I am in the process of purchasing a 1998 SM in the US. I have been
told by a surveyor and electrician that the stock 220v shore power
cord does not meet US electrical code standards, and that the cord
needs to be replaced by a 4 wire, minimum 10 guage cord. The
replacement cord is much heavier and thicker, and requires the groove
in the aft lazarette cover to be enlarged. Has anyone had experience
with replacing this cord? Thanks.

I need to replace the thru hull handle (die cast) on the valve going from
the head to the sea. I have a Sharki made in 1984. Any suggestions as to
where I might get a new handle? Thanks.



Roy



Duddy Law Offices, PLLC

175 Route 101

Bedford, NH 03110



603-472-8500

603-472-7333 fax




No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/787 - Release Date: 5/3/2007 2:11
PM

1998 Supermaramu on sale, perfect conditions. New Sails from North Sails. A lot of
accessories and optionals. The boat is located in Rome, Italy. If interested please email me at
nuba2004@yahoo.it.
Angelo.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
If you are having to pull on the cable to

achieve Thruster locking-pin alignment you might try adjusting the

thruster as described

below.

We visited the Amel service office in Guadeloupe recently and had the
bow thruster checked for alignment. We thought it should be adjusted
so that it would not require that we pull on the cable in order to
insert the locking-pin. They refused to adjust it and said that we
should have to pull on the cable before inserting the locking-pin;
perfectly normal procedure to ensure that the tension on the seals
will prevent water intrusion when sailing into pounding seas. So we
left it that way. Having to pull on the cable isn't a big deal to us,
but thanks for the advice anyway.

Judy
S/V BeBe
SM2 #387

Mike Wrote:

Does a bow thruster rebuild kit from Amel contain the 3 foam donut seals,
the prop shaft seal, and perhaps the "shaft lip seal" ? Cost?

I last ordered a set of bow thruster seals. "Jeu de joint de propulseur d'etrave"
Sept 2005 from Amel. At that time the cost was 33.50 Euros, plus freight.
The kit included three foam seals, 1 lip seal for the shaft of the thruster
foot, (It is a typical lip seal with a metal outer band and pliable rubber
grooved sealing surface), and a lip seal for the prop shaft.

Amel's kit and price may have changed so if you place
an order with them I suggest you spell out IN DETAIL what you want.
Olivier Beaute, Amel's after sales service rep, is excellent but he is so
busy that he is at times hard to get ahold of. However, his assistant
Maude, also speaks excellent English and is very knowledgable.

Good Luck,

Gary

Thanks Gary and Bill&Judy for your excellent responses. Aletes remained
watertight when refloated, confirming the thruster trunk elevation is indeed
above waterline. It would seem we were indeed short the 3rd donut ring seal
that goes on the interior of the boat.

Gary, is the "shaft lip seal" you indicated on the top side of bow thruster
trunk soft and intended to seal against the bow thruster shaft, and is it a
replaceable part?

I take it the propeller shaft seal can be dug out of the gear housing and be
replaced.

I suppose the reason we used a full quart of gear oil was that we filled the
entire shaft, unnecessarily. The .3 liter undoubtedly fills the gear box.
With that much oil in the shaft, water leaking through the prop shaft seal
will lift the oil out of the tube that much sooner.

Does a bow thruster rebuild kit from Amel contain the 3 foam donut seals,
the prop shaft seal, and perhaps the "shaft lip seal" ? Cost?

Thanks again for clarifying this issue.
Mike
Aletes SM2000#240
<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714/grpId=5036225/grpspId=1705065792/msgId
=2879/stime=1178033686/nc1=4438963/nc2=4430620/nc3=3848604>

Hi,

I believe the thruster takes .3 liters of 90 weight gear oil.

Fair winds

Eric sm 376 kimberlite



_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 7:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SM2000 Bow thruster service



Mike,

Let me try to help you with your questions. I did not design the bow
thruster, nor am I an engineer. I certainly cannot suggest intended
strategies, but I have some suggestions for you. I have used and
serviced it successfully and may be of some help.

1) The penetration through the hull is above the water line when at rest
in calm water.

