounding + antifouling over
join.
Help please.

Many thanks, Amer (Synnefoula, Crete, Greece).
Amel retrofitted an Echopilot FLS to Bal Hai. They lifted the
floorboard in the forward cabin and put resin/filling on the V of
the hull a short distance in front of the web near the the front of
that section of bilge,leaving a space about 5cms between the filling
and the opening in the web so water can run back. The filling is
about 3.5cms high at the aft face and the top was level. They cut a
6mm hole with a hole saw and then made the exterior of the hull good
with filling to match the size of the through hull fitting and
antifouled it and touched up the white paint in the bilge.
I only fitted the FLS as I had removed it fron my previous yacht.
I am not impressed with the usefulness of FLS and would certainly
not have bought one again if I had not got one.
Amel ran the wire aft to the port side of the space above the galley
sink. I drilled holes big enough to take the plugs/wires at the back
of the FLS on the port side of the cockpit and through the
fibreglass below in the port cockpit locker and then fished the
wiring through. After connecting the instrument I sealed the two
holes around the wires with silicone and pushed the instrument on to
the sealant securing the instrument with a picture frame.
The FLS is useful at very slow speeds approaching obstructions such
as reefs in the S.Pacific. Shelving bottoms do no reflect backwards
and there is not enough time to react if there is an obstruction at
normal speeds or if there is any current.

Good luck with it, John Hollamby, Bali Hai SM319



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Re: Fitting an additional Echosounder (Interphase Twinscope)

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "amershann" <shannmv@b...>
wrote:
Hi there, Does anyone have experience with fitting a "thru'hull"
echosounder (Interphase twinscope) to an Amel Maramu 1984. This is
a
forward and sidewards looking echosounder with a through hull
transducer on a bronze screwthread, fairly large transducer.

I am looking to fit one, but am concerned with hull cutting
procedure, transducer placement (so not as to interfere with other
sensors) and subsequent hull epoxy bounding + antifouling over
join.
Help please.

Many thanks, Amer (Synnefoula, Crete, Greece).
Amel retrofitted an Echopilot FLS to Bal Hai. They lifted the
floorboard in the forward cabin and put resin/filling on the V of
the hull a short distance in front of the web near the the front of
that section of bilge,leaving a space about 5cms between the filling
and the opening in the web so water can run back. The filling is
about 3.5cms high at the aft face and the top was level. They cut a
6mm hole with a hole saw and then made the exterior of the hull good
with filling to match the size of the through hull fitting and
antifouled it and touched up the white paint in the bilge.
I only fitted the FLS as I had removed it fron my previous yacht.
I am not impressed with the usefulness of FLS and would certainly
not have bought one again if I had not got one.
Amel ran the wire aft to the port side of the space above the galley
sink. I drilled holes big enough to take the plugs/wires at the back
of the FLS on the port side of the cockpit and through the
fibreglass below in the port cockpit locker and then fished the
wiring through. After connecting the instrument I sealed the two
holes around the wires with silicone and pushed the instrument on to
the sealant securing the instrument with a picture frame.
The FLS is useful at very slow speeds approaching obstructions such
as reefs in the S.Pacific. Shelving bottoms do no reflect backwards
and there is not enough time to react if there is an obstruction at
normal speeds or if there is any current.

Good luck with it, John Hollamby, Bali Hai SM319

Sharki Rig & Cabin top paint

milnchris <no_reply@...>
 

We are in the process of re-fitting our Sharki & have a few queries
that we hoped someone might be able to answer:

1. Rigging. Does anyone have details of recommended tensions for the
rig.

2. Mizzen mast. We have had the spreaders off and have put up a radar
dome. Is the angle of these spreaders crucial? What should it be?

3. Cabin top. The previous owner had painted the cabin top etc (not
the imitation teak) with a white one-pot gloss paint which is very
slippery. We would like to remove this and re-paint. Does anyone have
any suggestion about this - how do we take the paint off? It is
impossible to sand because of the non-skid grooves. Would you use
paint stripper? And does anyone recommend a particular brand/type of
paint to replace this.

