Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Insurance values

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi John, Only just read yr email on values. The Amel agent in the UK, Martin Bandey, reckoned last September that we might get 280,000 pnds for Pen Azen ( SM 302, launched June 2000).
I would be happy to pay the extra premium if in fact she was worth much more! Did you get any more info on values? Who was the Mallorca agent?
Cheers, Ian Jenkins


From: "John and Anne on Bali Hai" <annejohn@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Insurance values
Date: Tue, 23 Jan 2007 14:43:22 -0000

Bali Hai, SM2000 NO 319 launched 2001/1 is currently insured for 265K
and the premium is due for renewal.
A broker friend working in Mallorca has told me that one a year younger
was put on the market in November last at 350K and is now under
contract so he imagines that it probably went for something close to
the asking price.
Has anyone any suggestions......premiums are high enough without being
boosted by overvaluing.

Regards, John Hollamby




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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Genset Routine Service ??s

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Gary, Only now seen your Onan enquiry. I have had my valve lash serviced twice, once in St Maarten by a very nice Dutch lad who was the Onan agent. He said only one needed adjustment but that he slackened off the drive belt a little as he said they are often fitted slightly over tight by the factory.
The second time I had it done was by a competent but non-Onan engineer in Brazil.Having seen both guys at work it looks a pretty elememtary job. I cant remember what I paid but it was not a long job and the cost was inconsequential.

On another tack, my D 60 membranes have now done 1500 hours. Having wrtitten them off a few weeks ago, while I was waiting for replacements to arrive I cleaned the old ones with acid and alkali and they are now producing 40 lph at about 700-850 TDS in water temp of between 6 and 10 Centigrade . The only drawback is that it sometimes takes about 10 minutes for the TDS level to come down to something acceptable. What I draw from this is that membranes are pretty rugged bits of kit.
I couldnt agree more with you that you only need three switches and a TDS meterto run a watermaker.What all the other things are remons a complete mystery.
Fair winds, Ian and Judy Jenkins, Pen Azen, SM 302, Ushuaia.



From: amelliahona <no_reply@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan Genset Routine Service ??s
Date: Sat, 10 Feb 2007 15:53:11 -0000

10 Feb 2007

Hello everyone:
Some time ago I purchased a copy of the Onan MDKAL (the genset
Liahona (2001 SM hull # 335), operator's manual and Parts Catalog.

Page 16 of the Operator's Manual shows a table entitled "Periodic
Maintenance Schedule". I have two questions:

1. At 800 hrs it indicates to adjust the valve lash and says this
must be performed by an authorize Onan Dealer. Has anybody
had this done, and if so what where the cost and time requirements?

2. At every 5 year interval the generator bearing should be
replaced. Again the indication is that this must be done by an
authorized Onan Dealer. Again, anybody had this done?
If so please post your experiences.

Thanks in advance,

Gary Silver




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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu engine access

WILLIAM KLEIN <sidecar1@...>
 

Graham, I have been on vacation , so if you have previously mentioned that you are looking to purchase a boat, I missed your notice. As Joel pointed out my boat is available for sale at this time. She is in very good mechanical condition and if you wish further details please e-mail me at sidecar1@... and I will then gice you my phone number.--- Bill Klein

----- Original Message -----
From: Joel F. Potter
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, February 25, 2007 11:27 AM
Subject: FW: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu engine access


Hi Graham,

I'm biased for sure but most boats in the size and price range described by an AMEL Maramu
don't have an engine room and the ships machinery is stuffed under the companionway.
Access to components, ALL the components, in a Maramu is better than all but a few other
boats.

Unless the AMEL you looked at was modified, neither the bilge pump or the bilge pump
switch is mounted immersed in the bilge. We consider it a recipe for failure to put the
bilge pump and its' switch under water. The bilge pump is, normally, a diaphragm type and
the switch is actuated by a float. Both the switch and the pump are high and dry on a
1985 Maramu.

You should consider Bill Klein's Maramu. I sold it to him. He has done right by the boat
and, more importantly, he knows what he is doing. Many new owners of used AMEL'S do more
harm than good with ill considered "improvements". If you get an AMEL, insist that the
owner spend at least 3 days with you teaching you all the systems and then don't improve
anything until you live with the boat for a while.

Good luck in your search for a nice Maramu. They get harder to find every year.