2 a) The 2 closed cell foam rings on the shaft outside the hull are
compressed against the hull opening when the bow thruster is fully up
and the safety pin is in place.It is important to pull on the wire
bringing the thruster high enough to insert the pin each time you go
sailing (you will also have to turn OFF the power switch which is in the
path of inserting the pin).

2b) On the Bow Thruster shaft there are 2 closed cell foam rings outside
the hull which are compressed when the thruster is in full up and the
pin is inserted.my experience is if you do not insert the pin, you
will get a small amount of water in the forward bilge when sailing.
There is one closed cell foam ring inside the hull compressed when the
thruster motor is in the full down position.

2c) There is an oil seal just behind the propeller and this oil seal
probably needs replacing on your boat.

3a). The 2 foam rings outside the hull should be adhered to the foot of
the shaft and the gear box and ride up and down with the shaft.

3b) If the surface of the bow thruster well is oily it most likely is
because the seal behind the propeller needs replacing. A bad seal will
cause water to penetrate and water penetrating the thruster will cause
the oil to rise and possibly overflow when running.

3c) You should have fare access to this area to clean when the thruster
is removed.

4) I am not sure about the 2 grooves in the sleeved penetration in the
hull.

5) There should be one closed cell foam ring inside the hull compressed
when the thruster motor is in the full down position.

6) There is an oil seal behind the propeller. It keeps sea water out
and also keeps oil inside the thruster. This oil seal is pressed into
the gear housing, and should be replaced when you service the unit. The
flat side of the seal faces the sea water and propeller. You may want
to use a little RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) silicone sealant to
help ensure that it stays in place and seals completely. I suggest that
when draining the thruster that you capture the oil in a transparent
container to see if there is any water in it. If there is, change the
seal behind the propeller.

7) My guess is that the water you had in your forward bilges was caused
by not pulling the wire and inserting the pin while under sail.

8) I assume that you filled the thruster to the same level that it had
when you removed it. If so, it was overfilled as it should definitely
not take that much oil.
Best,

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v BeBe anchored at Bequia, The Genadines
SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mondra@...> wrote:

We just completed servicing Aletes' bow thruster on the hard,
postings from this BB in our greasy hands. Yet upon completion we
have concerns about the water tight integrity of the bow thruster.

1. Fundamentally, is the penetration through the hull above or below
the water line when at rest in calm water? It appeared to us that it
was slightly below the water line, which conflicts with the concept
of dropping out the propeller/shaft assembly while in the water and
raises images of the boat with water where it should not be.

2. What is the seal strategy of the assembly? We found only the 2
closed cell foam rings on the shaft outside the hull that are
compressed against the hull opening when the bow thruster is fully
up. Other postings refer to up to 5 seals: 1 just behind the
propeller, the 2 we have around the shaft just outside the hull, 1 at
the hull opening, and 1 foam ring above the opening that would be
compressed when the truster motor is in the full down position.

3. The 2 foam rings outside the hull were adhered to the foot of the
shaft and the gear box and rode up and down with the shaft. It would
seem that if they were adhered to the bottom of the opening in the
hull they would seal to the shaft as well as be compressed when the
assembly was full up. However the friction of the shaft moving up and
down could wear the seal and/or pull the rings away from the
adhesive. Also that surface up in the bow thruster well is oily
(difficult to adhere to) and not very accessible for cleaning up
adhesive in preparation for a new seal.

4. The sleeved penetration in the hull, about 2" tall, had 2 grooves
in it. Is this or are there other provisions for a seal at this
location that would not move with the assembly and seal to the shaft?

5. We did not find any seals on the top side of the hull. Should
there be a foam ring on top to seal when the motor is down?

6. Is there a seal required behind the propeller and what does it
look like and do? The propeller shaft has a seal pressed into the
gear housing, and should that be replacable?

7. Again, what is the total seal strategy? Although we have had only
a very minor amount of water in our forward bilges, what we found
seemed to be profoundly not leak proof.

8. Our shaft assembly took a full quart of 90 wt oil instead of
the .3 liter described in the manual. Are there different models that
require different amounts of oil and may have different seal
strategies?

As this is a bi-annual service usually done out of the water, it
would be nice to be very clear about what is required to maintain the
water tight integrity of the boat!

Mike Ondra
Aletes SM200#240

Hi Everyone:

Thanks Judy for your excellent description. If you are having to pull on the cable to
achieve Thruster locking-pin alignment you might try adjusting the thruster as described
below.