Thanks for the help.
Cheers
Millie & Chris
"Sugar", Sharki No. 24

hull sanding

Knipping-Werbung@...
 

Dear colleagues,

we are going to repaint the surface of our ship's (Euros 41 from 1975) hull below and above the water line. So first of all the fouling has to be removed. What kind of machine and sanding paper or device is best to do this? Then: What kind of tool or machine is the best for sanding and preparing the surface above the water line without damaging the gelcoat or removing intact layers of paint. There are too many kinds and grain types of sanding papers, nets, brushes etc. I just cannot decide what to buy. One problem being that I am in Germany and have to buy things here while the ship stays in Greece.
--
With best regards, Martin

REPLACING CORRODED FRESH WATER COPPER PIPES-MARAMU

Alejandro Paquin <simpatico_amel_maramu@...>
 

Does anyone have experience replacing the copper pipes carrying water
from the water pump to the forward head washbasin? How do you get
around lifting the molded shower floor?

A second question, has anyone changed the toilets in the Maramu
heads? I have original Brydon toilets in my boat, built in 1981.
Can someone share his/her experience with me?

Antifouling

nukanu42 <kozmakat@...>
 

I have recently adopted a 1990 SM. I would like to remove the
old antifouling down to the gelcoat, then apply 2 coats of epoxy
followed by 2 coats of antifouling. This is my first attempt at
doing this with this type of vessel. I have a couple of questions
for the group. Is it possible to remove all the paint by scraping
and sanding without damaging the gelcoat? Or has the experience of
the group been that using a paint stripper, such as "Peelaway", is
better? For the keel, I have been advised that sand blasting
followed by primer and then 4 coats of epoxy and 2 coats of
antifouling. Any special treatment for the keel/hull junction?
Any advice would be appreciated. Regards. J.R.

Engine temperature

mcgosprey2000 <no_reply@...>
 

Can anyone please post what the usual running temperature is on their
SM 2000 Volvo Penta. At 2200 RPM my TMD 22-P Volvo Penta runs at a
steady 95-100 degrees centigrade (about 3/4 up through the range set
on the temperature guage, which I think is a bit high.) Having
eliminated other likely causes, I am wondering if the temperature
issue may be related to a coked-up turbocharger problem which other
listmates have written about. If not that, has anyone ever been told
that the Autoprop supplied with the Amel may be incorrectly sized
(which I doubt). Thanks for any help.
Michael Glass
Second Call

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Maramu for sale

Vivian, Robert & Aron Lewin <lewin@...>
 

On Friday, March 21, 2003, at 09:38 PM, Vivian, Robert & Aron Lewin
wrote:

Dear Derek
I have been in the market for an Amel.Pls send details to   above

With thanks

Rob



On Friday, March 14, 2003, at 08:35 AM, Derek jarvis wrote:


I have a pristine 1985 Amel Maramu for sale here in Ft
Lauderdale,Florida.The boat is turnkey and come with 6kw
generator,Vetus bow thruster,Perkins diesel,air conditioning,new
freezer,new inverter,new awlgrip paint on topsides, deck and
masts.Full B and G electronics,brand new radar,recent
upholstry,upgraded sails,dinghy and outboard!Email me for photos and
more info.

Cheers Derek



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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Maramu for sale

Vivian, Robert & Aron Lewin <lewin@...>
 

Dear Derek
I have been in the market for an Amel.Pls send details to above

With thanks

Rob



On Friday, March 14, 2003, at 08:35 AM, Derek jarvis wrote:


I have a pristine 1985 Amel Maramu for sale here in Ft
Lauderdale,Florida.The boat is turnkey and come with 6kw
generator,Vetus bow thruster,Perkins diesel,air conditioning,new
freezer,new inverter,new awlgrip paint on topsides, deck and
masts.Full B and G electronics,brand new radar,recent
upholstry,upgraded sails,dinghy and outboard!Email me for photos and
more info.

