Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] going to the rio dulce

usrey_chuck
 

Hi John

Good to hear from you and thanks for the information.

Chuck

john martin <symoondog@...> wrote: Chuck, Years ago I took my old 38ft. boat with 5 ft.draft across the bar at
high tide and I was nervous. I wouldn't think of taking 7ft.across it. you
need to check/join the SSCA, (Seven seas cruising association) as they have
boats up there all the time. They are great for stories of boats ,sizes and
drafts that have been there and done that.
John
Moondog SM248
From: "usrey_chuck"
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] going to the rio dulce
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 16:10:08 -0000

We are in Trinidad and planning next seasons cruise. We plan on
visiting the western Caribbean and spending next hurricane season in
Guatemala up the Rio Dulce River. We have heard various opinions as
to whether or not we can make it across the sandbar. Has anyone
crossed over the sandbar and traveled up the Rio Dulce?

Chuck & Pam
S/V Helen Louise
ASM350



_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Spaces is here! It’s easy to create your own personal Web site.
http://spaces.live.com/signup.aspx




Yahoo! Groups Links










[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Amel 54 - Electronic Options

cluecker <cluecker@...>
 

Hi,
We had the Icom M802 (SSB/Ham) and AT-140 tuner installed when we
took delivery of SM390 in December 2002. We always felt our
transmit range was a little short but could receive pretty well. We
had the long fiberglass whip that Amel prefers. In mid 2004 I
noticed the antenna ground plates were beginning to disintegrate.
At that time we were making our way through French Polynesia and I
thought the plates would hold out til NZ. They didn't. The last
crumbs disappeared in the harbour at Nuku Alofa, Tonga. The antenna
had not been grounded correctly when installed by Amel's agent in La
Rochelle, and had been acting as the sacrificial anode for the
system. We replaced them at haul-out here in NZ, but could not
source the same Banten (Italian) plates and had to modify some Guest
plates to fit. Make sure whoever installs the system does this bit
correctly.

Apart from that we were quite pleased with the system. We used the
Pactor III Pro modem and had no trouble with Winlink (Ham/Amateur)
connection, often picking up mail twice a day.

BTW, if Amel is still offering a high output alternator on the
engine for house bank charging, make SURE you have a smart regulator
on it. If you do any long distance motoring (>8hrs) you need to
make sure the charging voltage has dropped to float levels unless
you are certain that the bank is low and needs more. Otherwise,
you'll cook the bank. The Leece Neville on our boat has an
adjustable output, but many of the large cap. alternators don't. I
fiddled with the L-N for about a year, but eventually installed a
Balmar MaxCharge 624 and have been happy with it.
Cheers,

Chuck Luecker
SM390 Revelation
KB9YSS


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] going to the rio dulce

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Chuck, Years ago I took my old 38ft. boat with 5 ft.draft across the bar at high tide and I was nervous. I wouldn't think of taking 7ft.across it. you need to check/join the SSCA, (Seven seas cruising association) as they have boats up there all the time. They are great for stories of boats ,sizes and drafts that have been there and done that.
John
Moondog SM248
From: "usrey_chuck" <usrey_chuck@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] going to the rio dulce
Date: Thu, 31 Aug 2006 16:10:08 -0000

We are in Trinidad and planning next seasons cruise. We plan on
visiting the western Caribbean and spending next hurricane season in
Guatemala up the Rio Dulce River. We have heard various opinions as
to whether or not we can make it across the sandbar. Has anyone
crossed over the sandbar and traveled up the Rio Dulce?

Chuck & Pam
S/V Helen Louise
ASM350



_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Spaces is here! Its easy to create your own personal Web site. http://spaces.live.com/signup.aspx


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 54 - Electronic Options

Shann, Mark V <shannmv@...>
 

Hi, I have also installed a twinscope in a Maramu, using a hard epoxy
mount custom made to make the sensor stand out and see round both sides
of the hull, set about a metre in front of the depth gauge and behind /
offset the speed sensor.

Works great, no interference and I agree with Gary, almost exclsuively
used in look ahead mode, when in the Red Sea, super for slow entry to
reef anchorages and now in Turkey slow entry into crowded small town
quays.

