SM 2000 #240 holding tank copper pipe/tube blockage
Mike Ondra <mondra@...>
As mentioned before, we experienced significant buildup of deposits
on the copper tube walls where the head pump hose feeds the holding tank. Thickness on the main head was over 1/4" and the secondary 1/8". Removal took close to a hammer and chisel as the material was quite hard and well bonded to the copper. Screw drivers of various lengths and finally a stiff hacksaw blade physically removed most of the deposits after great effort, bruised hands and ultimately aching fingers, hands, and forearms. Next time it will be a 1 1/2" boring tool! Samples of the material were tested in jars of Drano, vinegar and biological treatment for septic tanks. Only the vinegar seemed to have an affect, softening the material to the point where it fell apart when prodded with a screwdriver. The other samples remained rock hard. So we proceeded with 10 hour straight vinegar treatement from the head to the top of the inlet tube followed by flushing with fresh water. Will inspect the results upon the next opportunity. Several questions remain: Cause - salt buildup from sea water flush? Do salts attach to copper? Doesn't make sense as ships used to be clad with copper sheeting, and copper is used extensively in bottom paints. Can one assume that the exit tube to the through-hull is likewise blocked? Future investigation. Perhaps this is why the through hull valves are becoming increasingly stiff to operate. Would weekly treatments with vinegar, as Gary suggests, be the optimum solution to keep the pump, tubes and valve clean? Do others have this problem? Especially is the problem specific to applications with sea water flush AND copper tubing? Why is this tube not plastic? The through-hull and outlet copper pipe are bonded to the vessel grounding system, but the inlet pipe that is giving us the problem is not. Would doing so make a difference? Will know better after examining the outlet pipe. As we all know, optimally functioning heads are a blessing. Please share your successes, or failures, on this issue. Mike Ondra Aletes SM#240
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] holding tank copper tube SM
john martin <symoondog@...>
Mike, To eliminate future problems with buildup of the hard crystal in the line,hang the shower nozzel on the curtain hanger next to the toilet. When you flush(,the right toggle only on the black switch), spray the fresh water in the toilet and you r problem will be over. Only use the red button ( salt water in and flush ) If you are low on water. John
Moondog sm248 From: "Mike Ondra" <mondra@ptd.net>_________________________________________________________________ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
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1983 Mango FOR SALE in San Diego
svapanti <mates@...>
We are only the third owners of this Mango. It is in excellent
condition. Give us a call for the full scoop. Henry 858 967-6104
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Santorin or Sharki for sale
LYNDA FIELDEN <lynda.fielden1@...>
I have just sold my supermaramu 2000 and am hoping to replace her with either a well looked after Sharki or Santorin.
If anyone has any details of any for sale I would appreciate information. Many thanks Lynda
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Parts List & Parts Description for Watermaker Logic Control Board
eric freedman
Gary,
I installed the new membranes and end caps. Everything works well. I get an 87-95 micro siemens when the unit is running. I plumbed it as you did. I think I am going to use a chase nipple and hook the "t" with the omega sensor in it directly to the Amel sensors "t" and then loop the output up higher so that there will always be water in the sensor "t". Thanks for all your help. I will post pix of my install if it works. Fair Winds, Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite _____ From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Sunday, July 09, 2006 10:21 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Parts List & Parts Description for Watermaker Logic Control Board Hi All: I have just uploaded a picture with labels for all parts on the Dessalator Logic Control Board. I have also uploaded an Excel Spread Sheet with Part Names, Part Numbers, Manufacturer, and Part Purpose Descrition for each part identified on the Parts Picture. These are accurate for my vintage water maker (Amel Super Maramu 2000 Hull # 335, delivered July 2001). Your system may vary. I hope this may be of some use to you. Gary Silver s/v Liahona
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AWANING
pjppappas <pjppappas@...>
Thanks to those whom responded to my request for information. Peter
Pappas 'CALLISTO' #369
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Re: AWNING
We had requested that Shade Tree duplicate the order that they had
produced for Ed Steele, SM2 #331. The 3 awnings that we received are each slightly off in measurements and do not fit our boat correctly. The bow section is not long enough so it does not cover the bow area completely; the mid and aft sections are slightly too long and there is no way to adjust them so that they will not rub on the stays and shrouds. We are concerned that the fore and aft edges of each awning section will rub through in a short time. We also saw Shade Tree awnings on another Super Maramu 2000 when we were in St. Thomas in May, named Bel Ami. Those awnings fit the boat perfectly, with slots cut to fit around the stays and shrouds. Unfortunately, Shade Tree has no record of having produced those awnings. We are pleased with the way the Shade Tree awnings work, just not happy with the fit. Point is, measure your boat before you place an order; don't make the mistake we did and assume that they can duplicate a previous order and that those awnings will fit your particular boat. Also, we have found that these awnings can stay in place during 25 kt winds just find when at anchor when you will swing with the wind; but we found that we had to remove them when the winds reached 20 kts while we were docked in a marina because they were acting like sails as the wind came over our forward quarter. Judy Rouse S/V Security SM2 #387 --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "edmund_steele" <edmundsteele@...> wrote: Super Maramu #331. We bought three sections to cover the foredeck, maincabin and mizzen deck although we do not use the foredeck shade veryoften. The shades make a huge difference to the comfort level aboard andhave survived several good blows without damage. They only take a fewproduct. BTW we went with the silver color (white underside).
