Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] New owner?

Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
 

Rob,

Santorins are generally tough but, as with any boat, there can be problems. A certain amout does depend on age and number as updating does take place.

We have an old Santorin and our experience is as follows -

Do check the the genoa furling gear to make sure that the Manual/electric changeover leaver is not stuck in electric. Take a look at the base of the the foil and make sure that is solidly attached to the furling gear.

Have a look at the furling gear on the mast and make sure the drive unit is well secured and there is no splitting of the metal on the mast where the unit is secured - it is not unknown, will it disengage?

Check the anchor winch switches they can be a source of problems - see earlier correpondence.

Amels are rather prone to paint blistering on the mast and boom. It can be rubbed down and touched up using a Renault colour car paint but careful inspection will reveal this!

Find out if the headlinings are foam backed or felt backed. The older foam back really don't last more than 10 years in hot climates and replacing them are either expensive and, if you do it yourself, a long, messy job. Do check them carefully.

In the engine room have a really good look at the right angle drive box on the shaft. If there is any sign of oil leakage be suspicious. If it is a seal on the shaft it can be replaced (means lifting the engine aft a few inches) but if it is a gasket it is a problem as they are no longer made and AMEL want to replace the whole unit at high cost. A sympathetic engineer can make you a replacement gasket but you need somebody who understands AMELs.

Also have a good look at the belt driving the shaft charger alternator as if this is worn it means lifting the engine back a few inches to repace -(more expence!) Does it have a spare fitted ready to replace a broken belt?

Other AMEL "specialities" that need to be looked at carefully (or find a surveyor who knows about AMELS) is the bow thruster - see it work, look for wear in the lifting wire, look at the prop, some are really chewed up, when was the oil last changed etc.; Have a good look at the stearing gear for wear, chain tightness, quadrant in the after cabin; when its out of the water look for oil leakage around the prop and from the drain cock (port side just forward of the prop.), when were the seals last changed?

Those are some of the main points for the Santorin and from there on it's usual type checking the boat before you pay for a survey. However I'm sure that other owners will come back with comments!

Regards,

Robin.

rob purdie <r.purdie@...> wrote:
I intent to change from a Rival 41 to an Amel Santorin
and have just joined the group. Can any member give me good advice
on general survey issues which might not be obvious to a newcomer to
the design?






---------------------------------
All new Yahoo! Mail "The new Interface is stunning in its simplicity and ease of use." - PC Magazine


SM chain counter and anchor windlass

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Hi Ian,
We have just got back to Malta and seen your posting.My chain counter
has always been hopeless at measuring outgoing chain possibly because
it runs out so fast. It is useful when up anchoring if we zero the
meter and know how much chain is out because it is accurate at the
relatively slow speed counting up.
The two holes that you mention are there to insert securing bolts to
hold the counter mounting nascelle on the side of the winch motor
casing.I had to remove this casing when the rubber boot on the up
switch needed changing.
The switches on the casing are an Amel feature for which holes were
drilled about 26mm in diameter to take switches of 22mm diameter on a
curved surface. The Turkish agent for Lofrans naturally had no spares
but he sent me two smaller push switches plus a gasket for the casing
for 50 euros. The chandlery changed the switches for 22mm ones but
these had a different fine thread to the Amel ones which also have a
locating flange on the securing nuts so I merely used the new boots on
the original switches and like Amel used a lot of silicone to seal
them in place.
When the casing is off it exposes the wiring feeding the motor(three
wires) plus three wires from the switches to the solenoids and the
wiring from the chain counter which is connected to the wiring harness
in the space in the motor housing.
We have never been very happy with the placement of the anchor up
switch as Anne likes to lean over the pulpit to watch the chain coming
up etc and the switch is very badly placed for watching someone being
hoisted up the mast on the windlass rope drum. So I bought a deck
mounting foot switch made by Quick, the other Italian winch maker for
15euros and mounted it forward on the deck, portside, just ahead of
the builtin conduit for the port nav light and connected it to the
wiring harness. The wires to the switches are two in a pale yellow
colour and one in a pale orange and the connections have to made in
the port foredeck locker because the wiring out of the windlass and
into the solenoids etc in the forward cabin is thoroughly waterproofed
with large quantities of silicone sealant.

