I believe the only place that you may be able to buy this part is from
Amel. Email sav@amel.fr and inquire there.

Diane,

we have a Ariston MW212K In our SM2 #387. Yesterday it quit
working...sort of. The light and fan would come on, but it did not
heat with the microwave. I decided, what the hell, let's see if we
can fix it. I removed the cover with some effort as the manufacturer
has "not to tamper" screws securing the cover. Well, small vice grip
pliers allowed me to "tamper" with them and unscrew them.

I looked for a fuse, found one and it checked OK. So I checked the
door and safety micro switches and they checked OK. Then I noticed
that most of the Female Quick Connects were slightly loose, so I
crimped them slightly to tighten their connection. Guess what, it
worked! I suspect the marine environment caused a problem at the
weakest point in the wiring of the Microwave - the Quick Connects.

Best,

Bill Rouse with Judy Rouse
Aboard s/v BeBe anchored Grenada WI



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "dianexnielsen"
<dianexnielsen@...> wrote:

I need to replace the microwave. Any suggestions on what microwave is
the best fit for the space allowed above the stove. What company,
brand or web-site have you ordered from? What brand does Amel have on
the new 54's? Would it fit the older boats? Thank you for any
suggestions.

Diane
Shenanigans SM123

Does anyone know where I could buy a new fuel dipstick for SM 2000 w/
600 l fuel tank?

Thanks in advance,

Brad in Seattle

I need to replace the microwave. Any suggestions on what microwave is
the best fit for the space allowed above the stove. What company,
brand or web-site have you ordered from? What brand does Amel have on
the new 54's? Would it fit the older boats? Thank you for any
suggestions.

Diane
Shenanigans SM123

The dishwasher leaves water in the bottom of the unit at the end of
the wash cycle. According to the manual (which is in French but I
used internet translation), there is a problem with a pump that should
empty it. Anyone else have this problem? Solutions?
Thanks

Is the problem occasional or regular?



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

Amel Super Mistral Sport for sale. Euros 5500 ono
Kept in very good condition in Barcares South of France.
Pontoon available.
Sale is due to ill helth and moving back to the UK.

Contact me, Roger at roger.chipsoft@wanadoo.fr or
Telephone 0033 4 68 41 36 67 or 0033 6 26 49 17 15.

We have an SM 2000 launched July 20001 and in
"like new" condition. She is currently in Barcelona, has most AMEL
installed options and many additional features. She is fully
equipped for serious world cruising. If you are interested give me
your email and we'll send details.
Charlie
S/V MALAIKA II



************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.

Hello-I am looking for a late model SM 2000.Ideally in Europe but must
be in very good condition and not to high an engine use.
Do not have to have the boat immediately but can purchase straight
away.
please forward details ,condition and price.

We agree we've done and continue to do it. You may
also want to get a 120 volt 30 amp plug as well. This
of course means you'll need a new battery charger to
handle both 220 and 120. We just installed a unit
from Dolphin that does the trick quite well.

We also added a True Sine 24 volt to 110 volt inverter
to do away with Amel 220 to 12 volts..

Good luck
Richard SM 209
--- kimberlite@optonline.net wrote:

You absolutely do not need to replace the cord with
a 4 wire cord. the stock cord is more than
sufficient as the boat does not use the white
neutral wire as normally found on USA boats. Just
get a 50 amp plug. hook the brown to the black in
the plug. hook the green to the green in the plug ,
and the blue to the red in the plug and you are
ready to plug into any 50 amp outlet in the USA or
northern Caribbean.
fair winds
eric sm 376 kimberlite

----- Original Message -----
From: drdavegoodman
Date: Friday, May 4, 2007 3:53 pm
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] 220v shore power cord
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

I am in the process of purchasing a 1998 SM in the

US. I have been

told by a surveyor and electrician that the stock

220v shore power

cord does not meet US electrical code standards,

and that the cord

needs to be replaced by a 4 wire, minimum 10 guage

cord. The

replacement cord is much heavier and thicker, and

requires the groove

in the aft lazarette cover to be enlarged. Has

anyone had experience

with replacing this cord? Thanks.

[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]

____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a PS3 game guru.
Get your game face on with the latest PS3 news and previews at Yahoo! Games.
http://videogames.yahoo.com/platform?platform=120121

Just a little additional info the shore power cord issue: If you plug
in to 220V (as suggested by Eric on Kimberlite), by using a 50 amp
shore power plug wired to your 220V black cord, you're fine. But if
you are planning to plug in to 110V and use an on-board transformer to
boost the voltage up to 220V, then you need a heavier shore power
cord. The reason is that electricity at 110V needs twice the amps to
provide the same power as at 220V. Thus, you need a bigger cable.
The surveyors are only familiar with 110V shore power systems, and
assume that you will be splitting the 50 amp 220V shore power into two
110V circuits. Stay with 220V and the 50 amp plug (wired as per Eric),
and you'll be fine.
Roy on Excalibur

