Date   

Re: Painting Deck

minaxi53 <no_reply@...>
 

Regarding the 'Treadmaster' product. If this is laid down with an
adhesive, how well does this work on the faux teak decks of SM's
that have the dark lines slightly below the 'Teak'? Will this lead
to bad adhesion or wavy surface?
I am not considering this yet but maybe in the future.
Bob

--

- In amelyachtowners@..., "Jose_Luis Isasi"
<jose.luis.isasi@m...> wrote:
Hi Johen,

Hereby I paste an answer from one of our mates to my questions. I
cannot offer my experience because I still have not applied this
knowledge.

Regards
Jose_Luis



I include my conversation with Joachim for the benefit of all.

Hello Jose_Luis,

regarding the deck there are different ideas to consider. My
final
decision was:

I am going to put the anti-slip material treadmaster
(http://www.tiflex.co.uk/marine/marine.html) on the side walks but
not on the cabin roofs. This was mainly due to optical reasons.
The
website has also a spanish version.



The pictures are taken from KIRK # 233 which is owned by my best
friend. He put the treadmaster on in 1989. Pictures where taken
this
year.

I did grind the original anti slip approximately 2/3 down. These
areas will be painted and an anti slip additive ( sand ! ) will be
added to the first layer of 2 component paint. The 2nd layer of
paint will partly cover the sand, that takes out the "bite of the
sand" when you sit on it.. On www.yachtpaint.com you will find a
lot
of information probably also in Spanish. VC 17 is a antifouling
paint which creates a very thin layer of paint and dries in a very
short time.

I completed the first sanding with 60 grid last wekend and will do
a
final sanding with 180 grid to all the original anti slip areas.
The
other areas wil get a final sanding with 320 grid. Right now the
temperatures are on their way down in northern Germany so it will
take probably another 4 weeks before we get proper outside
conditions.

In case you have any question please let me - or the forum- know.
I
own own my KIRK now for 2 years but my best friend owns # 233 now
for 18 years so we have a pretty good knowledge about the older
AMEL
boats.

Next whe will have to replace the old wall coverings hanging down
from the roof also a favorite AMEL item for a replacement.

Enjoy your new boat, the boats might not be good looking but
usability is very high.

Best regards from Hamburg

Joachim
----- Original Message -----
From: Isasi Jose Luis-LJI004
To: "Hans-Joachim Schröder"
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: hull sanding


Hello Joachim,



Thank you for your prompt answer, I was afraid you were not using
anymore this email address.

I am glad you are starting with the deck, because I will have to
do
it as well sooner or later.

I was wondering how to paint the deck without killing the antislip.

Could you elaborate on how are you going to do it?

I am not familiar with terms like treadmaster and 2k paint, or VC
17
products. I will check the web link you mention.

This my first owned boat and I think I have a lot to learn.



Vielen Dank

Jose_Luis



-----Original Message-----
From: "Hans-Joachim Schröder" [mailto:achimschro@w...]
Sent: sábado, 02 de abril de 2005 10:48
To: Isasi Jose Luis-LJI004
Subject: FW: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: hull sanding



"Hans-Joachim Schröder" <achimschro@w...> schrieb am 02.04.05
10:43:43:



Hello Jose_Luis,

congratulations to the new Amel boat. I hope you will enjoy it as
much we do enjoy the smaller version KIRK # 81 built in 1972.
Welcome to the forum for amel owners.

Sorry for writing in German. . Because I thought this message was
for a german owner I referred to German products. Those are
available in Spain check www.festool.es.

I did a complete renovation of a boat which had osmosis . For
sanding down the hull I used a FESTO ROTEX sander which a very
professional tool and fortunately comparatively heavy. In the last
I
had to sand down the underwater area of my Kirk I used 40 grid
sandpaper and the rotating mode of the machine. I removed the
complete gelcoat and checked the laminate. I should be almost free
of "White Llines" this is where the old polyester doesn't stick to
the glass mat and is therefore o good start for osmosis in the
future.

I my posting i stated that for sanding the bottom you might need
good sanding paper with 120, 180 and 240 for the finish. We have a
very smooth bottom area where we use VC 17 products. This is
because
we do some club racing and are succesfull with this "old ship".
For
the deck area you can start with 120 grid and then 240 and 320.
Please keep in mind that preparation incl. sanding, fairing and
stripping off the equipment will take almost 90 % of the total
time.
But after that you should be save for another 15 years.

