amelyachtowners@...


Dear Gary.

Sorry for being so late in answering your very interesting, professional and detailed reverse engineering on water maker.
I live on my boat, presently sailing in south Pacific Islands, often very far off an internet connecting point.
As I already said, mine is a Duo 60 which seems to be a lousy quality by-product very different of yours; amongst others: no BP primary feed pump, degraded HP pump (I opened it to confirm: 2 pistons removed out of the 3 installed by CAT and which are, they say, essential for the balance), no electrical protection….etc….

I looked again in the so called “control box” in the cockpit locker; NO CIRCUIT BREAKER at all (neither motor nor distribution curve); only relays to make clic clac after ~3 min. That confirms that there is no electric protection of the motor, against all safety standards. That is why I nearly got fire and I think I have no other choice than putting a slow blow fuse to protect the HP pump motor.

Incidentally, I know very well the CB’S you are talking of: I was with this company quite a lot of years, in charge of all types of CB (EHV to LV) all over the world.

Thank you again for your very factual and detailed approach of the problem which is of great help to all of us.

Kindest Regards

Yves MARTIN d'AIGUEPERSE
“BLUE MARINE”
S.M. N°311





mcymabm@...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

RE: Shroud Protector

Mark:

I found all sizes from West Marine except the 1/2 inch diameter and the next smaller size
(7/16 I think). I could find no US supplier for those two sizes. I too had to order it from
Amel. I bought about three sets each since the shipping was more than the cost of the items.
At one point I purchased some from Laurent in Guadeloupe.

The stuff I bought in the US seems to be of better quality plastic since it doesn't seem to
crumble as quickly as do the larger diameters from Amel.

Gary "Liahona" Hull #335

Mark,

I had to order mine from Amel.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of markmpitt
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 6:36 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] shroud protectors



Does anyone know of a place in the US that sells the 1/2 inch diameter
shroud protectors used on the Super Maramu?

Mark Pitt "Sabbatical III' #419

Does anyone know of a place in the US that sells the 1/2 inch diameter
shroud protectors used on the Super Maramu?

Mark Pitt "Sabbatical III' #419

-Thank you for your reply. That is an interesting thought. I feel
that the best way to remidy the problem is to have the furling tube
at the correct "torque" or tension. Thanks again for your reply.

Tony



-- In amelyachtowners@..., "alex_govett"
<alex_govett@...> wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@> wrote:

Tony,

My husband suggest you slightly unfurl the main inside the mast,

to

helps cushion it as well as having the correct halyad tension.
Happy Sailing
Alex & Trak
'Tirando' #228 SM

Tony,

Did you try tightening the outhaul when the sail ids furled?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Roger Banks
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging Question



Hi Tony

Can you not either slacken or tighten the halyard tension so

that

the

mainsail would not be suspended loosely. In the later added

goiot

(maybe the word you are looking for) on my older boat, there is

no

room for the sail to slop around, but certainly the main halyard
controls its tension.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28 Zorba

On 22/08/2006, at 8:31 AM, agav8ter wrote:

Thank you Gary for the reply.

I did obtain an Amel CD. It is for the SM but has a different
engine, battery charger and some other things than my boat

#266.

I

was able to read and understand the way to change the tension

on

the

halyards (I do not have the Amel loop for the main). I was not
abale to find info on the (for the lack of the proper term)

furling

tubes. I can see by looking through the sail slot on the main

that

the entire furled sail is gently going back and forth as we

swing on

the hook, with the entire mass "slapping" the inside of the

mast.

When slepping forward it has the soft sound of doom, doom,

doom

as

it hits. It's the reference to DOOM that has me concerned!

Thanks again for the reply and I am all ears for for info.

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%

40yahoogroups.com>

yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@>

wrote:

Hi Tony:

It would be a good idea to get the owners manual for your

boat.

It is full of very useful

information. Amel also produced a CD ROM that has the entire

SM

owners manual in it

and could be shipped to you easily for viewing on you

computer.

Just Email Amel at their

web site address and or call them and I am sure that you can

obtain the manual and/or CD

ROM from them.

The main and mizzen halyards are tensioned in different

ways.

The

mizzen halyard is

taken on the mizzen mast port side winch, then you release

port

side clutch where the

halyard exits the mast. You tension the halyard, without

load

on

the mizzen sail, until the

tack lacings near the furling gear box are taught. Set the

clutch

and stow the excess

halyard.

