Date   

muffler question

Franz Gans
 

Hi,
I want to change my (coroded) satinless steel muffler to a Vetus type.
The engine is Volvo/Perkins TMD 22 P
Unfortunately I forgot measuring the diameter of the exhaust elbow,
when I was maintainig the boat in Greece, two weeks ago.

Can anyone tell me the size? Or even better the model number of the
recomended Vetus type and any installation tips.

By the way, maintainig the turbo was easy to do, and the turbo was
filled up with carbon and coroded.

Gottschalk Riegel

SM #300
Sardine


Question and advise

asm283 <no_reply@...>
 

Hello

The 24V plug for the dingy inflator in the lazarette is not getting
any power. I know there must be a breaker that has tripped. However, I
cannot find where this is. can anyone help?

I you have not had the pleasure of cleaning/replacing the outlet hose
of the head. Here is a little tip to make it easier.

When you remove the hose it is best to disconnect the head end first,
let it drain. Then if you look at were the hose connects on to the
holding tank you will see the smaller head outlet hose going into a
larger hose that is attached to the holding tank. It is much easier
and neater if you disconnect the larger hose where it is attached to
the holding tank and pull the hose out from the top. I have done it
both ways and this is much easier.

Thanks

Vito

ASM283

Wanderer

Vito


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo heat exchanger

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Thanks, Vito.

From: asm283 <no_reply@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo heat exchanger
Date: Mon, 03 Apr 2006 19:14:21 -0000

Hi Ian

I had the heat exchange removed and serviced. It was semi
complicated proedure. An owner could do it if he was familiar with
the process. If you are not mechanically inclined I would not
attempt it. There are seals to replace and most likely the heat
exchange will be in bad shape. I also had the turbo removed and
serviced. Check your muffler for rust.

Hope this helps.

Vito

Wanderer

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:

Hi, recently an owner wrote of cleaning the heat exchanger of
his Volvo,
but unfortunately I have deleted the relevant email. I now want
to do the
same. Could he tell me if he did this himself and if so what is
involved in
extracting the insert? It looks as though , once the pipework has
been
disconnected, four bolts holding a plate are extracted and the
pipes holdng
the seawater ( what I call the insert) are simply pulled forward
and out
of the exchanger. Is it this simple or do you also have remove the
turbo to
get access? Did you have to replace any seals?
Any info would be very welcome, Fair winds, Ian Jenkins, Pen
Azen, SM
302, Brazil







Yahoo! Groups Links






AMEL 54 Help for specs.

bragliae <ebraglia@...>
 

I am going to order a new AMEL 54. I wonder if some actual owner could
help me to better specify options with the manufacturer (size of
generator, type of watermaker etc.). Any help is very apreciated.
Thank you.


Re: Volvo heat exchanger

asm283 <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Ian

I had the heat exchange removed and serviced. It was semi
complicated proedure. An owner could do it if he was familiar with
the process. If you are not mechanically inclined I would not
attempt it. There are seals to replace and most likely the heat
exchange will be in bad shape. I also had the turbo removed and
serviced. Check your muffler for rust.

Hope this helps.

Vito

Wanderer

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:

Hi, recently an owner wrote of cleaning the heat exchanger of
his Volvo,
but unfortunately I have deleted the relevant email. I now want
to do the
same. Could he tell me if he did this himself and if so what is
involved in
extracting the insert? It looks as though , once the pipework has
been
disconnected, four bolts holding a plate are extracted and the
pipes holdng
the seawater ( what I call the ¨insert¨) are simply pulled forward
and out
of the exchanger. Is it this simple or do you also have remove the
turbo to
get access? Did you have to replace any seals?
Any info would be very welcome, Fair winds, Ian Jenkins, Pen
Azen, SM
302, Brazil


Volvo heat exchanger

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi, recently an owner wrote of cleaning the heat exchanger of his Volvo, but unfortunately I have deleted the relevant email. I now want to do the same. Could he tell me if he did this himself and if so what is involved in extracting the insert? It looks as though , once the pipework has been disconnected, four bolts holding a plate are extracted and the pipes holdng the seawater ( what I call the insert) are simply pulled forward and out of the exchanger. Is it this simple or do you also have remove the turbo to get access? Did you have to replace any seals?
Any info would be very welcome, Fair winds, Ian Jenkins, Pen Azen, SM 302, Brazil