All the best, Mark (Synnefoula)

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: 01 September 2006 16:06
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Amel 54 - Electronic Options


Martin Queried:
" 7. Has anyone any experience of fitting/using the Probe forward
scanning sonar depth sounder.> Regards, Martin"
Martin:

I had Amel install the Interphase TwinScope on my SM2000 Hull # 335 in
2001. They installed the display for the TwinScope but would only
install the forward scanning transducer (scans from straight forward to
down 90 degrees is a 3 degree beam width). It was Amel's contention
that the dual transducer was too large and would cause bubbles that
would interfere with the B & G sonic speed transducer system. This was
a legitimate concern. I subsequently installed the side-to-side
(individual) transducer behind the transducer that Amel installed and
ran the appropriate wiring. I was nervous about the bubble issue but
the system has worked well and I have seen no interference with the
sonic speed in this configuration (two separate transducers). You must
install the second transducer so that the curve of the bow allows it not
to "see" the forward scanning transducer.

I must admit that I seldom use the side-to-side mode as I find it a bit
hard to interpret and there aren't many coral heads in the areas that I
am cruising.

I will post a picture of the installation in the photo's section.

Best regards, Gary "Liahona"







Yahoo! Groups Links


Re: Amel 54 - Electronic Options

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

The photo of the TwinScope transducer installation is in the "Misc." file folder in the photos
section.

Gary


Re: Amel 54 - Electronic Options

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Martin Queried:
" 7. Has anyone any experience of fitting/using the Probe forward
scanning sonar depth sounder.> Regards,
Martin"
Martin:

I had Amel install the Interphase TwinScope on my SM2000 Hull # 335
in 2001. They installed the display for the TwinScope but would only
install the forward scanning transducer (scans from straight forward
to down 90 degrees is a 3 degree beam width). It was Amel's
contention that the dual transducer was too large and would cause
bubbles that would interfere with the B & G sonic speed transducer
system. This was a legitimate concern. I subsequently installed the
side-to-side (individual) transducer behind the transducer that Amel
installed and ran the appropriate wiring. I was nervous about the
bubble issue but the system has worked well and I have seen no
interference with the sonic speed in this configuration (two separate
transducers). You must install the second transducer so that the
curve of the bow allows it not to "see" the forward scanning
transducer.

I must admit that I seldom use the side-to-side mode as I find it a
bit hard to interpret and there aren't many coral heads in the areas
that I am cruising.

I will post a picture of the installation in the photo's section.

Best regards, Gary "Liahona"


Amel 54 - Electronic Options

yachtcaduceus <yachtcaduceus@...>
 

We take delivery of an Amel 54 (Caduceus III) in May 2007 and are in
the process of finalising the build specifications. We would be very
interested to hear from any 54 owners and their experiences and
opinions on the various options.

We intend to sail in European waters until 2009 when we wish to cross
the Atlantic and subsequently pass through the Panama into the Pacific.

One of the main difficulties that we face is in specifying electronics
as it is a field that is moving very quickly, in particular in the
area of PC based instrumentation and entertainment. Opinions
on/experiences of, the following points would be of great assistance.

1. Has anyone specified fixed computer screen / server arrangements
for the nav area. If so what, interfaced to what and running what.
2. In taking the standard Amel electronics package and upgrade
options what upgrades have been taken and with what results.
3. Navtex - Furuno integration or standalone or PC integration?
4. Is there any experience in either upgrading the TV/DVD combination
eg to take into account HD or to use a Windows Media based system with
a TV tuner incorporated - possibly integrated with item 1.
5. Wireless networking - experiences on board?
6. Have any difficulties been found in fitting a UK sourced ICOM 802
SSB transceiver.
7. Has anyone any experience of fitting/using the Probe forward
scanning sonar depth sounder. At the last Southampton Boat Show they
said that they would be launching Furuno said that they would be
launching similar equipment in Dec 05. I briefly saw advertisments
for this but now cannot find any reference and have no idea as to
whether it is aimed at a superyacht/ commercial shippping market or
not.

Regards,
Martin


going to the rio dulce

usrey_chuck
 

We are in Trinidad and planning next seasons cruise. We plan on
visiting the western Caribbean and spending next hurricane season in
Guatemala up the Rio Dulce River. We have heard various opinions as
to whether or not we can make it across the sandbar. Has anyone
crossed over the sandbar and traveled up the Rio Dulce?

