Hi Dan,
The prop and its boss are a very close fit and almost impossible to sand down to make it easier and it is also difficult to line up the holes for the screws. The answer is simple, get three stainless machine screws a bit longer than the nylon ones and use these to line up the holes and to draw the prop on far enough for the screws to be replaced with the nylon ones. Obviously you must turn each screw a little at a time so that the prop goes on straight.
You must have done something different to break the blades off your old prop. I have neever had that problem because my props vanish into the deep after I manage to foul a ground line.
An even more difficult trick is to get the pick-up line of someones mooring around the fibre glass part of the bow thruster as the vee of the hull section acts as a barb to keep the line in place. I know because I managed it when I was alone. I was there until a kind soul came along in a dinghy and released me.

Best wishes, John

Hello Joe and Dan,
The solenoid is a French one made by Valeo and I am looking at the one that
was replaced on my Yanmar last year. The info on it is......CEY 14
12v J99. It is a perfectly normal 12 volt solenoid as used on every motor
car etc. so if I were you I would get one at my local garage. On the Yanmar
it is very hard to get at but the mechanic took off the main heat exchanger
to service it and this made access to the solenoid, water pump etc much much
easier. I should add that to get it off he had to force the flexible exhaust
pipe forward to make enough space.
What puzzles me is the fact that a number of owners have had this problem.
Over the last 60 years I have never had solenoid problems with any motor
car. The one they removed appears to be as good as new, no signs of arcing
on the contacts and tests OK with a voltmeter. I meant to have it tested
last winter to confirm my suspicions but forgot. I suspect that the wiring
is a more likely cause for the failures.

When my SM2000 was nearly new I had a problem with fresh water leaking out of
the bottom of the tanks via the keel bolts which became obvious when the
boat was hauled out. Amel sent two technicians to deal with this under
warranty and I was amazed how quickly they disconnected the upright fridge
and the washing machine which they moved forwards out of the way.The hatch
on the aft tank is under the fridge and the fridge cannot be removed until the
washing machine is out of the way
I could then see the float which was much bigger than I imagined. If the construction
of your boat is similar you should be able to refix the float although the inspection hatch is not very big.
Let us know how you get on especially with the solenoid/wiring.

Best wishes from somewhere in the Adriatic, Anne and John
SM319

Ian,

Your solution would certainly work. We chose a different option. If
the bow thruster seals start to leak, we want to know it to that we
can replace them. So we installed a very loud water-intrusion alarm
in the forward bilge area. Since we started pinning the bowthruster
in the up position when sailing to weather, there has been no water
intrusion. But if the seals start to leak then we will know about it
immediately so that we can attend to the appropriate routine
maintenance of replacing the seals.

Judy
S/V BeBe
SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd"
<sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Hi Dave,

You are experiencing a common problem. The seals on the bow thruster

will

eventually leak and cause the lower forward bilge to slowly fill

with water

I mostly solved this by building up a rubber dam around the box

where the

bow thruster tube goes through the hull. To do this I used a 5" to 4.5"
rubber pipe converter that I found in one of those 'have everything'
hardware stores in the US. I fitted polythene tubing to connecters

on the

port and starboard sides of the dam (1 for each tack) and joined

them via a

Y connector to a single pipe that I connected to the chain locker

drain tube

via a brazed on barbed connector. This arrangement caught most of the
leakage and I was again able to use the under floor area as stowage.

Following a catastrophe with a SM 2000, Amel redesigned the whole of

the bow

thruster enclosure on later boats. Apart from getting rid of the

leather

curtain and enclosing the bow thruster behind a water tight access door,
they made the rear bow thruster bulkhead without the holes that

drain into

the bilge area. They fitted a drain pipe to the bulkhead that also

connected

to the chain drain pipe so that any water that leaks past the seals is
carried away to the engine room bilge.

This might be an easier option for you than my rubber dam solution.

I can't

be sure as I now have the later design and I don't recall the exact

details

of the earlier boat. It should not be too difficult to fibreglass in the
holes and fit a drain tube that connects to the valve assembly on

the chain

locker pipe.