All the best,
Joel F. Potter
AMEL 54 Hull # 14 "HOLLIS"

_____

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf
Of wgehrich
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 5:42 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu engine access

I inspected a 1985 Maramu today and was extremely impressed with
almost every aspect of the design and construction. The one thing
that troubles me is access to the front of the engine and access to
the deep bilge. I am 6'1" 210 lbs and could only reach the front
mounted alternator and pumps by bear hugging the engine (not a fun
prospect on a hot engine). There seemed to be no way I could reach
into the bilge.

Is there a trick I am missing or do you just have to be smaller of
frame to get to the front of the engine? Also, how to you remove a
dropped item from the bilge or change the bilge pump and/or switch?

I also noticed that there was maybe 8"-10" of shaft between the
transmission and shaft seal and the engine bedding looked it continued
10" aft. Seems unlikely, but I was wondering if this sounds typical
or if the (original) engine could have been mounted unusually far
forward.


FW: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu engine access

amelforme
 

Hi Graham,

I'm biased for sure but most boats in the size and price range described by an AMEL Maramu
don't have an engine room and the ships machinery is stuffed under the companionway.
Access to components, ALL the components, in a Maramu is better than all but a few other
boats.

Unless the AMEL you looked at was modified, neither the bilge pump or the bilge pump
switch is mounted immersed in the bilge. We consider it a recipe for failure to put the
bilge pump and its' switch under water. The bilge pump is, normally, a diaphragm type and
the switch is actuated by a float. Both the switch and the pump are high and dry on a
1985 Maramu.

You should consider Bill Klein's Maramu. I sold it to him. He has done right by the boat
and, more importantly, he knows what he is doing. Many new owners of used AMEL'S do more
harm than good with ill considered "improvements". If you get an AMEL, insist that the
owner spend at least 3 days with you teaching you all the systems and then don't improve
anything until you live with the boat for a while.

Good luck in your search for a nice Maramu. They get harder to find every year.

All the best,
Joel F. Potter
AMEL 54 Hull # 14 "HOLLIS"

_____

From: amelyachtowners@... [mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf
Of wgehrich
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 5:42 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu engine access

I inspected a 1985 Maramu today and was extremely impressed with
almost every aspect of the design and construction. The one thing
that troubles me is access to the front of the engine and access to
the deep bilge. I am 6'1" 210 lbs and could only reach the front
mounted alternator and pumps by bear hugging the engine (not a fun
prospect on a hot engine). There seemed to be no way I could reach
into the bilge.

Is there a trick I am missing or do you just have to be smaller of
frame to get to the front of the engine? Also, how to you remove a
dropped item from the bilge or change the bilge pump and/or switch?

I also noticed that there was maybe 8"-10" of shaft between the
transmission and shaft seal and the engine bedding looked it continued
10" aft. Seems unlikely, but I was wondering if this sounds typical
or if the (original) engine could have been mounted unusually far
forward.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu engine access

wgehrich
 

Bill,

Yes, I forgot the aftermost engine component was not the
transmission, but the shaft generator, which I believe was standard
equipment. Have you found a way to wedge yourself under the forward
cockpit lip on either/both of the port or starboard sides so that
you can inspect/repair from the side, or do you end up leaning over
the engine to service items mounted on the front of the engine?

BTW, the boat I inspected is not mine, my wife and I are prospective
purchasers. A fellow south Floridian was kind enough to show us his.

Graham

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "WILLIAM KLEIN"
<sidecar1@...> wrote:

The bilge sump is unaccessable by human hand. You would have to
use a magnet , hook or some type of grabber tool that mechanics use.
The placement of your engine is the same as on my 1981 Maramu. Do
you have a propeller shaft generator between the trans and shaft
seal as does mine? Bill Klein, SV POPEYE
----- Original Message -----
From: wgehrich
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 5:42 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu engine access


I inspected a 1985 Maramu today and was extremely impressed with
almost every aspect of the design and construction. The one
thing
that troubles me is access to the front of the engine and access
to
the deep bilge. I am 6'1" 210 lbs and could only reach the front
mounted alternator and pumps by bear hugging the engine (not a
fun
prospect on a hot engine). There seemed to be no way I could
reach
into the bilge.

Is there a trick I am missing or do you just have to be smaller
of
frame to get to the front of the engine? Also, how to you remove
a
dropped item from the bilge or change the bilge pump and/or
switch?

