Date   

Painting Props--is ignorance bliss?

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Is there a reason why props should not be painted? I first painted a prop when I bought a Maramu ,( fixed blades)in Majorca ten years ago where, left unpainted, a prop was quickly covered in concrete like secretions. As far as I could tell every boat there painted their prop. I used the same paint as I put on the bottom, Internationals top cruising mixture. Did so for 6 years. No problems.
On our SM I have followed suit.Used Jotun ( unimpresed by its antifouling proerties but it stayed on the prop OK). Then used some Hempel picked up in Panama ( the last ,alas,of that wonderful old stuff where all marine life within 20 meters quietly expires) and now on to Internationals top racing mixture ( Micron Optima?) bought in Chile at a price that will bring tears to your eyes...about US$50 per gallon. Thank God for the Chilean Armada ( navy) which insists that the International office in Valparaiso stocks a few tins for its two ancient racing boats because otherwise there is no market here for such gofaster stuff.
I have always applied a couple of coats of theses various antifoulings to my props, both fixed and Autoprop.I have made sure that the surface was reasonably clean before painting but not shiny clean. The paints have all stuck OK and done their jobs in water temperatures varying from Tropical to glacial. Since the boat was launched in June 2000 we have done about 20,000 miles with about 1400 hours motoring.
Am I missing something? Is there a reason either not to paint or alternatively to use only some hifalutin and hipriced special prop paint?
Heres hoping there isnt! Happy New Year! Ian and Judy Jenkins, SM 302, Pen Azen, Puerto Montt, Chile


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: watermaker spring commissioning

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Hi Mark, Regarding flushing your waterr maker after the lay up period. Yes, chlorine does dissapate in your tank after a few months. To be on the safe side order a chlorine tester from Hach co. 800-2274224. $35.00. In as much as you only have to flush the unit for 5 minutes, it may be just as easy to buy about 3 or 4 gallons of distilled water from the grocery store, disconnect the intake hose, put it in a bucket full of the water and turn on the unit. No problem !!!
John "Moon Dog" sm248
From: rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: watermaker spring commissioning
Date: Fri, 31 Dec 2004 20:24:16 -0000


I would suggest buying a water filter housing from Sears or a similar
source, inserting an activated charcoal filter, and using that
whenever you fill your water tank from shore sources. Put it in line
in your water hose. Then your water tank won't have any chlorine in
it. The advantage is that whenever you flush your watermaker it will
be with non-chlorinated water, and the membranes will last longer.
Also, your water will taste better. The downside is that things are
more likely to grow in your tank, so clean it out at least every six
months with a good dose of chlorine, then dump the water. DON'T use
it to flush your watermaker, it will kill the membranes.
The alternative is to find a way to fit a charcoal filter in line in
the flush water for the watermaker. I haven't figured out how to do
that. I wish AMEL did that in their installation...
Roy

--- In amelyachtowners@..., markmpitt <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

I pickled my watermaker and added food-grade anti-freeze for the
winter. If my town's water may be chlorinated, how should I flush
the
watermaker in the spring without harming the membrane? Does letting
town water sit in the tank for a few day dissipate any chlorine? I
see that Spectra and some other watermaker companies ship their
units
with a activated carbon filter in the flush cycle to remove
chlorine.

Mark Pitt
ASM #419 "Sabbatical III"

_________________________________________________________________
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Water tank cleaning

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
 

Eric's posting on cleaning water tanks and hoses is excellent and
thorough. We also use our charcoal filter every time we fill the
water tank, ensuring that there is no chlorine in the tank,
and "shock treat" it twice a year with a good dose of bleach.
The other thing you can do, especially if you are a bit obsessive
about clean water tanks, is to remove the access plates to the water
tank, located on the cabin sole, and clean the tank out by hand. On
the Maramu, this was very easy, as the access plates were all easy to
get to. On the SM, only one is easily accessible, the one under the
galley floor. The other ones require some disassembly. One is under
the seat fridge/freezer (aft seat of dinette), the other one under
the galley (under the sink in my boat, probably under the fridge on
the SM 2000!!). Look on the boat plans to see where they are. They
are easy to remove (once you find them) and they give access to the
entire water tank. We open them up every couple of years and give
the tank a thorough scrubbing. For those unwilling to remove
furniture, at least open the one under the galley floor, to see what
your tank looks like. I'm sure a good chlorine dose will do a fine
job on all that grows down there.

Happy drinking!