Good luck

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

Whoops! Regarding the keel coating instructions, there's a typo. Of
Course 1' X 3" should be 1' X 3' or 30 cm X 91 cm. Sorry.

In response to Bob on Brittany de la Mer, the metal parts securing the
rudder to the skeg are stainless steel. Be sure to add some
texture/roughen up the surface before coating. There is a bronze
"DYNA-PLATE" on the actual skeg itself which should never be
painted. Usually a good pressure washing when hauled, followed by
using a bronze bristled hand brush will restore the "DYNA PLATE"
to it's original condition. This is the ground plate for SSB/HAM
radio and it won't work if it is painted.

Good Luck
Joel F. Potter, AMEL 54, Hull # 14, HOLLIS

There are some good posts on repacing your prop in the water (without
the special Amel in-water replacement gadget (which I know own).

Helpful advice was posted by John and Amy on a June 1, 2005 Posting.
Below is their advice and my ultimate response back with some further
suggestions:

"It is a doddle. I assume you have a spare prop which comes with the
boss which fits onto the drive shaft. Look at the boss and you will
see that has a hole through which there is a stainless pin which will
take the drive from the shaft. Your old prop has gone missing and so
on the drive shaft there is the old boss and pin or perhaps the old
pin has dropped out and the boss has also vanished.
You do not need to haul out or have the special kit if you can get a
scuba diver to remove the old boss and pin and fit the the new boss
and pin and then fit the prop and screw in the nylon screws. (If you
are unlucky the diver may need to use a similar size pin to drive out
the old one). At a pinch it could be done with a snorkel, I suspect.
Bingo! all is well. Just make sure that you always have a couple of
spare props for the next time. When you pay for them you will become
more careful about stray lines etc..
You do not say your hull no, Mine is 319 and I lost three in the first
couple of years but I have got better!"

My additions after sucessfully replacing it while floating in the water
wearing a life preserver and doing most of it by feel:

"Thanks everyone, for your advice and ideas on bow-thruster
replacement without short hauling the boat--I did replace it in the
water.

Everyone's advice was valid, but I thought I would share my
experience and ideas.

I was able to drive the old pin out, using a correctly sized
Craftsman punch with small taps from a hammer and grabing the end
with a Vice-Grip and twist/pulling it out the other end. Believe it
or not, I was able to do this hanging off my dingy with my son
holding the dingy into the boat. However, a better way, and one I
had to resort to to attach the prop--was simply floating next to the
bowthruster while wearing a PFD and reaching down with both hands to
work on it. I started out with a snorkle and mask but found (perhaps
due to the opacity of Chesapeake Bay water) that floating with the
head above water was easier.

First I hauled the thruster up about 2" to make it more accessable
under water--you only need access to the hub and this helps a little.
Next, I lightly sanded the inside edge of the prop that pushes onto
the collar and lubed the inside of this area of the prop with
Lanocoat. This helped it slide on easier and allowed me to rotate
it on the hub to line-up the six holes. I tied a keeper line around
one blade of the prop. Because it tapers out larger, this secures
the pricey little guy! I also had used a small nylon string to do
the same thing with the white collar by going through one of the
threaded holes. Working with both hands, I think that the best way
to push the prop on is to grab around the thruster with the fingers
of both hands and push the prop on simultaneously with both thumbs.
Lining up the six holes in the prop with the white collar was the
toughest task for me. I found that I had to back the prop off the
hub about half way and line up the holes with the punch and then ush
it on completly. Otherwise the prop and drive rotate together and I
could not line up the holes. Because the punch was smaller than the
holes I had to work it around in a circular motion to line up one of
the holes correctly. A better guide, like a plastic pen body might
be better. Lining up the holes was by far the most difficult task--
if you are in clear water, a snorkle and mask might let you do it
visually, but not in the Chesapeake! I had my son stand above me on
the deck and lower parts down with a bucket (including the nylon
screws--one at a time.