This year I am renovating the deck area. Because this is the first
time after 33 years. This needs a lot of sanding of the antislip
deck areas. I am planning to cover the walking areas with
treadmaster and paint the upper deck areas with 2k paint. But this
willtake another month because I live in northern Germany where
the
current outside temparature is now at 6 degrees with a chance of
frost overnight.

If you need any further information please do not hesitate to
contact me. Your German is by far better than my non-exisiting
spanish.

Good luck and fair winds

Joachim





--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Jose_Luis Isasi"
<jose.luis.isasi@m...> wrote:

Hello Joachim,

Could you please translate into English for me?
I am very interested in your answer aber mein deutsch ist nicht
so
gut.

Vielen dank
Jose_Luis (Spain)


Hallo Martin,

wegen der Schleifmaschine kann ich nur zu einer Festo Rotex
raten.

Ich habe damit eine Osomosesanierung an einem 30qm
Unterwasserschiff
durchgeührt (kein Amel Schiff!) sowie Rumpf und Deck
geschliffen.

Für das Schleifpapier sollte man auch Festo -Brilliant-
nehmen.
Zum
abschleifen etwa 120 er für den Zwischenschliff 180er und zum
Finish
240er. Die Vorbereitungen für die Lackierung werden rd. 80%
der
Gesamtzeit betragen. Ich würde meinen, das für den Rumpf
oberhalb
der
Wasserlinie jeweils 15 Scheiben ausreichen müßten. Für den
Unterwasserteil rd. 10 Scheiben 80er und 10 Scheiben 120er je
nach
Qualitätsvorstellung.

Für weitere Fragen bitte direkte mail.

Gutes Gelingen

Joachim




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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Client looking for Amel Mango

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Randy,

I was just admiring the pictures of your boat on the drifter website.
However as there are no clear pictures of the floor, I am confused by
your remark in a previous e-mail about the floors being "wooden".

I thought that in the specification that you have, the floors were of
the blue/brown hinged fiberglass variety. Is this incorrect? Andif so
do you know the model number/year when the fiberglass floor panels
were introduced.

Is your floor the same variety of wooden floor as the 98 model?

Cheers
John Abercrombie
( potential Amel owner )
--- In amelyachtowners@..., Randy Kilmon
<drifter01us@y...> wrote:
Hi Derek,
He doesn't REALLY want a Mango, as they are much
slower than a SM 2000. Also, nowhere near as many
advanced systems.
So, sell him "Drifter"!! I have just opened up my
broker to co-op arrangements, so plenty of commission
there for you.
If your customer insists on a Mango, I know of one
stored for the hurricane season in the Caribbean. It's
owned by a friend of mine and is in excellent
condition. My friend wasn't planning on selling his
Mango until after next season, but he might be
interested. I'll give you his e-mail address after I
check with him.
(But, we're leaving tomorrow for a little trip. Back
here about the 21st.)
Cheers,
Randy

--- Derek jarvis <sailorman522000@y...> wrote:

Ahoy
I have a client looking for an Amel Mango in good
condition.He wants the furling main version.
He would prefer a boat on the west coast or Mexico
but would be open to an east coast Amel as well.
I can be contacted at 954-761-1122 or
derek@b...
Cheers Derek

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Re: Painting Deck

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Hi Johen,

Hereby I paste an answer from one of our mates to my questions. I
cannot offer my experience because I still have not applied this
knowledge.

Regards
Jose_Luis



I include my conversation with Joachim for the benefit of all.

Hello Jose_Luis,

regarding the deck there are different ideas to consider. My final
decision was:

I am going to put the anti-slip material treadmaster
(http://www.tiflex.co.uk/marine/marine.html) on the side walks but
not on the cabin roofs. This was mainly due to optical reasons. The
website has also a spanish version.



The pictures are taken from KIRK # 233 which is owned by my best
friend. He put the treadmaster on in 1989. Pictures where taken this
year.

I did grind the original anti slip approximately 2/3 down. These
areas will be painted and an anti slip additive ( sand ! ) will be
added to the first layer of 2 component paint. The 2nd layer of
paint will partly cover the sand, that takes out the "bite of the
sand" when you sit on it.. On www.yachtpaint.com you will find a lot
of information probably also in Spanish. VC 17 is a antifouling
paint which creates a very thin layer of paint and dries in a very
short time.

