Hi,

We took a Santorin up and down the ICW around 5 years ago without problems. You cannot go south of Lauderdale as there is a "low" bridge between Lauderdale and Miami.
After the Deleware you have to go to sea as the ICW is too shallow from there to NY.

We touched bottom a couple of time and once had to wait at an inlet for the tide to rise to crose a bar. We have heard lately that the Corps of Engineers are no longer maintaining the depths in the waterway due to funding cuts (The money is going to fight wars abroad!). I would try to find up to date info on depths in the ICW as this may be your limiting factor.

Regards,

Robin Cooter.
Santorin 004 - Belouga.


George Cerillo <gmcerillo@yahoo.com> wrote:
Does anyone know the mast height of the Amel 46' Santorin? Is this
vessel ICW compatible?






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A Smarter Inbox.

Is the material used PVC or Hypalon. My wooden stern has completely
become un-glued from the patoons. Does anyone have a suggestion as to
what adhesive would be best to repair this? Thank You. Peter
Pappas "Callisto" sm2002 #369, Pt Vallarta, Mexico

Does anyone know the mast height of the Amel 46' Santorin? Is this
vessel ICW compatible?

Thanks everyone - your input is much appreciated.



Richard Piller <richard03801@yahoo.com> wrote: HI, most likely the due to lack of use the turbo charge is stuck. Pull off hose and clean with something like CRC 5-56 to free it up. To stop it from happening again from time to time bring the engine speed up to over 2800 and let it run for 10 min or more that will keep it free from carboning up and keep the upper end of the engine free of carbon as well. YOU WILL NOT HURT THE MOTOR BY DOING THIS>>>> IT IS MENT TO BE!!!
Richard SM 209 in Antigua

amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hi Niels:

There are a host of reasons why the engine may not make RPM:

1. RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL SUPPLY;
a. Check that the fuel supply valve is completely open, I couldn't make
RPM once and found that an object had fallen against the fuel shut off valve
in the quaterberth companionway and had partially closed it.
b. Partially clogged fuel filter(s), either or both of the on engine fuel
filter or the in line fuel filter.
c. Bad lift pump (more difficult to diagnose)
d. Clogged injectors (diagnose by swapping for new injectors, since it
is wise to have a spare set aboard, expensive though)

2. RESTRICTION IN THE AIR SUPPLY:
a. Turbo blades not turning easily due to:
a1. Coking in the turbine housing or on the turbine blades as discussed
by others.
b1. Coking of lubricating oil in the turbo center housing due to not letting
the turbo cool properly prior to shut down. Either item can cause the turbo to not
spin normally. Remove the exhaust side or the induction air side (whichever is
easiest, reach in and spin the turbo blades by hand. They should spin freely. If not
trouble shoot the cause.
b. Clogged or collapsed air filter.

3. EXCESSIVE LOADING OF THE ENGINE:
a. Dirty Prop (you already verified this isn't the problem).
b. Transmission malfunctioning (I haven't a clue how to trouble shoot this).
c. Dragging shaft brake. (rule out by direct observation).
d. Incorrect prop or prop malfunction. Can you make better RPM in reverse?

Be methodical in trouble shooting. Verify each component and good luck.

Gary Silver, Amel SM 335 with a Yanmar engine.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Niels Faerch" <nrfaerch@...> wrote:
>
> We're only getting 2400RPM with wide open throttle. The prop is clean
> as is the underbody. This means we are only capable of developing
> around +/- 60% of rated power say around 50-ish HP.
>
> Is is everyone accepting this or are you getting your props re-pitched
> prop?
>
> Would I be better off changing to a regular adjustable pitch
> feathering prop?
>
> Thanks
>

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HI, most likely the due to lack of use the turbo charge is stuck. Pull off hose and clean with something like CRC 5-56 to free it up. To stop it from happening again from time to time bring the engine speed up to over 2800 and let it run for 10 min or more that will keep it free from carboning up and keep the upper end of the engine free of carbon as well. YOU WILL NOT HURT THE MOTOR BY DOING THIS>>>> IT IS MENT TO BE!!!
Richard SM 209 in Antigua

amelliahona <no_reply@yahoogroups.com> wrote:
Hi Niels:

There are a host of reasons why the engine may not make RPM:

1. RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL SUPPLY;
a. Check that the fuel supply valve is completely open, I couldn't make
RPM once and found that an object had fallen against the fuel shut off valve
in the quaterberth companionway and had partially closed it.
b. Partially clogged fuel filter(s), either or both of the on engine fuel
filter or the in line fuel filter.
c. Bad lift pump (more difficult to diagnose)
d. Clogged injectors (diagnose by swapping for new injectors, since it
is wise to have a spare set aboard, expensive though)

2. RESTRICTION IN THE AIR SUPPLY:
a. Turbo blades not turning easily due to:
a1. Coking in the turbine housing or on the turbine blades as discussed
by others.
b1. Coking of lubricating oil in the turbo center housing due to not letting
the turbo cool properly prior to shut down. Either item can cause the turbo to not
spin normally. Remove the exhaust side or the induction air side (whichever is
easiest, reach in and spin the turbo blades by hand. They should spin freely. If not
trouble shoot the cause.
b. Clogged or collapsed air filter.

3. EXCESSIVE LOADING OF THE ENGINE:
a. Dirty Prop (you already verified this isn't the problem).
b. Transmission malfunctioning (I haven't a clue how to trouble shoot this).
c. Dragging shaft brake. (rule out by direct observation).
d. Incorrect prop or prop malfunction. Can you make better RPM in reverse?

Be methodical in trouble shooting. Verify each component and good luck.

Gary Silver, Amel SM 335 with a Yanmar engine.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Niels Faerch" <nrfaerch@...> wrote:

We're only getting 2400RPM with wide open throttle. The prop is clean
as is the underbody. This means we are only capable of developing
around +/- 60% of rated power say around 50-ish HP.

Is is everyone accepting this or are you getting your props re-pitched
prop?

Would I be better off changing to a regular adjustable pitch
feathering prop?

Thanks

---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.

Hi Niels:

There are a host of reasons why the engine may not make RPM:

1. RESTRICTION IN THE FUEL SUPPLY;
a. Check that the fuel supply valve is completely open, I couldn't make
RPM once and found that an object had fallen against the fuel shut off valve
in the quaterberth companionway and had partially closed it.
b. Partially clogged fuel filter(s), either or both of the on engine fuel
filter or the in line fuel filter.
c. Bad lift pump (more difficult to diagnose)
d. Clogged injectors (diagnose by swapping for new injectors, since it
is wise to have a spare set aboard, expensive though)

2. RESTRICTION IN THE AIR SUPPLY:
a. Turbo blades not turning easily due to:
a1. Coking in the turbine housing or on the turbine blades as discussed
by others.
b1. Coking of lubricating oil in the turbo center housing due to not letting
the turbo cool properly prior to shut down. Either item can cause the turbo to not
spin normally. Remove the exhaust side or the induction air side (whichever is
easiest, reach in and spin the turbo blades by hand. They should spin freely. If not
trouble shoot the cause.
b. Clogged or collapsed air filter.

3. EXCESSIVE LOADING OF THE ENGINE:
a. Dirty Prop (you already verified this isn't the problem).
b. Transmission malfunctioning (I haven't a clue how to trouble shoot this).
c. Dragging shaft brake. (rule out by direct observation).
d. Incorrect prop or prop malfunction. Can you make better RPM in reverse?

Be methodical in trouble shooting. Verify each component and good luck.

Gary Silver, Amel SM 335 with a Yanmar engine.

Hello Niels,

When we bought our SM she would only turn up 1800 RPM. I hade the
same
questions as you. The solution was easy once I learned how to "fix"
and "maintain" the turbo.

I removed the turbo from the engine for and soaked the hot side in a
bath of break fluid. This softend up the carbon deposits and freed
up
the "fan". Be careful of the shaft that controls the pressure relief
valve. Reinstall and your engine should turn up. My TMD22P is
supposed to turn up to 4100 RPM, but it never did get above 3850 RPM.
Then I tried a short cut, and this is what I would try first if I
were you. Be sure the engine and turbo are cold (very important),
remove the four nuts that hold the exhaust to the turbo. SLide the
exhaust piece just enough to allow the little red tube that comes
with
a can of aerosol carburatur cleaner in the gap between the turbo and
the loosened exhaust piece. Spray bunch of carb cleaner all around
the
turbo, pay special attention to the "fan" and pressure relief valve
and
shaft. Use your finger or soft tool to work the "fan" so that is
moves
easily. The carbon deposits will flush away and you are done. Put
it
all back together and run the engine. You should have your RPM back
until next time. There will be a next time. I believe that the
autoprop is way overpitched at the RPM's we use for speed vs fuel
economy. This causes the richness and the carbon to deposit on the
turbo. If you were to run your engine near wide open, your turbo
would
not "coke up", but you would not gain much speed and you would have
enough fuel to go about half way to where ever you wanted to go. Good
luck, I hope this helps.

Tony Gray
WORLD CITIZEN
SM #266



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Niels Faerch" <nrfaerch@...>
wrote:

We're only getting 2400RPM with wide open throttle. The prop is

clean

as is the underbody. This means we are only capable of developing
around +/- 60% of rated power say around 50-ish HP.

Is is everyone accepting this or are you getting your props re-

pitched

prop?

Would I be better off changing to a regular adjustable pitch
feathering prop?

Thanks

Dear All,

Next week the HISWA (Dutch Sailing Expo) takes place on which splendid
deals can be made. As the new owner of a SM (#39) I would love to
replace my running rigging. Does someone have an overview of the
original running rigging configuration (all ropes; halyards, sheets,
etc...) Length + thickness?

Thanks

Caspar

Hi Peter,
The transmission disc brake locks the shaft only when the engine is not running .

All the best,
Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist
Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas
Phone: 1 (954) 462-5869 Fax: 1 (954) 462-3923

should the disk break stop rotation of the engine shaft in nuetral, or
does the disk break stop the rotation only when the engine is turned
off. thanks peter pappas "callisto" sm396 Vallarta,Mexico

Tom, I wouldn`t give up on the stove so quick. I had the same problem I replaced the orifice with the next size larger. The oven went from 250 degress to 450 degrees. Doodle bug had a post about a year ago with some good advise. John "Moondog" SM 248


To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.comFrom: peacock@nhms.bizDate: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 20:25:10 +0000Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Stove Upgrade on SM




We have the original Eno two-burner stove on SM #241; the oven has died; even when it worked, it was never very hot.We have decided to purchase a new stove. Has anyone replace their stove? Any thoughts or suggestions? Which models did you consider.We have measured all dimensions, and are considering a Platismo 3000, which is 500 mm wide; it appears that it may fit perfectly into the gimbal/frame on the old stove, which is quite sturdy.Thanks,Tom PeacockSM 241






_________________________________________________________________
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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I believe that there could be a very fouled autoprop propeller you have to
dive to check. I had the same problem the engine could not go above 2000 rpm
and the properel was badly fouled by barnacles.



Dimitris

S/Y Alma Libre

www.almalibre.gr



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Joel F. Potter
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 4:24 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Volvo/Autoprop not making rated RPM..advice
please



Check the fuel filters first then check the turbocharger,especially if the
boat has been
inactive. I have had bad luck rebuilding these turbos for AMEL customers as
they usually
fail again quickly. Better to replace them. What color is the exhaust smoke
at maximum
revolutions and is it excessive?

All the best,
Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist
Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas
Phone: 1 (954) 462-5869 Fax: 1 (954) 462-3923

Greetings,

At 1200 hours I performed routine maintenance on our heat exchanger on
our Yanmar 100 hp engine. While doing this we also chose to inspect the
intercooler. The heat exchanger and the intercooler were relatively
clean, however we noticed some erosion on the face of the intercooler
housing where it meets an end cap. The housing is sealed with the end
cap with an 1/8" X 3 5/8" O-Ring (Yanmar part #129673-18250). I created
a photo album and inserted a photo of this problem. The photo album is
named "Intercooler Yanmar 100hp."

I sent photos of this problem to a Yanmar Distributor in the US and
received the following reply:
"The damage to your intercooler was most likely due to erosion or
cavitation at the point where the water leaked past the o-ring rather
than electrolysis. We do not see any evidence of a fault in the
casting."