It wasn't too bad, but I will be buying the special tool. It sounds
like it is very useful if there are any complications, and of-course
could allow you to replace a seal or chack/change the 90wt oil.
Joel told me by phone that he has the process down to about 30
minutes."

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "dan_bergin" <captdan@...>
wrote:

Having trouble with reinstalling my Bow Thruster Prop. The old one
shattered it's blades and I was successful at removing the old prop
while the boat is still in the water. Maybe I am missing something

but

removing the 6 nylon screws was not enough to get the old prop off.

It

took lots of force and prying with a screw driver. No damage to the
nylon hub noted. I have both a new nylon hub and prop but cannot get
the new prop to slip on. Does anyone have a good way to reinstall a
prop???
Dan Bergin
SM #317
in port Vancouver, BC

Skeg question--(thanks for the detailed information, Joel)--Is the
skeg the same? I have a similar problem with some exposed metal on
the skeg of my 1993 Santorin. Do the same recommendations apply?

Bob
Brittany de la Mer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F. Potter"
<jfpottercys@...> wrote:

This comes from Joel Potter the boat owner not Joel Potter in any

capacity regarding my

professional work with my colleagues at AMEL. Sorry, my lawyer

insists on this.

Sorry for the delay on this post. Clients intervened and I

misplaced it. Just today I

was reminded by a patiently waiting friend that I had yet to post

it.

The most important thing to consider when repairing/replacing the

keel coatings are as

follows:

Select a well known and respected brand name for all the component

elements and DON'T MIX

any part with components from another manufacturer. This is

particularly important when

employing solvents/cleaners, thinners, bulking material,

catylizers, and fairing

compounds. To do so is almost always a recipe for disaster. Use

epoxy materials. Do not

use polyester.

Read the instructions. Read them again. And again…Instructions

are there for a reason

and each brand has it's own quirks. Be sure to understand the

entire process completely

from start to finish before you begin. Just good common sense

here. Sorry…

When considering to repair or entirely replace the coatings on the

external iron ballast,

consider age as well as condition. Ten to fifteen years, on the

average, seems to be the

life span for the epoxy coatings in warm Caribbean water. Colder

water is not as harsh an

environment so you can count on a few more years generally.

Buy a small amount of epoxy and solvent of the brand of your

choice. Sand a well attached

area of the present keel coating to remove the bottom

paint/antifouling only. Heavily

saturate a shop towel with the chosen solvent and secure it firmly

to the exposed keel

coatings. Keep an eye on it for spontaneous combustion in

hot/humid areas (ask me how I

know this!) Mix a small batch of epoxy and spread it on the

present keel coatings (after

sanding off the anti-fouling) fairly thick about 3"x 3" x ¼". Have

a beer. Have another

one. After the solvent has evaporated and the epoxy hardened, look

for bubbling or

lifting around the edges. Go home for the evening.

Next day, scrape firmly on the solvent soaked area and the new

epoxy "patch". Are the

original coatings solid? Any evidence of loss of adhesion or

bubbling? If so you have

two choices. Try the same process with another brand of

replacement materials or remove

ALL the coatings on the iron keel before replacing it all. If your

coatings are near the

end of their life expectancy, this last suggestion is usually for

the best overall

solution.

However you remove the original keel coatings remember, ALL THIS

STUFF IS POISON. IT WILL

MAKE YOU WISH YOU HAD DIED IF IT DOESN'T KILL YOU. Wear a plastic

toxic exposure suit,

and an appropriate respirator, eye protection and foam ear plugs.

Gloves are essential.

All of the epoxy coatings that have proven to work effectively have

two things in common

in the preparation phase of the iron keel. These are:

1. The keel should be sanded/grinded/soda or sand blasted until

ONLY

BRIGHT SHINY iron is exposed. No residual coatings or

corrosion

is to be tolerated. The iron should look like silver.