Chuck & Pam
S/V Helen Louise
ASM350


Water maker

mcymabm@voila.fr <mcymabm@...>
 

amelyachtowners@...


Hi Eric MEJEAN,

I just came across your diatribe.
Although you decided it should not be answered, I will do it.
I will do it because I really want to congratulate you for being a great physician who makes science progress.
It is indeed completely new that salted water, even more when hot and added with washing product containing soda, does not do any harm and corrosion to metals (including non stainless).
Up to now, it is not what we can notice on our boats where we have to chase corrosion everywhere. You really deserve a Nobel Prize for that.
Unfortunately, I am not sure your theory is based on experience you have made while performing a real test with your own boat’s washing machine.
So, things are two folds: either you have performed the test on your own machine, or,
otherwise, we are obliged to consider that you are merely a spokesman for Dessalator!! And as poor a scientist as Wagner, the liar and thief.

Please read the numerous messages on this forum saying the same thing
and stick to facts and figures, all the rest is fuss and useless!

Yves MARTIN d'AIGUEPERSE
“Blue Marine”
SM 311

P.S. I have got pictures of the damaged parts….and invoices.




mcymabm@...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Water maker

mcymabm@voila.fr <mcymabm@...>
 

amelyachtowners@...


Dear Gary.

Sorry for being so late in answering your very interesting, professional and detailed reverse engineering on water maker.
I live on my boat, presently sailing in south Pacific Islands, often very far off an internet connecting point.
As I already said, mine is a Duo 60 which seems to be a lousy quality by-product very different of yours; amongst others: no BP primary feed pump, degraded HP pump (I opened it to confirm: 2 pistons removed out of the 3 installed by CAT and which are, they say, essential for the balance), no electrical protection….etc….

I looked again in the so called “control box” in the cockpit locker; NO CIRCUIT BREAKER at all (neither motor nor distribution curve); only relays to make clic clac after ~3 min. That confirms that there is no electric protection of the motor, against all safety standards. That is why I nearly got fire and I think I have no other choice than putting a slow blow fuse to protect the HP pump motor.

Incidentally, I know very well the CB’S you are talking of: I was with this company quite a lot of years, in charge of all types of CB (EHV to LV) all over the world.

Thank you again for your very factual and detailed approach of the problem which is of great help to all of us.

Kindest Regards

Yves MARTIN d'AIGUEPERSE
“BLUE MARINE”
S.M. N°311





mcymabm@...

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: shroud protectors

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

RE: Shroud Protector

Mark:

I found all sizes from West Marine except the 1/2 inch diameter and the next smaller size
(7/16 I think). I could find no US supplier for those two sizes. I too had to order it from
Amel. I bought about three sets each since the shipping was more than the cost of the items.
At one point I purchased some from Laurent in Guadeloupe.

The stuff I bought in the US seems to be of better quality plastic since it doesn't seem to
crumble as quickly as do the larger diameters from Amel.

Gary "Liahona" Hull #335


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] shroud protectors

eric freedman
 

Mark,

I had to order mine from Amel.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of markmpitt
Sent: Friday, August 25, 2006 6:36 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] shroud protectors



Does anyone know of a place in the US that sells the 1/2 inch diameter
shroud protectors used on the Super Maramu?

Mark Pitt "Sabbatical III' #419


shroud protectors

Mark Pitt
 

Does anyone know of a place in the US that sells the 1/2 inch diameter
shroud protectors used on the Super Maramu?

Mark Pitt "Sabbatical III' #419


Re: Rigging Question

Ag Av8ter
 

-Thank you for your reply. That is an interesting thought. I feel
that the best way to remidy the problem is to have the furling tube
at the correct "torque" or tension. Thanks again for your reply.

Tony



-- In amelyachtowners@..., "alex_govett"
<alex_govett@...> wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@> wrote:
Tony,
My husband suggest you slightly unfurl the main inside the mast,
to
helps cushion it as well as having the correct halyad tension.
Happy Sailing
Alex & Trak
'Tirando' #228 SM





Tony,

Did you try tightening the outhaul when the sail ids furled?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Roger Banks
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging Question



Hi Tony

Can you not either slacken or tighten the halyard tension so
that
the
mainsail would not be suspended loosely. In the later added
goiot
(maybe the word you are looking for) on my older boat, there is
no
room for the sail to slop around, but certainly the main halyard
controls its tension.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28 Zorba

On 22/08/2006, at 8:31 AM, agav8ter wrote:

Thank you Gary for the reply.

