Date   

Onan electrolysis

John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
 

Hi Ian,

I had a problem after 30 months. I had overlooked replacing the anode
in the heat exchanger and it had disintegrated.My unit was grounded
when I got delivery in January 2001. The electrolysis had not damaged
the unit itself so far as I could see BUT the bronze end plates had
become dezincified and the outboard one had cracked right across. Only
the neoprene gasket had saved me from a potentially disastrous
leak.Also the paint was peeling off the unit. I repainted it and
fitted new endplates from Onan.

Strangely enough I have recently replaced the anode after a further 18
months and found it to be in good shape being only about 30-40 percent
wasted and the paint was also perfect. The easiest way to check the
condition of the unit is to take it off completely, also the remains
of the old zinc can be unscrewed from the holder and replaced with a
new zinc at much less cost.

I have no idea why the elecrolysis appears to have stopped. It might
have something to do with the fact that I replaced the magnesium anode
in the hot water heater a year ago and this resulted in the hot water
being 'fizzy' for a couple of months during which time I assume the
new anode disolved. Earlier on the mild steel 5 litre pressure vessel
behind the gen set failed becausse of electrolysis and when I replaced
it I used plastic fittings to connect it and that seems to have solved
that problem (at least the tap water has not started looking rusty red
yet).

Best wishes from Malta, Anne and John Hollamby, Bali Hai No 319


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM for Sale

Shann, Mark V <shannmv@...>
 

Hi Jerry, I have an 1984 Maramu and am looking to move up. Based in Med,
but may more to Trinidad next year, could you send me some more details,
price and if poss, photos,

Thanks

Mark Shann
Synnefoula

-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@...
[mailto:amelyachtowners@...] On Behalf Of PFM53
Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2005 6:36 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM for Sale

Hi all

After much agonizing, my wife and I have decided to sell our 1995 Super
Maramu. When we bought her, we thought we were going to retire, but
have since discovered we are not quite ready to so yet. So, the
following is a brief description of "PFM":

The boat is US Coast Guard Registry

The aft cabin has a double bed with Vanity

The engine has been well maintained and we have never had a problem with
it.
It has approximately 2500 hours. Generator (also never had a problem)
has approximately 1600 hours

We have really had very few problems with the boat.

The inerior of the boat is very clean, no problems with the headliner
and minimal wear on any of the wood.

Following is a list of updates or additions

Full complitement of new sails (we replaced them in Oct 2002, sailed
across the Atlantic, then sailed to Trinidad - total use less than 6
months) as well as the old sails still in good shape, as spares

New hot water heater (used 1 month)

New windlass (used 1 month) - old one as spare

New mainsail electric motor (used 6 months)

SeaTel 2894 stabilized TV antenna - LNB for both Americas and Europe

Bezzenzoni hydraulic passarel (new in Oct 2002)


PowerStat 3000 110v charger/inverter and original 220v charger

Furuno integrated Radar/GPS display at both helm and nav station below

New batteries (I will be putting new ones in next month)

Custom-made Subrella bimini/cockpit cover/mosquito net and shade cover
(replaced the stock bimini and raised it to accomodate our height)

CD changer

Furuno Weather FAX

AB aluminum bottom 3.2 meter dinghy with Honda 15HP 4 stroke engine
(both purchased in 2000, but used very little)

She is currently in Trinidad and we will be moving her up to Florida in
the next month or so to be listed with Joel. If anyone is interested,
please contect us for more details.

Jerry Trimm
PFM




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SM for Sale

PFM53 <pfm53@...>
 

Hi all

After much agonizing, my wife and I have decided to sell our 1995 Super
Maramu. When we bought her, we thought we were going to retire, but have
since discovered we are not quite ready to so yet. So, the following is a
brief description of "PFM":

The boat is US Coast Guard Registry

The aft cabin has a double bed with Vanity

The engine has been well maintained and we have never had a problem with it.
It has approximately 2500 hours. Generator (also never had a problem) has
approximately 1600 hours

We have really had very few problems with the boat.

The inerior of the boat is very clean, no problems with the headliner and
minimal wear on any of the wood.

