Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Mango Forepeak Metal bar

Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
 

Nice to have a post about the Mango, especially number 1. If it's the
same as ours, no. 28, the centre piece of wood is obviously a step,
and the stainless tubing either side seems to tidy that up visually
with some hanging bars which are also handing for tying back the
chain locker access hatch.

Regards, Roger, Zorba

On 09/07/2006, at 12:06 PM, anniemno1 wrote:

We have recently acquired Mango hull no 1 and are in the process of a
rebuild.

Could anyone advise as to the function of the horizontal bar on the
interior side of the forepeak bulkhead?

Thanks,

John and Anne
Annie M



Amel Mango Forepeak Metal bar

anniemno1 <no_reply@...>
 

We have recently acquired Mango hull no 1 and are in the process of a
rebuild.

Could anyone advise as to the function of the horizontal bar on the
interior side of the forepeak bulkhead?

Thanks,

John and Anne
Annie M


Watermaker

Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
 

Gary,

With reference to my e-mail of June 30th, I have changed the O-rings on the
membrane nipples. Output was a bit less, so I guess I may have had some
leakage there, but the output was still polluted. Turning the pressure down
to about half output did cause my inline TDS to start reading sensibly, so I
guess I still have a perforated membrane in the system that leaks under
normal operating pressure. New membranes are now flying FedEx from Air,Water
Ice Inc. They gave super quick service.

I have had no reply yet from Amel to my letter regarding the salinity probe
that does not work.

Regards

Ian SM414 'Crusader'


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Inverters and TV sets

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Hi Joel
You are absolutely right about the bread machine. I just got one that uses only 500W so my small 12V inverter can handle it.

You are also right about using such a big inverter to run a TV, stereo, etc. We mostly use our Heart inverter a few minutes at a time to run the microwave, drill, vacuum or other high current appliances.

By the way I found the perfect replacement TV for the older Super M's. I bought the Magnavox model 15MF400T/37. It can also be used as a computer screen so it has an inverter that plugs into 110V but the TV actually runs on 12 V. I cut the inverter off and connected the TV direct to the 12V outlet in the cabinet to the right of the TV. And I have a beautiful 15 inch, lightweight, flat screen LCD TV and I can plug in a portable DVD player when I need it.

I'll call about ordering my new SM when I hit the lottery...

Regards,
John
Moon Dog




From: "Joel F. Potter" <jfpottercys@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Changing the subject
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 15:45:45 -0400

Hello John,

I hope you won't think I'm picking on you but the advice you
gave is not correct.

The Heart inverter charger is a nice piece of gear. It will
also pull, in our opinion, too much out of the 24 volt bank
when used to operate the microwave or other high current
items.

Additionally, be very careful when running 110 volt
appliances on stepped down 220 volt power. The power
remains 50 cycle, not 60 cycle. This won't matter with
drills and blenders but will quickly destroy televisions and
stereo equipment as well as most bread makers and espresso
machines as the "brain" of these devices take their timing
signature off 60 cycle, not 50 cycle. 50 cycle will destroy
sophisticated 110 volt components very quickly.

Be careful.

All the best,
Joel F. Potter
AMEL 54, Hull # 14 - HOLLIS




_________________________________________________________________
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement


Re: holding tank copper tube SM

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

7 July 2006

Mike: I am a little confused about where this blockage is. Is it in the
pipe that comes out the bottom of the holding tank to the through hull?
Is it in the hose that enters the top of the holding tank that comes from
the toilet? Is it in the stem pipe that runs from the deck pump out
fitting to the bottom of the holding tank? I couldn't make out from
you description which pipe was involved. Perhaps your holding tank
is different that my hull # 335 holding tank.

At any rate, I use white vinegar (weak acetic acid) to dissolve salt
deposits. I flush some vinegar through my toilets (letting it sit in the
bowl, valves etc for 5 to 10 minutes) about once a week. I do this
so that it can sit in an empty holding tank with the through hull
valve closed so that it can dissolve the salt on the valve. So far so
good. I was taught this trick by the Orange Coast College Offshore
Sailing program.

Sounds like your problem might take repetative treatments but i
will venture a guess that this will help.