2. From the time the iron keel is prepared to it's bright shiny

state, you

have at best a matter of a very few minutes to get the

primer/sealer coat

on the bright metal. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ELEMENT
OF THIS REPAIR. If you wait more than a couple of minutes,

rust

begins at a microscopic level where you can't see it, but it is

there. This

will cause the spread of this rust/oxidation once the iron is

coated and

anti-fouled and will greatly reduce the life of the repair. I

had one

unfortunate acquaintance who sand blasted his keel in the

afternoon

and coated it the next morning. It was good material from

International

and it all, and I mean ALL came unattached in three weeks

time. I

always prepare and coat an area of about 1' X 3" before moving

on to

the next section of keel.

I digress here but this is important. Your AMEL keel is IRON. Not

STEEL. There is quite

a difference.

I try to use all materials, including bottom paint/anti-fouling

from one manufacturer.

It's easier to get a satisfactory resolution to any eventual

problem when all fingers

point in one direction.

Good luck. Don't forget the respirator…

Joel Potter
AMEL 54, Hull # 14, HOLLIS









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Dan,

The nylon prop screws hold the prop on the prop hub which has a
stainless pin that goes through the prop shaft. After you remove the
(old) screws and the prop, you should press the pin out and remove the
(old) prop hub.

If I remember correctly, the replacement prop comes comes screwed to
the hub. You will have to remove the (new)prop from the hub to be
able to mount the hub on the shaft with its stainless pin. Once this
is done, you can screw the (new) prop on...This may sound confusing,
but once you have done it, you will see it is fairly straight forward.

Best,

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v BeBe
SM2 #387

This comes from Joel Potter the boat owner not Joel Potter in any capacity regarding my
professional work with my colleagues at AMEL. Sorry, my lawyer insists on this.

Sorry for the delay on this post. Clients intervened and I misplaced it. Just today I
was reminded by a patiently waiting friend that I had yet to post it.

The most important thing to consider when repairing/replacing the keel coatings are as
follows:

Select a well known and respected brand name for all the component elements and DON'T MIX
any part with components from another manufacturer. This is particularly important when
employing solvents/cleaners, thinners, bulking material, catylizers, and fairing
compounds. To do so is almost always a recipe for disaster. Use epoxy materials. Do not
use polyester.

Read the instructions. Read them again. And again…Instructions are there for a reason
and each brand has it's own quirks. Be sure to understand the entire process completely
from start to finish before you begin. Just good common sense here. Sorry…

When considering to repair or entirely replace the coatings on the external iron ballast,
consider age as well as condition. Ten to fifteen years, on the average, seems to be the
life span for the epoxy coatings in warm Caribbean water. Colder water is not as harsh an
environment so you can count on a few more years generally.

Buy a small amount of epoxy and solvent of the brand of your choice. Sand a well attached
area of the present keel coating to remove the bottom paint/antifouling only. Heavily
saturate a shop towel with the chosen solvent and secure it firmly to the exposed keel
coatings. Keep an eye on it for spontaneous combustion in hot/humid areas (ask me how I
know this!) Mix a small batch of epoxy and spread it on the present keel coatings (after
sanding off the anti-fouling) fairly thick about 3"x 3" x ¼". Have a beer. Have another
one. After the solvent has evaporated and the epoxy hardened, look for bubbling or
lifting around the edges. Go home for the evening.

Next day, scrape firmly on the solvent soaked area and the new epoxy "patch". Are the
original coatings solid? Any evidence of loss of adhesion or bubbling? If so you have
two choices. Try the same process with another brand of replacement materials or remove
ALL the coatings on the iron keel before replacing it all. If your coatings are near the
end of their life expectancy, this last suggestion is usually for the best overall
solution.

However you remove the original keel coatings remember, ALL THIS STUFF IS POISON. IT WILL
MAKE YOU WISH YOU HAD DIED IF IT DOESN'T KILL YOU. Wear a plastic toxic exposure suit,
and an appropriate respirator, eye protection and foam ear plugs. Gloves are essential.

All of the epoxy coatings that have proven to work effectively have two things in common
in the preparation phase of the iron keel. These are:

1. The keel should be sanded/grinded/soda or sand blasted until ONLY
BRIGHT SHINY iron is exposed. No residual coatings or corrosion
is to be tolerated. The iron should look like silver.