You absolutely do not need to replace the cord with a 4 wire cord. the stock cord is more than sufficient as the boat does not use the white neutral wire as normally found on USA boats. Just get a 50 amp plug. hook the brown to the black in the plug. hook the green to the green in the plug , and the blue to the red in the plug and you are ready to plug into any 50 amp outlet in the USA or northern Caribbean.
fair winds
eric sm 376 kimberlite

I am in the process of purchasing a 1998 SM in the US. I have been
told by a surveyor and electrician that the stock 220v shore power
cord does not meet US electrical code standards, and that the cord
needs to be replaced by a 4 wire, minimum 10 guage cord. The
replacement cord is much heavier and thicker, and requires the groove
in the aft lazarette cover to be enlarged. Has anyone had experience
with replacing this cord? Thanks.

I need to replace the thru hull handle (die cast) on the valve going from
the head to the sea. I have a Sharki made in 1984. Any suggestions as to
where I might get a new handle? Thanks.



Roy



Duddy Law Offices, PLLC

175 Route 101

Bedford, NH 03110



603-472-8500

603-472-7333 fax




No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.467 / Virus Database: 269.6.2/787 - Release Date: 5/3/2007 2:11
PM

1998 Supermaramu on sale, perfect conditions. New Sails from North Sails. A lot of
accessories and optionals. The boat is located in Rome, Italy. If interested please email me at
nuba2004@yahoo.it.
Angelo.

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote:
If you are having to pull on the cable to

achieve Thruster locking-pin alignment you might try adjusting the

thruster as described

below.

We visited the Amel service office in Guadeloupe recently and had the
bow thruster checked for alignment. We thought it should be adjusted
so that it would not require that we pull on the cable in order to
insert the locking-pin. They refused to adjust it and said that we
should have to pull on the cable before inserting the locking-pin;
perfectly normal procedure to ensure that the tension on the seals
will prevent water intrusion when sailing into pounding seas. So we
left it that way. Having to pull on the cable isn't a big deal to us,
but thanks for the advice anyway.

Judy
S/V BeBe
SM2 #387

Mike Wrote:

Does a bow thruster rebuild kit from Amel contain the 3 foam donut seals,
the prop shaft seal, and perhaps the "shaft lip seal" ? Cost?

I last ordered a set of bow thruster seals. "Jeu de joint de propulseur d'etrave"
Sept 2005 from Amel. At that time the cost was 33.50 Euros, plus freight.
The kit included three foam seals, 1 lip seal for the shaft of the thruster
foot, (It is a typical lip seal with a metal outer band and pliable rubber
grooved sealing surface), and a lip seal for the prop shaft.

Amel's kit and price may have changed so if you place
an order with them I suggest you spell out IN DETAIL what you want.
Olivier Beaute, Amel's after sales service rep, is excellent but he is so
busy that he is at times hard to get ahold of. However, his assistant
Maude, also speaks excellent English and is very knowledgable.

Good Luck,

Gary

Thanks Gary and Bill&Judy for your excellent responses. Aletes remained
watertight when refloated, confirming the thruster trunk elevation is indeed
above waterline. It would seem we were indeed short the 3rd donut ring seal
that goes on the interior of the boat.

Gary, is the "shaft lip seal" you indicated on the top side of bow thruster
trunk soft and intended to seal against the bow thruster shaft, and is it a
replaceable part?

I take it the propeller shaft seal can be dug out of the gear housing and be
replaced.

I suppose the reason we used a full quart of gear oil was that we filled the
entire shaft, unnecessarily. The .3 liter undoubtedly fills the gear box.
With that much oil in the shaft, water leaking through the prop shaft seal
will lift the oil out of the tube that much sooner.

Does a bow thruster rebuild kit from Amel contain the 3 foam donut seals,
the prop shaft seal, and perhaps the "shaft lip seal" ? Cost?

Thanks again for clarifying this issue.
Mike
Aletes SM2000#240
<http://geo.yahoo.com/serv?s=97359714/grpId=5036225/grpspId=1705065792/msgId
=2879/stime=1178033686/nc1=4438963/nc2=4430620/nc3=3848604>

Hi,

I believe the thruster takes .3 liters of 90 weight gear oil.

Fair winds

Eric sm 376 kimberlite



_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Judy
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 7:44 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: SM2000 Bow thruster service



Mike,

Let me try to help you with your questions. I did not design the bow
thruster, nor am I an engineer. I certainly cannot suggest intended
strategies, but I have some suggestions for you. I have used and
serviced it successfully and may be of some help.

1) The penetration through the hull is above the water line when at rest
in calm water.

2 a) The 2 closed cell foam rings on the shaft outside the hull are
compressed against the hull opening when the bow thruster is fully up
and the safety pin is in place.It is important to pull on the wire
bringing the thruster high enough to insert the pin each time you go
sailing (you will also have to turn OFF the power switch which is in the
path of inserting the pin).

