Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos

Steve Constantine <maramu_49@...>
 

Gary,

I may have a possible answer to your question about the higher EC reading when the pressure is below the green range.

According to Rod Boreham, the membranes are not perfectly cylindrical. They have a slightly larger diameter in the center than at the two ends. The reason for this is to allow for distortion when the pressure is applied.

The membranes are not constructed by rolling a square sheet of material from one side to the other. They are rolled corner to corner. This creates angular seams along the length of the tube. They are actually rolled with enough slack to account for a perfect fit under pressure. If you run the water maker below the prescribed pressure, you are squeezing salt water past the unsealed seams. In other words, they have to be fully pressurized to seal properly. The good news is that your EC appears to be finding it.

Rod was quite emphatic that the Dessalator should only be operated entirely within the green zone. Any higher or lower will result in problems. You should check with Rod to be sure though. I think I interpretted his recommendations correctly, but one never knows.

It may also be due to something else entirely, but this seemed to make sense to me.

Regards,

Steve and Donna. SM#340 Summer Love



amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:
24 Feb 2006
Eric:

I purchased 3/8 inch quick connect fittings at Home Depot (white plastic, push together
fitting that are good to 100 psi) and cut the blue 10 mm product water line. There is
virtually no pressure on this line . The sensor for the EC system that I mentioned
previously plumbs into a 1/2 in pipe thread fitting. I bought a 1/2 inch PVC pipe "T"
fitting, and plumbed it with the quick connects. So the sensor is just immersed in the
product water as it flows by. I'll post photos after my next trip. I took 220 volt 50 Hertz
Power from the circuit breaker for the water maker.

I have noticed that upon startup the EC briefly goes to somewhere above 2000
microsiemens but then within 30 seconds it comes down to about 350. If you run the
watermaker below green range pressure the EC is actually higher than if run in the normal
operating range. I don't quite understand that but it is consistent. I inquired of the Wafer
Fire and Ice people that I bought my membranes from and they tell me that this is normal.
They call it TDS creep. Evidently when the system is shut down the high TDS on the sea
water side draws the product water back across the membrane by osmotic pressure. This
then concentrates the solulte in the product water side as more and more water is drawn
back across the membranes. The longer the system sits idle the more TDS creep there is.
So the initial minute or two of product water will be high in TDS (EC). Perhaps that is why
the Dessalator system had a timer. I have spent hours corresponding with Dessalator and
they will not provide me with schematics or a logic diagram for the system. I plan to take
detail digital photos of the circuit boards next month when I get on the boat and reverse
engineer the electronics. It doesn't appear to be that complicated. Dessalator says that
they do have spare logic circuit boards for sale and will install one if I ship my system to
them but they at the same time make no guarantees that the system will behave as
advertised even with a new board installed. This is about the goofiest company policy that
I have ever run across.

Regards, Gary


Gary,
How did you hook the salinity sensor into the watermaker output?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





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Prop Speed & RPM

John McDougall <j.c.mcdougall@...>
 

Additional to last message, it may be of interest that while the
SM2000 was supplied with an Autoprop as standard equipment, together
with a fixed blade prop as a spare, the new 54 is supplied with a
fixed blade prop only. The Autoprop is an extra cost option.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Speed vs. RPM

John McDougall <j.c.mcdougall@...>
 

Hi Claude & others
My SM2000 no 330 had the Yanmar/Autoprop combination and max revs
would frequently drop to about 1700. This was always cured by
cleaning the prop. My berth is in Antibes and the rate of marine
growth seems very high there for a reason we needn't go into but
let's say the harbour fish are large and fat. Quite expensive as I
don't dive (and certainly wouldn't in the marina!). The prop was
subject to a recall by Bruntons and in May 2004 I had Amel fit the
spare fixed blade prop. This prop is still fitted.

It is difficult to compare the performance of the fixed prop against
the Autoprop but I would say the difference is so slight as to be
unoticeable without making a test under identical conditions. I
agree that the Autoprop is extremely sensitive to fouling and I have
specified a fixed blade prop on my "54" to be delivered at the end
of this month.

