Date   

Changing Water Heater Zinc & Vacuum Bags

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Regarding Peter Pappas' saga of changing the zinc in the water heater (taking 4 hours). I did it a little differently. Cut off water and power, took off all eight bolts on the bottom. Water went into the bilge. Took off 2 straps holding the tank, picked up the tank to top of engine room while helper pulled out heating elements. Helper puts on the new zinc. I clean out the tank on dock, getting 1/2 lb of rust out. Take tank back aboard, lower into engine room, re-install the heating units and put on bolts and straps. Total time 1 hour. I left the hoses and wire all connected.

If anyone needs more space in your lockers you can try vacuum packing clothes and even sails using your vacuum cleaner). It is amazing how much space is saved. You can buy most of the bag sizes at Target but can also order the jumbo bags on the web (Space Bags). I put my mizzen ballooner (still in its bag) in the jumbo size and squeezed the 2' x 3' bag down to 5 inches thickness. For the main ballooner I took it out of the bag, folded it up and then vacuum bagged it to a thickness of about 8 inches. It can be done so easily you can do it after every use. I also vacuum packed 3 dufflebags into a very small bundle.

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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 volt to 110 Inverter

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

I put a 24 volt to 100 V under the cabinets over the crew bunk (by the engine room). Ran the wire up through the cabinet down thru the small hanging locker out into the battery box. No problem. Can't hardly see it. Only turn it on when you need it. 1000 Watts. Pure Sine Wave is brand name.
John Martin
Moon Dog
SM 248


From: "pellegrini1942" <afpellegrini@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 volt to 110 Inverter
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 14:13:58 -0000

I am considering installing a Prosine inverter, PS1000, that converts
24 volt to 110 volt power. The portable 12 volt inverter that I use
will not charge the newer bright screen laptops or certain other
devices.
Does anyone have any experience or advise on using a 24 volt to 110
volt inverter.
Regards,
Tony Pellegrini
Voyageur SM # 373

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Re: Shore power connection - Plug replacement

Craig Briggs
 

Jochen,
From personal experience, I'd strongly recommend you bite the bullet
and replace the whole thing. With the amount of corrosion in the
photograph, your on-board connector has got to be corroded, too, and
you've probably got a serious fire hazard.

If you replace everything, you'll undoubtedly get an escutcheon plate
with the new fitting, so the new paint job will not be affected.

Good luck,
Craig Briggs, Santorin #68


Fulring Boom for a Maramu

David Wallace
 

We are interested in installing a furling boom on our 1982 Maramu, which was built before Amel went to in-mast furling. We are tending toward the ProFurl Boom Furler at this point. Has any one in the group installed a furling boom on an Amel, or know of someone who has and can provide comment? I would be very ineterested to know if doing this is considered feasible, and if there are any particular issues to be aware of.

Thanks,

Dave Wallace
s/v Air Ops
Maramu #104

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Shore power connection - Plug replacement

Jochen Hofmann <jochen@...>
 

Hi all,

here's another little issue we have on board Blue Song:

If you look at the picture that I placed in the "Blue Song - Maramu
#143" album you can see that the plug from the shorepower cable has
really reached the end of its useful life. Of course all standards
have changed since this was made....

Does anyone know if (and if yes then where) I can get a replacement
plug for it. The only alternative would be to replace the on-board
connector as well and considering the beautiful new paint job that has
been done on our boat I would really like to avoid that.

Thanks in advance and fair winds,

Jochen Hofmann
S/V Blue Song


Sharp Autopilot - Manuals

Jochen Hofmann <jochen@...>
 

Hi all,

many of us sailing the seasoned Amels have this great unit onboard.
While I might one day consider replacing the Autopilot Electronics so
I can interface with the Raymarine equipment I had fitted about 2
years ago I definitely want to keep the drive unit "forever" as
nowadays I don't think units that solid are manufactured any longer.