Best wishes to you, Anne and John, SM319


Re: regular service for the 220V high pressure watermaker pump?

asm283 <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Mark

Yes the pump oilneeds to be changed every 500 hours or every few
years. It is quite a simple procedure. make sure you use the proper
CAT oil for the pump. I understand its some kind of soy/vegetable oil
that will not contaminate the water in case of a leak.

Vito

ASM 283

Wanderer

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "markmpitt" <mark_pitt@...>
wrote:

I have a Super Maramu with the 150 liter per hour watermaker.
Does
the 220V high-pressure pump require some kind of regular service? I
do not have any documentation recommending any maintenance but I want
to be certain before I head out to sea. It is the "Cat Pump" with the
blue oil reservoir and the faucet drain. Do I need to change oil or
seals? The pump works fine.

Mark "Sabbatical III" ASM #419


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM chain counter

Dr. Seidel <mseidel@...>
 

Re:chain counter-Sundance, sm349 has the same problem.ie. counts up in seconds. Will tackle this winter and post it if we can solve it. Murray Seidel, Wilmington, N.C.

----- Original Message -----
From: "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...>
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Friday, September 15, 2006 4:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM chain counter


Hello Mike,

I have a problem with my chain counter too. When at anchor, the reading
slowly counts down, though never up. I have contacted Pochon and they say
that it is a fault in the circuit board in the display meter. They say they
can fix it if I send the meter back to them. I would say that your problem
is also on this board.

My problem seems to be worse in high temperatures. I wonder where you are
located right now? Also, can you tell me if the two 13 mm holes in the side
of the sensor that is bolted to the left hand side of the windlass are
uncovered, or are they fitted with rubber plugs to keep moisture out? Mine
are open, which seems a a little odd.

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

-------Original Message-------

From: Mike Ondra
Date: 9/15/2006 1:41:04 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM chain counter

When turned on, our chain counter politely counts down, or up after pressing
the Z, in apparent seconds, completely unaffected by what may be happening
at the windlass. Have others experienced this and what is the culprit?

Mike Ondra
Aletes - SM 2000 #240










Yahoo! Groups Links










regular service for the 220V high pressure watermaker pump?

Mark Pitt
 

I have a Super Maramu with the 150 liter per hour watermaker. Does
the 220V high-pressure pump require some kind of regular service? I
do not have any documentation recommending any maintenance but I want
to be certain before I head out to sea. It is the "Cat Pump" with the
blue oil reservoir and the faucet drain. Do I need to change oil or
seals? The pump works fine.

Mark "Sabbatical III" ASM #419


New owner?

rob purdie <r.purdie@...>
 

I intent to change from a Rival 41 to an Amel Santorin
and have just joined the group. Can any member give me good advice
on general survey issues which might not be obvious to a newcomer to the design?


Santorin Owners Manual

john.stonier@btinternet.com <john.stonier@...>
 

I just purchased Santorin #143 Allegra, the second to last built. The
previous owner is French, and only has the French owners manual. I
sent an e-mail to Amel 2 weeks ago and have had no response.

Can anyone help me get a copy of this. I also understand Amel produce
a CDROM for the Super Maramu. Would it make sense to purchase this
from Amel as many of the systems are the same ?

thanks

john stonier


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Head pump

georges pellegrini <dji314@...>
 

Yes, I have it on my Santorin. Installed by the factory.
Georges Pellegrini. Santorin #132

On Sep 19, 2006, at 6:43 PM, joemac4sail wrote:


Hi All
Has anyone retrofitted in a Satorin, a simiar designed holding
tank to the one fitted in the SM2000. I was impressed with >the
simplicity of the design with the tank sitting over the outlet >valve.
Joe McDonnell, Khamsin B

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Willem J. Kroes"
<willem.j.kroes@...> wrote:

I had the same problem this year, but for the first time in 4 years,
afther having replaced both toilets on my Santorin 1992 (with
standard Jabsco's).
I changed the joker valve, and this cured the problem, in any case
for the rest of the season. But, when looking at the failing valve
(new in 2002), I noticed that there was a little bit of play between
the two rubber lips in crossed position. There is another (older)
type of joker valve used in the original R&M toilets, Amel fitted in
the early SM's and Santorins 15 years ago, with just one horizontal
lip. I suppose this type of joker valve will withstand the backflow
pressure better than the new type.