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues

eric freedman
 

Gary,
When will you be on board?
What will be your itinerary?
I will be in the area from 4/26--5/6
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 10:16 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues

2 April 2006

I continue to investigate the watermaker issues. But Olivier Beaute, of
Amel, has
confirmed to me the following: (at least for watermakers of about my
vintage,
mannufactured about July 2001, Hull # 335),

If everything is working as originally installed the salinity sensor
should divert high
salinity water if detected. However, if the salinity sensor or the circuity
that senses the
salinity fails the watermaker will start up and operate as if everything is
normal even if
high salinity water is being produced. Furthermore, there is no indication
on the machine
to indicate whether or not the salinity sensor is working properly.

Thus my previous statement stands. If you want to avoid the failure
scenario that I
experienced (i.e. salt water being pumped into the fresh water tank when a
membrane
failed despite a green good quality water light) then you need a back up
secondary salinity
sensor with an alarm.

Dessalator says that they do not have schematics or logic diagrams for their
circuit board
because it was manufactured by a sub-contractor that is no longer in
business. They do
say that they have about 50 spare circuit boards available if anyone wants
theirs replaced.
However, it still isn't clear how to best know if you circuit boards is
working.

I suggest the following:

1. Inspect the four fuses on the circuit board to make sure all are ok
one fuse protects the circuit board
one fuse protects the relays
one fuse protects the solenoid
one fuse is the main power to the circuit board fuse.
I will post a picture - parts diagram with fuse sizes etc in an
upcoming post.
2. Verify that the green LED on the circuit board is lit (it indicates that
the DC power
supply on the board is working
3. Verify continuity of the wiring to the circuit board from the salinity
sensor at the
membranes. I had a corroded wire inside a connector.
4. Verify there is continuity of the wiring from the circuit board to the
solenoid.
5. Finally test the salinity sensor as I described in my previous post
using salt water bath
to see if the high salinity is detected and diverts the water.

I am reverse engineering the circuit board and will have those details
available after my
upcoming trip to the boat. At this point I do not believe that there is a
400 hertz signal on
the salinity sensor. It appears that it is a simple DC voltage on a Schmitt
trigger buffered
logic gate. More infor with schematics and a logic diagram in about 3
weeks.

Gary Silver






Yahoo! Groups Links


halyard and sheet lengths

eric freedman
 

Here are the mainsail and genoa dimensions for halyards and sheets : from
the factory
mainsail halyard : diameter 10 mm, length 17.20 meters, quality : Vectran
mainsail sheet : diam. 14 mm, length 18 m, polyester
genoa halyard : diam. 12 mm, length 39 m, Vectran
genoa sheet : diam. 16 mm, length 42 m, polyester
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 9:51 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: size of masthead sheaves and mainhalyard
for SM 2000

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Dr. Seidel" <mseidel@...> wrote:
I recently needed to know the diameter of the jib sheets. A quick email to
Olivier Beaute,
After Sales Service at amel@... yielded a prompt reply with the
specifics for my Serial
Number boat. I recommend that you send Olivier an email. I konw that this
yahoo site will
strip out the above email address so if you don't know amel.s email address
go to their web
site at amel.fr and get it there or email me personally and I will give it
to you.

Gary Silver

I have to replace the mainhalyard on my sm#349. The prior owner had cut
off the majority
of the halyard and it is hooked to a slide on a t-track on the mast. The
halyard is less than
7/16 inches?!. DOes anyone know the sheeve size for the main halyard and the
proper diam.
of the original or recommended halyard?
Thanks, murray seidel
"Sundance" sm 349









Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: size of masthead sheaves and mainhalyard for SM 2000

eric freedman
 

Hi,
Your main halyard is rigged properly. There is a matching piece of line
that attaches to the mainsail halyard car and is used to loosen or tighten
the halyard via a winch. There is no extra line on the halyard. Look in the
owners manual you will se how this works

This is the info on the halyard from the factory.
mainsail halyard : diameter 10 mm, length 17.20 meters, quality : Vectran

Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 9:51 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: size of masthead sheaves and mainhalyard
for SM 2000

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Dr. Seidel" <mseidel@...> wrote:
I recently needed to know the diameter of the jib sheets. A quick email to
Olivier Beaute,
After Sales Service at amel@... yielded a prompt reply with the
specifics for my Serial
Number boat. I recommend that you send Olivier an email. I konw that this
yahoo site will
strip out the above email address so if you don't know amel.s email address
go to their web
site at amel.fr and get it there or email me personally and I will give it
to you.

Gary Silver

I have to replace the mainhalyard on my sm#349. The prior owner had cut
off the majority
of the halyard and it is hooked to a slide on a t-track on the mast. The
halyard is less than
7/16 inches?!. DOes anyone know the sheeve size for the main halyard and the
proper diam.
of the original or recommended halyard?
Thanks, murray seidel
"Sundance" sm 349









Yahoo! Groups Links


Dessalator Water Maker Issues

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

2 April 2006

I continue to investigate the watermaker issues. But Olivier Beaute, of Amel, has
confirmed to me the following: (at least for watermakers of about my vintage,
mannufactured about July 2001, Hull # 335),

If everything is working as originally installed the salinity sensor should divert high
salinity water if detected. However, if the salinity sensor or the circuity that senses the
salinity fails the watermaker will start up and operate as if everything is normal even if
high salinity water is being produced. Furthermore, there is no indication on the machine
to indicate whether or not the salinity sensor is working properly.

Thus my previous statement stands. If you want to avoid the failure scenario that I
experienced (i.e. salt water being pumped into the fresh water tank when a membrane
failed despite a green good quality water light) then you need a back up secondary salinity
sensor with an alarm.

Dessalator says that they do not have schematics or logic diagrams for their circuit board
because it was manufactured by a sub-contractor that is no longer in business. They do
say that they have about 50 spare circuit boards available if anyone wants theirs replaced.
However, it still isn't clear how to best know if you circuit boards is working.

I suggest the following:

1. Inspect the four fuses on the circuit board to make sure all are ok
one fuse protects the circuit board
one fuse protects the relays
one fuse protects the solenoid
one fuse is the main power to the circuit board fuse.
I will post a picture - parts diagram with fuse sizes etc in an upcoming post.
2. Verify that the green LED on the circuit board is lit (it indicates that the DC power
supply on the board is working
3. Verify continuity of the wiring to the circuit board from the salinity sensor at the
membranes. I had a corroded wire inside a connector.
4. Verify there is continuity of the wiring from the circuit board to the solenoid.
5. Finally test the salinity sensor as I described in my previous post using salt water bath
to see if the high salinity is detected and diverts the water.

I am reverse engineering the circuit board and will have those details available after my
upcoming trip to the boat. At this point I do not believe that there is a 400 hertz signal on
the salinity sensor. It appears that it is a simple DC voltage on a Schmitt trigger buffered
logic gate. More infor with schematics and a logic diagram in about 3 weeks.

Gary Silver


Re: size of masthead sheaves and mainhalyard for SM 2000

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Dr. Seidel" <mseidel@...> wrote:
I recently needed to know the diameter of the jib sheets. A quick email to Olivier Beaute,
After Sales Service at amel@... yielded a prompt reply with the specifics for my Serial
Number boat. I recommend that you send Olivier an email. I konw that this yahoo site will
strip out the above email address so if you don't know amel.s email address go to their web
site at amel.fr and get it there or email me personally and I will give it to you.

Gary Silver

I have to replace the mainhalyard on my sm#349. The prior owner had cut off the majority
of the halyard and it is hooked to a slide on a t-track on the mast. The halyard is less than
7/16 inches?!. DOes anyone know the sheeve size for the main halyard and the proper diam.
of the original or recommended halyard? Thanks, murray seidel
"Sundance" sm 349

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Yacht Security

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

I have copied an article about security into the files section. It
appeared in the latest issue of the Royal Yachting Association
magazine.
One of the alarming things about it, at least for those of us in the
Mediteranean, is that it indicates that there have been piracy or
perhaps robbery attacks in Greek and Turkish waters.
One of the worst aspects does not get covered, namely robbers coming
on board whilst the crew are asleep.
When we were in the Caribbean we met one couple who were totally
traumatised by two natives getting on board in the middle of the
night with machetes and assaulting them as well as robbing them.They
were on their way back to Europe to sell their boat and in the
meantime they locked themselves in every evening despite the heat. I
read a report that a similar thing happened to a couple anchored in
a bay in St Lucia. A Swan was boarded in Barbuda and the four people
on board were murdered about 15 years ago. When we were in Venezuela
about that time our boat was out of the water in the boat yard and
there was good security by patrols with dogs etc. but we met a
couple who had their boat in a slip and had locked their outboard on
the transom before retiring. Thieves got on board and took the
padlock keys off the chart table and made off with the engine
without waking them We also had our dinghy stolen whilst we were
asleep in a small marina at an offshore island. The thieves had cut
through the painter and made off with the dinghy with a 15 hp
outboard. Luckily we were able to buy a new locally made dinghy and
another engine in Venezuela quite cheaply. The loss of a dinghy is
potentially a major problem as it makes it very difficult to get
ashore when at anchor so we also bought a cheap plastic dinghy as a
precaution.
What should one do.
So far as the yacht is concerned it would be very easy to have a
mesh covered frame to slide in on top of the washboard/hatch and of
course to have some way of securing any hatches with grills so that
there is still ventilation. Joshua Slocombe used to spread thumb
tacks on the deck which made for the noisy departure of boarders.
So far as dinghies are concerned I believe in making up a long
length of strong but flexible stainless wire with eyes swaged on at
both ends. It should be long enough to secure it to a fixing point
at the front of the dinghy and still be long enough to have about 3
or 4 yards of scope for those many occasions when there is only one
place for all the cruisers to go ashore
I did have a nice long plastic covered wire made by Masterlock but
one day the eye splice fell off as the plastic had chafed through
and the non stainless wire had rusted through without any obvious
sign of weakness !

Happy sailing, Anne and John SM 319


Re: Fuel dip stick

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "chislyons" <chislyons@...>
wrote:

Has anyone broken the fuel dip stick? We had a mishap and broke the
stick at the 300 liter mark and end piece is in the tank. Does
anyone
know if this will cause a problem with the piece blocking or
restricting the fuel to the engine?
Thanks

Dave
It will do no harm, A piece of wire a bit longer than the piece you
still hold should hook into the broken piece and pull it out.

Happy fishing, John


Fuel dip stick

chislyons <chislyons@...>
 

Has anyone broken the fuel dip stick? We had a mishap and broke the
stick at the 300 liter mark and end piece is in the tank. Does anyone
know if this will cause a problem with the piece blocking or
restricting the fuel to the engine?
Thanks

Dave


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator

PFM53 <pfm53@...>
 

Thanks to all who responded to my question. We opted to install a dual Racor
500 system, similar to what the new Amel's include.

Jerry

------ Original Message ------
Received: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 12:11:23 PM PST
From: Eric Lindholm <etlindholm@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator

That should be more than adequate, the largest Detroit Diesels flow 100 gph.
Eric 105

PFM53 <pfm53@...> wrote: Does anyone know what size Racor fuel
filter/water separator is recommended
for the Volvo TMD22? I would think that the 60 GPH (227LPH) size should be
sufficient, but I haven't been able to determine the specific GPH
requirements
for this engine.

Thanks

Jerry






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: TDS Tester and in-line meter

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Ian:

I believe your error on your TDS meter upon startup is due to High TDS (i.e. high EC,
electrical conductivity) due to TDS CREEP. See my post # 2062 dated March 13, 2006 for
a discussion on TDS Creep. It takes my system about 60 seconds running at pressure
for the EC to recover from the TDS Creep and come down to about 400-450
microSiemens/cm where it stabilizes during the run. Certainly intermittent testing of TDS
is better than nothing but I really like the security of knowing from minute to minute that
the EC is within acceptable limits. The Omega EC monitor sounds an alarm at an EC level
that you can set. I set my at 800 microSiemens/cm.

Besides the EC meter installed about six inches downstream from membranes I also
installed a valve and short hose just prior to the product water line entering the copper
pipe that empties into the fresh water tank. I can take water samples here also to verify
with my hand held TDS meter.

TESTING THE DESSALATOR EC sensor. The Dessalator circuit board has an oscillator
circuit on it that I would guess from previous posts supplies 400 hertz low level AC
voltage to the sensor and measures the EC of the product water. I tested my system as
follows: I took the sensor out of the piping and immersed it in a cup of fresh water. The
system started up, changed over at the one minute mark to a green light and good quality
indication and produced water. At that point I poored sea water into the cup with the
sensor in it. Using my hand held TDS meter I verified that the TDS of the water in which
the sensor was immersed was greater than 10,000 ppm. The system did not alarm and
continued to produce water. I waited for 10 minutes with it in this mode to see if there
was a timer function to prevent transient high TDS from prematurelyl shutting down the
system but for at least ten minutes the system continued to run without diverting the
water or indicating poor quality water. I then shut the system down and let it rest for 30
minutes. Then with the sensor still immersed in the salt water sample I started the system
up normally. It started exactly as before, at one minute green light, water production
starts and continues. So in neither situation did the sensor and associated circuity
recongnize "bad quality" water and function appropriately.

See my previous posts related to lack of documentation on the circuity or a coherent
explanation of how the system is SUPPOSED to work. Joel shares our frustration with
Dessalator and is indeed having trouble with the NEW Dessalator system on his 54. I have
written to Jean Jacques Lemonier regarding this issue and Olivier Beaute has responded to
me in a timely, professional and detailed fashion. I am awaiting a few clarifications from
Olivier and then will summarize what I have found. I stand by my suggestion to all Amel
owners with Dessalator systems that they should install an independant EC monitor
(preferably a continuous monitor). Amel remains the finest company I have ever done
business with.

Regards,

Gary Silver Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335 Lying Sea Cow Bay, Tortola, BVI


Hi Roy,

Would you please let me know if you have successfully installed your inline
TDS meters? I installed one immediately after the outlet from the membranes
on my 160 l/h unit and it came up with an error message after a second or so
I suspect that the flow rate might have been too high there as the meter
worked when the output hose was connected taken off the copper pipe that
goes to the tank and the water allowed to pass through the sensor fittings.
That's too low down to mount the meter in the galley, so if you find a
location higher up that works, then please let me know.

There have been several promises from Rod Boreham and Joel for a
clarification statement on exactly what protection there is against bad
water polluting our one and only water tank, but to date I have seen nothing
published. The fact that no reassurance has been forthcoming gives me an
uneasy feeling. It's time the record was put straight. If the protection is
not there, then there is a potentially dangerous situation for those of us
who rely upon the integrity of our water tank for long distance passages.
The facts must be known to Desallator, so why have they not come forwards to
defend their design? It's time we knew whether the salinity probe does what
we all hope it will do, or not.

Several have suggested that shorting the probe contacts will test it's
function. I am told that this is not so as the probes are subjected to a 500
Hz alternating voltage and so shorting them does not simulate a high
salinity content.

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM 414 'Crusader'


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Ian,

Look up Gary's posting of Feb. 24, 2006, #1998 on this site, in
which he explains how he plumbed the TDS meter inline.

Roy

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...>
wrote:

Hi Roy,

I look forward to hearing from Gary about his experiences with an
inline TDS
meter.

Cheers

Ian


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter

Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
 

Hi Roy,

Thanks for the mail. You are right. The later SM's did not come with the
faucet on the water maker control panel. It was relocated to the oil
reservoir attached to the high pressure pump. It makes for easy and frequent
oil changes, but to sample the water product with my hand held Hanna TDS
meter, I have to disconnect the pipe in the engine room that goes to the
tank and gather a sample into a cup.

I look forward to hearing from Gary about his experiences with an inline TDS
meter.

Cheers

Ian

-------Original Message-------

From: rbenven44
Date: 03/24/06 17:42:14
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...>
wrote:

Hi Roy,

Would you please let me know if you have successfully installed
your inline TDS meters?

Hi Ian,

I ended up buying the portable TDS meter, and will check it out when
I go to the boat next month. Gary Silver on Liahona, I believe,
installed the in-line sensor. He should tell you about his
experience.

On my SM (#195) the control panel for the watermaker has a small
faucet that can be used to sample product water. I always check this
before filling my tank, as I have believed since the first year I had
the boat that the salinity tester did not work. I normally check the
product water by tasting it, but now I will supplement that by
measuring the TDS.

