Date   

Dessalator Water Maker Issues

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

2 April 2006

I continue to investigate the watermaker issues. But Olivier Beaute, of Amel, has
confirmed to me the following: (at least for watermakers of about my vintage,
mannufactured about July 2001, Hull # 335),

If everything is working as originally installed the salinity sensor should divert high
salinity water if detected. However, if the salinity sensor or the circuity that senses the
salinity fails the watermaker will start up and operate as if everything is normal even if
high salinity water is being produced. Furthermore, there is no indication on the machine
to indicate whether or not the salinity sensor is working properly.

Thus my previous statement stands. If you want to avoid the failure scenario that I
experienced (i.e. salt water being pumped into the fresh water tank when a membrane
failed despite a green good quality water light) then you need a back up secondary salinity
sensor with an alarm.

Dessalator says that they do not have schematics or logic diagrams for their circuit board
because it was manufactured by a sub-contractor that is no longer in business. They do
say that they have about 50 spare circuit boards available if anyone wants theirs replaced.
However, it still isn't clear how to best know if you circuit boards is working.

I suggest the following:

1. Inspect the four fuses on the circuit board to make sure all are ok
one fuse protects the circuit board
one fuse protects the relays
one fuse protects the solenoid
one fuse is the main power to the circuit board fuse.
I will post a picture - parts diagram with fuse sizes etc in an upcoming post.
2. Verify that the green LED on the circuit board is lit (it indicates that the DC power
supply on the board is working
3. Verify continuity of the wiring to the circuit board from the salinity sensor at the
membranes. I had a corroded wire inside a connector.
4. Verify there is continuity of the wiring from the circuit board to the solenoid.
5. Finally test the salinity sensor as I described in my previous post using salt water bath
to see if the high salinity is detected and diverts the water.

I am reverse engineering the circuit board and will have those details available after my
upcoming trip to the boat. At this point I do not believe that there is a 400 hertz signal on
the salinity sensor. It appears that it is a simple DC voltage on a Schmitt trigger buffered
logic gate. More infor with schematics and a logic diagram in about 3 weeks.

Gary Silver


Re: size of masthead sheaves and mainhalyard for SM 2000

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Dr. Seidel" <mseidel@...> wrote:
I recently needed to know the diameter of the jib sheets. A quick email to Olivier Beaute,
After Sales Service at amel@... yielded a prompt reply with the specifics for my Serial
Number boat. I recommend that you send Olivier an email. I konw that this yahoo site will
strip out the above email address so if you don't know amel.s email address go to their web
site at amel.fr and get it there or email me personally and I will give it to you.

Gary Silver

I have to replace the mainhalyard on my sm#349. The prior owner had cut off the majority
of the halyard and it is hooked to a slide on a t-track on the mast. The halyard is less than
7/16 inches?!. DOes anyone know the sheeve size for the main halyard and the proper diam.
of the original or recommended halyard? Thanks, murray seidel
"Sundance" sm 349

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Yacht Security

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

I have copied an article about security into the files section. It
appeared in the latest issue of the Royal Yachting Association
magazine.
One of the alarming things about it, at least for those of us in the
Mediteranean, is that it indicates that there have been piracy or
perhaps robbery attacks in Greek and Turkish waters.
One of the worst aspects does not get covered, namely robbers coming
on board whilst the crew are asleep.
When we were in the Caribbean we met one couple who were totally
traumatised by two natives getting on board in the middle of the
night with machetes and assaulting them as well as robbing them.They
were on their way back to Europe to sell their boat and in the
meantime they locked themselves in every evening despite the heat. I
read a report that a similar thing happened to a couple anchored in
a bay in St Lucia. A Swan was boarded in Barbuda and the four people
on board were murdered about 15 years ago. When we were in Venezuela
about that time our boat was out of the water in the boat yard and
there was good security by patrols with dogs etc. but we met a
couple who had their boat in a slip and had locked their outboard on
the transom before retiring. Thieves got on board and took the
padlock keys off the chart table and made off with the engine
without waking them We also had our dinghy stolen whilst we were
asleep in a small marina at an offshore island. The thieves had cut
through the painter and made off with the dinghy with a 15 hp
outboard. Luckily we were able to buy a new locally made dinghy and
another engine in Venezuela quite cheaply. The loss of a dinghy is
potentially a major problem as it makes it very difficult to get
ashore when at anchor so we also bought a cheap plastic dinghy as a
precaution.
What should one do.
So far as the yacht is concerned it would be very easy to have a
mesh covered frame to slide in on top of the washboard/hatch and of
course to have some way of securing any hatches with grills so that
there is still ventilation. Joshua Slocombe used to spread thumb
tacks on the deck which made for the noisy departure of boarders.
So far as dinghies are concerned I believe in making up a long
length of strong but flexible stainless wire with eyes swaged on at
both ends. It should be long enough to secure it to a fixing point
at the front of the dinghy and still be long enough to have about 3
or 4 yards of scope for those many occasions when there is only one
place for all the cruisers to go ashore
I did have a nice long plastic covered wire made by Masterlock but
one day the eye splice fell off as the plastic had chafed through
and the non stainless wire had rusted through without any obvious
sign of weakness !

