Date   

Re: SSB Ground

 

Joerg,

I am no SSB expert. Sometimes I think there is as much art to "fine-tuning" an SSB system as there is science. Maybe you need advice from one of those "artists."

You want to be careful in connecting anything that is connected to the bonding system and I believe your fuel tank is bonded. If so, connecting to it will connect you to everything that is bonded. Several SSB experts that I know suggest using resin to attach copper foil to the inside of the hull below the waterline to increase the ground area. Check the area I shaded which is inside your watertight steering compartment. I believe this is the actual hull rather than a false bottom. This area should be close enough to your Tuner to connect. Maybe covering this area with copper foil will give you a better ground. 
image.png

--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar

On Thu, Jan 30, 2020 at 8:59 AM Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io <jhe1313=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
On my boat, I have the Amel provided SSB installation with the whip antenna and 2 dynaplates on the skeg as ground.  I've participated in the MedNet a bit over the last couple of years and have noticed that I often can hear boats yet they cannot hear me or can hear only a weak signal.  More often then not, my transmission seems to come in weak.  I have spoken to a number of SSB experts in the last couple of years and made some modifications to the installation which have been somewhat successful.  I still think that I my SSB creates a weaker signal than most others.  I've now spoken to another expert here on the US West Coast who suggests to increase the amount of ground the boat has by connecting more metal inside the boat to the ground system.  I'm thinking of connecting the fuel tank to the SSB ground, for example.  The connection would be by 7 cm wide copper tape - so it's not an easy thing to do as the fuel tank and the Antenna tuner are separated by a watertight bulkhead.  Has anyone done this or done something else that has helped?  

Many thanks for any advice!  Cheers Joerg

Joerg Esdorn
A55 #53, Kincsem



Re: Steyr motor turbocharger complete

Mark & Debbie Mueller
 

Sorry I have not responded sooner, have been off the boat without internet for a bit.  On the Volvo D3 – 110 you can see the round vacuum actuator attached to a rod that leads up to an eccentric or cam on the turbo.  Although Volvo calls this a variable geometry actuator, fancy terminology for a way to change the angle of the blades to change the amount of boost pressure as engine load changes.  Mine was sticking and giving an engine error code.  Virtually every company I talked with said the turbo had to be rebuilt.  I found a very helpful Volvo dealership that sent me the attached service bulletin.  I sprayed the actuator and eccentric then worked both back and forth with a screwdriver to free it up, my problem was solved.  This may be the issue you are having. 


--
Mark Mueller
Brass Ring  A54


Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage

 

Thanks, Olivier!

I took your photo and added it to the other photos I had. I hope that together these photos help others understand the exhaust system after SM #100. Corrective or Additional comments are welcome. The following is available in PDF and JPG format.
image.png


On Wed, Jan 29, 2020 at 9:24 PM Beaute Olivier via Groups.Io <atlanticyachtsurvey=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Hello Mike,

your SM 23 did not have the rubber flap mounted on a stainless steel cylinder box.
This system came later probably around hull 100.
If your system has not been modified since original, your exhaust through hull system is just a GRP tube bonded to the hull, where the exhaust hose is glued into with silicone filler.

The rubber flap system has been installed on SMs (since hull 100) and on AMEL 54, 55, 64, 50 and 60 (not Santorins).

The plastic mufflers have been installed on SMs with Yanmar engines, all the Perkins and Volvo engines have (originally) stainless steel mufflers.

Mike, if you want to install the rubber flap system, you need to make sure the GRP through hull tube is the same diameter as the bigger diameter of the stainless steel cylinder.

Hope the attached picture will help and show those who have never seen this part (although they have it).

Olivier


--
CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School
Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 
   
View My Training Calendar


SSB Ground

Joerg Esdorn
 

On my boat, I have the Amel provided SSB installation with the whip antenna and 2 dynaplates on the skeg as ground.  I've participated in the MedNet a bit over the last couple of years and have noticed that I often can hear boats yet they cannot hear me or can hear only a weak signal.  More often then not, my transmission seems to come in weak.  I have spoken to a number of SSB experts in the last couple of years and made some modifications to the installation which have been somewhat successful.  I still think that I my SSB creates a weaker signal than most others.  I've now spoken to another expert here on the US West Coast who suggests to increase the amount of ground the boat has by connecting more metal inside the boat to the ground system.  I'm thinking of connecting the fuel tank to the SSB ground, for example.  The connection would be by 7 cm wide copper tape - so it's not an easy thing to do as the fuel tank and the Antenna tuner are separated by a watertight bulkhead.  Has anyone done this or done something else that has helped?  