Regards, Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Mike Ondra" <mondra@...> wrote:

After losing our ability to pump out the toilet we discovered the
copper intake tube at the bottom of the holding tank was 3/4 blocked
by a hard crystaline substance deposited on the wall of the pipe.
This could be chipped away with a straight screw driver to the extent
that the screw driver could be leveraged up the pipe (maybe half way)
which seems to extend to near the top of the tank.

This boat has been in service 6 years, mostly in the Caribbean, with
sea water flush. Any ideas of what causes the buildup of such deposits
(combination of copper, salts, and ammonia from urine?)or experience
relative to its removal?

Mike
S/Y Aletes SM#240


holding tank copper tube SM

Mike Ondra <mondra@...>
 

After losing our ability to pump out the toilet we discovered the
copper intake tube at the bottom of the holding tank was 3/4 blocked
by a hard crystaline substance deposited on the wall of the pipe.
This could be chipped away with a straight screw driver to the extent
that the screw driver could be leveraged up the pipe (maybe half way)
which seems to extend to near the top of the tank.

This boat has been in service 6 years, mostly in the Caribbean, with
sea water flush. Any ideas of what causes the buildup of such deposits
(combination of copper, salts, and ammonia from urine?)or experience
relative to its removal?

Mike
S/Y Aletes SM#240


New Subject: Mast tensioning nut

coatsken <goldendaze@...>
 

I have painted, rewired, re-bearinged, and rerigged my main mast.
This week I will try to get it back on. Does anyone know how may foot
pounds the nut on top the mast needs for proper tension on the furling
extrusion?
I am also rebuilding the worm drives and will have all the bearing
numbers and locations for other Maramu owners interested.
1985 Maramu #192 Golden Daze
Ken Coats and Judy Golden


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] More H20 discussion

Ag Av8ter
 

Hello Ian and Judy,

I am happy to hear that your D60 is working well. When I purchased
my SM#266, the D60 had about 300 hours on it. What kind of service
or maintanence it had recieved before I have no idea. As part of
the survey when we bought the boat we had a watermaker company in
Ft. Lauderdale come to the boat and test it. The tech was a great
guy and "knew his stuff. He ended up taking the unit out and bench
testing it at his shop. He said the membranes has been damaged by
clorine, and they were flowing on the bench at about 20-25 LPH. We
elected to change the membranes and with the new membranes installed
the unit flowed on the bench at 37 LPH. On the boat we get about 30
LPH. We of course changed the inflow filter and all valves are open
fully. Please understand the D60 on WORLD CITIZEN works fine, we
would like to have a greater rate of product water. I have nothing
against Desalator at all, in fact we are looking into replacing it
with the larger unit in Guadalupe in a week or two.

Thanks for your input, and I am glad you are getting the production
out of yours!!!

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
S/M266


--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:

Hi Tony, Are we the only ones with an effective D60? Our SM, 302,
is 6
years old and we didnt use the W-M for the first 4 years. Now we
have 1,300+
hours on it and it regularly delivers 45-60lph. The cold waters of
Chile
made surprisingly little difference to outflow.We have pickled it
twice in
the last three years once for 7 months, once for 5. So far we are
on course
for the 2,000 hours that these membranes apparently can deliver,
though it
does seem that each set of membranes has a behaviour of its own.
Apologies
to all those readers who find the W-M topic boring ,but speaking
as someone
who is not technical and who is far away from yottie support
services I have
to say that I find all the technical issues raised on the site to
be
absolutly invaluable.Ian and Judy Jenkins, Pen Azen, Uruguay.


1981 Maramu for sale

argelita2004 <argelita2004@...>
 


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] More H20 discussion

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Tony, Are we the only ones with an effective D60? Our SM, 302, is 6 years old and we didnt use the W-M for the first 4 years. Now we have 1,300+ hours on it and it regularly delivers 45-60lph. The cold waters of Chile made surprisingly little difference to outflow.We have pickled it twice in the last three years once for 7 months, once for 5. So far we are on course for the 2,000 hours that these membranes apparently can deliver, though it does seem that each set of membranes has a behaviour of its own. Apologies to all those readers who find the W-M topic boring ,but speaking as someone who is not technical and who is far away from yottie support services I have to say that I find all the technical issues raised on the site to be absolutly invaluable.Ian and Judy Jenkins, Pen Azen, Uruguay.


Re: How do I get off E-List?

Judy Rouse
 

Mike,

Go to your Yahoo! profile and unsubscribe from the list. Or you can
simply change to receive no email and that will allow you to remain
as a member in case you want to read any postings on the Yahoo!
group page in the future.

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Mike Mattinson"
<hallelujah_mk@...> wrote:

Hi,

Could you please help me get removed from the amelyachtowners e-
mail list.

Thank you,

Kim


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] More H20 discussion

Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
 

Hi Tony,

Your problem is familiar, but I am not certain that I have a good answer. I
had a D60 on my previous SM and suffered poor output too. I changed the
membranes and it was good for a very short time only. I never got more than
45 l/h after that. Water temperature and salinity both affect output, but as
you are in the Caribbean, that should not be a low output issue. I take it
that you have changed the primary filters as well? They may be clogged up.

My 160 l/h works much better. Even up in Greenland where the water was cold,
the output never went below 140 l/h. In the Med I see 155-165 l/h depending
on salinity.

If you are going to purchase a larger water maker, think carefully about
whether to buy a Dessalator or not. My view now is that there are better
makes out there. Being close to the USA, you have plenty of choice.

Best Wishes

Ian Shepherd SM 414 'Crusader'

-------Original Message-------

From: agav8ter
Date: 6/30/2006 3:22:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] More H20 discussion


Hello Fellow Sailors,

I am adding to the watermaker free for all. I have SM #266, and she has
the D60 watermaker. I replaced the membranes last January and have
about 220 hours on the system since then. My only complaint is that I
can only make 30 LPH. We live aboard and are on the hook, so we live
off the water we can make. At this time we have no way of collecting
rain water, but we plan to design and make a rain water collector.
Meanwhile, we are going to be in Guadalupe soon to have some other work
done. Question: For those of you that have the "bigger" watermaker,
what kind of out put are you experiancing? If I can expect to get over
100 LPH, I will consider purchasing the larger unit and installing it
while at Guadalupe. Anyone in the market for a D60 with "new"
membranes?

I have had no trouble with the D60, other than we go through water way
faster than we can make it!!

Good sailing to you all,
Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266


How do I get off E-List?

Mike Mattinson <hallelujah_mk@...>
 

Hi,

Could you please help me get removed from the amelyachtowners e-mail list.

Thank you,

Kim


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: serto end caps

eric freedman
 

Gary,

I was wondering about the end caps as they are grey. Mine are white.

The ones I ordered from Amel arrived today-2 days !!!. they were stopped by
homeland security and returned to Memphis as the invoice read membranes and
they assumed this was a biological item. So I have 3 -4 days to straighten
out homeland security before I get the end caps.



I purchased the fittings at home depot. On planning out the project, I
Think I will also plumb the sensor in parallel and below the output . I can
then be assured that the probe will be immersed.



I live on long island.





Thanks for all the help.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2006 11:28 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: serto end caps



Eric:

The Serto brand connectors are the gray plastic ones that Dessalator used
throughout their system. I could not find a source for them in the USA.

I forget the brand of the white connectors that I used. I purchased them
at Home Depot here in the USA. There are pipe thread to snap connector
adapters and all sorts of other adapters in that brand. If you are having
trouble finding a source let me know and I can purchase some for you
and mail them to you.

Where are you located now?

Gary

Gary,
i noticed in one of your photos you mentioned serto end caps.
where did you ger them?
thanks
eric


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] watermaker,TDS meter

Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
 

Hi Gary & John.

I have now found out why my inline TDS meter continuously gives an 'Error'
reading. It is not to do with the orientation of the probe at all. The
problem is that the water maker output is so polluted that meter is out of
range. It was a guest on board today that refused a glass of water that
aroused my suspicions. I guess I had got used to the taste, but she
convinced me that something was wrong. I thought it may have been a dirty 50
micron filter, but changing it did nothing to the taste. Another test with a
Hanna confirmed a seriously polluted output (860 with an 'E' in the top
right hand corner.

