Date   

Re: ais "RADAR"

galacsea2000 <no_reply@...>
 

Eventhough the word is in "quotation Mark", please do not use "Radar"
with AIS.
On your radar screen, what you see is what you get WHERE YOU ARE AND
NOW (assuming everything is working properly). With AIS, what you get
is what the other ships ARE TELLING YOU..... not only can it be
incorrect but more imPortantly it is RARELY timely.
On a recent crossing from Turkey to Tunisia, I followed on my AIS
screen a vessel on a somewhat similar route and found that I could not
have relied on AIS for collision avoidance.


Re: Furuno 1503 - Enable lower sideband

galacsea2000 <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "jrjrjrouse2000"
<sailingjudy@...> wrote:

Does anyone know the code to enable lower sideband on a Furuno 1503?

Judy Rouse
SM Hull 387
On the 1562, it is 1562. So you can try 1503.


Remove from Group List

Mike Mattinson <hallelujah_mk@...>
 

Hi,

We have just sold our lovely Amel Sharki Hallelujah. We have enjoyed reading about various specific challenges. We will mill our Amel and have not found any better yacht.

Please remove us from your group e-mail list.

Thank you
Kim & Mike


Watermaker TDS and battery chargers

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Hi Ian and Judy,
Bluemarin did not drink the product and relied on bottled water.
They also relied on the salinity monitor which did not work as has
now been clearly revealed. The result was that they did not notice
that sea water was polluting their tank and it corroded/destroyed
their washing machine. The suggestion that the monitor is not
connected may well be because the machine is an Amel version.
I had trouble with my battery chargers, one of which failed and I
had to buy a new one as I was in Turkey and could not wait. This was
still not perfect but I sent the broken one back to the makers for
repair asking them to return it to their standard version. Since
then it has worked much better and with both 50 and 30 amp chargers
on the charge rate starts off at 70 plus amps when the batteries
have been taken down to about 75% charge.
Gary...Many thanks for all your hard work, descriptions and pics.
Much appreciated although I am amazed that someone who descibes
himself as a jeweller can give good advice ranging from using a
sledge hammer on the boom outhaul to reverse engineering a complex
electronic circuit board !

Best wishes, Anne and John SM 319


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Maker Salinity Sensor is Not Hooked up to Anything

Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
 

Hi Gary,

Your latest findings make further disturbing reading. Crusader went back in
the water a few days ago, and as promised, I have repeated the tests that
you did on your Dessalator water maker. I have a 160 l/h unit which is now 3
years old.

I removed the salinity tester from the output stage and plugged the hole
with a cork. I started the water maker, got the green 'good quality' light,
then immersed the salinity probe in a cup of seawater. NOTHING HAPPENED. The
water maker continued to fill my freshwater tank.

I then shut the unit down and restarted it with the probe still immersed in
seawater. THE GREEN LIGHT CAME ON AFTER ABOUT 55 SECONDS AND WATER WAS
DIVERTED INTO MY TANK.

So you are absolutely right. The safety feature on our water makers is a
complete sham. I find it quite amazing that any reputable manufacturer could
sell/install what is a life saving piece of equipment for those of us on
long voyages with such a potentially dangerous fault. Every other
manufacturer of desalination equipment that I have inspected has a similar
shutdown feature, that I assume, works? Why does it not on a Dessalator
unit?

Amel say in their manual that there is bad water protection, so why has it
been disabled? If Amel are aware that Pin11 is open circuit, then I consider
them to be highly irresponsible in leading their customers to believe that
the system that they chose, sold and installed does have a reliable
diversion system in the event of bad water being produced. This is
especially true on a yacht where there is only one fresh water tank. Pollute
that tank and you have nothing good left.

I shall write to M. Lemonnier and ask what solution Amel propose to assure
their customers that they have a safe water making system on board. I would
urge everyone else to do the same. The Dessalator system would, I think, not
comply with the Trades Description Act.

Thank you Gary for all your hard detective work. I am sure it is appreciated
by many of us.