Many thanks for any advice!  Cheers Joerg

Joerg Esdorn
A55 #53, Kincsem


Re: Steyr motor turbocharger complete

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Mike,

I wont be on the boat for a few days but next time out I will check. I just bought the product at an auto supply shop. I was strongly warned by a Volvo agent (who could not help wit the problem) not to spray it into the turbo but that is not difficult as the waste gate shaft is external. However what the product does is remove wax like build up that occurs over time in petrol carburetors and I cant see that harming a turbo. However I keep it out in case. Because it was so spectacularly successful in freeing my waste gate I would suspect we are dealing with a similar build up. It is the only product I have found that works.

Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl 

On 30 January 2020 at 15:26 "Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)" <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Hi Danny,

Do you know who manufactures and/or supplies the carbo clean product you use? I've found quite a variety online.

Thanks,
Mike
SV Trilogy - SM23
Opua, NZ


Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Merci for this Olivier,

I hope Amel have stocks of them because I suspect there may be a run on them.

Kind Regards

Danny

SM 299

Ocean Pearl


On 30 January 2020 at 16:22 "Beaute Olivier via Groups.Io" <atlanticyachtsurvey@...> wrote:

Hello Mike,

your SM 23 did not have the rubber flap mounted on a stainless steel cylinder box.
This system came later probably around hull 100.
If your system has not been modified since original, your exhaust through hull system is just a GRP tube bonded to the hull, where the exhaust hose is glued into with silicone filler.

The rubber flap system has been installed on SMs (since hull 100) and on AMEL 54, 55, 64, 50 and 60 (not Santorins).

The plastic mufflers have been installed on SMs with Yanmar engines, all the Perkins and Volvo engines have (originally) stainless steel mufflers.

Mike, if you want to install the rubber flap system, you need to make sure the GRP through hull tube is the same diameter as the bigger diameter of the stainless steel cylinder.

Hope the attached picture will help and show those who have never seen this part (although they have it).

Olivier


 


 


Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Thank you so much! This makes a lot of sense now... quite a bit different than what I was picturing.

I believe I have a 4" (101.6mm) hose fitted on the hull. Does anyone know the bigger diameter of the Amel flap box (yellow arrow in Olivier's photo)?

I think this will do wonders in keeping the ocean out.

Many thanks,
Mike Longcor
SV Trilogy - SM23
Opua, NZ


Re: New companionway lock source

David Wallace
 

Keep checking around. I had two copies made at a little locksmith stall on the street in Loreto, Baja Sur, Mexico, so you never know...


On Jan 29, 2020, at 4:15 PM, Arlo <svplanb@...> wrote:

On Mon, Jan 20, 2020 at 04:48 PM, Nicolas Klene wrote:
HI Arlo
 with the pictures and the référence I will try to inquire here in France and come back to you .


nick
--
Nicolas Klene
DarNico
SM2K # 471
In Marseille

 Thanks Nick!


Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage

Beaute Olivier
 

Hello Mike,

your SM 23 did not have the rubber flap mounted on a stainless steel cylinder box.
This system came later probably around hull 100.
If your system has not been modified since original, your exhaust through hull system is just a GRP tube bonded to the hull, where the exhaust hose is glued into with silicone filler.

The rubber flap system has been installed on SMs (since hull 100) and on AMEL 54, 55, 64, 50 and 60 (not Santorins).

The plastic mufflers have been installed on SMs with Yanmar engines, all the Perkins and Volvo engines have (originally) stainless steel mufflers.

Mike, if you want to install the rubber flap system, you need to make sure the GRP through hull tube is the same diameter as the bigger diameter of the stainless steel cylinder.

Hope the attached picture will help and show those who have never seen this part (although they have it).

Olivier


Re: Steyr motor turbocharger complete

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Hi Danny,

Do you know who manufactures and/or supplies the carbo clean product you use? I've found quite a variety online.