Roy Benveniste
SM Excalibur #195


cleaning water tank

eric freedman
 

Here is some info I received about cleaning water tanks,

Fair winds,

Eric Freedman

Sm 376 Kimberlite



WATER TANK

Although most people think only in terms of the tank, the plumbing is
actually the source of most foul water, because the molds, mildew, fungi and
bacteria which cause it thrive in damp dark places, not under water. Many
people-and even some boat manufacturers-believe that keeping the tanks empty
reduce the problem, but an empty water tank only provides another damp dark
home for those "critters."

There are all kinds of products sold that claim to keep onboard water fresh,
but all that's really necessary is an annual or in especially warm climates,
semi-annual recommissioning of the entire system-tank and plumbing. The
following recommendations conform to section 10.8 in the A-1 192 code
covering electrical, plumbing, and heating of recreational vehicles. The
solution is approved and recommended by competent health officials. It may
be used in a new system a used one that has not been used for a period of
time, or one that may have been contaminated. It's safe to use in tanks made
of any material:

Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it
on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.

Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed
line; however the first two buckets of ice-the bucket generated during
recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded.

1. Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz)
Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ). With
tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for
each 5 gallons of tank capacity.

2. Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain
cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not
turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the
solution in the lines

3. Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.

4 Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a
while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets,
because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with
fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat.

5. To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a
solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this
solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.

6. Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill
the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.

People have expressed concern about using this method to recommissioning
aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it's effects are are
cumulative. So the effect of an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment" is
negligible compared to the cumulative effect of holding chlorinated city
water in the tank for years. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to mix the total
amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before putting it into either a
stainless or aluminum tank.

People have also expressed concern about the potential damage to rubber and
neoprene water pump parts. Again-the cumulative effect of carrying
chlorinated water is far more damaging over time than the occasional "shock
treatment." And it's that cumulative effect that makes it a VERY bad idea to
add a little bleach to each fill. Not only does it damage the system, but
unless you add enough to make your water taste and smell like a laundry,
it's not enough to do any good. Even if it were, any "purifying" properties
in chlorine evaporate within 24 hours, leaving behind only the corrosive
properties.

An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions
is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as
good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to
improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not
a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that filters require regular
inspection and cleaning or replacement.

To keep the water system cleaner longer, use your fresh water...keep water
flowing through system. The molds, fungi, and bacteria only start to grow in
hoses that aren't being used. Before filling the tank each time, always let
the dock water run for at least 15 minutes first...the same critters that
like the lines on your boat LOVE the dock supply line and your hose that sit
in the warm sun, and you certainly don't want to transfer water that's been
sitting in the dock supply line to your boat's system. So let the water run
long enough to flush out all the water that's been standing in them so that
what goes into your boat is coming straight from the water main.


Re: Watermakers for dummies

noeliano244
 

We, too, have discovered that this sensor is simply a 2 minute timer
with no relationship to water quality. We do have the small control
panel faucet which we use regularly, as well as drinking our product
water. If you, Ben, do find out how the sensors were rewired, it
would be valuable to all of us. Since we have the extra sea gull
filter our water quality has remained very good with over 800 hours
on the water maker with some of the same problems you have had. We
winterized our water maker this winter since we are stored in Maine
and hope it will "wake up" in the Spring. We have found that the
chlorine testers for salt water fish tanks work very well for
testing the chlorine content of city water. We have, however, run
every drop of city/marina/yacht club water through a charcoal filter
which we simply add onto the delivery hose. We have not, however,
cleaned out the water tanks and would like information on how much
chlorine, how much water, how much mixing (i.e. wind and wave
action) we might need to finally do this. Thanks. Pete & Mary,
Noelia #244



--- In amelyachtowners@..., rbenven44 <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

A few years ago, when we were in the Med, we met another Super
Maramu
that had discovered that the watermaker had a 2-minute delay at
start-
up, and an inoperative salinity sensor. The owner was told by
Dessalator that Amel had requested the units be installed that way
so
that owners would not have to clean the salinity sensor, and so
that
occasional sensing errors would not shut down the system. This
was
part of Amel's "low-maintenance" approach.
This owner then rewired the control panel to activate the sensor,
and
I believe that it has worked fine since then. We did not do it to
our boat, as I was happy tasting the product at the control panel
faucet (don't the new boats have this?) to verify proper operation.
By the way, we have 875 hours on our watermaker over 8 seasons
with
no problems other than the leaks in the old membrane plastic end
cap
fittings (which Dessalator replaced with SS ones a few years back).
Rather than post this owner's name on the web site, I will contact
him directly and ask him to post on the web site how he rewired
the
unit to activate the salinity sensor.
Happy New Year to all.