Best Regards,

Willem J. Kroes
Amel Santorin #69
"Kavanga"


--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Udo J. Reich" udo@
wrote:

We have the same problem with our forward tank. I see two
solutions. One is
a one way valve as Gary has suggested. The other one would be to
refit the
tank so that the inflow from the bowl goes into the tank towards
the top of
the tank. Let me know if you come up with any solutions



Udo J. Reich

_____

From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@...]
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 8:52 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Head pump




Mike Ondra wrote:
" We are persistently getting backflow of waste water through the
check
valves
back into the toilet bowl, enough sometimes to fill the bowl.
Besides being
unpleasant at anchor, this can be a mess under sail."

Ian Shepherd wrote:
" I have always had the same problem with the forward head only. I
have
changed the joker valve several times, but it makes little
difference."

Hi Mike and Ian:

I have had the same problem with the forward head only. I
originally
thought it was water siphoning from the fill pump side but I shut
off
the sea water supply valve while under sail and the toilet bowl
filled
with foul water anyway. It was only to a certain level and never
would
overflow the bowl so I think it was just the back flow through the
joker valve of the outflow pipe to the holding tank. Ian, like you
changing the joker valve several times and that DID NOT remedy the
situation. Also it does this with the holding tank empty or
full so
I
don't think it is related to the mode of entry of the outflow pipe
into the holding tank.

I suspect that the joker vavle does not have enough strength to
withstand the pressure head of water that is in the forward head
outflow pipe. As you know this pipe is taller than the aft head
pipe
and thus would have a higher head of pressure. Perhaps
installing a
more robust one way valve in the outflow pipe could be a solution.
I plan to research this a bit more. Nice to know that I am not the
only one out here with this problem. Joel, do you have any
thoughts
on this issue?

Kindest regards, Gary Silver S/V Liahona










Re: Fresh Water Pressure

milesbidwell <mbidwell@...>
 

The problem is most likely caused by blockage between the pump and
the pressure sensor. To fix this, remove the pyramid shaped
connector between the pump and the adjustment box by removing the
many small screws attaching it to the pump. Inside you will see a
small hole that allows water to push against a membrane in the
control box. Cleaning out the hole will probably fix the problem.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "edmund_steele"
<edmundsteele@...> wrote:

Does anyone know how to adjust the pressure settings on the Super
Maramu's FEIT (?)freshwater pump? I removed the plastic pressure
switch cover and there appears to be two screw adjusters - neither
of
which has much effect. My problem is with the low setting at which
the
pump should turn on.
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug SM331


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Head pump

milesbidwell <mbidwell@...>
 

I have found that two liters of pickling strength vinegar and fresh
water pumped through the toilet into the holding tank once a month
makes the jocker valves last much long and largly stops any
backflow. When ever I see any sign of backflow, I change the jocker
valve. This usually fixes the problem for at least two or three
months.



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Udo J. Reich" <udo@...>
wrote:

We have the same problem with our forward tank. I see two
solutions. One is
a one way valve as Gary has suggested. The other one would be to
refit the
tank so that the inflow from the bowl goes into the tank towards
the top of
the tank. Let me know if you come up with any solutions



Udo J. Reich

_____

From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@...]
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 8:52 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Head pump




Mike Ondra wrote:
" We are persistently getting backflow of waste water through the
check
valves
back into the toilet bowl, enough sometimes to fill the bowl.
Besides being
unpleasant at anchor, this can be a mess under sail."

Ian Shepherd wrote:
" I have always had the same problem with the forward head only. I
have
changed the joker valve several times, but it makes little
difference."

Hi Mike and Ian:

I have had the same problem with the forward head only. I
originally
thought it was water siphoning from the fill pump side but I shut
off
the sea water supply valve while under sail and the toilet bowl
filled
with foul water anyway. It was only to a certain level and never
would
overflow the bowl so I think it was just the back flow through the
joker valve of the outflow pipe to the holding tank. Ian, like you
changing the joker valve several times and that DID NOT remedy the
situation. Also it does this with the holding tank empty or full
so I
don't think it is related to the mode of entry of the outflow pipe
into the holding tank.