The main halyard requires a looped piece of line, originally

supplied by Amel and of the

same color code as the main halyard, that attaches to the

track

mounted car on the

starboard side of the main mast. Take tension off the car

with

the looped line taken to

one of the main mast winches (usuallly I use the larger lower

one), disengage the locking

pin, tension the halyard until the sail's tack lacings are

taught

and the locking pin engages

one of the track holes. Again is is important to have the

sail

unfurled and without load on

it (luffing) while you tension the halyard. This is all

easier

done than described. Amel

recommends that you ease the halyard tensions when the sails

won't

be used for some

time.

Even with the halyards properly tensioned I still hear some

slapping at times within the

masts. This is most likely the wires that run up the interior

forward sections of the masts

slapping back and forth as the boat pitches, rather than the

sails

themselves. I have been

a little worried about wire chafe from this slapping but I am

unsure what steps to take to

resolve it. Anybody else have suggestions on this?

I hope this helps.

Regards, Gary Silver

Hello fellow Amel sailors,

I own a SM #266, but do not have any of the (Amel)manuals

for

her.

Question:
Recently when the sails are furled I can hear the rolled

up

mass

gently banging against the inside of both the main and

mizzen

masts. I would like to know how to tighen the internal rig

to

make

the (I don't know the correct name) aluminum tube that the

sail

is

hanked to tighter to stop the banging. On the main mast

Stbd

side

there is a fixture that is on a slide. There is a line on

it

that

goes through the mast and to a winch. Is this where I get

the

desired tension? What is the correct tension? How about the

mizzen?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266
currently at anchor, Store Bay, Tobago

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello Eric,

Yes I have the outhaul tight. However the furling tube moves and
will "slap" the inside of the mast even when the sail is unfurled
and has a nice wind filling it. Thanks for your reply, and "fair
winds" to you always.

Tony



--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Tony,

Did you try tightening the outhaul when the sail ids furled?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Roger Banks
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging Question



Hi Tony

Can you not either slacken or tighten the halyard tension so that

the

mainsail would not be suspended loosely. In the later added goiot
(maybe the word you are looking for) on my older boat, there is no
room for the sail to slop around, but certainly the main halyard
controls its tension.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28 Zorba

On 22/08/2006, at 8:31 AM, agav8ter wrote:

Thank you Gary for the reply.

I did obtain an Amel CD. It is for the SM but has a different
engine, battery charger and some other things than my boat #266.

I

was able to read and understand the way to change the tension on

the

halyards (I do not have the Amel loop for the main). I was not
abale to find info on the (for the lack of the proper term)

furling

tubes. I can see by looking through the sail slot on the main

that

the entire furled sail is gently going back and forth as we

swing on

the hook, with the entire mass "slapping" the inside of the mast.
When slepping forward it has the soft sound of doom, doom, doom

as

it hits. It's the reference to DOOM that has me concerned!

Thanks again for the reply and I am all ears for for info.

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%

40yahoogroups.com>

yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@>

wrote:

Hi Tony:

It would be a good idea to get the owners manual for your boat.

It is full of very useful

information. Amel also produced a CD ROM that has the entire SM

owners manual in it

and could be shipped to you easily for viewing on you computer.

Just Email Amel at their

web site address and or call them and I am sure that you can

obtain the manual and/or CD

ROM from them.

The main and mizzen halyards are tensioned in different ways.

The

mizzen halyard is

taken on the mizzen mast port side winch, then you release port

side clutch where the

halyard exits the mast. You tension the halyard, without load

on

the mizzen sail, until the

tack lacings near the furling gear box are taught. Set the

clutch

and stow the excess

halyard.

The main halyard requires a looped piece of line, originally

supplied by Amel and of the

same color code as the main halyard, that attaches to the track

mounted car on the

starboard side of the main mast. Take tension off the car with

the looped line taken to

one of the main mast winches (usuallly I use the larger lower

one), disengage the locking

pin, tension the halyard until the sail's tack lacings are

taught

and the locking pin engages

one of the track holes. Again is is important to have the sail

unfurled and without load on

it (luffing) while you tension the halyard. This is all easier

done than described. Amel

recommends that you ease the halyard tensions when the sails

won't

be used for some

time.

Even with the halyards properly tensioned I still hear some

slapping at times within the

masts. This is most likely the wires that run up the interior

forward sections of the masts

slapping back and forth as the boat pitches, rather than the

sails

themselves. I have been

a little worried about wire chafe from this slapping but I am

unsure what steps to take to

resolve it. Anybody else have suggestions on this?

I hope this helps.