My issue is: I do have a manual, but ONLY for the electronics. Does
anyone have a manual for the drive unit ???? And would be willing to
copy/scan/whatever it and let me have it (of course I'll cover cost
that might be involved) ???? Would feel much safer with one if we go
long-distance cruising early next year.

Also I'd like to know what kind of maintenance do you do to it, what
kind of problems did/do you experience if any.

I put a photo of the unit in the new album (Blue Song - Maramu #143) I
just created in the Pictures section.

Thanks to all and fair winds,

Jochen Hofmann
S/V Blue Song


Re: gel coat repair

Craig Briggs
 

Joe,
We've also got a 92 Santorin with a couple of nicks (from a prior
owner, of course, not us :-)

We were in La Rochelle last summer and picked up the gelcoat from
Olivier Beaute, whom you probably know of in Amel's "after service"
department. I'm sure he can ship it to you. We also picked some up in
Amel's service shop in Guadeloupe a few years ago.

This is probably the only way to guarantee a perfect match as we had
tried with a "mix-n-match" kit and it was barely passable - the factory
goop is perfect - just add the hardener catalyst, apply and then sand &
polish. You can't tell it's there.

We got three colors: hull white, deck white and rub rail brown; the
deck "faux teak" brown should be available too. By the way, we also
replaced the Amel decals on the coach roof sides that were terribly
faded - simple job that really looks great.

Cheers, Craig Briggs


gel coat repair

joseph mc donnell
 

I have a minor gel coat repair job to do on our 92 Santorin Khamsin B.
Can anyone point me in the right direction, as to where I can purchace
a small amount of gelcoat pigment for the job.
Thanks Joe McDonnell


Problem with Ocean Marine davits

Judy Rouse
 

We have a problem with Ocean Marine davits and our AB dinghy.



We cannot completely secure the dinghy in the davits. The AB dinghy
rises about 12" on the bow. This means when the bow is secure, the
stern still has about a foot to go. The davit fall lines and blocks
rise to the arm from the dinghy at a 45 degree angle per instructions.



We asked Ocean Marine about their optional stainless ratchet straps
which we heard they had supplied to another owner when he had a similar
problem. Ocean Marine seemed to get very defensive stating that they
have never supplied ratchet straps at no charge. They went on to say
the following:

Secure a line to the inside of the stern of the dinghy. Run this line
over the stern and under the dinghy. Use a trucker's hitch to
tighten and secure the line to the vertical cleat on the davit. This
cleat on the davit is in the perfect place for tying. Do the same with
another line from the point on the bow where the painter is
secured…"run this line under the dinghy and tighten to the opposite
site cleat using a trucker's hitch to tighten. It is the trucker's
hitch that makes the difference, but the fender is also needed on the
AB. If you simply tie the dinghy in bow and stern, you have no
mechanical advantage and no way to readjust if the dinghy loses air
pressure due to wind chill at sea. Therefore, the trucker's hitch is
fundamental to succeeding here."

We have an AB and followed their instructions exactly…here is what
we found and reported to them:

· We used a very large fender...11" in diameter---Not really
big enough for a tight fit when the blocks are as tight as they will go
and within 5" of one another. I am hesitant to buy a larger fender as
you know how much that will cost.

· The line that attaches to the stern and attaches with a
trucker's hitch and cleat on the davit rubs the bottom of the inboard
tube.

· The line that attaches to the bow and attaches with a
trucker's hitch and cleat on the davit rubs the bottom of the inboard
tube.

They responded to the above stating the ratchet straps usually rub
against the tubes and do not work well and "…not to blame a world
class product if you are unwilling to take some responsibility for
solving your tie in issues"



Any suggestions regarding how to secure an AB dinghy with Ocean Marine
davits would be appreciated.



Judy and Bill Rouse

S/V SECURITY SM2 #387





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Coolant loss in Volvo

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

thanks,Eric. both oil level and colour are fine.Ian


From: eric <kimberlite@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Coolant loss in Volvo
Date: Sat, 09 Dec 2006 19:36:14 -0500

Ian,

Has your crank case oil level gone up?