Additionally, I have uploaded some items that may contribute to the SM bow thruster
service discussion:

To the Photo's Area I made and new album entitled "BOW THRUSTER SERVICE" that has
some labeled photos of the bow thruster components. Others may upload additional
pertinent photos to that album. There are some excellent additional photos in the album
labeled "SM227" that show the Amel Special Tool etc.

In the FIles Area I uploaded a document that I wrote up when I last did my thruster service
(as described to me by Ray Eaton, Amel's rep in Ft. Lauderdale) that describes the service
procedures, tools needed, etc.

I hope these will be of aid to Amel ownners who visit this site.

Regards to all,

Gary Silver

Mike,


Let me try to help you with your questions. I did not design the bow
thruster, nor am I an engineer. I certainly cannot suggest intended
strategies, but I have some suggestions for you. I have used and
serviced it successfully and may be of some help.


1) The penetration through the hull is above the water line when at rest
in calm water.


2 a) The 2 closed cell foam rings on the shaft outside the hull are
compressed against the hull opening when the bow thruster is fully up
and the safety pin is in place…It is important to pull on the wire
bringing the thruster high enough to insert the pin each time you go
sailing (you will also have to turn OFF the power switch which is in the
path of inserting the pin).


2b) On the Bow Thruster shaft there are 2 closed cell foam rings outside
the hull which are compressed when the thruster is in full up and the
pin is inserted…my experience is if you do not insert the pin, you
will get a small amount of water in the forward bilge when sailing.
There is one closed cell foam ring inside the hull compressed when the
thruster motor is in the full down position.


2c) There is an oil seal just behind the propeller and this oil seal
probably needs replacing on your boat.


3a). The 2 foam rings outside the hull should be adhered to the foot of
the shaft and the gear box and ride up and down with the shaft.


3b) If the surface of the bow thruster well is oily it most likely is
because the seal behind the propeller needs replacing. A bad seal will
cause water to penetrate and water penetrating the thruster will cause
the oil to rise and possibly overflow when running.


3c) You should have fare access to this area to clean when the thruster
is removed.

4) I am not sure about the 2 grooves in the sleeved penetration in the
hull.

5) There should be one closed cell foam ring inside the hull compressed
when the thruster motor is in the full down position.

6) There is an oil seal behind the propeller. It keeps sea water out
and also keeps oil inside the thruster. This oil seal is pressed into
the gear housing, and should be replaced when you service the unit. The
flat side of the seal faces the sea water and propeller. You may want
to use a little RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) silicone sealant to
help ensure that it stays in place and seals completely. I suggest that
when draining the thruster that you capture the oil in a transparent
container to see if there is any water in it. If there is, change the
seal behind the propeller.

7) My guess is that the water you had in your forward bilges was caused
by not pulling the wire and inserting the pin while under sail.

8) I assume that you filled the thruster to the same level that it had
when you removed it. If so, it was overfilled as it should definitely
not take that much oil.
Best,


Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v BeBe anchored at Bequia, The Genadines
SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mondra@...> wrote:

We just completed servicing Aletes' bow thruster on the hard,
postings from this BB in our greasy hands. Yet upon completion we
have concerns about the water tight integrity of the bow thruster.

1. Fundamentally, is the penetration through the hull above or below
the water line when at rest in calm water? It appeared to us that it
was slightly below the water line, which conflicts with the concept
of dropping out the propeller/shaft assembly while in the water and
raises images of the boat with water where it should not be.

2. What is the seal strategy of the assembly? We found only the 2
closed cell foam rings on the shaft outside the hull that are
compressed against the hull opening when the bow thruster is fully
up. Other postings refer to up to 5 seals: 1 just behind the
propeller, the 2 we have around the shaft just outside the hull, 1 at
the hull opening, and 1 foam ring above the opening that would be
compressed when the truster motor is in the full down position.

3. The 2 foam rings outside the hull were adhered to the foot of the
shaft and the gear box and rode up and down with the shaft. It would
seem that if they were adhered to the bottom of the opening in the
hull they would seal to the shaft as well as be compressed when the
assembly was full up. However the friction of the shaft moving up and
down could wear the seal and/or pull the rings away from the
adhesive. Also that surface up in the bow thruster well is oily
(difficult to adhere to) and not very accessible for cleaning up
adhesive in preparation for a new seal.

