We have a 2003 model Super Maramu 2000, built November 2002. We
strongly suspect that the clothes dryer is not vented correctly. The
washing function works great, but the dryer leaves the
clothes "steamed" rather than dry. They get too hot to touch, but
still quite moist. Our only conclusion is that the dryer is not
vented correctly.

The manual onboard is simply a users manual, with no description of
the installation process. Can anyone tell us how this dryer is
supposed to be vented?

Thanks in advance,

Judy & Bill Rouse
S/V Security,
SM2, #387

Hi,
Jimmy Cornell's "World Cruising Routes" would be high on my list. Obviously, you will need cruising guides and charts for every area you will visit. They will be easier to purchase in Europe, the US, Panama, New Zealand, Australia and South Africa. In other places they may be hard or impossible to find. Not so obviously, you will enjoy land tourist guides such as Lonely Planet for places you will visit and sometimes these are impossible to find in the places themselves.

We started using C-Map in Australia and found them to be very useful everywhere and very accurate in places where commercial shipping goes (not so accurate in out of the way places but useful nevertheless). We like it on our computer rather than in a chart plotter for faster refresh rates and ease of manipulation.

You must have backup charts for everyplace. We also find them to be more useful for planning purposes. We store them flat under unused beds. If you sleep on them for a while, they will start to mold.

Steve Leeds
Sharki #121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service
Fort Lauderdale, Florida USA
circumnavigators@gmail.com
http://bellsouthpwp2.net/l/e/leedss/



---------------------------------
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Hi All,
Within the group are many who have toured the world.
I am preparing myself for this adventure, but I would appreciate if an
expert could answer me following questions:
1. What books (almanac or others) do I have to buy before starting? (
out of Med )
2. Are books for the following steps available on the way?
3. What charts for my Plotter ( C-Map ) shell I buy ?
4. Are charts available on the way ?
5. How to deal with paper charts?

For advises and suggestions, I will be thankful.
In order to not to fill the forum, you may contact me through my
homepage www.sam-yacht.ch
Rudy of SAMANTHA

Hi,
We have decided to join the Amel Family and buy a Super Maramu 2000
year 2002-2004.
Does anyone have one for sale or will be putting theirs up for sale in
the near future at a realistic price? We are based in Malta, please
contact me on richard-thwaites@tiscali.co.uk.
Best regards
Richard Thwaites

Vielen Dank Jochen, for your invaluable feedback. Yes, I'm aware that
the M802 is not type approved in the EU, but as I'll be registering my
boat outside the EU, hopefully that will not be a problem. Your
explanation on why the use of Ham frequencies is so useful is
precisely the reason why I intend to go for that too. Besides, from
what I've been able to gather so far, the maritime frequencies are
getting rather crowded, particularly by people using their Pactor
modems for email via SSB.
I have very little shortwave experience, having had to use SSB once
whilst crossing the North Atlantic by plane on a delivery trip. I
shall definitely do a Ham course here in the UK. Besides, it's another
2 years before I take delivery of my Amel 54!
Thanks for the antenna info. I'd forgotten about a separate one for
DSC. Amel have said they can do the whole installation, including a
high quality grounding system, and I'll probably go for that.
Viel spass

Roger

HiRoger,

first of all I think the ICOM IC-M 802 is about the best of units you
can get these days, however, it might be illegal for a non-ham to fit
it - at least in germany it is not approved as a marine SSB (probably
because it is too easy to open it for the ham bands, and ICOM have
come out with a GMDSS equivalent of the 802 now that costs more but
cannot be opened to the ham bands).

In order to use the unit legally you will probably have to take a UK
ham license. Ham licenses are globally in a transition phase right now
since the ITU recommends to put away with Morse exams for SW ham
licenses. Some countries (like germany) have done so already in local
law, some others (like the U.S.) have not. I don't know the present
status in the UK. While the ham license (even without morse) is an
awful lot of learning, if you plan to go serious blue water cruising
it is definitely more than just worth the effort taking it. Just
consider all the cruisernets you'll find all over the world and the
invaluable weather information you can receive (and provide) in them.
Sailing ham associations like (www.)Intermar(-ev.de) really help you
stay connected to the world and keep your acquaintances ashore
up-to-date as far as your whereabouts and your well-being are
concerned. BTW, I myself only took my exam in lat 2004 and I am a
complete beginner.

On our Maramu #143 Blue Song we have installed an IC-M 802 and we are
using insulated backstays (one for TX/RX and one for DSC RX - yes
you'll need two antennas if you want to make use of the full DSC
capabilities of the unit).