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Re: AWNING
edmund_steele
Peter,
We bought awnings from Shadetree (see www.intheshd.com) for our Super Maramu #331. We bought three sections to cover the foredeck, main cabin and mizzen deck although we do not use the foredeck shade very often. The shades make a huge difference to the comfort level aboard and have survived several good blows without damage. They only take a few minutes to deploy and strike and we have been pleased with the product. BTW we went with the silver color (white underside). Ed Steele SV DoodleBug #331
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Re: AWNING
edmund_steele
Peter,
We bought awnings from Shadetree (see www.intheshd.com) for our Super Maramu #331. We bought three sections to cover the foredeck, main cabin and mizzen deck, although we do not use the foredeck shade very often. The shades make a huge difference to the comfort level aboard and have survived several good blows without damage. They only take a few minutes to deploy and strike and we have been pleased with the product. BTW we went with the silver color (white underside). Ed Steele SV DoodleBug #331
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AWNING
pjppappas <pjppappas@...>
I want to have an awning made for my sm 2000. any suggestions for
material, color, designe and support would be greatly apprecieated. I am considering a full deck awning. Thank you Peter Pappas 'CALLISTO' #369.
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Parts List & Parts Description for Watermaker Logic Control Board
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
Hi All:
I have just uploaded a picture with labels for all parts on the Dessalator Logic Control Board. I have also uploaded an Excel Spread Sheet with Part Names, Part Numbers, Manufacturer, and Part Purpose Descrition for each part identified on the Parts Picture. These are accurate for my vintage water maker (Amel Super Maramu 2000 Hull # 335, delivered July 2001). Your system may vary. I hope this may be of some use to you. Gary Silver s/v Liahona
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New file uploaded to amelyachtowners
amelyachtowners@...
Hello,
This email message is a notification to let you know that a file has been uploaded to the Files area of the amelyachtowners group. File : /Dessalator Technical Info/LogicBoardPartNumbers.xls Uploaded by : amelliahona Description : Dessalator 160 lph Water Maker Logic Board Parts List/Description You can access this file at the URL: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/files/Dessalator%20Technical%20Info/LogicBoardPartNumbers.xls To learn more about file sharing for your group, please visit: http://help.yahoo.com/help/us/groups/files Regards, amelliahona
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Mango Forepeak Metal bar
Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
Nice to have a post about the Mango, especially number 1. If it's the
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
same as ours, no. 28, the centre piece of wood is obviously a step, and the stainless tubing either side seems to tidy that up visually with some hanging bars which are also handing for tying back the chain locker access hatch. Regards, Roger, Zorba
On 09/07/2006, at 12:06 PM, anniemno1 wrote:
We have recently acquired Mango hull no 1 and are in the process of a
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Amel Mango Forepeak Metal bar
anniemno1 <no_reply@...>
We have recently acquired Mango hull no 1 and are in the process of a
rebuild. Could anyone advise as to the function of the horizontal bar on the interior side of the forepeak bulkhead? Thanks, John and Anne Annie M
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Watermaker
Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
Gary,
With reference to my e-mail of June 30th, I have changed the O-rings on the membrane nipples. Output was a bit less, so I guess I may have had some leakage there, but the output was still polluted. Turning the pressure down to about half output did cause my inline TDS to start reading sensibly, so I guess I still have a perforated membrane in the system that leaks under normal operating pressure. New membranes are now flying FedEx from Air,Water Ice Inc. They gave super quick service. I have had no reply yet from Amel to my letter regarding the salinity probe that does not work. Regards Ian SM414 'Crusader'
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Inverters and TV sets
john martin <symoondog@...>
Hi Joel
You are absolutely right about the bread machine. I just got one that uses only 500W so my small 12V inverter can handle it. You are also right about using such a big inverter to run a TV, stereo, etc. We mostly use our Heart inverter a few minutes at a time to run the microwave, drill, vacuum or other high current appliances. By the way I found the perfect replacement TV for the older Super M's. I bought the Magnavox model 15MF400T/37. It can also be used as a computer screen so it has an inverter that plugs into 110V but the TV actually runs on 12 V. I cut the inverter off and connected the TV direct to the 12V outlet in the cabinet to the right of the TV. And I have a beautiful 15 inch, lightweight, flat screen LCD TV and I can plug in a portable DVD player when I need it. I'll call about ordering my new SM when I hit the lottery... Regards, John Moon Dog From: "Joel F. Potter" <jfpottercys@att.net>_________________________________________________________________ On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