2. From the time the iron keel is prepared to it's bright shiny state, you
have at best a matter of a very few minutes to get the primer/sealer coat
on the bright metal. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT ELEMENT
OF THIS REPAIR. If you wait more than a couple of minutes, rust
begins at a microscopic level where you can't see it, but it is there. This
will cause the spread of this rust/oxidation once the iron is coated and
anti-fouled and will greatly reduce the life of the repair. I had one
unfortunate acquaintance who sand blasted his keel in the afternoon
and coated it the next morning. It was good material from International
and it all, and I mean ALL came unattached in three weeks time. I
always prepare and coat an area of about 1' X 3" before moving on to
the next section of keel.

I digress here but this is important. Your AMEL keel is IRON. Not STEEL. There is quite
a difference.

I try to use all materials, including bottom paint/anti-fouling from one manufacturer.
It's easier to get a satisfactory resolution to any eventual problem when all fingers
point in one direction.

Good luck. Don't forget the respirator…

Joel Potter
AMEL 54, Hull # 14, HOLLIS









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Thanks, Ian;
Since putting in the bowthruster pin I've noticed no more water. But
I've just been at dock. We'll see what happens next time I go
sailing. I also plan to change the bowthruster seals soon. I imagine
Amel has those seals? Who do I contact at Amel for these kinds of
parts. Olivier? Please advise.
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd"
<sv_freespirit@...> wrote:

Hi Dave,

You are experiencing a common problem. The seals on the bow thruster

will

eventually leak and cause the lower forward bilge to slowly fill

with water

I mostly solved this by building up a rubber dam around the box

where the

bow thruster tube goes through the hull. To do this I used a 5" to 4.5"
rubber pipe converter that I found in one of those 'have everything'
hardware stores in the US. I fitted polythene tubing to connecters

on the

port and starboard sides of the dam (1 for each tack) and joined

them via a

Y connector to a single pipe that I connected to the chain locker

drain tube

via a brazed on barbed connector. This arrangement caught most of the
leakage and I was again able to use the under floor area as stowage.

Following a catastrophe with a SM 2000, Amel redesigned the whole of

the bow

thruster enclosure on later boats. Apart from getting rid of the

leather

curtain and enclosing the bow thruster behind a water tight access door,
they made the rear bow thruster bulkhead without the holes that

drain into

the bilge area. They fitted a drain pipe to the bulkhead that also

connected

to the chain drain pipe so that any water that leaks past the seals is
carried away to the engine room bilge.

This might be an easier option for you than my rubber dam solution.

I can't

be sure as I now have the later design and I don't recall the exact

details

of the earlier boat. It should not be too difficult to fibreglass in the
holes and fit a drain tube that connects to the valve assembly on

the chain

locker pipe.

Good luck

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

-------Original Message-------

From: drdavegoodman
Date: 06/30/07 06:05:28
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward bildge water

Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@> wrote:

The editor dropped the decimal point . my thruster takes 3/10 of a

liter

of oil.
Eric


-----Original Message-----
From: kimberlt [mailto:kimberlt@]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Gary,
Where are you located?

We rebuilt the bow thruster as we were getting water and oil

coming into

the bilge due to the thruster leaking at the rear seal.
The rebuild is very straight forward if the boat is out of the

water. If

you boat is in the water you can remove it by using the bow thruster
removal tools.
The removal of the thruster is covered in the manual.
Once you have the thruster out turn it upside down to drain the oil.
Having done this remove the prop. Behind this you will find a lip seal
similar to the one on the prop shaft except smaller. Just pry it out
grease a new one and install it. It can be pushed in very easily. It
appeared Amel uses some blue silicone to hold it in on the outside
surface.
On the thruster's vertical shaft, you will find two foam seals

that are

just removed by hand. Glue two new ones in place. Where the thruster
goes through the hull there is another lip seal held in by two screws.
Just remove this and install a new one. On top of this seal was

another

spongy disk seal, which we also glued down. Then just fill the

thruster

with point 3 (3 liters) of 90 weight oil.
I believe thrusters vary from boat to boat as Bel Ami, which was

next to

me, took ¾ liter of oil, and has a different mounting arrangement. My
owner's manual has a good drawing of the cross section of the bow
thruster.