I completed the first sanding with 60 grid last wekend and will do a
final sanding with 180 grid to all the original anti slip areas. The
other areas wil get a final sanding with 320 grid. Right now the
temperatures are on their way down in northern Germany so it will
take probably another 4 weeks before we get proper outside
conditions.

In case you have any question please let me - or the forum- know. I
own own my KIRK now for 2 years but my best friend owns # 233 now
for 18 years so we have a pretty good knowledge about the older AMEL
boats.

Next whe will have to replace the old wall coverings hanging down
from the roof also a favorite AMEL item for a replacement.

Enjoy your new boat, the boats might not be good looking but
usability is very high.

Best regards from Hamburg

Joachim

----- Original Message -----
From: Isasi Jose Luis-LJI004
To: "Hans-Joachim Schröder"
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: hull sanding


Hello Joachim,



Thank you for your prompt answer, I was afraid you were not using
anymore this email address.

I am glad you are starting with the deck, because I will have to do
it as well sooner or later.

I was wondering how to paint the deck without killing the antislip.

Could you elaborate on how are you going to do it?

I am not familiar with terms like treadmaster and 2k paint, or VC 17
products. I will check the web link you mention.

This my first owned boat and I think I have a lot to learn.



Vielen Dank

Jose_Luis



-----Original Message-----
From: "Hans-Joachim Schröder" [mailto:achimschro@...]
Sent: sábado, 02 de abril de 2005 10:48
To: Isasi Jose Luis-LJI004
Subject: FW: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: hull sanding



"Hans-Joachim Schröder" <achimschro@...> schrieb am 02.04.05
10:43:43:



Hello Jose_Luis,

congratulations to the new Amel boat. I hope you will enjoy it as
much we do enjoy the smaller version KIRK # 81 built in 1972.
Welcome to the forum for amel owners.

Sorry for writing in German. . Because I thought this message was
for a german owner I referred to German products. Those are
available in Spain check www.festool.es.

I did a complete renovation of a boat which had osmosis . For
sanding down the hull I used a FESTO ROTEX sander which a very
professional tool and fortunately comparatively heavy. In the last I
had to sand down the underwater area of my Kirk I used 40 grid
sandpaper and the rotating mode of the machine. I removed the
complete gelcoat and checked the laminate. I should be almost free
of "White Llines" this is where the old polyester doesn't stick to
the glass mat and is therefore o good start for osmosis in the
future.

I my posting i stated that for sanding the bottom you might need
good sanding paper with 120, 180 and 240 for the finish. We have a
very smooth bottom area where we use VC 17 products. This is because
we do some club racing and are succesfull with this "old ship". For
the deck area you can start with 120 grid and then 240 and 320.
Please keep in mind that preparation incl. sanding, fairing and
stripping off the equipment will take almost 90 % of the total time.
But after that you should be save for another 15 years.

This year I am renovating the deck area. Because this is the first
time after 33 years. This needs a lot of sanding of the antislip
deck areas. I am planning to cover the walking areas with
treadmaster and paint the upper deck areas with 2k paint. But this
willtake another month because I live in northern Germany where the
current outside temparature is now at 6 degrees with a chance of
frost overnight.

If you need any further information please do not hesitate to
contact me. Your German is by far better than my non-exisiting
spanish.

Good luck and fair winds

Joachim





--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Jose_Luis Isasi"
<jose.luis.isasi@m...> wrote:

Hello Joachim,

Could you please translate into English for me?
I am very interested in your answer aber mein deutsch ist nicht so
gut.

Vielen dank
Jose_Luis (Spain)


Hallo Martin,

wegen der Schleifmaschine kann ich nur zu einer Festo Rotex
raten.

Ich habe damit eine Osomosesanierung an einem 30qm
Unterwasserschiff
durchgeührt (kein Amel Schiff!) sowie Rumpf und Deck geschliffen.

Für das Schleifpapier sollte man auch Festo -Brilliant- nehmen.
Zum
abschleifen etwa 120 er für den Zwischenschliff 180er und zum
Finish
240er. Die Vorbereitungen für die Lackierung werden rd. 80% der
Gesamtzeit betragen. Ich würde meinen, das für den Rumpf
oberhalb
der
Wasserlinie jeweils 15 Scheiben ausreichen müßten. Für den
Unterwasserteil rd. 10 Scheiben 80er und 10 Scheiben 120er je
nach
Qualitätsvorstellung.

