Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward bildge water

drdavegoodman
 

Hi Roger;
I do not have any water coming down the mast/mast compression post.
There has been some major rain here in USVI, and no water has gotten
into the forward bilge since I've inserted the bowthruster secure pin.
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
wrote:

Hi Dave

I think I've reported before that I get water in the same place
forward, but it's from rainwater coming down the mast. I've tried all
sorts to stop it, so far without luck. You should find a trail of
water either from the bowthruster or down the mast compression post
(even perhaps behind the trim, which is nasty for rot).

Regards, Roger, Zorba, Mango 28


On 30/06/2007, at 4:05 PM, drdavegoodman wrote:

Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@..., kimberlt <kimberlt@> wrote:

The editor dropped the decimal point . my thruster takes 3/10 of
a liter
of oil.
Eric


-----Original Message-----
From: kimberlt [mailto:kimberlt@]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Gary,
Where are you located?

We rebuilt the bow thruster as we were getting water and oil
coming into
the bilge due to the thruster leaking at the rear seal.
The rebuild is very straight forward if the boat is out of the
water. If
you boat is in the water you can remove it by using the bow thruster
removal tools.
The removal of the thruster is covered in the manual.
Once you have the thruster out turn it upside down to drain the oil.
Having done this remove the prop. Behind this you will find a lip
seal
similar to the one on the prop shaft except smaller. Just pry it out
grease a new one and install it. It can be pushed in very easily. It
appeared Amel uses some blue silicone to hold it in on the outside
surface.
On the thruster's vertical shaft, you will find two foam seals
that are
just removed by hand. Glue two new ones in place. Where the thruster
goes through the hull there is another lip seal held in by two
screws.
Just remove this and install a new one. On top of this seal was
another
spongy disk seal, which we also glued down. Then just fill the
thruster
with point 3 (3 liters) of 90 weight oil.
I believe thrusters vary from boat to boat as Bel Ami, which was
next to
me, took ¾ liter of oil, and has a different mounting
arrangement. My
owner's manual has a good drawing of the cross section of the bow
thruster.

Will you be in the virgins mid February?

Fair winds,
Eric
S/m 376 Kimberlite.

-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Hi Eric:
I saw your boat at Marina Cay in Road Town a couple of weeks ago.
Looked bristol. Could you please describe in detail the bow
thruster seal service process? What do you need to check on the
rudder screws? Do you just need to check that they are tight?
Thanks, Gary Silver Liahona Hull # 335 Sea Cow Bay, Tortola

-- In amelyachtowners@..., kimberlt <kimberlt@o...>
wrote:
Stephan,
We just had our bottom done. It was sanded and we had 2 coats of
pettit
ultima ablative paint applied. We used 5 gallons.
I also replaced the two lip seals for the bow thruster- one on the
thruster shaft and one in the thruster through hull opening and 3
spongy
inserts. You should also replace the wearing out bearing and the 3
seals
on the prop shaft and the sail drive oil. The zincs on the rudder
and
the zinc and bearings on the weed cutter if you have one. Also,
check
the screws in the rudder hinge.
Fair winds,
Eric
SM 376 kimberlite





Yahoo! Groups Sponsor


ADVERTISEMENT

<http://rd.yahoo.com/SIG=12cst830c/
M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/D=eg
roupweb/S=1705065792:HM/EXP=1075093941/A=1945638/R=0/*http:/
www.netflix.
com/Default?mqso=60178383&partid=4116732> click here


<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/
D=egrou
pmail/S=:HM/A=1945638/rand=468978337>

_____

Yahoo! Groups Links
* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@...?
subject=Unsubscribe>


* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Service.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


_____

Yahoo! Groups Links
* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@...?
subject=Unsubscribe>


* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> Service.






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward bilge water

drdavegoodman
 

Eric;
The water was not oily. The boat is a 1998 SM. Location is St.
Thomas, USVI. Since I have placed the securing pin in the
bowthruster, I've had no further water. However, I've not been out
sailing since I discovered the water. Next time I go sailing, I will
be using the bow thruster to exit and enter my dock area. After using
it, I will again secure it with the pin, and will be checking for
water in the forward bilge.
The previous owner performed the Amel recommended modification to
prevent the bowthruster from coming out of the boat, but to my
knowlege has never changed the bowthruster seals. The main engine has
about 900 hours, to give you an idea of how much its been used.
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Dave,

Is the water oily that is in the bilge?