Happy sailing, Anne and John SM 319


Re: Fuel dip stick

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "chislyons" <chislyons@...>
wrote:

Has anyone broken the fuel dip stick? We had a mishap and broke the
stick at the 300 liter mark and end piece is in the tank. Does
anyone
know if this will cause a problem with the piece blocking or
restricting the fuel to the engine?
Thanks

Dave
It will do no harm, A piece of wire a bit longer than the piece you
still hold should hook into the broken piece and pull it out.

Happy fishing, John


Fuel dip stick

chislyons <chislyons@...>
 

Has anyone broken the fuel dip stick? We had a mishap and broke the
stick at the 300 liter mark and end piece is in the tank. Does anyone
know if this will cause a problem with the piece blocking or
restricting the fuel to the engine?
Thanks

Dave


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator

PFM53 <pfm53@...>
 

Thanks to all who responded to my question. We opted to install a dual Racor
500 system, similar to what the new Amel's include.

Jerry

------ Original Message ------
Received: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 12:11:23 PM PST
From: Eric Lindholm <etlindholm@...>
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator

That should be more than adequate, the largest Detroit Diesels flow 100 gph.
Eric 105

PFM53 <pfm53@...> wrote: Does anyone know what size Racor fuel
filter/water separator is recommended
for the Volvo TMD22? I would think that the 60 GPH (227LPH) size should be
sufficient, but I haven't been able to determine the specific GPH
requirements
for this engine.

Thanks

Jerry






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Re: TDS Tester and in-line meter

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Ian:

I believe your error on your TDS meter upon startup is due to High TDS (i.e. high EC,
electrical conductivity) due to TDS CREEP. See my post # 2062 dated March 13, 2006 for
a discussion on TDS Creep. It takes my system about 60 seconds running at pressure
for the EC to recover from the TDS Creep and come down to about 400-450
microSiemens/cm where it stabilizes during the run. Certainly intermittent testing of TDS
is better than nothing but I really like the security of knowing from minute to minute that
the EC is within acceptable limits. The Omega EC monitor sounds an alarm at an EC level
that you can set. I set my at 800 microSiemens/cm.

Besides the EC meter installed about six inches downstream from membranes I also
installed a valve and short hose just prior to the product water line entering the copper
pipe that empties into the fresh water tank. I can take water samples here also to verify
with my hand held TDS meter.

TESTING THE DESSALATOR EC sensor. The Dessalator circuit board has an oscillator
circuit on it that I would guess from previous posts supplies 400 hertz low level AC
voltage to the sensor and measures the EC of the product water. I tested my system as
follows: I took the sensor out of the piping and immersed it in a cup of fresh water. The
system started up, changed over at the one minute mark to a green light and good quality
indication and produced water. At that point I poored sea water into the cup with the
sensor in it. Using my hand held TDS meter I verified that the TDS of the water in which
the sensor was immersed was greater than 10,000 ppm. The system did not alarm and
continued to produce water. I waited for 10 minutes with it in this mode to see if there
was a timer function to prevent transient high TDS from prematurelyl shutting down the
system but for at least ten minutes the system continued to run without diverting the
water or indicating poor quality water. I then shut the system down and let it rest for 30
minutes. Then with the sensor still immersed in the salt water sample I started the system
up normally. It started exactly as before, at one minute green light, water production
starts and continues. So in neither situation did the sensor and associated circuity
recongnize "bad quality" water and function appropriately.