You will find about as many people who'll tell you the whip is better
as you will find people saying the backstay is better. In the end it
probably all depends on the quality of the installation and IN THE
QUALITY OF THE GROUNDING (see the ICOM manual). We are happy with the
backstay so far, but we've only been cruising in the med so far - will
see what it's like on the long passages (hopefully) coming up for us
this winter and thereafter.

Fair winds

Jochen Hofmann, DM2JH, Maramu #143 Blue Song

Thanks for the reply, Ian and Judy. We did use the 15W40 because
that was all we could locate near the boatyard. We also did replace
the hard interior seal on the bowthruster when we replaced the foam
seals. None of these seals had been replaced prior to our recent
work; and this boat was built November 2002, so we thought the seals
had held up well. Just routine maintenance. We have sailed over
500 miles since replacing these seals, without a drop of water
leaking into the forward bilge.

Judy & Bill Rouse
S/V Security, SM2 #387
currently lying Bequia enroute to Grenada

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins"
<ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote:

Hi Judy, When we bought Pen Azen new we were told 15W40 and it

seems to have

worked happily ever since. Incidentally, as well as the two

external and

one internal soft foam rings to be replaced on the bowthruster you

can also

replace the hard seal which sits inside the boat . Once the

shaft is out

of the boat you have to work at it with your fingers till it

allows itself

to be prized loose but a good hard push down will relocate the new

one.

Fair winds, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Uruguay

Dear all, I'm most probably going to be fitting an Icom M802 SSB,
enabled for the Ham frequencies. SSB is fairly new to me so I wonder
if some of you seasoned adventurers could give me some advice on the
following.
First of all, Amel tells me most owners go for a long whip antenna
mounted near the pushpit. Is this the prefered method or do some go
for an insulated back stay or even the triadic stay? Or perhaps a
combination of both? I have read that some Amel owners have an antenna
relay switch fitted in order to use the whip antenna for TX and the
triadic stay for RX. What would be your advice concerning best
performance for transmitting and receiving?
Secondly, what kind of licence would I require in order to be legal
when using the Ham frequencies? I shall get the Long Range Certificate
in order to be able to use the official Maritime bands but I'm
confused as to what amateur licence allows me to also use the Ham
bands. I'm not sure yet what port of registry I shall be using, but
most probably either Jersey or Gibraltar. Therefore I assume my course
of action will be to sit the UK based exams?
Many thanks.

Roger Frederiks

Erick, merci pour vos conseils. Je contacterai Bauer France quand Amel
commence avec la construction de mon bateau en 2008. However, for the
benefit of all the English speakers here, perhaps better if we adhere
to this forum's lingua franca. I merely wished to point out that I'm
quite happy communicating in French, and, in fact, I use this method
when talking to Amel in La Rochelle.
Safe diving and fair winds.

Roger Frederiks


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "G D" <maramu@...> wrote:

Bonjour Roger
Le contact que j'avais chez Bauer est
Nathalie Pechoux Tel. +33 479 88 71 69
npechoux@...

Pour information le tuyau haute pression de remplissage doit mesurer

environ

1m. Je cale les bouteilles contre le siege du barreur quand je fais un
remplissage.
Attention de bien preciser � la commande le type de robineterie des
bouteilles DIN ou autre.
Cordialement

Erick MEJEAN

Could you pls send me your tel number as I am
interested for this summer. Many thanks

carl bauer
+44 7767 291 048
--- Krassopoulos Dimitris <dkra@otenet.gr> wrote:


---------------------------------

As I have recently sold all my other business
interests in Greece, I wish to
advise all of you that you can Charter ALMA LIBRE
SM-2000 ( 2002 Model) in
Greece. I believe that this a good opportunity to
charter the boat in Greece
for sailing in the Aegean Sea which is a sailing
paradise.

More information at
www.almalibre.gr/chartering/index.htm . All the
details
and inventory of the boat are at the website
www.almalibre.gr I will be
glad to welcome you onboard and please refer this also
to your friends that
wish to charter a well found boat in this part of the
world.

Regards

Dimitris Krassopoulos
dkra@almalibre.gr





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22 Mar 2006

Eric:

On my bow thruster the flat side of the seal faced the sea water and propeller,
while the concave side with the spring faced the recess in the bow thruster.

The bow thruster recess is made of fiberglass so it is necessary to be very
careful when removing the seal not to damage the seat area of the recess. Also,
since the seal didn't fit particularly tighly in its recess I used a little RTV
(room temperature vulcanizing) silicone sealant to help assure that it
stayed in place. This I did at the suggestion of Ray Eaton (Amels service
rep in Ft. Lauderdale).