Finally, before the fixed prop was fitted I had it treated with
PROPSPEED a silcone based propellor antifouling which works by means
of producing a slippery surface that marine gowth cannot adhere to.
The result was fantastic - the prop was still clean a year later as
opposed needing to be cleaned every couple of months in summer.
Propspeed is very expensive but I believe Seajet Pellerclean to be a
similar product and this has just been rated as the best in March
Yachting Monthly and Motor Boat
magazines. Has anyone tried it?
John McDougall


-- In amelyachtowners@..., Claude Roessiger
<nearlynothing@...> wrote:

I have had no end of trouble with this combination.
Amel aren't playing this straight with us. Every owner
I have met with the Volvo-Auto prop combination has
similar woes. I think the source of the trouble is the
prop. In reverse, do you get 3500 RPM? If so, it says
a lot.
This darned prop (and I have had unsatisfactory
exchanges with Bruntons, the maker) is unbelievably
sensitive. Unless it's polished to perfection, it
seems to just not give power. Expensive as it is, I
think to change it.
At full power the SM ought to give you 8 kts +.
I have had similar woes in waves as you describe, no
power, no speed.
The Volvo turbo-diesel is itself less torquey than a
straight old diesel as in the old Maramus,
bullet-proof engines.
This said, an 80 hp engine should do the job. I think
the prop is suspect.
If anyone has made a prop change successfully, it
would be good to know.
Thanks,
Claude Roessiger


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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Speed vs. RPM

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Hi Claude and others. Sorry to read of your experience. I dont know if my Bruntons Autoprop is different to yours ( Pen Azen is June 2000, no 302, standard Volvo/Perkins engine) but after nearly 2,000 engine hours, usually cruising at 1900 revs with a burst of 2,800 for about ten minutes every 6 or so hours, I cen happily get 8.6-8.8 knots on a calm day with a full cruising load aboard.
Twice I have had the revs stick at about 2200 in gear even though I was getting 2800 in neutral. On each occasion the boat had just been put in the water after several months ashore. All I did on each occasion was to keep revving up and down for ten minutes or so and the thing cleared itself.
So far, performance hasnt been affected by small amounts of sealife. On one occasion, in UK waters, I couldnt exceed 7 knots at full throttle and on diving I found the prop absolutely covered in barnacles between one and two centimeters across. I was amazed that it functioned at all.
I confess that I have never seen how high I can rev astern, but going ahead I have found nothing to complain of.
Bruntons claim that you should think of changing the bearings after 1000 hours or so. I think this depends on revs and the condition of the water you sail in. I will do it next time the boat is out of the water. Fair winds, Ian and Judy Jenkins, Pen Azen, Rio de Janeiro ( just about the dirtiest water you can find!)

From: Claude Roessiger <nearlynothing@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Speed vs. RPM
Date: Wed, 8 Mar 2006 09:10:49 -0800 (PST)

I have had no end of trouble with this combination.
Amel aren't playing this straight with us. Every owner
I have met with the Volvo-Auto prop combination has
similar woes. I think the source of the trouble is the
prop. In reverse, do you get 3500 RPM? If so, it says
a lot.
This darned prop (and I have had unsatisfactory
exchanges with Bruntons, the maker) is unbelievably
sensitive. Unless it's polished to perfection, it
seems to just not give power. Expensive as it is, I
think to change it.
At full power the SM ought to give you 8 kts +.
I have had similar woes in waves as you describe, no
power, no speed.
The Volvo turbo-diesel is itself less torquey than a
straight old diesel as in the old Maramus,
bullet-proof engines.
This said, an 80 hp engine should do the job. I think
the prop is suspect.
If anyone has made a prop change successfully, it
would be good to know.
Thanks,
Claude Roessiger


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S M half model

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Hello, I just posted a picture of a SM half model on the Amel site under "moondog". Its trully beautiful. It's 2 feet long,made of about 5 different types of wood,has a brass prop.alluminum winches,hatches,cockpit and is made to scale." It is worthy of the wall." It cost a little under $1,500 delivered. It mounts with 2 small bolts thru the wall, and it won"t leave a shadow on the wall if you ever take it down,like a big expensive painting will do. Any one interested I have info. John "Moondog" sm248

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Amel KIRK - Deck plan

felisberto_almeida <felisberto_almeida@...>
 

I need a deck plan, for my Amel Kirk, Construction number:63 from 1972.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Anchor Chain

Steve Leeds
 

Hi Mike,
Contact IMTRA Corp (508) 995 7000, the US distributor of the LOFRENS windlass and they will give you info for sizing chain to the anchor windlass. They can sell you a replacement gypsy in a different size if needed (not terribly expensive).

