Date   

Width of keel shoe Santorin

Willem J. Kroes <willem.j.kroes@...>
 

Hello fellow Santorin owners,

My boat is in the water in Greece and I am engaged in een e-mail
discussion with a boat Yard here in Corfu. They asked me the exact
width of the wingkeel at the bottom (from one wingtip to the other).
This is because hauling out is done with a trailer on rails.

Are there any Santorin owners with their boat on land to take this
measurement for me?

Best Regards,

Willem J. Kroes

1992 Amel Santorin "Kavanga"


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM 2000 #240 holding tank copper pipe/tube blockage

Steve Leeds
 

Hi Gary,
I use PB Blaster (Blaster) on boats that are on the hard. I stuff a rag into the thru hull fitting from the outside to protect the bottom paint and spray the Blaster into the top of the ball valve with the valve closed and allow to soak overnight. In the morning I work the valve a little but not enough to allow the Blaster to drain out until I am satisfied with the results. Usually one day will free the valve. I have also found the Blaster eats the crust from the tubing of the valve (with a little help from a screwdriver). If the valve is frozen open, the same trick works, although it requires more Blaster.

In a rare emergency I have sprayed a bit of Blaster into a frozen thru hull while in the water, the Blaster floating on the top of the water inside the fitting. It is obviously not an environmentally sound practice, but we are talking about very small quantities.

Steve Leeds
Sharki #121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service
Fort Lauderdale, Fl
http://bellsouthpwp2.net/l/e/leedss/


amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
Hi Steve:

Regarding your use of the PB Blaster product, I looked on the PB Blaster web site to see what
was in their PB Blaster Penetrating Fluid. While I have used vinegar to good effect I am always
open to a new product. However, my only concern is the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet)
specification "Do not mix with water". Do you use this while the boat is on the hard? How
exactly did you apply it to your thru hull valve?

Thanks,

Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

Mike,
The buildup is caused by urine and not seawater. Very complete flushing and occasional
use of vinegar will reduce buildup. The penetrating fluid "PB Blaster" will help free stiff thru
hull fittings.

Steve Leeds
Sharki #121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service





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pig stick

eric freedman
 

I have a burgee that must be flown from the top of the main mast.

What have any members done to rig this?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM 2000 #240 holding tank copper pipe/tube blockage

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Steve:

Regarding your use of the PB Blaster product, I looked on the PB Blaster web site to see what
was in their PB Blaster Penetrating Fluid. While I have used vinegar to good effect I am always
open to a new product. However, my only concern is the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet)
specification "Do not mix with water". Do you use this while the boat is on the hard? How
exactly did you apply it to your thru hull valve?

Thanks,

Gary Silver s/v Liahona Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

Mike,
The buildup is caused by urine and not seawater. Very complete flushing and occasional
use of vinegar will reduce buildup. The penetrating fluid "PB Blaster" will help free stiff thru
hull fittings.

Steve Leeds
Sharki #121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM 2000 #240 holding tank copper pipe/tube blockage

Steve Leeds
 

Mike,
The buildup is caused by urine and not seawater. Very complete flushing and occasional use of vinegar will reduce buildup. The penetrating fluid "PB Blaster" will help free stiff thru hull fittings.

Steve Leeds
Sharki #121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service
http://bellsouthpwp2.net/l/e/leedss/

Mike Ondra <mondra@...> wrote:
As mentioned before, we experienced significant buildup of deposits
on the copper tube walls where the head pump hose feeds the holding
tank. Thickness on the main head was over 1/4" and the secondary
1/8". Removal took close to a hammer and chisel as the material was
quite hard and well bonded to the copper. Screw drivers of various
lengths and finally a stiff hacksaw blade physically removed most of
the deposits after great effort, bruised hands and ultimately aching
fingers, hands, and forearms. Next time it will be a 1 1/2" boring
tool!

Samples of the material were tested in jars of Drano, vinegar and
biological treatment for septic tanks. Only the vinegar seemed to
have an affect, softening the material to the point where it fell
apart when prodded with a screwdriver. The other samples remained
rock hard. So we proceeded with 10 hour straight vinegar treatement
from the head to the top of the inlet tube followed by flushing with
fresh water. Will inspect the results upon the next opportunity.