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

-------Original Message-------

From: amelliahona
Date: 06/11/06 05:35:27
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Maker Salinity Sensor is Not Hooked up to
Anything

I have spent more than 40 hours drawing complete schematics and logic
diagrams for the
Dessalator water maker Control Board on my Amel SM 2000 , Hull # 335. I have
verified
that the salinity sensor is wired to the circuit board on pin 11 and pin 12
of plug # 2 (see
the photo section for a component labeled photo of this board).

I HAVE VERIFIED THAT PIN 11 OF THIS BOARD IS NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING. PIN
12
GOES TO GROUND BUT THE SALINITY SENSOR THUS CONNECTED IS AN INCOMPLETE
CIRCUIT AND IS NOT FUNCTIONAL. FURTHERMORE, AS CURRENTLY CONFIGURED I CAN
NOT DETERMINE ANY WAY TO MAKE THE SALINITY SENSOR SYSTEM FUNCTIONAL. I CAN
ONLY CONCLUDE THAT THE SALINITY SENSOR ON MY WATERMAKER IS A SHAM
INSTALLATION.

I URGE EVERY AMEL OWNER TO INSPECT THEIR DESSALATOR WATERMAKER CIRCUIT
BOARD. IF YOUR CIRCUIT BOARD IS THE SAME ONE AS DEPICTED IN THE PHOTO
SECTION
AND THE SALINITY SENSOR IS WIRED TO PLUG 2, PINS 11 AND 12 THEN YOU CAN BE
ASSURED THAT THE SALINITY SENSOR IS NOT FUNCTIONAL IN ANY WAY.

Another way to determine if your salinity sensor is functional is to see if
your system
changes to "good quality" and green LED light at the 55 second to 65 second
mark. If it
does then the salinity sensor is NOT functional. The timing function of the
control board
determines the start up sequence and does function for high pressure
(overpressure) shut
down of the system. No other sensing inputs to the board are functional. It
takes about 3
to 4 minutes for the TDS creep to come down to good quality water after
system start up.
This brief period of bad water production is of no consequence when compared
to the
major volume of water production that follows.

I urge all owners to install a continuous EC (electrical conductivity)
monitor with alarm
funciton on the product water line of their water maker. If you do this you
will soon find
that the high EC alarm will sound for the first 3 - 4 minutes after startup
I have installed a
mute switch in the alarm relay line so that I can monitor the start up
sequence with the the
alarm muted and when the EC drops to 450 microSiemens/cm (about 500 ppm TDS)
I can
"arm" the alarm by throwing the switch to allow the alarm to sound the
second EC goes
over 500 mSiemens/cm.

Dessalator and the Dessalator UK rep have intimated that Amel made this type
of
installation. But since the wiring inside the electrical box was undoubtedly
made by
Dessalator and not Amel, and Amel has represented all along that the
salinity sensor
system was functional, I believe this sham installation was unknown to Amel.
The
integrity with which Amel has always conducted itself leads me to believe
that this fraud
was NOT perpetrated by Amel. I don't fault Rod Boreham, the UK
representative for
Dessalator, as he was just passing along what Dessalator was telling him.

You now know the truth about the salinity sensor on our Dessalator water
maker.

Your opposing opinions are welcome. I would like nothing more than to be
proven wrong
on this issue.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona (currently on the hard in Jolly Harbor
Antiqua)
Hull #335


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] watermaker,TDS meter

Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
 

Hi John,

Is your TDS meter made by HM Digital? Mine is, and no matter where I put it
in the blue output line, all I get is an 'Err' message when the water maker
is producing water. It does give a reading when the flow is stopped, i.e.
Just after shutdown, and it works fine in a cup of water. It seems not able
to cope with a decent flow rate. I have tried just after the membrane output
and just after the control panel with the same result. I have waited 5-10
minutes as per Gary's suggestion, but get the same result.

I would appreciate any advice. Like you, I have never used chemicals on my
membranes. Only the occasional back flush with self made water when not in
use for a while.

Cheers

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

-------Original Message-------

From: John and Anne on Bali Hai
Date: 06/08/06 09:17:08
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] watermaker,TDS meter

There seems to be no doubt that the dessalateur salinity detector is
non functioning.A cheap and easy solution is to fit a simple TDS meter
in the output line.Such a meter is sold by an American company
tdsmeter.com and also sold in the UK ro-man.com for £23.50.
It is very small and has two sensors. I did not use the "in" sensor
and put the "out" sensor in the blue output line which can be found
behind the wooden cover at the front ot the big cockpit locker. This
blue pipe is easily cut with a razor knife and the ends pushed in as
far as they will go into the sensor. The wires from the sensors are
connected to the meter with a plug which is quite hard to pull out.
Once removed the plug can be pushed through the small gap created by
removing the screws holding the panel in place in the galley. The
meter is held in place with velcro.
The actual meter is only 3x2x0.75 inches with a very small screen.It
is powered by two button cells and stays on for about 20-30 seconds
when the on button is pushed. It does not have an alarm. It is sold
either with fittings for a small or a larger tube which is needed for
my 160ltr ph watermaker.Make sure that the tubes are pushed fully in
and the do a freshwater flush of the membranes to make sure there are
no leaks before replacing the coverboard.
I used it yesterday for the first time and got an initial reading of
over 9,000 ppm which soon went down to about 360ppm which is better
than Maltese mains water.
Incidentally I have followed Olivier's advice and never sterilised or
pickled the membranes which are still delivering 160 ltr. ph. even
though the machine stands idle for about five months a year. We do
however always flush it with product water after use if it is going to
stand idle for more than a few days. We never take on shore water and
rely totally on this machine.
With the benefit of hind sight I should have put both sensors in the
product out line !

Best wishes to all, Anne and John, SM 319


Re: Water Maker

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Ian:
Mine is the 120 lph (now 160 lph with the new membranes) 220 VAC 50 hertz model. My
membranes had only 185 hours on them when they failed. As I previously mentioned I am
sure that their premature demise was related to prolonged periods of pickling with
pickling solution that was way too concentrated. This due to my ignorance about the bad
effects of pickling and poor instructions from Dessalator (i.e. no really useful owners
manual). As I noted I don't plan to ever pickle the system again. The boat is now on the
hard in Jolly Harbor Antiqua for the hurricane season and I have rigged a multiday timer
with a relay to fllush the system with fresh water for 1 minutes three times per week. The
original Amel pressure water pump flushes about 7 liters per minute through the system.

PS I had a one hour long discussion with Rod Boreham (UK rep for Dessalator) yesterday
about my findings related to the non-connected salinity sensor. He notes that his wiring
diagrams do not match the photo of the circuit board that I sent him but also that the
spare board he has in his parts supply matches my photo. I noted also that the wiring
installation diagram supplied by Amel for my system doesn't match the system installed in
my boat as well. He doesn't know for sure but wondered if perhaps the salinity sensor
hook up and/or the control board were custom made at Amel's request. I suspect we will
never know for sure why or at who's request the salinity sensors were installed but not
connected to anything, but at least we now know that it doesn' work and can take
necessary action.

Regards, Gary Amel SM 2000 Hull # 3335

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian & Judy Jenkins" <ianjudyjenkins@...>
wrote:

Hi Gary, I have just printed some of your very useful photos on changing
the membranes. Is yours a 60lph or 160 lph system? How many hours did you
get out of your membranes before you renewed them? Cheers, Ian Jenkins SM
302


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watermaker TDS and RIB

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Dear John and Anne, Thanks for those tips. Judy, who is a great water drinker, has a prejudice against the water maker water even though I catch her out on a regular basis with blind tastings against whatever bottled water she has obliged me to lug back from some distant supermarket. As a result I have bought the portable TDS meter so that we can have further competitions on board between the Made water and the Bought water. I am sure the Made water will beat the Bought water on a regular basis but, after 35 years of marriage the innermost workings of Judy's mind are still a complete mystery to me so I am not holding my breath that I shall be able to change her preference.Still, we shall have fun doing all our comparisons. Watch this space! Ian.

From: "John and Anne on Bali Hai" <hollamby@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watermaker TDS and RIB
Date: Mon, 12 Jun 2006 14:39:49 -0000

Dear Ian and Judy,
My watermaker has done about 255 hours. We use it for all our onboard
water. I bought the DM1 model TDS and now I wish I had the DM2 as it
never occurred to me that the screen on the DM1 would be so tiny that
it very hard to see the x10 reading flashing when the machine is
turned on.You will need the one to fit 3/8 ths inch tubing if you have
the 160 ltr ph model.
Incidentally if you are about to order the RIB ask them to fit an
extra handle either side in front of the thwart so peole sitting
forward have something to hold on to. They did this for me ,no charge.

Good luck, Anne and John SM319









Yahoo! Groups Links







bowthruster

ivarmylde <mylde@...>
 

Thks to every who sent me replies about problems with the thruster. I
did manage to repair it - it was slightly out of position and I
asjusted the control box ? a bit down so that the metal arrows had
good contact with the pins over and under the control box.

Charlie , I will report about Trapani later.

Rgds Ivar Mylde
SM 53 Silfrania


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SuperMaramu vs Maramu vs Santorin.

Museum <museum@...>
 

Just to correct the information on the Maramu:



From the mid eighties this model was equipped with electrical furling genoa
and main as well as with a retractable bow thruster.



The difference between late Maramu’s and Santorin’s is therefore mainly the
Amel C-drive system, the winged ballast and some hull modifications – e.g.
it is somewhat lighter and will sail a bit faster in most situations.



Best Regards,

Lars, Denmark



_____

Fra: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] På vegne af abulerhum
Sendt: 13. juni 2006 02:48
Til: amelyachtowners@...
Emne: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SuperMaramu vs Maramu vs Santorin.



--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "uno.genesis" <uno.genesis@...> wrote:

I am planning to buy an Amel, and I wonder if some one could tell
me what are the main differences on Supermaramu, Maramu and Santorin
considering 45'and ketch rigging. The pros and cons.
Thaks in advance
I will sumarize quickly, so it will be very uncomplete.
Maramu and Santorin are of the same size (46 ft), Super maramu is 53ft.
There are many difference between Maramu and Santorin.
main differences are:
Maramu:
-line shaft
-3 manual rolling sails
-made until 89
-price range 100 / 150k Euro

Santorin
-Amel type transmission (C)
-Genoa and main electric furling. Artimon manual
-from 89 to 97 (140 made)
-improved hull
-winged ballast
-price range 200 / 250 k Euro
-Perkins 50HP same as maramu
-some sloop made. Not very popular.

Super maramu
-similar to Santorin but larger (53) and 1.5 time the space. (no sloop)
in addition:
-U shaped galley
-washer/dryer + dishwasher
-from 89 to 98
-Perkins 68 to 80HP
-price range 280 / 350 k Euro

Super Maramu 2000
-improvement to SM.
-99 to 2005 (almost 400 made)
-Perkins 80 to 100HP
-price range 350 to +++ k Euro

Condition and options (many available) will make the price.

They are all great boats. I only know happy owners. Amel is a very serious
company.
This is very uncomplete, but it should help for a start.
All depend what you are looking for, and how much you want to spend.

For info, I presently know an excellent Santorin for sale (French flag VAT
paid).

sincerely
Georges Pellegrini





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: SuperMaramu vs Maramu vs Santorin.

abulerhum <dji314@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "uno.genesis" <uno.genesis@...> wrote:

I am planning to buy an Amel, and I wonder if some one could tell
me what are the main differences on Supermaramu, Maramu and Santorin
considering 45'and ketch rigging. The pros and cons.
Thaks in advance

I will sumarize quickly, so it will be very uncomplete.
Maramu and Santorin are of the same size (46 ft), Super maramu is 53ft.
There are many difference between Maramu and Santorin.
main differences are:
Maramu:
-line shaft
-3 manual rolling sails
-made until 89
-price range 100 / 150k Euro

Santorin
-Amel type transmission (C)
-Genoa and main electric furling. Artimon manual
-from 89 to 97 (140 made)
-improved hull
-winged ballast
-price range 200 / 250 k Euro
-Perkins 50HP same as maramu
-some sloop made. Not very popular.

Super maramu
-similar to Santorin but larger (53) and 1.5 time the space. (no sloop)
in addition:
-U shaped galley
-washer/dryer + dishwasher
-from 89 to 98
-Perkins 68 to 80HP
-price range 280 / 350 k Euro

Super Maramu 2000
-improvement to SM.
-99 to 2005 (almost 400 made)
-Perkins 80 to 100HP
-price range 350 to +++ k Euro

Condition and options (many available) will make the price.

They are all great boats. I only know happy owners. Amel is a very serious company.
This is very uncomplete, but it should help for a start.
All depend what you are looking for, and how much you want to spend.

For info, I presently know an excellent Santorin for sale (French flag VAT paid).

sincerely
Georges Pellegrini


SuperMaramu vs Maramu vs Santorin.

uno.genesis <uno.genesis@...>
 

I am planning to buy an Amel, and I wonder if some one could tell
me what are the main differences on Supermaramu, Maramu and Santorin
considering 45'and ketch rigging. The pros and cons.
Thaks in advance


My Water Maker Alarm Control Panel & Blue Seas Multimeter

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hello everyone:

I just posted a picture in the watermaker folder showing the control panel I built for my EC
sensor with a 110 decibel sonalert, mute/arm switch with LED indicating power on and
alarm
condition. I currently have the EC alarm limit set at 500 microSiemens/cm. Any salinity
more than that will alarm. The alarm sounds at each start up for about 2-4 minutes
(depending on how long the system has been shut down), so I mute the alarm until salinity
is
below 500 and the alarm silences, then I place the switch in the up position (what I call the
arm position) so that any future alarms during production of water will instantly sound the
sonalert.

I really like the Blue Seas Multimeter. It was easy to install and very accurate. I installed it
on the incoming line so that if I have a concern about the power I can leave all ciruits off
while I verify that I have correct power attached. You can select hertz/watts/amps/
voltage. It is amazing how low the voltage is on some docks. The picture posted shows
only the Dessalator watermaker running at pressure and consuming 2560 watts of energy.

I can supply a schematic of my installation for anyone interested.

Gary

Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335


Watermaker TDS and RIB

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Dear Ian and Judy,
My watermaker has done about 255 hours. We use it for all our onboard
water. I bought the DM1 model TDS and now I wish I had the DM2 as it
never occurred to me that the screen on the DM1 would be so tiny that
it very hard to see the x10 reading flashing when the machine is
turned on.You will need the one to fit 3/8 ths inch tubing if you have
the 160 ltr ph model.
Incidentally if you are about to order the RIB ask them to fit an
extra handle either side in front of the thwart so peole sitting
forward have something to hold on to. They did this for me ,no charge.

Good luck, Anne and John SM319


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Maker

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Gary, I have just printed some of your very useful photos on changing the membranes. Is yours a 60lph or 160 lph system? How many hours did you get out of your membranes before you renewed them? Cheers, Ian Jenkins SM 302


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] watermaker,TDS meter

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Dear John and Anne, Thanks for another good tip.We are in Blighty for the summer so have promptly been online to ro-man.Their prices look good, tho I'm not sure of they sell the membranes we would like to carry as spares.
Incidentally, how many hours have you on your watermaker? Fair winds, Ian and Judy, SM 302.

From: "John and Anne on Bali Hai" <hollamby@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] watermaker,TDS meter
Date: Thu, 08 Jun 2006 09:10:18 -0000

There seems to be no doubt that the dessalateur salinity detector is
non functioning.A cheap and easy solution is to fit a simple TDS meter
in the output line.Such a meter is sold by an American company
tdsmeter.com and also sold in the UK ro-man.com for 23.50.
It is very small and has two sensors. I did not use the "in" sensor
and put the "out" sensor in the blue output line which can be found
behind the wooden cover at the front ot the big cockpit locker. This
blue pipe is easily cut with a razor knife and the ends pushed in as
far as they will go into the sensor. The wires from the sensors are
connected to the meter with a plug which is quite hard to pull out.
Once removed the plug can be pushed through the small gap created by
removing the screws holding the panel in place in the galley. The
meter is held in place with velcro.
The actual meter is only 3x2x0.75 inches with a very small screen.It
is powered by two button cells and stays on for about 20-30 seconds
when the on button is pushed. It does not have an alarm. It is sold
either with fittings for a small or a larger tube which is needed for
my 160ltr ph watermaker.Make sure that the tubes are pushed fully in
and the do a freshwater flush of the membranes to make sure there are
no leaks before replacing the coverboard.
I used it yesterday for the first time and got an initial reading of
over 9,000 ppm which soon went down to about 360ppm which is better
than Maltese mains water.
Incidentally I have followed Olivier's advice and never sterilised or
pickled the membranes which are still delivering 160 ltr. ph. even
though the machine stands idle for about five months a year. We do
however always flush it with product water after use if it is going to
stand idle for more than a few days. We never take on shore water and
rely totally on this machine.
With the benefit of hind sight I should have put both sensors in the
product out line !

Best wishes to all, Anne and John, SM 319









Yahoo! Groups Links







Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] ais "RADAR"

Horst Pause <horst@...>
 

Available from Compass24.com at £206.96 inc. VAT - ref 113430



________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of eric
Sent: 12 June 2006 03:07
To: amelyachtowners@...; tartansailing@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] ais "RADAR"



Hi,

I just finished installing this AIS "radar" unit on my boat and it works
great.

It only took 2 hours to install. I believe it is a very worthwhile
investment

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

http://www.allgadgets.co.uk/ag/product.asp?pf%5Fid=AG3928 <http://www.allgadgets.co.uk/ag/product.asp?pf%5Fid=AG3928>
<http://www.allgadgets.co.uk/ag/product.asp?pf%5Fid=AG3928&dept%5Fid=7 <http://www.allgadgets.co.uk/ag/product.asp?pf%5Fid=AG3928&dept%5Fid=7> >
&dept%5Fid=7

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


ais "RADAR"

eric freedman
 

Hi,

I just finished installing this AIS "radar" unit on my boat and it works
great.

It only took 2 hours to install. I believe it is a very worthwhile
investment

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





http://www.allgadgets.co.uk/ag/product.asp?pf%5Fid=AG3928
<http://www.allgadgets.co.uk/ag/product.asp?pf%5Fid=AG3928&dept%5Fid=7>
&dept%5Fid=7


Water Maker Power Draw & Motor Fire

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Dear Yves:

Thank you for being the first to bring to our attention the problems associated with the
salinity sensor on the Dessalator water maker.

Your post about the motor fire doesn't specify if this was the high pressure pump motor or
the low pressure pump motor that burned. Can you please clarify? Was there any wire
charring?

As you can see from my previous post, based on my measurements last week, a 20 amp
circuit breaker is adequate for the entire system to operate at pressure. Additionally each
pump is individually protected by a circuit breaker. The high pressure pump has a 25 amp
circuit breaker and the low pressure pump has a 5 amp circuit breaker (see photo section
for water maker electrical box component labels).

It doesn't quite make sense to have a total system CB of 20 amps and an individual motor
CB of 25 amps.

Regards, Gary Silver
s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000
Hull 3 335

in the
amelyachtowners@...

