main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter

Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>

#2088

Hi Roy,
 
Thanks for the mail. You are right. The later SM's did not come with the
faucet on the water maker control panel. It was relocated to the oil
reservoir attached to the high pressure pump. It makes for easy and frequent
oil changes, but to sample the water product with my hand held Hanna TDS
meter, I have to disconnect the pipe in the engine room that goes to the
tank and gather a sample into a cup.
 
I look forward to hearing from Gary about his experiences with an inline TDS
meter.
 
Cheers
 
Ian

Show quoted text

-------Original Message-------

From: rbenven44
Date: 03/24/06 17:42:14
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...>
wrote:

Hi Roy,

Would you please let me know if you have successfully installedyour inline TDS meters?

Hi Ian,

I ended up buying the portable TDS meter, and will check it out when
I go to the boat next month.  Gary Silver on Liahona, I believe,
installed the in-line sensor.  He should tell you about his
experience.

On my SM (#195) the control panel for the watermaker has a small
faucet that can be used to sample product water.  I always check this
before filling my tank, as I have believed since the first year I had
the boat that the salinity tester did not work.  I normally check the
product water by tasting it, but now I will supplement that by
measuring the TDS.

Do newer SMs still have this faucet on the Dessalator control panel
in the galley?  It's a very valuable item, and maybe Dessalator can
be persuaded to re-install it if it's no longer there.

Regards,  Roy

Yahoo! Groups Links

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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>

#2087

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...>
wrote:

Hi Roy,

Would you please let me know if you have successfully installedyour inline TDS meters?

Hi Ian,

I ended up buying the portable TDS meter, and will check it out when
I go to the boat next month.  Gary Silver on Liahona, I believe,
installed the in-line sensor.  He should tell you about his
experience.

On my SM (#195) the control panel for the watermaker has a small
faucet that can be used to sample product water.  I always check this
before filling my tank, as I have believed since the first year I had
the boat that the salinity tester did not work.  I normally check the
product water by tasting it, but now I will supplement that by
measuring the TDS.

Do newer SMs still have this faucet on the Dessalator control panel
in the galley?  It's a very valuable item, and maybe Dessalator can
be persuaded to re-install it if it's no longer there.

Regards,  Roy

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 heat exchanger

Mike Ondra <mondra@...>

#2086

Thanks for the information.  The 4000 rpm was without prop engaged.  We have
yet to test out boat speed v. rpm. Volvo mixing elbow cost here in Maryland
was a bit over $600.
  _____  

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of asm283
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 12:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 heat exchanger

Hi Mike

As I write this my cooling system is apart for serice. Same sort of 
issues, blocked tubes with growth and calcium deposits. The miximg 
elbow was corroded and needs replacement. I did find what looked 
like weeds. I cant believe that these got trough the strainer then 
made it past the impeller and then into the tubes. It must be some 
kind of growth. I have spent quite a bit of time in the tropics and 
strange things grow out here. This is the first time I have done 
this on my 6 year old boat. 

As far as the carbon built up in the turbo. This is a trait of this 
engine. It seems that everyone has this problem. Just put it on your 
maintenane list. I have had it cleaned and serviced twice in the 
past year. I have done a lot of low RPM motoring in the past year 
(600 hours) wich will cause the carbon built up. You will find that 
you will run at low RPMs in order to get better fuel economy. 
Important for long passages.

Also, check your muffler for corrosion.

When you say that you got the engine up to 4,000 rpm is with the 
prop engaged. What was your speed.

Good luck with your SM. Sevice her and she will treat you right. I 
crossed from Guadaloupe to New Zealand this year and not a thing 
went wrong with the boat. People with much more expensive and newer 
boats had many more problems that I did.

There is a maintenance list written by Mr. Selo of Amel floating 
around this site. Follow his recomendations and the boat will work 
well. Maybe someone who is closer to you can send it to you.

Vito Ciaravino

ASM # 283

Wanderer 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "mike_ondra" <mondra@...> 
wrote:

After de-winterizing our recently purchased SM 2000 and starting the 
engine, we rapidly blanketed the marina in what could easily have 
been mistaken as a June fog on the Maine coast.  Unlike fog it did 
not lift or burn off as the day progressed.