Roy Benveniste
SM Excalibur #195


Re: Algae on propeller

noeliano244
 

We have had some success with an Aussie product called GOOP. It is
anhydrous lanolin, and depending on where the boat sits will keep
the buildup of algae & barnacles under control between dives. We
are able to dive on the prop quite regularly when in the tropics--we
have a 50 foot hose connected directly to our dive tank so it is not
so paraphanalia intensive. When we move back to New England we do
have to clean the prop once in the 4-5 months we are in the colder
waters. We do not spend much time in marinas, but did find out
early on that marinas cause lots of build up. The auto prop must be
very clean or else RPM decreases to an alarming state. We have
never painted the prop because we were advised against this. We
would be interested to know if there is a safe paint for an auto
prop since the Auto prop representative said "no". We found the
GOOP product through AB Marine. Email address sales@....
On a similiar note, we also were advised by auto prop to replace the
red plastic shipping nut with the appropriate zinc. We have "eaten"
lots of prop zincs, but the rudder zincs last longer. The rudder
zinc is quite a distance from the prop, so we feel that we have
better protection. Perhaps Amel has changed this on later SMs.
Pete and Mary on Noelia



--- In amelyachtowners@..., "tonic102004"
<paebersold@f...> wrote:

I am new owner of a used sm (227). I did not use it much until
know.
The boat is well maintained and in very good condition, we like it
very much. Nevertheless, there seems to be a problem with algae
development on the propeller when the boat lays for a few weeks in
the marina. Actualy the boat is in SanRemo in the Med. After a few
weeks not beeing used, the engines gets up to 1700t/m instead of
2500
or more. The previous owner had evertime asked a diver to clean
the
propeller before navigating.
Has anybody experience in solving this problem. Or is the only way
diving and cleaning?
Thanks
Paul


Re: watermaker spring commissioning

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
 

I would suggest buying a water filter housing from Sears or a similar
source, inserting an activated charcoal filter, and using that
whenever you fill your water tank from shore sources. Put it in line
in your water hose. Then your water tank won't have any chlorine in
it. The advantage is that whenever you flush your watermaker it will
be with non-chlorinated water, and the membranes will last longer.
Also, your water will taste better. The downside is that things are
more likely to grow in your tank, so clean it out at least every six
months with a good dose of chlorine, then dump the water. DON'T use
it to flush your watermaker, it will kill the membranes.
The alternative is to find a way to fit a charcoal filter in line in
the flush water for the watermaker. I haven't figured out how to do
that. I wish AMEL did that in their installation...
Roy

--- In amelyachtowners@..., markmpitt <no_reply@y...>
wrote:

I pickled my watermaker and added food-grade anti-freeze for the
winter. If my town's water may be chlorinated, how should I flush
the
watermaker in the spring without harming the membrane? Does letting
town water sit in the tank for a few day dissipate any chlorine? I
see that Spectra and some other watermaker companies ship their
units
with a activated carbon filter in the flush cycle to remove
chlorine.

Mark Pitt
ASM #419 "Sabbatical III"


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Wind vane steering

Steve Leeds
 

Hi,

We have owned our Sharki (number 121) since 1990, lived aboard for 13 years and circumnavigated aboard her. If you have any questions (other than about windvane steering as we don't have any) we would be glad to help if we can.

We know of a Sharki named WASABI owned by a Canadian couple who also circumnavigated aboard her before selling the boat. They did have windvane steering, but unfortunately, I don't recall what brand they had. The problem, of course, in installing windvane steering on a Sharki is the mizzen boom. The blade on the windvane must be "tacked" under the boom when tacking -- potentially a problem.

There have been several occasions over the years when I wished I had windvane steering as a backup to our VERY reliable but power hungry NECO autopilot.

Steve Leeds

Yacht MACCABEE




---------------------------------
Do you Yahoo!?
The all-new My Yahoo! Ė What will yours do?


Re: Wind vane steering

spritoaffine <spritoaffine@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., north pitney <northp@m...>
wrote:
I would be very interested to get the group's ideas about wind vane
steering for my Sharki.
I am looking most closely at the Windpilot Pacific Plus.
http://www.windpilot.de/en/Ra/raproen.html
Thank you for your input,
-North
Sharki #30
Laboratorium (nee Amadee)
My wife and I also bought a Sharki in Fort Lauderdale last summer so we
were interested to see you requests for information
I can help with a fluid and an electrical diagram, having only spent a couple of
weeks aboard since the purchase a lot of the systems are still unknown to me
and I would appreciate any info the membership could provide
David and Hazel Worthington


watermaker spring commissioning

markmpitt <no_reply@...>
 

I pickled my watermaker and added food-grade anti-freeze for the
winter. If my town's water may be chlorinated, how should I flush the
watermaker in the spring without harming the membrane? Does letting
town water sit in the tank for a few day dissipate any chlorine? I
see that Spectra and some other watermaker companies ship their units
with a activated carbon filter in the flush cycle to remove chlorine.

Mark Pitt
ASM #419 "Sabbatical III"


RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Algae on propeller

Patrick Naegels <naegels@...>
 

Plastimo references :

- ref 18344 primer
- ref 27442 grey or 27441 black for bottom paint

Do not hesitate to apply 4 coats of bottom paint, because coats are very
thin with a spray. Protect neighbourhood with cardboard and tape to
avoid dirties on hull

Patrick

-----Message d'origine-----
De : jose.esteller [mailto:jose.esteller@...]
Envoyé : mercredi 29 décembre 2004 19:30
À : amelyachtowners@...
Objet : Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Algae on propeller


Hi Patrick

Can you send me the references of the PLASTIMO spray system ?
I have trye many kinds of paints and not any one succesfully.
I am in Med. in La Grande Motte and this year i will trip in Greece.

Merci

JOSE
SILVIA IV SM426
f9ib@...

----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Naegels
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2004 6:32 PM
Subject: RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Algae on propeller


Hi Paul,

yes, you have to clean blades of your propeller to come back to
2.500
rpm

To avoid that, you can apply some coats of bottom paint on your
propeller at next haul out. Several brands are OK.
We succesfully tested 2 components PLASTIMO spray system in Med and
2
components JOTUN paint system in West Indies.

Easy to apply, that just take some time, because of the time you
have to
wait between coats. Blades are rather clean during 1 year except if
you
stay for a long call (several months)

Patrick
http://www.amelcaramel.net





-----Message d'origine-----
De : tonic102004 [mailto:paebersold@...]
Envoyé : mardi 28 décembre 2004 9:14
À : amelyachtowners@...
Objet : [Amel Yacht Owners] Algae on propeller



I am new owner of a used sm (227). I did not use it much until know.

The boat is well maintained and in very good condition, we like it
very much. Nevertheless, there seems to be a problem with algae
development on the propeller when the boat lays for a few weeks in
the marina. Actualy the boat is in SanRemo in the Med. After a few
weeks not beeing used, the engines gets up to 1700t/m instead of
2500
or more. The previous owner had evertime asked a diver to clean the
propeller before navigating.
Has anybody experience in solving this problem. Or is the only way
diving and cleaning?
Thanks
Paul





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Watermakers for dummies

rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
 

A few years ago, when we were in the Med, we met another Super Maramu
that had discovered that the watermaker had a 2-minute delay at start-
up, and an inoperative salinity sensor. The owner was told by
Dessalator that Amel had requested the units be installed that way so
that owners would not have to clean the salinity sensor, and so that
occasional sensing errors would not shut down the system. This was
part of Amel's "low-maintenance" approach.
This owner then rewired the control panel to activate the sensor, and
I believe that it has worked fine since then. We did not do it to
our boat, as I was happy tasting the product at the control panel
faucet (don't the new boats have this?) to verify proper operation.
By the way, we have 875 hours on our watermaker over 8 seasons with
no problems other than the leaks in the old membrane plastic end cap
fittings (which Dessalator replaced with SS ones a few years back).
Rather than post this owner's name on the web site, I will contact
him directly and ask him to post on the web site how he rewired the
unit to activate the salinity sensor.
Happy New Year to all.

Roy Benveniste
SM Excalibur #195


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Algae on propeller

jose.esteller <jose.esteller@...>
 

Hi Patrick

Can you send me the references of the PLASTIMO spray system ?
I have trye many kinds of paints and not any one succesfully.
I am in Med. in La Grande Motte and this year i will trip in Greece.

Merci

JOSE
SILVIA IV SM426
f9ib@...

----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Naegels
To: amelyachtowners@...
Sent: Wednesday, December 29, 2004 6:32 PM
Subject: RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Algae on propeller


Hi Paul,

yes, you have to clean blades of your propeller to come back to 2.500
rpm

To avoid that, you can apply some coats of bottom paint on your
propeller at next haul out. Several brands are OK.
We succesfully tested 2 components PLASTIMO spray system in Med and 2
components JOTUN paint system in West Indies.

Easy to apply, that just take some time, because of the time you have to
wait between coats. Blades are rather clean during 1 year except if you
stay for a long call (several months)

Patrick
http://www.amelcaramel.net





-----Message d'origine-----
De : tonic102004 [mailto:paebersold@...]
Envoyé : mardi 28 décembre 2004 9:14
À : amelyachtowners@...
Objet : [Amel Yacht Owners] Algae on propeller



I am new owner of a used sm (227). I did not use it much until know.
The boat is well maintained and in very good condition, we like it
very much. Nevertheless, there seems to be a problem with algae
development on the propeller when the boat lays for a few weeks in
the marina. Actualy the boat is in SanRemo in the Med. After a few
weeks not beeing used, the engines gets up to 1700t/m instead of 2500
or more. The previous owner had evertime asked a diver to clean the
propeller before navigating.
Has anybody experience in solving this problem. Or is the only way
diving and cleaning?
Thanks
Paul





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RE : [Amel Yacht Owners] Algae on propeller

Patrick Naegels <naegels@...>
 

Hi Paul,

yes, you have to clean blades of your propeller to come back to 2.500
rpm

To avoid that, you can apply some coats of bottom paint on your
propeller at next haul out. Several brands are OK.
We succesfully tested 2 components PLASTIMO spray system in Med and 2
components JOTUN paint system in West Indies.

Easy to apply, that just take some time, because of the time you have to
wait between coats. Blades are rather clean during 1 year except if you
stay for a long call (several months)

Patrick
http://www.amelcaramel.net

-----Message d'origine-----
De : tonic102004 [mailto:paebersold@...]
Envoyé : mardi 28 décembre 2004 9:14
À : amelyachtowners@...
Objet : [Amel Yacht Owners] Algae on propeller



I am new owner of a used sm (227). I did not use it much until know.
The boat is well maintained and in very good condition, we like it
very much. Nevertheless, there seems to be a problem with algae
development on the propeller when the boat lays for a few weeks in
the marina. Actualy the boat is in SanRemo in the Med. After a few
weeks not beeing used, the engines gets up to 1700t/m instead of 2500
or more. The previous owner had evertime asked a diver to clean the
propeller before navigating.
Has anybody experience in solving this problem. Or is the only way
diving and cleaning?
Thanks
Paul





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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watermakers

svmalaika@...
 

Jim,

If the two minute timer is used to delay the start of the watermaker what you
describe will happen and is normal. If, however, you start the watermaker,
let it run until the green light comes on and then short circuit across the two
wires to the sensor (simulating conducting salt water) the solenoid should
close the valve and the green light should go off. Conversely, if you short
across the two sensor wires (again simulating conducting seawater) and start the
watermaker the green light should never come on and the solenoid should not open
the valve.

Regards,
Charlie


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watermakers for dummies

Ian Shepherd <g4ljf@...>
 

Hello Roy.

the later SM's don't have the water tap on the water maker control panel. It
has been relocated to the high pressure pump to make draining the oil easy.
A good idea. I never did find the tap on the control panel that useful, much
as I would have like to use it to fill the kettle with taste free water. It
s position was just too awkward. I got around this by installing a Seagull
water filter with it's own tap at the sink. There is space to drill the
fixing hole in the sink top just to the right of the existing tap, and once
fitted, water from the keel tank tastes wonderful, even when the boat is new
and the smell of the tank lining has not worn off. The filter is so fine
that even Giardia bacteria are prevented from getting through should be
unlucky enough to upload some from a shore supply.

Today I took Crusader to sea and did a test. I ran the water maker normally
then shorted the salinity sensor. Nothing happened! So it looks as if what
you said below is true. The sensor may have been deactivated in the quest
for easy maintenance. This I find quite extraordinary and if true,
irresponsible. Why disable a 'belt and braces' system for the sake of trying
to make the system appear to be trouble free?

Imagine this scenario. You are on a long ocean crossing and your membranes
go bad. The water maker keeps running as the salinity tester is deactivated,
and in the meantime you are polluting your good, and maybe only source of
drinkable water. It just not make sense to me. I just hope that my test was
not done properly, but I did try it several times. Maybe the terminals
needed to be shorted for a minimum period of time?