Für weitere Fragen bitte direkte mail.

Gutes Gelingen

Joachim




------------------------ Yahoo! Groups Sponsor --------------------~-
-> Help save the life of a child. Support St. Jude Children's
Research Hospital's 'Thanks & Giving.'
http://us.click.yahoo.com/6iY7fA/5WnJAA/Y3ZIAA/A1TolB/TM
--------------------------------------------------------------------
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Painting Deck

Jochen Hofmann <jochen@...>
 

Hi fellow Amel sailors.
Is there really no one among us all who has a suggestion how to solve
my problem (posted a question re subject about a week ago) ?

Fair winds,

Jochen


24 volt dinghy pump

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

For those whose schoolboy French was not up to Amels comment
"bricolage" the proprietor of my local French restaurant tells me it
means DIY or
"Do it Yourself" in UK English.
Seems appropriate!

Regards from Malta, John Hollamby, Bal Hai SM 319


Does your boat feature a "ROLL BAR " anchor??

Alain dHYLAS
 

ROLL BAR:


We can observe now, coming on the market, a handful of « new
anchors » featuring a « roll bar » at the back part of the
fluke..

This design is not new !.. already patented by Peter BRUCE more than
30 years ago, and popularized by the German "Bügel"
anchor.. (Bügel in German means "roll bar").

In addition to the "Bügel", the new comers in the market
are
- The Sarca anchor
- The Manson "Supreme"
- The NZ "Rocna"

An soon some others!.. who find more easy to copy existing products
than spending time and money to design new improved designs..

BUT? did you ask yourself, the reason of this CUMBERSOME APPENDAGE??

- One clear explanation is found in one of the web page of one
of these manufacturers:

"The roll-bar serves one main purpose: it ensures the anchor will
adopt the correct setting attitude, which is loosely described as
being on its side with the complete anchor weight supported between
the skids, the end of the shank, and the tip of the blade.
As well as ensuring that the anchor will always achieve the correct
orientation, the roll-bar means that the toe does not need to be
weighted with extra lead or cast iron."

But the main reason is not clearly explained:
- all these "new" anchors are "BADLY BALANCED" which
means that, as there is not enough weight on the anchor tip (or toe)
and much too much weight on the back portion of the blade, they
absolutely need a "roll bar" to adopt the correct setting
attitude..

On the opposite of the previous statement, the anchor tip NEED to be
weighted, as weight on the tip is one of the two criteria to ensure
a good penetration. (the second one is the right penetrating angle)

As there is not enough weight on the tip (about only 16% of the
total anchor weight) and too much weight on the back part of the
blade (or fluke), the only way to achieve the correct orientation is
to use a "roll bar".. but, if this appendage will solve this
question, it also add some more weight, again at the worse place, at
the back part of the blade.. and not on the toe of the anchor!..

Peaceful anchoring..

Alain


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 volt dinghy pump

eric freedman
 

Hi,

I found that the reason my dinghy pump was not working is that the switch
corroded.

I just soldered it permanently on and it has worked fine for some time.

Fair winds,

Eric

Sm 376 kimberlite



_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of John and Anne on Bali
Hai
Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2005 5:33 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 volt dinghy pump



Hello again,
It seems unlikely that both of the 12 volt pumps became defective
uinless they went for a swim. You could therefore separate them and if
one still works on 12 volts use that. You could get 12 volts at the
charttable or get a swtchmode converter 24-12 volts. This would
certainly be cheaper and just as good as buying two new pumps for
£140 !

Regards John Bali Hai, SM319






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24 volt dinghy pump

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Hello again,
It seems unlikely that both of the 12 volt pumps became defective
uinless they went for a swim. You could therefore separate them and if
one still works on 12 volts use that. You could get 12 volts at the
charttable or get a swtchmode converter 24-12 volts. This would
certainly be cheaper and just as good as buying two new pumps for
£140 !