Several questions remain:

Cause - salt buildup from sea water flush? Do salts attach to
copper? Doesn't make sense as ships used to be clad with copper
sheeting, and copper is used extensively in bottom paints.

Can one assume that the exit tube to the through-hull is likewise
blocked? Future investigation. Perhaps this is why the through hull
valves are becoming increasingly stiff to operate.

Would weekly treatments with vinegar, as Gary suggests, be the
optimum solution to keep the pump, tubes and valve clean?

Do others have this problem? Especially is the problem specific to
applications with sea water flush AND copper tubing? Why is this
tube not plastic?

The through-hull and outlet copper pipe are bonded to the vessel
grounding system, but the inlet pipe that is giving us the problem
is not. Would doing so make a difference? Will know better after
examining the outlet pipe.

As we all know, optimally functioning heads are a blessing. Please
share your successes, or failures, on this issue.

Mike Ondra
Aletes SM#240






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head copper pipe

eric freedman
 

After about a year i noticed a smell when i passed the forward head.
i eventually tracked it down to the plastic pipe that connects to the
copper pipe. The hose was filled with those crystals and caused the
hose to smell.I changed the hose. Leaving urine in the toilet
overnight as an experiment i found that it crystalized in the bowl.
the problem with the forward head was that people on watch did not
want to run the toilet macerator very long as it might wake the
sleping crew. thus urine and sea water stayed in the pipe and
crystalizes. The rule now is to flush the toilet EVERY TIME holding in
the button for a slow coubt of 10. that allows a full flush, and the
pipe only has sea water in it. 3 years laterb and no smell. I also
fill and flush the toilet with fresh water when i leave the boat for
even a day.
Fair winds,
eric
sm 376 kimberlite


Re: SM 2000 #240 holding tank copper pipe/tube blockage

abulerhum <dji314@...>
 

I had the same exact problem at the same exact location on my santorin. The tank is
original from amel. the only difference is that the copper tube on my boat is connected to
the ground, but it did not change anything.
I will try the vinegar periodically in the future. It cannot hurt.
Georges Pellegrini. Santorin #132

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Mike Ondra" <mondra@...> wrote:

As mentioned before, we experienced significant buildup of deposits
on the copper tube walls where the head pump hose feeds the holding
tank. Thickness on the main head was over 1/4" and the secondary
1/8". Removal took close to a hammer and chisel as the material was
quite hard and well bonded to the copper. Screw drivers of various
lengths and finally a stiff hacksaw blade physically removed most of
the deposits after great effort, bruised hands and ultimately aching
fingers, hands, and forearms. Next time it will be a 1 1/2" boring
tool!

Samples of the material were tested in jars of Drano, vinegar and
biological treatment for septic tanks. Only the vinegar seemed to
have an affect, softening the material to the point where it fell
apart when prodded with a screwdriver. The other samples remained
rock hard. So we proceeded with 10 hour straight vinegar treatement
from the head to the top of the inlet tube followed by flushing with
fresh water. Will inspect the results upon the next opportunity.

Several questions remain:

Cause - salt buildup from sea water flush? Do salts attach to
copper? Doesn't make sense as ships used to be clad with copper
sheeting, and copper is used extensively in bottom paints.

Can one assume that the exit tube to the through-hull is likewise
blocked? Future investigation. Perhaps this is why the through hull
valves are becoming increasingly stiff to operate.

Would weekly treatments with vinegar, as Gary suggests, be the
optimum solution to keep the pump, tubes and valve clean?

Do others have this problem? Especially is the problem specific to
applications with sea water flush AND copper tubing? Why is this
tube not plastic?

The through-hull and outlet copper pipe are bonded to the vessel
grounding system, but the inlet pipe that is giving us the problem
is not. Would doing so make a difference? Will know better after
examining the outlet pipe.

As we all know, optimally functioning heads are a blessing. Please
share your successes, or failures, on this issue.

Mike Ondra
Aletes SM#240


SM 2000 #240 holding tank copper pipe/tube blockage

Mike Ondra <mondra@...>
 

As mentioned before, we experienced significant buildup of deposits
on the copper tube walls where the head pump hose feeds the holding
tank. Thickness on the main head was over 1/4" and the secondary
1/8". Removal took close to a hammer and chisel as the material was
quite hard and well bonded to the copper. Screw drivers of various
lengths and finally a stiff hacksaw blade physically removed most of
the deposits after great effort, bruised hands and ultimately aching
fingers, hands, and forearms. Next time it will be a 1 1/2" boring
tool!