If it hasn't I guess you did have an airlock (probably in the water heater-
heat exchanger)

Fair Winds,

Eric





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Ian & Judy Jenkins
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:21 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [spam] [Amel Yacht Owners] Coolant loss in Volvo



We have just had a curious experience with our coolant levels. Our engine is

6 years old with about 2,000 hours. Very reliable. Last May I drained all
the coolant and filled up with fresh antifreeze, carefully following the
instructions to open the bleed nut till the coolant overflowed it etc.The
boat was then ashore till November. The coolant level remained the same.( In

my experience the coolant has never needed topping up ).
When we first used the boat this November I found thtat after about 12 hours

it needed almost a litre of coolant to be added to bring it up to the
correct level. As there was no evidence at all of a leak I surmised that
there might have been an airlock. However, this happened again about 12
hours later, though to a lesser extent ( maybe one third of a litre). Since
then we have run for about 20 hours ( mainly at low revs but also flat out
for about 30 minutes) and have suffered no losss at all.
A Volvo mechanic I spoke to in the UK told me that it was probably one of
the O rings that was`allowing the coolant to escape into the exhaust water,
hence no trace in the engine room.Try as I may to read the exploded diagram
in the parts manual and the workshop manual to fit his diagnosis I cant see
how a perished O ring would allow what he claims.From what I can see, if an
O ring went , either coolant or sea water would appear on or under the
engine, but they wouldnt mix.
My view is that the engine probably did have an airlock when I refilled
with fresh coolant and that this took a couple of goes to work its way out
of the system. My Nordahavn friend, who has a Lugger engine , tells me that
he has had a very similar experience, having to top up three times after a
change of coolant.
I would be interested to hear if anyone else has had a similar experience.
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Mar del Plata, Argentina

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TDS meters

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

TDS meters can be sourced through the web sites in my message No 2254.
The cheap model which I bought needs a little care before fitting as
they are calibrated, if I understand the instructions correctly, with
the sensing probes pushed all the way in. The problem with this is
that the correct angle to the flow is shown by two dots, one on the
fitting and one on the sensor probe and when pushed all the way in
this dot vanishes.
The solution is to use a marker pen to put a line above the dot on the
probe and another on the fitting so that it is easy to get it right.

Good luck with it, John Hollamby, SM 319


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Marine Surveyor in Antigua

koutsoukos Nikos
 

Hi i am cpt Nick.
In st.Johns Antigua ther is a U.K. P@I club That probably can help you.
PHILLIPS ,PHILLIPS @ ARCHIBALD
PO Box546, st Marys street, st John's

tel : 1 268 4620077
email :awarchibald@...

after hours : William Archibald tel .1 268 4613 604

rgds
cpt .Nick

----- Original Message -----
From: amelliahona
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 12:37 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Marine Surveyor in Antigua


Anybody know/can recommend a marine surveyor in Antigua, BWI? My boat has reached the
magic age off 5 years and the insurance company demands a survey.

Regards, Gary Silver, s/v Liahona SM 335


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Tank Refinishing

koutsoukos Nikos
 

Hallo I am Nick and owner of a kirk i am master mariner and sailing atanker at the moment in north sea ,I suggest what we use in the ships ,a heavy duty one as follows.
A good coating of a well known company is INTERNATIONAL : INTERLINE 850 (WHITE OR BUFF) PRODUCT CODE:TLA 850/A
Surface preperation :sand paper or grinding ,cleaning.
Dry film thikness (dft 125 microns about two coatings with roller),touch dry at 25deg C 5 hrs ,overcoating at same temp. min 8hrs max 30 days
Thinner GTA 420.
To avoid unpleasent odors in the water later let it dy well.

rgds
cpt.Nick

----- Original Message -----
From: anniemno1
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 4:33 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Tank Refinishing


We discovered that the fresh water tank coating is flaking on our
Mango. Has anyone refinished their fresh water tanks?