4. The sleeved penetration in the hull, about 2" tall, had 2 grooves
in it. Is this or are there other provisions for a seal at this
location that would not move with the assembly and seal to the shaft?

5. We did not find any seals on the top side of the hull. Should
there be a foam ring on top to seal when the motor is down?

6. Is there a seal required behind the propeller and what does it
look like and do? The propeller shaft has a seal pressed into the
gear housing, and should that be replacable?

7. Again, what is the total seal strategy? Although we have had only
a very minor amount of water in our forward bilges, what we found
seemed to be profoundly not leak proof.

8. Our shaft assembly took a full quart of 90 wt oil instead of
the .3 liter described in the manual. Are there different models that
require different amounts of oil and may have different seal
strategies?

As this is a bi-annual service usually done out of the water, it
would be nice to be very clear about what is required to maintain the
water tight integrity of the boat!

Mike Ondra
Aletes SM200#240

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

We just completed servicing Aletes' bow thruster on the hard,
postings from this BB in our greasy hands. Yet upon completion we
have concerns about the water tight integrity of the bow thruster.

1. Fundamentally, is the penetration through the hull above or below
the water line when at rest in calm water? It appeared to us that it
was slightly below the water line, which conflicts with the concept
of dropping out the propeller/shaft assembly while in the water and
raises images of the boat with water where it should not be.

2. What is the seal strategy of the assembly? We found only the 2
closed cell foam rings on the shaft outside the hull that are
compressed against the hull opening when the bow thruster is fully
up. Other postings refer to up to 5 seals: 1 just behind the
propeller, the 2 we have around the shaft just outside the hull, 1 at
the hull opening, and 1 foam ring above the opening that would be
compressed when the truster motor is in the full down position.

3. The 2 foam rings outside the hull were adhered to the foot of the
shaft and the gear box and rode up and down with the shaft. It would
seem that if they were adhered to the bottom of the opening in the
hull they would seal to the shaft as well as be compressed when the
assembly was full up. However the friction of the shaft moving up and
down could wear the seal and/or pull the rings away from the
adhesive. Also that surface up in the bow thruster well is oily
(difficult to adhere to) and not very accessible for cleaning up
adhesive in preparation for a new seal.

4. The sleeved penetration in the hull, about 2" tall, had 2 grooves
in it. Is this or are there other provisions for a seal at this
location that would not move with the assembly and seal to the shaft?

5. We did not find any seals on the top side of the hull. Should
there be a foam ring on top to seal when the motor is down?

6. Is there a seal required behind the propeller and what does it
look like and do? The propeller shaft has a seal pressed into the
gear housing, and should that be replacable?

7. Again, what is the total seal strategy? Although we have had only
a very minor amount of water in our forward bilges, what we found
seemed to be profoundly not leak proof.

8. Our shaft assembly took a full quart of 90 wt oil instead of
the .3 liter described in the manual. Are there different models that
require different amounts of oil and may have different seal
strategies?

As this is a bi-annual service usually done out of the water, it
would be nice to be very clear about what is required to maintain the
water tight integrity of the boat!

Mike Ondra
Aletes SM200#240

Hi Eric

I went to check this on my boat and found I couldn't understand which AC setting you
mean to test. Can you please clarify?

Roger, Mango 28

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Eric Lindholm <etlindholm@...> wrote:

There is another item you may want to check and that is AC ripple from your charger.

There was an article in a recent Cruising World on how AC ripple can cause your batteries
to discharge even when the charger is going full bore. The article said to test for this with
a multimeter on the AC setting, putting the black probe on the negative, the red on the
positive, and if it shows more that .2 VAC it will cause to batteries to discharge while
cooking them at the same time. Cruising World March 2007 page 98.

Eric "Maramu" 105

agav8ter <agav8ter@...> wrote:
Thank you to all who have answered. I called and spoke to the Link
10 / Mastervolt people, they confirm that the the Mastervolt is not a
regulator.