Following is a list of updates or additions

Full complitement of new sails (we replaced them in Oct 2002, sailed across
the Atlantic, then sailed to Trinidad - total use less than 6 months) as well
as the old sails still in good shape, as spares

New hot water heater (used 1 month)

New windlass (used 1 month) - old one as spare

New mainsail electric motor (used 6 months)

SeaTel 2894 stabilized TV antenna - LNB for both Americas and Europe

Bezzenzoni hydraulic passarel (new in Oct 2002)


PowerStat 3000 110v charger/inverter and original 220v charger

Furuno integrated Radar/GPS display at both helm and nav station below

New batteries (I will be putting new ones in next month)

Custom-made Subrella bimini/cockpit cover/mosquito net and shade cover
(replaced the stock bimini and raised it to accomodate our height)

CD changer

Furuno Weather FAX

AB aluminum bottom 3.2 meter dinghy with Honda 15HP 4 stroke engine (both
purchased in 2000, but used very little)

She is currently in Trinidad and we will be moving her up to Florida in the
next month or so to be listed with Joel. If anyone is interested, please
contect us for more details.

Jerry Trimm
PFM


Onan Electrolysis

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

Our SM is no 302, June 2000 launch, now with 1950 hours on the Onan.Some time ago I mentioned on this forum that I had suffered from electrolysis on the heat exchanger. This became evident almost from new. Onan UK couldnt understand it, would not confirm that it was electrolysis and told me that in their experience the anode was unnecessary. However, when I showed the problem to La R on a visit there after two years they recognised the problem and added an earth strip from the heat exchanger to the tray.
Unfortunately this did not stop a leak developing in the heat exchanger about a year later. I assumed that the damage must have preceded the addition of the earth strip. I could not get the hole welded as apparently the heat exchanger is mad of some alloy which does not lend itself to repairs of that sort, and so I bought a replacement ( some $300 odd).
However, although earthed from the start, the new exchanger is going the same way ( After about 700 hours). The paint is bubbling up where the seawater intake pipe joins the body of the exchanger, with the metal pitting with a product that looks like salt ( but isnt) and now, ironically, the paint and metal around the anode entry point is following suit.The anode itself is almost untouched.
It seems to me that it is matter of time before this exchanger goes the way of its predecessor, which I have kept and patched with epoxy as an emergency spare.

Has anyone else had this problem...and found a solution?

Having said all this , we have just completed a wonderful season , some 4,500 miles over six months sailing two handed between Puerto Montt in Chile to Piriapolis in Uruguay, via the Chilean canals and Cape Horn ( where we landed and visited the lighthouse keeper and his wife), anchoring in over 50 remote anchorages and finishing with a blast of a sail from the Le Maire straits to Mar del Plata, averaging 174 miles a day for 8 days, with wind speeds topping at 59.7 knots, and the only thing that went wrong the whole season was the light bulb in the fridge which packed up on our last day. About par for the course for an Amel, I guess.
Cheers, Ian and Judy Jenkins, Pen Azen, Piriapolis, Uruguay.


Looking for a crew member to sail from Seattle to Australia

Rob Brennan <brennan@...>
 

Greetings

We are in the process of entering into a swift purchase of Supermaramu 'Serena Azul' from Seattle, USA.

Our timeframe to set sail from San Fransciso is short, and planned departure for Sydney Australia is 28th May.

We'd be keen to hear from any very able sailors, particularly those with Maramu experience, who might be interested in joining the 2 crew - including a Master sailor .

Our email contact is brennan@... or phone Australia 62 6295 9608

We look forward to hearing from you!

Our best wishes

Rob Brennan and Glen McGuire


SULAJON SM #347 ENGINE WON'T RESTART WHEN HOT

jfolino901 <jfolino901@...>
 

I HAVE REPORTED IN THIS FORUM A RECURRING PROBLEM WITH MY YANMAR. IF
I
HAVE MOTORED FOR A WHILE AT SPEED, SHUT THE ENGINE OFF AND
IMMEDIATELY
TRY TO RESTART, IT IS LIKE THE BATERRY IS TOTALLY DEAD!
THAT IS THE STARTER MOTOR DOESN'T ENGAGE, IN FACT THERE ISN'T ANY
SOLENOID CLICK WHATSOEVER. AFTER A LONG PERIOD OF TIME THE ENGINE
WILL
RESTART AS IF NOTHING HAPPENED.
THIS FIRST HAPPENED WHILE I WAS IN GUADELOUPE AND LAURENT CHANGED THE
SOLENOID TO ONE THAT HAS AN OVERRIDE BUTTON ON IT. NOW I MUST HAVE 2
PEOPLE ABOARD. ONE TO PRESS THIS BUTTON, THE OTHER TO TURN THE START
KEY.
HAS ANYONE HAD THIS PROBLEM AND GOT TO THE ROOT OF THE PROBLEM?
MIGHT IT BE DUE TO A SAFETY FEATURE THAT WON'T LET THE ENGINE RESTART
IF IT AS TO HOT?
MY YANMAR SERIAL # IS E11660, MODEL # IS 4JH3-TE

SM #347 SULAJON
JOHN FOLINO


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SULAJON SM #347 ENGINE WON'T RESTART WHEN HOT

svmalaika@...
 