I also noticed that there was maybe 8"-10" of shaft between the
transmission and shaft seal and the engine bedding looked it
continued
10" aft. Seems unlikely, but I was wondering if this sounds
typical
or if the (original) engine could have been mounted unusually
far
forward.





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu engine access

WILLIAM KLEIN <sidecar1@...>
 

The bilge sump is unaccessable by human hand. You would have to use a magnet , hook or some type of grabber tool that mechanics use. The placement of your engine is the same as on my 1981 Maramu. Do you have a propeller shaft generator between the trans and shaft seal as does mine? Bill Klein, SV POPEYE

----- Original Message -----
From: wgehrich
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Saturday, February 24, 2007 5:42 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Maramu engine access


I inspected a 1985 Maramu today and was extremely impressed with
almost every aspect of the design and construction. The one thing
that troubles me is access to the front of the engine and access to
the deep bilge. I am 6'1" 210 lbs and could only reach the front
mounted alternator and pumps by bear hugging the engine (not a fun
prospect on a hot engine). There seemed to be no way I could reach
into the bilge.

Is there a trick I am missing or do you just have to be smaller of
frame to get to the front of the engine? Also, how to you remove a
dropped item from the bilge or change the bilge pump and/or switch?

I also noticed that there was maybe 8"-10" of shaft between the
transmission and shaft seal and the engine bedding looked it continued
10" aft. Seems unlikely, but I was wondering if this sounds typical
or if the (original) engine could have been mounted unusually far
forward.


Maramu engine access

wgehrich
 

I inspected a 1985 Maramu today and was extremely impressed with
almost every aspect of the design and construction. The one thing
that troubles me is access to the front of the engine and access to
the deep bilge. I am 6'1" 210 lbs and could only reach the front
mounted alternator and pumps by bear hugging the engine (not a fun
prospect on a hot engine). There seemed to be no way I could reach
into the bilge.

Is there a trick I am missing or do you just have to be smaller of
frame to get to the front of the engine? Also, how to you remove a
dropped item from the bilge or change the bilge pump and/or switch?

I also noticed that there was maybe 8"-10" of shaft between the
transmission and shaft seal and the engine bedding looked it continued
10" aft. Seems unlikely, but I was wondering if this sounds typical
or if the (original) engine could have been mounted unusually far
forward.


Re: Dessalator Water Maker Logic Board

drdavegoodman
 

I'm wondering how old the circuit board was when it failed? On older
Amels, perhaps it would be wise to carry an spare circuit board. Do
any of you carry a spare circuit board, or know of people who do?

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy" <sailingjudy@...> wrote:

Has anyone experienced a failure of the circuit board in the
Dessalator water maker?

Our 160 liter water maker cut off while making water and would not
restart. We checked everything, breakers, fuses on the logic board,
etc. We had it serviced by Electec in St. Martin.

It required the replacement of the logic board...about $450.

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v Security SM2 #387


Re: Dessalator Water Maker Logic Board

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Bill:

Regarding:

"All lights went out on the panel and would not come back on. I am
not positive about the green light on the board, but I am fairly
sure it was out as well. "
I suspect that a component in the power rectifier circuit failed. This
would shut down all power to the logic circuits including all the LED
indicators plus the Green LED on the circuit board.

This whole board could be replaced by a couple of switches because
all it does is act as a timer for starting the low pressure pump and
then the high pressure pump. The by-pass solenoid is activated
on a timer basis also since it isn't connected to the Dessalator
salinity sensor. Instead of several relays there could just as
easily be several switches with human input acting as the timer.

Switch #1 : Switches 24 VDC to the Low Pressure Pump Control
Relay and starts the pump.

Switch #2 : Switches 24 VDC to the High Pressure Pump Control
Relay and starts that pump

Swithc #3 : Switches 24 VDC to the By-pass Solenoid and
activates this solenoid

This last switch (i.e. relay) can be wired to a real salinity sensor so that
nothing gets to the fresh water tank until the water is truely safe. The
salinity sensor that I have recommended has a relay control circuit
incorporated.

I am glad you system is working again. Sorry it cost so much.

Gary


Re: Dessalator Water Maker Logic Board

Judy Rouse
 

Gary,

The replacement board was identical.

