As mentioned before, we experienced significant buildup of deposits
on the copper tube walls where the head pump hose feeds the holding
tank. Thickness on the main head was over 1/4" and the secondary
1/8". Removal took close to a hammer and chisel as the material was
quite hard and well bonded to the copper. Screw drivers of various
lengths and finally a stiff hacksaw blade physically removed most of
the deposits after great effort, bruised hands and ultimately aching
fingers, hands, and forearms. Next time it will be a 1 1/2" boring
tool!

Samples of the material were tested in jars of Drano, vinegar and
biological treatment for septic tanks. Only the vinegar seemed to
have an affect, softening the material to the point where it fell
apart when prodded with a screwdriver. The other samples remained
rock hard. So we proceeded with 10 hour straight vinegar treatement
from the head to the top of the inlet tube followed by flushing with
fresh water. Will inspect the results upon the next opportunity.

Several questions remain:

Cause - salt buildup from sea water flush? Do salts attach to
copper? Doesn't make sense as ships used to be clad with copper
sheeting, and copper is used extensively in bottom paints.

Can one assume that the exit tube to the through-hull is likewise
blocked? Future investigation. Perhaps this is why the through hull
valves are becoming increasingly stiff to operate.

Would weekly treatments with vinegar, as Gary suggests, be the
optimum solution to keep the pump, tubes and valve clean?

Do others have this problem? Especially is the problem specific to
applications with sea water flush AND copper tubing? Why is this
tube not plastic?

The through-hull and outlet copper pipe are bonded to the vessel
grounding system, but the inlet pipe that is giving us the problem
is not. Would doing so make a difference? Will know better after
examining the outlet pipe.

As we all know, optimally functioning heads are a blessing. Please
share your successes, or failures, on this issue.

Mike Ondra
Aletes SM#240

Mike, To eliminate future problems with buildup of the hard crystal in the line,hang the shower nozzel on the curtain hanger next to the toilet. When you flush(,the right toggle only on the black switch), spray the fresh water in the toilet and you r problem will be over. Only use the red button ( salt water in and flush ) If you are low on water. John
Moondog sm248

From: "Mike Ondra" <mondra@ptd.net>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] holding tank copper tube SM
Date: Thu, 06 Jul 2006 02:45:18 -0000

After losing our ability to pump out the toilet we discovered the
copper intake tube at the bottom of the holding tank was 3/4 blocked
by a hard crystaline substance deposited on the wall of the pipe.
This could be chipped away with a straight screw driver to the extent
that the screw driver could be leveraged up the pipe (maybe half way)
which seems to extend to near the top of the tank.

This boat has been in service 6 years, mostly in the Caribbean, with
sea water flush. Any ideas of what causes the buildup of such deposits
(combination of copper, salts, and ammonia from urine?)or experience
relative to its removal?

Mike
S/Y Aletes SM#240

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

We are only the third owners of this Mango. It is in excellent
condition.
Give us a call for the full scoop. Henry 858 967-6104

I have just sold my supermaramu 2000 and am hoping to replace her with either a well looked after Sharki or Santorin.
If anyone has any details of any for sale I would appreciate information.
Many thanks
Lynda

Gary,

I installed the new membranes and end caps.

Everything works well. I get an 87-95 micro siemens when the unit is
running. I plumbed it as you did. I think I am going to use a chase nipple
and hook the "t" with the omega sensor in it directly to the Amel sensors
"t" and then loop the output up higher so that there will always be water in
the sensor "t".

Thanks for all your help.

I will post pix of my install if it works.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona
Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 10:21 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Parts List & Parts Description for Watermaker
Logic Control Board



Hi All:

I have just uploaded a picture with labels for all parts on the Dessalator
Logic
Control Board. I have also uploaded an Excel Spread Sheet with Part Names,
Part Numbers, Manufacturer, and Part Purpose Descrition for each part
identified on the Parts Picture.

These are accurate for my vintage water maker (Amel Super Maramu 2000
Hull # 335, delivered July 2001). Your system may vary.

I hope this may be of some use to you.

Gary Silver

s/v Liahona

Thanks to those whom responded to my request for information. Peter
Pappas 'CALLISTO' #369

We had requested that Shade Tree duplicate the order that they had
produced for Ed Steele, SM2 #331. The 3 awnings that we received
are each slightly off in measurements and do not fit our boat
correctly. The bow section is not long enough so it does not cover
the bow area completely; the mid and aft sections are slightly too
long and there is no way to adjust them so that they will not rub on
the stays and shrouds. We are concerned that the fore and aft edges
of each awning section will rub through in a short time.