I own a Sharki, a much smaller AMEL, so I will not address the question of size for you. I use 5/16 high tensile and have 280 feet with oversize links on each end to allow reasonably sized shackles. The high tensile is used to reduce weight forward but has several negatives. It is more prone to rust than lower carbon chain and the lighter weight reduces the catenary effect of the chain. Many Australians (who tend to use lots of very heavy chain) have told us that the only reason to have an anchor is so you can find the end of the chain! (they also tend to use large anchors!)

I would suggest you not consider using any rope on your primary rode if you are going to the South Pacific as you will be anchoring around and on coral most of the time and rope rode will not survive. I also suggest you consider more rode rather than less as anchoring depths will often be 40 to 60 feet and the holding will occasionally be so poor that you will need to put out extra scope. The deepest we ever anchored (I believe it was on the east end of Tahiti) was in 100 feet of water. We had about 3/1 scope (with all of our rode out) and could not possibly back down on our anchor. We were also surrounded by reef. We had a rather nervous night!

In the Caribbean, you will generally be anchored in sand or mud but the depths will sometimes be deep. However, he issue in the Caribbean is the crowded anchorages which will often require reduced scope which makes rope rodes a problem.

I have not seen metric chain in the US. It is available in the Caribbean.

Good luck!

Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
AMEL Sharki #121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service
Fort Lauderdale, Fl

mike_ondra <mondra@...> wrote:
Having purchased "Drifter" SM #240 in October we are having great fun
exploring and beginning to understand some of the myriad systems on
board. Recently checking the anchor chain locker for the first time
from the fore stateroom, we found a mound of rusted chain requiring a
hammer to break it up. Me-thinks it time to replace the chain.

Being in the US, metric chain seems unatainable, hence a potential
incompatibility with the windlass gypsy. Anyway, looking for
suggestions, knowing that there are probably as many opinions about
anchoring as there are skippers.

1) Recommended size/type chain. Thinking 3/8" G40 or G70, but can a
replacement gypsy for that size chain be found for this windlass.
Alternatively, is metric chain available in the US at palatable prices.

2) Recommended rode configuration. Thinking 100-150' of chain and
100'-150' of rope. Planning cruising in Caribbean and South Pacific.

Thanks for any help with this,

Mike Ondra
"Drifter" SM #240








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Anchor Chain

mike_ondra <mondra@...>
 

Having purchased "Drifter" SM #240 in October we are having great fun
exploring and beginning to understand some of the myriad systems on
board. Recently checking the anchor chain locker for the first time
from the fore stateroom, we found a mound of rusted chain requiring a
hammer to break it up. Me-thinks it time to replace the chain.

Being in the US, metric chain seems unatainable, hence a potential
incompatibility with the windlass gypsy. Anyway, looking for
suggestions, knowing that there are probably as many opinions about
anchoring as there are skippers.

1) Recommended size/type chain. Thinking 3/8" G40 or G70, but can a
replacement gypsy for that size chain be found for this windlass.
Alternatively, is metric chain available in the US at palatable prices.

2) Recommended rode configuration. Thinking 100-150' of chain and
100'-150' of rope. Planning cruising in Caribbean and South Pacific.

Thanks for any help with this,

Mike Ondra
"Drifter" SM #240


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Some thoughts on Volvo-Autoprop issues

dlm48@...
 

In a message dated 09/03/2006 16:47:03 GMT Standard Time,
no_reply@... writes:

Hi,

A couple of years ago, I posted my experiences with the Volvo RPM
issue, but I'll repeat them now to address the recent questions. I
have SM #195, 1997 model, with Volvo Penta TMD22 and Autoprop.

In July 2002, while in the Azores, I found the engine not giving
me full power. I had the injectors cleaned, but still could not get
over 2100 RPM. Cleaning the prop did not help (I have a Brownie's
Third Lung, and spent a lot of time underwater cleaning the prop to a
fine polish!)

In September, in Lanzarote, I removed the turbocharger (very easy)
and took it to a diesel car mechanic in Arecife. He cleaned the
substantial carbon deposits from the "hot" side (the turbine that is
powered by exhaust gases). Cost was 60 Euros. I immediately was
able to get 2800 RPM underway, and speed increased from 7 kts. to 8.6
kts.

