Date   

Heads,sheets and gangplank suspenders

Anne and John Hollamby <hollamby@...>
 

The build up in the plumbing is common in urinals and in the Uk plumbers use hydrochloric acid which is known as muriatic acid in the US, to disolve it Poisionous fumes are released and can damage lungs! I was aware of the problem because a friend worked on an old Swan charter boat where the pipes were so blocked that toilet paper could not be flushed through. So on my last boat I fitted one of those pneumatic push switches which are used on staircases lighting in converted houses and set it for 10 seconds in the guest head as guests could not understand the need to make sure that everything is flushed out of the system. I have checked and the holding tank on my boat takes 24 10 second flushes to start overflowing.
The genoa and main sheets are, in my opinion, oversized, and also do not fit easily into the self-tailing devices.I checked the recommendations of Marlow Ropes UK. The Super Maramu genny is 65 sq mtrs and the main 35 sq mtrs. Marlows recommend 14 mm for a and genoa up to 50 sq mtrs and 12 mm for a main up to 32 sq mtrs or 14 mm for up to 50 sq mtrs. based on thir 16 plait matt and double braid. We have been using 12 mm line for the main sheet for a couple of years and have just changed to 14 mm double braid for the genoa sheets. Both are much easier to handle and jam easily into the self tailers.
Puzzled by the words Dyneema and Spectra I am told by Marlow that Dyneema is a Dutch product and so far as I can make out Spectra is the same thing, preumably made somewhere else.Dyneema comes in two qualities the stronger one being called D2 or Dyneema SK75 by Marlow and improved Dyneema by the big European mail order house Compass. I suspect that my new mainsheet is dyneema but it is nearly impossible to find out in a Greek chandlery.These lines are all colour coded in some way but the code is seemingly secret.
My new mainsheet, Liros, 16 braid, made and bought in Greece, was to be 2x19 metres long plus 4 mtrs so that it would be longer when using the poles. The chandlery in Crete sells rope by the kilo and they roughly measured 42mtrs which weighed nearly 5 kilos and cost 44 euros or about £30. When measured on board it was 43.5mtrs and the equivalent cost of the same rope from Compass would be about £112 or if Marlow rope was bought in Malta about £300!
We have altered our passurelle by fixing a piece of teak about 5cms x 2 cms x450cms underneath the end secured with saddle clips on tape insulation and with a U bolt at each end. There is a caster wheel at each end which have to be replaced eery couple of years. We have a double line with a wooden spacer about 70 cms long which we hook up to the halyard on the mizzen spreader to suspend the end of the passurelle. We saw a big super expensive yacht last year with a passurelle which was suspended on a halyard from the top of the mast and which did not sag or spring back up when used by the burly crew so we have changed the halyard to 8mm and the trapeze with 6mm dyneema and nearly completely eliminated bounce. I assume that the super yacht must have been using an even more exotic line such as Nomex or Aramid.

Greetings from Southern Crete, Anne and John, SM 319

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Maramu to lend

cptcc2001 <cptcc2001@...>
 

Hello

I am the owner of a 1983 Maramu. I am looking for someone to sail my
boat from Turkey to Thailand. Anyone interested?


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repowering Super Maramu

Udo J. Reich <udo@...>
 

Hi Thomas,

We just took out our Perkins Prima T80 engine and re-powered our Super
Maramu to the 100 HP Yanmar.

If you are interested I have the old engine and all kinds of other parts for
that. I was planning to advertise that for sale anyway.

We are in Seattle WA. Let me know if you are interested.



Udo J. Reich

ambiente european tile design

Direct 206. 388 1025

Fax 206. 388 1043



_____

From: smneurolept [mailto:smneurolept@...]
Sent: Friday, July 21, 2006 9:37 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Repowering Super Maramu



Hello,
I have a 1992 Super Maramu in Ft. Lauderdale and need to replace
the manifold and oil cooler. It appears so far that the only source
of parts for the engine, Perkins Prima 80T, are from UK. The parts
are close to the price of a new engine. I was wondering if anyone has
repowered here in Ft. Lauderdale, what engine they used, and a
reputable yard to do the work. If anyone knows of a rebuilt or surplus
engine locally that would be even better. Thanks for any assistance.
Thomas