2b) On the Bow Thruster shaft there are 2 closed cell foam rings outside
the hull which are compressed when the thruster is in full up and the
pin is inserted.my experience is if you do not insert the pin, you
will get a small amount of water in the forward bilge when sailing.
There is one closed cell foam ring inside the hull compressed when the
thruster motor is in the full down position.

2c) There is an oil seal just behind the propeller and this oil seal
probably needs replacing on your boat.

3a). The 2 foam rings outside the hull should be adhered to the foot of
the shaft and the gear box and ride up and down with the shaft.

3b) If the surface of the bow thruster well is oily it most likely is
because the seal behind the propeller needs replacing. A bad seal will
cause water to penetrate and water penetrating the thruster will cause
the oil to rise and possibly overflow when running.

3c) You should have fare access to this area to clean when the thruster
is removed.

4) I am not sure about the 2 grooves in the sleeved penetration in the
hull.

5) There should be one closed cell foam ring inside the hull compressed
when the thruster motor is in the full down position.

6) There is an oil seal behind the propeller. It keeps sea water out
and also keeps oil inside the thruster. This oil seal is pressed into
the gear housing, and should be replaced when you service the unit. The
flat side of the seal faces the sea water and propeller. You may want
to use a little RTV (room temperature vulcanizing) silicone sealant to
help ensure that it stays in place and seals completely. I suggest that
when draining the thruster that you capture the oil in a transparent
container to see if there is any water in it. If there is, change the
seal behind the propeller.

7) My guess is that the water you had in your forward bilges was caused
by not pulling the wire and inserting the pin while under sail.

8) I assume that you filled the thruster to the same level that it had
when you removed it. If so, it was overfilled as it should definitely
not take that much oil.
Best,

Bill & Judy Rouse
s/v BeBe anchored at Bequia, The Genadines
SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com, "Mike Ondra" <mondra@...> wrote:

We just completed servicing Aletes' bow thruster on the hard,
postings from this BB in our greasy hands. Yet upon completion we
have concerns about the water tight integrity of the bow thruster.

1. Fundamentally, is the penetration through the hull above or below
the water line when at rest in calm water? It appeared to us that it
was slightly below the water line, which conflicts with the concept
of dropping out the propeller/shaft assembly while in the water and
raises images of the boat with water where it should not be.

2. What is the seal strategy of the assembly? We found only the 2
closed cell foam rings on the shaft outside the hull that are
compressed against the hull opening when the bow thruster is fully
up. Other postings refer to up to 5 seals: 1 just behind the
propeller, the 2 we have around the shaft just outside the hull, 1 at
the hull opening, and 1 foam ring above the opening that would be
compressed when the truster motor is in the full down position.

3. The 2 foam rings outside the hull were adhered to the foot of the
shaft and the gear box and rode up and down with the shaft. It would
seem that if they were adhered to the bottom of the opening in the
hull they would seal to the shaft as well as be compressed when the
assembly was full up. However the friction of the shaft moving up and
down could wear the seal and/or pull the rings away from the
adhesive. Also that surface up in the bow thruster well is oily
(difficult to adhere to) and not very accessible for cleaning up
adhesive in preparation for a new seal.

4. The sleeved penetration in the hull, about 2" tall, had 2 grooves
in it. Is this or are there other provisions for a seal at this
location that would not move with the assembly and seal to the shaft?

5. We did not find any seals on the top side of the hull. Should
there be a foam ring on top to seal when the motor is down?

6. Is there a seal required behind the propeller and what does it
look like and do? The propeller shaft has a seal pressed into the
gear housing, and should that be replacable?

7. Again, what is the total seal strategy? Although we have had only
a very minor amount of water in our forward bilges, what we found
seemed to be profoundly not leak proof.

8. Our shaft assembly took a full quart of 90 wt oil instead of
the .3 liter described in the manual. Are there different models that
require different amounts of oil and may have different seal
strategies?

As this is a bi-annual service usually done out of the water, it
would be nice to be very clear about what is required to maintain the
water tight integrity of the boat!

Mike Ondra
Aletes SM200#240

Hi Everyone:

Thanks Judy for your excellent description. If you are having to pull on the cable to
achieve Thruster locking-pin alignment you might try adjusting the thruster as described
below.

Additionally, I have uploaded some items that may contribute to the SM bow thruster
service discussion:

To the Photo's Area I made and new album entitled "BOW THRUSTER SERVICE" that has
some labeled photos of the bow thruster components. Others may upload additional
pertinent photos to that album. There are some excellent additional photos in the album
labeled "SM227" that show the Amel Special Tool etc.

In the FIles Area I uploaded a document that I wrote up when I last did my thruster service
(as described to me by Ray Eaton, Amel's rep in Ft. Lauderdale) that describes the service
procedures, tools needed, etc.

I hope these will be of aid to Amel ownners who visit this site.

Regards to all,

Gary Silver