So yet another case of being fooled by the green light, which as we now know
means nothing.

I have disassembled the 160 l/h membranes which have 185 hours use. (For
Eric- if you have not yet removed your membranes, I can confirm that it is
best to remove the whole cradle first, then unscrew the rods. The only nasty
part of the job is reaching the self tapping screws that hold the blower
ducting together. You may need to do this to get to the two outboard roof
bolts, depending on your installation. My 110/220V transformer gets in the
way of the side screw).

Gary, I am concerned that the sea water side of the membranes is only
isolated from the centre output tube by a single 0-ring on the membrane
nipple. Do you really think this seal is sufficient to reliably withstand a
60 Bar or 870 PSI sideways pressure? ( have the nylon end caps). The caps
don't seem to be a very tight fit on the nipple seal, so this may be the
root of my problem rather than the membranes themselves.

I will get some new seals and jury rig the assembly for a trial. I use
silicon grease on seals. Do you think that the seal may do a better job with
sealant perhaps, at the expense of more difficulty in getting it apart
again? If so, can you recommend any particular type or brand of sealant for
this application?

I was interested to read about your flying exploits. Not so long ago Steve
Jones who was a UK aerobatic champ took me up in his Sukoi. After 19,500
hours of commercial flying, it was the most hair raising experience of my
life! I take my hat off to you for being able to stay ahead of the aircraft
whilst the world is a 270 degree per second roll rate blur and the G-meter
is swinging from +7 to -5! Currently I fly hang gliders, paragliders and
sailplanes.

Cheers

Ian Shepherd SM414 'Crusader'

-------Original Message-------

From: amelliahona
Date: 6/14/2006 2:38:47 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] watermaker,TDS meter

Ian:

Have you tried orienting the sensor horizontally or inverted? I found that
my
sensor didn't give consistent readings when I had it mounted vertically. I
think
that perhaps the probes weren't long enough and there was an air bubble
trapped when it was upright. See the photo of my installation in the photo
section and you will see that my sensor is now mounted horizontally and in
that orientation any air in the system is washed past the probes yet the
sensor
probes remain imersed in product water. Just a thought.

Regards, Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...> wrote:

Hi John,

Is your TDS meter made by HM Digital? Mine is, and no matter where I put
it
in the blue output line, all I get is an 'Err' message when the water
maker
is producing water. It does give a reading when the flow is stopped, i.e.
Just after shutdown, and it works fine in a cup of water. It seems not
able
to cope with a decent flow rate. I have tried just after the membrane
output
and just after the control panel with the same result. I have waited 5-10
minutes as per Gary's suggestion, but get the same result.

I would appreciate any advice. Like you, I have never used chemicals on my
membranes. Only the occasional back flush with self made water when not in
use for a while.

Cheers

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

-------Original Message-------

From: John and Anne on Bali Hai
Date: 06/08/06 09:17:08
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] watermaker,TDS meter

There seems to be no doubt that the dessalateur salinity detector is
non functioning.A cheap and easy solution is to fit a simple TDS meter
in the output line.Such a meter is sold by an American company
tdsmeter.com and also sold in the UK ro-man.com for £23.50.
It is very small and has two sensors. I did not use the "in" sensor
and put the "out" sensor in the blue output line which can be found
behind the wooden cover at the front ot the big cockpit locker. This
blue pipe is easily cut with a razor knife and the ends pushed in as
far as they will go into the sensor. The wires from the sensors are
connected to the meter with a plug which is quite hard to pull out.
Once removed the plug can be pushed through the small gap created by
removing the screws holding the panel in place in the galley. The
meter is held in place with velcro.
The actual meter is only 3x2x0.75 inches with a very small screen.It
is powered by two button cells and stays on for about 20-30 seconds
when the on button is pushed. It does not have an alarm. It is sold
either with fittings for a small or a larger tube which is needed for
my 160ltr ph watermaker.Make sure that the tubes are pushed fully in
and the do a freshwater flush of the membranes to make sure there are
no leaks before replacing the coverboard.
I used it yesterday for the first time and got an initial reading of
over 9,000 ppm which soon went down to about 360ppm which is better
than Maltese mains water.
Incidentally I have followed Olivier's advice and never sterilised or
pickled the membranes which are still delivering 160 ltr. ph. even
though the machine stands idle for about five months a year. We do
however always flush it with product water after use if it is going to
stand idle for more than a few days. We never take on shore water and
rely totally on this machine.
With the benefit of hind sight I should have put both sensors in the
product out line !