We also saw Shade Tree awnings on another Super Maramu 2000 when we
were in St. Thomas in May, named Bel Ami. Those awnings fit the
boat perfectly, with slots cut to fit around the stays and shrouds.
Unfortunately, Shade Tree has no record of having produced those
awnings.

We are pleased with the way the Shade Tree awnings work, just not
happy with the fit. Point is, measure your boat before you place an
order; don't make the mistake we did and assume that they can
duplicate a previous order and that those awnings will fit your
particular boat.

Also, we have found that these awnings can stay in place during 25
kt winds just find when at anchor when you will swing with the wind;
but we found that we had to remove them when the winds reached 20
kts while we were docked in a marina because they were acting like
sails as the wind came over our forward quarter.

Judy Rouse
S/V Security
SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele"
<edmundsteele@...> wrote:

Peter,
We bought awnings from Shadetree (see www.intheshd.com) for our

Super

Maramu #331. We bought three sections to cover the foredeck, main

cabin

and mizzen deck although we do not use the foredeck shade very

often.

The shades make a huge difference to the comfort level aboard and

have

survived several good blows without damage. They only take a few
minutes to deploy and strike and we have been pleased with the

product.

BTW we went with the silver color (white underside).
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug #331

Peter,
We bought awnings from Shadetree (see www.intheshd.com) for our Super
Maramu #331. We bought three sections to cover the foredeck, main cabin
and mizzen deck although we do not use the foredeck shade very often.
The shades make a huge difference to the comfort level aboard and have
survived several good blows without damage. They only take a few
minutes to deploy and strike and we have been pleased with the product.
BTW we went with the silver color (white underside).
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug #331

Peter,
We bought awnings from Shadetree (see www.intheshd.com) for our Super
Maramu #331. We bought three sections to cover the foredeck, main cabin
and mizzen deck, although we do not use the foredeck shade very often.
The shades make a huge difference to the comfort level aboard and have
survived several good blows without damage. They only take a few
minutes to deploy and strike and we have been pleased with the product.
BTW we went with the silver color (white underside).
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug #331

I want to have an awning made for my sm 2000. any suggestions for
material, color, designe and support would be greatly apprecieated. I
am considering a full deck awning. Thank you Peter Pappas 'CALLISTO'
#369.

Hi All:

I have just uploaded a picture with labels for all parts on the Dessalator Logic
Control Board. I have also uploaded an Excel Spread Sheet with Part Names,
Part Numbers, Manufacturer, and Part Purpose Descrition for each part
identified on the Parts Picture.

These are accurate for my vintage water maker (Amel Super Maramu 2000
Hull # 335, delivered July 2001). Your system may vary.

I hope this may be of some use to you.

Gary Silver

s/v Liahona

Hello,

This email message is a notification to let you know that
a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners
group.

File : /Dessalator Technical Info/LogicBoardPartNumbers.xls
Uploaded by : amelliahona
Description : Dessalator 160 lph Water Maker Logic Board Parts List/Description

You can access this file at the URL:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/files/Dessalator%20Technical%20Info/LogicBoardPartNumbers.xls

To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files

Regards,

amelliahona

Nice to have a post about the Mango, especially number 1. If it's the
same as ours, no. 28, the centre piece of wood is obviously a step,
and the stainless tubing either side seems to tidy that up visually
with some hanging bars which are also handing for tying back the
chain locker access hatch.

Regards, Roger, Zorba

We have recently acquired Mango hull no 1 and are in the process of a
rebuild.

Could anyone advise as to the function of the horizontal bar on the
interior side of the forepeak bulkhead?

Thanks,

John and Anne
Annie M

Gary,

With reference to my e-mail of June 30th, I have changed the O-rings on the
membrane nipples. Output was a bit less, so I guess I may have had some
leakage there, but the output was still polluted. Turning the pressure down
to about half output did cause my inline TDS to start reading sensibly, so I
guess I still have a perforated membrane in the system that leaks under
normal operating pressure. New membranes are now flying FedEx from Air,Water
Ice Inc. They gave super quick service.

I have had no reply yet from Amel to my letter regarding the salinity probe
that does not work.

Regards

Ian SM414 'Crusader'

Hi Joel
You are absolutely right about the bread machine. I just got one that uses only 500W so my small 12V inverter can handle it.

You are also right about using such a big inverter to run a TV, stereo, etc. We mostly use our Heart inverter a few minutes at a time to run the microwave, drill, vacuum or other high current appliances.

By the way I found the perfect replacement TV for the older Super M's. I bought the Magnavox model 15MF400T/37. It can also be used as a computer screen so it has an inverter that plugs into 110V but the TV actually runs on 12 V. I cut the inverter off and connected the TV direct to the 12V outlet in the cabinet to the right of the TV. And I have a beautiful 15 inch, lightweight, flat screen LCD TV and I can plug in a portable DVD player when I need it.