Thanks,
Mike
SV Trilogy - SM23
Opua, NZ


Re: Super Maramu Main Mast Furling foil Sheered

John Clark
 

Hi Karen,
   Excellent write up. I did s similar repair on Annie (SM37) and agree 100% to use a reinforcing tube for the bolt.  I wound up using JB-Weld in a similar fashion to regular epoxy as you suggested but did not fill the foil with it.  The key as you said is to distribute the load to avoid point sources of stress.  Annie's foil is original and has 3 circumnavigations....but also attentive previous owners so there was only play between the foil and the coupling before I got to fix it. I do question the epoxy mix you used....I tried it and as you suggested I thickened it with mayonnaise.....but it got very lumpy and not well organized....so I figured I over added the mayonnaise and thus thinning was in order so I added some peanut butter...  I don't know what kind of epoxy you used but I could never get mine to work with the mayonnaise and peanut butter.   

   FYI about a year later I, the bad owner, in a moment of carelessness tried to furl the mainsail with a pretty solid breeze and the coupling failed before the foil.  We were downwinding into a channel lines with rock jetties and had a series of turns coming up so I decided to switch to motor and didn't think about the point of sail and wind....and snapped the coupling.  (Amel Martinique had a new one in a week for us) The repaired foil was perfectly fine.   I wonder if Amel engineered the coupling as the sacrificial point of failure?  Important consideration if one were to have one made locally as I was...

Regards,  John
SV Annie SM 37
Brunswick GA....hoping to soon be in the USVI  ;)
  

On Tue, Jan 28, 2020 at 9:52 PM Karen Smith via Groups.Io <karenharmonie=yahoo.com@groups.io> wrote:
Here is the detailed write up, of what we did, when we had this issue a year ago. We are quite happy with it!  Amel Mainsail Foil Repair




Re: New companionway lock source

Arlo
 

On Mon, Jan 20, 2020 at 04:48 PM, Nicolas Klene wrote:
HI Arlo
 with the pictures and the référence I will try to inquire here in France and come back to you .


nick
--
Nicolas Klene
DarNico
SM2K # 471
In Marseille

 Thanks Nick!


Re: Deck Repairs to Amel Mango

Arlo
 
Edited

We have a mango, hull # 46 from 1985 and the same cracks... i plan to use a dremmel and open it up a little, then do a standard gelcoat repair with west epoxy fairing compound and paint with awlgrip primer and paint and and see how they do....I personally love the teak deck look so I dont plan to remove it. I have seen  Davids mango hull number 44, I believe where the PO removed the teak look and it came out looking great...so that is always a backup plan for us...


Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage

Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy)
 

Thanks Joel, Bill, and everyone who has offered ideas on this topic. It's all been very helpful as I work toward a solution. I'll be taking a close look inside the injection elbow, stainless muffler, and the cylinder shaped exhaust box near the thru hull. The rubber flap is still somewhat of a mystery... if replacement is recommended, is there a recommended part source (Amel?) and procedure? I'm not so much worried about accessing it but securing it properly. Is one edge of the rubber flap fixed to the inside surface of the box right where the smaller hose comes in? Held in place with just some adhesive/sealant or something more? Or does the flap have a rigid border/frame to it that gets bonded somewhere in the middle of the exhaust box? My rubber flap is not only long gone but that whole cylinder box and reducing coupling is non-original for my boat. I don't want to re-do it the wrong way.

Any advice for getting back to the Amel standard regarding this anti-return flap is still welcomed.

Danny - I think your way of accessing it makes sense. Definitely not the easiest place to access in the engine room (or the hardest!). Also probably best done while dry unless you're floating in a swimming pool.

Regards,
Mike
SV Trilogy - SM23
Opua, NZ


Re: Deck Repairs to Amel Mango

Kaplan,Andre
 

Charles
I have a 1988 Mango and I would be very interested in your experience with resurfacing the deck. Any info you have would be appreciated
BR
Andre Kaplan
kaplan@...
Renaissance 2000
Mango 71 88


On Nov 12, 2019, at 4:53 PM, Charles Bell via Groups.Io <shipbldr2000@...> wrote:


*** Attention: This is an external email. Use caution responding, opening attachments or clicking on links. ***
Hello Ian,

We are resurfacing the decks of Mango #29 right now.

We sanded off the loose "molded-teak" and have sealed with a 2-part high-build sealant. Then we will top with some sort of a surface treatment / non-slip. 

The contractor we are using has done several boats with the same technique. 

I will dig up more information about the steps and materials we are using. Feel free to reach out to me if I don't get back to you quickly enough.