Gary, I now have four of the eight batteries that must be replaced. I
sopke with Simon at Rolls Battery, and he advised me that my batteries
are "sulfated" because I am not charging them to a high enough voltage
(28.8v). He further stated that it is sensless to replace the
batteries until the Dolphin Charger can put out the 28.8V as the new
batteries will just sulfate again. He felt stong enough about this
that he said he would not advise spending the money on Rolls batteries
as they absolutly need the 28.8V. I have done most of the checking and
testing you recommended, and I still have the same result, only 27.3
volts from the charger.

Gary, do you use Skype??? Can I Skype you?

Thanks again, Tony






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

To all readers,
I accidentally sent a personal e-mail to this site. This was
unintended.
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug SM#331

Hi,

We found a very good video of the Amel 54 featuring Joel.

We enjoyed it very much and thought you might like to see it.

Amel Video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DsFZURpfdYQ

Best,

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v BeBe SM2 #387

If anyone is interested in an immaculate SuperMaramu 2001 please
contact me. Unexpectedly and heartbreakingly due to ill health we are
having to sell our yacht. She is virtually as new with lots of extras
including new Amel watermaker 160litre per hour 220 volt, SSB, spare
sails 700 + hours on yanmar engine. She is lying East Med VAT paid.
Sensibly priced for a quick sale.
E mail Villasail@yahoo.co.uk contact John Blyth

We have the cold weather cockpit enclosure from Amel. Unfortunately
we are missing the stainless steel bars or tubes that support the rear
of the enclosure. These bars or tubes run from the port and starboard
mizzen shrouds to behind the mizzen mast. We believe that we could
have them fabricated if we had specifications and/or photos.

We would appreciate either a posting of photos and/or specs on this
website, or emailing the information to brouse"at"gmail.com,
substituting the @ symbol for "at"

Best,

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v BeBe - SM2 #387

He must have stolen the boat. He couldn't be a real AMEL owner. Could he?

Robin

Santorin "Belouga"

edmund_steele <edmundsteele@earthlink.net> wrote:
Well, I noticed immediately that his outhauls are too slack.
Ed
SM "DoodleBug"

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "closereach" <closereach@...>
wrote:

I don't know if this fact or fiction but it is an interesting web

post:

http://sv-timemachine.net/?p=234

Richard
SM "Spice"

---------------------------------
Yahoo! Mail is the world's favourite email. Don't settle for less, sign up for your freeaccount today.

He must have stolen the boat. He couldn't be a real AMEL owner. Could he?

Robin

Santorin "Belouga"

edmund_steele <edmundsteele@earthlink.net> wrote:
Well, I noticed immediately that his outhauls are too slack.
Ed
SM "DoodleBug"

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "closereach" <closereach@...>
wrote:

I don't know if this fact or fiction but it is an interesting web

post:

http://sv-timemachine.net/?p=234

Richard
SM "Spice"

---------------------------------
Yahoo! Answers - Got a question? Someone out there knows the answer. Tryit now.

Hi Ed,
No idea where you are but we are in Malta. We have an excellent log
produced by Kamu 2, a 12.9mtr yacht giving important info on charges,
reception etc. in Northern Cyprus,Syria,Lebanon, Israel and Egypt,
transiting the canal etc.Not sure whether to send it to you at your
Email address or put it in the Files section. Suffice to say that we
are encouraged to go that way for our summer cruise. If you want it
sent to you please let us know your address as I am not sure whether
the bit shown on your place in the members section would work.
Alternatively if others also want the info I will try to post it in the
files section. It is two years worth (2005/6) and each one is covers
seven or eight pages.
My full address is in the members section.
Let me know, Best wishes John SM319

Hello all,

Last time we hauled out I must have left the docking diagram with the
travel lift operator. We are in Antigua and are due to haul out at
Jolly Harbour this coming Saturday.

Our boat is SM#266 and has the forward looking sonar. Does anyone have
the docking diagram they can send to me as a PDF file?? I would sure
appreciate it.

Also, Has anyone not used the slings and used the liftinf eyes on the
chainplates?

Please send the PDF file to: agav8ter@yahoo.com

Thank you in advance for your help,

Tony Gray
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266

We are headed for a canal transit in early August, 2007. Does anyone
who has already transited the Suez canal, have any information on the
measurements of and fees for a Super Maramu?
Ed
SM #331 DoodleBug