See my previous posts related to lack of documentation on the circuity or a coherent
explanation of how the system is SUPPOSED to work. Joel shares our frustration with
Dessalator and is indeed having trouble with the NEW Dessalator system on his 54. I have
written to Jean Jacques Lemonier regarding this issue and Olivier Beaute has responded to
me in a timely, professional and detailed fashion. I am awaiting a few clarifications from
Olivier and then will summarize what I have found. I stand by my suggestion to all Amel
owners with Dessalator systems that they should install an independant EC monitor
(preferably a continuous monitor). Amel remains the finest company I have ever done
business with.

Regards,

Gary Silver Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335 Lying Sea Cow Bay, Tortola, BVI


Hi Roy,

Would you please let me know if you have successfully installed your inline
TDS meters? I installed one immediately after the outlet from the membranes
on my 160 l/h unit and it came up with an error message after a second or so
I suspect that the flow rate might have been too high there as the meter
worked when the output hose was connected taken off the copper pipe that
goes to the tank and the water allowed to pass through the sensor fittings.
That's too low down to mount the meter in the galley, so if you find a
location higher up that works, then please let me know.

There have been several promises from Rod Boreham and Joel for a
clarification statement on exactly what protection there is against bad
water polluting our one and only water tank, but to date I have seen nothing
published. The fact that no reassurance has been forthcoming gives me an
uneasy feeling. It's time the record was put straight. If the protection is
not there, then there is a potentially dangerous situation for those of us
who rely upon the integrity of our water tank for long distance passages.
The facts must be known to Desallator, so why have they not come forwards to
defend their design? It's time we knew whether the salinity probe does what
we all hope it will do, or not.

Several have suggested that shorting the probe contacts will test it's
function. I am told that this is not so as the probes are subjected to a 500
Hz alternating voltage and so shorting them does not simulate a high
salinity content.

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM 414 'Crusader'


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Ian,

Look up Gary's posting of Feb. 24, 2006, #1998 on this site, in
which he explains how he plumbed the TDS meter inline.

Roy

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...>
wrote:

Hi Roy,

I look forward to hearing from Gary about his experiences with an
inline TDS
meter.

Cheers

Ian


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter

Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
 

Hi Roy,

Thanks for the mail. You are right. The later SM's did not come with the
faucet on the water maker control panel. It was relocated to the oil
reservoir attached to the high pressure pump. It makes for easy and frequent
oil changes, but to sample the water product with my hand held Hanna TDS
meter, I have to disconnect the pipe in the engine room that goes to the
tank and gather a sample into a cup.

I look forward to hearing from Gary about his experiences with an inline TDS
meter.

Cheers

Ian

-------Original Message-------

From: rbenven44
Date: 03/24/06 17:42:14
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...>
wrote:

Hi Roy,

Would you please let me know if you have successfully installed
your inline TDS meters?

Hi Ian,

I ended up buying the portable TDS meter, and will check it out when
I go to the boat next month. Gary Silver on Liahona, I believe,
installed the in-line sensor. He should tell you about his
experience.

On my SM (#195) the control panel for the watermaker has a small
faucet that can be used to sample product water. I always check this
before filling my tank, as I have believed since the first year I had
the boat that the salinity tester did not work. I normally check the
product water by tasting it, but now I will supplement that by
measuring the TDS.

Do newer SMs still have this faucet on the Dessalator control panel
in the galley? It's a very valuable item, and maybe Dessalator can
be persuaded to re-install it if it's no longer there.

Regards, Roy







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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...>
wrote:

Hi Roy,

Would you please let me know if you have successfully installed
your inline TDS meters?

Hi Ian,

I ended up buying the portable TDS meter, and will check it out when
I go to the boat next month. Gary Silver on Liahona, I believe,
installed the in-line sensor. He should tell you about his
experience.

On my SM (#195) the control panel for the watermaker has a small
faucet that can be used to sample product water. I always check this
before filling my tank, as I have believed since the first year I had
the boat that the salinity tester did not work. I normally check the
product water by tasting it, but now I will supplement that by
measuring the TDS.

Do newer SMs still have this faucet on the Dessalator control panel
in the galley? It's a very valuable item, and maybe Dessalator can
be persuaded to re-install it if it's no longer there.

