Date   

Re: take of the list

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Done. I have deleted you.

Regards
JL



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Lundstrom" <linneasail@...>
wrote:

Hi,



We sold our Amel a couple of years ago, and our next boat will be a
catamaran, so I would like to be taken off this list. How do I go
about?



Thanks,



Walter Lundstrom









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] keel maintenance, cutless

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Pat, in the older Maramu with a prop alternator there
is a grease gun that lubes the prop shaft... I don't
think your SM has one.

Hope you get wet quick. We are on our way to the Med
due to the traffic issues at the P canal.
Richard on Challenge
--- sailw32@aol.com wrote:

Richard, You advised in your last posting to "check
the grease gun in the
engine'' what are you referring to?I'm on the hard
will be replacing the shaft
bearing this week.Thanks,Pat/Shenanigans SM123



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight?
Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]



____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ


take of the list

Lundstrom <linneasail@...>
 

Hi,



We sold our Amel a couple of years ago, and our next boat will be a
catamaran, so I would like to be taken off this list. How do I go about?



Thanks,



Walter Lundstrom


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] keel maintenance, cutless

Patrick McAneny
 

Richard, You advised in your last posting to "check the grease gun in the
engine'' what are you referring to?I'm on the hard will be replacing the shaft
bearing this week.Thanks,Pat/Shenanigans SM123



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] keel maintenance, cutless

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Dave, grind off the problem area then use West Sys.
with barrier coat following the fix. Check the prop
shaft for wear you should be able to take the shaft
out w/o issue when you replace the bearing. Also
check the grease gun in the engine to be sure it is
working well. Good luck
Richard on Challenge SM 209 in BVI


--- Dave_Benjamin <dave_benjamin@yahoo.com> wrote:

Hi all,

Maramu #29 is our first boat with a cast iron keel.
It's also our
first non US built boat. Any tips on type of epoxy
to use or other
info is greatly appreciated. We plan to haul next
week.

The cutless bearing will need to replaced as well.
It looks like there
is enough surface exposed to remove without
decoupling the shaft. Have
other Maramu owners been able to do it that way?

Thanks!




____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ


keel maintenance, cutless

Dave_Benjamin
 

Hi all,

Maramu #29 is our first boat with a cast iron keel. It's also our
first non US built boat. Any tips on type of epoxy to use or other
info is greatly appreciated. We plan to haul next week.

The cutless bearing will need to replaced as well. It looks like there
is enough surface exposed to remove without decoupling the shaft. Have
other Maramu owners been able to do it that way?

Thanks!


Re: Amel Stainless Steel Anchor Shank Bend

Stephan Regulinski
 

While it is true that manufacturing by carving a piece out of solid
metal potentially has advantages over other processes (better control
of the molecular properties is one); it is difficult to believe that
this is a relevant fact to the repair of an anchor that has been
forged and welded in its original manufacture.

The anchor is not the only place where we rely on traditional
metal-working techniques. The anchor chain is welded, shackles are
forged, the bow fitting on the Amel is welded, fittings on the
riggings are swaged (a cold forging technique) and on it goes.
Fortunately, all these bits can be observed periodically; an advantage
that we have over the heart valve.

If you want a real life data point, I have bent the stainless plow
delivered on my Amel (#303) twice. The first time, it was bent back
into shape and welded at the points which showed stress from being
bent. That repair produced an anchor strong enough to suffer a second
bending without failure. At that point, I had it repaired again. In
the second repair, it was bent back into shape and then had two plates
welded across the I-beam to create a box-beam. My welder for the
second repair was of the opinion that it was stronger after the second
repair than it was brand new.

Stephan
S/V Delos

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "poirauda" <poirauda@...> wrote:

<<<<<The following email is from WASI>>>>>>>>>>>>>
……. It should take 2 people not much more than 15
minutes and will have absolutely NO negative effects on the
structural
integrity of the anchor....

Ari Grimm
WASI

May I say that I FULLY disagree with Ari Grimm's statement..
In a previous life ( :-) ), I've been involved in manufacturing
artificial heart valves and artificial hearts.. All valves have been
carved into a solid piece of titanium, as all our studies have
proved that both bending and welding the metal will change the
molecular structure and weaken the metal. Cardiac surgery is a place
where the risk factor should be absolutely ZERO..

Now, let's say that the shank is welded to the fluke.. but at a
place where the shank is much larger, and the overall resistance
should be enough..

It is very difficult to assert precisely which level of weakness re-
bending the shank straight will create.. but in doubt I think I will
change my own anchor for a new one.
Stainless steel is beautiful,
but galvanized steel (at least the one used to manufacture anchor's
shanks) is much stronger..

For more information, please have a look at my book:

"The complete anchoring hand book"

http://www.mhprofessional.com/product.php?isbn=0071475087


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Thomson washing machine and Amelyachtowners-Messages

dlm48@...
 

Babelfish should do a 'good enough translation for you to figure out what the text or a web page is saying

http://babelfish.altavista.com/

regards

David

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephan Regulinski <stephreg@yahoo.com>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 5:57 am
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Thomson washing machine and Amelyachtowners-Messages





?Parts for the Australe 3 seem to be easily available on French

and Dutch internet sites, if you can find some way to translate.



Stephan



-



__


RE : RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine

Jean Boucharlat
 

Stephan,



Visual inspection of the board didn’t give any indication of its status and
I do not know of any specialized testing equipment available to laymen like
us. I came to my conclusion only through logical elimination of all probable
causes confirmed by phone discussion of the issue with Jean-Yves Selo (now
retired but, at the time, in the position occupied by Olivier Beauté).



I got the replacement part form Amel but, although the machine was just
about one year old, the manufacturer had already changed the size of the
board (it became about half-size) but, most importantly, had also changed
the connectors. As figuring out the functions of all the wires was way
beyond my capabilities, I had to wait until the boat reached Japan where a
good friend of mine, who is a very capable electronic technician, was able
to sort everything out.



As a consequence, if you order from Amel, I would suggest that you send them
all appropriate data (machine number, year of build, etc.) plus a photo of
the board and its connectors, as well as the physical dimensions of the
board so that they can make sure they get the right part from the
manufacturer.



Good luck and best regards,



Jean Boucharlat
Formerly : Satchimi SM 232

-----Message d'origine-----
De : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Stephan Regulinski
Envoyé : mardi 29 avril 2008 07:05
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Objet : Re: RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine



Jean,

I was hoping for better news, but I am worried that your posting is the
most likely explanation. How did you know the electronic control board
was blown? Is it obvious by inspection; can you test for it; or does it
take specialized test equipment?

Where did you get the replacement part from?

Thanks for taking the time to post.

Kind regards,

Stephan

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Jean Boucharlat"
<jean.boucharlat@...> wrote:

Stephan,



Alternatively, and I do hope this is not the case with you, it could
be the
current frequency. It happened to me in Hawaï where the washing
machine ran
on shore power at 60Hz (as opposed to the European 50Hz it's
designed to
work on) and blew its electronic control board. I had to change the
whole
board, located, if my recollection is correct, at the bottom
right-hand side
of the machine.



Best regards,



Jean Boucharlat

Formerly : Satchimi SM 232



-----Message d'origine-----
De : amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com] De la part de Frank Newton
Envoyé : lundi 28 avril 2008 15:50
À : amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine



Stephan

It could be a voltage issue.

The same happened to me here in one of the Caribbean islands
where the shore voltage was insufficient.

If the problem has manifested itself on shore power try running
off your generator.

Hope this solves your problem.

Best regards,

Frank Newton
Bootlegger of Mann

SM2000 #321

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephan Regulinski [mailto: <mailto:stephreg%40yahoo.com>
stephreg@...]
Sent: 28 April 2008 06:29
To: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine

Does anyone have the repair manual for the Thomson Australe 3 washing
machine (used on the SMM)? Mine will not start. I push the start
button, the red light comes on, then nothing: no water, no mechanical
sounds, no electrical sounds, nada. A few seconds later the red light
goes off.

Stephan
Delos (SMM #303)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine

Stephan Regulinski
 

Jean,

I was hoping for better news, but I am worried that your posting is the
most likely explanation. How did you know the electronic control board
was blown? Is it obvious by inspection; can you test for it; or does it
take specialized test equipment?

Where did you get the replacement part from?

Thanks for taking the time to post.

Kind regards,

Stephan

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Jean Boucharlat"
<jean.boucharlat@...> wrote:

Stephan,



Alternatively, and I do hope this is not the case with you, it could
be the
current frequency. It happened to me in Hawaï where the washing
machine ran
on shore power at 60Hz (as opposed to the European 50Hz it's
designed to
work on) and blew its electronic control board. I had to change the
whole
board, located, if my recollection is correct, at the bottom
right-hand side
of the machine.



Best regards,



Jean Boucharlat

Formerly : Satchimi SM 232



-----Message d'origine-----
De : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Frank Newton
Envoyé : lundi 28 avril 2008 15:50
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine



Stephan

It could be a voltage issue.

The same happened to me here in one of the Caribbean islands
where the shore voltage was insufficient.

If the problem has manifested itself on shore power try running
off your generator.

Hope this solves your problem.

Best regards,

Frank Newton
Bootlegger of Mann

SM2000 #321

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephan Regulinski [mailto: <mailto:stephreg%40yahoo.com>
stephreg@...]
Sent: 28 April 2008 06:29
To: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine

Does anyone have the repair manual for the Thomson Australe 3 washing
machine (used on the SMM)? Mine will not start. I push the start
button, the red light comes on, then nothing: no water, no mechanical
sounds, no electrical sounds, nada. A few seconds later the red light
goes off.

Stephan
Delos (SMM #303)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine

Stephan Regulinski
 

Frank,

I will remember this hint for when I am again abroad in the world of
220/50 cycle. I am currently in the US and have to run the washer off
the genset anyway in order to get 50 cycle power.

Regards,

Stephan



Stephan

It could be a voltage issue.

The same happened to me here in one of the Caribbean islands where the
shore voltage was insufficient. If the problem has manifested itself
on shore power try running off your generator.

Hope this solves your problem.

Best regards,

Frank Newton
Bootlegger of Mann
SM2000 #321


Re: Thomson washing machine and Amelyachtowners-Messages

Stephan Regulinski
 

Anne and John,

Thank you for the advice. It was fun searching through the old
postings (and even finding a bunch of postings that I had written).
Unfortunately, an answer was not to be found. The manual in the files
section is a nice find, since the manual delivered with the boat is in
French and requires consulting my wife every time I need info. The
diagram is actually a bunch of drawings that belong with the users'
manual.

I did find an illustrated parts catalogue on the internet for a model
closely related to the Australe 3, which I will post when I get the
time. Parts for the Australe 3 seem to be easily available on French
and Dutch internet sites, if you can find some way to translate.

Stephan


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John and Anne on Bali Hai"
<annejohn@...> wrote:

Hello there,
If you put the machine in the search box you will find five messages
which are not very helpful. However if you go to "Files" you will find
complete collection of all the messages from the time the Group started
up to Spring 2007. I have never looked at this before because I thought
it was only an index. In fact it is a fount of information well worth
speed reading through to see the vast amount of collective experience
stored in the files.
Thank you, Richard, for putting this all in the files section for easy
reading.
So far as the washing machine manual and also the wiring diagram are
concerned these are also available in the files section. I hope that
this will solve your problem. If not, you might find something if you
Google it in various ways.

Good hunting, Anne and John, SM 319


RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine

Jean Boucharlat
 

Stephan,



Alternatively, and I do hope this is not the case with you, it could be the
current frequency. It happened to me in Hawaï where the washing machine ran
on shore power at 60Hz (as opposed to the European 50Hz it’s designed to
work on) and blew its electronic control board. I had to change the whole
board, located, if my recollection is correct, at the bottom right-hand side
of the machine.



Best regards,



Jean Boucharlat

Formerly : Satchimi SM 232

-----Message d'origine-----
De : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] De la part de Frank Newton
Envoyé : lundi 28 avril 2008 15:50
À : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Objet : RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine



Stephan

It could be a voltage issue.

The same happened to me here in one of the Caribbean islands
where the shore voltage was insufficient.

If the problem has manifested itself on shore power try running
off your generator.

Hope this solves your problem.

Best regards,

Frank Newton
Bootlegger of Mann

SM2000 #321

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephan Regulinski [mailto: <mailto:stephreg%40yahoo.com>
stephreg@yahoo.com]
Sent: 28 April 2008 06:29
To: <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine

Does anyone have the repair manual for the Thomson Australe 3 washing
machine (used on the SMM)? Mine will not start. I push the start
button, the red light comes on, then nothing: no water, no mechanical
sounds, no electrical sounds, nada. A few seconds later the red light
goes off.

Stephan
Delos (SMM #303)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine

Frank Newton <bootlegger@...>
 

Stephan

It could be a voltage issue.

The same happened to me here in one of the Caribbean islands
where the shore voltage was insufficient.

If the problem has manifested itself on shore power try running
off your generator.

Hope this solves your problem.

Best regards,

Frank Newton
Bootlegger of Mann

SM2000 #321

-----Original Message-----
From: Stephan Regulinski [mailto:stephreg@yahoo.com]
Sent: 28 April 2008 06:29
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Thomson Washing Machine


Does anyone have the repair manual for the Thomson Australe 3 washing
machine (used on the SMM)? Mine will not start. I push the start
button, the red light comes on, then nothing: no water, no mechanical
sounds, no electrical sounds, nada. A few seconds later the red light
goes off.

Stephan
Delos (SMM #303)


Thomson washing machine and Amelyachtowners-Messages

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

Hello there,
If you put the machine in the search box you will find five messages
which are not very helpful. However if you go to "Files" you will find
complete collection of all the messages from the time the Group started
up to Spring 2007. I have never looked at this before because I thought
it was only an index. In fact it is a fount of information well worth
speed reading through to see the vast amount of collective experience
stored in the files.
Thank you, Richard, for putting this all in the files section for easy
reading.
So far as the washing machine manual and also the wiring diagram are
concerned these are also available in the files section. I hope that
this will solve your problem. If not, you might find something if you
Google it in various ways.

Good hunting, Anne and John, SM 319


Thomson Washing Machine

Stephan Regulinski
 

Does anyone have the repair manual for the Thomson Australe 3 washing
machine (used on the SMM)? Mine will not start. I push the start
button, the red light comes on, then nothing: no water, no mechanical
sounds, no electrical sounds, nada. A few seconds later the red light
goes off.

Stephan
Delos (SMM #303)


Autohelm linear drive unit

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

I have put a couple of pics in the photos section. These were taken
on my last boat, a 1985 Oyster 435.The drive unit originally had
nylon planetary gears and these had a very limited life. I went to
Autohelm,as it then was pre Raymarine, and bought three sets of spare
gears at a cost (1990) of £12.50 per set,one to replace mine and two
as spares. I could have bought brass ones but they cost £125 per set!
I later sold the other two sets to two cruisers stranded at a couple
of places in the South Pacific and bought brass gears.
Olivier assured me that my boat(2001) has brass gears but it may well
be that earlier models do not. A prudent yottie would check before a
long voyage.
The second pic shows the effect of worn out brushes which could also
cause a stranding. Again spares should be carried on long passages
unless you have two drive units.
Getting the spare brushes was not easy in a faraway location.The
Agents in Australia sent me the wrong ones as Autohelm had changed
motor suppliers and seemingly kept it a secret. A fax to Autohelm
gave me this bit of info adding that they did not carry spares for my
motor. Nor did they tell me who made my motor and their contact info.
Stranded in Vanuatu we were not impressed.

Best wishes, Anne and John SM319


Re: Super Maramu Grounding (Bonding) Theory

Claus von der Heydt <cvdhwoe@...>
 

Hi Everyone,

I just uploaded a file about galvanic corrosion. Maybe it is helpful.

Regards Claus, S/V Jonathan, SM #196

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:

Hi Everyone.

Since Bill & Judy Rouse posted related to their bilge
grounding strap failure I have inspected my strap and found it
intact. My boat is of about the same vintage so I am trying to
figure out why their strap failed, then the AC pump impeller
went to pieces and the relation to the general theory of grounding
(bonding) on the Amel boats.

I would welcome input from everyone in trying to understand the
rather seemingly black art of bonding in sea going vessels.
This is my understanding.
1. The iron keel and all other metallic items that are submersed
in salt water are bonded (connected) to all other metallic items in
the boat that are salt water immersed. This includes the various
pumps, valves, through hulls,engines, transmission, Herth drive,
rudder, etc.
2. These are then bonded to the rudder post to which the
sacrificial zinc anodes are attached.
3. The purpose of bonding is to provide an electrical equipotential
or low resistance path for any stray current to flow to the
sacrificial anodes on the rudder. This stray current may be from
electrical component stray current, marina leakage current or
dissimilar metal induced stray current.
4. a). I believer, but I am not sure, that the bilge bonding
strap is made from solid copper because it connects to such a
large potential current sink (the keel) and lives in a hostile
environment where a cable with a terminal end would not
fair well. b). The engine compartment bonding wires are all tied
together at the bilge copper strap just as a centrally located
tie point.????..
5. Like a wet cell battery, with two dissimilar metals submerged
in an electrolyte solution current flows when a complete circuit
exists. Our boat is a giant wet cell battery with dissimilar metals
submerged in an electrolyte solution. Add to this the additional
hazard of stray current leakage from marina wiring or onboard
electrical appliances and it is no wonder our zinc electrodes go
away so fast.
6. So, causes of increased zinc anode consumption might include:
a) More time in marinas with their well know propensity to have
lots of stray current, b) electrical components onboard the boat
that leak electrical current, such as inverters, electrical appliances,
motors etc.
7. Any item that becomes isolated from the bonding grid by
becoming disconnected or having a high resistance attachment
to the grid due to corrosion of the bonding wire to
protected item joint will no longer be protected by the zinc
sacrificial anodes and will proceed to corrode.

That is my rudimentary understanding of the system. Other
thoughts are welcome.

So Bill, I think the keel becoming disconnected from the bonding
system would probably NOT have led to the problem with the AC
pump and/or sea water manifold. More likely there is a high
resistance connection between those items and the bonding
system or you have additional current leaks. I think it should
be possible to measure for a high resistance connection by
using a digital ohm meter and checking the resistance between
the rudder post in the aft cabin and the pump or pipe you're
interested in.

My time on the boat in marinas is very limited because I
only get on the boat 3 months a year and when I am in the
marina and not on the boat I disconnect from shore power
and use solar panels to keep the batteries up. Six months
of the year the boat is on the hard, My limited exposure
is what I am thinking helped me still have a good bilge
bonding strap. I would have rather had more miles on
the boat by now. I envy you.

Regards, Gary s/v Liahona Antigua


Super Maramu Grounding (Bonding) Theory

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Everyone.

Since Bill & Judy Rouse posted related to their bilge
grounding strap failure I have inspected my strap and found it
intact. My boat is of about the same vintage so I am trying to
figure out why their strap failed, then the AC pump impeller
went to pieces and the relation to the general theory of grounding
(bonding) on the Amel boats.

I would welcome input from everyone in trying to understand the
rather seemingly black art of bonding in sea going vessels.
This is my understanding.
1. The iron keel and all other metallic items that are submersed
in salt water are bonded (connected) to all other metallic items in
the boat that are salt water immersed. This includes the various
pumps, valves, through hulls,engines, transmission, Herth drive,
rudder, etc.
2. These are then bonded to the rudder post to which the
sacrificial zinc anodes are attached.
3. The purpose of bonding is to provide an electrical equipotential
or low resistance path for any stray current to flow to the
sacrificial anodes on the rudder. This stray current may be from
electrical component stray current, marina leakage current or
dissimilar metal induced stray current.
4. a). I believer, but I am not sure, that the bilge bonding
strap is made from solid copper because it connects to such a
large potential current sink (the keel) and lives in a hostile
environment where a cable with a terminal end would not
fair well. b). The engine compartment bonding wires are all tied
together at the bilge copper strap just as a centrally located
tie point.????..
5. Like a wet cell battery, with two dissimilar metals submerged
in an electrolyte solution current flows when a complete circuit
exists. Our boat is a giant wet cell battery with dissimilar metals
submerged in an electrolyte solution. Add to this the additional
hazard of stray current leakage from marina wiring or onboard
electrical appliances and it is no wonder our zinc electrodes go
away so fast.
6. So, causes of increased zinc anode consumption might include:
a) More time in marinas with their well know propensity to have
lots of stray current, b) electrical components onboard the boat
that leak electrical current, such as inverters, electrical appliances,
motors etc.
7. Any item that becomes isolated from the bonding grid by
becoming disconnected or having a high resistance attachment
to the grid due to corrosion of the bonding wire to
protected item joint will no longer be protected by the zinc
sacrificial anodes and will proceed to corrode.

That is my rudimentary understanding of the system. Other
thoughts are welcome.

So Bill, I think the keel becoming disconnected from the bonding
system would probably NOT have led to the problem with the AC
pump and/or sea water manifold. More likely there is a high
resistance connection between those items and the bonding
system or you have additional current leaks. I think it should
be possible to measure for a high resistance connection by
using a digital ohm meter and checking the resistance between
the rudder post in the aft cabin and the pump or pipe you're
interested in.

My time on the boat in marinas is very limited because I
only get on the boat 3 months a year and when I am in the
marina and not on the boat I disconnect from shore power
and use solar panels to keep the batteries up. Six months
of the year the boat is on the hard, My limited exposure
is what I am thinking helped me still have a good bilge
bonding strap. I would have rather had more miles on
the boat by now. I envy you.

Regards, Gary s/v Liahona Antigua


prop upgrade & grounding strap

amel46met
 

To the group & JoeMac4Sail, Most prop manufacturers we have spoken
with ask "what is a shaft alternator?". The few that were familiar
with the alternators were not sure if their props would work. We were
hoping to get info from other Amel owners who have dealt with this, or
if Amel has a factory setup/stock installation. In answer to your
question, Steve Dashew's encyclopedia states he has installed the
Maxi-Prop and while under sail, puts it into reverse gear when he
wants it to charge.

In regards to the grounding strap, did the Maramu 46 come with this
strap and is there a schematic for the bonding/grounding circuits.
Thank you, Tom & Mary Ellen s/v Aphrodite.