Turns out the heat exchanger was at least 50% blocked with sea 
grass, pine needles and other small debris as well as general crud.  
Perhaps it was the restricted flow that resulted in extra high 
temperatures on the exhaust side and perhaps steam and water pushing 
back from the injection elbow into the turbo which was significantly 
carboned up.  After a thorough cleaning of both the heat exchanger 
and turbo, the engine burns clean and now peaks at 4000 rpm. We 
hadn't tried to run it up last fall, but after dewinterizing and 
before this cleanup it seemed to flag at around 2600 rpm.

Photos of the heat exchanger core are posted under Aletes SM#240. 
One can see the amount of buildup on the core tubes and pieces of 
debris jammed into the tubes and laying in the end caps. 

This experience leads to two questions.

1) How did this debris get through the strainer?  It seems the 
strainer basket does not have a compressible seal at the top or 
bottom, and in fact has a bit of vertical play.  Might there be 
enough of a gap to allow a blade of sea grass or pine needle to 
sneak around the strainer?  Would adding a compressible gasket to 
the top and bottom of the basket provide the requisite seal?

2) Why does the Volvo manual not mention maintenance on the heat 
exchanger or on the turbo?  From what we found, it would seem a look-
see would be appropriate at least every 500 hours.

Interested in the experience of others on these issues.

Mike Ondra
S/Y Aletes SM#240

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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter

Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>

#2085

Hi Roy,
 
Would you please let me know if you have successfully installed your inline
TDS meters? I installed one immediately after the outlet from the membranes
on my 160 l/h unit and it came up with an error message after a second or so
 I suspect that the flow rate might have been too high there as the meter
worked when the output hose was connected taken off the copper pipe that
goes to the tank and the water allowed to pass through the sensor fittings.
That's too low down to mount the meter in the galley, so if you find a
location higher up that works, then please let me know.
 
There have been several promises from Rod Boreham and Joel for a
clarification statement on exactly what protection there is against bad
water polluting our one and only water tank, but to date I have seen nothing
published. The fact that no reassurance has been forthcoming gives me an
uneasy feeling. It's time the record was put straight. If the protection is
not there, then there is a potentially dangerous situation for those of us
who rely upon the integrity of our water tank for long distance passages.
The facts must be known to Desallator, so why have they not come forwards to
defend their design? It's time we knew whether the salinity probe does what
we all hope it will do, or not.
 
Several have suggested that shorting the probe contacts will test it's
function. I am told that this is not so as the probes are subjected to a 500
Hz alternating voltage and so shorting them does not simulate a high
salinity content.
 
Regards
 
Ian Shepherd SM 414 'Crusader'

Show quoted text

-------Original Message-------

From: rbenven44
Date: 01/13/06 22:55:37
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter

Hi,
   I have been following the discussion about watermakers and
especially the reliability of the salinity sensor on the Dessalator
unit.  I recently had to replace a RO unit at home, and started looking
for suppliers on line.  I found this source:
http://www.waterfiltersonline.com/reverse-osmosis-systems.asp
that sells portable TDS meters for under $40, and an in-line meter for
under $50.  They seem like good investments to check the quality of our
watermakers.  I will be ordering one or both for our boat.

Regards,  Roy  (Excalibur SM #195)

Yahoo! Groups Links

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Re: Volvo TMD22 heat exchanger

asm283 <no_reply@...>

#2084

Hi Mike

As I write this my cooling system is apart for serice. Same sort of
issues, blocked tubes with growth and calcium deposits. The miximg
elbow was corroded and needs replacement. I did find what looked
like weeds. I cant believe that these got trough the strainer then
made it past the impeller and then into the tubes. It must be some
kind of growth. I have spent quite a bit of time in the tropics and
strange things grow out here. This is the first time I have done
this on my 6 year old boat.

As far as the carbon built up in the turbo. This is a trait of this
engine. It seems that everyone has this problem. Just put it on your
maintenane list. I have had it cleaned and serviced twice in the
past year. I have done a lot of low RPM motoring in the past year
(600 hours) wich will cause the carbon built up. You will find that
you will run at low RPMs in order to get better fuel economy.
Important for long passages.

Also, check your muffler for corrosion.

When you say that you got the engine up to 4,000 rpm is with the
prop engaged. What was your speed.

Good luck with your SM. Sevice her and she will treat you right. I
crossed from Guadaloupe to New Zealand this year and not a thing
went wrong with the boat. People with much more expensive and newer
boats had many more problems that I did.