I did obtain an Amel CD. It is for the SM but has a different
engine, battery charger and some other things than my boat
#266.
I
was able to read and understand the way to change the tension
on
the
halyards (I do not have the Amel loop for the main). I was not
abale to find info on the (for the lack of the proper term)
furling
tubes. I can see by looking through the sail slot on the main
that
the entire furled sail is gently going back and forth as we
swing on
the hook, with the entire mass "slapping" the inside of the
mast.
When slepping forward it has the soft sound of doom, doom,
doom
as
it hits. It's the reference to DOOM that has me concerned!

Thanks again for the reply and I am all ears for for info.

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%
40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@>
wrote:

Hi Tony:

It would be a good idea to get the owners manual for your
boat.
It is full of very useful
information. Amel also produced a CD ROM that has the entire
SM
owners manual in it
and could be shipped to you easily for viewing on you
computer.
Just Email Amel at their
web site address and or call them and I am sure that you can
obtain the manual and/or CD
ROM from them.

The main and mizzen halyards are tensioned in different
ways.
The
mizzen halyard is
taken on the mizzen mast port side winch, then you release
port
side clutch where the
halyard exits the mast. You tension the halyard, without
load
on
the mizzen sail, until the
tack lacings near the furling gear box are taught. Set the
clutch
and stow the excess
halyard.

The main halyard requires a looped piece of line, originally
supplied by Amel and of the
same color code as the main halyard, that attaches to the
track
mounted car on the
starboard side of the main mast. Take tension off the car
with
the looped line taken to
one of the main mast winches (usuallly I use the larger lower
one), disengage the locking
pin, tension the halyard until the sail's tack lacings are
taught
and the locking pin engages
one of the track holes. Again is is important to have the
sail
unfurled and without load on
it (luffing) while you tension the halyard. This is all
easier
done than described. Amel
recommends that you ease the halyard tensions when the sails
won't
be used for some
time.

Even with the halyards properly tensioned I still hear some
slapping at times within the
masts. This is most likely the wires that run up the interior
forward sections of the masts
slapping back and forth as the boat pitches, rather than the
sails
themselves. I have been
a little worried about wire chafe from this slapping but I am
unsure what steps to take to
resolve it. Anybody else have suggestions on this?

I hope this helps.

Regards, Gary Silver

Hello fellow Amel sailors,

I own a SM #266, but do not have any of the (Amel)manuals
for
her.

Question:
Recently when the sails are furled I can hear the rolled
up
mass
gently banging against the inside of both the main and
mizzen
masts. I would like to know how to tighen the internal rig
to
make
the (I don't know the correct name) aluminum tube that the
sail
is
hanked to tighter to stop the banging. On the main mast
Stbd
side
there is a fixture that is on a slide. There is a line on
it
that
goes through the mast and to a winch. Is this where I get
the
desired tension? What is the correct tension? How about the
mizzen?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266
currently at anchor, Store Bay, Tobago

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging Question

Ag Av8ter
 

Hello Eric,

Yes I have the outhaul tight. However the furling tube moves and
will "slap" the inside of the mast even when the sail is unfurled
and has a nice wind filling it. Thanks for your reply, and "fair
winds" to you always.

Tony



--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Tony,

Did you try tightening the outhaul when the sail ids furled?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Roger Banks
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging Question



Hi Tony

Can you not either slacken or tighten the halyard tension so that
the
mainsail would not be suspended loosely. In the later added goiot
(maybe the word you are looking for) on my older boat, there is no
room for the sail to slop around, but certainly the main halyard
controls its tension.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28 Zorba

On 22/08/2006, at 8:31 AM, agav8ter wrote:

Thank you Gary for the reply.