Regards, Gary Silver

Hello fellow Amel sailors,

I own a SM #266, but do not have any of the (Amel)manuals for

her.

Question:
Recently when the sails are furled I can hear the rolled up

mass

gently banging against the inside of both the main and mizzen
masts. I would like to know how to tighen the internal rig to

make

the (I don't know the correct name) aluminum tube that the

sail

is

hanked to tighter to stop the banging. On the main mast Stbd

side

there is a fixture that is on a slide. There is a line on it

that

goes through the mast and to a winch. Is this where I get the
desired tension? What is the correct tension? How about the

mizzen?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266
currently at anchor, Store Bay, Tobago

we just removed painted rebearinged and rerigged our main on maramu 192.
(1985, 20 yr old rigging)
also rebuilt motors and worm drives and rewired. both our masts made lots
of noise. since the top on our masts are open to elements we pulled up a
scotch guard pad (used for sanding, but will let water pass through) on a
seperate messenger line ( with knots and wire ties) up the wire channel to
shut it the __ up. it is now quiet. we now have the mizzen off and are
redoing all and will even put a pad up the halyard channel to shut it up as
well. its not like it goes up and down all that much. i expect this mast
deal to last me and someone else the rest of our lives. removal of forestay
from the extrusion has been a big deal and pictures and details will follow
for maramu owners who are thinking of rerigging. we can tell you lots of
stuff not to do.

ken coats and judy golden
sv golden daze
maramu 192

--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Tony,

My husband suggest you slightly unfurl the main inside the mast, to
helps cushion it as well as having the correct halyad tension.
Happy Sailing
Alex & Trak
'Tirando' #228 SM

Tony,

Did you try tightening the outhaul when the sail ids furled?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Roger Banks
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging Question



Hi Tony

Can you not either slacken or tighten the halyard tension so that

the

mainsail would not be suspended loosely. In the later added goiot
(maybe the word you are looking for) on my older boat, there is no
room for the sail to slop around, but certainly the main halyard
controls its tension.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28 Zorba

On 22/08/2006, at 8:31 AM, agav8ter wrote:

Thank you Gary for the reply.

I did obtain an Amel CD. It is for the SM but has a different
engine, battery charger and some other things than my boat #266.

I

was able to read and understand the way to change the tension on

the

halyards (I do not have the Amel loop for the main). I was not
abale to find info on the (for the lack of the proper term)

furling

tubes. I can see by looking through the sail slot on the main

that

the entire furled sail is gently going back and forth as we

swing on

the hook, with the entire mass "slapping" the inside of the mast.
When slepping forward it has the soft sound of doom, doom, doom

as

it hits. It's the reference to DOOM that has me concerned!

Thanks again for the reply and I am all ears for for info.

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%

40yahoogroups.com>

yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@>

wrote:

Hi Tony:

It would be a good idea to get the owners manual for your boat.

It is full of very useful

information. Amel also produced a CD ROM that has the entire SM

owners manual in it

and could be shipped to you easily for viewing on you computer.

Just Email Amel at their

web site address and or call them and I am sure that you can

obtain the manual and/or CD

ROM from them.

The main and mizzen halyards are tensioned in different ways.

The

mizzen halyard is

taken on the mizzen mast port side winch, then you release port

side clutch where the

halyard exits the mast. You tension the halyard, without load

on

the mizzen sail, until the

tack lacings near the furling gear box are taught. Set the

clutch

and stow the excess

halyard.

The main halyard requires a looped piece of line, originally

supplied by Amel and of the

same color code as the main halyard, that attaches to the track

mounted car on the

starboard side of the main mast. Take tension off the car with

the looped line taken to

one of the main mast winches (usuallly I use the larger lower

one), disengage the locking

pin, tension the halyard until the sail's tack lacings are

taught

and the locking pin engages

one of the track holes. Again is is important to have the sail

unfurled and without load on

it (luffing) while you tension the halyard. This is all easier

done than described. Amel

recommends that you ease the halyard tensions when the sails

won't

be used for some

time.

Even with the halyards properly tensioned I still hear some

slapping at times within the

masts. This is most likely the wires that run up the interior

forward sections of the masts

slapping back and forth as the boat pitches, rather than the

sails

themselves. I have been

a little worried about wire chafe from this slapping but I am

unsure what steps to take to

resolve it. Anybody else have suggestions on this?

I hope this helps.

Regards, Gary Silver

Hello fellow Amel sailors,

I own a SM #266, but do not have any of the (Amel)manuals for

her.