Will you be in the virgins mid February?

Fair winds,
Eric
S/m 376 Kimberlite.

-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Hi Eric:
I saw your boat at Marina Cay in Road Town a couple of weeks ago.
Looked bristol. Could you please describe in detail the bow
thruster seal service process? What do you need to check on the
rudder screws? Do you just need to check that they are tight?
Thanks, Gary Silver Liahona Hull # 335 Sea Cow Bay, Tortola

-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@o...> wrote:

Stephan,
We just had our bottom done. It was sanded and we had 2 coats of

pettit

ultima ablative paint applied. We used 5 gallons.
I also replaced the two lip seals for the bow thruster- one on the
thruster shaft and one in the thruster through hull opening and 3

spongy

inserts. You should also replace the wearing out bearing and the 3

seals

on the prop shaft and the sail drive oil. The zincs on the rudder

and

the zinc and bearings on the weed cutter if you have one. Also,

check

the screws in the rudder hinge.
Fair winds,
Eric
SM 376 kimberlite

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Looking for the part number or more info for the Start Solenoid. The
one that fails and has the black rubber push button on the bottom that
you can push to get the engine to start. It has been acting
intermitenetly over the past few months.

Dan Bergin
SM#317 PAPA II
in port Vancouver, BC
captdan@sailpapa.com
801-556-7858

Having trouble with reinstalling my Bow Thruster Prop. The old one
shattered it's blades and I was successful at removing the old prop
while the boat is still in the water. Maybe I am missing something but
removing the 6 nylon screws was not enough to get the old prop off. It
took lots of force and prying with a screw driver. No damage to the
nylon hub noted. I have both a new nylon hub and prop but cannot get
the new prop to slip on. Does anyone have a good way to reinstall a
prop???
Dan Bergin
SM #317
in port Vancouver, BC

Hi All
A Question for the Forum. The float attached to the end of the water
tank indicator appears to have detached itself from the rod. Is it, as
I suspect, going to be a pain to fix and has anyone had to deal with
this problem. As ever any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks Joe McDonnell

Judy;
There is no toggle switch that I can see in front of the bowthruster
securing pin. I have a 1998 AM, #230. What year/# is yours?
Dave

Hi Dave,

You are experiencing a common problem. The seals on the bow thruster will
eventually leak and cause the lower forward bilge to slowly fill with water
I mostly solved this by building up a rubber dam around the box where the
bow thruster tube goes through the hull. To do this I used a 5" to 4.5"
rubber pipe converter that I found in one of those 'have everything'
hardware stores in the US. I fitted polythene tubing to connecters on the
port and starboard sides of the dam (1 for each tack) and joined them via a
Y connector to a single pipe that I connected to the chain locker drain tube
via a brazed on barbed connector. This arrangement caught most of the
leakage and I was again able to use the under floor area as stowage.

Following a catastrophe with a SM 2000, Amel redesigned the whole of the bow
thruster enclosure on later boats. Apart from getting rid of the leather
curtain and enclosing the bow thruster behind a water tight access door,
they made the rear bow thruster bulkhead without the holes that drain into
the bilge area. They fitted a drain pipe to the bulkhead that also connected
to the chain drain pipe so that any water that leaks past the seals is
carried away to the engine room bilge.

This might be an easier option for you than my rubber dam solution. I can't
be sure as I now have the later design and I don't recall the exact details
of the earlier boat. It should not be too difficult to fibreglass in the
holes and fit a drain tube that connects to the valve assembly on the chain
locker pipe.

Good luck

Ian Shepherd SM 414 Crusader

I am very interested in this product but on line they only seem available
from the States.
Has any owner found a European sailmaker marketing anything similar
to the Slap Silencer?