I gave the old board to the tech who helped me with the diagnosis.

All lights went out on the panel and would not come back on. I am
not positive about the green light on the board, but I am fairly
sure it was out as well. I did check power to the board when it was
switched "ON" and the board was receiving 24 VDC power. The fuses
on the board were good. While I was running the watermaker, it
simply quit.

I will see if I can get the board back for you.

Bill

--- In amelyachtowners@..., amelliahona <no_reply@...>
wrote:

Bill & Judy:

Sorry that your circuit board quit working. I would be curious
about the
details, i.e. what LEDs were lit when it quit?, was the green LED
on the
circuit board on after the failure?, did the high pressure pump
trip off,
did the diversion valve energize?, did the low pressure pump keep
running?, etc.

Do you still have the old board? Any chance you would send it to
me
for analysis.

Is the replacement board the same board or a newer version?
Any chance the new board actually works as advertised as far as
dirverting salt water or is it still the sham hookup that came
stock from Dessalator? I have considered designing a board that
would interface to a real salinity sensor and retrofitting it to my
system. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Gary Silver

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy" <sailingjudy@>
wrote:

Has anyone experienced a failure of the circuit board in the
Dessalator water maker?

Our 160 liter water maker cut off while making water and would
not
restart. We checked everything, breakers, fuses on the logic
board,
etc. We had it serviced by Electec in St. Martin.

It required the replacement of the logic board...about $450.

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v Security SM2 #387


Desalinator Membrane Assembly O-Ring Specifications

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

22 Feb 2007

Hi All:

I uploaded the O-ring Specifications to the Files section, Desalinator Technical Folder for
future refenece.

Gary Silver

s/v Liahona


Re: WATERMAKER MEMBRANE O-RINGS

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Lady Divina:

These are two posts that I made earlier that have the info you
desire:

21 Jun 2006
Eric:

I purchased my 0-rings from a local vendor here in Salt Lake City, Utah, USA,
called Hydra Pak 1-801-973-7325 .

Any local supplier of O-rings should have these O-rings since they are common
type. If all else fails let me know and I will get you some, but shipping might
cost more than the O-rings.

Gary

&

18 June 2006

I located my receipt for the O-rings I purchased for the watermaker
and they are as follows:

9.0 by 1.5 mm N70 (Interconnect Bobbin O-rings)

19.0 by 2.5 mm N70 (Membrane Nipple O-rings)

53.0 X 3.5 mm N70 (End Cap O-rings)

N70 = Nitrile (Buna) 0-rings.

Cost for 10 of each was $6.30 USD

Gary Silver

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "L. CAMERON" <solarconstruction@...> wrote:

FROM: LADY DIVINA, SM317

CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME WITH THE EXACT SIZE AND/OR PART NUMBER FOR THE
O-RINGS ON THE DESAL. DUO-60 MEMBRANES WITH HYDRA IN SALT LAKE CITY OR
OTHER SUPPLIER??
THANKS, LADY DIVINA SM317


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WATERMAKER MEMBRANE O-RINGS

L. CAMERON <solarconstruction@...>
 

FROM: LADY DIVINA, SM317

CAN ANYONE PLEASE HELP ME WITH THE EXACT SIZE AND/OR PART NUMBER FOR THE O-RINGS ON THE DESAL. DUO-60 MEMBRANES WITH HYDRA IN SALT LAKE CITY OR OTHER SUPPLIER??
THANKS, LADY DIVINA SM317


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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor windlass seals for Amel Maramu

north
 

Hello Mark,
You most likely have a Lofrans 'Tigres' windlass with a low voltage
foot-switch added by Amel.
The following link has a few links to download the various manuals and
documentation for you windlass.
http://www.ahoycaptain.com/shop/lofrans.tigres.html

Cheers!
North Pitney
BetaLab
Amel Sharki #30
Oakland, CA


On Feb 22, 2007, at 11:19 AM, Shann, Mark V wrote:

Hi there, I have a 1985 Maramu with a foredeck anchor windlass, which
has two black rubber seals on its top.
These seals are now worn and no longer watreproof, a good way to get a
mild electric shock - try and use them on a wet deck!