Regards, Roy


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 heat exchanger

Mike Ondra <mondra@...>
 

Thanks for the information. The 4000 rpm was without prop engaged. We have
yet to test out boat speed v. rpm. Volvo mixing elbow cost here in Maryland
was a bit over $600.
_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of asm283
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 12:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 heat exchanger


Hi Mike

As I write this my cooling system is apart for serice. Same sort of
issues, blocked tubes with growth and calcium deposits. The miximg
elbow was corroded and needs replacement. I did find what looked
like weeds. I cant believe that these got trough the strainer then
made it past the impeller and then into the tubes. It must be some
kind of growth. I have spent quite a bit of time in the tropics and
strange things grow out here. This is the first time I have done
this on my 6 year old boat.

As far as the carbon built up in the turbo. This is a trait of this
engine. It seems that everyone has this problem. Just put it on your
maintenane list. I have had it cleaned and serviced twice in the
past year. I have done a lot of low RPM motoring in the past year
(600 hours) wich will cause the carbon built up. You will find that
you will run at low RPMs in order to get better fuel economy.
Important for long passages.

Also, check your muffler for corrosion.

When you say that you got the engine up to 4,000 rpm is with the
prop engaged. What was your speed.

Good luck with your SM. Sevice her and she will treat you right. I
crossed from Guadaloupe to New Zealand this year and not a thing
went wrong with the boat. People with much more expensive and newer
boats had many more problems that I did.

There is a maintenance list written by Mr. Selo of Amel floating
around this site. Follow his recomendations and the boat will work
well. Maybe someone who is closer to you can send it to you.

Vito Ciaravino

ASM # 283

Wanderer

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "mike_ondra" <mondra@...>
wrote:

After de-winterizing our recently purchased SM 2000 and starting
the
engine, we rapidly blanketed the marina in what could easily have
been mistaken as a June fog on the Maine coast. Unlike fog it did
not lift or burn off as the day progressed.

Turns out the heat exchanger was at least 50% blocked with sea
grass, pine needles and other small debris as well as general
crud.
Perhaps it was the restricted flow that resulted in extra high
temperatures on the exhaust side and perhaps steam and water
pushing
back from the injection elbow into the turbo which was
significantly
carboned up. After a thorough cleaning of both the heat exchanger
and turbo, the engine burns clean and now peaks at 4000 rpm. We
hadn't tried to run it up last fall, but after dewinterizing and
before this cleanup it seemed to flag at around 2600 rpm.

Photos of the heat exchanger core are posted under Aletes SM#240.
One can see the amount of buildup on the core tubes and pieces of
debris jammed into the tubes and laying in the end caps.

This experience leads to two questions.

1) How did this debris get through the strainer? It seems the
strainer basket does not have a compressible seal at the top or
bottom, and in fact has a bit of vertical play. Might there be
enough of a gap to allow a blade of sea grass or pine needle to
sneak around the strainer? Would adding a compressible gasket to
the top and bottom of the basket provide the requisite seal?

2) Why does the Volvo manual not mention maintenance on the heat
exchanger or on the turbo? From what we found, it would seem a
look-
see would be appropriate at least every 500 hours.

Interested in the experience of others on these issues.

Mike Ondra
S/Y Aletes SM#240






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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter

Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
 

Hi Roy,

Would you please let me know if you have successfully installed your inline
TDS meters? I installed one immediately after the outlet from the membranes
on my 160 l/h unit and it came up with an error message after a second or so
I suspect that the flow rate might have been too high there as the meter
worked when the output hose was connected taken off the copper pipe that
goes to the tank and the water allowed to pass through the sensor fittings.
That's too low down to mount the meter in the galley, so if you find a
location higher up that works, then please let me know.

There have been several promises from Rod Boreham and Joel for a
clarification statement on exactly what protection there is against bad
water polluting our one and only water tank, but to date I have seen nothing
published. The fact that no reassurance has been forthcoming gives me an
uneasy feeling. It's time the record was put straight. If the protection is
not there, then there is a potentially dangerous situation for those of us
who rely upon the integrity of our water tank for long distance passages.
The facts must be known to Desallator, so why have they not come forwards to
defend their design? It's time we knew whether the salinity probe does what
we all hope it will do, or not.

Several have suggested that shorting the probe contacts will test it's
function. I am told that this is not so as the probes are subjected to a 500
Hz alternating voltage and so shorting them does not simulate a high
salinity content.

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM 414 'Crusader'

-------Original Message-------

From: rbenven44
Date: 01/13/06 22:55:37
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter

Hi,
I have been following the discussion about watermakers and
especially the reliability of the salinity sensor on the Dessalator
unit. I recently had to replace a RO unit at home, and started looking
for suppliers on line. I found this source:
http://www.waterfiltersonline.com/reverse-osmosis-systems.asp
that sells portable TDS meters for under $40, and an in-line meter for
under $50. They seem like good investments to check the quality of our
watermakers. I will be ordering one or both for our boat.