What is the year of your boat?

Is it a super Maramu?

The owners' manual will not help you to change the bow thruster seals.

Maybe I can help you.

where are you located?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of drdavegoodman
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 2:05 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward bildge water



Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@> wrote:

The editor dropped the decimal point . my thruster takes 3/10 of a
liter
of oil.
Eric


-----Original Message-----
From: kimberlt [mailto:kimberlt@]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Gary,
Where are you located?

We rebuilt the bow thruster as we were getting water and oil
coming into
the bilge due to the thruster leaking at the rear seal.
The rebuild is very straight forward if the boat is out of the
water. If
you boat is in the water you can remove it by using the bow thruster
removal tools.
The removal of the thruster is covered in the manual.
Once you have the thruster out turn it upside down to drain the oil.
Having done this remove the prop. Behind this you will find a lip seal
similar to the one on the prop shaft except smaller. Just pry it out
grease a new one and install it. It can be pushed in very easily. It
appeared Amel uses some blue silicone to hold it in on the outside
surface.
On the thruster's vertical shaft, you will find two foam seals
that are
just removed by hand. Glue two new ones in place. Where the thruster
goes through the hull there is another lip seal held in by two screws.
Just remove this and install a new one. On top of this seal was
another
spongy disk seal, which we also glued down. Then just fill the
thruster
with point 3 (3 liters) of 90 weight oil.
I believe thrusters vary from boat to boat as Bel Ami, which was
next to
me, took ¾ liter of oil, and has a different mounting arrangement. My
owner's manual has a good drawing of the cross section of the bow
thruster.

Will you be in the virgins mid February?

Fair winds,
Eric
S/m 376 Kimberlite.

-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroup
<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> s.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Hi Eric:
I saw your boat at Marina Cay in Road Town a couple of weeks ago.
Looked bristol. Could you please describe in detail the bow
thruster seal service process? What do you need to check on the
rudder screws? Do you just need to check that they are tight?
Thanks, Gary Silver Liahona Hull # 335 Sea Cow Bay, Tortola

-- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@o...> wrote:
Stephan,
We just had our bottom done. It was sanded and we had 2 coats of
pettit
ultima ablative paint applied. We used 5 gallons.
I also replaced the two lip seals for the bow thruster- one on the
thruster shaft and one in the thruster through hull opening and 3
spongy
inserts. You should also replace the wearing out bearing and the 3
seals
on the prop shaft and the sail drive oil. The zincs on the rudder
and
the zinc and bearings on the weed cutter if you have one. Also,
check
the screws in the rudder hinge.
Fair winds,
Eric
SM 376 kimberlite





Yahoo! Groups Sponsor


ADVERTISEMENT

<http://rd.yahoo.
<http://rd.yahoo.com/SIG=12cst830c/M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/D=eg>
com/SIG=12cst830c/M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/D=eg
roupweb/S=1705065792:HM/EXP=1075093941/A=1945638/R=0/*http:/www.netflix.
com/Default?mqso=60178383&partid=4116732> click here


<http://us.adserver.
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/D=egrou>
yahoo.com/l?M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/D=egrou
pmail/S=:HM/A=1945638/rand=468978337>

_____

Yahoo! Groups Links
* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups. <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/>
yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-
<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe%40yahoogroups.com>
unsubscribe@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners-
<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe%40yahoogroups.com>
unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe>


* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
<http://docs. <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>
yahoo.com/info/terms/>
Service.





_____

Yahoo! Groups Links
* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups. <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/>
yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-
<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe%40yahoogroups.com>
unsubscribe@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners-
<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe%40yahoogroups.com>
unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe>


* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
<http://docs. <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>
yahoo.com/info/terms/>
Service.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Bow thruster for Maramu

David Wallace
 

We are considering having a bow thruster installed in our Maramu. If any Amel owners have had this done or know of one being done, I would appreciate any information regarding manufacturer, type (tunnel vs retracting), and position of installation.

Thanks in advance,

Dave Wallace
s/v Air Ops
Maramu #104

_________________________________________________________________
http://im.live.com/messenger/im/home/?source=hmtextlinkjuly07


RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Bolting Hull Deck Joint

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

Dear John & Annie,

I just completed two years of sailing from continental France to the Caribean, where my Mango was set on the hard until the end of the hurricane season.

In 2005 I sailed in pretty nasty 40 to 45kn weather off Ibiza for many hours.

This year I experienced a very shaking crosssing of the Atlantic in March with crossed swell and waves for almost all of the 19 days. I broke the two short whisker pole or struts ("Tangonets" in French, that had been rebuilt in France in 2005) as well as one spinaker pole as the result of unexpected huge waves. The The boat rolled and pitched for weeks.

When the mango was put ashore a few weeks ago, after taking the masts down, a thorought examination of the hull and deck revealed absolutely no dammage. Aside from the poles the only other dammage resulting from this rough crossing was a weakening baby stay on the main mast. Last week the hull was also examined by an independant surveyor, and the rigging by a professional rigger and declared in good condition.

My conclusion is that the hull to deck joint on a Mango is pretty sturdy and I have never heard that it would benefit from any bolting!

Serge Tremblay, V/ Opera, Mango#51




anniemno1 <no_reply@...> a écrit :
We are continuing the endless process of rebuilding Annie M, Mango #1.

We are now working on the hull to deck ("HTD") joint.

According to David Gerr in his book,

"The Elements of Boat Strength"

the HTD joint should be through-bolted with bolts determined

by calcualating ones scantling number. (LOA X Beam X Depth of
Hull)/1000.

Great, the number is about 8 for the Mango and calls for bolts every
11

inches or so.

Our questions are: 1. why are there no bolts in our HTD joint?

2. Do any Amels have HTD bolts? 3. If not, why not? 4. Has anyone
experienced opening of the HTD joint in heavy weather or separation
of tabbing because of flexing? 5. How is the AMEL 54 HTD joint made?

Best Regards,

John and Annie
Annie M
Mango #1






---------------------------------
Le tout nouveau Yahoo! Courriel
---------------------------------
Consultez vos fils RSS depuis votre boîte de réception.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Bolting Hull Deck Joint

Zanareva
 

John and Annie,

Look in the photo section of this site for the photo folder entitled
Amel-General. In there you'll see a posted photo "Construction
Details". In the photo (scanned from a brochure describing the Sharki-
Maramu-Mango boats) shows a cross-secion of the hull-deck joint-->a
continuously bonded lamination.

How can it be that you believe there's a need for thru bolting the DHJ?

Richard Tate
SM "Spice" and forum co-moderator


Bolting Hull Deck Joint

anniemno1 <no_reply@...>
 

We are continuing the endless process of rebuilding Annie M, Mango #1.

We are now working on the hull to deck ("HTD") joint.

According to David Gerr in his book,

"The Elements of Boat Strength"

the HTD joint should be through-bolted with bolts determined

by calcualating ones scantling number. (LOA X Beam X Depth of
Hull)/1000.

Great, the number is about 8 for the Mango and calls for bolts every
11

inches or so.

Our questions are: 1. why are there no bolts in our HTD joint?

2. Do any Amels have HTD bolts? 3. If not, why not? 4. Has anyone
experienced opening of the HTD joint in heavy weather or separation
of tabbing because of flexing? 5. How is the AMEL 54 HTD joint made?

Best Regards,



John and Annie
Annie M
Mango #1


Lost keel,insurance and extent of damage

Anne & John Hollamby <annejohn@...>
 

Hi Dan,
A few more points. Years ago I was crewing on a Nicholson 55 which was a ketch similar in configuration to our SMs and we were hit midships in a port and starboard situation on the start line at Cowes. The damage was a triangular hole about a foot high starting just above the waterline. This was about half way along the centre cockpit on the port side and in a large sail locker. The boat was motored back to Campers yard where it was built and they cut back the fibreglass until they came to a point at which the material had not delaminated i.e. where the glass fibres were still part of the resin and not free. This enlarged the hole big enough to walk through without bending. They moulded a new section using the original mould and then made that part of the hull without any sign of the damage being visible. The port tack yacht belonged to the Royal Navy and the helmsman was the CinC Home Fleet and so the navy was very helpful in ferrying us (the crew) from Cowes to Gosport to collect the boat for the start of the Fastnet in 1971. The boat was not insured for that race as it takes about seven days for the repair to gain full strength!
I had a port and starboard incident years ago when I was the guilty party crossing in front of another car which hit the rear wing of my car which had a fibre glass body. The damage appeared to be fairly insignificant and so I ignored the advice to have the whole rear quarter of the body replaced. Within a year the rear quarter was a mass of fine cracks as the GRP had delaminated.
I have been thinking about the probable damage to your boat. It was built by moulding two halves of the hull and joining them together. I feel sure that the iron and the GRP keel are joined together before the complete keel unit is joined to the hull. The shock of the collision may well have caused delamination not only of the bottom of the watertank section but also of the hull at both ends of the keel/hull joint and this sort of thing must be thoroughly surveyed by a real expert who will be prepared to stand up to your insurers surveyors.
When I had my problems I blamed the insurers but eventually I became convinced that it was the surveyor acting for insurers and the one acting for me were the problem. The one in Newport was incompetent possibly because he was rushed to deal with about 35 of the boats damaged in Hurricane Bob and my British one was not only incompetent in failing to check the engine but also dishonest in agreeing to act for me when he was not going to see the job through.

Richard, thanks for your remarks which are much appreciated.

Regards from Anne and John at anchor sitting out a gale in a bay in the Aegean. SM319


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Desalinator Shutdown

eric freedman
 

Tony.

I also have had the circuit breaker trip while sailing. I finally attributed
it to being on starboard tack and not having enough water entering the
system. Make sure the boat is flat or on port tack.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Thursday, July 12, 2007 12:31 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Desalinator Shutdown



12 July 2007

Tony:

I suffered similar problems with my Dessalitor 220VAC 50 Hz water maker
aboard our SM # 335. As you probably know these circuit breakers (CB)
are thermally activated and since I was operating in the tropics with high
ambient temperatures I attributed some of the problem to that. Also, if
I recall correctly the original CB was 15 amps and this system under full
operating conditions draws 13.5 amps or about 2560 watts (as measured
with a digital clamp power/amp meter under operating conditions). I
replaced my breaker with a 20 amp breaker (or maybe the original was
a 20 amp and I went up to a 25 amp, can't remember for sure) but I
have not had troubles since. The higher the ambient temperature the
greater the chance of a "weak" breaker tripping off line.

There is also a dedicated CB for the high pressure pump motor in the
box on the back side of the control panel (see Photos section as noted
below) that is specifically for that pump, but it doesn't sound like this is

your problem.

Just to make sure you don't have a true circuit problem with an
over current situation I would encourage you to use a clamp amp meter
(one that you clamp around the load wire to measure the actual load),
prior to going to a next higher rated CB. Also verify that the voltage at
the high pressure pump motor is 220 VAC.

High resistence connections or corroded CB contacts can cause similar
symptoms. High resistence causes increased thermal loading and then
trips the CB. The CBs are available from Amel for a reasonable price.
See the photos section (Dessalinator Service Info) for pic # 18 for a
shot of my digital meter showing the Dessalinator running at load.
One final caution, this is 220 volt circuity and IT CAN KILL YOU, please
make sure that shore power is disconnected and the genset is off prior
to working on any of it.

Hope this helps.

Gary Silver Liahona SM 2000 # 335

--- In
--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "pellegrini1942" <afpellegrini@...> wrote:

I am having a problem with my desalinator shutting down, that is
tripping the circuit breaker on the 220v panel in the galley after
about 12 minutes of operation. I have tried it with nothing else
operating but it does not seem to have any effect.
I do not have a water leak and I think the problem is electrical. I see
on the "posts" that the circuit breaker may need to be reset. Can
anyone confirm this?
Please advise.
Regards,
Tony Pellegrini
SM2000 Voyageur #373


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Lost Keel, insurance,and extent of damage.

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Thanks for the detailed reply to Dan... It is an eye
opener for all of us when it comes to dealing with
insurance companies.
Richard SM 209

--- Anne & John Hollamby <annejohn@...>
wrote:

Hello Dan,
Very sorry to read about your accident, which I
suspect will be the
beginning of a long and frustrating process
To answer your questions may I first point out that
you are not in a do it
yourself situation and so there is little point in
you hoping to reseal the
leaks. To look inside a water tank remove the toe
board at the base of the
fridge, two screws, lift the floorboard under the
door mat at the bottom of
the steps, 4 screws, and then reach under the blue
fibreglass floorboard to
find a black knob similar to the ones on the flap to
the gas locker. undo it
and remove the board to see the top of the access
plate for the middle water
tank. It is not very big and the Amel technicians
who repaired the leak on
my keel brought two specially made tools with them.
One was a cold chisel
welded onto the end of a stainless tube about four
or five feet long and the
other was a similar tool with a socket spanner head
to fit the nuts on the
keel bolts after the chisel had removed all the
special epoxy ? used to seal
them in.
No to see all the keel bolts you will also have to
remove the fridge under
the seat at the table. The tanks are part of the GRP
hull. The top of the
keel bolts are visible in the three fresh water
tanks and also in the grey
water tank. See the plans in your documentation.
There are fourteen bolts in
all.
I am astonished that your keel was sheared off and I
would be amazed if this
happened without doing major damage to the remainder
of the keel/hull. If
the repairs are not done to the highest standard the
boat will be unsafe
and unseaworthy. and I suspect that if you then sold
it and there was
further trouble with the weakened structure that it
would be a fruitful
source for litigation.
I think you must expect to have a lot of aggravation
over the next couple of
years whilst it is all sorted out.
I had an Oyster 435 which was severely damaged by
Hurricane Bob when we were
in Newport Harbour, Rhode Island. I notified
insurers in the UK who
appointed a Boston loss adjuster who appointed a
Newport yacht surveyor. He
inspected the boat and drew up a spec which he sent
to a dozen boat yards
and got about ten quotes ranging from $55,000 to $
212,000 to I will not
quote unless I am paid upfront. I was unable to
find a surveyor to act for
me and produce a better spec and the matter dragged
on for months. Being
unable to cope or understand the US system I paid
for the wreck to be
shipped back to the UK where I appointed a well
recommended Surveror who
produced a spec which went to tender to three top
yards and produced three
prices ranging from 75,000 to 78,000 ($150,000 to
$166,000. We then had a
meeting with my insurance broker and the "good"
surveyor who said that he
could proceed no further acting for me in
negotiations with insurers etc as
his primary clients were the insurance companies.
For my money he was a
whore.
I then had the problem that we were cruising en
route for the South Pacific
in another Oyster that we had bought as it was clear
that the damage etc
would take a long time. My surveyor had deserted me
and I had noone else to
oversee the repairs. The result was that the works
were done without proper
supervision. The insurance company insisted that I
signed a form saying that
I accepted the settlement of 75,000 in full and
final settlement and I
stupidly agreed. When the works were being done they
found that the engine
was ruined and fitted a new one at my expense but in
such a way that the
watermaker had to be scrapped. This increased the
cost by about 9,000 which
I had to pay.
I assume that you are insured and so I strongly
advise that you find a top
surveyor to act on your behalf and that he consult
with Amel on how to deal
with the repair. I do not suppose that you are the
first and only
unfortunate to shear off a keel and they have all
the expertise. If it were
me I would fight tooth and nail to have my insurers
pay for the repair to be
done by Amel and if they will not agree to
compromise by paying for the
shipment back to Amel if indeed Amel are prepared to
help out.
Sorry to be pessimistic but after my experiences as
above I would hate you
to be robbed as well.

Good luck,
John
SM319




Yahoo! Groups Links

(Yahoo! ID required)

mailto:amelyachtowners-fullfeatured@...





____________________________________________________________________________________
Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing.
http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/index.php


Re: Desalinator Shutdown

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

12 July 2007

Tony:

I suffered similar problems with my Dessalitor 220VAC 50 Hz water maker
aboard our SM # 335. As you probably know these circuit breakers (CB)
are thermally activated and since I was operating in the tropics with high
ambient temperatures I attributed some of the problem to that. Also, if
I recall correctly the original CB was 15 amps and this system under full
operating conditions draws 13.5 amps or about 2560 watts (as measured
with a digital clamp power/amp meter under operating conditions). I
replaced my breaker with a 20 amp breaker (or maybe the original was
a 20 amp and I went up to a 25 amp, can't remember for sure) but I
have not had troubles since. The higher the ambient temperature the
greater the chance of a "weak" breaker tripping off line.

There is also a dedicated CB for the high pressure pump motor in the
box on the back side of the control panel (see Photos section as noted
below) that is specifically for that pump, but it doesn't sound like this is
your problem.

Just to make sure you don't have a true circuit problem with an
over current situation I would encourage you to use a clamp amp meter
(one that you clamp around the load wire to measure the actual load),
prior to going to a next higher rated CB. Also verify that the voltage at
the high pressure pump motor is 220 VAC.

High resistence connections or corroded CB contacts can cause similar
symptoms. High resistence causes increased thermal loading and then
trips the CB. The CBs are available from Amel for a reasonable price.
See the photos section (Dessalinator Service Info) for pic # 18 for a
shot of my digital meter showing the Dessalinator running at load.
One final caution, this is 220 volt circuity and IT CAN KILL YOU, please
make sure that shore power is disconnected and the genset is off prior
to working on any of it.

Hope this helps.

Gary Silver Liahona SM 2000 # 335

--- In

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "pellegrini1942" <afpellegrini@...> wrote:

I am having a problem with my desalinator shutting down, that is
tripping the circuit breaker on the 220v panel in the galley after
about 12 minutes of operation. I have tried it with nothing else
operating but it does not seem to have any effect.
I do not have a water leak and I think the problem is electrical. I see
on the "posts" that the circuit breaker may need to be reset. Can
anyone confirm this?
Please advise.
Regards,
Tony Pellegrini
SM2000 Voyageur #373


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forestay size; furler type

Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
 

Can anyone please help me out with this recent enquiry?

Regards, Roger, Zorba, Mango 28

On 30/06/2007, at 6:59 PM, roger_h_banks wrote:

Would some kind owner presently onboard their Mango or SM please
put a vernier caliper on
the forestay and let me know the size. Mine is 10mm but I'm being
told that may be under-
rigged. Second, does anyone have experience of replacing the genoa
furling system with a
Profurl C430 or C480?

Regards, Roger, Zorba, Mango 28



Re: Desalinator Shutdown

Judy Rouse
 

Tony,

I do not know if this helps, but we had to replace the circuit breaker
because it broke the circuit with no apparent reason...that was 3
months ago...no problem since.

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
www.svBeBe.com



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "pellegrini1942"
<afpellegrini@...> wrote:

I am having a problem with my desalinator shutting down, that is
tripping the circuit breaker on the 220v panel in the galley after
about 12 minutes of operation. I have tried it with nothing else
operating but it does not seem to have any effect.
I do not have a water leak and I think the problem is electrical. I see
on the "posts" that the circuit breaker may need to be reset. Can
anyone confirm this?
Please advise.
Regards,
Tony Pellegrini
SM2000 Voyageur #373


Desalinator Shutdown

pellegrini1942 <afpellegrini@...>
 

I am having a problem with my desalinator shutting down, that is
tripping the circuit breaker on the 220v panel in the galley after
about 12 minutes of operation. I have tried it with nothing else
operating but it does not seem to have any effect.
I do not have a water leak and I think the problem is electrical. I see
on the "posts" that the circuit breaker may need to be reset. Can
anyone confirm this?
Please advise.
Regards,
Tony Pellegrini
SM2000 Voyageur #373


Lost Keel, insurance,and extent of damage.

Anne & John Hollamby <annejohn@...>
 

Hello Dan,
Very sorry to read about your accident, which I suspect will be the beginning of a long and frustrating process
To answer your questions may I first point out that you are not in a do it yourself situation and so there is little point in you hoping to reseal the leaks. To look inside a water tank remove the toe board at the base of the fridge, two screws, lift the floorboard under the door mat at the bottom of the steps, 4 screws, and then reach under the blue fibreglass floorboard to find a black knob similar to the ones on the flap to the gas locker. undo it and remove the board to see the top of the access plate for the middle water tank. It is not very big and the Amel technicians who repaired the leak on my keel brought two specially made tools with them. One was a cold chisel welded onto the end of a stainless tube about four or five feet long and the other was a similar tool with a socket spanner head to fit the nuts on the keel bolts after the chisel had removed all the special epoxy ? used to seal them in.
No to see all the keel bolts you will also have to remove the fridge under the seat at the table. The tanks are part of the GRP hull. The top of the keel bolts are visible in the three fresh water tanks and also in the grey water tank. See the plans in your documentation. There are fourteen bolts in all.
I am astonished that your keel was sheared off and I would be amazed if this happened without doing major damage to the remainder of the keel/hull. If the repairs are not done to the highest standard the boat will be unsafe and unseaworthy. and I suspect that if you then sold it and there was further trouble with the weakened structure that it would be a fruitful source for litigation.
I think you must expect to have a lot of aggravation over the next couple of years whilst it is all sorted out.
I had an Oyster 435 which was severely damaged by Hurricane Bob when we were in Newport Harbour, Rhode Island. I notified insurers in the UK who appointed a Boston loss adjuster who appointed a Newport yacht surveyor. He inspected the boat and drew up a spec which he sent to a dozen boat yards and got about ten quotes ranging from $55,000 to $ 212,000 to I will not quote unless I am paid upfront. I was unable to find a surveyor to act for me and produce a better spec and the matter dragged on for months. Being unable to cope or understand the US system I paid for the wreck to be shipped back to the UK where I appointed a well recommended Surveror who produced a spec which went to tender to three top yards and produced three prices ranging from 75,000 to 78,000 ($150,000 to $166,000. We then had a meeting with my insurance broker and the "good" surveyor who said that he could proceed no further acting for me in negotiations with insurers etc as his primary clients were the insurance companies. For my money he was a whore.
I then had the problem that we were cruising en route for the South Pacific in another Oyster that we had bought as it was clear that the damage etc would take a long time. My surveyor had deserted me and I had noone else to oversee the repairs. The result was that the works were done without proper supervision. The insurance company insisted that I signed a form saying that I accepted the settlement of 75,000 in full and final settlement and I stupidly agreed. When the works were being done they found that the engine was ruined and fitted a new one at my expense but in such a way that the watermaker had to be scrapped. This increased the cost by about 9,000 which I had to pay.
I assume that you are insured and so I strongly advise that you find a top surveyor to act on your behalf and that he consult with Amel on how to deal with the repair. I do not suppose that you are the first and only unfortunate to shear off a keel and they have all the expertise. If it were me I would fight tooth and nail to have my insurers pay for the repair to be done by Amel and if they will not agree to compromise by paying for the shipment back to Amel if indeed Amel are prepared to help out.
Sorry to be pessimistic but after my experiences as above I would hate you to be robbed as well.

Good luck, John SM319


New Member but Amel 'veteran'.

Noel Ardis <noel.ardis@...>
 

A quick hello to all the owners I have met over the years while sailing
SM#72 'Accolade'. Sorry it has taken me so long to officially join this
excellent forum.
The significant news is that 'Accolade' has been sold, after many years
of happy sailing and still looking great. The sadness of selling is,
however, tempered by the eager anticipation of having ordered a new 54!


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: CLIMA AIRCONDITIONER (HEATER)

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Peter, We lost the heater element on two of our clima units because when we didn't know that using the heater you should only do so in the High Fan setting. Medium or Low fan speed leads to burn out of the element.Was that the cause with you?
The element is easy to replace.
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Uruguay


From: "dan_bergin" <captdan@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: CLIMA AIRCONDITIONER (HEATER)
Date: Sun, 08 Jul 2007 18:26:20 -0000

Peter,
FOR the CLIMA dealer in San Francisco call ANDERS ELECTRIC 510-234-9566
or on the east coast call Rob at 301-352-6962
I tried to order one a month ago in San Francisoc when I was there.
ANDERS said it would be a month until they got one from Italy. Mayby
they have some now.
Dan Bergin
"Keelless in Canada"
sm#317

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...>
wrote:

greetings from supermaramu #369 CALLISTO - pt. vallarta mexico. i
need
a replacement heating element for my clima model number c303
heater/airconditioner. part number m66360. Does anyone know from whom
i can order one. Thank you Peter Pappas




Yahoo! Groups Links


_________________________________________________________________
Win tickets to the sold out Live Earth concert! http://liveearth.uk.msn.com


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: CLIMA AIRCONDITIONER (HEATER)

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

Dan, We are very sorry to hear of your lost keel. I
don't what we can do from hear other then listen.
Were you able to salvage the keel? What will be used
as a replacement? Did the stainless steel bolts show
any signs of loss of metal either from the salt water
or from being oxygen starved? Had she hit hard
before? We sail in Maine and are always fearful of
grounding on a big black rock ledge.
Good luck and hope you are able to get it fixed
before Canada runs out of beer.
Best wishes
Richard SM 209


--- dan_bergin <captdan@...> wrote:

Peter,
FOR the CLIMA dealer in San Francisco call ANDERS
ELECTRIC 510-234-9566
or on the east coast call Rob at 301-352-6962
I tried to order one a month ago in San Francisoc
when I was there.
ANDERS said it would be a month until they got one
from Italy. Mayby
they have some now.
Dan Bergin
"Keelless in Canada"
sm#317

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "pjppappas"
<pjppappas@...>
wrote:

greetings from supermaramu #369 CALLISTO - pt.
vallarta mexico. i
need
a replacement heating element for my clima model
number c303
heater/airconditioner. part number m66360. Does
anyone know from whom
i can order one. Thank you Peter Pappas



____________________________________________________________________________________
Need a vacation? Get great deals
to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel.
http://travel.yahoo.com/


Re: CLIMA AIRCONDITIONER (HEATER)

dan_bergin <captdan@...>
 

Peter,
FOR the CLIMA dealer in San Francisco call ANDERS ELECTRIC 510-234-9566
or on the east coast call Rob at 301-352-6962
I tried to order one a month ago in San Francisoc when I was there.
ANDERS said it would be a month until they got one from Italy. Mayby
they have some now.
Dan Bergin
"Keelless in Canada"
sm#317

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...>
wrote:

greetings from supermaramu #369 CALLISTO - pt. vallarta mexico. i
need
a replacement heating element for my clima model number c303
heater/airconditioner. part number m66360. Does anyone know from whom
i can order one. Thank you Peter Pappas


Re: impellor for Laser generator

lbflyingfree <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "bobparry1947" <bob@...> wrote:

We have a Laser generator circ 1990. Could someone please advise of
the
the equivalent Jabsco impellor number as the Sole one is hard to come
by. Bob Parry
Bob,
I have no idea of the equilalent Jabsco impeller. But I have the same
genset and have replumbed the intake directly to the raw water pump
instead of via the "heat sink" per the factory. The output of the raw
water pump is re-routed to the "heat sink". This keeps the inpellor
wet and i have not replaced the impellor in over 70 hours. I also
installed a shut off valve in the sea water circuit to the genset to
make servicing the impellor easier.
Good Luck.
Steve Anderson
SM 57 Flying Free


CLIMA AIRCONDITIONER (HEATER)

pjppappas <pjppappas@...>
 

greetings from supermaramu #369 CALLISTO - pt. vallarta mexico. i need
a replacement heating element for my clima model number c303
heater/airconditioner. part number m66360. Does anyone know from whom
i can order one. Thank you Peter Pappas