Regards,

Gary Silver Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:

Vito,

The lip seal on the bow thruster's propeller shaft has 2 sides one flat side
and one concave side with a spring showing.

Which side faces the sea water and propeller?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of asm283
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 8:42 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: BOWTHRUSTER SEAL PROBLEMS



Hello

Seals leaking is a common problem. Changing the seals regularly
helps. I change them every time the boat is out of the water. It is
a very simple procedure. There are 3 seals 1 inside the boat and two
between the shaft and the unit.

The Bow Thruster can be removed and serviced while the boat is in
the water. You need a special tool from Amel or a diver. I have
never done this but I believe if you search this site you can find
the best procedure.

There is a way to adjust the pressure that is put on the seals by
adjusting the motor travel. I have described how to do this in the
previous post about bow thruster not going up all the way. Also if
you put the safety pin in this may help.

When you remove the unit dont forget to change the oil. If there is
water in the oil you will also need to change the seal on the prop.
Again very simple procedure.

Good luck

Vito

Wanderer

asm 283

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "L. CAMERON"
<solarconstruction@> wrote:

FROM LADY DIVINA, SM 317
MY BOWTHRUSTER IS LEAKING ALOT OF SEAWATER ONLY WHEN SAILING

THRU SOME SWELL, BUT NOT AT ANCHOR. A 4-5 HOUR SAIL WILL LEAK 2-3
GALLONS INTO THE BILGE BY THE FORE HEAD PASSAGEWAY.

MY QUESTIONS ARE:
1) WHY IS THIS UNIT WITH VERY LITTLE USE LEAKING THRU THE SEALS

ON A YEAR 2001 BOAT?? DOES AMEL WARANTY THIS IF IT IS SO COMMON??

2) HAS ANYONE CHANGED THE SEALS WHILE AT ANCHOR?? IS THEIR SEA

WATER INTRUSION WHEN THE UNIT IS DROPPED OUT IN CALM WATERS?

3) WILL GREASING THE SHAFT AND MOVING THE UNIT UP & DOWN TO

LUBRICATE THE SEALS, MINIMIZE THE PROBLEM UNTIL I CAN HAULOUT MORE
CONVENIENTLY??

4) DOES ANYONE HAVE A CLEAR SCHEMATIC SHOWING THE SEALS?? HOW

MANY SEALS ARE THERE TO CHANGE??

THANKS FOR ANY HELP!!! LADY DIVINA SM#317



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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I was able to remove the heating element and the zinc without removing the
whole heater from the engine room.

I just dis-connected the electric. I then ran the water till the water in
the tank was cold. I then removed the in and out water lines and electrical
connections and unbolted the heater element. It is a little tricky putting
it back together because the bolts do not want to stay in place in that
position but doable.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of pjppappas
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 11:26 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] HOT WATER HEATER - ZINCS



RE THE NAUTIC 45
For those of you who have not had the pleasure of changeing the
zincs I thought I would post this message. I have just completed
the awful task on my supermarmu #369 "CALLISTO".
You will need:
1. Small phillips srewdriver
2. Staigth edge screwdriver
3. Pen or tape to mark hoses and electrical wires. (mark everything)
4. Small bucket
5. 13 mm box end wrench
6. 13 mm rachet drive
7. Rags
8. Time (4 hrs)
9. Patients

1. Disconnect from shore power, throw hot water breaker off (220v
circuit), turn off water pump (24v circuit)
2. Drain water using the release valve on the hot water outlet (the
bottom hose). It may not drain all of the water.
3. Disconnect cold water inlet and hot water outlet. Stand back
there will be more water.
4. Disconnect from the hot water heater the two hoses coming from
the engine. You will need to catch the fluid in a small bucket or
you will have a mess that you can not get to.
5. Disconnect the two bands securing the heater in place (disconnect
the stern side). You can now raise the empty heater (about 40 pounds)
to a horizontal level. It will wedge in place.
6. Remove the plastic shield form the bottom of the heater.
7. Disconnect all electrical connections.
8. Remove the eight bolts that hold the bottom of the heater in
place.
9. Remove the bottom. It will be a little sticky - pry loose with
screw driver.
10. Inspect the zincs, find that they are still in good shape and
that you have wasted your time. Mine are a year old and still 3/4
left.
11. Put the whole business back together.
12. Clean up the mess.
13. Remember. "there is nothing - absolutely nothing - half so much
worth doing as simply messing about in boats" GRAHAME

Peter Pappas


















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_____

Vito,

The lip seal on the bow thruster’s propeller shaft has 2 sides one flat side
and one concave side with a spring showing.