I had a similar problem on MALAIKA II (SM #336) and it turned out to be a
defective "grounding" selenoid. As you may know, AMEL installs a second selenoid
that opens the engine grounding circuit when the engine is off so it is
completely electrically isolated. I replaced that selenoid and have not had a
problem since.

Charlie
MALAIKA II
Barcelona, SPAIN


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] SM Onan Generator smoking badly

svmalaika@...
 

With diesel engines black smoke means a rich mixture which is usually due to
restricted air flow (check and clean air intake). Blue/white smoke means a
lean mixture which is often due to restricted fuel flow (check & clean filters,
pump, etc.). Injectors may be the problem, but if the engine is running fairly
smoothly I'd check other causes first.

Charlie
MALAIKA II
Barcelona, SPAIN


SM Onan Generator smoking badly

Graham Boyd
 

The Onan on my SM is smoking badly when under load. Before I remove the
injecters for cleaning and servicing, has anyone else had this problem
and are there any hidden snags or good to know techniques in the
removal process(the onan instruction book gives no guidance)? Did
cleaning the injecters stop the smoke? My geny has 1600 hours on it and
the injecters don't look as though they have been removed before. I
look forward your comments, as it's still cold in Scotland at this time
of year and I need the fan heaters to work without fumigating those
anchored down wind!

Graham Boyd


Super Maramu for sale

PFM53 <pfm53@...>
 

Hi Joel,

We have a 1995 Super Maramu that we would like to put on the market. We
needed to know how you handle this. Please get in touch with us and let us
know what you need. We can bring her to Ft. Lauderdale, she is currently in
Trinidad.

Looking forward to hearing from you.

Catherine Trimm


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel Euros 41 happy new owner

Eduardo Conde <corposervices@...>
 

Estimado José Luis:
Tambien soy propietario desde hace 5 años de un Amel Euros 41, resido en Venezuela y durante estos ultimos años he venido restaurando y mejorando algunos aspectos de mi viejo y noble barco.
Me pongo a tu disposición para interncambiar información.

Saludos Cordiales
Eduardo Conde
M/v Samadhi

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...> wrote:

Hello,

I have bought a month ago an Amel Euros 41 hull nr 212.
I am refitting it and I already have taken it to sea in Almeria, near
Gibraltar Strait.

Glad to hear from other Amel owners.
JL





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---------------------------------



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


"THE CAPTAIN"

amelforme
 

Dear Amel Owners,



I regret to inform you that Henri Amel, "THE CAPTAIN" to all of us
associated with Chantiers Amel passed away on Tuesday April 12 just 4 days
shy of his birthday.

Captain Amel would have been 92 years old tomorrow.



I was at the Shipyard in La Rochelle when he passed. The flags were dropped
to half staff, the workers were informed, and everyone paused to consider
the greatness of this man who was, truly, larger than life itself. Those of
you who knew him will fully understand that. Those of you who never had the
pleasure of meeting the Captain, let me just say that he was an extremely
strong willed person who continually made lemonade from all the lemons
tossed in his path throughout his life. He turned his blindness into a
vision that we all reap the rewards from today in the Amel boats we enjoy.
He butted heads with bureaucrats and naysayers who would have denied him the
beginnings of what is now Chantiers Amel.



Alternately (and some would say in equal measure) loved and feared by those
who worked for him, we are all united in our deep respect for the man and
all he created. We will miss his truly unique presence and his powerful
character.



God speed, Captain.



Joel F. Potter,

SM 400 "MARY BROWN"


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Downwind sailind with Ballooner

Krassopoulos Dimitris <dkra@...>
 

Dear All,

I have recently purchased from Gateff an Assymetric Spi ( 140 sqr.m) for
Alma Libre. It works very well below the 90 apparent.
It totally changed the sailing performance of the boat. You can find details
in my web page www.almalibre.gr <http://www.almalibre.gr> .
I recommend it to all SM owners who want to increase the sail use in low
wind conditions going downwind( from 90-120) . The only problem you need
more crew if the wind conditions are not very calm and steady but it is fun.

Regards

Dimitris


_____

From: kimberlite [mailto:kimberlite@...]
Sent: Thursday, April 14, 2005 7:27 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Downwind sailind with Ballooner


Vito,

Nice to hear from you!!

Make sure you have some spare rivets for the pole ends.

If you dip the pole, the end might come off and need to be riveted.

I find the down wind rig works best from about 160 degrees to dead astern.

I keep it up to about 15-20 knots apparent then furl. I find that my
gennaker gets a lot more use and is quicker to set up.

Fair winds,

Eric

Sm 376 Kimberlite



_____

From: asm283 [mailto:no_reply@...]
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2005 1:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Downwind sailind with Balloner




Hello Everyone.

In the next few weeks I will be starting a hopefully long downwind
run from Guadaloupe to the South Pacific via the Panama Canal.

I have a few questions on the use of the double pole system and the
balloner.

I have set the system up but never did any significant milage.

1- When do you start to reef and what is the proper procedure?

2- What wind angles are best?

3- Do you adjust the poles to be perpendicular to the wind or do you
leave the poles straight out?

4- What wind speed so you take the sytem down?

5- What sail combinations work best?

6-Would you use the mizzen staysail as well?

7- Any other suggestons would be helpfull.

Joel you are welcome to weigh in on this.

Thank you


Vito Ciaravino

Wanderer
ASM#283








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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Downwind sailind with Ballooner

eric freedman
 

Vito,

Nice to hear from you!!

Make sure you have some spare rivets for the pole ends.

If you dip the pole, the end might come off and need to be riveted.

I find the down wind rig works best from about 160 degrees to dead astern.

I keep it up to about 15-20 knots apparent then furl. I find that my
gennaker gets a lot more use and is quicker to set up.

Fair winds,

Eric

Sm 376 Kimberlite



_____

From: asm283 [mailto:no_reply@...]
Sent: Wednesday, April 13, 2005 1:48 PM
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Downwind sailind with Balloner




Hello Everyone.

In the next few weeks I will be starting a hopefully long downwind
run from Guadaloupe to the South Pacific via the Panama Canal.

I have a few questions on the use of the double pole system and the
balloner.

I have set the system up but never did any significant milage.

1- When do you start to reef and what is the proper procedure?

2- What wind angles are best?

3- Do you adjust the poles to be perpendicular to the wind or do you
leave the poles straight out?

4- What wind speed so you take the sytem down?

5- What sail combinations work best?

6-Would you use the mizzen staysail as well?

7- Any other suggestons would be helpfull.

Joel you are welcome to weigh in on this.

Thank you


Vito Ciaravino

Wanderer
ASM#283








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* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/

* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@...
<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@...?subject=Unsubscribe>

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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Downwind sailind with Balloner

tom mcguffy <tmcguffy@...>
 

Dear Vito,
I just completed a transatlantic from Portugal to Trinidad and from there all the way up to Houston so I used the poles quite a bit.
1. I would begin to think about reefing when the wind reaches 15K apparent. I have had them up in 20K apparent.
2. Wind angle 150 to 150 apparent
3. Always leave the poles perpendicular
4. Same as 1.
5. I usually have the jib on the windward side and the ballooner on leeward side
6. If you use the staysail it will interfear with one of the downwind sails. I have used the ballooner w/o the pole and the staysail when the wind was further forward than 150.
7. I have modified my downwind system. I have a sock on the ballooner and always freefly it which makes hoisting and takedowns much easier. I have both starboard and port spinnaker halyards.
Hope this helps.
Tom McGuffy, SV Tempest

From: asm283 <no_reply@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Downwind sailind with Balloner
Date: Wed, 13 Apr 2005 17:48:02 -0000


Hello Everyone.

In the next few weeks I will be starting a hopefully long downwind
run from Guadaloupe to the South Pacific via the Panama Canal.

I have a few questions on the use of the double pole system and the
balloner.

I have set the system up but never did any significant milage.

1- When do you start to reef and what is the proper procedure?

2- What wind angles are best?

3- Do you adjust the poles to be perpendicular to the wind or do you
leave the poles straight out?

4- What wind speed so you take the sytem down?

5- What sail combinations work best?

6-Would you use the mizzen staysail as well?

7- Any other suggestons would be helpfull.

Joel you are welcome to weigh in on this.

Thank you


Vito Ciaravino

Wanderer
ASM#283





Downwind sailind with Balloner

asm283 <no_reply@...>
 

Hello Everyone.

In the next few weeks I will be starting a hopefully long downwind
run from Guadaloupe to the South Pacific via the Panama Canal.

I have a few questions on the use of the double pole system and the
balloner.

I have set the system up but never did any significant milage.

1- When do you start to reef and what is the proper procedure?

2- What wind angles are best?

3- Do you adjust the poles to be perpendicular to the wind or do you
leave the poles straight out?

4- What wind speed so you take the sytem down?

5- What sail combinations work best?

6-Would you use the mizzen staysail as well?

7- Any other suggestons would be helpfull.

Joel you are welcome to weigh in on this.

Thank you


Vito Ciaravino

Wanderer
ASM#283


Sagging Roof Liners

minaxi53 <no_reply@...>
 

So, having read in the past of various older SM's having the roof
liner fall down, I find that Minaxi's did just that during the Winter
layover.
Joel's notes about how to scrape of all the toxic stuff really put me
off, so I went for the second option. I can really say this was far
easier and suggest anyone who has same problem should do same.
I bought a piece of Mahogany and cut strips 2" x 1/2" to fit all the
areas. After 3 coats of varnish they look just like the Amel strips.
It takes 2 people to put them up, one to hold and one to screw. It is
a lot easier on the areas that had not peeled away altogether, so do
it soon if you have to.
I have posted a picture showing one of the 3 cabins done. It looks as
if it was always like that.
Bob


Re: hull sanding

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

I include my conversation with Joachim for the benefit of all.

Hello Jose_Luis,

regarding the deck there are different ideas to consider. My final
decision was:

I am going to put the anti-slip material treadmaster
(http://www.tiflex.co.uk/marine/marine.html) on the side walks but
not on the cabin roofs. This was mainly due to optical reasons. The
website has also a spanish version.



The pictures are taken from KIRK # 233 which is owned by my best
friend. He put the treadmaster on in 1989. Pictures where taken this
year.

I did grind the original anti slip approximately 2/3 down. These
areas will be painted and an anti slip additive ( sand ! ) will be
added to the first layer of 2 component paint. The 2nd layer of
paint will partly cover the sand, that takes out the "bite of the
sand" when you sit on it.. On www.yachtpaint.com you will find a lot
of information probably also in Spanish. VC 17 is a antifouling
paint which creates a very thin layer of paint and dries in a very
short time.

I completed the first sanding with 60 grid last wekend and will do a
final sanding with 180 grid to all the original anti slip areas. The
other areas wil get a final sanding with 320 grid. Right now the
temperatures are on their way down in northern Germany so it will
take probably another 4 weeks before we get proper outside
conditions.

In case you have any question please let me - or the forum- know. I
own own my KIRK now for 2 years but my best friend owns # 233 now
for 18 years so we have a pretty good knowledge about the older AMEL
boats.

Next whe will have to replace the old wall coverings hanging down
from the roof also a favorite AMEL item for a replacement.

Enjoy your new boat, the boats might not be good looking but
usability is very high.

Best regards from Hamburg

Joachim

----- Original Message -----
From: Isasi Jose Luis-LJI004
To: "Hans-Joachim Schröder"
Sent: Monday, April 04, 2005 9:58 AM
Subject: RE: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: hull sanding


Hello Joachim,



Thank you for your prompt answer, I was afraid you were not using
anymore this email address.

I am glad you are starting with the deck, because I will have to do
it as well sooner or later.

I was wondering how to paint the deck without killing the antislip.

Could you elaborate on how are you going to do it?

I am not familiar with terms like treadmaster and 2k paint, or VC 17
products. I will check the web link you mention.

This my first owned boat and I think I have a lot to learn.



