Greetings,

I received a reply from Olivier BEAUTE. He said, "If your boat is in
the water, you can test (for connectivity between the SSB ground plate
and the zinc anodes) by measuring if there is an electric connection
between the copper plate located inside the starboard aft locker and
the rudder axis that you will see in the aft cabin."

I performed the test and found that SSB ground plate and the zinc
anodes are indeed connected.

The Amel User's Guide states on page 17: "When setting up an SSB,
disconnect ground plates of the anodes (behind the chart table). I
thought I located the wiring block behind the chart table and posted a
photo on this site. I was incorrect. The photo I posted was the
wiring block for the Amel installed Furuno 1503 SSB head unit and was
not what was referred to in the User's Guide.

I am still trying to learn what exactly the guide is referring to when
it states to "...disconnect ground plates of the anodes (behind the
chart table)."

If anyone knows please respond to this list.

I have sent another email to Mr. Beaute and will post any response I
receive.

Regards,

Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe SM2 #387

Hi all,

We have a 1979 Maramu 48 under contract in California and will be
doing our sea trial and survey shortly. We have owned a number of
other boats up to 39 feet but this is our first experience with an Amel.

Is there anything specific to Amel's we should be looking out for
during survey? This particular boat had a very extensive refit
recently including a new Yanmar, all new electrical system, and
electronics so those are areas we don't anticipate problems.

I'm also interested in links to any good resources to learn more about
these boats.

Could you please take note of my new e.mail adress :bluemarinemartin@gmail.com
and cancel my "voila" one.
I just tried to do that directly on the internet site, and just could not find how to get in.
Thank you for your help
Regards
Yves MARTIN d'AIGUEPERSE


mcymabm@voila.fr

We have just returned from 3 year's cruising in SE Asia and have now
decided to sell our Super Maramu. She was constructed in 10/96 and has
been very well maintained by the original owners and ouselves. The
yacht is an Australian Registered Yacht. Also it is fitted with
professionally made electric S/S davits carrying the Aquapro Rib and
15hp outboard.

A full maintenance schedule since we owned the yacht is available.

For further information please email us direct at -
ronandheather@bigpond.com

Ron and Heather BROWN - SM #171

Hi Anne and John:

What you are describing is dye penetrant testing and is a standard type
of NDT (non-desctructive testing) for cracks in metals. For a quick
description see :

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dye_penetrant_inspection

Kits for doing DPT can be purchased from many different suppliers
just by googling up fluorescent dye penetrant testing kits.

The process would be a little tedious especially at the top of the
mast, but would be easily performed with the terminals removed.
Inspection under 10 X magnification also aids in picking up very
tiny cracks.

Regards, Gary

Hello Niels and all,
At the risk of overkill, I am re-sending a posting I made a few
years ago on the subject of turbos:

Volvo TMD 22 Turbo: Lessons Learned

During the past summer, I learned a lot about the TMD22 Volvo diesel
engine and its turbocharger. Let me share some of that with those
who helped me solve my problems.
My symptoms were:
• Increasing amounts of black exhaust soot on the side of the boat,
to the point where I had to clean it after just a few hours of
running.
• Inability to run the engine over 2100 RPM under load, although it
would run to 4000 RPM in neutral.

I checked all the obvious: no restrictions on the air intake, clean
prop, clean fuel and filters (Racor & engine), good throttle
linkage. Then I had the injectors cleaned, and they had quite a bit
of carbon build-up. But that didn't change anything. So the only
other possible source of the problem was the turbo.

I talked to some other sailors, including two South Africans who
happened to be diesel mechanics – one on a submarine(!), and the
other a Caterpillar engine mechanic. They explained the turbo to me,
and ultimately told me how to remove it, clean it, and re-install it.
The turbo runs all the time, not just at high RPMs, as some have
suggested. Its role is to force more air into the engine than normal
aspiration would provide. It runs by using the exhaust gas to turn a
turbine, which is on the same shaft as a compressor on the intake
end. The turbo also has a wastegate built into the exhaust side, so
that at very high power settings, some of the exhaust gases bypass
the turbine, preventing the compressor from overpowering the engine
intake.
Now, since the turbo is in the exhaust flow, it receives all the
carbon that is normally in the exhaust gas of a diesel. That is why
it is a good idea to run the Volvo TMD22 at max RPM once in a while,
to burn off the carbon in the exhaust stream. Otherwise, the carbon
will build up and start clogging the turbine and the wastegate
valve. In extreme cases, the whole turbo will seize up, requiring
replacement or major repair.
In my case, after 1600 hours of motoring around the Med, I had a lot
of carbon build-up, but the turbo still turned. However, the
wastegate was partially clogged open, so that even at low RPMs, some
of the exhaust gases were bypassing the turbine. As a result, the
compressor wasn't running at correct speed, and the engine wasn't
getting enough air. Thus, the black exhaust. Also, at high RPMs,
the boost compensator on the fuel rack wasn't receiving enough
pressure from the compressor to open, so the engine wasn't revving
above 2100 RPMs. Basically, the fuel rack wasn't feeding more fuel
to the engine, even though the throttle called for it.
The solution: Remove the turbo (explained in the shop manual), and
clean the carbon from the exhaust side. Also clean the exhaust pipe
leading to the muffler/mixer. I took the turbo to a specialist shop
in Arrecife, Lanzarote, who cleaned it for 40 Euros. Problem solved.
Any questions, let me know if I can clarify any of this.
Good sailing to all, Roy Benveniste

Who's friends with who and co-starred in what?
http://www.searchgamesbox.com/celebrityseparation.shtml

Many years ago I read that a good way to crack test rigging terminals
is to apply a fluid which shows up any cracks but I have never heard
or seen anything of this majic fluid since until now when I believe I
have found it at last.
There is a company called Eftec which is a Swiss or German outfit
which now produces and /or markets a wide range of products dealing
with or avoiding corrosion on aircraft, automobiles or whatever. The
brand name is Dinitrol and the crack tester comes in three 400ml
aersol cans called Dinitrol Sim. One is a cleaner, the second the
indicator and the third is the developer which shows up any flaws in
red. It cannot be airmailed (aersols). Available from www.frost.co.uk
or various agents in Europe (try Google). The US agent is
joseph.renzi@eftechna.com.
My Amel S/S CQR type anchor has been a garden ornament ever since we
got a 26kg Wasi or Bugel type anchor in galvanised steel in Turkey
three or four years ago for about 200 euros. We find that it takes
hold in most bottoms very quickly and securely. We also carry but
have yet to use a Fortress and a fisherman, both normally dismantled.

Regards, Anne and John, SM319

<<<<<The following email is from WASI>>>>>>>>>>>>>
……. It should take 2 people not much more than 15
minutes and will have absolutely NO negative effects on the
structural
integrity of the anchor....

Ari Grimm
WASI

May I say that I FULLY disagree with Ari Grimm's statement..
In a previous life ( :-) ), I've been involved in manufacturing
artificial heart valves and artificial hearts.. All valves have been
carved into a solid piece of titanium, as all our studies have
proved that both bending and welding the metal will change the
molecular structure and weaken the metal. Cardiac surgery is a place
where the risk factor should be absolutely ZERO..

Now, let's say that the shank is welded to the fluke.. but at a
place where the shank is much larger, and the overall resistance
should be enough..

It is very difficult to assert precisely which level of weakness re-
bending the shank straight will create.. but in doubt I think I will
change my own anchor for a new one.
Stainless steel is beautiful,
but galvanized steel (at least the one used to manufacture anchor's
shanks) is much stronger..

For more information, please have a look at my book:

"The complete anchoring hand book"

http://www.mhprofessional.com/product.php?isbn=0071475087

To wipe off the wood work and take any cooking grease or hand prints off we use a soft cloth with about a 10% vinigar mix. It does not hurt the finish and cuts the grease...
Richard SM 209 in Antigua

svmalaika@aol.com wrote:
OOPS! ....USE A CLEAN, SOFT CLOTH SLIGHTLY DAMPENED TO WIPE DOWN A VARNISHED
SURFACE. dO NOT USE ANY CLEANING OR WAXING PRODUCTS.

oUR MARAMU WAS 20 YEARS OLD WHEN WE SOLD IT AND THE WOODWORK LOOKED NEW. OUR
SM IS 7 YEARS OLD AND IN PERFECT CONDITION.

CHARLIE
SM 336

**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)








---------------------------------
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--- Wanted to purchase : Santorin in the U.S.

I am in the market for a Santorin that I would like to
purchase within the next 4 months. Please contact me
ai gmcerillo@yahoo.com or 757 348 5667. thank you
George


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Great - thanks Bill


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "svbebe" <yahoogroups@...>
wrote:

John,

In BeBe #387 it is 37 1/2"

Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, johnabo2003 <no_reply@>

wrote:

Could somebody post the length of the leather wrap on the grab

rail. I

need to order a new one and I can't get down to the boat for a

few

weeks.

Thanks
John Abercombie
SM 394

George,
The original Santorin brochure gives "Tirant d'air" as 17.5 meters (or
57.4 feet). Add 3-ish for antennae and call it 60 feet. We've done ICW
just fine, but, as noted by others, watch the "tirant d'eau".
Cheers, Craig

John,

In BeBe #387 it is 37 1/2"

Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe SM2 #387

Ian:

Best access is to pull the fridge out. It is very simple. From the centerline locker at the
bottom of the companionway steps, reach underneath the floor panels towards the port
side panel in front of the fridge. You will feel the Amel hand-screw that secures the floor
panel in front of the fridge, undo that screw, then lift that panel upward and out by first
pushing up from underneath on the forward edge of the panel. This is the way you access
the center section of the fresh water tank as well. Next remove the two phillips head
screws that hold the fridge's kick panel in place at the bottom of the fridge door. Then
from inside the left hand door (stbd side) under the sink, unscrew the Amel hand-screw
that holds the fridge in place. The fridge will then slide out (forward) on two wooden
skids attached to the bottom of the fridge, providing great access to all that you need to
service. Reinstallation is just the reverse. It is a simple job and takes no more than a
minute or two. Once the fridge is out you can also access the most aft compartment of
the fresh water tank if you care to inspect it and also verify that the two fridge
condensation drain hoses are secure and intact. By the way, the entire sink front panel,
including the doors/panel/garbage pail bracket etc, in front of the sink can be removed
by removing two countersunk phillips head screws at the top of the panel. The panel and
doors, all simply lift up off of retaining pins and out of the way. Of course you will need to
remove stowed items from the shelf in the bottom of the sink cabinet as the shelf is
partially supported by the front panel.

I never cease to be amazed at the way this boat is put together for ease of access.

Best regards,

Gary

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Ian & Judy Jenkins <ianjudyjenkins@...>
wrote:

Pen Azen is an SM 2000, no 302. Our fridge needs some gas added. The two valves can

be seen either by looking from inside the adjacent locker or by taking off the wooden
panel underneath the fridge. but I am uncertain as to how best to access them. Has
anyone done this? Is it necessary to pull the fridge out? I see that it has three bolts to hold
it in place. I am hoping that I can leave the fridge in place whilst topping up the gas.

Any suggestions would be very welcome.
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, Rio de Janeiro ( at anchor at a wonderful YC in Niteroi ,

all of $6 per day..... Its gonna be hard to leave...)

_________________________________________________________________
Share what Santa brought you
https://www.mycooluncool.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Pen Azen again. We have had recent problems both with our Simrad vhf and Icom IC M710 SSB, both to do with power output.
The Icom agent here in Rio replaced a transistor ( 2SC 4673) in the SSB . It now seems to work, but has lost its transmitting power meter. Normally, when transmitting, a number of led bars show up on the screen in a horizontal line, the more the better.
Has anyone had experience of a similar failure?
I have looked at the amp meter for the main batteries and on transmit with the SSB I seem to use anything up to 9 amps. Thats at 24 v , so 18 amps through the SSB which has its own converter to 12v.
On transmit with my vhf I seem to use about 8 amps.
If anyone is on board and has a fully functioning Simrad vhf and Icom M710 ssb I would be interested to hear of the readings that they experience on transmit.
fair airwaves, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen SM 302, Rio

_________________________________________________________________
Who's friends with who and co-starred in what?
http://www.searchgamesbox.com/celebrityseparation.shtml

Peter, use 3M 5200 ,sand the rubber lightly apply the sealant, let sit for a week. If that doesn´nt work,Throw the thing away. I had my Zodiac professionally glued at a cost of $600.00 it lasted 1 year.
John SM 248 "Moon dog"


To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.comFrom: annejohn@melita.net.mtDate: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 12:29:05 +0000Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: BOMBARD DINGHY




--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "pjppappas" <pjppappas@...> wrote:>> Is the material used PVC or Hypalon. My wooden stern has completely > become un-glued from the patoons. Does anyone have a suggestion as to > what adhesive would be best to repair this? Thank You. Peter > Pappas "Callisto" sm2002 #369, Pt Vallarta, Mexico>Hello Peter, It will not be Hypalon as Zodiac does not use that material. I have had a lok on the web and the best I can come up with is " service@zodiac-service.gr" They actually advertise transom refixing on their site and if you tell them that yo are not close to Greece they will probably be happy to advise.I do recall that I once read a report from someone who had their outboard stolen in East Africa by someone who used a saw on the wooden transom! He repaired it with a piece of wood glued in place with Secomastic adhesive which he also used to repair the fabric.Good luck, Anne and John, Bali Hai Sm 319






_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give.
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Pen Azen is an SM 2000, no 302. Our fridge needs some gas added. The two valves can be seen either by looking from inside the adjacent locker or by taking off the wooden panel underneath the fridge. but I am uncertain as to how best to access them. Has anyone done this? Is it necessary to pull the fridge out? I see that it has three bolts to hold it in place. I am hoping that I can leave the fridge in place whilst topping up the gas.
Any suggestions would be very welcome.
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, Rio de Janeiro ( at anchor at a wonderful YC in Niteroi , all of $6 per day..... Its gonna be hard to leave...)

_________________________________________________________________
Share what Santa brought you
https://www.mycooluncool.com

Could somebody post the length of the leather wrap on the grab rail. I
need to order a new one and I can't get down to the boat for a few
weeks.

Thanks
John Abercombie
SM 394