Charles


Re: Main outhaul SN

Gary Silver
 

Hi Bernd:

The Delrin "spacer/mounting" blocks are locally fabricated and/or "sort of" available from Amel.  When I ordered a couple of sets from Amel to replaced my cracked ones, they arrived but I quickly realized, that on my boat SM #335 at least, that the top and bottom spacer/mounting blocks are NOT identical.  They are mirror images of each other (as noted by ligning up the mounting bolt holes in the gearbox and the "flats" where they attach to the mast.  I couldn't seem to make Amel realize the predicament and their error even with detailed labeled photos.  SAV insisted they only had the one piece, all identical, and not mirror images (i.e. a top and a bottom part) so as to match the mounting holes.  I solved my problem by drilling new mounting holes to match the holes in the gearbox housing.  

A modification I made, while I was at it, was to mill a drain channel in the bottom surface of the top spacer/mounting block so that water, that accumulated in the top of the gearbox in the reservoir created by fitting the spacer/mounting block, could drain rather than puddle.

All the best, 

Gary S. Silver
s/v Liahona
Amel SM 2000 # 335
Puerto Del Rey Marina,  Puerto Rico


Re: Masthead Tri Colour LOPOLIGHT A54

Teun BAAS
 

Morning Martin,

 

Will be back in PHX next week – pls send me your Email address to teun@...

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

On the hard in COOMERA (near BRISBANE) QLD AUSTRALIA

January 29, 2020 09:43:03

 

USA cell: +1 832 477 8842

AUSTRALIA cell: +61 5951 8909

 

You can follow AMELIT via this link: https://forecast.predictwind.com/tracking/display/AMELIT

 

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of luvkante via Groups.Io
Sent: Saturday, January 25, 2020 06:24
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Masthead Tri Colour LOPOLIGHT A54

 

Teun, 

gladly awaiting your pics.

My masthead situation should be similar to yours, Kaj had the same FLIR masthead camera as I.

Martin


Re: New owners of Amel Super Maramu # 331

amelforme
 

Congratulations Bill and Joanna on the acquisition of CLOUDSTREET. I was the first owner of this boat and she was then called LORADO, a contraction of my best friends first/given names. I employed it as Amel’s sales demonstration boat for North America and enjoyed sailing it up and down the east coast exhibiting at boat shows. When I sold it to the second owner, it was stuck by lightning a hour after we closed the deal. We went back for a Champagne toast and the masthead tri-color was laying on the trunk cabin, smoking. It was repaired perfectly by our Amel trained serviceman Ray Eaton who also had a degree in electrical engineering. The day after it was fully repaired, it got struck by lightning again, while in the very same spot it was the first time. This lays to rest the old saw that lightning never strikes twice… It was repaired again and the folks I sold it to did not appreciate my humor when I tongue in cheek suggested that they name it STRIKE THREE. Somehow the fact that it was hit by lightning became my fault. I stayed in contact with subsequent owners who deeply enjoyed the boat and I was happy to help them with the challenges that boat ownership entails. Hope you got to interact directly with Joe and Tracey whom I also sold it to and enjoyed my relationship with them a great deal . They are good people and the kind of folks you would like to buy a boat from, for certain. Not to worry about the lightning as the boat was put right as good as new with no structural damage at all and never a related problem. If you enjoy it as much as everyone else has, you are in for a great adventure.

Good luck and All the Best, Joel

      

       JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of william reynolds
Sent: Friday, January 24, 2020 3:07 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: [AmelYachtOwners] New owners

 

We have recently bought Cloudstreet, a 2001 SM 2000. 
We have been Amel web followers for several years and just jumped in.
You may have met us. We have cruised the Eastern Caribbean for the past 10 years on Baidarka, 
a 40 foot Perry designed cutter. Time to move up.  W`e're outfitting in Martinique and are looking forward to continued 
cruising to ???
Best
Bill Reynolds and Joanna Roth (Ex-Alaskans)


Re: Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage

amelforme
 

All early Super Maramu had metal mufflers, don’t recall the cut off when they switched to plastic. Olivier, do you know when the change was made? Jacques Carteau explained the reason for the change as noise/vibration abatement as the plastic mufflers would ‘pant’/flex and eliminate some noise/vibration where the metal ones wouldn’t. He noted that they wouldn’t corrode either. He didn’t appreciate my saying that they will melt if you lose the raw water pump.

 

If you still have a metal muffler, it’s a good idea to inspect the interior and especially the bottom on a regular basis, at least annually.  When they fail it makes an awful mess of the engine compartment.

       

 

            JOEL F. POTTER-CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST~L.L.C.

                                           THE  EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY

    UNSURPASSED AMEL MARKETING EXPERIENCE AND PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

                                   Office 954-462-5869  Cell 954-812-2485

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Tuesday, January 28, 2020 3:56 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io Notification <main@amelyachtowners.groups.io>
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Amel's suggestion to run the Volvo D3-110 (A54) daily while on passage

 

Mike,

 

You wrote: Hi Bill - do you mean that last section of exhaust looks modified/non-Amel or just generally speaking?

The answers to your questions are yes & yes.

 

See the attached as it may help you. Your SM, when new, probably had the plastic Vetus water muffler, not a stainless steel muffler. I assume there are previous owner modifications.

 

 

 

 

--

Image removed by sender.

CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School

Address: 720 Winnie, Galveston Island, Texas 77550 

Image removed by sender. Image removed by sender. Image removed by sender. 

 

View My Training Calendar

Image removed by sender.

 

On Tue, Jan 28, 2020 at 2:45 PM CW Bill Rouse via Groups.Io <brouse=gmail.com@groups.io> wrote:

Mike

 

I'll send you something directly that will probably help.

 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970

 

On Tue, Jan 28, 2020, 2:16 PM Mike Longcor (SV Trilogy) <svtrilogy53@...> wrote:

Hi Alex,

My understanding of the anti-siphon on the raw water line (between the exit from heat exchanger and input to exhaust elbow), is to prevent continuous water flow (after engine shutdown) through the intake line should something in the line break/leak/disconnect/etc. The design of most raw water pumps prevents this continuous flow as long as the vanes of the impeller are intact. The flow of water out of the anti-siphon while the engine is running provides a good visual check that 1. your anti-siphon is working and not clogged and 2. that your engine is getting a good supply of raw water for cooling. I'm not sure I follow Oliver's comment about water standing above the engine for long periods because I'm pretty sure the water would find it's way down to the muffler with or without a siphon break at the top. Again, this assumes your raw water pump/impeller is fully functional, and those certainly fail from time to time. So a working anti-siphon is a good way to ensure your engine doesn't flood and/or your boat doesn't sink.

I may be wrong on some of this so if anyone has any other input please share.

Also... I'm still searching for any information on the rubber anti-return flap at the end of the exhaust line near the through hull. Has anyone bought, replaced, or fabricated something like this for their Amel?

Regards,
Mike
SV Trilogy - SM23
Opua, NZ


Re: A54 engine anti siphon vent

amelforme
 

Over the decades with Amel, I sometimes sat in on part of the week long schooling each new Amel owner received as well as the somewhat shorter training I got on the three new ones I owned. The Amel guys always said to listen for the anti-siphon
"Clear it's throat" on start up and then 
" Mind it's manners" all the rest of the time.
A clever and catchy way to remember this important item.

JOEL F. POTTER
CRUISING YACHT SPECIALIST LLC
THE EXPERIENCED AMEL GUY
Office 954-462-5869 

On Jan 29, 2020, at 6:45 AM, Porter McRoberts via Groups.Io <portermcroberts@...> wrote:

Very important and astute observation. We do the same. Luckily we have little ladies who get paid for a weekly clean out of the salt water system. Also, first time I started the engine with Bill Rouse on board he reflexively pointed me to that siphon to look and listen to the stream in the starboard cockpit drain. Just yet another reason I’m so thankful we did the Amel school. 
Porter
A54-152. IBIS


On Jan 28, 2020, at 8:01 PM, Sv Garulfo <svgarulfo@...> wrote:


Hi all,

Over the few years we have owned Garulfo, we came to notice that the anti siphon vent for the engine that exits in the starboard cockpit drain hole was a good tell tale of a restriction in the raw water line: 

when everything is clear (intake thru hull, vetus strainer, transmission heat exchanger, impeller, etc), the stream of water out of the vent line into the drain is continuous and silent,

when the flow is restricted, the initial spurting of water and exhaust gaz continues to the point of becoming annoying and I know i need to go and clean something. After clearing the line, the flow is back to normal. 


Do other A54 owners share the same experience? Do my conclusions make sense, or is it some kind of coincidence?

Any feedback welcome!

Thomas
GARULFO 
A54-122
Ua Huka, Marquesas, French Polynesia