Which side faces the sea water and propeller?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of asm283
Sent: Monday, May 01, 2006 8:42 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: BOWTHRUSTER SEAL PROBLEMS



Hello

Seals leaking is a common problem. Changing the seals regularly
helps. I change them every time the boat is out of the water. It is
a very simple procedure. There are 3 seals 1 inside the boat and two
between the shaft and the unit.

The Bow Thruster can be removed and serviced while the boat is in
the water. You need a special tool from Amel or a diver. I have
never done this but I believe if you search this site you can find
the best procedure.

There is a way to adjust the pressure that is put on the seals by
adjusting the motor travel. I have described how to do this in the
previous post about bow thruster not going up all the way. Also if
you put the safety pin in this may help.

When you remove the unit dont forget to change the oil. If there is
water in the oil you will also need to change the seal on the prop.
Again very simple procedure.

Good luck

Vito

Wanderer

asm 283

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "L. CAMERON"
<solarconstruction@...> wrote:

FROM LADY DIVINA, SM 317
MY BOWTHRUSTER IS LEAKING ALOT OF SEAWATER ONLY WHEN SAILING

THRU SOME SWELL, BUT NOT AT ANCHOR. A 4-5 HOUR SAIL WILL LEAK 2-3
GALLONS INTO THE BILGE BY THE FORE HEAD PASSAGEWAY.

MY QUESTIONS ARE:
1) WHY IS THIS UNIT WITH VERY LITTLE USE LEAKING THRU THE SEALS

ON A YEAR 2001 BOAT?? DOES AMEL WARANTY THIS IF IT IS SO COMMON??

2) HAS ANYONE CHANGED THE SEALS WHILE AT ANCHOR?? IS THEIR SEA

WATER INTRUSION WHEN THE UNIT IS DROPPED OUT IN CALM WATERS?

3) WILL GREASING THE SHAFT AND MOVING THE UNIT UP & DOWN TO

LUBRICATE THE SEALS, MINIMIZE THE PROBLEM UNTIL I CAN HAULOUT MORE
CONVENIENTLY??

4) DOES ANYONE HAVE A CLEAR SCHEMATIC SHOWING THE SEALS?? HOW

MANY SEALS ARE THERE TO CHANGE??

THANKS FOR ANY HELP!!! LADY DIVINA SM#317



---------------------------------
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just 2¢/min with Yahoo! Messenger with Voice.

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi,

My Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite has electronic sensors on the bow
thrusters lift assembly . They are attached with clamps around the assembly.

What do theses sensors do and how are they adjusted?

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of asm283
Sent: Sunday, April 30, 2006 1:39 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Bowthruster does not rise far enough on
Super Maramu



Hi Mark

I am not sure that your setup is the same as the one on Wanderer
hull # 283. So this is how I adjust my Bow thruster.

If you observe the assembly as it rises and falls you will see that
there is a rod with two metal arrows on it.One at the top and the
other on the bootom. These arrows press on a button and this tells
the motor when to stop running. These arrows can be adjusted quite
easily using and allen wrench. Its quite simple once you do it.

Good luck.

Vito Ciaravino

ASM 283

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "markmpitt" <mark_pitt@...>
wrote:

A couple of days ago I did some work on the bow thruster that

involved

partly removing the motor as well as changing the seals and the

oil in

the bow thruster prop assembly. I have it all back together now

but I

cannot get the whole thing to ascend far enough to put the safety

pin

in place unless someone stands under the boat (it is on the hard)

and

pushes up with some force. Before this maintenance, I could insert
the safety pin judge by pulling lightly on the cable. How can I

adjust

things so that I can get the motor to rise a small amount more so

that

I can insert the safety pin? There were two spongy seals on

between

the prop assembly and the hull, so I replaced them with two new

seals.

Could two seals be the source of the problem?