Regards John Bali Hai, SM319


SM 2000 for sale

syhanaleism <syhanaleism@...>
 

Year 99, # 266. - This boat has been well taken care of and is very
clean. - New sails (jib and main), new batteries, many extras, lots of
spare parts, a complete set of tools, a well structured documentation
and an updated log sheet for every serviceable part make her a
reliable option for safe, long range, blue water cruising in great
comfort. - Fully equipped, she is ready to sail anywhere. - Present
location: Florida. - Price US$ 435'000.-- (no VAT paid in the EC)
Please ask for more details.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Client looking for Amel Mango

Randy Kilmon <drifter01us@...>
 

Hi Derek,
He doesn't REALLY want a Mango, as they are much
slower than a SM 2000. Also, nowhere near as many
advanced systems.
So, sell him "Drifter"!! I have just opened up my
broker to co-op arrangements, so plenty of commission
there for you.
If your customer insists on a Mango, I know of one
stored for the hurricane season in the Caribbean. It's
owned by a friend of mine and is in excellent
condition. My friend wasn't planning on selling his
Mango until after next season, but he might be
interested. I'll give you his e-mail address after I
check with him.
(But, we're leaving tomorrow for a little trip. Back
here about the 21st.)
Cheers,
Randy

--- Derek jarvis <sailorman522000@...> wrote:

Ahoy
I have a client looking for an Amel Mango in good
condition.He wants the furling main version.
He would prefer a boat on the west coast or Mexico
but would be open to an east coast Amel as well.
I can be contacted at 954-761-1122 or
derek@...
Cheers Derek

__________________________________________________
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Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
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Client looking for Amel Mango

Derek jarvis <sailorman522000@...>
 

Ahoy
I have a client looking for an Amel Mango in good condition.He wants the furling main version.
He would prefer a boat on the west coast or Mexico but would be open to an east coast Amel as well.
I can be contacted at 954-761-1122 or derek@...
Cheers Derek

__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement

eric freedman
 

Charlie,

I just used a big black magic marker and marked the aft end with a line.

Fair winds,

Eric

Sm 376



_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of svmalaika@...
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2005 2:51 AM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement



Eric,

I agree orientation is important. I always fit the tool so the hole where
the
line is secured is visible.

Charlie







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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement

svmalaika@...
 

Eric,

I agree orientation is important. I always fit the tool so the hole where the
line is secured is visible.

Charlie


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement

eric freedman
 

Mark,

It is also good to mark the amel tool at its aft end so when you bring the
thruster back into the boat you will be able to align it.

Fair winds,

Eric

SM 376



_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of svmalaika@...
Sent: Monday, June 13, 2005 6:18 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement



Mark (and Others),

The AMEL supplied tool is very easy to use. Here is how I have done it six
times, twice on our boat and four times on other AMELs we've met.

1) Secure the bow thrust shaft by placing the hose clamp around the shaft
about 5 cm (2 inches) below where the shaft connects to the motor.

2) Remove the collar (if fitted) around the base of the motor and remove the

four screws that secure the shaft to the motor base. This will free the
shaft
to slide down until it is held by the hose clamp (important) fitted in 1
above.

3) Insert the AMEL tool into the shaft and secure it with the two screws
provided Make sure the screws are set in the two holes in the tool.

4) Wrap plastic electrical tape around the space between the tool and the
shaft to prevent salt water from entering the shaft.

5. Secure the end of the line on the AMEL tool, loosen the hose clamp and
slowly lower the bow thruster assembly into the water.

6) Using a boat hook on deck snag the line and bring the bow thruster prop
assembly on board.

7) Replace the prop as previously described (if you need details let me
know).

8) While the unit is on deck it is a good idea to drain the oil by inverting

the unit (after removing the tape and tool) and replacing it with SEA 90W
gear
oil.

9) Refit the tool, tape and lower it into the water.

10) Haul it up from inside, check orientation and reset the hose clamp (so
you don't lose the unit)

11) Now the only hard part. Fit the shaft into the base of the motor so the
spline fits and the unit can b secured by the four secures. Replace the
collar
and test.

Good luck,
Charlie
S/V MALAIKA II
Barcelona, SPAIN







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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement

Mark Pitt
 

I have the bow thruster replacement tool but have not had
the occasion to use it. If I did needto use it, I am not sure that
I know how to. The English translation of the instructions that
came with it are very difficult to follow. I would greatly appreciate
it if someone could supply a more clearly worded set of instructions,

Mark
SM #419 Sabbatical III

eric wrote:

Using the amel tool it takes about an hour and a half.