What was the process and where did you find the FDA approved resin?

Regards,

Annie and John on Annie M. (Mango #1)


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: TDS levels

Judy Rouse
 

We bought the Film-Tec membranes from Air, Water & Ice in FL; think the
cost was about $179 each. TDS meter was about $40 but don't remember
name of company. I think Gary Silver made a posting on this group site
about the Film-Tec membranes. You could try searching for that.

BTW, the first few seconds of product water tests at TDS levels
exceeding 4,000, even with our new membranes. We discard the product
water until it tests about 150 before adding any to our tank. This can
take 5 to 10 minutes before acceptable water is produced.

Judy
S/V Security
SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@..., michael grunstein
<mgrunstein2002@...> wrote:

The watermaker performance on my boat seems to be like
yours before you replaced the membranes. My watermaker
is the Dessalator D60, and I am interested to know
where you bought the membranes, the TDS meter and
their cost.
Thank you,

Michael Grunstein, S/V Yonita #345


Marine Surveyor in Antigua

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Anybody know/can recommend a marine surveyor in Antigua, BWI? My boat has reached the
magic age off 5 years and the insurance company demands a survey.

Regards, Gary Silver, s/v Liahona SM 335


Re: Water Tank Refinishing

laetitiaii <laetitiaii@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., anniemno1 <no_reply@...>
wrote:

We discovered that the fresh water tank coating is flaking on our
Mango. Has anyone refinished their fresh water tanks?

What was the process and where did you find the FDA approved resin?

Regards,

Annie and John on Annie M. (Mango #1)
A few years ago while in Martinique, I had my fuel tank ( on my other
boat) redone by a worker who was using as finishing coat, a white
epoxy finishing resin (it looks like gel coat, but it is air cured),
which he stated was also used to refinish repaired water tanks in
French charter catamarans which often have cracks after a Atlantic
crossing. I was advised this resin is commonly used to finish water
tanks in new boats. The epoxy finishing resins seems to be readily
available in Martinique from fiberglass and resin suppliers... If
necessary I could find the tel no of a friend (Dominique Rousselot)
who is a Marine Surveyor in Martinique, who possibly could give you
the name of the product. I am presently in Andalousia, Spain,
preparing for a crossing, i would have to look up for Dominique's tel
no.

Serge

Mango #51


Coolant loss in Volvo

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

We have just had a curious experience with our coolant levels. Our engine is 6 years old with about 2,000 hours. Very reliable. Last May I drained all the coolant and filled up with fresh antifreeze, carefully following the instructions to open the bleed nut till the coolant overflowed it etc.The boat was then ashore till November. The coolant level remained the same.( In my experience the coolant has never needed topping up ).
When we first used the boat this November I found thtat after about 12 hours it needed almost a litre of coolant to be added to bring it up to the correct level. As there was no evidence at all of a leak I surmised that there might have been an airlock. However, this happened again about 12 hours later, though to a lesser extent ( maybe one third of a litre). Since then we have run for about 20 hours ( mainly at low revs but also flat out for about 30 minutes) and have suffered no losss at all.
A Volvo mechanic I spoke to in the UK told me that it was probably one of the O rings that was`allowing the coolant to escape into the exhaust water, hence no trace in the engine room.Try as I may to read the exploded diagram in the parts manual and the workshop manual to fit his diagnosis I cant see how a perished O ring would allow what he claims.From what I can see, if an O ring went , either coolant or sea water would appear on or under the engine, but they wouldnt mix.
My view is that the engine probably did have an airlock when I refilled with fresh coolant and that this took a couple of goes to work its way out of the system. My Nordahavn friend, who has a Lugger engine , tells me that he has had a very similar experience, having to top up three times after a change of coolant.
I would be interested to hear if anyone else has had a similar experience.
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Mar del Plata, Argentina

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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: TDS levels