Do newer SMs still have this faucet on the Dessalator control panel
in the galley? It's a very valuable item, and maybe Dessalator can
be persuaded to re-install it if it's no longer there.

Regards, Roy







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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...>
wrote:

Hi Roy,

Would you please let me know if you have successfully installed
your inline TDS meters?

Hi Ian,

I ended up buying the portable TDS meter, and will check it out when
I go to the boat next month. Gary Silver on Liahona, I believe,
installed the in-line sensor. He should tell you about his
experience.

On my SM (#195) the control panel for the watermaker has a small
faucet that can be used to sample product water. I always check this
before filling my tank, as I have believed since the first year I had
the boat that the salinity tester did not work. I normally check the
product water by tasting it, but now I will supplement that by
measuring the TDS.

Do newer SMs still have this faucet on the Dessalator control panel
in the galley? It's a very valuable item, and maybe Dessalator can
be persuaded to re-install it if it's no longer there.

Regards, Roy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 heat exchanger

Mike Ondra <mondra@...>
 

Thanks for the information. The 4000 rpm was without prop engaged. We have
yet to test out boat speed v. rpm. Volvo mixing elbow cost here in Maryland
was a bit over $600.
_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of asm283
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 12:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 heat exchanger


Hi Mike

As I write this my cooling system is apart for serice. Same sort of
issues, blocked tubes with growth and calcium deposits. The miximg
elbow was corroded and needs replacement. I did find what looked
like weeds. I cant believe that these got trough the strainer then
made it past the impeller and then into the tubes. It must be some
kind of growth. I have spent quite a bit of time in the tropics and
strange things grow out here. This is the first time I have done
this on my 6 year old boat.

As far as the carbon built up in the turbo. This is a trait of this
engine. It seems that everyone has this problem. Just put it on your
maintenane list. I have had it cleaned and serviced twice in the
past year. I have done a lot of low RPM motoring in the past year
(600 hours) wich will cause the carbon built up. You will find that
you will run at low RPMs in order to get better fuel economy.
Important for long passages.

Also, check your muffler for corrosion.

When you say that you got the engine up to 4,000 rpm is with the
prop engaged. What was your speed.

Good luck with your SM. Sevice her and she will treat you right. I
crossed from Guadaloupe to New Zealand this year and not a thing
went wrong with the boat. People with much more expensive and newer
boats had many more problems that I did.

There is a maintenance list written by Mr. Selo of Amel floating
around this site. Follow his recomendations and the boat will work
well. Maybe someone who is closer to you can send it to you.

Vito Ciaravino

ASM # 283

Wanderer

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "mike_ondra" <mondra@...>
wrote:

After de-winterizing our recently purchased SM 2000 and starting
the
engine, we rapidly blanketed the marina in what could easily have
been mistaken as a June fog on the Maine coast. Unlike fog it did
not lift or burn off as the day progressed.

Turns out the heat exchanger was at least 50% blocked with sea
grass, pine needles and other small debris as well as general
crud.
Perhaps it was the restricted flow that resulted in extra high
temperatures on the exhaust side and perhaps steam and water
pushing
back from the injection elbow into the turbo which was
significantly
carboned up. After a thorough cleaning of both the heat exchanger
and turbo, the engine burns clean and now peaks at 4000 rpm. We
hadn't tried to run it up last fall, but after dewinterizing and
before this cleanup it seemed to flag at around 2600 rpm.

Photos of the heat exchanger core are posted under Aletes SM#240.
One can see the amount of buildup on the core tubes and pieces of
debris jammed into the tubes and laying in the end caps.

This experience leads to two questions.

1) How did this debris get through the strainer? It seems the
strainer basket does not have a compressible seal at the top or
bottom, and in fact has a bit of vertical play. Might there be
enough of a gap to allow a blade of sea grass or pine needle to
sneak around the strainer? Would adding a compressible gasket to
the top and bottom of the basket provide the requisite seal?

2) Why does the Volvo manual not mention maintenance on the heat
exchanger or on the turbo? From what we found, it would seem a
look-
see would be appropriate at least every 500 hours.

Interested in the experience of others on these issues.

Mike Ondra
S/Y Aletes SM#240






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