My problem with changing the prop under water was that the stainless pin had
twisted into the holder and had to be cut out of the plastic- when I removed
the thruster to the deck it was a very simple job.

Fair winds,

Eric

Sm 376 Kimberlite.



_____
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of rossirossix4
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 2:42 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement



I've lost my bow thruster prop. Does anyone have experience in
removing the bow thruster foot or replacing the prop without taking
the boat out of the water? I see that amel sells a kit for doing
this. Is it worth getting (vs paying for a haul). I read a comment
somewhere that it was hard to do. I'm trying to decide if I should
haul it (I just put it in) or wait for the special device from Amel.

Also, can someone give me detailed instructions on replacing the
prop? Seems like removing the screws, if they have sheared off, could
be a problem.

Thanks.

Bob





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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement

svmalaika@...
 

Mark (and Others),

The AMEL supplied tool is very easy to use. Here is how I have done it six
times, twice on our boat and four times on other AMELs we've met.

1) Secure the bow thrust shaft by placing the hose clamp around the shaft
about 5 cm (2 inches) below where the shaft connects to the motor.

2) Remove the collar (if fitted) around the base of the motor and remove the
four screws that secure the shaft to the motor base. This will free the shaft
to slide down until it is held by the hose clamp (important) fitted in 1 above.

3) Insert the AMEL tool into the shaft and secure it with the two screws
provided Make sure the screws are set in the two holes in the tool.

4) Wrap plastic electrical tape around the space between the tool and the
shaft to prevent salt water from entering the shaft.

5. Secure the end of the line on the AMEL tool, loosen the hose clamp and
slowly lower the bow thruster assembly into the water.

6) Using a boat hook on deck snag the line and bring the bow thruster prop
assembly on board.

7) Replace the prop as previously described (if you need details let me know).

8) While the unit is on deck it is a good idea to drain the oil by inverting
the unit (after removing the tape and tool) and replacing it with SEA 90W gear
oil.

9) Refit the tool, tape and lower it into the water.

10) Haul it up from inside, check orientation and reset the hose clamp (so
you don't lose the unit)

11) Now the only hard part. Fit the shaft into the base of the motor so the
spline fits and the unit can b secured by the four secures. Replace the collar
and test.

Good luck,
Charlie
S/V MALAIKA II
Barcelona, SPAIN


Help please !!! Painting Deck ??

Jochen Hofmann <jochen@...>
 

Hello fellow Amel owners.

Our Maramu #143 launched in 1984 has a very "tired" Gelcoat by now -
especially in the white antislip areas. She has recently received a
full Awlgrip painting for the hull and superstructures, and she looks
almost like new now if it was not for the deck. The white antislip
deck starts to develop very small black holes by now and I am sure I
have to do something about that (the "false teak" areas are still in
reasonably goot shape so I follow Amel's suggestion there and will not
paint). However I have seen lots of bad to very bad solutions for this
problem on other boats (including some Maramus and Sharkys). Does
anyone have a GOOD solution to this ?

Since I am even starting to have arguments with my wife (and perfect
mate) over the issue I would really appreciate your opinions.

PS the boat is in southern Turkey so lots of heat and UV.

Thanks and fair winds,

Jochen Hofmann, SY Blue Song


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 Volt Airpump for Dingi

Patrick Naegels <naegels@...>
 

Hi Rudy,



If there is no more 24V air pump to inflate your dinghy, you can find on the
market good 220V air pump for this use. Look at Italian manufacturers on
Google. Use it with your converter or Onan genset.



Patrick (Caramel SM#329)



_____

De : amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] De la part de rzurkirchen2003
Envoyé : dimanche 12 juin 2005 11:25
À : amelyachtowners@...
Objet : Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 Volt Airpump for Dingi



The first thing I did,was to ask Amel in Hyeres.
They told me, that there dont supply anymore this pumps, as it is
a "bricolage".
I should look on the market, were 24 V Airpumps should existe. (
other amelowners seems to be buying those). I could not get an
adress so far from anyone, neither found I this feature in the
internet.