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Thanks to Mike and Judy for their comments.We are going to follow the the 1200 level that Mike suggests. Interestingly a neighbour here in Argentina on a Nordhavn 46 ( very smart ocean crossing motor boat) , a guy who is a boat builder himself, tells me that his water maker ( same membranes as Dessalator and everyone else) is designed to transfer to his tank any water under 1900 TDS, so it sems that the w/m manufacturers are undecided amongst themselves
I use a portable TDS meter and have the 60 lph w-maker with a tap on the panel in the galley.Having run the w/m a lot over the past week I am now struggling to get below 2000. I suspect that the membranes are shot but as a final attempt I am going to use the acid/detergent wash that is referred to in the dessalaotor handbook ( but without any details). My neighbour has all the necessary liquids so I am going to give it a go. I will report on progress.Fair winds, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen,SM 302, Mar del Plata


From: "Judy" <sailingjudy@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: TDS levels
Date: Sat, 02 Dec 2006 21:01:38 -0000

When and where are you taking these TDS readings? Water with
readings that high are not considered safe for human consumption. I
may be wrong, but I believe that the WHO limit is 500 and the US
standard is 300. We were getting readings of 480-495 when we stopped
using the watermaker and went to bottled water until we could obtain
replacement membranes. After replacing the membranes we get TDS
readings ranging from 97 to 160, which is very good.

Your boat may or may not have come equipped with an easily accessible
test faucet; ours did not. We installed a separate faucet at the
galley sink and diversion valves that allow us to divert the product
water into the sink until it tests and TASTES good. Then we turn the
valve and fill the water tank. We also installed another water
filter between the tank and the new faucet. We use that faucet for
our drinking water when not making water. See our photos on this
website.

Judy Rouse
S/V Security
Amel SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:

Old subject, new info sought. I have the 60 lph watermaker which
over 6
years has delivered over 70,000 litres.( Getting on for 1500 hours)
However,
armed with my new portable TDS meter I see that the water it is
now
producing has a TDS reading of 1270. You can just distinguish the
taste
against bottled water.
For comparison, the Dessalator manual says that sea water
typically has
36,000 TDS and that the watermaker should turn out water at 500
TDS. ( it
talks of filtering the water to 2%, although strictly 2% would be
closer to
720 TDS) .Our shore tap water is about 112, same as bottled water.
We cannot change our membranes until the end of the season ( we
are
cruising in Argentina and Southern Chile again) so these questions
arise:
Assuming we continue to get a reading of about 1270 ( ie about 3.6%
residue
rather than 2%)
1. What are the safe levels for drinking the water by itself? (It
tastes
ok at the moment and I ususlly mix it 50-50 with fruit juice)
2. Should there be any doubts that for all other purposes this
level is
OK? I have no reason to think that for cooking and showering this
level is
easily refined enough and I would be surprised if it was at all
troubling to
the washing machine or dishwasher. However, I would be interested
in anyone
elses view.
3. Assuming that there are no problems at the present level of
1270 TDS,
what level would be a cause of concern for drinking?
Thankfully where we are going the heavens deliver ample supplies
of water
so we have no real concerns in the short term. I am sure I can
remember how
to rig up a water catchment system.
As always,any views on the subject would be most welcome.
Fair winds and lotsa rain, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM
302,
Argentina

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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: TDS levels

michael grunstein <mgrunstein2002@...>
 

The watermaker performance on my boat seems to be like
yours before you replaced the membranes. My watermaker
is the Dessalator D60, and I am interested to know
where you bought the membranes, the TDS meter and
their cost.
Thank you,

Michael Grunstein, S/V Yonita #345



--- Judy <sailingjudy@...> wrote:

When and where are you taking these TDS readings?
Water with
readings that high are not considered safe for human
consumption. I
may be wrong, but I believe that the WHO limit is
500 and the US
standard is 300. We were getting readings of
480-495 when we stopped
using the watermaker and went to bottled water until
we could obtain
replacement membranes. After replacing the
membranes we get TDS
readings ranging from 97 to 160, which is very good.