Samples of the material were tested in jars of Drano, vinegar and
biological treatment for septic tanks. Only the vinegar seemed to
have an affect, softening the material to the point where it fell
apart when prodded with a screwdriver. The other samples remained
rock hard. So we proceeded with 10 hour straight vinegar treatement
from the head to the top of the inlet tube followed by flushing with
fresh water. Will inspect the results upon the next opportunity.

Several questions remain:

Cause - salt buildup from sea water flush? Do salts attach to
copper? Doesn't make sense as ships used to be clad with copper
sheeting, and copper is used extensively in bottom paints.

Can one assume that the exit tube to the through-hull is likewise
blocked? Future investigation. Perhaps this is why the through hull
valves are becoming increasingly stiff to operate.

Would weekly treatments with vinegar, as Gary suggests, be the
optimum solution to keep the pump, tubes and valve clean?

Do others have this problem? Especially is the problem specific to
applications with sea water flush AND copper tubing? Why is this
tube not plastic?

The through-hull and outlet copper pipe are bonded to the vessel
grounding system, but the inlet pipe that is giving us the problem
is not. Would doing so make a difference? Will know better after
examining the outlet pipe.

As we all know, optimally functioning heads are a blessing. Please
share your successes, or failures, on this issue.

Mike Ondra
Aletes SM#240


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] holding tank copper tube SM

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Mike, To eliminate future problems with buildup of the hard crystal in the line,hang the shower nozzel on the curtain hanger next to the toilet. When you flush(,the right toggle only on the black switch), spray the fresh water in the toilet and you r problem will be over. Only use the red button ( salt water in and flush ) If you are low on water. John
Moondog sm248


From: "Mike Ondra" <mondra@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] holding tank copper tube SM
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2006 02:45:18 -0000

After losing our ability to pump out the toilet we discovered the
copper intake tube at the bottom of the holding tank was 3/4 blocked
by a hard crystaline substance deposited on the wall of the pipe.
This could be chipped away with a straight screw driver to the extent
that the screw driver could be leveraged up the pipe (maybe half way)
which seems to extend to near the top of the tank.

This boat has been in service 6 years, mostly in the Caribbean, with
sea water flush. Any ideas of what causes the buildup of such deposits
(combination of copper, salts, and ammonia from urine?)or experience
relative to its removal?

Mike
S/Y Aletes SM#240


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1983 Mango FOR SALE in San Diego

svapanti <mates@...>
 

We are only the third owners of this Mango. It is in excellent
condition.
Give us a call for the full scoop. Henry 858 967-6104


Santorin or Sharki for sale

LYNDA FIELDEN <lynda.fielden1@...>
 

I have just sold my supermaramu 2000 and am hoping to replace her with either a well looked after Sharki or Santorin.
If anyone has any details of any for sale I would appreciate information.
Many thanks
Lynda


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Parts List & Parts Description for Watermaker Logic Control Board

eric freedman
 

Gary,

I installed the new membranes and end caps.

Everything works well. I get an 87-95 micro siemens when the unit is
running. I plumbed it as you did. I think I am going to use a chase nipple
and hook the "t" with the omega sensor in it directly to the Amel sensors
"t" and then loop the output up higher so that there will always be water in
the sensor "t".

Thanks for all your help.

I will post pix of my install if it works.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 10:21 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Parts List & Parts Description for Watermaker
Logic Control Board



Hi All:

I have just uploaded a picture with labels for all parts on the Dessalator
Logic
Control Board. I have also uploaded an Excel Spread Sheet with Part Names,
Part Numbers, Manufacturer, and Part Purpose Descrition for each part
identified on the Parts Picture.

These are accurate for my vintage water maker (Amel Super Maramu 2000
Hull # 335, delivered July 2001). Your system may vary.

I hope this may be of some use to you.