There is a maintenance list written by Mr. Selo of Amel floating
around this site. Follow his recomendations and the boat will work
well. Maybe someone who is closer to you can send it to you.

Vito Ciaravino

ASM # 283

Wanderer

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "mike_ondra" <mondra@...>
wrote:

After de-winterizing our recently purchased SM 2000 and startingthe
engine, we rapidly blanketed the marina in what could easily have
been mistaken as a June fog on the Maine coast.  Unlike fog it did
not lift or burn off as the day progressed.

Turns out the heat exchanger was at least 50% blocked with sea
grass, pine needles and other small debris as well as generalcrud.
Perhaps it was the restricted flow that resulted in extra high
temperatures on the exhaust side and perhaps steam and waterpushing
back from the injection elbow into the turbo which wassignificantly
carboned up.  After a thorough cleaning of both the heat exchanger
and turbo, the engine burns clean and now peaks at 4000 rpm. We
hadn't tried to run it up last fall, but after dewinterizing and
before this cleanup it seemed to flag at around 2600 rpm.

Photos of the heat exchanger core are posted under Aletes SM#240.
One can see the amount of buildup on the core tubes and pieces of
debris jammed into the tubes and laying in the end caps.

This experience leads to two questions.

1) How did this debris get through the strainer?  It seems the
strainer basket does not have a compressible seal at the top or
bottom, and in fact has a bit of vertical play.  Might there be
enough of a gap to allow a blade of sea grass or pine needle to
sneak around the strainer?  Would adding a compressible gasket to
the top and bottom of the basket provide the requisite seal?

2) Why does the Volvo manual not mention maintenance on the heat
exchanger or on the turbo?  From what we found, it would seem alook-
see would be appropriate at least every 500 hours.

Interested in the experience of others on these issues.

Mike Ondra
S/Y Aletes SM#240

Volvo TMD22 heat exchanger

mike_ondra <mondra@...>

#2083

After de-winterizing our recently purchased SM 2000 and starting the
engine, we rapidly blanketed the marina in what could easily have
been mistaken as a June fog on the Maine coast.  Unlike fog it did
not lift or burn off as the day progressed.

Turns out the heat exchanger was at least 50% blocked with sea
grass, pine needles and other small debris as well as general crud.
Perhaps it was the restricted flow that resulted in extra high
temperatures on the exhaust side and perhaps steam and water pushing
back from the injection elbow into the turbo which was significantly
carboned up.  After a thorough cleaning of both the heat exchanger
and turbo, the engine burns clean and now peaks at 4000 rpm. We
hadn't tried to run it up last fall, but after dewinterizing and
before this cleanup it seemed to flag at around 2600 rpm.

Photos of the heat exchanger core are posted under Aletes SM#240.
One can see the amount of buildup on the core tubes and pieces of
debris jammed into the tubes and laying in the end caps.

This experience leads to two questions.

1) How did this debris get through the strainer?  It seems the
strainer basket does not have a compressible seal at the top or
bottom, and in fact has a bit of vertical play.  Might there be
enough of a gap to allow a blade of sea grass or pine needle to
sneak around the strainer?  Would adding a compressible gasket to
the top and bottom of the basket provide the requisite seal?

2) Why does the Volvo manual not mention maintenance on the heat
exchanger or on the turbo?  From what we found, it would seem a look-
see would be appropriate at least every 500 hours.

Interested in the experience of others on these issues.

Mike Ondra
S/Y Aletes SM#240

LADY DIVINA

L. CAMERON <solarconstruction@...>

#2082

I OWN SUPER MARAMU 2000, YEAR 2001, HULL # 318. LOOKING FOR>
  1) AMEL COMPLETE MAIN and/or MIZZEN MASTS,(without booms)
  2) ELECTRIC FURLING GENOA,
  3) or SPARE ELECTRIC MAIN MAST FURLING MOTOR and GENOA FURLING MOTOR.
  4) ALSO USED SAILS FOR GENOA, MAIN & MIZZEN.
  SINCERELY, S/Y LADY DIVINA, LYING CARIBBEAN,


---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

Re: original rigging on maramu

Jochen Hofmann <jochen@...>

#2081

Hi Marc,
on our Maramu #143 (1983/84) there is a fixed "top stay" between the
main top and the mizzen top. Also, when we ordered complete new
standing rigging from Sparcraft in France about two years ago they
included this "top stay" in the shipment without even asking,so this
seems to be the standard layout.
As to the mizzen backstay ours are twin backstays running to the top
at the outer corners of the pushpit. Again Sparcraft apparently had
that on their files (or got it from Amel). I have seen some Maramus
having this configuration, but I have also seen some who have a single
backstay running to the center, but I don't know if they run to the
top or to the bottom of the pushpit. Does anyone know if Amel changed
that during the production of the "manual" Maramus ?