Your boat may or may not have come equipped with an
easily accessible
test faucet; ours did not. We installed a separate
faucet at the
galley sink and diversion valves that allow us to
divert the product
water into the sink until it tests and TASTES good.
Then we turn the
valve and fill the water tank. We also installed
another water
filter between the tank and the new faucet. We use
that faucet for
our drinking water when not making water. See our
photos on this
website.

Judy Rouse
S/V Security
Amel SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Ian & Judy
Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:

Old subject, new info sought. I have the 60 lph
watermaker which
over 6
years has delivered over 70,000 litres.( Getting
on for 1500 hours)
However,
armed with my new portable TDS meter I see that
the water it is
now
producing has a TDS reading of 1270. You can just
distinguish the
taste
against bottled water.
For comparison, the Dessalator manual says that
sea water
typically has
36,000 TDS and that the watermaker should turn out
water at 500
TDS. ( it
talks of filtering the water to 2%, although
strictly 2% would be
closer to
720 TDS) .Our shore tap water is about 112, same
as bottled water.
We cannot change our membranes until the end of
the season ( we
are
cruising in Argentina and Southern Chile again) so
these questions
arise:
Assuming we continue to get a reading of about
1270 ( ie about 3.6%
residue
rather than 2%)
1. What are the safe levels for drinking the
water by itself? (It
tastes
ok at the moment and I ususlly mix it 50-50 with
fruit juice)
2. Should there be any doubts that for all other
purposes this
level is
OK? I have no reason to think that for cooking and
showering this
level is
easily refined enough and I would be surprised if
it was at all
troubling to
the washing machine or dishwasher. However, I
would be interested
in anyone
elses view.
3. Assuming that there are no problems at the
present level of
1270 TDS,
what level would be a cause of concern for
drinking?
Thankfully where we are going the heavens
deliver ample supplies
of water
so we have no real concerns in the short term. I
am sure I can
remember how
to rig up a water catchment system.
As always,any views on the subject would be
most welcome.
Fair winds and lotsa rain, Ian and Judy,
Pen Azen, SM
302,
Argentina

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Re: New Amel 54

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Congratulations Peter:

I saw Joel's 54 at the Annapolis Boat Show. It is a beautiful boat and Amel/Joel
have done an excellent job of improving the boat over the 53, which I think we
all agree is a spectacular boat.

Just one suggestion. Get a watermaker made by someone other than Dessalator
if possible. My understanding is that the current version of the Dessalator
watermaker still doesn't have a functional salinity testing system except for a
tap to taste the water manually. Thus, if your membranes fail half way through
a 2 hour water making session you will put an hours worth off sea water into
your fresh water tank EVEN if you took the precaution of tasting the water at
the start of production.

Now, short of the non-forthrightness of Dessalator on this issue, another way
you can tackle this problem is to install an electronic-in-line-continuous salinity
meter with and audio/visual alarm so that the minute salt water starts going
into you tanks you will know it and be able to preserve your fresh water supply.

If you wonder how I know this see my previous many posts on this issue as I
tried to uncover the deceit that Dessalator practiced on Amel and those of
us who purchased Amels by installing a sham salinity testing circuit.

Regards,

Gary Silver Amel SM 335

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "peterhturner" <peterhturner@...> wrote:

Hi, I am the owner of a SM 2000 No 403 "Asolare", and I have been
absolutly delighted with her for the 3 1/2 years I have owned her.
I have a new Amel 54 being delivered in June 2007 when I will sell my
SM. My question is to Amel 54 owners as I would very much like to have
thier recommendations as to the selection of the miriad of options
available. I know this is a very "open" question but I would like to
know of options that owners have found very useful, those that are not
on the options list (bearing mind that Amel, of course, make the
perfect yacht!) and perhaps those that have not lived up to
expectations!
Thank you in anticipation of your kind comments,
Peter Turner