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Re: holding tank copper tube SM
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
7 July 2006
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Mike: I am a little confused about where this blockage is. Is it in the pipe that comes out the bottom of the holding tank to the through hull? Is it in the hose that enters the top of the holding tank that comes from the toilet? Is it in the stem pipe that runs from the deck pump out fitting to the bottom of the holding tank? I couldn't make out from you description which pipe was involved. Perhaps your holding tank is different that my hull # 335 holding tank. At any rate, I use white vinegar (weak acetic acid) to dissolve salt deposits. I flush some vinegar through my toilets (letting it sit in the bowl, valves etc for 5 to 10 minutes) about once a week. I do this so that it can sit in an empty holding tank with the through hull valve closed so that it can dissolve the salt on the valve. So far so good. I was taught this trick by the Orange Coast College Offshore Sailing program. Sounds like your problem might take repetative treatments but i will venture a guess that this will help. Regards, Gary
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mondra@...> wrote:
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holding tank copper tube SM
Mike Ondra <mondra@...>
After losing our ability to pump out the toilet we discovered the
copper intake tube at the bottom of the holding tank was 3/4 blocked by a hard crystaline substance deposited on the wall of the pipe. This could be chipped away with a straight screw driver to the extent that the screw driver could be leveraged up the pipe (maybe half way) which seems to extend to near the top of the tank. This boat has been in service 6 years, mostly in the Caribbean, with sea water flush. Any ideas of what causes the buildup of such deposits (combination of copper, salts, and ammonia from urine?)or experience relative to its removal? Mike S/Y Aletes SM#240
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New Subject: Mast tensioning nut
coatsken <goldendaze@...>
I have painted, rewired, re-bearinged, and rerigged my main mast.
This week I will try to get it back on. Does anyone know how may foot pounds the nut on top the mast needs for proper tension on the furling extrusion? I am also rebuilding the worm drives and will have all the bearing numbers and locations for other Maramu owners interested. 1985 Maramu #192 Golden Daze Ken Coats and Judy Golden
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] More H20 discussion
Ag Av8ter
Hello Ian and Judy,
I am happy to hear that your D60 is working well. When I purchased my SM#266, the D60 had about 300 hours on it. What kind of service or maintanence it had recieved before I have no idea. As part of the survey when we bought the boat we had a watermaker company in Ft. Lauderdale come to the boat and test it. The tech was a great guy and "knew his stuff. He ended up taking the unit out and bench testing it at his shop. He said the membranes has been damaged by clorine, and they were flowing on the bench at about 20-25 LPH. We elected to change the membranes and with the new membranes installed the unit flowed on the bench at 37 LPH. On the boat we get about 30 LPH. We of course changed the inflow filter and all valves are open fully. Please understand the D60 on WORLD CITIZEN works fine, we would like to have a greater rate of product water. I have nothing against Desalator at all, in fact we are looking into replacing it with the larger unit in Guadalupe in a week or two. Thanks for your input, and I am glad you are getting the production out of yours!!! Tony WORLD CITIZEN S/M266 --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins" <ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote: is 6 years old and we didnt use the W-M for the first 4 years. Now wehave 1,300+ hours on it and it regularly delivers 45-60lph. The cold waters ofChile made surprisingly little difference to outflow.We have pickled ittwice in the last three years once for 7 months, once for 5. So far we areon course for the 2,000 hours that these membranes apparently can deliver,though it does seem that each set of membranes has a behaviour of its own.Apologies to all those readers who find the W-M topic boring ,but speakingas someone who is not technical and who is far away from yottie supportservices I have to say that I find all the technical issues raised on the site tobe absolutly invaluable.Ian and Judy Jenkins, Pen Azen, Uruguay.
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