Rob. SM 'Accolade' (S.France)

From: rbenven44 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
Date: 2007/07/01 Sun AM 04:04:23 BST
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Slap Silencer

After 24 years of Amel ownership, we have finally found a solution
for the single biggest issue we had with the boats: the slapping noise
in the aft cabin. The Slap Silencer, a simple bridle one drapes over
the stern of the boat, eliminates 90% of the slapping noise, at anchor
or especially at a dock, when the wind comes from the stern.

We offer our stong endorsement of this product, mentioned in the
past on this web site. It is well designed, very well constructed, and
extremely easy to use. It takes me less than one minute to install,
single handed, and less than that to remove. It is easy to store, and
takes up little space in the aft locker. And it works!

Find information on the product and where to buy at SlapSilencer.com

Regards to all,

Roy on Excalibur, SM #195

-----------------------------------------
Email sent from www.virginmedia.com/email
Virus-checked using McAfee(R) Software and scanned for spam

Dave,

To answer your first question, there is no danger because to insert
the pin you have to turn off the toggle switch that is located in
front of the pin hole. With the toggle switch off the bow thruster
cannot be operated at the helm.

Regarding your second question, I am not sure. We were concerned that
we might not adjust it properly so when we were in Guadeloupe, we
asked Amel to adjust it. That is when Laurent at Amel-Guadeloupe said
it was adjusted properly and showed us how to pull on the wire cable
to move it the last 1/2".

Regarding a bilge pump for this area, we believe that it is designed
to remain dry. If you service the bow thruster and you secure it with
the locking pin, it will remain dry.

Best,

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v BeBe
SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "drdavegoodman"
<drdavegoodman@...> wrote:

Hi Judy and Eric
Thanks for your responses.
Two questions:
1. Is there any danger of damaging the mechanism that lowers the
bowthruster if the pin has it fixed in the up position and you forget
to remove it while lowering the bowthruster?
2. When adjusting the bowthruster cable, I assume you do that when
the bowthruster is in the down position?
Dave

Hi to all,



I had the same problem and I installed a small bilge pump in the bilge close
to the depth sounder through hull. The sea water goes to the same brass duct
as the water from the shower I had just made a new one with one more inlet
where I fixed the hose from the new bilge pump. The pump has also a small
control unit which I installed easily close to the towel drier similar to
the jabsco control of the wc but just lower. It looks fine and works very
well I think that Amel should have thought of that the total cost is around
150 Dollars. I can send photos if anyone is interested.



Dimitris



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drdavegoodman
Sent: Sunday, July 01, 2007 3:40 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forward bildge water



Hi Judy and Eric
Thanks for your responses.
Two questions:
1. Is there any danger of damaging the mechanism that lowers the
bowthruster if the pin has it fixed in the up position and you forget
to remove it while lowering the bowthruster?
2. When adjusting the bowthruster cable, I assume you do that when
the bowthruster is in the down position?
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> , eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Judy,

I adjusted the cables and motor so that the hole lines up and that

the seals

are properly compressed. This prevents water ingress and makes life

a lot

easier when retracting the bow thruster.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf Of Judy

Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 7:42 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forward bildge water



Dave,

We replaced the seals and still continued to get a small amount of
water while sailing especially sailing to weather. We had noticed
that the bow thruster did not appear to raise all the way up because
the holes for the locking pin did not align.

While we were in Guadeloupe we asked Laurent at Amel to adjust the bow
thruster height. He looked at it and said it was adjusted correctly
and told us we needed to manually raise the bow thruster the
additional 1/2" which would align the holes and allow the locking pin
to be inserted. He said that by raising it this last 1/2" and
inserting the locking pin water would be prevented from coming in
around the seals. He showed us how to raise the bow thruster and
insert the pin by pulling the "lifting wire" inward (toward me) which
raises it another 1/2" and aligns the holes. Since our visit at Amel
in Guadeloupe, we have had no water in the bilge.