FRUNO NAVNET DATA TRANSFER

pjppappas <pjppappas@...>
 

My 2002 SM 2000 #369 "CALLISTO" has enstalled the Furuno/Navionics
Navnet chart plotter / radar. I am trying to transfere waypoints and
routes form the host plotter that sits at the nav station to the slave
unit that is mounted at the helm. Following the manual's instructions
I recieve the message "failed to recieve data". One of the first steps
in this process is to select the host name. The slave plotter defaults
to "plot" as the host name. I am wondering if this name needs to be
changed and if so how do I determine the host name. Any help would be
greatly apprecieated as I do not wish to enter waypoints and routes
twice. As an alternative should I save the waypoints and route
information to a memory disk and then down load from the memory disk
to the slave unit. I am in Ensenada Mexico and there is no local
support or I would seek the adviced of an expert. Thank you Peter
Pappas


Repowering Super Maramu

smneurolept <smneurolept@...>
 

Hello,
I have a 1992 Super Maramu in Ft. Lauderdale and need to replace
the manifold and oil cooler. It appears so far that the only source
of parts for the engine, Perkins Prima 80T, are from UK. The parts
are close to the price of a new engine. I was wondering if anyone has
repowered here in Ft. Lauderdale, what engine they used, and a
reputable yard to do the work. If anyone knows of a rebuilt or surplus
engine locally that would be even better. Thanks for any assistance.
Thomas


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Width of keel shoe Santorin

Willem J. Kroes <willem.j.kroes@...>
 

Hi Georges,

Thanks for or quick response. Yesterday I have got from Mr Olivier Beaute from the Amel Yard in La Rochelle the exact dimension of the width of the Santorin keel shoe: 86 cm.
That means for me that the Corfu Yacht Yard cannot haul out a Santorin and I have to go to one of the Preveza boat yards. The alternative on Corfu in the Gouvia Marina is terrible expensive.

Thanks again and me be we see each other in Greece.

Best regards,

Willem J. Kroes

a/b Amel Santorin "Kavanga"
in Benitses on Corfu

----- Original Message -----
From: georges pellegrini
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Thursday, July 20, 2006 4:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Width of keel shoe Santorin


My santorin is on land in Greece (Leros), but I am presently in the US.
By memory it is very close to 1meter (3' 3").
Regards
Georges Pellegrini 96 Santorin #132

On Jul 20, 2006, at 3:07 AM, Willem J. Kroes wrote:

> Hello fellow Santorin owners,
>
> My boat is in the water in Greece and I am engaged in een e-mail
> discussion with a boat Yard here in Corfu. They asked me the exact
> width of the wingkeel at the bottom (from one wingtip to the other).
> This is because hauling out is done with a trailer on rails.
>
> Are there any Santorin owners with their boat on land to take this
> measurement for me?
>
> Best Regards,
>
> Willem J. Kroes
>
> 1992 Amel Santorin "Kavanga"
>
>
>
>


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Width of keel shoe Santorin

georges pellegrini <dji314@...>
 

My santorin is on land in Greece (Leros), but I am presently in the US.
By memory it is very close to 1meter (3' 3").
Regards
Georges Pellegrini 96 Santorin #132

On Jul 20, 2006, at 3:07 AM, Willem J. Kroes wrote:

Hello fellow Santorin owners,

My boat is in the water in Greece and I am engaged in een e-mail
discussion with a boat Yard here in Corfu. They asked me the exact
width of the wingkeel at the bottom (from one wingtip to the other).
This is because hauling out is done with a trailer on rails.

Are there any Santorin owners with their boat on land to take this
measurement for me?

Best Regards,

Willem J. Kroes

1992 Amel Santorin "Kavanga"




Propane conversion

itacknjibe
 

has anyone posted or at least taken pictures of their propane
conversion? I am in the process of doing it, and would be interested
in seeing what another SM conversion looks like, especially the
replacement for the wooden holding board for the tanks.
thanks,

Bill
SM2K Sogno di Mare


Width of keel shoe Santorin

Willem J. Kroes <willem.j.kroes@...>
 

Hello fellow Santorin owners,

My boat is in the water in Greece and I am engaged in een e-mail
discussion with a boat Yard here in Corfu. They asked me the exact
width of the wingkeel at the bottom (from one wingtip to the other).
This is because hauling out is done with a trailer on rails.

