Dave,

We replaced the seals and still continued to get a small amount of
water while sailing especially sailing to weather. We had noticed
that the bow thruster did not appear to raise all the way up because
the holes for the locking pin did not align.

While we were in Guadeloupe we asked Laurent at Amel to adjust the bow
thruster height. He looked at it and said it was adjusted correctly
and told us we needed to manually raise the bow thruster the
additional 1/2" which would align the holes and allow the locking pin
to be inserted. He said that by raising it this last 1/2" and
inserting the locking pin water would be prevented from coming in
around the seals. He showed us how to raise the bow thruster and
insert the pin by pulling the "lifting wire" inward (toward me) which
raises it another 1/2" and aligns the holes. Since our visit at Amel
in Guadeloupe, we have had no water in the bilge.

Is there any possibility that you have done any sailing without having
the bowthruster locked (pinned)? If so, you would have probably
received a slight amount of water in the forward bilge as you have
described. If you have never sailed without having the bowthruster
pinned in the locked position, then you have the correct assumption
that it is time to replace the seals.

Judy & Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe
SM2 # 387



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "drdavegoodman"
<drdavegoodman@...> wrote:

Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave

Would some kind owner presently onboard their Mango or SM please put a vernier caliper on
the forestay and let me know the size. Mine is 10mm but I'm being told that may be under-
rigged. Second, does anyone have experience of replacing the genoa furling system with a
Profurl C430 or C480?

Regards, Roger, Zorba, Mango 28

Hi Dave

I think I've reported before that I get water in the same place
forward, but it's from rainwater coming down the mast. I've tried all
sorts to stop it, so far without luck. You should find a trail of
water either from the bowthruster or down the mast compression post
(even perhaps behind the trim, which is nasty for rot).

Regards, Roger, Zorba, Mango 28


On 30/06/2007, at 4:05 PM, drdavegoodman wrote:

Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@...> wrote:

The editor dropped the decimal point . my thruster takes 3/10 of

a liter

of oil.
Eric


-----Original Message-----
From: kimberlt [mailto:kimberlt@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Gary,
Where are you located?

We rebuilt the bow thruster as we were getting water and oil

coming into

the bilge due to the thruster leaking at the rear seal.
The rebuild is very straight forward if the boat is out of the

water. If

you boat is in the water you can remove it by using the bow thruster
removal tools.
The removal of the thruster is covered in the manual.
Once you have the thruster out turn it upside down to drain the oil.
Having done this remove the prop. Behind this you will find a lip

seal

similar to the one on the prop shaft except smaller. Just pry it out
grease a new one and install it. It can be pushed in very easily. It
appeared Amel uses some blue silicone to hold it in on the outside
surface.
On the thruster's vertical shaft, you will find two foam seals

that are

just removed by hand. Glue two new ones in place. Where the thruster
goes through the hull there is another lip seal held in by two

screws.

Just remove this and install a new one. On top of this seal was

another

spongy disk seal, which we also glued down. Then just fill the

thruster

with point 3 (3 liters) of 90 weight oil.
I believe thrusters vary from boat to boat as Bel Ami, which was

next to

me, took ¾ liter of oil, and has a different mounting

arrangement. My

owner's manual has a good drawing of the cross section of the bow
thruster.

Will you be in the virgins mid February?

Fair winds,
Eric
S/m 376 Kimberlite.

-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroups.com]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Hi Eric:
I saw your boat at Marina Cay in Road Town a couple of weeks ago.
Looked bristol. Could you please describe in detail the bow
thruster seal service process? What do you need to check on the
rudder screws? Do you just need to check that they are tight?
Thanks, Gary Silver Liahona Hull # 335 Sea Cow Bay, Tortola

-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@o...>

wrote:

Stephan,
We just had our bottom done. It was sanded and we had 2 coats of

pettit

ultima ablative paint applied. We used 5 gallons.
I also replaced the two lip seals for the bow thruster- one on the
thruster shaft and one in the thruster through hull opening and 3

spongy

inserts. You should also replace the wearing out bearing and the 3

seals

on the prop shaft and the sail drive oil. The zincs on the rudder

and

the zinc and bearings on the weed cutter if you have one. Also,

check

the screws in the rudder hinge.
Fair winds,
Eric
SM 376 kimberlite

Yahoo! Groups Sponsor


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M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/D=eg

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Dave,

Is the water oily that is in the bilge?

What is the year of your boat?

Is it a super Maramu?

The owners’ manual will not help you to change the bow thruster seals.

Maybe I can help you.

where are you located?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drdavegoodman
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 2:05 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Forward bildge water



Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@...> wrote:

The editor dropped the decimal point . my thruster takes 3/10 of a liter
of oil.
Eric


-----Original Message-----
From: kimberlt [mailto:kimberlt@...]
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

yahoogroups.com

Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Gary,
Where are you located?

We rebuilt the bow thruster as we were getting water and oil coming into
the bilge due to the thruster leaking at the rear seal.
The rebuild is very straight forward if the boat is out of the water. If
you boat is in the water you can remove it by using the bow thruster
removal tools.
The removal of the thruster is covered in the manual.
Once you have the thruster out turn it upside down to drain the oil.
Having done this remove the prop. Behind this you will find a lip seal
similar to the one on the prop shaft except smaller. Just pry it out
grease a new one and install it. It can be pushed in very easily. It
appeared Amel uses some blue silicone to hold it in on the outside
surface.
On the thruster's vertical shaft, you will find two foam seals that are
just removed by hand. Glue two new ones in place. Where the thruster
goes through the hull there is another lip seal held in by two screws.
Just remove this and install a new one. On top of this seal was another
spongy disk seal, which we also glued down. Then just fill the thruster
with point 3 (3 liters) of 90 weight oil.
I believe thrusters vary from boat to boat as Bel Ami, which was next to
me, took ¾ liter of oil, and has a different mounting arrangement. My
owner's manual has a good drawing of the cross section of the bow
thruster.

Will you be in the virgins mid February?

Fair winds,
Eric
S/m 376 Kimberlite.

-----Original Message-----
From: amelliahona [mailto:no_reply@yahoogroup

<mailto:no_reply%40yahoogroups.com> s.com]

Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 12:12 AM
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

yahoogroups.com

Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Annual Haul Out

Hi Eric:
I saw your boat at Marina Cay in Road Town a couple of weeks ago.
Looked bristol. Could you please describe in detail the bow
thruster seal service process? What do you need to check on the
rudder screws? Do you just need to check that they are tight?
Thanks, Gary Silver Liahona Hull # 335 Sea Cow Bay, Tortola

-- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

yahoogroups.com, kimberlt <kimberlt@o...> wrote:

Stephan,
We just had our bottom done. It was sanded and we had 2 coats of

pettit

ultima ablative paint applied. We used 5 gallons.
I also replaced the two lip seals for the bow thruster- one on the
thruster shaft and one in the thruster through hull opening and 3

spongy

inserts. You should also replace the wearing out bearing and the 3

seals

on the prop shaft and the sail drive oil. The zincs on the rudder

and

the zinc and bearings on the weed cutter if you have one. Also,

check

the screws in the rudder hinge.
Fair winds,
Eric
SM 376 kimberlite

Yahoo! Groups Sponsor


ADVERTISEMENT

<http://rd.yahoo.

<http://rd.yahoo.com/SIG=12cst830c/M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/D=eg>
com/SIG=12cst830c/M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/D=eg

roupweb/S=1705065792:HM/EXP=1075093941/A=1945638/R=0/*http:/www.netflix.
com/Default?mqso=60178383&partid=4116732> click here


<http://us.adserver.

<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/D=egrou>
yahoo.com/l?M=267637.4116732.5333197.1261774/D=egrou

pmail/S=:HM/A=1945638/rand=468978337>

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Service.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello all;
In the process of preparing to install an electric toilet in the
forward head, I checked the forward bildge next to the head where the
seawater intake thru hull is located. I found a small amount of water
(1-2 inches) in the bildge. I did some investigating on the owners
site and found the info below, Kimberit and others indicate the
likely source is the bowthruster needing seal replacement, and further
indicates this can be done in while in the water using "bowthruster
removal tools." The info I have on board about the bowthruster is
very sketchy. I have contacted Amel for a boat manual several days
ago but so far they have been unresponsive. Any further advice would
be appreciated.
Thanks
Dave

Dear Judy and Ian,
if you want 350,000 Euros for Pen Azen .....here we are! We would like to do a big bargain, as you suggested.
How are you? All is ok with us. We had very hot weather and no wind at all during our 7 days sailing in Croazia.
Where are you now?
Kisses
Mariolina and Giorgio

---------- Initial Header -----------

From : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To : amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Cc :
Date : Fri, 29 Jun 2007 12:59:51 +0000
Subject : [Amel Yacht Owners] Insurance valuations

Second hand S M s remain an extraordinary bargain. I have just heard of
of a 2000 launched SM in reasonable shape in the Med. changing hands for
Euros 350,000. With nearly 500 built there will inevitably be about 50 on
the market in any year. Nice if you want to buy! Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen
Azen, SM 302

_________________________________________________________________
The next generation of Hotmail is here! http://www.newhotmail.co.uk

------------------------------------------------------
Leggi GRATIS le tue mail con il telefonino i-mode™ di Wind
http://i-mode.wind.it/

-Hello Dave,

We are aboard SM #266 and have salt water flushing and Jabsco Quiet
Flush heads. We are pleased with the performance and ease of
maintanence. On our boat (factory installation) the salt water is
supplied by two Jabsco Par4 pumps (no pressure vessel required).
They get their make up water from the strainer/sea chest. One for
the fwd. head and one for the aft head. I have had to change out one
of the Par4 pumps and found it on Ebay for about $90.00 (don't
remember the exact amount), rebuilt the old one as a spare. We have
also had to change out the macerator pumps at the head itself, and
carry two spares.

The only negative we have found with salt water, is an occasional
odor if the head is not used for a few days. Of course if you are in
a nasty ol' harbor, the make up water is foul to begin with. We are
seldom in harbors, so this is not a problem for us.

Good Sailing (and flushing!)

Tony Gray
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266



-- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "drdavegoodman"
<drdavegoodman@...> wrote:

Greetings all;
I am installing Jabsco electric quiet flush heads on a 1998 SM and
researching freshwater vs salt water flush. I have received
conflicting info on this topic and hope that someone has some
experience they can share. Amel recommended I use the 24v Jabsco
electric quite flush connected to saltwater. These require a
pressurized water intake system, minimum 3.5 GPM. If I use the
existing sea water connection, I must install a pressure pump for

each

head. If I tap into the freshwater system going to the sinks and
showers, this is already pressurized, and I do not need to install

an

additional pump. There are many advantages to using freshwater vs
seawater. However there are 2 main concerns that I can see (1)
depleting your freshwater with flushing and (2) freshwater system
contamination. The first concern is answered by the fact that our
boat has a watermaker that can easily keep up with demand, and the
boat carries 1000 liters (about 250 gallons?) of water. The second
concern is answered by use of the electric solenoid valve in the
freshwater intake line (placed near the toilet, about 6 inches above
the toilet intake)which eliminates the possibility of
back-contamination. Any advise in this matter would be greatly
appreciated.
Dave on Bel Ami


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John & Ruth Martin"
<jjmartin24@> wrote:

Hello All

Has anyone with an SM connected their toilets to the ship's fresh

water

supply ? I have studied the plumbing and it seems it would be

easy. I

would cut the salt water intake hose for the toilets and insert a

valve.

Then I would cut the fresh water hose (before it goes to the pump)

and place

a valve there with a hose teed to the salt water intake. I would

then cut

off the salt water and open the fresh water. This would make the

toilets

smell fresher and be less corrosive to the toilet components than

salt

water. If berthed at a marina with abundant fresh water, it

seems

like

this would be a good idea, especially if in a dirty harbor. When

going

cruising, I could easily convert back to the salt water flush. I

would

welcome any comments.

Also, in reading up on the SM, I've found a little known problem

regarding

the proper lifting points (when using straps, not hooking to the

lifting

eyes) for the boat. It appears that the proper place for the aft

lifting

straps is exactly where the aft lifting eye is located; but the

proper place

for the forward lifting strap is aligned with the hatch of the

forward head,

not aligned with the forward lifting eye. If you position the

forward strap

at the forward eye, you can easily damage the speedo unit, which

is

aligned

with the forward eye. Some SM owners have mysteriously developed

leaks

around their speedos and this may be the reason.

Lastly, a pointer I just discovered using naval jelly. I've had

amazing

results using naval jelly to clean up stainless and chrome items

like

fishing reels, diving equipment, turnbuckles, etc. I apply the

naval jelly,

scrub with a toothbrush, let sit for 10 minutes, and the pieces

turn

out

like brand new !

Happy New Year to all,

John Martin
SM #248 "Moon Dog"




_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus

Second hand S M s remain an extraordinary bargain. I have just heard of of a 2000 launched SM in reasonable shape in the Med. changing hands for Euros 350,000. With nearly 500 built there will inevitably be about 50 on the market in any year. Nice if you want to buy! Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302

_________________________________________________________________
The next generation of Hotmail is here! http://www.newhotmail.co.uk

Hello,
Can anybody help me with following:
My Yanmar 100hk engine is abt 5 years - 500 hrs. Two years ago I had
starting problems and a mechanic installed a relay which helped. Now
I hve same problems and a few weeks ago I cud not start at all and
the relay was changed for a new one. Now again it do not always start
before I try several times.
The battery is Ok, but the starter motor do not connect - only the
engine fan - after a few times trying with the ignition key it
starts. I believe it is a electronic problem, or maybe the starter
motor must be serviced. The starter motor is very difficult to come
to. Grateful yr adv.
Rgds Ivar Mylde
# SM53 Silfrania

To electrically isolate the engine AMEL installs a second selonoid in the
ground side of the started motor circuit. If this selonoid does not activate
properly the engine will not start. Your problem sounds like a problem with
this selonoid. It is probably caused by either a fault in the selonoid or a poor
connection in the selonoid activation circuit.

The standard selonoid has a black rubber button at one end. If you hold this
button in while someone turns the starter key the engine should start. If it
starts you know the problem is as suggested above. Otherwise, it is possible,
although unlikely, that there is an intermittent fault somewhere else in the
starting circuits.
Since the starter does not turn, and when it does the engine starts, there
appears to be no problem with the engine, just with the power to the starter
motor or perhaps the brushes in the starter.

Good luck,

Charlie
MALAIKA II, SM #336
Barcelona, SPAIN



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

Thanks Eric. I've decided to hook into the original seawater supply.
While it may be harder on the equipment, I think it will be more
seaworthy in case of failures. I don't want to have to worry about
flushing away my freshwater supply in the event of a watermaker
failure, which is a bigger concern to me.
Thanks for your response.
Dave

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Dave,

There is an electric anti siphon valve that comes with the electric

flush

toilet for fresh water. All you have to do is to install the valve

in the

engine room and hook it up to the fresh water supply.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drdavegoodman
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 5:48 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] freshwater toilet flush



Greetings all;
I am installing Jabsco electric quiet flush heads on a 1998 SM and
researching freshwater vs salt water flush. I have received
conflicting info on this topic and hope that someone has some
experience they can share. Amel recommended I use the 24v Jabsco
electric quite flush connected to saltwater. These require a
pressurized water intake system, minimum 3.5 GPM. If I use the
existing sea water connection, I must install a pressure pump for each
head. If I tap into the freshwater system going to the sinks and
showers, this is already pressurized, and I do not need to install an
additional pump. There are many advantages to using freshwater vs
seawater. However there are 2 main concerns that I can see (1)
depleting your freshwater with flushing and (2) freshwater system
contamination. The first concern is answered by the fact that our
boat has a watermaker that can easily keep up with demand, and the
boat carries 1000 liters (about 250 gallons?) of water. The second
concern is answered by use of the electric solenoid valve in the
freshwater intake line (placed near the toilet, about 6 inches above
the toilet intake)which eliminates the possibility of
back-contamination. Any advise in this matter would be greatly
appreciated.
Dave on Bel Ami

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "John & Ruth Martin"
<jjmartin24@> wrote:

Hello All

Has anyone with an SM connected their toilets to the ship's fresh

water

supply ? I have studied the plumbing and it seems it would be easy. I
would cut the salt water intake hose for the toilets and insert a

valve.

Then I would cut the fresh water hose (before it goes to the pump)

and place

a valve there with a hose teed to the salt water intake. I would

then cut

off the salt water and open the fresh water. This would make the

toilets

smell fresher and be less corrosive to the toilet components than

salt

water. If berthed at a marina with abundant fresh water, it seems

like

this would be a good idea, especially if in a dirty harbor. When

going

cruising, I could easily convert back to the salt water flush. I

would

welcome any comments.

Also, in reading up on the SM, I've found a little known problem

regarding

the proper lifting points (when using straps, not hooking to the

lifting

eyes) for the boat. It appears that the proper place for the aft

lifting

straps is exactly where the aft lifting eye is located; but the

proper place

for the forward lifting strap is aligned with the hatch of the

forward head,

not aligned with the forward lifting eye. If you position the

forward strap

at the forward eye, you can easily damage the speedo unit, which is

aligned

with the forward eye. Some SM owners have mysteriously developed

leaks

around their speedos and this may be the reason.

Lastly, a pointer I just discovered using naval jelly. I've had

amazing

results using naval jelly to clean up stainless and chrome items like
fishing reels, diving equipment, turnbuckles, etc. I apply the

naval jelly,

scrub with a toothbrush, let sit for 10 minutes, and the pieces turn

out

like brand new !

Happy New Year to all,

John Martin
SM #248 "Moon Dog"




__________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
http://join. <http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus>

msn.com/?page=features/virus

Dave,

There is an electric anti siphon valve that comes with the electric flush
toilet for fresh water. All you have to do is to install the valve in the
engine room and hook it up to the fresh water supply.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drdavegoodman
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 5:48 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] freshwater toilet flush



Greetings all;
I am installing Jabsco electric quiet flush heads on a 1998 SM and
researching freshwater vs salt water flush. I have received
conflicting info on this topic and hope that someone has some
experience they can share. Amel recommended I use the 24v Jabsco
electric quite flush connected to saltwater. These require a
pressurized water intake system, minimum 3.5 GPM. If I use the
existing sea water connection, I must install a pressure pump for each
head. If I tap into the freshwater system going to the sinks and
showers, this is already pressurized, and I do not need to install an
additional pump. There are many advantages to using freshwater vs
seawater. However there are 2 main concerns that I can see (1)
depleting your freshwater with flushing and (2) freshwater system
contamination. The first concern is answered by the fact that our
boat has a watermaker that can easily keep up with demand, and the
boat carries 1000 liters (about 250 gallons?) of water. The second
concern is answered by use of the electric solenoid valve in the
freshwater intake line (placed near the toilet, about 6 inches above
the toilet intake)which eliminates the possibility of
back-contamination. Any advise in this matter would be greatly
appreciated.
Dave on Bel Ami

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "John & Ruth Martin"
<jjmartin24@...> wrote:

Hello All

Has anyone with an SM connected their toilets to the ship's fresh water
supply ? I have studied the plumbing and it seems it would be easy. I
would cut the salt water intake hose for the toilets and insert a

valve.

Then I would cut the fresh water hose (before it goes to the pump)

and place

a valve there with a hose teed to the salt water intake. I would

then cut

off the salt water and open the fresh water. This would make the

toilets

smell fresher and be less corrosive to the toilet components than salt
water. If berthed at a marina with abundant fresh water, it seems

like

this would be a good idea, especially if in a dirty harbor. When going
cruising, I could easily convert back to the salt water flush. I would
welcome any comments.

Also, in reading up on the SM, I've found a little known problem

regarding

the proper lifting points (when using straps, not hooking to the

lifting

eyes) for the boat. It appears that the proper place for the aft

lifting

straps is exactly where the aft lifting eye is located; but the

proper place

for the forward lifting strap is aligned with the hatch of the

forward head,

not aligned with the forward lifting eye. If you position the

forward strap

at the forward eye, you can easily damage the speedo unit, which is

aligned

with the forward eye. Some SM owners have mysteriously developed leaks
around their speedos and this may be the reason.

Lastly, a pointer I just discovered using naval jelly. I've had

amazing

results using naval jelly to clean up stainless and chrome items like
fishing reels, diving equipment, turnbuckles, etc. I apply the

naval jelly,

scrub with a toothbrush, let sit for 10 minutes, and the pieces turn

out

like brand new !

Happy New Year to all,

John Martin
SM #248 "Moon Dog"




__________________________________________________________
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I'm jealous! We did the Grenada to Isla Margarita passage at speeds
of 9.8 SOG with just genoa poled and preventers on main and mizzen.
You did far better. Congratulations on completion of a safe and fast
passage.

Judy
S/V BeBe
Amel SM2 #387

Greetings all;
I am installing Jabsco electric quiet flush heads on a 1998 SM and
researching freshwater vs salt water flush. I have received
conflicting info on this topic and hope that someone has some
experience they can share. Amel recommended I use the 24v Jabsco
electric quite flush connected to saltwater. These require a
pressurized water intake system, minimum 3.5 GPM. If I use the
existing sea water connection, I must install a pressure pump for each
head. If I tap into the freshwater system going to the sinks and
showers, this is already pressurized, and I do not need to install an
additional pump. There are many advantages to using freshwater vs
seawater. However there are 2 main concerns that I can see (1)
depleting your freshwater with flushing and (2) freshwater system
contamination. The first concern is answered by the fact that our
boat has a watermaker that can easily keep up with demand, and the
boat carries 1000 liters (about 250 gallons?) of water. The second
concern is answered by use of the electric solenoid valve in the
freshwater intake line (placed near the toilet, about 6 inches above
the toilet intake)which eliminates the possibility of
back-contamination. Any advise in this matter would be greatly
appreciated.
Dave on Bel Ami


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "John & Ruth Martin"
<jjmartin24@...> wrote:

Hello All

Has anyone with an SM connected their toilets to the ship's fresh water
supply ? I have studied the plumbing and it seems it would be easy. I
would cut the salt water intake hose for the toilets and insert a

valve.

Then I would cut the fresh water hose (before it goes to the pump)

and place

a valve there with a hose teed to the salt water intake. I would

then cut

off the salt water and open the fresh water. This would make the

toilets

smell fresher and be less corrosive to the toilet components than salt
water. If berthed at a marina with abundant fresh water, it seems

like

this would be a good idea, especially if in a dirty harbor. When going
cruising, I could easily convert back to the salt water flush. I would
welcome any comments.

Also, in reading up on the SM, I've found a little known problem

regarding

the proper lifting points (when using straps, not hooking to the

lifting

eyes) for the boat. It appears that the proper place for the aft

lifting

straps is exactly where the aft lifting eye is located; but the

proper place

for the forward lifting strap is aligned with the hatch of the

forward head,

not aligned with the forward lifting eye. If you position the

forward strap

at the forward eye, you can easily damage the speedo unit, which is

aligned

with the forward eye. Some SM owners have mysteriously developed leaks
around their speedos and this may be the reason.

Lastly, a pointer I just discovered using naval jelly. I've had

amazing

results using naval jelly to clean up stainless and chrome items like
fishing reels, diving equipment, turnbuckles, etc. I apply the

naval jelly,

scrub with a toothbrush, let sit for 10 minutes, and the pieces turn

out

like brand new !