Regards,
Jochen, BLUE SONG, Maramu #143 (www.bluesong.de to be built soon).

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "sy melmar y" <newsgroup@...>
wrote:

hello
could anyone please tell me if originally the two masts were
interconectet by a "top stay"? on our maramu (1981) a stay is running
from the main mast top over a block/roll on the mizzen top down along
the mizzen to a point just above the block/roll of the mainsheet. since
i heard too many voices to remove it, i'm wondering if the amels put it
there.
similar question: the aftstay of the mizzen runs to a point on top of
the center pushpit or to the foot of the center pushpit? the welding
seems not to be original on our stern...
thanks,
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch

Re: original rigging on maramu

petervweston <no_reply@...>

#2080

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "sy melmar y" <newsgroup@...>
wrote:

hello
could anyone please tell me if originally the two masts were
interconectet by a "top stay"?I was under the impression that this is called a "triatic stay" but
when  I looked it up in a dictionary a triatic connected the main mast
and the fore mast.  Does anyone know the correct term for a stay
connecting the main mast and the mizzen mast?

Peter Weston

Former owner of Amelia Pearl now Moon Dog (SM 248)

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator

amelforme

#2079

Hi Jerry,

At the AMEL Shipyard, we offer a dual Racor Filter with
manifold and vacuum gauge as an option.  This allowed one to
switch to a clean filter in an emergency (they never fail in
open seas with flat water) and change the dirty one when
more convenient.

Even if an engine only burns a maximum of 6 GPH, like your
Volvo, it passes many times that amount through the
injection pump each hour to lubricate and cool the pump.
The excess is returned to the tank via the return line.

I would use a single 500 series RACOR  at the minimum and
think the dual 75500 MAX2 setup is the best way to go.

Hope this helps.

Joel F. Potter, 
AMEL 54, Hull # 14, HOLLIS

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator

Eric Lindholm

#2078

That should be more than adequate, the largest Detroit Diesels flow 100 gph. Eric 105

PFM53 <pfm53@...> wrote:  Does anyone know what size Racor fuel filter/water separator is recommended
for the Volvo TMD22?  I would think that the 60 GPH (227LPH) size should be
sufficient, but I haven't been able to determine the specific GPH requirements
for this engine.

Thanks

Jerry

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Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator

PFM53 <pfm53@...>

#2077

Does anyone know what size Racor fuel filter/water separator is recommended
for the Volvo TMD22?  I would think that the 60 GPH (227LPH) size should be
sufficient, but I haven't been able to determine the specific GPH requirements
for this engine.

Thanks

Jerry

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] original rigging on maramu

Eric Lindholm

#2076

My maramu has a fixed "top stay" between the masts. Eric 105

sy melmar y <newsgroup@...> wrote:  hello
could anyone please tell me if originally the two masts were
interconectet by a "top stay"? on our maramu (1981) a stay is running
from the main mast top over a block/roll on the mizzen top down along
the mizzen to a point just above the block/roll of the mainsheet. since
i heard too many voices to remove it, i'm wondering if the amels put it
there.
similar question: the aftstay of the mizzen runs to a point on top of
the center pushpit or to the foot of the center pushpit? the welding
seems not to be original on our stern...
thanks,
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch





  SPONSORED LINKS 
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---------------------------------
  YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS 

    
    Visit your group "amelyachtowners" on the web.
    
    To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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---------------------------------

original rigging on maramu

sy melmar y <newsgroup@...>

#2075

hello
could anyone please tell me if originally the two masts were
interconectet by a "top stay"? on our maramu (1981) a stay is running
from the main mast top over a block/roll on the mizzen top down along
the mizzen to a point just above the block/roll of the mainsheet. since
i heard too many voices to remove it, i'm wondering if the amels put it
there.
similar question: the aftstay of the mizzen runs to a point on top of
the center pushpit or to the foot of the center pushpit? the welding
seems not to be original on our stern...
thanks,
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch

rings in aft cabin on maramu

sy melmar y <newsgroup@...>

#2074

since i don't have had any possibility to talk and ask one of the
preowners of my maramu #89 a (maybe silly) question: in our aft cabin
there are two quite strong rings screwed in - one fwd just between the
entry door to the aft cabin and the little hatch to the cockpit, the
other one aft at the foot end of the beds on the center post. what are
they for? i want to keep/reinstate our maramu as original as possible. i
figuered that the amels did think something on most of the things they
were building in their boats. thanks for any hints.
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] double bed in salon on maramu

sy melmar y <newsgroup@...>

#2073

after reading your message i went on to search behind the folding table
... and of course i found the four holes of the original plate (with the
pipe according to your description). eric: no picture necessary, thanks
for the offer. i just have to find an easy way to get to a similar
support somewhere. thanks.
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch

Show quoted text

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Eric Lindholm
Sent: Montag, 20. März 2006 06:05
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] double bed in salon on maramu

On the port aft side of the pedestal, the pipe sticks out from the
pedestal and through the hole in the leaf of the table when it is down
to make the bed on the port side. It is either polished stainless steel
or chrome plated. It is at the height of the top of the port seat. The
extended board rests on the seat all along the port side, the seat fore,
and the pipe on the port side of the pedestal, for its starboard support
aft. I can take a picture and email it to you next time I am at the
boat. Eric

sy melmar y <newsgroup@...> wrote:  thanks for replys. it looks to
me that the folded down table takes ‚the
whole weight’ on the stb side of the bed... ok.
eric: just to get it right. the original pipe is affixed to the pedestal
- the one in the middle through the „two inch hole“ or towards the
seatinglocker on port side?
marc, S/Y MELMAR Y, maramu #89

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Eric Lindholm
Sent: Donnerstag, 16. März 2006 21:27
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] double bed in salon on maramu

On my Maramu the extended board rests on the lip of the seat forward,
and a small pipe sticks out of the "two inch hole" in the table when it
is folded down to support the other end aft.  The original pipe is
approx 1" diameter by 4" long and affixed to the pedestal. Eric 105

Horst Pause <horst@...> wrote:  On my Maramu the folded out
part of the double bed rests against the lip
on the folded down table, which has worked quite well so far. Whilst I
don't know whether this is the original feature, I have seen the same
arrangement on other Maramus.

Good luck with your rebuild.
Horst, Maramu 185

________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of sy melmar y
Sent: 16 March 2006 15:38
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] double bed in salon on maramu

hello
i'm tying to reinstate some 'lost' original installations on our maramu.
one of them being the double bed on port side in the salon. putting the
second wooden board under the port bench board is the easy part. this
one folds out toward the mid pedestal. fwd it lies on the short cross
bench. on the aft side it must lie on something as well. is the about
two inch hole in the down folded table the solution? could anybody show
or explain the item which was originally installed for that purpose?
thanks.
marc, S/Y MELMAR Y, maramu #89

Re: Anchor Chain

bobparry1947 <bob@...>

#2072

When we bought our SM in 2004, she came with 50m of 8mm chain. Last
year, we bought a new gypsy from Amel but you should be able to get
one from a Lofrans distributor as listed on their website or any
Lofrans supplier. We now have 90m (we had ordered 100m) of 10mm short
link hot dipped chain. Be aware that there are two sizes of short link
so match the chain to the gypsy. We have an anchor swivel between the
anchor and the chain.

We don't have a problem with storing the chain in the chain locker and
have not had any problems in that area. Nor is the weight a problem.
We did find that the chain peeler was catching the chain as we brought
it in. As we were not able to easily get a new one, we took it off. So
far, that has worked well. Don't use rope near coral.

Can't help with chain suppliers as our boat is in the Med and we are
Australian.

Bob and Ann Parry
Nowornot   SM#33

Show quoted text

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "mike_ondra" <mondra@...> wrote:

Having purchased "Drifter" SM #240 in October we are having great fun
exploring and beginning to understand some of the myriad systems on
board.  Recently checking the anchor chain locker for the first time
from the fore stateroom, we found a mound of rusted chain requiring a
hammer to break it up.  Me-thinks it time to replace the chain.