My theory is that substantial motoring at 2000 RPM or less (to get
good fuel economy) leads to this problem. The turbo is designed to
boost power at high RPMs, and the engine needs to be run at full
power from time to time to use the turbo and "burn off" the carbon in
the turbine. Amel recommended this to me when I bought the boat, but
the thought of running the engine flat out for 5 minutes at a time
scared me. I now do it at least once a month, and still get full
power, even with a dirty prop.

For those of you with Volvos not getting full power or full RPMs,
clean your props, but also clean your turbos. It's very easy to do,
and I'm sure you'll see results.

Roy on Excalibur SM #195



A turbo engine is a very bad idea on a displacement boat that 'generally'
motors at a steady speed somewhere close to the mid point of its RPM range - it
is just a con to get you a lighter engine for the same catalogued Horse
Power - this having a Turbo engine maybe ok on fast planing boats that runs at a
much higher part of the available RPM range but it does not seem to work on
sailing boats.

Volvos small Turbo range 2003T etc were a complete and total disaster.

Of course we are all HP mad nowadays - i see Beneteau are putting in 100HP
engines to their new 50 footer now - i remember sailing a 45 foot boat with 8
HP and we seemed to manage fine.

regards

David


Some thoughts on Volvo-Autoprop issues

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
 

Hi,

A couple of years ago, I posted my experiences with the Volvo RPM
issue, but I'll repeat them now to address the recent questions. I
have SM #195, 1997 model, with Volvo Penta TMD22 and Autoprop.

In July 2002, while in the Azores, I found the engine not giving
me full power. I had the injectors cleaned, but still could not get
over 2100 RPM. Cleaning the prop did not help (I have a Brownie's
Third Lung, and spent a lot of time underwater cleaning the prop to a
fine polish!)

In September, in Lanzarote, I removed the turbocharger (very easy)
and took it to a diesel car mechanic in Arecife. He cleaned the
substantial carbon deposits from the "hot" side (the turbine that is
powered by exhaust gases). Cost was 60 Euros. I immediately was
able to get 2800 RPM underway, and speed increased from 7 kts. to 8.6
kts.

My theory is that substantial motoring at 2000 RPM or less (to get
good fuel economy) leads to this problem. The turbo is designed to
boost power at high RPMs, and the engine needs to be run at full
power from time to time to use the turbo and "burn off" the carbon in
the turbine. Amel recommended this to me when I bought the boat, but
the thought of running the engine flat out for 5 minutes at a time
scared me. I now do it at least once a month, and still get full
power, even with a dirty prop.

For those of you with Volvos not getting full power or full RPMs,
clean your props, but also clean your turbos. It's very easy to do,
and I'm sure you'll see results.

Roy on Excalibur SM #195


Re: Amel 54 pictures

Ag Av8ter
 

-David,

Thanks for the pics!! One thing for sure, I want those davits!!!!!
My wife also thought the aft cabin was finally "right".

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN SM #266


-- In amelyachtowners@..., "David" <dlm48@...> wrote:

hi,

just posted some pics of the Amel 54 pics i took at last years
Southampton Boat Show

these are small pics if anyone wants/needs the big versions
contact me
directly

regards

David


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Speed vs. RPM

Ag Av8ter
 

Hello Claude,
I spoke with a man in Ft. Lauderdale when I had our boat hauled out
for her survey. He owns an older Amel, not sure what model. He
suggested that as long as the boat was out of the water, that I
apply "some stuff" (I do not remember what it is called)> Evidently
it is a coating or film that goes on a squeaky clean prop an seals
it. Thus it is less apt to fouling and easier to clean when
fouled. I am an aviator, and there are "tapes" to cover the leading
edges of the wing and prop to accomplish this same thing. And for
rotorcraft it also reduces the leading edge errosion. When I get
back to my boat, in just a few days, I will try the full astern to
see what kind of RPM she will turn. In my particular case I am
convinced that the boat is over pitched, and that I am not getting
optimum performance from the turbo. (Low RPM, low to ineffective
turbine speed, thus increasing coking or carbon build up)

Tony Gray
WORLD CITIZEN SM #266


--- In amelyachtowners@..., Claude Roessiger
<nearlynothing@...> wrote:

I have had no end of trouble with this combination.
Amel aren't playing this straight with us. Every owner
I have met with the Volvo-Auto prop combination has
similar woes. I think the source of the trouble is the
prop. In reverse, do you get 3500 RPM? If so, it says
a lot.
This darned prop (and I have had unsatisfactory
exchanges with Bruntons, the maker) is unbelievably
sensitive. Unless it's polished to perfection, it
seems to just not give power. Expensive as it is, I
think to change it.
At full power the SM ought to give you 8 kts +.
I have had similar woes in waves as you describe, no
power, no speed.
The Volvo turbo-diesel is itself less torquey than a
straight old diesel as in the old Maramus,
bullet-proof engines.
This said, an 80 hp engine should do the job. I think
the prop is suspect.
If anyone has made a prop change successfully, it
would be good to know.
Thanks,
Claude Roessiger


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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Speed vs. RPM

Ag Av8ter
 

Hello Claude,
I spoke with a man in Ft. Lauderdale when I had our boat hauled out
for her survey. He owns an older Amel, not sure what model. He
suggested that as long as the boat was out of the water, that I
apply "some stuff" (I do not remember what it is called)> Evidently
it is a coating or film that goes on a squeaky clean prop an seals
it. Thus it is less apt to fouling and easier to clean when
fouled. I am an aviator, and there are "tapes" to cover the leading
edges of the wing and prop to accomplish this same thing. And for
rotorcraft it also reduces the leading edge errosion. When I get
back to my boat, in just a few days, I will try the full astern to
see what kind of RPM she will turn. In my particular case I am
convinced that the boat is over pitched, and that I am not getting
optimum performance from the turbo. (Low RPM, low to ineffective
turbine speed, thus increasing coking or carbon build up)

Tony Gray
WORLD CITIZEN SM #266


--- In amelyachtowners@..., Claude Roessiger
<nearlynothing@...> wrote:

I have had no end of trouble with this combination.
Amel aren't playing this straight with us. Every owner
I have met with the Volvo-Auto prop combination has
similar woes. I think the source of the trouble is the
prop. In reverse, do you get 3500 RPM? If so, it says
a lot.
This darned prop (and I have had unsatisfactory
exchanges with Bruntons, the maker) is unbelievably
sensitive. Unless it's polished to perfection, it
seems to just not give power. Expensive as it is, I
think to change it.
At full power the SM ought to give you 8 kts +.
I have had similar woes in waves as you describe, no
power, no speed.
The Volvo turbo-diesel is itself less torquey than a
straight old diesel as in the old Maramus,
bullet-proof engines.
This said, an 80 hp engine should do the job. I think
the prop is suspect.
If anyone has made a prop change successfully, it
would be good to know.
Thanks,
Claude Roessiger


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Speed vs. RPM

Claude Roessiger <nearlynothing@...>
 

I have had no end of trouble with this combination.
Amel aren't playing this straight with us. Every owner
I have met with the Volvo-Auto prop combination has
similar woes. I think the source of the trouble is the
prop. In reverse, do you get 3500 RPM? If so, it says
a lot.
This darned prop (and I have had unsatisfactory
exchanges with Bruntons, the maker) is unbelievably
sensitive. Unless it's polished to perfection, it
seems to just not give power. Expensive as it is, I
think to change it.
At full power the SM ought to give you 8 kts +.
I have had similar woes in waves as you describe, no
power, no speed.
The Volvo turbo-diesel is itself less torquey than a
straight old diesel as in the old Maramus,
bullet-proof engines.
This said, an 80 hp engine should do the job. I think
the prop is suspect.
If anyone has made a prop change successfully, it
would be good to know.
Thanks,
Claude Roessiger


__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Yet another way of dealing w/ fuel

Ag Av8ter
 

There was not long ago a SM2000 that was near us in Trellis Bay. I
can not remember her name. Her skipper was really a neat guy and
showed me little "Amel" things on my boat. What he did as a way of
providing clean fuel in an "all of a sudden got dirty fuel situation"
was to have another fuel line added to the after tank inspection
cover. Just a tube welded in place that is "several" inches from the
bottom of the tank. The "new" line is tee'd to the original and has
two block valves. This gives him the option of using the original
Amel fuel supply, or picking the fuel up away from the bottom of the
tank at his option.