I suspect that the joker vavle does not have enough strength to
withstand the pressure head of water that is in the forward head
outflow pipe. As you know this pipe is taller than the aft head
pipe
and thus would have a higher head of pressure. Perhaps installing a
more robust one way valve in the outflow pipe could be a solution.
I plan to research this a bit more. Nice to know that I am not the
only one out here with this problem. Joel, do you have any thoughts
on this issue?

Kindest regards, Gary Silver S/V Liahona









solar panels

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

I've just installed 2 130 watt solar panels on my SM .I put them on the top of the aft cabin, attached to the hand rails,with stainless steel tubing and clamps. The only hole I drilled in the boat was a small hole in the back of the missen mast to run the wire. I used the new solar boaster, and it seems to work great. I should be able to leave the boat at anchor or on the hard for a few days and keep the fridge and freezer going. I posted a few pictures of it under moondogs file if any ones interested. John 'Moondog' Sm248

_________________________________________________________________
Try the new Live Search today! http://imagine-windowslive.com/minisites/searchlaunch/?locale=en-us&FORM=WLMTAG


(No subject)

Robert C. Lavigne <rcl@...>
 

At risk of repeating someone's suffering .....I came across this the other day

http://www.cooperss.com/assetdetail.php?show=marine&ID=24043&P=A


Rio Dulce - draft limitations of bar entrance

Zanareva
 

We're planning on heading toward Mexico, Belize and beyond this
winter. Rio Dulce also sounds tempting to visit. One of the SSCA
members had this to say about maximum draft when I asked him today.

Steve Pavlidis of S/V IV Play wrote:

A 6' can cross the bar at most times, a 7' draft must wait for a
high tide, and tides there run only about 1'-1.5' at times, but it is
doable. I've seen 7 1/2' drafts come in, and one 8' draft that had to
be hauled over the bar. Just make sure you get a good read on the
tides at the mouth of the river, most tide programs will handle this.
I've just sounded the bar again for the 12th time and the results
will be out in my new guide. If you put the sea buoy on your stern
and steer 225 for the center of the canyon mouth you won't have less
than six feet at MLW. But you MUST watch out for the tide here that
when on the flood will push you to the south and on the ebb to the
north where the shallower water lies. Then, when you're over the
bar, continue until you're past the Texaco fuel dock before turning
to starboard to anchor, most folks turn too soon and run aground.

Steve publishes cruising guides. Check out www.islandhopping.com

Best regards
Richard Tate
SM "Spice"


Re: Head pump

joseph mc donnell
 

Hi All
Has anyone retrofitted in a Satorin, a simiar designed holding
tank to the one fitted in the SM2000. I was impressed with >the
simplicity of the design with the tank sitting over the outlet >valve.
Joe McDonnell, Khamsin B


--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Willem J. Kroes"
<willem.j.kroes@...> wrote:

I had the same problem this year, but for the first time in 4 years,
afther having replaced both toilets on my Santorin 1992 (with
standard Jabsco's).
I changed the joker valve, and this cured the problem, in any case
for the rest of the season. But, when looking at the failing valve
(new in 2002), I noticed that there was a little bit of play between
the two rubber lips in crossed position. There is another (older)
type of joker valve used in the original R&M toilets, Amel fitted in
the early SM's and Santorins 15 years ago, with just one horizontal
lip. I suppose this type of joker valve will withstand the backflow
pressure better than the new type.

Best Regards,

Willem J. Kroes
Amel Santorin #69
"Kavanga"


--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Udo J. Reich" udo@
wrote:

We have the same problem with our forward tank. I see two
solutions. One is
a one way valve as Gary has suggested. The other one would be to
refit the
tank so that the inflow from the bowl goes into the tank towards
the top of
the tank. Let me know if you come up with any solutions



Udo J. Reich

_____

From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@...]
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 8:52 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Head pump




Mike Ondra wrote:
" We are persistently getting backflow of waste water through the
check
valves
back into the toilet bowl, enough sometimes to fill the bowl.
Besides being
unpleasant at anchor, this can be a mess under sail."

Ian Shepherd wrote:
" I have always had the same problem with the forward head only. I
have
changed the joker valve several times, but it makes little
difference."

Hi Mike and Ian:

I have had the same problem with the forward head only. I
originally
thought it was water siphoning from the fill pump side but I shut
off
the sea water supply valve while under sail and the toilet bowl
filled
with foul water anyway. It was only to a certain level and never
would
overflow the bowl so I think it was just the back flow through the
joker valve of the outflow pipe to the holding tank. Ian, like you
changing the joker valve several times and that DID NOT remedy the
situation. Also it does this with the holding tank empty or full so
I
don't think it is related to the mode of entry of the outflow pipe
into the holding tank.

I suspect that the joker vavle does not have enough strength to
withstand the pressure head of water that is in the forward head
outflow pipe. As you know this pipe is taller than the aft head pipe
and thus would have a higher head of pressure. Perhaps installing a
more robust one way valve in the outflow pipe could be a solution.
I plan to research this a bit more. Nice to know that I am not the
only one out here with this problem. Joel, do you have any thoughts
on this issue?

Kindest regards, Gary Silver S/V Liahona







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: MaxiProp order form question

Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
 

Hi Bob

Thanks for taking the trouble to post a copy of this diagram; I do in
fact already have this. What I think I need in order to complete the
specification for the MaxProp is the reduction in the gearbox. Any
ideas? If not, I guess I'll send them what I have plus your notes and
see if they can sort it out. Best thing would be if I could get a
reply from Olivier.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28 Zorba

--- In amelyachtowners@..., Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
wrote:

I'm wondering if anyone can help me with a factoid please, having
tried Olivier without response unfortunately. I own Mango 28,
built
in 1982. It has the Perkins 4.236 motor with Hurth HBW400-2R
gearbox.
For the purpose of ordering a MaxiProp, can you please let me know
what would be the reduction at the propellor?

Regards, Roger, Mango 28, Zorba

Roger,


I posted the mechanical drawing of the prop shaft in the pistures
section. It appears to be the original drawing from Juin 1977. I have
a few notes from our installation in 1992. The shaft is 35 mm, Zinks
are 70mm, Prop is 22". For pitch adjustment: Blade Setting angle 20
degrees-15.0. Right rotation 20 degrees, X (-) is K, Y (.) is E
Let me know if this is sufficient.
Bob
Tempest
Mango 44
wrpace@...






Re: Head pump

Willem J. Kroes <willem.j.kroes@...>
 

I had the same problem this year, but for the first time in 4 years,
afther having replaced both toilets on my Santorin 1992 (with
standard Jabsco's).
I changed the joker valve, and this cured the problem, in any case
for the rest of the season. But, when looking at the failing valve
(new in 2002), I noticed that there was a little bit of play between
the two rubber lips in crossed position. There is another (older)
type of joker valve used in the original R&M toilets, Amel fitted in
the early SM's and Santorins 15 years ago, with just one horizontal
lip. I suppose this type of joker valve will withstand the backflow
pressure better than the new type.

Best Regards,

Willem J. Kroes
Amel Santorin #69
"Kavanga"


--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Udo J. Reich" <udo@...>
wrote:

We have the same problem with our forward tank. I see two
solutions. One is
a one way valve as Gary has suggested. The other one would be to
refit the
tank so that the inflow from the bowl goes into the tank towards
the top of
the tank. Let me know if you come up with any solutions



Udo J. Reich

_____

From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@...]
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 8:52 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Head pump




Mike Ondra wrote:
" We are persistently getting backflow of waste water through the
check
valves
back into the toilet bowl, enough sometimes to fill the bowl.
Besides being
unpleasant at anchor, this can be a mess under sail."

Ian Shepherd wrote:
" I have always had the same problem with the forward head only. I
have
changed the joker valve several times, but it makes little
difference."

Hi Mike and Ian:

I have had the same problem with the forward head only. I
originally
thought it was water siphoning from the fill pump side but I shut
off
the sea water supply valve while under sail and the toilet bowl
filled
with foul water anyway. It was only to a certain level and never
would
overflow the bowl so I think it was just the back flow through the
joker valve of the outflow pipe to the holding tank. Ian, like you
changing the joker valve several times and that DID NOT remedy the
situation. Also it does this with the holding tank empty or full so
I
don't think it is related to the mode of entry of the outflow pipe
into the holding tank.

I suspect that the joker vavle does not have enough strength to
withstand the pressure head of water that is in the forward head
outflow pipe. As you know this pipe is taller than the aft head pipe
and thus would have a higher head of pressure. Perhaps installing a
more robust one way valve in the outflow pipe could be a solution.
I plan to research this a bit more. Nice to know that I am not the
only one out here with this problem. Joel, do you have any thoughts
on this issue?