Happy New Year to all,

John Martin
SM #248 "Moon Dog"




_________________________________________________________________
MSN 8 with e-mail virus protection service: 2 months FREE*
http://join.msn.com/?page=features/virus

Hello everybody,
I'm owner of An Euros with a cockpit remade in teak. Unfortunately the
installation was poor or the deck is very old (or both...). In any
case, I need to replace it. I'm not very fond of teak in a cruising
yacht (they are wonderful on a tradition/classic yacht, but beauty
being probably their only quality) and I'd like to replace with
something else. The original gelcoat has been badly damaged durig the
installation and I'm looking for some alternatives and suggestions. Has
anybody tried Flexiteek? I've heard of a product called "Aikon" but I
cannot find it on the web. Does anybody knows it? I was wondering about
the decking system of later Amel models, If I'm not mistaking it should
be some kind of anti-skidding gelcoat, am I right? I'd appreciate any
ideas, suggestions, informations and advices. Thank you all.
Mauro
Euros#166 Karyan

PS: By the way any other ideas on the cockpit table?

Hello all,

We set sail from Grenada bound for Boniare. We set the poles and both
head sails. The first 24 hours showed 202nm on the GPS over the bottom
and the second day clocked 199nm over the bottom. Yes, I know the
current was with us. The GPS showed an average of 8.4 kts. and a top
speed of 12.7. For us this was really moving!! We normally let the
sails breathe and take it easy, as the boat is way tougher than us, so
it was fun to be going so fast! What a please to be dry, safe and
comfy while getting where you want to go.

Tony
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266

Does anyone know who manufactured the seacocks used on the 1984 Amel
Sharki? I need to replace a handle and cannot identify the mfr. Thanks
for any input.

Dave,

We would use the Shadetree Awnings more often if:
1.) We were at one place for longer than a week or two.
2.) And if we did not have a custom extended bimini with shade panels
on the sides and back; we also have a large canvas shade awning which
was made in La Rochelle that covers from the main mast to the mizzen.

We think Shadetree is a good product. It actually provides a greater
area of shade than our other two systems; however, our other systems
are quicker to rig. We are on the move quite often and having a third
shade system is really too much...that is if you can have too much
shade in the tropics.

Best,

Bill Rouse - sailing with Captain Judy
s/v BeBe
SM2 #387


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "drdavegoodman"
<drdavegoodman@...> wrote:

Hi Judy;
I'm wondering why you decided not to use the Shade Tree, and am also
wondering what you have rigged up as an alternative. I have found
that once the shade tree is rigged up, it works well. But it is quite
labor intensive to get it rigged, and I wonder about utilizing a
system thats easier to rig.
Thanks
Dave

Hi Judy;
I'm wondering why you decided not to use the Shade Tree, and am also
wondering what you have rigged up as an alternative. I have found
that once the shade tree is rigged up, it works well. But it is quite
labor intensive to get it rigged, and I wonder about utilizing a
system thats easier to rig.
Thanks
Dave

Graham, try turning the handle the other way to roll
up the sail. That way the screw is always getting
tighter. It should run out easy.

Good luck and fair winds.
Richard SM 209&#92;

--- Graham Boyd <crwggb@yahoo.co.uk> wrote:

Hi

Dear All

When I tried to furl the mizen sail into the mast
using a winch
handle in the hole on the front of the mizen mast,
after a few turns
the sail would no longer furl and the winch handle
turned freely as
though the gear box at the bottom of the furling
foil had broken. I
disconnected the gear box from the mast and
discovered that the
drive shaft that goes through the mast into the
gear box had become
unscrewed from the gear box. I screwed the drive
shaft back into the
gear box and tried the system again but it continues
to become
unscrewed and you can't furl the sail.

How do I get this drive shaft to remain screwed into
the gear box? Is
there a pin that has perhaps sheared? or do I just
put epoxy glu on
the screw threads and hope it holds?

I look forward to your help and advice with this
problem,

Graham G Boyd
SM 140 SULA

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