I did obtain an Amel CD. It is for the SM but has a different
engine, battery charger and some other things than my boat #266.
I
was able to read and understand the way to change the tension on
the
halyards (I do not have the Amel loop for the main). I was not
abale to find info on the (for the lack of the proper term)
furling
tubes. I can see by looking through the sail slot on the main
that
the entire furled sail is gently going back and forth as we
swing on
the hook, with the entire mass "slapping" the inside of the mast.
When slepping forward it has the soft sound of doom, doom, doom
as
it hits. It's the reference to DOOM that has me concerned!

Thanks again for the reply and I am all ears for for info.

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%
40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@>
wrote:

Hi Tony:

It would be a good idea to get the owners manual for your boat.
It is full of very useful
information. Amel also produced a CD ROM that has the entire SM
owners manual in it
and could be shipped to you easily for viewing on you computer.
Just Email Amel at their
web site address and or call them and I am sure that you can
obtain the manual and/or CD
ROM from them.

The main and mizzen halyards are tensioned in different ways.
The
mizzen halyard is
taken on the mizzen mast port side winch, then you release port
side clutch where the
halyard exits the mast. You tension the halyard, without load
on
the mizzen sail, until the
tack lacings near the furling gear box are taught. Set the
clutch
and stow the excess
halyard.

The main halyard requires a looped piece of line, originally
supplied by Amel and of the
same color code as the main halyard, that attaches to the track
mounted car on the
starboard side of the main mast. Take tension off the car with
the looped line taken to
one of the main mast winches (usuallly I use the larger lower
one), disengage the locking
pin, tension the halyard until the sail's tack lacings are
taught
and the locking pin engages
one of the track holes. Again is is important to have the sail
unfurled and without load on
it (luffing) while you tension the halyard. This is all easier
done than described. Amel
recommends that you ease the halyard tensions when the sails
won't
be used for some
time.

Even with the halyards properly tensioned I still hear some
slapping at times within the
masts. This is most likely the wires that run up the interior
forward sections of the masts
slapping back and forth as the boat pitches, rather than the
sails
themselves. I have been
a little worried about wire chafe from this slapping but I am
unsure what steps to take to
resolve it. Anybody else have suggestions on this?

I hope this helps.

Regards, Gary Silver

Hello fellow Amel sailors,

I own a SM #266, but do not have any of the (Amel)manuals for
her.

Question:
Recently when the sails are furled I can hear the rolled up
mass
gently banging against the inside of both the main and mizzen
masts. I would like to know how to tighen the internal rig to
make
the (I don't know the correct name) aluminum tube that the
sail
is
hanked to tighter to stop the banging. On the main mast Stbd
side
there is a fixture that is on a slide. There is a line on it
that
goes through the mast and to a winch. Is this where I get the
desired tension? What is the correct tension? How about the
mizzen?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266
currently at anchor, Store Bay, Tobago









Re: Rigging Question slapping wires

Golden Daze \(Ken & Judy\) <goldendaze@...>
 

we just removed painted rebearinged and rerigged our main on maramu 192.
(1985, 20 yr old rigging)
also rebuilt motors and worm drives and rewired. both our masts made lots
of noise. since the top on our masts are open to elements we pulled up a
scotch guard pad (used for sanding, but will let water pass through) on a
seperate messenger line ( with knots and wire ties) up the wire channel to
shut it the __ up. it is now quiet. we now have the mizzen off and are
redoing all and will even put a pad up the halyard channel to shut it up as
well. its not like it goes up and down all that much. i expect this mast
deal to last me and someone else the rest of our lives. removal of forestay
from the extrusion has been a big deal and pictures and details will follow
for maramu owners who are thinking of rerigging. we can tell you lots of
stuff not to do.

ken coats and judy golden
sv golden daze
maramu 192


Re: Rigging Question

alex_govett <alex_govett@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:
Tony,
My husband suggest you slightly unfurl the main inside the mast, to
helps cushion it as well as having the correct halyad tension.
Happy Sailing
Alex & Trak
'Tirando' #228 SM





Tony,

Did you try tightening the outhaul when the sail ids furled?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Roger Banks
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging Question



Hi Tony

Can you not either slacken or tighten the halyard tension so that
the
mainsail would not be suspended loosely. In the later added goiot
(maybe the word you are looking for) on my older boat, there is no
room for the sail to slop around, but certainly the main halyard
controls its tension.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28 Zorba

On 22/08/2006, at 8:31 AM, agav8ter wrote:

Thank you Gary for the reply.

I did obtain an Amel CD. It is for the SM but has a different
engine, battery charger and some other things than my boat #266.
I
was able to read and understand the way to change the tension on
the
halyards (I do not have the Amel loop for the main). I was not
abale to find info on the (for the lack of the proper term)
furling
tubes. I can see by looking through the sail slot on the main
that
the entire furled sail is gently going back and forth as we
swing on
the hook, with the entire mass "slapping" the inside of the mast.
When slepping forward it has the soft sound of doom, doom, doom
as
it hits. It's the reference to DOOM that has me concerned!

Thanks again for the reply and I am all ears for for info.

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%
40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@>
wrote:

Hi Tony:

It would be a good idea to get the owners manual for your boat.
It is full of very useful
information. Amel also produced a CD ROM that has the entire SM
owners manual in it
and could be shipped to you easily for viewing on you computer.
Just Email Amel at their
web site address and or call them and I am sure that you can
obtain the manual and/or CD
ROM from them.

The main and mizzen halyards are tensioned in different ways.
The
mizzen halyard is
taken on the mizzen mast port side winch, then you release port
side clutch where the
halyard exits the mast. You tension the halyard, without load
on
the mizzen sail, until the
tack lacings near the furling gear box are taught. Set the
clutch
and stow the excess
halyard.

The main halyard requires a looped piece of line, originally
supplied by Amel and of the
same color code as the main halyard, that attaches to the track
mounted car on the
starboard side of the main mast. Take tension off the car with
the looped line taken to
one of the main mast winches (usuallly I use the larger lower
one), disengage the locking
pin, tension the halyard until the sail's tack lacings are
taught
and the locking pin engages
one of the track holes. Again is is important to have the sail
unfurled and without load on
it (luffing) while you tension the halyard. This is all easier
done than described. Amel
recommends that you ease the halyard tensions when the sails
won't
be used for some
time.

Even with the halyards properly tensioned I still hear some
slapping at times within the
masts. This is most likely the wires that run up the interior
forward sections of the masts
slapping back and forth as the boat pitches, rather than the
sails
themselves. I have been
a little worried about wire chafe from this slapping but I am
unsure what steps to take to
resolve it. Anybody else have suggestions on this?

I hope this helps.

Regards, Gary Silver

Hello fellow Amel sailors,

I own a SM #266, but do not have any of the (Amel)manuals for
her.

Question:
Recently when the sails are furled I can hear the rolled up
mass
gently banging against the inside of both the main and mizzen
masts. I would like to know how to tighen the internal rig to
make
the (I don't know the correct name) aluminum tube that the
sail
is
hanked to tighter to stop the banging. On the main mast Stbd
side
there is a fixture that is on a slide. There is a line on it
that
goes through the mast and to a winch. Is this where I get the
desired tension? What is the correct tension? How about the
mizzen?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266
currently at anchor, Store Bay, Tobago

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging Question

eric freedman
 

Tony,

Did you try tightening the outhaul when the sail ids furled?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of Roger Banks
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging Question



Hi Tony

Can you not either slacken or tighten the halyard tension so that the
mainsail would not be suspended loosely. In the later added goiot
(maybe the word you are looking for) on my older boat, there is no
room for the sail to slop around, but certainly the main halyard
controls its tension.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28 Zorba

On 22/08/2006, at 8:31 AM, agav8ter wrote:

Thank you Gary for the reply.

I did obtain an Amel CD. It is for the SM but has a different
engine, battery charger and some other things than my boat #266. I
was able to read and understand the way to change the tension on the
halyards (I do not have the Amel loop for the main). I was not
abale to find info on the (for the lack of the proper term) furling
tubes. I can see by looking through the sail slot on the main that
the entire furled sail is gently going back and forth as we swing on
the hook, with the entire mass "slapping" the inside of the mast.
When slepping forward it has the soft sound of doom, doom, doom as
it hits. It's the reference to DOOM that has me concerned!

Thanks again for the reply and I am all ears for for info.