Surely all Amel needed to have told it's customers is that if the unit shuts
down for reasons other than over pressure or overload of the genset, check
the sensor for dirty contacts. It's extremely easy to get to and a cinch to
remove.

Roy, if you do know how to wire the salinity tester back into the circuit
board, then please let me know. I want to do this right away as I rely 100%
on RO water to fill my tank. I forgot to bring the circuit diagrams back
home with me. Maybe it's obvious what to do, but any help would be welcome.

Finally, I am glad that I have a water testing instrument. It's the only way
of being sure that your water is safe and that the membranes are in good
order.

Best Wishes

Ian Shepherd

-------Original Message-------

From: rbenven44
Date: 12/29/04 19:34:40
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watermakers for dummies


A few years ago, when we were in the Med, we met another Super Maramu
that had discovered that the watermaker had a 2-minute delay at start-
up, and an inoperative salinity sensor. The owner was told by
Dessalator that Amel had requested the units be installed that way so
that owners would not have to clean the salinity sensor, and so that
occasional sensing errors would not shut down the system. This was
part of Amel's "low-maintenance" approach.
This owner then rewired the control panel to activate the sensor, and
I believe that it has worked fine since then. We did not do it to
our boat, as I was happy tasting the product at the control panel
faucet (don't the new boats have this?) to verify proper operation.
By the way, we have 875 hours on our watermaker over 8 seasons with
no problems other than the leaks in the old membrane plastic end cap
fittings (which Dessalator replaced with SS ones a few years back).
Rather than post this owner's name on the web site, I will contact
him directly and ask him to post on the web site how he rewired the
unit to activate the salinity sensor.
Happy New Year to all.

Roy Benveniste
SM Excalibur #195




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Watermaker

amelforme
 

Hello Fellow Amel Owners.



I have sent a message to Dessalator and await their reply. To my
recollection, the system has both a salinity tester and a "minimum" start
timer to be sure that the start up cycle fully purges the entire system. I
will report my findings as soon as I have a response, probably next week as
everyone is on holiday until after Saint Sylvester/New Years.



All the best,

Joel F. Potter SMM # 400 "MARY BROWN"


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Watermakers

Ian Shepherd <g4ljf@...>
 

Hi John,

I won't have time to do any tests for a few days, but I would guess that
there might also be a time delay built into the system as well to ensure a
suitable wait after the probe senses good water. This may be done for two
reasons. Firstly to ensure that any bad water in the system is flushed well
out before the valve switches, and secondly to give the system a more
certain chance of not sending bad water into the tank should the probe sense
fresh water too early due to poor conductivity through dirty probes.

Maybe the way to test it is to get the watermaker running normally with the
green light on, then short out the probe using a potentiometer or at least a
resistor, to see if the bad water light comes on or the system shuts down. I
will see what I can do, but I don't want to blow anything up! Has anyone
asked Desalinator direct yet? (dessaltator@...).

By the way, did you get the Hydra to read the magnetic wind direction yet?

Regards to Anne. K was over here for a couple of weeks recently.

Cheers

Ian

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Watermakers

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Hello Charlie,
Apologies....you are quite right. So the test might be to have one
person in the galley and the other in the engine room.The galley
person switches the watermaker on and sees the red LED. The other
person pulls a connector off the probe and at that moment there
should be a clunk from the solenoid and the green LED should
come on.
My bet is that it will do nothing until the two minutes pass and I
look forward to a report from someone with a boat in clean water to
do the test.
I also hope that Joel or Amel will give a full explanation of the
installations so that if there is no detector circuit one can decide
whether to fit one. Having seen the pics of the damaged washing
machine parts on Blue Marine I would not hesitate.
My installation has been faultless except last summer when the
capacitors on the big electric motor burnt out. The size had been
painted over but I got a quick reply from the makers, they are 2 X
30 MFD or 1 60 MFD and 250 volt of course. They are very cheap and
easily fitted and should perhaps be in the spares kit for
transoceanic voyages. The electrician told me that such failures are
relatively common on induction start motors.

Best wishes from Malta, John


Satellite radio

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Has any one installed a satellite radio in their boat yet? It seams to be the rage now, and it looks like it can work 100's of miles off shore. Its crystal clear and has no commercialls. News weather,sports and all kinds of music 24/7. Its cheap enough as you use your existing am fm radio. Its about a $100.00 for the unit and $10.00 per month. They say it will work in Puerto Rico,and the Virgins, but i don't know. Has anyone had any experience? If its satterlite, why can't it work in the Pacific?
John sm248 " Moondog"

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