Being in the US, metric chain seems unatainable, hence a potential
incompatibility with the windlass gypsy.  Anyway, looking for
suggestions, knowing that there are probably as many opinions about
anchoring as there are skippers.

1) Recommended size/type chain.  Thinking 3/8" G40 or G70,  but can a
replacement gypsy for that size chain be found for this windlass.
Alternatively, is metric chain available in the US at palatable prices.

2) Recommended rode configuration.  Thinking 100-150' of chain and
100'-150' of rope.  Planning cruising in Caribbean and South Pacific.

Thanks for any help with this,

Mike Ondra
"Drifter" SM #240

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Muffler question

asm283 <no_reply@...>

#2071

Hi Joel

Thank you for the information. I will contact Olivier. I can get
Vetus products here. Hows the 54.

Vito

ASM # 283

Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Joel F. Potter"
<jfpottercys@...> wrote:

Hi Vito,

That muffler is aluminum, not stainless.  They are not able
to be repaired.  Trust me.  We tried twice and the only one
who was happy was the welding supplies store.

AMEL went to a plastic/poly type on later boats from VETUS.
The advantage was that they don't corrode and since they are
"flexible" they eliminated vibration and were a little more
quiet.  The big negative is they melt if the raw water
injection at the exhaust elbow goes away.  All in all, most
folks like them better than the original or the fiberglass
pot-type Aqua Lift brand mufflers.  Perhaps Olivier could
supply us with the model number and any installation tips.
Hey Olivier...

All the best,
Joel F. Potter
AMEL 54 Hull # 14, HOLLIS

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Muffler question

amelforme

#2070

Hi Vito,

That muffler is aluminum, not stainless.  They are not able
to be repaired.  Trust me.  We tried twice and the only one
who was happy was the welding supplies store.

AMEL went to a plastic/poly type on later boats from VETUS.
The advantage was that they don't corrode and since they are
"flexible" they eliminated vibration and were a little more
quiet.  The big negative is they melt if the raw water
injection at the exhaust elbow goes away.  All in all, most
folks like them better than the original or the fiberglass
pot-type Aqua Lift brand mufflers.  Perhaps Olivier could
supply us with the model number and any installation tips.
Hey Olivier...

All the best,
Joel F. Potter
AMEL 54 Hull # 14, HOLLIS

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Chain

Thomas.Neuland@t-online.de <thomas.neuland@...>

#2069

Dear Mike,

I had the same question as you had- the chain was just too short, old
and way too light.
We had a modification done at Amel's shipyard in Hyeres and the
recommended 76 m of 10 mm nickeled (not stainless) chain with just
another nutwheel on the Lofrans windlass. It is a super combination. The
lenghth is just right because it is not resulting in "chain-mountains"
inside the chain-house.
Do yourself a favor and add a turning clutch between anchor and chain
since the chain tends to get twisted a this lenghths. About non-metric
sizes I don't know of course, but Amel's info and support was (again)
superb.

Fair winds.

Tom Neuland
"Mallamok"
SM # 003

Show quoted text

-----Original Message-----
Date: Fri, 10 Mar 2006 04:06:37 +0100
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Chain
From: "mike_ondra" 
To: amelyachtowners@...

Having purchased "Drifter" SM #240 in October we are having great fun 
exploring and beginning to understand some of the myriad systems on 
board. Recently checking the anchor chain locker for the first time 
from the fore stateroom, we found a mound of rusted chain requiring a 
hammer to break it up. Me-thinks it time to replace the chain. 

Being in the US, metric chain seems unatainable, hence a potential 
incompatibility with the windlass gypsy. Anyway, looking for 
suggestions, knowing that there are probably as many opinions about 
anchoring as there are skippers.

1) Recommended size/type chain. Thinking 3/8" G40 or G70, but can a 
replacement gypsy for that size chain be found for this windlass. 
Alternatively, is metric chain available in the US at palatable prices.

2) Recommended rode configuration. Thinking 100-150' of chain and 
100'-150' of rope. Planning cruising in Caribbean and South Pacific.

Thanks for any help with this,

Mike Ondra
"Drifter" SM #240

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