Regards, Roy (Excalibur SM #195)







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Re: Volvo TMD22 heat exchanger

asm283 <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Mike

As I write this my cooling system is apart for serice. Same sort of
issues, blocked tubes with growth and calcium deposits. The miximg
elbow was corroded and needs replacement. I did find what looked
like weeds. I cant believe that these got trough the strainer then
made it past the impeller and then into the tubes. It must be some
kind of growth. I have spent quite a bit of time in the tropics and
strange things grow out here. This is the first time I have done
this on my 6 year old boat.

As far as the carbon built up in the turbo. This is a trait of this
engine. It seems that everyone has this problem. Just put it on your
maintenane list. I have had it cleaned and serviced twice in the
past year. I have done a lot of low RPM motoring in the past year
(600 hours) wich will cause the carbon built up. You will find that
you will run at low RPMs in order to get better fuel economy.
Important for long passages.

Also, check your muffler for corrosion.

When you say that you got the engine up to 4,000 rpm is with the
prop engaged. What was your speed.

Good luck with your SM. Sevice her and she will treat you right. I
crossed from Guadaloupe to New Zealand this year and not a thing
went wrong with the boat. People with much more expensive and newer
boats had many more problems that I did.

There is a maintenance list written by Mr. Selo of Amel floating
around this site. Follow his recomendations and the boat will work
well. Maybe someone who is closer to you can send it to you.

Vito Ciaravino

ASM # 283

Wanderer

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "mike_ondra" <mondra@...>
wrote:

After de-winterizing our recently purchased SM 2000 and starting
the
engine, we rapidly blanketed the marina in what could easily have
been mistaken as a June fog on the Maine coast. Unlike fog it did
not lift or burn off as the day progressed.

Turns out the heat exchanger was at least 50% blocked with sea
grass, pine needles and other small debris as well as general
crud.
Perhaps it was the restricted flow that resulted in extra high
temperatures on the exhaust side and perhaps steam and water
pushing
back from the injection elbow into the turbo which was
significantly
carboned up. After a thorough cleaning of both the heat exchanger
and turbo, the engine burns clean and now peaks at 4000 rpm. We
hadn't tried to run it up last fall, but after dewinterizing and
before this cleanup it seemed to flag at around 2600 rpm.

Photos of the heat exchanger core are posted under Aletes SM#240.
One can see the amount of buildup on the core tubes and pieces of
debris jammed into the tubes and laying in the end caps.

This experience leads to two questions.

1) How did this debris get through the strainer? It seems the
strainer basket does not have a compressible seal at the top or
bottom, and in fact has a bit of vertical play. Might there be
enough of a gap to allow a blade of sea grass or pine needle to
sneak around the strainer? Would adding a compressible gasket to
the top and bottom of the basket provide the requisite seal?

2) Why does the Volvo manual not mention maintenance on the heat
exchanger or on the turbo? From what we found, it would seem a
look-
see would be appropriate at least every 500 hours.

Interested in the experience of others on these issues.

Mike Ondra
S/Y Aletes SM#240


Volvo TMD22 heat exchanger

mike_ondra <mondra@...>
 

After de-winterizing our recently purchased SM 2000 and starting the
engine, we rapidly blanketed the marina in what could easily have
been mistaken as a June fog on the Maine coast. Unlike fog it did
not lift or burn off as the day progressed.

Turns out the heat exchanger was at least 50% blocked with sea
grass, pine needles and other small debris as well as general crud.
Perhaps it was the restricted flow that resulted in extra high
temperatures on the exhaust side and perhaps steam and water pushing
back from the injection elbow into the turbo which was significantly
carboned up. After a thorough cleaning of both the heat exchanger
and turbo, the engine burns clean and now peaks at 4000 rpm. We
hadn't tried to run it up last fall, but after dewinterizing and
before this cleanup it seemed to flag at around 2600 rpm.

Photos of the heat exchanger core are posted under Aletes SM#240.
One can see the amount of buildup on the core tubes and pieces of
debris jammed into the tubes and laying in the end caps.

This experience leads to two questions.