Cheers Derek



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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Halogen bulbes life span

Derek jarvis <sailorman522000@...>
 

You can buy the halogen bulbs that are 28v instead of the 24v.It is a common problem.
Cheers Derek
the Lundstroms <linneasail@...> wrote:Untitled DocumentWe have had "Linnea" fore about 9 months (hull #366). We have to change our interior light bulbs all the time (particular the small halogen ones). Even though we try to not have all the lights on, we end up switching out about 2-3 light bulbs per week.

When we talked to Amel about it a while back, they explained that the problem is with the "Smart Charger" (an option we bought) because it pushes the voltage up to 28V frequently (when you are on shore power) which is to much for the halogen light bulbs. This makes lots of sense, but it's still frustrating to switch out light bulbs all the time.

Does anybody else have the same problem?


S/Y Linnea
Walter Lundstrom





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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fitting an additional Echosounder (Interphase Twinscope)

Tonino Stoppani <md3536@...>
 

Hi, I had the INTERPHASE sounder looking forward to bottom and side by side on my Camper & Nicholson 45 "MARO' " and I have been very satisfied.
The installation was on the center bottom of the boat where the thickness of FRP is maximum in a sort of small island in FRP (similar to the small islad used for side log/echo-sounder). Safety was satisfied by the strenght of the FRP island and I never had any problem.
God wind
Antonio Stoppani (Maro'-Rome-Italy)

----- Original Message -----
From: amershann
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2003 3:11 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fitting an additional Echosounder (Interphase Twinscope)


Hi there, Does anyone have experience with fitting a "thru'hull"
echosounder (Interphase twinscope) to an Amel Maramu 1984. This is a
forward and sidewards looking echosounder with a through hull
transducer on a bronze screwthread, fairly large transducer.

I am looking to fit one, but am concerned with hull cutting
procedure, transducer placement (so not as to interfere with other
sensors) and subsequent hull epoxy bounding + antifouling over join.
Help please.

Many thanks, Amer (Synnefoula, Crete, Greece).


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Fitting an additional Echosounder (Interphase Twinscope)

amershann <shannmv@...>
 

Hi there, Does anyone have experience with fitting a "thru'hull"
echosounder (Interphase twinscope) to an Amel Maramu 1984. This is a
forward and sidewards looking echosounder with a through hull
transducer on a bronze screwthread, fairly large transducer.

I am looking to fit one, but am concerned with hull cutting
procedure, transducer placement (so not as to interfere with other
sensors) and subsequent hull epoxy bounding + antifouling over join.
Help please.

Many thanks, Amer (Synnefoula, Crete, Greece).

Re: Halogen bulbes life span

jjwiggin2000 <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "the Lundstroms"
<linneasail@h...> wrote:
Untitled DocumentWe have had "Linnea" fore about 9 months (hull
#366). We have to change our interior light bulbs all the time
(particular the small halogen ones). Even though we try to not have
all the lights on, we end up switching out about 2-3 light bulbs per
week.

When we talked to Amel about it a while back, they explained that
the problem is with the "Smart Charger" (an option we bought) because
it pushes the voltage up to 28V frequently (when you are on shore
power) which is to much for the halogen light bulbs. This makes lots
of sense, but it's still frustrating to switch out light bulbs all the
time.

Does anybody else have the same problem?


S/Y Linnea
Walter Lundstrom
We sure do, but not as bad.

Jim Wiggin, ANTARES


Halogen bulbes life span

the Lundstroms <linneasail@...>
 

Untitled DocumentWe have had "Linnea" fore about 9 months (hull #366). We have to change our interior light bulbs all the time (particular the small halogen ones). Even though we try to not have all the lights on, we end up switching out about 2-3 light bulbs per week.

When we talked to Amel about it a while back, they explained that the problem is with the "Smart Charger" (an option we bought) because it pushes the voltage up to 28V frequently (when you are on shore power) which is to much for the halogen light bulbs. This makes lots of sense, but it's still frustrating to switch out light bulbs all the time.

Does anybody else have the same problem?


S/Y Linnea
Walter Lundstrom