Can anyone help me identify a source to replace these seals and indeed
what is the anchor windlass name and model on the Maramu - I do not
have
any manuals. Many thanks, fair winds

Best Regards,

Mark Shann
Amel Maramu SYNNEFOULA
Marmaris

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor windlass seals for Amel Maramu

Lars Knudsen <museum@...>
 

Hi Mark



I had the same problem on my Santorin and just wrote an email to Amel in La
Rochelle.

They promptly sent me four new 'rubber boots' in a small envelope - and
still no invoice.



Best regards

Lars

Santorin #79





From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Shann, Mark V
Sent: 22. februar 2007 20:20
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor windlass seals for Amel Maramu



Hi there, I have a 1985 Maramu with a foredeck anchor windlass, which
has two black rubber seals on its top.
These seals are now worn and no longer watreproof, a good way to get a
mild electric shock - try and use them on a wet deck!

Can anyone help me identify a source to replace these seals and indeed
what is the anchor windlass name and model on the Maramu - I do not have
any manuals. Many thanks, fair winds

Best Regards,

Mark Shann
Amel Maramu SYNNEFOULA
Marmaris


Anchor windlass seals for Amel Maramu

Shann, Mark V <shannmv@...>
 

Hi there, I have a 1985 Maramu with a foredeck anchor windlass, which
has two black rubber seals on its top.
These seals are now worn and no longer watreproof, a good way to get a
mild electric shock - try and use them on a wet deck!

Can anyone help me identify a source to replace these seals and indeed
what is the anchor windlass name and model on the Maramu - I do not have
any manuals. Many thanks, fair winds

Best Regards,

Mark Shann
Amel Maramu SYNNEFOULA
Marmaris


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor windlass seals for Amel Maramu

svmalaika@...
 

Marc,

If your Maramu is like my previous one (Hull 102) the windless is a Lofrans
Tigres. AMEL supplied me with replacement rub
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Re: Butane and propane systems

edmund_steele
 

Gary,
I purchased propane regulators from a local propane supplier in the
USA. The regulators are attached via a hose adaptor. I cut the rubber
hose supplying the existing butane regulators, inserted the propane
regulator into the cut end of the "butane" hose and secured it with
two hose clamps. This very simply solved all of the "thread" matching
problems of US versus European hose ends!
I replaced both of the Amel supplied regulators but I see no reason
why you could not modify just one regulator. Then you just have to
find a propane tank that will fit in the same space as the butane
tank. I don't have the butane tanks any longer but I expect a ten
pound propane tank will fit in the same space as a 5 kilo butane
tank. According to the stove manufacturer for the Super Maramu, the
top stove burners required no modification between propane or butane
use but the air tube for the oven burner required a simple
adjustment.
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug (SM#331)
www.sv-doodlebug.com


--- In amelyachtowners@..., "gwollenberg" <gary@...>
wrote:

I have just arrived in St Martin from Europe. My Amel 54 has the
Butane
system. However, St Martine is propane. Has anybody set up a system
that you can set up a propane system and butane system that you can
switch between systems??

Thank you,
Gary Wollenberg,
Vessel "Bozo Cinq"


Butane and propane systems

gwollenberg <gary@...>
 

I have just arrived in St Martin from Europe. My Amel 54 has the Butane
system. However, St Martine is propane. Has anybody set up a system
that you can set up a propane system and butane system that you can
switch between systems??

Thank you,
Gary Wollenberg,
Vessel "Bozo Cinq"


Re: Dessalator Water Maker Logic Board

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Bill & Judy:

Sorry that your circuit board quit working. I would be curious about the
details, i.e. what LEDs were lit when it quit?, was the green LED on the
circuit board on after the failure?, did the high pressure pump trip off,
did the diversion valve energize?, did the low pressure pump keep
running?, etc.

Do you still have the old board? Any chance you would send it to me
for analysis.

Is the replacement board the same board or a newer version?
Any chance the new board actually works as advertised as far as
dirverting salt water or is it still the sham hookup that came
stock from Dessalator? I have considered designing a board that
would interface to a real salinity sensor and retrofitting it to my
system. Your thoughts would be appreciated.

Gary Silver

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Judy" <sailingjudy@...> wrote:

Has anyone experienced a failure of the circuit board in the
Dessalator water maker?

Our 160 liter water maker cut off while making water and would not
restart. We checked everything, breakers, fuses on the logic board,
etc. We had it serviced by Electec in St. Martin.

It required the replacement of the logic board...about $450.

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v Security SM2 #387