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...>
wrote:

Hi Tony:

It would be a good idea to get the owners manual for your boat.
It is full of very useful
information. Amel also produced a CD ROM that has the entire SM
owners manual in it
and could be shipped to you easily for viewing on you computer.
Just Email Amel at their
web site address and or call them and I am sure that you can
obtain the manual and/or CD
ROM from them.

The main and mizzen halyards are tensioned in different ways. The
mizzen halyard is
taken on the mizzen mast port side winch, then you release port
side clutch where the
halyard exits the mast. You tension the halyard, without load on
the mizzen sail, until the
tack lacings near the furling gear box are taught. Set the clutch
and stow the excess
halyard.

The main halyard requires a looped piece of line, originally
supplied by Amel and of the
same color code as the main halyard, that attaches to the track
mounted car on the
starboard side of the main mast. Take tension off the car with
the looped line taken to
one of the main mast winches (usuallly I use the larger lower
one), disengage the locking
pin, tension the halyard until the sail's tack lacings are taught
and the locking pin engages
one of the track holes. Again is is important to have the sail
unfurled and without load on
it (luffing) while you tension the halyard. This is all easier
done than described. Amel
recommends that you ease the halyard tensions when the sails won't
be used for some
time.

Even with the halyards properly tensioned I still hear some
slapping at times within the
masts. This is most likely the wires that run up the interior
forward sections of the masts
slapping back and forth as the boat pitches, rather than the sails
themselves. I have been
a little worried about wire chafe from this slapping but I am
unsure what steps to take to
resolve it. Anybody else have suggestions on this?

I hope this helps.

Regards, Gary Silver

Hello fellow Amel sailors,

I own a SM #266, but do not have any of the (Amel)manuals for
her.

Question:
Recently when the sails are furled I can hear the rolled up mass
gently banging against the inside of both the main and mizzen
masts. I would like to know how to tighen the internal rig to
make
the (I don't know the correct name) aluminum tube that the sail
is
hanked to tighter to stop the banging. On the main mast Stbd
side
there is a fixture that is on a slide. There is a line on it
that
goes through the mast and to a winch. Is this where I get the
desired tension? What is the correct tension? How about the
mizzen?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266
currently at anchor, Store Bay, Tobago


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Rigging Question

Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
 

Hi Tony

Can you not either slacken or tighten the halyard tension so that the
mainsail would not be suspended loosely. In the later added goiot
(maybe the word you are looking for) on my older boat, there is no
room for the sail to slop around, but certainly the main halyard
controls its tension.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28 Zorba

On 22/08/2006, at 8:31 AM, agav8ter wrote:

Thank you Gary for the reply.

I did obtain an Amel CD. It is for the SM but has a different
engine, battery charger and some other things than my boat #266. I
was able to read and understand the way to change the tension on the
halyards (I do not have the Amel loop for the main). I was not
abale to find info on the (for the lack of the proper term) furling
tubes. I can see by looking through the sail slot on the main that
the entire furled sail is gently going back and forth as we swing on
the hook, with the entire mass "slapping" the inside of the mast.
When slepping forward it has the soft sound of doom, doom, doom as
it hits. It's the reference to DOOM that has me concerned!

Thanks again for the reply and I am all ears for for info.

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266

--- In amelyachtowners@..., amelliahona <no_reply@...>
wrote:

Hi Tony:

It would be a good idea to get the owners manual for your boat.
It is full of very useful
information. Amel also produced a CD ROM that has the entire SM
owners manual in it
and could be shipped to you easily for viewing on you computer.
Just Email Amel at their
web site address and or call them and I am sure that you can
obtain the manual and/or CD
ROM from them.

The main and mizzen halyards are tensioned in different ways. The
mizzen halyard is
taken on the mizzen mast port side winch, then you release port
side clutch where the
halyard exits the mast. You tension the halyard, without load on
the mizzen sail, until the
tack lacings near the furling gear box are taught. Set the clutch
and stow the excess
halyard.

The main halyard requires a looped piece of line, originally
supplied by Amel and of the
same color code as the main halyard, that attaches to the track
mounted car on the
starboard side of the main mast. Take tension off the car with
the looped line taken to
one of the main mast winches (usuallly I use the larger lower
one), disengage the locking
pin, tension the halyard until the sail's tack lacings are taught
and the locking pin engages
one of the track holes. Again is is important to have the sail
unfurled and without load on
it (luffing) while you tension the halyard. This is all easier
done than described. Amel
recommends that you ease the halyard tensions when the sails won't
be used for some
time.