Are there any Santorin owners with their boat on land to take this
measurement for me?

Best Regards,

Willem J. Kroes

1992 Amel Santorin "Kavanga"


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM 2000 #240 holding tank copper pipe/tube blockage

Steve Leeds
 

Hi Gary,
I use PB Blaster (Blaster) on boats that are on the hard. I stuff a rag into the thru hull fitting from the outside to protect the bottom paint and spray the Blaster into the top of the ball valve with the valve closed and allow to soak overnight. In the morning I work the valve a little but not enough to allow the Blaster to drain out until I am satisfied with the results. Usually one day will free the valve. I have also found the Blaster eats the crust from the tubing of the valve (with a little help from a screwdriver). If the valve is frozen open, the same trick works, although it requires more Blaster.

In a rare emergency I have sprayed a bit of Blaster into a frozen thru hull while in the water, the Blaster floating on the top of the water inside the fitting. It is obviously not an environmentally sound practice, but we are talking about very small quantities.

Steve Leeds
Sharki #121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service
Fort Lauderdale, Fl
http://bellsouthpwp2.net/l/e/leedss/


amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
Hi Steve:

Regarding your use of the PB Blaster product, I looked on the PB Blaster web site to see what
was in their PB Blaster Penetrating Fluid. While I have used vinegar to good effect I am always
open to a new product. However, my only concern is the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet)
specification "Do not mix with water". Do you use this while the boat is on the hard? How
exactly did you apply it to your thru hull valve?

Thanks,

Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

Mike,
The buildup is caused by urine and not seawater. Very complete flushing and occasional
use of vinegar will reduce buildup. The penetrating fluid "PB Blaster" will help free stiff thru
hull fittings.

Steve Leeds
Sharki #121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service





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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


pig stick

eric freedman
 

I have a burgee that must be flown from the top of the main mast.

What have any members done to rig this?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM 2000 #240 holding tank copper pipe/tube blockage

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Steve:

Regarding your use of the PB Blaster product, I looked on the PB Blaster web site to see what
was in their PB Blaster Penetrating Fluid. While I have used vinegar to good effect I am always
open to a new product. However, my only concern is the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet)
specification "Do not mix with water". Do you use this while the boat is on the hard? How
exactly did you apply it to your thru hull valve?

Thanks,

Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

Mike,
The buildup is caused by urine and not seawater. Very complete flushing and occasional
use of vinegar will reduce buildup. The penetrating fluid "PB Blaster" will help free stiff thru
hull fittings.

Steve Leeds
Sharki #121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM 2000 #240 holding tank copper pipe/tube blockage

Steve Leeds
 

Mike,
The buildup is caused by urine and not seawater. Very complete flushing and occasional use of vinegar will reduce buildup. The penetrating fluid "PB Blaster" will help free stiff thru hull fittings.

Steve Leeds
Sharki #121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service
http://bellsouthpwp2.net/l/e/leedss/

Mike Ondra <mondra@...> wrote:
As mentioned before, we experienced significant buildup of deposits
on the copper tube walls where the head pump hose feeds the holding
tank. Thickness on the main head was over 1/4" and the secondary
1/8". Removal took close to a hammer and chisel as the material was
quite hard and well bonded to the copper. Screw drivers of various
lengths and finally a stiff hacksaw blade physically removed most of
the deposits after great effort, bruised hands and ultimately aching
fingers, hands, and forearms. Next time it will be a 1 1/2" boring
tool!

Samples of the material were tested in jars of Drano, vinegar and
biological treatment for septic tanks. Only the vinegar seemed to
have an affect, softening the material to the point where it fell
apart when prodded with a screwdriver. The other samples remained
rock hard. So we proceeded with 10 hour straight vinegar treatement
from the head to the top of the inlet tube followed by flushing with
fresh water. Will inspect the results upon the next opportunity.

Several questions remain:

Cause - salt buildup from sea water flush? Do salts attach to
copper? Doesn't make sense as ships used to be clad with copper
sheeting, and copper is used extensively in bottom paints.

Can one assume that the exit tube to the through-hull is likewise
blocked? Future investigation. Perhaps this is why the through hull
valves are becoming increasingly stiff to operate.

Would weekly treatments with vinegar, as Gary suggests, be the
optimum solution to keep the pump, tubes and valve clean?

Do others have this problem? Especially is the problem specific to
applications with sea water flush AND copper tubing? Why is this
tube not plastic?

The through-hull and outlet copper pipe are bonded to the vessel
grounding system, but the inlet pipe that is giving us the problem
is not. Would doing so make a difference? Will know better after
examining the outlet pipe.

As we all know, optimally functioning heads are a blessing. Please
share your successes, or failures, on this issue.

Mike Ondra
Aletes SM#240






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head copper pipe

eric freedman
 

After about a year i noticed a smell when i passed the forward head.
i eventually tracked it down to the plastic pipe that connects to the
copper pipe. The hose was filled with those crystals and caused the
hose to smell.I changed the hose. Leaving urine in the toilet
overnight as an experiment i found that it crystalized in the bowl.
the problem with the forward head was that people on watch did not
want to run the toilet macerator very long as it might wake the
sleping crew. thus urine and sea water stayed in the pipe and
crystalizes. The rule now is to flush the toilet EVERY TIME holding in
the button for a slow coubt of 10. that allows a full flush, and the
pipe only has sea water in it. 3 years laterb and no smell. I also
fill and flush the toilet with fresh water when i leave the boat for
even a day.
Fair winds,
eric
sm 376 kimberlite


Re: SM 2000 #240 holding tank copper pipe/tube blockage

abulerhum <dji314@...>
 

I had the same exact problem at the same exact location on my santorin. The tank is
original from amel. the only difference is that the copper tube on my boat is connected to
the ground, but it did not change anything.
I will try the vinegar periodically in the future. It cannot hurt.
Georges Pellegrini. Santorin #132

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Mike Ondra" <mondra@...> wrote:

As mentioned before, we experienced significant buildup of deposits
on the copper tube walls where the head pump hose feeds the holding
tank. Thickness on the main head was over 1/4" and the secondary
1/8". Removal took close to a hammer and chisel as the material was
quite hard and well bonded to the copper. Screw drivers of various
lengths and finally a stiff hacksaw blade physically removed most of
the deposits after great effort, bruised hands and ultimately aching
fingers, hands, and forearms. Next time it will be a 1 1/2" boring
tool!

Samples of the material were tested in jars of Drano, vinegar and
biological treatment for septic tanks. Only the vinegar seemed to
have an affect, softening the material to the point where it fell
apart when prodded with a screwdriver. The other samples remained
rock hard. So we proceeded with 10 hour straight vinegar treatement
from the head to the top of the inlet tube followed by flushing with
fresh water. Will inspect the results upon the next opportunity.

Several questions remain:

Cause - salt buildup from sea water flush? Do salts attach to
copper? Doesn't make sense as ships used to be clad with copper
sheeting, and copper is used extensively in bottom paints.

Can one assume that the exit tube to the through-hull is likewise
blocked? Future investigation. Perhaps this is why the through hull
valves are becoming increasingly stiff to operate.

Would weekly treatments with vinegar, as Gary suggests, be the
optimum solution to keep the pump, tubes and valve clean?

Do others have this problem? Especially is the problem specific to
applications with sea water flush AND copper tubing? Why is this
tube not plastic?

The through-hull and outlet copper pipe are bonded to the vessel
grounding system, but the inlet pipe that is giving us the problem
is not. Would doing so make a difference? Will know better after
examining the outlet pipe.

As we all know, optimally functioning heads are a blessing. Please
share your successes, or failures, on this issue.