Gary Silver

s/v Liahona


AWANING

pjppappas <pjppappas@...>
 

Thanks to those whom responded to my request for information. Peter
Pappas 'CALLISTO' #369


Re: AWNING

Judy Rouse
 

We had requested that Shade Tree duplicate the order that they had
produced for Ed Steele, SM2 #331. The 3 awnings that we received
are each slightly off in measurements and do not fit our boat
correctly. The bow section is not long enough so it does not cover
the bow area completely; the mid and aft sections are slightly too
long and there is no way to adjust them so that they will not rub on
the stays and shrouds. We are concerned that the fore and aft edges
of each awning section will rub through in a short time.

We also saw Shade Tree awnings on another Super Maramu 2000 when we
were in St. Thomas in May, named Bel Ami. Those awnings fit the
boat perfectly, with slots cut to fit around the stays and shrouds.
Unfortunately, Shade Tree has no record of having produced those
awnings.

We are pleased with the way the Shade Tree awnings work, just not
happy with the fit. Point is, measure your boat before you place an
order; don't make the mistake we did and assume that they can
duplicate a previous order and that those awnings will fit your
particular boat.

Also, we have found that these awnings can stay in place during 25
kt winds just find when at anchor when you will swing with the wind;
but we found that we had to remove them when the winds reached 20
kts while we were docked in a marina because they were acting like
sails as the wind came over our forward quarter.

Judy Rouse
S/V Security
SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "edmund_steele"
<edmundsteele@...> wrote:

Peter,
We bought awnings from Shadetree (see www.intheshd.com) for our
Super
Maramu #331. We bought three sections to cover the foredeck, main
cabin
and mizzen deck although we do not use the foredeck shade very
often.
The shades make a huge difference to the comfort level aboard and
have
survived several good blows without damage. They only take a few
minutes to deploy and strike and we have been pleased with the
product.
BTW we went with the silver color (white underside).
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug #331


Re: AWNING

edmund_steele
 

Peter,
We bought awnings from Shadetree (see www.intheshd.com) for our Super
Maramu #331. We bought three sections to cover the foredeck, main cabin
and mizzen deck although we do not use the foredeck shade very often.
The shades make a huge difference to the comfort level aboard and have
survived several good blows without damage. They only take a few
minutes to deploy and strike and we have been pleased with the product.
BTW we went with the silver color (white underside).
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug #331


Re: AWNING

edmund_steele
 

Peter,
We bought awnings from Shadetree (see www.intheshd.com) for our Super
Maramu #331. We bought three sections to cover the foredeck, main cabin
and mizzen deck, although we do not use the foredeck shade very often.
The shades make a huge difference to the comfort level aboard and have
survived several good blows without damage. They only take a few
minutes to deploy and strike and we have been pleased with the product.
BTW we went with the silver color (white underside).
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug #331


AWNING

pjppappas <pjppappas@...>
 

I want to have an awning made for my sm 2000. any suggestions for
material, color, designe and support would be greatly apprecieated. I
am considering a full deck awning. Thank you Peter Pappas 'CALLISTO'
#369.


Parts List & Parts Description for Watermaker Logic Control Board

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi All:

I have just uploaded a picture with labels for all parts on the Dessalator Logic
Control Board. I have also uploaded an Excel Spread Sheet with Part Names,
Part Numbers, Manufacturer, and Part Purpose Descrition for each part
identified on the Parts Picture.

These are accurate for my vintage water maker (Amel Super Maramu 2000
Hull # 335, delivered July 2001). Your system may vary.

I hope this may be of some use to you.

Gary Silver

s/v Liahona


New file uploaded to amelyachtowners

amelyachtowners@...
 

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /Dessalator Technical Info/LogicBoardPartNumbers.xls
Uploaded by : amelliahona
Description : Dessalator 160 lph Water Maker Logic Board Parts List/Description

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/files/Dessalator%20Technical%20Info/LogicBoardPartNumbers.xls

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

amelliahona


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Mango Forepeak Metal bar

Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
 

Nice to have a post about the Mango, especially number 1. If it's the
same as ours, no. 28, the centre piece of wood is obviously a step,
and the stainless tubing either side seems to tidy that up visually
with some hanging bars which are also handing for tying back the
chain locker access hatch.

Regards, Roger, Zorba

On 09/07/2006, at 12:06 PM, anniemno1 wrote:

We have recently acquired Mango hull no 1 and are in the process of a
rebuild.

Could anyone advise as to the function of the horizontal bar on the
interior side of the forepeak bulkhead?

Thanks,

John and Anne
Annie M