Bob Schroer, Service and Parts Coordinator
Mack Boring & Parts Company
Phone: (866)526-9717 Fax: (847)526-9708 E-mail: bschroer@mackboring.com

If you have this engine, I would suggest checking this intercooler
housing. It is very easy to remove and disassemble. Be sure you mark
(scribe) the end caps and their orientation to the housing, as well as,
have new O-Rings on hand.

Best,

Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe
SM2 #387

For the party looking for a SM MILLENNIUM/SM REDLINE ,I currently have two of each
type listed here in Fort Lauderdale .All are very sharp boats that I have been involved
with since the original sale .

All the best,
Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist
Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas
Phone: 1 (954) 462-5869 Fax: 1 (954) 462-3923

Check the fuel filters first then check the turbocharger,especially if the boat has been
inactive. I have had bad luck rebuilding these turbos for AMEL customers as they usually
fail again quickly. Better to replace them. What color is the exhaust smoke at maximum
revolutions and is it excessive?

All the best,
Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist
Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas
Phone: 1 (954) 462-5869 Fax: 1 (954) 462-3923

Based on more than 25 years of selling more than 300 used Amels in addition to the new
ones in support of Amels North American operations,I can offer the following. Amels had a
blistering problem in the mid 1980's as did a great majority of European boats at that
time that was ,mainly, due to contaminated catylizer (mek) that caused improper curing of
the resin. I have seen little osmotic reaction on Super Maramu resales,mainly because of
the anti-osmosis proprietary treatment AMEL employs. They put this treatment on every boat
on the inside of the gel coat in the mold ,not over the outside of the gel coat which is
more normal but not as protective. The AMEL style treatment allows the anti fouling to be
heavily sanded without inadvertent damage to the anti-osmotic treatment which is
"protected" behind the gel coat .Later model AMEL boats that have bothersome osmosis are
almost always because of sand/media/grit/soda blasting of old anti fouling which ,if not
done with experience and extreme care , produces thousands of pin sized holes through the
gel coat and the anti osmosis barrier too which lets seawater into the laminated
fiberglass .Be careful when blasting the vessels bottom with anything,including high
pressure bottom washing used almost everywhere . How old was the vessel in question and
how severe were the blisters?Were they uniform on the entire bottom or more random /
localized ? Was there any indication of post construction fiberglass damage repairs?
All the best,
Joel F. Potter

Joel F. Potter - Cruising Yacht Specialist
Amel's Sole Associate for the Americas
Phone: 1 (954) 462-5869 Fax: 1 (954) 462-3923

We're only getting 2400RPM with wide open throttle. The prop is clean
as is the underbody. This means we are only capable of developing
around +/- 60% of rated power say around 50-ish HP.

Is is everyone accepting this or are you getting your props re-pitched
prop?

Would I be better off changing to a regular adjustable pitch
feathering prop?

Thanks

I was under the impression that Amel construction had a pretty good
reputation and that it would have been unlikely to see blistering on a
10 year old hull.

Is it abnormal to experience osmotic blisters on 10 year old hull?

Is a total gel coat plane followed by a layer or two of cloth and
vinylester the best cure?

Supermaramu redline sought or very fresh 2000 with comfort pack in
Europe or USA.

Greetings,

BeBe, a Super Maramu 2000 #387, has been experiencing what appears to
be some electrolysis on the rudder mounted ground plates. We have an
Amel installed Furuno 1503 SSB with whip antenna.

It is possible the electrolysis happened in a "hot" marina recently,
however, I noticed the following on page 17 of my user's guide, "When
setting up a SSB, disconnect ground plates of the anodes (behind the
chart table)."

I posted a photo of what I believe the owner's guide is referring to in
a new album titled "Grounding SSB Radio." It is a photo of a wiring
block located behind the Velcro-attached panel just above the chart
table. The photo shows a wiring junction block for 24 volts and has 3
yellow/green ground wires attached to the center of the block. Two of
these yellow/green ground wires are twisted together.

Can anyone tell me if this is what is referred to in the user's guide
and if these ground wires should be disconnected? Does anyone know
where these ground wires trace/lead to?

I have emailed a copy of the photo to Olivier BEAUTE including the above
questions as well. When a receive a response from him, I will advise
this group.

Regards,

Bill Rouse
s/v BeBe
SM2 #387