-- In amelyachtowners@..., "Jerome Le Conte" <JLC@N...>
wrote:
Why don't you ask Amel ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "rzurkirchen2003" <r.zurkirchen@v...>
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 6:03 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 Volt Airpump for Dingi


Hi to all,
is there anyone who has a suplyer adress for 24 Volt Dingipump,
The
one Amel delivered, is now out of order.
Thanks for Infos
Rudy
SAMANTHA SM#407






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 Volt Airpump for Dingi

r.zurkirchen
 

The first thing I did,was to ask Amel in Hyeres.
They told me, that there dont supply anymore this pumps, as it is
a "bricolage".
I should look on the market, were 24 V Airpumps should existe. (
other amelowners seems to be buying those). I could not get an
adress so far from anyone, neither found I this feature in the
internet.



-- In amelyachtowners@..., "Jerome Le Conte" <JLC@N...>
wrote:
Why don't you ask Amel ?
----- Original Message -----
From: "rzurkirchen2003" <r.zurkirchen@v...>
To: <amelyachtowners@...>
Sent: Monday, June 06, 2005 6:03 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 Volt Airpump for Dingi


Hi to all,
is there anyone who has a suplyer adress for 24 Volt Dingipump,
The
one Amel delivered, is now out of order.
Thanks for Infos
Rudy
SAMANTHA SM#407






Yahoo! Groups Links







Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement

rossirossix4 <equinoxsolstice@...>
 

Thanks everyone, for your advice and ideas on bow-thruster
replacement without short hauling the boat--I did replace it in the
water.

Everyone's advice was valid, but I thought I would share my
experience and ideas.

I was able to drive the old pin out, using a correctly sized
Craftsman punch with small taps from a hammer and grabing the end
with a Vice-Grip and twist/pulling it out the other end. Believe it
or not, I was able to do this hanging off my dingy with my son
holding the dingy into the boat. However, a better way, and one I
had to resort to to attach the prop--was simply floating next to the
bowthruster while wearing a PFD and reaching down with both hands to
work on it. I started out with a snorkle and mask but found (perhaps
due to the opacity of Chesapeake Bay water) that floating with the
head above water was easier.

First I hauled the thruster up about 2" to make it more accessable
under water--you only need access to the hub and this helps a little.
Next, I lightly sanded the inside edge of the prop that pushes onto
the collar and lubed the inside of this area of the prop with
Lanocoat. This helped it slide on easier and allowed me to rotate
it on the hub to line-up the six holes. I tied a keeper line around
one blade of the prop. Because it tapers out larger, this secures
the pricey little guy! I also had used a small nylon string to do
the same thing with the white collar by going through one of the
threaded holes. Working with both hands, I think that the best way
to push the prop on is to grab around the thruster with the fingers
of both hands and push the prop on simultaneously with both thumbs.
Lining up the six holes in the prop with the white collar was the
toughest task for me. I found that I had to back the prop off the
hub about half way and line up the holes with the punch and then ush
it on completly. Otherwise the prop and drive rotate together and I
could not line up the holes. Because the punch was smaller than the
holes I had to work it around in a circular motion to line up one of
the holes correctly. A better guide, like a plastic pen body might
be better. Lining up the holes was by far the most difficult task--
if you are in clear water, a snorkle and mask might let you do it
visually, but not in the Chesapeake! I had my son stand above me on
the deck and lower parts down with a bucket (including the nylon
screws--one at a time.

It wasn't too bad, but I will be buying the special tool. It sounds
like it is very useful if there are any complications, and of-course
could allow you to replace a seal or chack/change the 90wt oil.
Joel told me by phone that he has the process down to about 30
minutes.

Bob
Santorin Hull#86 Brittany de la Mer



--- In amelyachtowners@..., eric <kimberlite@o...> wrote:
Using the amel tool it takes about an hour and a half.

My problem with changing the prop under water was that the
stainless pin had
twisted into the holder and had to be cut out of the plastic- when
I removed
the thruster to the deck it was a very simple job.

Fair winds,

Eric

Sm 376 Kimberlite.



_____

From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of rossirossix4
Sent: Wednesday, June 01, 2005 2:42 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bow Thruster Prop Replacement



I've lost my bow thruster prop. Does anyone have experience in
removing the bow thruster foot or replacing the prop without
taking
the boat out of the water? I see that amel sells a kit for doing
this. Is it worth getting (vs paying for a haul). I read a
comment
somewhere that it was hard to do. I'm trying to decide if I
should
haul it (I just put it in) or wait for the special device from
Amel.

Also, can someone give me detailed instructions on replacing the
prop? Seems like removing the screws, if they have sheared off,
could
be a problem.

Thanks.

Bob





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