Best wishes to all, Anne and John, SM 319








More H20 discussion

Ag Av8ter
 

Hello Fellow Sailors,

I am adding to the watermaker free for all. I have SM #266, and she has
the D60 watermaker. I replaced the membranes last January and have
about 220 hours on the system since then. My only complaint is that I
can only make 30 LPH. We live aboard and are on the hook, so we live
off the water we can make. At this time we have no way of collecting
rain water, but we plan to design and make a rain water collector.
Meanwhile, we are going to be in Guadalupe soon to have some other work
done. Question: For those of you that have the "bigger" watermaker,
what kind of out put are you experiancing? If I can expect to get over
100 LPH, I will consider purchasing the larger unit and installing it
while at Guadalupe. Anyone in the market for a D60 with "new"
membranes?

I have had no trouble with the D60, other than we go through water way
faster than we can make it!!

Good sailing to you all,
Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266


Re: serto end caps

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Eric:


The Serto brand connectors are the gray plastic ones that Dessalator used
throughout their system. I could not find a source for them in the USA.

I forget the brand of the white connectors that I used. I purchased them
at Home Depot here in the USA. There are pipe thread to snap connector
adapters and all sorts of other adapters in that brand. If you are having
trouble finding a source let me know and I can purchase some for you
and mail them to you.

Where are you located now?

Gary

Gary,
i noticed in one of your photos you mentioned serto end caps.
where did you ger them?
thanks
eric


serto end caps

eric freedman
 

Gary,
i noticed in one of your photos you mentioned serto end caps.
where did you ger them?
thanks
eric


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: watermaker

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

29 June 2006
Hi Eric:

RE: Your Question:

"... why did you mount the omega quality sensor in a loop parallel
to the water flow and not in series with the output water?'

I only had "T" connectors at the time. Sorry to report that there was
no special engineering involved. It has worked well this way so I
haven't changed it. Someone reported problems with their sensor
in turbulant flow so I have choosen to leave well enough alone.

Let me know if you install yours in series and suffer any problems.

".... did you have any trouble connecting the blue 3/8 inch plastic
hose to the Amel fitting? did you heat it to fit over the fitting?"

No and No. The 3/8 fittings quick connect press on fittings
fit perfectly and sealed without problem to the blue tubing
where I cut it. The extra 3/8 inch tubing (the clear stuff in
the photo) that I purchased at Home Depot fit well. I have had no
leaks and the rating on the fittings was something like 100 psi.
There is really virtually no pressure on this line.

Glad to hear that the end caps came off with so little effort.
Did the O-rings that you ordered fit ok?

I wired a Sonalert to the relay output of the EC sensor and
quickly discovered I needed a mute switch for when the water
maker starts up and the TDS creep causes it to alarm for the
first minute or two. I put the LEDs in just to verify that there
was 24 volt power to the Sonalert, and for a visual indication
of the alarm condition if I forgot to throw the "mute" switch
to the arm position after system start up. If others would
like a schematic of my set up I will draw one up and put it
in the files section of the site.

I appreciated Joel's post and it is nice to have him confirm that
his experiences with Dessalator have been the same as mine.
I agree completely with his analysis. Amel has been, and
continues to be, the finest company I have ever done
business with. Jean Jacques and Olivier are top notch and as
honest as the day is long. I assure the members of this site
that I do not hold a grudge against Dessalator, I have just
moved on. No hidden agendas.

Kindest regards,
Gary Silver

Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335


Amel Santorin

uno.genesis <uno.genesis@...>
 

Dear all.
I'm looking for an Amel Santorin to buy. Does any body knows of any in
the market in Kroatia . I will be in the area in September. Please
advise me.
Thanks in advance