I'll call about ordering my new SM when I hit the lottery...

Regards,
John
Moon Dog

From: "Joel F. Potter" <jfpottercys@att.net>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: <amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Changing the subject
Date: Tue, 27 Jun 2006 15:45:45 -0400

Hello John,

I hope you won't think I'm picking on you but the advice you
gave is not correct.

The Heart inverter charger is a nice piece of gear. It will
also pull, in our opinion, too much out of the 24 volt bank
when used to operate the microwave or other high current
items.

Additionally, be very careful when running 110 volt
appliances on stepped down 220 volt power. The power
remains 50 cycle, not 60 cycle. This won't matter with
drills and blenders but will quickly destroy televisions and
stereo equipment as well as most bread makers and espresso
machines as the "brain" of these devices take their timing
signature off 60 cycle, not 50 cycle. 50 cycle will destroy
sophisticated 110 volt components very quickly.

Be careful.

All the best,
Joel F. Potter
AMEL 54, Hull # 14 - HOLLIS

_________________________________________________________________
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement

7 July 2006

Mike: I am a little confused about where this blockage is. Is it in the
pipe that comes out the bottom of the holding tank to the through hull?
Is it in the hose that enters the top of the holding tank that comes from
the toilet? Is it in the stem pipe that runs from the deck pump out
fitting to the bottom of the holding tank? I couldn't make out from
you description which pipe was involved. Perhaps your holding tank
is different that my hull # 335 holding tank.

At any rate, I use white vinegar (weak acetic acid) to dissolve salt
deposits. I flush some vinegar through my toilets (letting it sit in the
bowl, valves etc for 5 to 10 minutes) about once a week. I do this
so that it can sit in an empty holding tank with the through hull
valve closed so that it can dissolve the salt on the valve. So far so
good. I was taught this trick by the Orange Coast College Offshore
Sailing program.

Sounds like your problem might take repetative treatments but i
will venture a guess that this will help.

Regards, Gary

After losing our ability to pump out the toilet we discovered the
copper intake tube at the bottom of the holding tank was 3/4 blocked
by a hard crystaline substance deposited on the wall of the pipe.
This could be chipped away with a straight screw driver to the extent
that the screw driver could be leveraged up the pipe (maybe half way)
which seems to extend to near the top of the tank.

This boat has been in service 6 years, mostly in the Caribbean, with
sea water flush. Any ideas of what causes the buildup of such deposits
(combination of copper, salts, and ammonia from urine?)or experience
relative to its removal?

Mike
S/Y Aletes SM#240

I have painted, rewired, re-bearinged, and rerigged my main mast.
This week I will try to get it back on. Does anyone know how may foot
pounds the nut on top the mast needs for proper tension on the furling
extrusion?
I am also rebuilding the worm drives and will have all the bearing
numbers and locations for other Maramu owners interested.
1985 Maramu #192 Golden Daze
Ken Coats and Judy Golden

Hello Ian and Judy,

I am happy to hear that your D60 is working well. When I purchased
my SM#266, the D60 had about 300 hours on it. What kind of service
or maintanence it had recieved before I have no idea. As part of
the survey when we bought the boat we had a watermaker company in
Ft. Lauderdale come to the boat and test it. The tech was a great
guy and "knew his stuff. He ended up taking the unit out and bench
testing it at his shop. He said the membranes has been damaged by
clorine, and they were flowing on the bench at about 20-25 LPH. We
elected to change the membranes and with the new membranes installed
the unit flowed on the bench at 37 LPH. On the boat we get about 30
LPH. We of course changed the inflow filter and all valves are open
fully. Please understand the D60 on WORLD CITIZEN works fine, we
would like to have a greater rate of product water. I have nothing
against Desalator at all, in fact we are looking into replacing it
with the larger unit in Guadalupe in a week or two.

Thanks for your input, and I am glad you are getting the production
out of yours!!!

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
S/M266


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:

Hi Tony, Are we the only ones with an effective D60? Our SM, 302,

is 6

years old and we didnt use the W-M for the first 4 years. Now we

have 1,300+

hours on it and it regularly delivers 45-60lph. The cold waters of

Chile

made surprisingly little difference to outflow.We have pickled it

twice in

the last three years once for 7 months, once for 5. So far we are

on course

for the 2,000 hours that these membranes apparently can deliver,

though it

does seem that each set of membranes has a behaviour of its own.

Apologies

to all those readers who find the W-M topic boring ,but speaking

as someone

who is not technical and who is far away from yottie support

services I have

to say that I find all the technical issues raised on the site to

be

absolutly invaluable.Ian and Judy Jenkins, Pen Azen, Uruguay.