Even with the halyards properly tensioned I still hear some
slapping at times within the
masts. This is most likely the wires that run up the interior
forward sections of the masts
slapping back and forth as the boat pitches, rather than the sails
themselves. I have been
a little worried about wire chafe from this slapping but I am
unsure what steps to take to
resolve it. Anybody else have suggestions on this?

I hope this helps.

Regards, Gary Silver

Hello fellow Amel sailors,

I own a SM #266, but do not have any of the (Amel)manuals for
her.

Question:
Recently when the sails are furled I can hear the rolled up mass
gently banging against the inside of both the main and mizzen
masts. I would like to know how to tighen the internal rig to
make
the (I don't know the correct name) aluminum tube that the sail
is
hanked to tighter to stop the banging. On the main mast Stbd
side
there is a fixture that is on a slide. There is a line on it
that
goes through the mast and to a winch. Is this where I get the
desired tension? What is the correct tension? How about the
mizzen?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266
currently at anchor, Store Bay, Tobago


Re: Rigging Question

Ag Av8ter
 

Thank you Gary for the reply.

I did obtain an Amel CD. It is for the SM but has a different
engine, battery charger and some other things than my boat #266. I
was able to read and understand the way to change the tension on the
halyards (I do not have the Amel loop for the main). I was not
abale to find info on the (for the lack of the proper term) furling
tubes. I can see by looking through the sail slot on the main that
the entire furled sail is gently going back and forth as we swing on
the hook, with the entire mass "slapping" the inside of the mast.
When slepping forward it has the soft sound of doom, doom, doom as
it hits. It's the reference to DOOM that has me concerned!

Thanks again for the reply and I am all ears for for info.

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266



--- In amelyachtowners@..., amelliahona <no_reply@...>
wrote:

Hi Tony:

It would be a good idea to get the owners manual for your boat.
It is full of very useful
information. Amel also produced a CD ROM that has the entire SM
owners manual in it
and could be shipped to you easily for viewing on you computer.
Just Email Amel at their
web site address and or call them and I am sure that you can
obtain the manual and/or CD
ROM from them.

The main and mizzen halyards are tensioned in different ways. The
mizzen halyard is
taken on the mizzen mast port side winch, then you release port
side clutch where the
halyard exits the mast. You tension the halyard, without load on
the mizzen sail, until the
tack lacings near the furling gear box are taught. Set the clutch
and stow the excess
halyard.

The main halyard requires a looped piece of line, originally
supplied by Amel and of the
same color code as the main halyard, that attaches to the track
mounted car on the
starboard side of the main mast. Take tension off the car with
the looped line taken to
one of the main mast winches (usuallly I use the larger lower
one), disengage the locking
pin, tension the halyard until the sail's tack lacings are taught
and the locking pin engages
one of the track holes. Again is is important to have the sail
unfurled and without load on
it (luffing) while you tension the halyard. This is all easier
done than described. Amel
recommends that you ease the halyard tensions when the sails won't
be used for some
time.

Even with the halyards properly tensioned I still hear some
slapping at times within the
masts. This is most likely the wires that run up the interior
forward sections of the masts
slapping back and forth as the boat pitches, rather than the sails
themselves. I have been
a little worried about wire chafe from this slapping but I am
unsure what steps to take to
resolve it. Anybody else have suggestions on this?

I hope this helps.

Regards, Gary Silver

Hello fellow Amel sailors,

I own a SM #266, but do not have any of the (Amel)manuals for
her.

Question:
Recently when the sails are furled I can hear the rolled up mass
gently banging against the inside of both the main and mizzen
masts. I would like to know how to tighen the internal rig to
make
the (I don't know the correct name) aluminum tube that the sail
is
hanked to tighter to stop the banging. On the main mast Stbd
side
there is a fixture that is on a slide. There is a line on it
that
goes through the mast and to a winch. Is this where I get the
desired tension? What is the correct tension? How about the
mizzen?

Thanks in advance for your help!

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266
currently at anchor, Store Bay, Tobago