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN SM #266


Fuel Pre-Filter System & Tank Questions

eric freedman
 

Gary,
There ate 3 or 4 baffles in the tank.

The Racor number for the pre diesel filter is INFDW51125 the filter head is
INFDH 12500
This is a 25 Micron filter 5" in diameter and 11" length. It takes a Jabsco
50 liter per minute vane pump with 1" ports. - This idea came from Ian
Jenkins.

My pre filter works as follows;
There is a "y" valve just below the fill cap in the aft starboard cockpit
locker. Straight down position goes to the tank. I only use that position
for the dipstick.
With the valve turned sideways the fuel drops down to the Jabsco pump
mounted directly on the aft engine room bulkhead. From there it runs into
the Racor filter then up to an elbow welded in the aft inspection port of
the fuel tank. I also had a buzzer added to the system to remind me that the
pump is running.
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 10:08 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fuel Pre-Filter System & Tank Questions

Eric:

How many baffels are in the fuel tank (600 liter size tank)?

Can you describe in more detail how your fuel pre-filter is plumbed, what
type of pump you
have installed etc. I looked at the picture but it isn't clear to me how
it flows from the fuel
filler port into the tank.

Thanks (Tanks) , Gary






Yahoo! Groups Links


Sea Cow Bay, Tortola, BVI Depths

Judy Rouse <judyrouse@...>
 

Hi Gary,

Love all that detail.
Thanks much.

Judy

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 8:55 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sea Cow Bay, Tortola, BVI Depths

Hi Judy:

I kept my boat at Manuel Reef Marina from Dec 2004 to June 2004 and it has
been there again since November of 2005. Jim Woods is the manager and a
knowledgeable Amel guy. <snip>


Fuel Pre-Filter System & Tank Questions

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Eric:

How many baffels are in the fuel tank (600 liter size tank)?

Can you describe in more detail how your fuel pre-filter is plumbed, what type of pump you
have installed etc. I looked at the picture but it isn't clear to me how it flows from the fuel
filler port into the tank.

Thanks (Tanks) , Gary


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fuel polishing

eric freedman
 

The operative word is TANK and not Yank

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of eric
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 9:54 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Fuel polishing

Gary,
There is nothing behind the valve except the white plastic screen.
You will need a VERY thin wrench to disconnect the shut off valve from the
fuel pipe.
We used to call that type of wrench a tappet wrench. I could only get it (as
it is metric) from McMaster Carr. I believe that our filters stay so clean
as the fuel is drawn off the bottom of the tank. Thus, you never get a
biology experiment growing in your yank- unlike US boats that have a pickup
tube and allow stuff to build up in the tank.

With careful use of a soft copper pipe as your pickup tube on the "tank
vacuum" you can get to almost all of the tank from the forward inspection
port as there are holes very low in the baffles that allow the pipe to snake
into the other chambers.

I have attached a pix of the Racor system used to pre filter the fuel.
Mine is identical to this one from Ian & Judy Jenkins amel Pen Azen.


Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Tuesday, March 07, 2006 9:37 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Speed vs. RPM

Great idea Eric. I really hadn't thought of doing this my self but it
sounds rather straight
forward. Do you know if there is a stand-pipe of some sort that sticks up
inside the tank
at the bottom of the tank where the fuel outlet goes to the shut off valve?
I have been
careful with all the fuel I have put in my tank but even so I am surprised
at how little
shows up in my Racor filters and wonder if there is time bomb waiting to go
off with
retained material in the bottom of the tank.


Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


Thanks, Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Judy,
The fuel polishing is very simple and can be done with a 500-turbine Racor
filter, an electric transfer pump some fuel hose and 3 feet of copper
tubing. You make a vacuum cleaner gadget with this, remove the inspection
ports and vacuum away.
We also had a 100gpm Racor filter and a 13 gpm fuel transfer pump added to
our fuel system and filter the fuel before it goes into the tank.

I have polished my tanks for the last 10 years myself.

There is also a screen at the bottom of the tank that is accessible only
by
removing the shut off valve at the bottom of the tank. It is very similar
material as the screens in the shower drains.
This is where you will get a clog and can not be cleaned by polishing the
tank.
Of course the tank has to be empty to do this.


Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite






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Re: Fuel polishing

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Thanks Eric.,

Gary