Question:
Recently when the sails are furled I can hear the rolled up

mass

gently banging against the inside of both the main and mizzen
masts. I would like to know how to tighen the internal rig to

make

the (I don't know the correct name) aluminum tube that the

sail

is

hanked to tighter to stop the banging. On the main mast Stbd

side

there is a fixture that is on a slide. There is a line on it

that

goes through the mast and to a winch. Is this where I get the
desired tension? What is the correct tension? How about the

mizzen?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266
currently at anchor, Store Bay, Tobago

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Tony,

Did you try tightening the outhaul when the sail ids furled?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Roger Banks
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging Question



Hi Tony

Can you not either slacken or tighten the halyard tension so that the
mainsail would not be suspended loosely. In the later added goiot
(maybe the word you are looking for) on my older boat, there is no
room for the sail to slop around, but certainly the main halyard
controls its tension.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28 Zorba

On 22/08/2006, at 8:31 AM, agav8ter wrote:

Thank you Gary for the reply.

I did obtain an Amel CD. It is for the SM but has a different
engine, battery charger and some other things than my boat #266. I
was able to read and understand the way to change the tension on the
halyards (I do not have the Amel loop for the main). I was not
abale to find info on the (for the lack of the proper term) furling
tubes. I can see by looking through the sail slot on the main that
the entire furled sail is gently going back and forth as we swing on
the hook, with the entire mass "slapping" the inside of the mast.
When slepping forward it has the soft sound of doom, doom, doom as
it hits. It's the reference to DOOM that has me concerned!

Thanks again for the reply and I am all ears for for info.

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...>

wrote:

Hi Tony:

It would be a good idea to get the owners manual for your boat.

It is full of very useful

information. Amel also produced a CD ROM that has the entire SM

owners manual in it

and could be shipped to you easily for viewing on you computer.

Just Email Amel at their

web site address and or call them and I am sure that you can

obtain the manual and/or CD

ROM from them.

The main and mizzen halyards are tensioned in different ways. The

mizzen halyard is

taken on the mizzen mast port side winch, then you release port

side clutch where the

halyard exits the mast. You tension the halyard, without load on

the mizzen sail, until the

tack lacings near the furling gear box are taught. Set the clutch

and stow the excess

halyard.

The main halyard requires a looped piece of line, originally

supplied by Amel and of the

same color code as the main halyard, that attaches to the track

mounted car on the

starboard side of the main mast. Take tension off the car with

the looped line taken to

one of the main mast winches (usuallly I use the larger lower

one), disengage the locking

pin, tension the halyard until the sail's tack lacings are taught

and the locking pin engages

one of the track holes. Again is is important to have the sail

unfurled and without load on

it (luffing) while you tension the halyard. This is all easier

done than described. Amel

recommends that you ease the halyard tensions when the sails won't

be used for some

time.

Even with the halyards properly tensioned I still hear some

slapping at times within the

masts. This is most likely the wires that run up the interior

forward sections of the masts

slapping back and forth as the boat pitches, rather than the sails

themselves. I have been

a little worried about wire chafe from this slapping but I am

unsure what steps to take to

resolve it. Anybody else have suggestions on this?

I hope this helps.

Regards, Gary Silver

Hello fellow Amel sailors,

I own a SM #266, but do not have any of the (Amel)manuals for

her.

Question:
Recently when the sails are furled I can hear the rolled up mass
gently banging against the inside of both the main and mizzen
masts. I would like to know how to tighen the internal rig to

make

the (I don't know the correct name) aluminum tube that the sail

is

hanked to tighter to stop the banging. On the main mast Stbd

side

there is a fixture that is on a slide. There is a line on it

that

goes through the mast and to a winch. Is this where I get the
desired tension? What is the correct tension? How about the

mizzen?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266
currently at anchor, Store Bay, Tobago

Hi Tony

Can you not either slacken or tighten the halyard tension so that the
mainsail would not be suspended loosely. In the later added goiot
(maybe the word you are looking for) on my older boat, there is no
room for the sail to slop around, but certainly the main halyard
controls its tension.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28 Zorba

Thank you Gary for the reply.

I did obtain an Amel CD. It is for the SM but has a different
engine, battery charger and some other things than my boat #266. I
was able to read and understand the way to change the tension on the
halyards (I do not have the Amel loop for the main). I was not
abale to find info on the (for the lack of the proper term) furling
tubes. I can see by looking through the sail slot on the main that
the entire furled sail is gently going back and forth as we swing on
the hook, with the entire mass "slapping" the inside of the mast.
When slepping forward it has the soft sound of doom, doom, doom as
it hits. It's the reference to DOOM that has me concerned!

Thanks again for the reply and I am all ears for for info.

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266



--- In amelyachtowners@..., amelliahona <no_reply@...>
wrote:

Hi Tony:

It would be a good idea to get the owners manual for your boat.

It is full of very useful

information. Amel also produced a CD ROM that has the entire SM

owners manual in it

and could be shipped to you easily for viewing on you computer.

Just Email Amel at their

web site address and or call them and I am sure that you can

obtain the manual and/or CD

ROM from them.

The main and mizzen halyards are tensioned in different ways. The

mizzen halyard is

taken on the mizzen mast port side winch, then you release port

side clutch where the

halyard exits the mast. You tension the halyard, without load on

the mizzen sail, until the

tack lacings near the furling gear box are taught. Set the clutch

and stow the excess

halyard.

The main halyard requires a looped piece of line, originally

supplied by Amel and of the

same color code as the main halyard, that attaches to the track

mounted car on the

starboard side of the main mast. Take tension off the car with

the looped line taken to

one of the main mast winches (usuallly I use the larger lower

one), disengage the locking

pin, tension the halyard until the sail's tack lacings are taught

and the locking pin engages

one of the track holes. Again is is important to have the sail

unfurled and without load on

it (luffing) while you tension the halyard. This is all easier

done than described. Amel

recommends that you ease the halyard tensions when the sails won't

be used for some

time.

Even with the halyards properly tensioned I still hear some

slapping at times within the

masts. This is most likely the wires that run up the interior

forward sections of the masts

slapping back and forth as the boat pitches, rather than the sails

themselves. I have been

a little worried about wire chafe from this slapping but I am

unsure what steps to take to

resolve it. Anybody else have suggestions on this?

I hope this helps.

Regards, Gary Silver

Hello fellow Amel sailors,

I own a SM #266, but do not have any of the (Amel)manuals for

her.

Question:
Recently when the sails are furled I can hear the rolled up mass
gently banging against the inside of both the main and mizzen
masts. I would like to know how to tighen the internal rig to

make

the (I don't know the correct name) aluminum tube that the sail

is

hanked to tighter to stop the banging. On the main mast Stbd

side

there is a fixture that is on a slide. There is a line on it

that

goes through the mast and to a winch. Is this where I get the
desired tension? What is the correct tension? How about the

mizzen?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266
currently at anchor, Store Bay, Tobago

Hi Tony:

It would be a good idea to get the owners manual for your boat. It is full of very useful
information. Amel also produced a CD ROM that has the entire SM owners manual in it
and could be shipped to you easily for viewing on you computer. Just Email Amel at their
web site address and or call them and I am sure that you can obtain the manual and/or CD
ROM from them.

The main and mizzen halyards are tensioned in different ways. The mizzen halyard is
taken on the mizzen mast port side winch, then you release port side clutch where the
halyard exits the mast. You tension the halyard, without load on the mizzen sail, until the
tack lacings near the furling gear box are taught. Set the clutch and stow the excess
halyard.

The main halyard requires a looped piece of line, originally supplied by Amel and of the
same color code as the main halyard, that attaches to the track mounted car on the
starboard side of the main mast. Take tension off the car with the looped line taken to
one of the main mast winches (usuallly I use the larger lower one), disengage the locking
pin, tension the halyard until the sail's tack lacings are taught and the locking pin engages
one of the track holes. Again is is important to have the sail unfurled and without load on
it (luffing) while you tension the halyard. This is all easier done than described. Amel
recommends that you ease the halyard tensions when the sails won't be used for some
time.

Even with the halyards properly tensioned I still hear some slapping at times within the
masts. This is most likely the wires that run up the interior forward sections of the masts
slapping back and forth as the boat pitches, rather than the sails themselves. I have been
a little worried about wire chafe from this slapping but I am unsure what steps to take to
resolve it. Anybody else have suggestions on this?

I hope this helps.

Regards, Gary Silver

Hello fellow Amel sailors,

I own a SM #266, but do not have any of the (Amel)manuals for her.

Question:
Recently when the sails are furled I can hear the rolled up mass
gently banging against the inside of both the main and mizzen
masts. I would like to know how to tighen the internal rig to make
the (I don't know the correct name) aluminum tube that the sail is
hanked to tighter to stop the banging. On the main mast Stbd side
there is a fixture that is on a slide. There is a line on it that
goes through the mast and to a winch. Is this where I get the
desired tension? What is the correct tension? How about the mizzen?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266
currently at anchor, Store Bay, Tobago

I have replaced the carpet and the curtains in my sm2000 #369. The
carpets are in good condition and I would like to sell them - $500 plus
shipping. The curtains are also in good condition - $500 plus shipping.
Peter Pappas "Callisto"

Does anyone know how to adjust the pressure settings on the Super
Maramu's FEIT (?)freshwater pump? I removed the plastic pressure
switch cover and there appears to be two screw adjusters - neither of
which has much effect. My problem is with the low setting at which the
pump should turn on.
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug SM331

Hi,

We have Santorin 004 and our headlinings were in need of replacement after about 13/14 years due to the fact that it had been in Med and tropics all its life. The foam backing had crumbled away. As we could not afford to either have it replaced commercially and felt the AMEL lining, good as it is, was rather expensive we decided to do it ourselves. We bought the fabric, glues etc. in England and put it up ourselves using the old linings as patterns. It is an unpleasant, messy, job but quite possible to get a very good finish (I'm not sure if a professional would have done better but I would have to give them the benifit of the doubt.) and we saved a great deal of money. We know other Amel owners who have also done the same as well as owners of other builders boats. We understand that 10 year old Westerly Boats have the same problem.

Otherwise we think the Santorin is fantastic.

Go for it!

Robin and Maggie Cooter,
Belouga

Robi

restlessmen <john.stonier@...> wrote:
I am in search of a SM or Santorin and I understand that after 10-12
years the ceiling foam padding deteriorates due to the heat and
requires a total replacment of the lining which Amel charges Euro
12,000 for.

Can anyone corfirm this, and from what date and build number,
particularily on the Santorin, is this no longer a problem. Presumably
Amel used a different material from then on.

Is there a cheaper fix for this ?

Are there any other maintenance issues I should be particularily aware
of while looking for a used Santorin ?

Many Thanks,

john Stonier






---------------------------------
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Mark,
You might find it handy to add a triple 12 volt plug receptacle on the
nav station under the radar next to the lamp. It is available from
radio shack very cheap. I also added one at the dressing table in the
aft cabin. I hooked that one into the 12 volt TV power supply. It is
handy for charging phones, radios, ipods, and computers.
Fair winds,
Eric

I have found a source in the US for the 3-prong plugs used in the
Amel for the fan outlets and the 12 and 24 volt outlets at the nav
station. These are the Italian Btinico Spina 2P+T 10A plugs. They
can be purchased from Interpower as part number 88010771 for $8.87 by
calling 800-662-2290 . On the web, you can find this plug at
http://www.interpower.com/scripts/wsisa.dll/WService=ic/p80form.p?w_part=88010771

The ones I received from Interpower are identical to the extra plug
that Amel gave me. I hope this information is useful.

Mark Pitt "Sabbatical III" ASM #419

Hi Chuck, Sounds as though your problem is more serious than ours.
After returning to our boat which had been on the hard for four months, we discovered that the drum was frozen in position and would not turn at all. Without removing the machine we undertook some exploratory work. On the inside surface of the wash drum, there are two access cover plates. Upon removing the forwrd plate (closest to the salon settee) we discovered that soap deposits had crystalized inside the space to such an extent that it was impossibke to move the drum. After a good soak with WD40 we chipped out the soap concrete and gave the drum a vigerous tug which freed it up. We then ran an empty wash cycle to clean up the WD40 and it has worked fine every since. This doesn't sound like your problem but maybe some time in the future................

Regards, Ken
SM2000, 391

Hi Mark,

I don't want to get in a jackpot with the CLIMA guy here as
he is a good fellow. However, the head of CLIMA in Italy
was on my boat several years ago and told me, without
question, that 60 cycle power would not hurt the air
conditioner/heater. Matter of fact they put out 9000 BTU at
60 cycles because they run faster than when on 50 cycles
(8000 BTU) from the genset.

You may have shore power problems or the units may need
service/recharging with refrigerant. Get Eric to tell you
how to mount a voltmeter/cycle meter in front/ahead of your
220 volt circuit breaker board. You can then check shore
power before you energize the 220 volt panel by engaging the
master G.F.I.

The new 54 has a voltmeter now standard. By the time you
get your own 54 someday, I'm pretty sure there will be a
cycle meter as well.

All the best,
Joel
AMEL 54, HOLLIS, #14