Date   

Puerto Williams

eric freedman
 

I just came across this for everyone's info.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite



Puerto Williams : Profile

Clearance
Yachts entering the Beagle Channel area should contact the Chilean Navy on
VHF Channel 16. Puerto Williams is a naval base, but yachts are welcomed
there. Cruising boats are usually told to proceed directly into the small
western basin, close to the airport, where there is a concrete dock.
Shallow-drafted boats may come on its inside, or tie up alongside the
Micalvi, a former supply ship, now used as a yacht club by the locals.
Officials will visit the boat here, after which the captain must go to the
port captain's office to complete formalities. It is essential that those
for whom this is the first port of entry into Chile insist on being given
the compulsory customs certificate. Those who leave without it will have
serious problems when clearing out of Chile.

From September 2004, all the foreign yachts entering Pto. Williams had to
pay a new tax. From Monday to Friday between 08:00 and 18:00 o'clock, and
Saturday from 06:00 to 13:00 the Authorities charged US$ 40 every time a
yacht entered or left this port coming from or going to a foreign country.
In overtime, they charged US$60. At the end of October this tax was reduced.
The fees which now apply are as follows:

Yacht up to 25 tons: each time a yacht enters or leaves the country it must
pay: US$2.60 (Monday to Friday 0700 - 1900 and Saturday 0700 - 1300).
Outside of these hours, the charge will be 50% more i.e. US$3.90 (weekdays
1900 - 0700 AM and from Saturday 1300 to Monday 0700).

Yacht from 25 to 1000 tons: each time a yacht enters or leaves a port or a
marina it must pay US$40. In overtime 50% more (60 US$).

Please note: A yacht less than 25 tons of TRG must pay this tax only when it
enters or leaves the country. A yacht more than 25 tons of TRG must pay each
time it enters or leaves a port of Chile, even when it sails in Chilean
waters without leaving the country. Lighthouse and beacon fees are : US $
2.88 per year or US$ 0.88 per TRG for all the trip.

Capitania de Puerto
Tel:+56 61 621090, Fax:+56 61 621090, VHF Channel 16
cpwilliams@...

Docking
Puerto Williams, Chile's most southern city, is the usual jumping off point
for Antarctica. It is situated on Navarino Island in the Beagle Channel.

The most pleasant, and safest, berths are at the Club Naval de Yates
Micalvi. It is based in a small inlet at the western end of the harbour.
There is an anchorage in Seno Lauta, with good holding, but exposed to both
easterly and westerly winds. It is free, but requires permission from the
Port Captain.

Yacht Clubs
Club Naval de Yates Micalvi
Puerto Williams, Chile
There is 3.5 meters on the outside of the'Micalvi', and 2 or less alongside
the portside. Water, electricity and hot showers are available. The bridge
and forward sections of the ship have been turned into a very popular bar,
for both passing crews and locals alike. There is a warm welcome here for
everyone.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Puerto Williams

eric freedman
 

Thanks
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of markmpitt
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2006 9:51 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Puerto Williams

Eric:

Aweb search yields this:

Club de Yates Micalvi (tel. 61/621020)

Regards,

Mark Pitt, ASM S/V Sabbatical III (#419)

--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Does anyone know of a way to contact the "yacht club" in Puerto
Williams?
fair winds,
eric







Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Puerto Williams

Mark Pitt
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Does anyone know of a way to contact the "yacht club" in Puerto
Williams?
fair winds,
eric
Eric:

Club de Yates Micalvi (tel. 61/621020)

Regards,

Mark Pitt S/V Sabbatical III (ASM#419)


Re: Puerto Williams

Mark Pitt
 

Eric:

Aweb search yields this:

Club de Yates Micalvi (tel. 61/621020)

Regards,

Mark Pitt, ASM S/V Sabbatical III (#419)

--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Does anyone know of a way to contact the "yacht club" in Puerto
Williams?
fair winds,
eric


Puerto Williams

eric freedman
 

Does anyone know of a way to contact the "yacht club" in Puerto Williams?
fair winds,
eric


Re: i still can't find the vents for the holding tank

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

The vents for the holding tanks on my SM (Hull # 335) are part of the
deck fitting for the holding tanks. If you look at the aft portion of
the deck fitting you will see that is composed of a black plastic
spacer and the metal threaded cap. Look at the aft side of the plastic
spacer and you will see two holes drilled horizontally that face aft.
This is the vent. The vent is at the top of the tank (literally). If
you remove the cap labeled "WC" you will see that there is a standpipe
welded to the inside of the metal cap assembly. This standpipe ends
near the bottom of the holding tank. Thus when doing a pump out and
suction is applied at the holding tank deck fitting it draws the black
water from the bottom of the tank while air enters at the top of the
tank through the vent openings. The vent opening also acts as an over-
flow for the holding tanks. If you overfill your holding tanks the
black water will come out of the vents and run down the deck. Don't
ask me how I know this.

Regards, Gary Silver Amel SM 2000 Hull #335

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "eric freedman"
<kimberlite@...> wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@> wrote:

I looked near the tanks on the hull and couldn't find anything.
Thanks
Eric
Fair Winds,
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


i still can't find the vents for the holding tank

eric freedman
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

I looked near the tanks on the hull and couldn't find anything.
Thanks
Eric
Fair Winds,
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Robin Cooter
Sent: Monday, February 06, 2006 5:41 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] vent on newer model sm

I can't answer your question but if they are fitted they should go
though
the upper part of the hull near the tank and will probably have a
metal
shield covering the outlet.

Robin



eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:
Hi,
I have hull #376.
I was wondering where the vents for the holding tanks are located.

Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





SPONSORED LINKS
Sailing Sailing yacht Amel Boating sailing

---------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS


Visit your group "amelyachtowners" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@...

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of
Service.


---------------------------------





---------------------------------
Yahoo! Cars NEW - sell your car and browse thousands of new and
used cars
online search now
---------------------------------


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos

eric freedman
 

Gary,
Thanks for the info.
Where is your boat now?
We are in St Martin.
Fair Winds,
Eric

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Saturday, February 25, 2006 12:24 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos

--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:
24 Feb 2006
Eric:

I purchased 3/8 inch quick connect fittings at Home Depot (white plastic,
push together
fitting that are good to 100 psi) and cut the blue 10 mm product water line.
There is
virtually no pressure on this line . The sensor for the EC system that I
mentioned
previously plumbs into a 1/2 in pipe thread fitting. I bought a 1/2 inch
PVC pipe "T"
fitting, and plumbed it with the quick connects. So the sensor is just
immersed in the
product water as it flows by. I'll post photos after my next trip. I took
220 volt 50 Hertz
Power from the circuit breaker for the water maker.

I have noticed that upon startup the EC briefly goes to somewhere above 2000

microsiemens but then within 30 seconds it comes down to about 350. If you
run the
watermaker below green range pressure the EC is actually higher than if run
in the normal
operating range. I don't quite understand that but it is consistent. I
inquired of the Wafer
Fire and Ice people that I bought my membranes from and they tell me that
this is normal.
They call it TDS creep. Evidently when the system is shut down the high TDS
on the sea
water side draws the product water back across the membrane by osmotic
pressure. This
then concentrates the solulte in the product water side as more and more
water is drawn
back across the membranes. The longer the system sits idle the more TDS
creep there is.
So the initial minute or two of product water will be high in TDS (EC).
Perhaps that is why
the Dessalator system had a timer. I have spent hours corresponding with
Dessalator and
they will not provide me with schematics or a logic diagram for the system.
I plan to take
detail digital photos of the circuit boards next month when I get on the
boat and reverse
engineer the electronics. It doesn't appear to be that complicated.
Dessalator says that
they do have spare logic circuit boards for sale and will install one if I
ship my system to
them but they at the same time make no guarantees that the system will
behave as
advertised even with a new board installed. This is about the goofiest
company policy that
I have ever run across.

Regards, Gary


Gary,
How did you hook the salinity sensor into the watermaker output?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite






Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:
24 Feb 2006
Eric:

I purchased 3/8 inch quick connect fittings at Home Depot (white plastic, push together
fitting that are good to 100 psi) and cut the blue 10 mm product water line. There is
virtually no pressure on this line . The sensor for the EC system that I mentioned
previously plumbs into a 1/2 in pipe thread fitting. I bought a 1/2 inch PVC pipe "T"
fitting, and plumbed it with the quick connects. So the sensor is just immersed in the
product water as it flows by. I'll post photos after my next trip. I took 220 volt 50 Hertz
Power from the circuit breaker for the water maker.

I have noticed that upon startup the EC briefly goes to somewhere above 2000
microsiemens but then within 30 seconds it comes down to about 350. If you run the
watermaker below green range pressure the EC is actually higher than if run in the normal
operating range. I don't quite understand that but it is consistent. I inquired of the Wafer
Fire and Ice people that I bought my membranes from and they tell me that this is normal.
They call it TDS creep. Evidently when the system is shut down the high TDS on the sea
water side draws the product water back across the membrane by osmotic pressure. This
then concentrates the solulte in the product water side as more and more water is drawn
back across the membranes. The longer the system sits idle the more TDS creep there is.
So the initial minute or two of product water will be high in TDS (EC). Perhaps that is why
the Dessalator system had a timer. I have spent hours corresponding with Dessalator and
they will not provide me with schematics or a logic diagram for the system. I plan to take
detail digital photos of the circuit boards next month when I get on the boat and reverse
engineer the electronics. It doesn't appear to be that complicated. Dessalator says that
they do have spare logic circuit boards for sale and will install one if I ship my system to
them but they at the same time make no guarantees that the system will behave as
advertised even with a new board installed. This is about the goofiest company policy that
I have ever run across.

Regards, Gary


Gary,
How did you hook the salinity sensor into the watermaker output?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite


Follow up to 28 volt replacement lamp

amelforme
 

AMEL Owners Group:

Further to my last posting regarding the 28 volt replacement
lamp for the foredeck light and the mizzen mounted cockpit
light, G. E. makes both a spot lamp (clear, non-fluted lens,
more like a driving lamp on high beam) which is #4505 and a
fluted/diffused lens type (spreads the light out more than a
spot lamp) which is #4593.

Additionally, WAGNER makes (more likely sells a lamp from
another manufacturer) a 28 volt fluted lamp that is,
confusingly, a #4505 in their catalog.

I use the spot type on the main mast (more light to the
actual deck area) and the diffused lamp for the cockpit.
Seems to work well. Hope this helps.

All the best,
Joel F. Potter, AMEL 54 - HOLLIS, Hull #14


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos

eric freedman
 

Gary,
How did you hook the salinity sensor into the watermaker output?
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2006 6:20 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues & New Photos

15 Feb 2006

Hi all:

I just completed installation of new FilmTec SW30-2540 membranes ($177.00
each from
Air, Water, and Ice, Inc.) in my water maker. Not a difficult job one
accomplished. Hardest
part was getting the end caps off. I have detailed the process in some
Photos that I just
uploaded. My end caps were all ok, the O-rings were all ok, there was some
moderate
corrosion of the stainless interconnect thimble, and a defect in the brine
seal of one of the
membranes. However, I believe the failure mode was the membrane material
themselves.

Output is good, my new Omega EC monitor (220 volt wired to the desalinator
breaker) is
working great. The Dessalator salinity sensor does not work at all despite
testing it three
ways from Sunday with various scenarios. I am still trying to get some
answers from Rod
Boreham and Dessalator. I have spent a couple of hours on the phone with
Rod and a
couple of calls to Dessalator plus about 20 emails back and forth. I will
let you all know
more when I know more.

In the mean time, I would not run my Dessalator watermaker without backup
continuous
monitoring of the TDS (Total Dissolved Solids) or EC (Electrical
Conductivity). Until we
know more there is just no guarantee that the Dessalator sensor will divert
bad quality
water during an operational cycle, thus filling your fresh water tank with
salt water.

Regards, Gary Silver, s/v Liahona SM 2000 Hull # 335






Yahoo! Groups Links


Fuel filter question

PFM53 <pfm53@...>
 

Hi all

I know many of you have added Racor fuel filter systems to your Super Maramus,
and I am wondering which models you have found to be a good fit for the Amel.
Our SM is a 95, with the Perkins engine.

Thanks for any input you may have.

Jerry
PFM (#133)


Re: Kirk for Sale

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Hello,

Can you please send some photos and info?
My mail address is jose.luis.isasi@...
Thanks.
JL

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "syhanaleism"
<syhanaleism@...> wrote:

Amel Kirk, Year 1978, No. 229, one Swiss owner, sailed on Lake of
Constance, Teak deck, many extras, EU 35'000.--; please ask for the
documentation.


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Kirk for Sale

syhanaleism <syhanaleism@...>
 

Amel Kirk, Year 1978, No. 229, one Swiss owner, sailed on Lake of
Constance, Teak deck, many extras, EU 35'000.--; please ask for the
documentation.


Re: Sea Water Valve / Stop Cock Replacement

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

I had to replace the stop cock on the forward holding tank as the
old one seized up. The local chandlery sold replacements..in bronze
as the original for about US$10 or in stainless for $50.
It was difficult to cut the fibreglass around the bottom until I
bought a couple of long Abrafiles from the local toolshop. These are
made to be used in a hacksaw and are about three sixteenths of an
inch in diameter and 10 inches long. Although not designed for this
job they do bend enough to file through the fibreglass.I held the
ends with bits of rag. I also replaced the plastic tubing with a new
piece of Sanitary tubing.
Good luck John SM 319

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "john martin"
<symoondog@...> wrote:

Bob, I ordered new valves myself because the old ones are a little
hard to
turn off and on. The fiberglass around the valves on the holding
tanks seem
to be more decorative then anything. Its above the water line so
i'll just
cut around the valve and take it out and put the new one in. If my
wife says
it looks ugly I'll wrap some wide white tape around it. If the
fiberglass
turns out to be structual and needs to be re- wraped I'll let you
know.
John "Moondog" SM 248

From: "rossirossix4" <equinoxsolstice@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sea Water Valve / Stop Cock
Replacement
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 19:15:40 -0000

Amel recommends replacing or rebuilding the "sea water valves" in
their maintenance schedule. In their owners manual they refer
to
these as "stop cocks".

I obtained replacement stop cock valves for the engine sea water
intake, fwd and aft head intake, and holding tank discharge from
Amel and they sent the correct replacements which are 1 1/4" and 1
1/2" ball
valves.

However, I received no instructions for replacements and don't see
this addressed anywhere. The engine and head intakes look fairly
straight forward, but the holding tank discharge valve appears to
be
glassed in or on the bottom part of the valve. Almost looks like
it
must
be cut or removed to replace the valve/ stop cock.

These are for my 1993 Santorin, but should be similar or identical
for
the SMs during this period. Has anyone had experience with
replacement of these valves? I would appreciate any advice you
could
give me. Also, is teflon tape or grease advisable in the
replacement?


Bob Rossi, "Brittany de la Mer" #86.


Maint schedule is posted at
http://f4.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/EKT4QzUYDn-
WiJLZppAxC9lqQ1hYSIwyk1hCYdOdB4hdjZEm2CkUB-
_xcSDjtbz7RnSpGlGbYND4eH6VGCFc1SBwPg578N3Xnbg/maintenence%
20schedule.pdf



_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today -
it's FREE!
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sea Water Valve / Stop Cock Replacement

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Bob, I ordered new valves myself because the old ones are a little hard to turn off and on. The fiberglass around the valves on the holding tanks seem to be more decorative then anything. Its above the water line so i'll just cut around the valve and take it out and put the new one in. If my wife says it looks ugly I'll wrap some wide white tape around it. If the fiberglass turns out to be structual and needs to be re- wraped I'll let you know.
John "Moondog" SM 248

From: "rossirossix4" <equinoxsolstice@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Sea Water Valve / Stop Cock Replacement
Date: Sun, 19 Feb 2006 19:15:40 -0000

Amel recommends replacing or rebuilding the "sea water valves" in
their maintenance schedule. In their owners manual they refer
to
these as "stop cocks".

I obtained replacement stop cock valves for the engine sea water
intake, fwd and aft head intake, and holding tank discharge from
Amel and they sent the correct replacements which are 1 1/4" and 1
1/2" ball
valves.

However, I received no instructions for replacements and don't see
this addressed anywhere. The engine and head intakes look fairly
straight forward, but the holding tank discharge valve appears to be
glassed in or on the bottom part of the valve. Almost looks like it
must
be cut or removed to replace the valve/ stop cock.

These are for my 1993 Santorin, but should be similar or identical
for
the SMs during this period. Has anyone had experience with
replacement of these valves? I would appreciate any advice you
could
give me. Also, is teflon tape or grease advisable in the
replacement?


Bob Rossi, "Brittany de la Mer" #86.


Maint schedule is posted at
http://f4.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/EKT4QzUYDn-
WiJLZppAxC9lqQ1hYSIwyk1hCYdOdB4hdjZEm2CkUB-
_xcSDjtbz7RnSpGlGbYND4eH6VGCFc1SBwPg578N3Xnbg/maintenence%
20schedule.pdf



_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/


New Super Maramu Ballooner for sale

Zanareva
 

I have a spare brand new (hoisted a couple of times but not used)
Super Maramu Ballooner for sale. I'll sell for $1,200 plus actual UPS
or Fedex shipping cost (only to US or Canada address, please).
Condition 9.75 out of 10 scale. Check out close-up photo at: <a
href="http://img52.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dscf10893lo.jpg"
target="_blank"><img
src="http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/9840/dscf10893lo.th.jpg"
border="0" alt="Free Image Hosting at www.ImageShack.us" /></a>
or send me an email and I'll forward this high resolution photo to
you, plus a couple more.
Richard
closereach@...


Sea Water Valve / Stop Cock Replacement

rossirossix4 <equinoxsolstice@...>
 

Amel recommends replacing or rebuilding the "sea water valves" in
their maintenance schedule. In their owners manual they refer
to
these as "stop cocks".

I obtained replacement stop cock valves for the engine sea water
intake, fwd and aft head intake, and holding tank discharge from
Amel and they sent the correct replacements which are 1 1/4" and 1
1/2" ball
valves.

However, I received no instructions for replacements and don't see
this addressed anywhere. The engine and head intakes look fairly
straight forward, but the holding tank discharge valve appears to be
glassed in or on the bottom part of the valve. Almost looks like it
must
be cut or removed to replace the valve/ stop cock.

These are for my 1993 Santorin, but should be similar or identical
for
the SMs during this period. Has anyone had experience with
replacement of these valves? I would appreciate any advice you
could
give me. Also, is teflon tape or grease advisable in the
replacement?


Bob Rossi, "Brittany de la Mer" #86.


Maint schedule is posted at
http://f4.grp.yahoofs.com/v1/EKT4QzUYDn-
WiJLZppAxC9lqQ1hYSIwyk1hCYdOdB4hdjZEm2CkUB-
_xcSDjtbz7RnSpGlGbYND4eH6VGCFc1SBwPg578N3Xnbg/maintenence%
20schedule.pdf


Re: Water maker power draw

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@...> wrote:
Ed and others:
I had similar trouble with my 160 l/hr watermater on SM # 335. This behavior
began about 6 months after it was new (about the time we set off across the Atlantic).
The 20 amp breaker would trip intermittently and periodically just as yours did.

This problem continued intermittently until recently when it became more
frequent. So I checked the current draw at the 220 volt breaker panel
in the galley by using a clamp type AC ammeter and with the high pressure
pump running under load. The draw was only 13.5 amps. The breaker is a
20 amp breaker. Normally inductive motor start up loads are high and
you would expect the trip to occur with HP pump motor start, but this has
not been my experience. The trip would happen seemingly randomly and
unrelated to load or start. I didn't have a replacement breaker so I adjusted
the existing breaker. This is done by turning the red painted "set" screw on
the back of the breaker slightly. I turned mine each 1/8th turn. This tensions
a spring inside the breaker and raises the tension that must be developed on
the bi-metallic conductive strip in the breaker that causes a trip when load
exceeds the "breaker size" limit. Of course I no longer know what the actual
trip value of this breaker is. I intend to replace it with a 25 amp breaker as
soon as possible.

Note that 13.5 amps is probably not the total current draw for the desalinator.
The circuit box on the back of the watermaker control panel has a 25 amp
breaker labeled "HP" presumably for the HP pump, and also a 6 amp breaker
labeled "BP" which I presume is the "Brine Pump" or low pressure feed pump.
I will take some more measurements next time I am on the boat to verify this.
I am trying to get a copy of the schematic and logic diagrams for the water
maker from Dessalator. So far they have only offered to supplly an
installation wiring diagram. I am prepared to reverse engineer this system
to get to the bottom of these questions.

Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona

I had a problem with the 160 l / hour watermaker on SM#331 which
tripped the breaker when it was first put into service. There had
been a seal failure problem with the pre-feed pump and I replaced
this with no change in the breaker tripping behavior. Sometimes the
unit would operate for 30 minutes or so before the breaker tripped. I
tried simply replacing the Amel supplied 20 ampere breaker, assuming
that it was faulty but the problem persisted. After several e-mails
to Amel, they agreed that I should replace the breaker with one rated
for 25 amperes. I did this and the unit has operated perfectly for
the past 12 months. I have since discovered that at least one other
Super Maramu owner has had to make the same modification. I have
assumed that the unit must be drawing around 22 amperes in normal
operation – around 4.8 kW but I have not metered this.

Ed Steele
#331 `DoodleBug'


Battery Charger

Ag Av8ter
 

Hello fellow members,
We are the new owners of SM266. Question, I run the generator (we are
on the hook in the BVI) and the green light comes on, on the 220V
panel. I deperess the breaker to turn on the battery charger, but the
charger does not charge the batteries. Is the another breaker that I
am not finding? On the charger a Nemo 50 amp. the yellow light stays
on and the green light flickers on and off. I have a multimeter, but
am not very familar with electricity or trouble shooting.... so I am
not sure where to "read" to see the chargers output. Any Ideas??
Thank you.