Kindest regards, Gary Silver S/V Liahona









LADY DIVINA, SM 317, FOR SALE

L. CAMERON <solarconstruction@...>
 

LADY DIVINA, SM 317, YEAR 2001, IS NOW FOR SALE.
ASKING PRICE US$336,000, DELAWARE, USA, REGISTRATION.
IMMACULATE CONDITION, LESS THAN 2000 hrs ON YANMAR DIESEL/ONAN GENSET. NEW GATEFF SAILS, DIVE COMPRESSOR + MANY EXTRAS & SPARES. READY TODAY FOR WORLD CRUISING.
NOW LYING PT. CRUZ, VENEZ.
FOR MORE INFO PLEASE CONTACT: MR. LANE MOLLER
solarconstruction@...




---------------------------------
All-new Yahoo! Mail - Fire up a more powerful email and get things done faster.


LADY DIVINA, SM 317, FOR SALE

L. CAMERON <solarconstruction@...>
 

LADY DIVINA, SM 317, YEAR 2001, IS NOW FOR SALE.
ASKING PRICE US$336,000, DELAWARE, USA, REGISTRATION.
IMMACULATE CONDITION, LESS THAN 2000 hrs ON YANMAR DIESEL/ONAN GENSET. NEW GATEFF SAILS, DIVE COMPRESSOR + MANY EXTRAS & SPARES. READY TODAY FOR WORLD CRUISING.
NOW LYING PT. CRUZ, VENEZ.
FOR MORE INFO PLEASE CONTACT: MR. LANE MOLLER
solarconstruction@...




---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
Get on board. You're invited to try the new Yahoo! Mail.


LADY DIVINA, SM 317, FOR SALE

L. CAMERON <solarconstruction@...>
 

LADY DIVINA, SM 317, YEAR 2001, IS NOW FOR SALE.
ASKING PRICE US$336,000, DELAWARE, USA, REGISTRATION.
IMMACULATE CONDITION, LESS THAN 2000 hrs ON YANMAR DIESEL/ONAN GENSET. NEW GATEFF SAILS, DIVE COMPRESSOR + MANY EXTRAS & SPARES. READY TODAY FOR WORLD CRUISING.
NOW LYING PT. CRUZ, VENEZ.
FOR MORE INFO PLEASE CONTACT: MR. LANE MOLLER
solarconstruction@...




---------------------------------
Talk is cheap. Use Yahoo! Messenger to make PC-to-Phone calls. Great rates starting at 1ยข/min.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Head pump

Udo J. Reich <udo@...>
 

We have the same problem with our forward tank. I see two solutions. One is
a one way valve as Gary has suggested. The other one would be to refit the
tank so that the inflow from the bowl goes into the tank towards the top of
the tank. Let me know if you come up with any solutions



Udo J. Reich

_____

From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@...]
Sent: Sunday, September 17, 2006 8:52 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Head pump




Mike Ondra wrote:
" We are persistently getting backflow of waste water through the check
valves
back into the toilet bowl, enough sometimes to fill the bowl. Besides being
unpleasant at anchor, this can be a mess under sail."

Ian Shepherd wrote:
" I have always had the same problem with the forward head only. I have
changed the joker valve several times, but it makes little difference."

Hi Mike and Ian:

I have had the same problem with the forward head only. I originally
thought it was water siphoning from the fill pump side but I shut off
the sea water supply valve while under sail and the toilet bowl filled
with foul water anyway. It was only to a certain level and never would
overflow the bowl so I think it was just the back flow through the
joker valve of the outflow pipe to the holding tank. Ian, like you
changing the joker valve several times and that DID NOT remedy the
situation. Also it does this with the holding tank empty or full so I
don't think it is related to the mode of entry of the outflow pipe
into the holding tank.

I suspect that the joker vavle does not have enough strength to
withstand the pressure head of water that is in the forward head
outflow pipe. As you know this pipe is taller than the aft head pipe
and thus would have a higher head of pressure. Perhaps installing a
more robust one way valve in the outflow pipe could be a solution.
I plan to research this a bit more. Nice to know that I am not the
only one out here with this problem. Joel, do you have any thoughts
on this issue?

Kindest regards, Gary Silver S/V Liahona