1) How did this debris get through the strainer? It seems the
strainer basket does not have a compressible seal at the top or
bottom, and in fact has a bit of vertical play. Might there be
enough of a gap to allow a blade of sea grass or pine needle to
sneak around the strainer? Would adding a compressible gasket to
the top and bottom of the basket provide the requisite seal?

2) Why does the Volvo manual not mention maintenance on the heat
exchanger or on the turbo? From what we found, it would seem a look-
see would be appropriate at least every 500 hours.

Interested in the experience of others on these issues.

Mike Ondra
S/Y Aletes SM#240


LADY DIVINA

L. CAMERON <solarconstruction@...>
 

I OWN SUPER MARAMU 2000, YEAR 2001, HULL # 318. LOOKING FOR>
1) AMEL COMPLETE MAIN and/or MIZZEN MASTS,(without booms)
2) ELECTRIC FURLING GENOA,
3) or SPARE ELECTRIC MAIN MAST FURLING MOTOR and GENOA FURLING MOTOR.
4) ALSO USED SAILS FOR GENOA, MAIN & MIZZEN.
SINCERELY, S/Y LADY DIVINA, LYING CARIBBEAN,


---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2ยข/min or less.


Re: original rigging on maramu

Jochen Hofmann <jochen@...>
 

Hi Marc,
on our Maramu #143 (1983/84) there is a fixed "top stay" between the
main top and the mizzen top. Also, when we ordered complete new
standing rigging from Sparcraft in France about two years ago they
included this "top stay" in the shipment without even asking,so this
seems to be the standard layout.
As to the mizzen backstay ours are twin backstays running to the top
at the outer corners of the pushpit. Again Sparcraft apparently had
that on their files (or got it from Amel). I have seen some Maramus
having this configuration, but I have also seen some who have a single
backstay running to the center, but I don't know if they run to the
top or to the bottom of the pushpit. Does anyone know if Amel changed
that during the production of the "manual" Maramus ?

Regards,
Jochen, BLUE SONG, Maramu #143 (www.bluesong.de to be built soon).

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "sy melmar y" <newsgroup@...>
wrote:

hello
could anyone please tell me if originally the two masts were
interconectet by a "top stay"? on our maramu (1981) a stay is running
from the main mast top over a block/roll on the mizzen top down along
the mizzen to a point just above the block/roll of the mainsheet. since
i heard too many voices to remove it, i'm wondering if the amels put it
there.
similar question: the aftstay of the mizzen runs to a point on top of
the center pushpit or to the foot of the center pushpit? the welding
seems not to be original on our stern...
thanks,
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch


Re: original rigging on maramu

petervweston <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "sy melmar y" <newsgroup@...>
wrote:

hello
could anyone please tell me if originally the two masts were
interconectet by a "top stay"?
I was under the impression that this is called a "triatic stay" but
when I looked it up in a dictionary a triatic connected the main mast
and the fore mast. Does anyone know the correct term for a stay
connecting the main mast and the mizzen mast?

Peter Weston

Former owner of Amelia Pearl now Moon Dog (SM 248)


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator

amelforme
 

Hi Jerry,

At the AMEL Shipyard, we offer a dual Racor Filter with
manifold and vacuum gauge as an option. This allowed one to
switch to a clean filter in an emergency (they never fail in
open seas with flat water) and change the dirty one when
more convenient.

Even if an engine only burns a maximum of 6 GPH, like your
Volvo, it passes many times that amount through the
injection pump each hour to lubricate and cool the pump.
The excess is returned to the tank via the return line.

I would use a single 500 series RACOR at the minimum and
think the dual 75500 MAX2 setup is the best way to go.

Hope this helps.

Joel F. Potter,
AMEL 54, Hull # 14, HOLLIS


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator

Eric Lindholm
 

That should be more than adequate, the largest Detroit Diesels flow 100 gph. Eric 105

PFM53 <pfm53@...> wrote: Does anyone know what size Racor fuel filter/water separator is recommended
for the Volvo TMD22? I would think that the 60 GPH (227LPH) size should be
sufficient, but I haven't been able to determine the specific GPH requirements
for this engine.

Thanks

Jerry






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Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator

PFM53 <pfm53@...>
 

Does anyone know what size Racor fuel filter/water separator is recommended
for the Volvo TMD22? I would think that the 60 GPH (227LPH) size should be
sufficient, but I haven't been able to determine the specific GPH requirements
for this engine.

Thanks

Jerry