I think it is important to advise you, who have got a DESSALATOR watermaker, that I
nearly had fire in by boat.
The 220 V. motor, having no electrical protection, burned.
Somebody said, on this forum, that the line circuit breaker was not big enough and was
contemplating to replace it by a bigger one; I would suggest not to do that. If a breaker
trips it is probably because the motor is faulty and takes too much power when starting or
blocking. It is a good thing that it tripped; mine didn't. Anyway the breaker in the
switchboard is there to protect the line / cable and not the motor which should have, like
all other appliances (charger, air conditioning, fans…), a specific protection adapted to its
way of working. DESSALATOR water makers have none.
Be careful !!

Yves MARTIN d'AIGUEPERSE
`'BLUE MARINE''
SM N° 311





mcymabm@...
------------------------------------------

Faites un voeu et puis Voila ! www.voila.fr



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Water Maker Salinity Sensor is Not Hooked up to Anything

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

I have spent more than 40 hours drawing complete schematics and logic diagrams for the
Dessalator water maker Control Board on my Amel SM 2000 , Hull # 335. I have verified
that the salinity sensor is wired to the circuit board on pin 11 and pin 12 of plug # 2 (see
the photo section for a component labeled photo of this board).

I HAVE VERIFIED THAT PIN 11 OF THIS BOARD IS NOT CONNECTED TO ANYTHING. PIN 12
GOES TO GROUND BUT THE SALINITY SENSOR THUS CONNECTED IS AN INCOMPLETE
CIRCUIT AND IS NOT FUNCTIONAL. FURTHERMORE, AS CURRENTLY CONFIGURED I CAN
NOT DETERMINE ANY WAY TO MAKE THE SALINITY SENSOR SYSTEM FUNCTIONAL. I CAN
ONLY CONCLUDE THAT THE SALINITY SENSOR ON MY WATERMAKER IS A SHAM
INSTALLATION.

I URGE EVERY AMEL OWNER TO INSPECT THEIR DESSALATOR WATERMAKER CIRCUIT
BOARD. IF YOUR CIRCUIT BOARD IS THE SAME ONE AS DEPICTED IN THE PHOTO SECTION
AND THE SALINITY SENSOR IS WIRED TO PLUG 2, PINS 11 AND 12 THEN YOU CAN BE
ASSURED THAT THE SALINITY SENSOR IS NOT FUNCTIONAL IN ANY WAY.

Another way to determine if your salinity sensor is functional is to see if your system
changes to "good quality" and green LED light at the 55 second to 65 second mark. If it
does then the salinity sensor is NOT functional. The timing function of the control board
determines the start up sequence and does function for high pressure (overpressure) shut
down of the system. No other sensing inputs to the board are functional. It takes about 3
to 4 minutes for the TDS creep to come down to good quality water after system start up.
This brief period of bad water production is of no consequence when compared to the
major volume of water production that follows.

I urge all owners to install a continuous EC (electrical conductivity) monitor with alarm
funciton on the product water line of their water maker. If you do this you will soon find
that the high EC alarm will sound for the first 3 - 4 minutes after startup I have installed a
mute switch in the alarm relay line so that I can monitor the start up sequence with the the
alarm muted and when the EC drops to 450 microSiemens/cm (about 500 ppm TDS) I can
"arm" the alarm by throwing the switch to allow the alarm to sound the second EC goes
over 500 mSiemens/cm.

Dessalator and the Dessalator UK rep have intimated that Amel made this type of
installation. But since the wiring inside the electrical box was undoubtedly made by
Dessalator and not Amel, and Amel has represented all along that the salinity sensor
system was functional, I believe this sham installation was unknown to Amel. The
integrity with which Amel has always conducted itself leads me to believe that this fraud
was NOT perpetrated by Amel. I don't fault Rod Boreham, the UK representative for
Dessalator, as he was just passing along what Dessalator was telling him.

You now know the truth about the salinity sensor on our Dessalator water maker.

Your opposing opinions are welcome. I would like nothing more than to be proven wrong
on this issue.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona (currently on the hard in Jolly Harbor Antiqua)
Hull #335