Mike Ondra
Aletes SM#240


SM 2000 #240 holding tank copper pipe/tube blockage

Mike Ondra <mondra@...>
 

As mentioned before, we experienced significant buildup of deposits
on the copper tube walls where the head pump hose feeds the holding
tank. Thickness on the main head was over 1/4" and the secondary
1/8". Removal took close to a hammer and chisel as the material was
quite hard and well bonded to the copper. Screw drivers of various
lengths and finally a stiff hacksaw blade physically removed most of
the deposits after great effort, bruised hands and ultimately aching
fingers, hands, and forearms. Next time it will be a 1 1/2" boring
tool!

Samples of the material were tested in jars of Drano, vinegar and
biological treatment for septic tanks. Only the vinegar seemed to
have an affect, softening the material to the point where it fell
apart when prodded with a screwdriver. The other samples remained
rock hard. So we proceeded with 10 hour straight vinegar treatement
from the head to the top of the inlet tube followed by flushing with
fresh water. Will inspect the results upon the next opportunity.

Several questions remain:

Cause - salt buildup from sea water flush? Do salts attach to
copper? Doesn't make sense as ships used to be clad with copper
sheeting, and copper is used extensively in bottom paints.

Can one assume that the exit tube to the through-hull is likewise
blocked? Future investigation. Perhaps this is why the through hull
valves are becoming increasingly stiff to operate.

Would weekly treatments with vinegar, as Gary suggests, be the
optimum solution to keep the pump, tubes and valve clean?

Do others have this problem? Especially is the problem specific to
applications with sea water flush AND copper tubing? Why is this
tube not plastic?

The through-hull and outlet copper pipe are bonded to the vessel
grounding system, but the inlet pipe that is giving us the problem
is not. Would doing so make a difference? Will know better after
examining the outlet pipe.

As we all know, optimally functioning heads are a blessing. Please
share your successes, or failures, on this issue.

Mike Ondra
Aletes SM#240


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] holding tank copper tube SM

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Mike, To eliminate future problems with buildup of the hard crystal in the line,hang the shower nozzel on the curtain hanger next to the toilet. When you flush(,the right toggle only on the black switch), spray the fresh water in the toilet and you r problem will be over. Only use the red button ( salt water in and flush ) If you are low on water. John
Moondog sm248


From: "Mike Ondra" <mondra@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] holding tank copper tube SM
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2006 02:45:18 -0000

After losing our ability to pump out the toilet we discovered the
copper intake tube at the bottom of the holding tank was 3/4 blocked
by a hard crystaline substance deposited on the wall of the pipe.
This could be chipped away with a straight screw driver to the extent
that the screw driver could be leveraged up the pipe (maybe half way)
which seems to extend to near the top of the tank.

This boat has been in service 6 years, mostly in the Caribbean, with
sea water flush. Any ideas of what causes the buildup of such deposits
(combination of copper, salts, and ammonia from urine?)or experience
relative to its removal?

Mike
S/Y Aletes SM#240


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1983 Mango FOR SALE in San Diego

svapanti <mates@...>
 

We are only the third owners of this Mango. It is in excellent
condition.
Give us a call for the full scoop. Henry 858 967-6104


Santorin or Sharki for sale

LYNDA FIELDEN <lynda.fielden1@...>
 

I have just sold my supermaramu 2000 and am hoping to replace her with either a well looked after Sharki or Santorin.
If anyone has any details of any for sale I would appreciate information.
Many thanks
Lynda


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Parts List & Parts Description for Watermaker Logic Control Board

eric freedman
 

Gary,

I installed the new membranes and end caps.

Everything works well. I get an 87-95 micro siemens when the unit is
running. I plumbed it as you did. I think I am going to use a chase nipple
and hook the "t" with the omega sensor in it directly to the Amel sensors
"t" and then loop the output up higher so that there will always be water in
the sensor "t".

Thanks for all your help.

I will post pix of my install if it works.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 10:21 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Parts List & Parts Description for Watermaker
Logic Control Board



Hi All:

I have just uploaded a picture with labels for all parts on the Dessalator
Logic
Control Board. I have also uploaded an Excel Spread Sheet with Part Names,
Part Numbers, Manufacturer, and Part Purpose Descrition for each part
identified on the Parts Picture.

These are accurate for my vintage water maker (Amel Super Maramu 2000
Hull # 335, delivered July 2001). Your system may vary.

I hope this may be of some use to you.

Gary Silver

s/v Liahona