Mark Pitt
"Sabbatical III" ASM #419

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_____

Bonjour Roger
Le contact que j'avais chez Bauer est
Nathalie Pechoux Tel. +33 479 88 71 69
npechoux@bauer-compresseurs.com

Pour information le tuyau haute pression de remplissage doit mesurer environ 1m. Je cale les bouteilles contre le siege du barreur quand je fais un remplissage.
Attention de bien preciser la commande le type de robineterie des bouteilles DIN ou autre.
Cordialement

Erick MEJEAN



----Original Message Follows----
From: "Roger Frederiks" <rofred@dsl.pipex.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Diving compressors, tenders and davits
Date: Fri, 19 May 2006 06:56:38 -0000

Dear Ian and Erick
Thanks for the feedback on the Bauer compressor. I'm definitely going
to ask Amel to install it then! Yes, they are noisy things so we may
not be terribly popular at some anchorages, but at least we'll be
totally independent from any shore based filling stations. Erick,
thanks for reminding me about Charles' Law. I'd nearly forgotten about
that... ;) However, when on expedition in remote tropical locations we
used to have our tanks submerged in an open barrel with water in order
to keep them cool when being filled. Not sure if this is possible on
an Amel, as the tanks may well have to sit next to the compressor in
the port cockpit locker. Amel have said they can make a custom tank
holder frame once they've been given the tank dimensions.
So, right now, not yet sure if to go for the Junior II or the Oceanus.
Also thanks for the info on contacting Bauer France. Je suis
francophone, donc je me debrouille en franais. :)

As an aside, Ian, I read your comment about RIB's. So far, I've looked
at both AB and Caribe and possibly Avon, but it sure seems as if the
Southern Pacific Sheerwater may well be worth investigating in view of
its much lighter weight. I'm not sure yet if I'm going to go for the
Amel davits. They certainly look very solid but in my view they also
spoil the attractive lines of the 54. So perhaps I shall stay with the
tried and tested method of using a halyard and winch for lifting and
lowering the tender and outboard.
Incidentally, for the Amel 54 they are the Series 7 Simpson Davits and
can be seen on http://www.simpson-davits.co.uk/traditional-davits.php

I have lots more questions but plenty of time for that later.
Cheers, Roger

Dear Ian and Erick
Thanks for the feedback on the Bauer compressor. I'm definitely going
to ask Amel to install it then! Yes, they are noisy things so we may
not be terribly popular at some anchorages, but at least we'll be
totally independent from any shore based filling stations. Erick,
thanks for reminding me about Charles' Law. I'd nearly forgotten about
that... ;) However, when on expedition in remote tropical locations we
used to have our tanks submerged in an open barrel with water in order
to keep them cool when being filled. Not sure if this is possible on
an Amel, as the tanks may well have to sit next to the compressor in
the port cockpit locker. Amel have said they can make a custom tank
holder frame once they've been given the tank dimensions.
So, right now, not yet sure if to go for the Junior II or the Oceanus.
Also thanks for the info on contacting Bauer France. Je suis
francophone, donc je me debrouille en fran�ais. :)

As an aside, Ian, I read your comment about RIB's. So far, I've looked
at both AB and Caribe and possibly Avon, but it sure seems as if the
Southern Pacific Sheerwater may well be worth investigating in view of
its much lighter weight. I'm not sure yet if I'm going to go for the
Amel davits. They certainly look very solid but in my view they also
spoil the attractive lines of the 54. So perhaps I shall stay with the
tried and tested method of using a halyard and winch for lifting and
lowering the tender and outboard.
Incidentally, for the Amel 54 they are the Series 7 Simpson Davits and
can be seen on http://www.simpson-davits.co.uk/traditional-davits.php

I have lots more questions but plenty of time for that later.
Cheers, Roger

Hi Judy, When we bought Pen Azen new we were told 15W40 and it seems to have worked happily ever since. Incidentally, as well as the two external and one internal soft foam rings to be replaced on the bowthruster you can also replace the hard seal which sits inside the boat . Once the shaft is out of the boat you have to work at it with your fingers till it allows itself to be prized loose but a good hard push down will relocate the new one.
Fair winds, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Uruguay

The motor on furler on the main sail is making a lot of noise. Is there anyone out there that has had this problem and what did you do about it.
Thanks James DeSalvo Liebling207

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We are looking into buying a Super Maramu, and I would like to see
the stability curve, or GZ curve, or at least know the angle of
vanishing stability.

The GZ curve describes the resistance to capsize and heel, and from
that curve you can read the ultimate stability, the "angle of
vanishing stability" or the angle to which the boat can heel and
still right itself.

I believe the GZ curve should be part of the CE approval procees, so
it should be publicly available somewhere, but I have not been able
to find it.

So, if anyone has this curve, or the angle, pls let me know.

regards Jens
--
***************

Jens Henriksen

I disconnected the cold water at each faucet and turned the pump on and this
cleared the problem although I did not see anything apparent released.
At any rate, the pressure is back to normal.
Thanks for the support and ideas.
Regards,
Tony Pellegrini
Voyageur #373