Vielen Dank

Jose_Luis



-----Original Message-----
From: "Hans-Joachim Schröder" [mailto:achimschro@...]
Sent: sábado, 02 de abril de 2005 10:48
To: Isasi Jose Luis-LJI004
Subject: FW: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: hull sanding



"Hans-Joachim Schröder" <achimschro@...> schrieb am 02.04.05
10:43:43:



Hello Jose_Luis,

congratulations to the new Amel boat. I hope you will enjoy it as
much we do enjoy the smaller version KIRK # 81 built in 1972.
Welcome to the forum for amel owners.

Sorry for writing in German. . Because I thought this message was
for a german owner I referred to German products. Those are
available in Spain check www.festool.es.

I did a complete renovation of a boat which had osmosis . For
sanding down the hull I used a FESTO ROTEX sander which a very
professional tool and fortunately comparatively heavy. In the last I
had to sand down the underwater area of my Kirk I used 40 grid
sandpaper and the rotating mode of the machine. I removed the
complete gelcoat and checked the laminate. I should be almost free
of "White Llines" this is where the old polyester doesn't stick to
the glass mat and is therefore o good start for osmosis in the
future.

I my posting i stated that for sanding the bottom you might need
good sanding paper with 120, 180 and 240 for the finish. We have a
very smooth bottom area where we use VC 17 products. This is because
we do some club racing and are succesfull with this "old ship". For
the deck area you can start with 120 grid and then 240 and 320.
Please keep in mind that preparation incl. sanding, fairing and
stripping off the equipment will take almost 90 % of the total time.
But after that you should be save for another 15 years.

This year I am renovating the deck area. Because this is the first
time after 33 years. This needs a lot of sanding of the antislip
deck areas. I am planning to cover the walking areas with
treadmaster and paint the upper deck areas with 2k paint. But this
willtake another month because I live in northern Germany where the
current outside temparature is now at 6 degrees with a chance of
frost overnight.

If you need any further information please do not hesitate to
contact me. Your German is by far better than my non-exisiting
spanish.

Good luck and fair winds

Joachim





--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Jose_Luis Isasi"
<jose.luis.isasi@m...> wrote:

Hello Joachim,

Could you please translate into English for me?
I am very interested in your answer aber mein deutsch ist nicht so
gut.

Vielen dank
Jose_Luis (Spain)


Hallo Martin,

wegen der Schleifmaschine kann ich nur zu einer Festo Rotex
raten.

Ich habe damit eine Osomosesanierung an einem 30qm
Unterwasserschiff
durchgeührt (kein Amel Schiff!) sowie Rumpf und Deck geschliffen.

Für das Schleifpapier sollte man auch Festo -Brilliant- nehmen.
Zum
abschleifen etwa 120 er für den Zwischenschliff 180er und zum
Finish
240er. Die Vorbereitungen für die Lackierung werden rd. 80% der
Gesamtzeit betragen. Ich würde meinen, das für den Rumpf
oberhalb
der
Wasserlinie jeweils 15 Scheiben ausreichen müßten. Für den
Unterwasserteil rd. 10 Scheiben 80er und 10 Scheiben 120er je
nach
Qualitätsvorstellung.

Für weitere Fragen bitte direkte mail.

Gutes Gelingen

Joachim


Re: hull sanding

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Hello Joachim,

Could you please translate into English for me?
I am very interested in your answer aber mein deutsch ist nicht so
gut.

Vielen dank
Jose_Luis (Spain)


Hallo Martin,

wegen der Schleifmaschine kann ich nur zu einer Festo Rotex raten.

Ich habe damit eine Osomosesanierung an einem 30qm
Unterwasserschiff
durchgeührt (kein Amel Schiff!) sowie Rumpf und Deck geschliffen.

Für das Schleifpapier sollte man auch Festo -Brilliant- nehmen.
Zum
abschleifen etwa 120 er für den Zwischenschliff 180er und zum
Finish
240er. Die Vorbereitungen für die Lackierung werden rd. 80% der
Gesamtzeit betragen. Ich würde meinen, das für den Rumpf oberhalb
der
Wasserlinie jeweils 15 Scheiben ausreichen müßten. Für den
Unterwasserteil rd. 10 Scheiben 80er und 10 Scheiben 120er je nach
Qualitätsvorstellung.

Für weitere Fragen bitte direkte mail.

Gutes Gelingen

Joachim


Amel Euros 41 happy new owner

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Hello,

I have bought a month ago an Amel Euros 41 hull nr 212.
I am refitting it and I already have taken it to sea in Almeria, near
Gibraltar Strait.

Glad to hear from other Amel owners.
JL