Is there any possibility that you have done any sailing without having
the bowthruster locked (pinned)? If so, you would have probably
received a slight amount of water in the forward bilge as you have
described. If you have never sailed without having the bowthruster
pinned in the locked position, then you have the correct assumption
that it is time to replace the seals.

Judy & Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe
SM2 # 387

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "drdavegoodman"
<drdavegoodman@> wrote:

Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave

Hi Judy and Eric
Thanks for your responses.
Two questions:
1. Is there any danger of damaging the mechanism that lowers the
bowthruster if the pin has it fixed in the up position and you forget
to remove it while lowering the bowthruster?
2. When adjusting the bowthruster cable, I assume you do that when
the bowthruster is in the down position?
Dave


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Judy,

I adjusted the cables and motor so that the hole lines up and that

the seals

are properly compressed. This prevents water ingress and makes life

a lot

easier when retracting the bow thruster.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 7:42 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forward bildge water



Dave,

We replaced the seals and still continued to get a small amount of
water while sailing especially sailing to weather. We had noticed
that the bow thruster did not appear to raise all the way up because
the holes for the locking pin did not align.

While we were in Guadeloupe we asked Laurent at Amel to adjust the bow
thruster height. He looked at it and said it was adjusted correctly
and told us we needed to manually raise the bow thruster the
additional 1/2" which would align the holes and allow the locking pin
to be inserted. He said that by raising it this last 1/2" and
inserting the locking pin water would be prevented from coming in
around the seals. He showed us how to raise the bow thruster and
insert the pin by pulling the "lifting wire" inward (toward me) which
raises it another 1/2" and aligns the holes. Since our visit at Amel
in Guadeloupe, we have had no water in the bilge.

Is there any possibility that you have done any sailing without having
the bowthruster locked (pinned)? If so, you would have probably
received a slight amount of water in the forward bilge as you have
described. If you have never sailed without having the bowthruster
pinned in the locked position, then you have the correct assumption
that it is time to replace the seals.

Judy & Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe
SM2 # 387

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "drdavegoodman"
<drdavegoodman@> wrote:

Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

After 24 years of Amel ownership, we have finally found a solution
for the single biggest issue we had with the boats: the slapping noise
in the aft cabin. The Slap Silencer, a simple bridle one drapes over
the stern of the boat, eliminates 90% of the slapping noise, at anchor
or especially at a dock, when the wind comes from the stern.

We offer our stong endorsement of this product, mentioned in the
past on this web site. It is well designed, very well constructed, and
extremely easy to use. It takes me less than one minute to install,
single handed, and less than that to remove. It is easy to store, and
takes up little space in the aft locker. And it works!

Find information on the product and where to buy at SlapSilencer.com

Regards to all,

Roy on Excalibur, SM #195

Judy,

I adjusted the cables and motor so that the hole lines up and that the seals
are properly compressed. This prevents water ingress and makes life a lot
easier when retracting the bow thruster.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 7:42 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Forward bildge water



Dave,

We replaced the seals and still continued to get a small amount of
water while sailing especially sailing to weather. We had noticed
that the bow thruster did not appear to raise all the way up because
the holes for the locking pin did not align.

While we were in Guadeloupe we asked Laurent at Amel to adjust the bow
thruster height. He looked at it and said it was adjusted correctly
and told us we needed to manually raise the bow thruster the
additional 1/2" which would align the holes and allow the locking pin
to be inserted. He said that by raising it this last 1/2" and
inserting the locking pin water would be prevented from coming in
around the seals. He showed us how to raise the bow thruster and
insert the pin by pulling the "lifting wire" inward (toward me) which
raises it another 1/2" and aligns the holes. Since our visit at Amel
in Guadeloupe, we have had no water in the bilge.

Is there any possibility that you have done any sailing without having
the bowthruster locked (pinned)? If so, you would have probably
received a slight amount of water in the forward bilge as you have
described. If you have never sailed without having the bowthruster
pinned in the locked position, then you have the correct assumption
that it is time to replace the seals.

Judy & Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe
SM2 # 387

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "drdavegoodman"
<drdavegoodman@...> wrote: