Date   

Re: [Amel] Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on - Refrigerator Removal and Replacement

David Mackintosh <dlm48@...>
 

Hi Bill

Not 100% sure if you are trying to pull my leg here - you probably read this
but in case not

http://www.sail-world.com/Cruising/international/IMBs-Piracy-Hotspots-from-2009/66507

Margaret Says Hello :-)

kindest regards

David



On 17 February 2010 07:02, svbebe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:



David,

You are correct, as you are always.

Additionally, if you "lay the refrigerator on its left side facing" as in
step 12, the refrigerant oil will not migrate from the compressor because in
this position the IN & OUT lines are pointed UP.

Hi to Margaret!


Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
David Mackintosh <dlm48@...> wrote:

ooops you should not lay a fridge on its side or back or front and then
put
it back into operation without allowing it to stand vertical for a few
hours
i think 12 hours is recommended for a domestic unit. This is to allow the
refrigerant to drain back down and to ensure there is only gas in the
circuit and not any liquid.

regards

David

On 16 February 2010 02:04, svbebe <yahoogroups@...> wrote:



All,

I apologize for the double posting, but wanted to correct some errors
(step 9 is corrected and NOTE added).

I decided to remove the Frigoboat refrigerator, clean it and replace
the
brain or electronic unit with a new Danfoss #101N0210. I have carried
this electronic unit in my spares because it is the same unit on all
three Frigoboat refrigerators/freezers.

I found a lot of dust and dirt (seven years worth). If you have five or
more years on your refrigerator, you should clean it. I also found a
broken fan wire that was intermittently making contact. I do not know
if my problem was need of cleaning, replacing the brain, or repairing
the almost broken fan wire, or all of the above; but the refrigerator
now works like new.

Here are the steps I followed:
1. Remove the wood trim beneath the refrigerator by unscrewing the 2
wood screws

2. Remove the floor in front of the refrigerator by removing the
"thumb-bolt" which you can reach through the floor hatch nearest
the companionway

3. Remove the "thumb-bolt" inside the left door under the
sink (door next to refrigerator)

4. Open the refrigerator door and remove the bolt on the left side of
the door wich is used by the door locking mechanism

5. The refrigerator can now be pulled out, but take care not to
damage the wood on the left side of the refrigerator…we used a
plastic cutting-sheet between the wood and the refrigerator…it is a
tight fit…use something or you will regret it.

6. Disconnect the + & - wires from the control box on the front of
the refrigerator and check to make sure they will run free when the
refrigerator is lifted out. On #387 these were White = + or Hot and
Blue = - or Neg.

7. Slide the refrigerator forward all of the way

8. From inside the left door under the sink uncouple the refrigerator
drain hose and make sure it will run free when the refrigerator is
lifted out.

9. Remove the door locking mechanism from the left side facing of the
refrigerator and remove the door by removing the upper and lower door
hinges

10. Lift the refrigerator straight up and over the washer

11. I used an old plastic tablecloth to protect the saloon table and
worked inside with the A/C running…I have learned how to do tough
jobs in the tropics.

12. Lay the refrigerator on its left side facing.

13. Find the two "thumb-bolts" securing the wood base to the
refrigerator…remove them and loosen the Velcro holding the
refrigerant lines to the wood base.

14. Carefully loosen the free side of the proximately 6"x9"
foam piece (one side is glued the other free). There are 4 more small
pieces of foam that can be removed for cleaning

15. Now most of the condensing coil area is open to vacuum

16. Unscrew the two machine screws holding the condensing fan and
remove the fan noting the fan's orientation and thoroughly clean the
fan…replace the fan in the same orientation as you previously noted.

17. I changed the Electronic Unit. Frigoboat uses the same Danfoss
101N0210 unit on all of the Frigoboat refrigeration boxes on #387. I
had a spare so I replaced it when I cleaned the refrigerator. Be
careful. There are 8 pins for push-on connectors on the side of the
Electronic Unit and you will only use 7. The one you will not use is
the second +.

18. Reverse the procedure to reinstall.

NOTE: there is some side-to-side adjustment necessary when
replacing the thumb-bolts that secure the refrigerator to the wood
base.
This side-to-side adjustment is necessary to get a good fit when
reinstalling the refrigerator.

We found it easier to make this adjustment after the refrigerator was
inserted about half-way into its place under the counter. So leave
those
thumb-bolts loose until that point. Also we found that sliding the
refrigerator all the way to "port" on the wood base worked perfectly.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on - Refrigerator Removal and Replacement

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

David,

You are correct, as you are always.

Additionally, if you "lay the refrigerator on its left side facing" as in step 12, the refrigerant oil will not migrate from the compressor because in this position the IN & OUT lines are pointed UP.

Hi to Margaret!

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, David Mackintosh <dlm48@...> wrote:

ooops you should not lay a fridge on its side or back or front and then put
it back into operation without allowing it to stand vertical for a few hours
i think 12 hours is recommended for a domestic unit. This is to allow the
refrigerant to drain back down and to ensure there is only gas in the
circuit and not any liquid.

regards

David

On 16 February 2010 02:04, svbebe <yahoogroups@...> wrote:



All,

I apologize for the double posting, but wanted to correct some errors
(step 9 is corrected and NOTE added).

I decided to remove the Frigoboat refrigerator, clean it and replace the
brain or electronic unit with a new Danfoss #101N0210. I have carried
this electronic unit in my spares because it is the same unit on all
three Frigoboat refrigerators/freezers.

I found a lot of dust and dirt (seven years worth). If you have five or
more years on your refrigerator, you should clean it. I also found a
broken fan wire that was intermittently making contact. I do not know
if my problem was need of cleaning, replacing the brain, or repairing
the almost broken fan wire, or all of the above; but the refrigerator
now works like new.

Here are the steps I followed:
1. Remove the wood trim beneath the refrigerator by unscrewing the 2
wood screws

2. Remove the floor in front of the refrigerator by removing the
"thumb-bolt" which you can reach through the floor hatch nearest
the companionway

3. Remove the "thumb-bolt" inside the left door under the
sink (door next to refrigerator)

4. Open the refrigerator door and remove the bolt on the left side of
the door wich is used by the door locking mechanism

5. The refrigerator can now be pulled out, but take care not to
damage the wood on the left side of the refrigerator…we used a
plastic cutting-sheet between the wood and the refrigerator…it is a
tight fit…use something or you will regret it.

6. Disconnect the + & - wires from the control box on the front of
the refrigerator and check to make sure they will run free when the
refrigerator is lifted out. On #387 these were White = + or Hot and
Blue = - or Neg.

7. Slide the refrigerator forward all of the way

8. From inside the left door under the sink uncouple the refrigerator
drain hose and make sure it will run free when the refrigerator is
lifted out.

9. Remove the door locking mechanism from the left side facing of the
refrigerator and remove the door by removing the upper and lower door
hinges

10. Lift the refrigerator straight up and over the washer

11. I used an old plastic tablecloth to protect the saloon table and
worked inside with the A/C running…I have learned how to do tough
jobs in the tropics.

12. Lay the refrigerator on its left side facing.

13. Find the two "thumb-bolts" securing the wood base to the
refrigerator…remove them and loosen the Velcro holding the
refrigerant lines to the wood base.

14. Carefully loosen the free side of the proximately 6"x9"
foam piece (one side is glued the other free). There are 4 more small
pieces of foam that can be removed for cleaning

15. Now most of the condensing coil area is open to vacuum

16. Unscrew the two machine screws holding the condensing fan and
remove the fan noting the fan's orientation and thoroughly clean the
fan…replace the fan in the same orientation as you previously noted.

17. I changed the Electronic Unit. Frigoboat uses the same Danfoss
101N0210 unit on all of the Frigoboat refrigeration boxes on #387. I
had a spare so I replaced it when I cleaned the refrigerator. Be
careful. There are 8 pins for push-on connectors on the side of the
Electronic Unit and you will only use 7. The one you will not use is
the second +.

18. Reverse the procedure to reinstall.

NOTE: there is some side-to-side adjustment necessary when
replacing the thumb-bolts that secure the refrigerator to the wood base.
This side-to-side adjustment is necessary to get a good fit when
reinstalling the refrigerator.

We found it easier to make this adjustment after the refrigerator was
inserted about half-way into its place under the counter. So leave those
thumb-bolts loose until that point. Also we found that sliding the
refrigerator all the way to "port" on the wood base worked perfectly.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on - Refrigerator Removal and Replacement

David Mackintosh <dlm48@...>
 

ooops you should not lay a fridge on its side or back or front and then put
it back into operation without allowing it to stand vertical for a few hours
i think 12 hours is recommended for a domestic unit. This is to allow the
refrigerant to drain back down and to ensure there is only gas in the
circuit and not any liquid.

regards

David

On 16 February 2010 02:04, svbebe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:



All,

I apologize for the double posting, but wanted to correct some errors
(step 9 is corrected and NOTE added).

I decided to remove the Frigoboat refrigerator, clean it and replace the
brain or electronic unit with a new Danfoss #101N0210. I have carried
this electronic unit in my spares because it is the same unit on all
three Frigoboat refrigerators/freezers.

I found a lot of dust and dirt (seven years worth). If you have five or
more years on your refrigerator, you should clean it. I also found a
broken fan wire that was intermittently making contact. I do not know
if my problem was need of cleaning, replacing the brain, or repairing
the almost broken fan wire, or all of the above; but the refrigerator
now works like new.

Here are the steps I followed:
1. Remove the wood trim beneath the refrigerator by unscrewing the 2
wood screws

2. Remove the floor in front of the refrigerator by removing the
"thumb-bolt" which you can reach through the floor hatch nearest
the companionway

3. Remove the "thumb-bolt" inside the left door under the
sink (door next to refrigerator)

4. Open the refrigerator door and remove the bolt on the left side of
the door wich is used by the door locking mechanism

5. The refrigerator can now be pulled out, but take care not to
damage the wood on the left side of the refrigerator…we used a
plastic cutting-sheet between the wood and the refrigerator…it is a
tight fit…use something or you will regret it.

6. Disconnect the + & - wires from the control box on the front of
the refrigerator and check to make sure they will run free when the
refrigerator is lifted out. On #387 these were White = + or Hot and
Blue = - or Neg.

7. Slide the refrigerator forward all of the way

8. From inside the left door under the sink uncouple the refrigerator
drain hose and make sure it will run free when the refrigerator is
lifted out.

9. Remove the door locking mechanism from the left side facing of the
refrigerator and remove the door by removing the upper and lower door
hinges

10. Lift the refrigerator straight up and over the washer

11. I used an old plastic tablecloth to protect the saloon table and
worked inside with the A/C running…I have learned how to do tough
jobs in the tropics.

12. Lay the refrigerator on its left side facing.

13. Find the two "thumb-bolts" securing the wood base to the
refrigerator…remove them and loosen the Velcro holding the
refrigerant lines to the wood base.

14. Carefully loosen the free side of the proximately 6"x9"
foam piece (one side is glued the other free). There are 4 more small
pieces of foam that can be removed for cleaning

15. Now most of the condensing coil area is open to vacuum

16. Unscrew the two machine screws holding the condensing fan and
remove the fan noting the fan's orientation and thoroughly clean the
fan…replace the fan in the same orientation as you previously noted.

17. I changed the Electronic Unit. Frigoboat uses the same Danfoss
101N0210 unit on all of the Frigoboat refrigeration boxes on #387. I
had a spare so I replaced it when I cleaned the refrigerator. Be
careful. There are 8 pins for push-on connectors on the side of the
Electronic Unit and you will only use 7. The one you will not use is
the second +.

18. Reverse the procedure to reinstall.

NOTE: there is some side-to-side adjustment necessary when
replacing the thumb-bolts that secure the refrigerator to the wood base.
This side-to-side adjustment is necessary to get a good fit when
reinstalling the refrigerator.

We found it easier to make this adjustment after the refrigerator was
inserted about half-way into its place under the counter. So leave those
thumb-bolts loose until that point. Also we found that sliding the
refrigerator all the way to "port" on the wood base worked perfectly.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on - Refrigerator Removal and Replacement

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

All,

I apologize for the double posting, but wanted to correct some errors
(step 9 is corrected and NOTE added).

I decided to remove the Frigoboat refrigerator, clean it and replace the
brain or electronic unit with a new Danfoss #101N0210. I have carried
this electronic unit in my spares because it is the same unit on all
three Frigoboat refrigerators/freezers.

I found a lot of dust and dirt (seven years worth). If you have five or
more years on your refrigerator, you should clean it. I also found a
broken fan wire that was intermittently making contact. I do not know
if my problem was need of cleaning, replacing the brain, or repairing
the almost broken fan wire, or all of the above; but the refrigerator
now works like new.

Here are the steps I followed:
1. Remove the wood trim beneath the refrigerator by unscrewing the 2
wood screws

2. Remove the floor in front of the refrigerator by removing the
"thumb-bolt" which you can reach through the floor hatch nearest
the companionway

3. Remove the "thumb-bolt" inside the left door under the
sink (door next to refrigerator)

4. Open the refrigerator door and remove the bolt on the left side of
the door wich is used by the door locking mechanism

5. The refrigerator can now be pulled out, but take care not to
damage the wood on the left side of the refrigerator…we used a
plastic cutting-sheet between the wood and the refrigerator…it is a
tight fit…use something or you will regret it.

6. Disconnect the + & - wires from the control box on the front of
the refrigerator and check to make sure they will run free when the
refrigerator is lifted out. On #387 these were White = + or Hot and
Blue = - or Neg.

7. Slide the refrigerator forward all of the way

8. From inside the left door under the sink uncouple the refrigerator
drain hose and make sure it will run free when the refrigerator is
lifted out.

9. Remove the door locking mechanism from the left side facing of the
refrigerator and remove the door by removing the upper and lower door hinges

10. Lift the refrigerator straight up and over the washer

11. I used an old plastic tablecloth to protect the saloon table and
worked inside with the A/C running…I have learned how to do tough
jobs in the tropics.

12. Lay the refrigerator on its left side facing.

13. Find the two "thumb-bolts" securing the wood base to the
refrigerator…remove them and loosen the Velcro holding the
refrigerant lines to the wood base.

14. Carefully loosen the free side of the proximately 6"x9"
foam piece (one side is glued the other free). There are 4 more small
pieces of foam that can be removed for cleaning

15. Now most of the condensing coil area is open to vacuum

16. Unscrew the two machine screws holding the condensing fan and
remove the fan noting the fan's orientation and thoroughly clean the
fan…replace the fan in the same orientation as you previously noted.

17. I changed the Electronic Unit. Frigoboat uses the same Danfoss
101N0210 unit on all of the Frigoboat refrigeration boxes on #387. I
had a spare so I replaced it when I cleaned the refrigerator. Be
careful. There are 8 pins for push-on connectors on the side of the
Electronic Unit and you will only use 7. The one you will not use is
the second +.

18. Reverse the procedure to reinstall.

NOTE: there is some side-to-side adjustment necessary when
replacing the thumb-bolts that secure the refrigerator to the wood base. This side-to-side adjustment is necessary to get a good fit when reinstalling the refrigerator.

We found it easier to make this adjustment after the refrigerator was inserted about half-way into its place under the counter. So leave those thumb-bolts loose until that point. Also we found that sliding the refrigerator all the way to "port" on the wood base worked perfectly.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia


Re: [Amel] Super Maramu Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Bill, It sounds like you have a leak in your freon line. Any good refrigeration mechanic can fix it. Get him to come aboard and check it out. If that is the case you will have to take it out and he will have to carry it to his shop to repair it. See past e-mails about getting it out. Basically you take the door off and you will find a screw knob in the sink cabinet and one under the floor, then just slide it out. Its the same as a household refrigerator so its not necessary to find a marine guy. I just had mine fixed, I had 2 leaks in the system. John "Moon Dog" SM248



To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
From: yahoogroups@svbebe.com
Date: Fri, 12 Feb 2010 03:39:16 +0000
Subject: [Amel] Super Maramu Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on





Our Frigoboat refrigerator seems to be cooling and freezing fine, but when I hear the fan cycle off, it almost immediately turns back on again.

Has anyone experienced this?

Best,

Bill
BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia





_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service.
http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Super Maramu Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Trudy,

Thanks for the reply. No it is not iced up...we defrosted it about a week ago. And, yes it is very hot here. We are running the A/C 24 hours/day.

Best,

Bill
s/v Bebe, SM2, #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Trudy Rahmig <trahmig@...> wrote:

DEAR BILL,

ARE YOU IN A VERY HOT CLIMATE ? IS YOUR REFRIGERATOR ICED UP ? OR IS IT PERHAPS OVER LOADED ?

FAIR WINDS,
TRUDY


Re: [Amel] Super Maramu Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on

Trudy Rahmig <trahmig@...>
 

DEAR BILL,

ARE YOU IN A VERY HOT CLIMATE ? IS YOUR REFRIGERATOR ICED UP ? OR IS IT PERHAPS OVER LOADED ?

FAIR WINDS,
TRUDY
LEONORE OF SARK MODEL 72

--- On Thu, 2/11/10, svbebe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:

From: svbebe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>
Subject: [Amel] Super Maramu Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, February 11, 2010, 8:39 PM







 









Our Frigoboat refrigerator seems to be cooling and freezing fine, but when I hear the fan cycle off, it almost immediately turns back on again.



Has anyone experienced this?



Best,



Bill

BeBe, SM2, #387

Currently Malaysia

























[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Super Maramu Frigoboat Refrigerator cycles off and on

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Our Frigoboat refrigerator seems to be cooling and freezing fine, but when I hear the fan cycle off, it almost immediately turns back on again.

Has anyone experienced this?

Best,

Bill
BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia


Re: Rack & Pinion

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Eric and All,

Although this may not solve your problem, I thought I would share this...just in case it does.

In 2005 a surveyor noted that the steering cables needed to be tightened on BeBe, SM2, #387. We checked the cables and found nothing wrong, but did notice some slack between the wheel and the rudder...BUT, did not immediately find the problem. While inspecting the quadrant and top of the rudder post over a year later I discovered the problem. The clamp that secures the quadrant to the top of the rudder post was loose...tightened the two nuts and everything was fine.

There is a photo of this area at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners/photos/album/988844502/pic/896917258/view?picmode=&mode=tn&order=ordinal&start=1&count=20&dir=asc

I hope this helps.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, SM2, #387
Currently Malaysia

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "tom" <onboardaphrodite@...> wrote:

Hi to all from Mary Ellen & Tom on the 1983 Amel 46 "Aphrodite" out of Santa Cruz,California. Since the rack & pinion subject has come up, we have some questions. We have a "clunk, clunk" sound in the R&P area of the steering system. When we are anchored & there is a swell running, the rudder & quadrant move a little but the wheel & the chain sprocket of the auto pilot do not move at all. We assume this is in the R&P. Would this be a symptom of a potential steering system failure? Since we have two steering cables, if we lost one would we be able to steer with the remaining one? We are currently in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico and are getting ready to jump across to the So. Pacific. We have lived aboard & cruised "Aphrodite" for the past 10 years. We love our Amel more every year!! Tom & Mary Ellen


Refrigerator

woods deborah <woodsdeborah_56@...>
 

Horst

The size of the fridge that we have just taken out of our Maramu is Width - 50cm, Depth 65cm, Height 87cm I hope that this helps

Deb
sv Orion1 ( currently in Liverpool Marina being updated in prepartion for journey south to warmer climes in the spring)


Refrigerator

Horst Pause <horst.puddleduck@...>
 

Could someone measure height, width and depth of the cupboard into which the refrigerator fits on a Maramu, please. I am away from the boat but would like to order the correct size of fridge, mine is about packing up. Thanks, Horst, Puddleduck, Maramu 168, 1985


Rack & Pinion

amel46met
 

Hi to all from Mary Ellen & Tom on the 1983 Amel 46 "Aphrodite" out of Santa Cruz,California. Since the rack & pinion subject has come up, we have some questions. We have a "clunk, clunk" sound in the R&P area of the steering system. When we are anchored & there is a swell running, the rudder & quadrant move a little but the wheel & the chain sprocket of the auto pilot do not move at all. We assume this is in the R&P. Would this be a symptom of a potential steering system failure? Since we have two steering cables, if we lost one would we be able to steer with the remaining one? We are currently in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico and are getting ready to jump across to the So. Pacific. We have lived aboard & cruised "Aphrodite" for the past 10 years. We love our Amel more every year!! Tom & Mary Ellen


Re: [Amel] Re: water heater

richard03801@...
 

Hi Danny regarding your water a pin hole is simply a sign post of things to come. That tank is a pressure vessel and given that it is springing leaks it might be a good idea to replace it sooner then flooded later.
Good luck
Richard and Joan on SM209
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T


Re: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

David Mackintosh <dlm48@...>
 

come on guys how hard is it to change the subject line!!!

all you are doing is seriously polluting the heaving to (hove to) thread

regards

David

On 6 February 2010 16:49, Eric Lindholm <etlindholm@sbcglobal.net> wrote:



I use a commercial battery tester. It puts a load on the battery and you
get the result in about 10 seconds. Very accurate. You are supposed to check
the battery when it is fully charged, but you can get an accurate assessment
even when it isn't. It will tell you if the battery is in good shape, fair
or bad. Can be used on 6 volt or 12 volt systems. In addition it will also
check your charging system. They are about $50 and the size of half a loaf
of bread.

Eric Mamaru 105

________________________________
From: Jean Boucharlat <jean.boucharlat@orange.fr<jean.boucharlat%40orange.fr>
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Sent: Sat, February 6, 2010 2:20:28 AM
Subject: RE: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"


Iv and Eric,

Yes indeed you can measure batteries with a hydrometer assuming that they
are not gel type or any other kind of so-called sealed batteries (although
some of those can actually be opened).

Jean Boucharlat


From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of kimberlite
Sent: vendredi 5 février 2010 20:20
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: RE: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

Iv,

You can also charge the batteries and measure them with a hydrometer.


Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com> ] On Behalf Of Jean
Boucharlat
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2010 3:53 AM
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com

<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

Iv,

I’ve had a similar problem to yours and, from experience, can tell you the
advice given to you by Kent is sound.

I will emphasize just one thing: it takes only a single bad battery to
screw
up the whole bank.

The procedure to find out which is the bad battery is tedious but quite
simple:

First: find out which group of two batteries is the problem (you know that
12V batteries are paired to obtain 24V)

1 – disconnect all pairs of batteries from the rest of the bank

2 – charge each pair separately for “X” minutes or hours until they reach
approximately 25.4 or 25.5V.

3 – keep the charged pairs idle for about 15 to 20 min. (without any
current
draw on them)

4 – measure their voltage after the rest period

5 – if voltage is still over approximately 25.2 or 25.3 the pair is a good
one

6 – if the voltage has fallen down to any value under 23V. (actually
probably much lower) that pair has a problem.

Second: now that you have identified the problematic pair(s) you do the
same
procedure (using a 12V. charger) for each of the batteries in the pair to
find out which is the wrong one (they may be both wrong).

This is time consuming but really not difficult to perform.

All the best,

Jean Boucharlat

Formerly SM 232

From: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
yahoogroups. com [mailto:amelyachtow ners@
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com> yahoogroups. com] On Behalf
Of
Kent Robertson
Sent: vendredi 5 février 2010 02:17
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

Hi, Iv,
Sorry to hear you're having problems. I'm no expert at this, but am
learning
fast. Here's what I know from my experience with Kristy's batteries. Anyone
else out there that sees something wrong in what I say, please chime in.

My engine is the TMD22, not TAMD22. It produces 78HP rather than the 105 HP
of the TAMD, immaterial to the question at hand.

I have had problems with my batteries failing this winter in spite of only
being ~18 months old. It was obvious because the voltage dropped much
faster
than it should during discharge (It is a 320 Ah battery bank that after
only
40Ah of discharge was down to 22V ...the MasterVolt monitor showed 88%
charge). I was charging for an hour 3-4 times a day to keep the voltage up.
Before my batteries started failing, I was able to keep them well charged
using the Onan (or the Volvo when I was motoring) an hour or two twice a
day
with overall Ah use of 140-150 Ah per day. The voltage should still show
24v
after a discharge of 80 or more Ah.

The "percent" charge shown on the Mastervolt battery monitor is just a
reflection of the total Ah programmed into the monitor...eg. if it's
programmed for a 320 Ah battery bank, and you use 80 Ah after a full
charge,
it will show the bank at 75%. Make sure that the Ah programmed into the
monitor is correct for your battery bank. Also, it doesn't reset until the
charge reaches close to 100% of the preset Ah of the bank. If you only
charge to 95% it won't reset to start counting Ah used again. If you watch
the A monitor while charging with all electrical equipment off, it should
show + Amperage equal or nearly equal to your chargers capacity (ie a 50
amp
charger should show close to 50A on the monitor) when the batteries are
discharged by more than ~10%. This will diminish as the batteries are
charged more fully (as regulated by your charger) until it's only an amp or
less when fully charged. If you are charging with a 50amp charger and the
monitor shows only 20 amps early in the charging process, your charger may
not be functioning properly. If you have any electrical equipment
operating,
the Amperage shown on the monitor will be the Amperage going into the
batteries (a positive value) less the Amperage being used by the equipment
(a negative value)...so if you're using 10 amps and charging with 50 amps,
the Amp monitor will show 40 amps if everything is working properly.

If your voltage drops below 24v after only 75Ah of discharge (assuming you
have a total bank of 320 Ah), you may have a bad battery or two. When you
have a bad battery, it draws current during charging that is passed through
the good battery with which it is in series, decreasing the life of the
good
battery. After a full charge, check the voltage of each pair in series. Any
pair that is lower than the pair with the highest voltage, check each
battery individually (disconnect the pair from the rest and from each
other)
and see if one is significantly lower voltage than the other. If so, that
bad battery is causing charging voltage to flow thru the good ones without
any positive effect, and will decrease the life of the good ones you still
have. If you have two bad ones, disconnect them and put the good ones in
pairs until you can replace the bad ones. It will decrease your total Ah,
but will make charging what you have more efficient. If
all batteries seem to be OK, consider "equalizing" them to get desulfate
the
plates. On Kristy, my Heart Interface charger/inverter can be used to do
this easily. See earlier posts about "equalizing" your batteries every
couple of months.

I hope I'm not just rattling on with stuff you already know, but it sounds
to me like either you have a bad charger, one or more bad batteries, or a
battery monitor that is either misprogrammed or malfunctioning. It's
unlikely that both your generator charger and your alternator are broken at
the same time, but I guess it's possible...that' s why I'm leaning toward
the
bad battery or battery monitor problem.

It would help to know what Ah your battery bank is, what the voltage is
when
fully charged and after 25% of the Ah capacity is discharged, what the Amp
meter reads during charging when all electrical equipment is turned off,
both early and after the charger has been on for a couple of hours. I'm
sure
others are much more knowlegable than I am...please tell us where I'm wrong
and set us straight.

Good luck,
Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

____________ _________ _________ __
From: Iv Pepe <iv_pepe@yahoo. <mailto:iv_pepe% <iv_pepe%25> 40yahoo.com>
com
<mailto:iv_pepe% <iv_pepe%25> 40yahoo.com> >
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>

yahoogroups. com <mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Sent: Thu, February 4, 2010 4:20:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

Hi ,Kent,
I have a SM223 with 105hp tamd22 and 60A alternator,you my have the same
engin? My problem is
having a daily daily consumtiopn abb 150Ah, charging twice a day one hr.I
get in batteries not more then 70 -75 A.After 3-4 days my batterie bank is
abb,50% empty!!
Pls explain how youi manage with this.
SM223 Fortuna
Iv

____________ _________ _________ __
De: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>
Para: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Enviado: sáb,12 diciembre, 2009 06:28
Asunto: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

Hi, John, et al,
I tried heaving-to while waiting to come into St Thomas. We were in 25kt
winds and 4-6 ft seas. With the main and jib (135%) each at about 1 "reef"
the motion was comfortable, but the bow kept dropping off and I sailed out
of my "slick" at about 1.5kts. When I brought out the mizzen and finally
rolled up the jib completely she sat at the prescribed "50degrees" off the
wind, but still made enough headway that I sailed out of the slick. It was
fine for the purpose this time, but if I understand correctly, I want to be
slipping directly downwind to keep the slick between me and the oncoming
waves if I'm in a breaking sea (a la the Pardee's).Anyone with an SM who's
figured out how to do that without deploying a sea anchor off the side of
the boat?

Thanks,
Kent
SM 243
"Kristy"




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] water heater

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

look at this link for battery test :
http://www.trojanbattery.com/BatteryMaintenance/Testing.aspx

JLM
CottonBay
------------------------------------------------------------------------
Danny SIMMS a Ă©crit :


Thank you all for your suggestions and advice, for the moment I have
repaired the hole (successfully so far) but I will keep a file of the
options for replacement.
Kind Regards
Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl

--- On Thu, 4/2/10, murray k. seidel <mseidel@ec.rr.com
<mailto:mseidel%40ec.rr.com>> wrote:

From: murray k. seidel <mseidel@ec.rr.com <mailto:mseidel%40ec.rr.com>>
Subject: RE: [Amel] water heater
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Date: Thursday, 4 February, 2010, 1:33 AM



MY WATER HEATER IN SM349 SUFFERED HEAT EXCHANGER FAILURE. Go on
internet to
find company in new jersey . It was found under topic Quik-Nautic I
believe...
They shipped me a replacement at a reasonable price and it was easily
installed by us.. I believe it came ups. Murray Seidel

From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of kimberlite
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 6:25 PM
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: RE: [Amel] water heater

Hi,

I replaced mine with a isotherm-isotemp. It is available from Budget
Marine
in the islands.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com> ] On Behalf Of Danny SIMMS
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 11:56 AM
To: amel owners
Subject: [Amel] water heater

Hi All, we are in the US Virgin Islands and our hot water heater tank has
sprung a leak. The unit is a Quick Nautic Boiler 40 Litre capacity,
220 volt
1200 watt. Any suggestions as to most economical replacement and given our
location where best to try.
Regards
Danny and Yvonne
Ocean Pearl SM 299





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

jlm@jlmertz.fr
 

look at this link for battery test :
http://www.trojanbattery.com/BatteryMaintenance/Testing.aspx

JLM
CottonBay
------------------------------------------------------------------------
kimberlite a Ă©crit :



Eric,

I purchased one of those load testers to test my last set of batteries.
Most tested very good. However when I opened the batteries up many cells
were almost totally dry. I believe the battery load tester is not the
thing
to use for deep cycle batteries as they are developed for starting
batteries. I had a crewmember on board who spent 11 years in a submarine.
They use deep cycle batteries. He said they only is to use a hydrometer on
wet cell deep cycle batteries.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>] On Behalf Of Eric Lindholm
Sent: Saturday, February 06, 2010 11:50 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
Subject: Re: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

I use a commercial battery tester. It puts a load on the battery and
you get
the result in about 10 seconds. Very accurate. You are supposed to
check the
battery when it is fully charged, but you can get an accurate assessment
even when it isn't. It will tell you if the battery is in good shape, fair
or bad. Can be used on 6 volt or 12 volt systems. In addition it will also
check your charging system. They are about $50 and the size of half a loaf
of bread.

Eric Mamaru 105

________________________________
From: Jean Boucharlat <jean.boucharlat@
<mailto:jean.boucharlat%40orange.fr>
orange.fr>
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>
yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sat, February 6, 2010 2:20:28 AM
Subject: RE: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

Iv and Eric,

Yes indeed you can measure batteries with a hydrometer assuming that they
are not gel type or any other kind of so-called sealed batteries (although
some of those can actually be opened).

Jean Boucharlat

From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of kimberlite
Sent: vendredi 5 février 2010 20:20
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: RE: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

Iv,

You can also charge the batteries and measure them with a hydrometer.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com> ] On Behalf Of Jean
Boucharlat
Sent: Friday, February 05, 2010 3:53 AM
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

Iv,

I've had a similar problem to yours and, from experience, can tell you the
advice given to you by Kent is sound.

I will emphasize just one thing: it takes only a single bad battery to
screw
up the whole bank.

The procedure to find out which is the bad battery is tedious but quite
simple:

First: find out which group of two batteries is the problem (you know that
12V batteries are paired to obtain 24V)

1 -- disconnect all pairs of batteries from the rest of the bank

2 -- charge each pair separately for "X" minutes or hours until they reach
approximately 25.4 or 25.5V.

3 -- keep the charged pairs idle for about 15 to 20 min. (without any
current
draw on them)

4 -- measure their voltage after the rest period

5 -- if voltage is still over approximately 25.2 or 25.3 the pair is a
good
one

6 -- if the voltage has fallen down to any value under 23V. (actually
probably much lower) that pair has a problem.

Second: now that you have identified the problematic pair(s) you do
the same
procedure (using a 12V. charger) for each of the batteries in the pair to
find out which is the wrong one (they may be both wrong).

This is time consuming but really not difficult to perform.

All the best,

Jean Boucharlat

Formerly SM 232

From: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
yahoogroups. com [mailto:amelyachtow ners@
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com> yahoogroups. com] On
Behalf Of
Kent Robertson
Sent: vendredi 5 février 2010 02:17
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
yahoogroups. com
Subject: Re: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

Hi, Iv,
Sorry to hear you're having problems. I'm no expert at this, but am
learning
fast. Here's what I know from my experience with Kristy's batteries.
Anyone
else out there that sees something wrong in what I say, please chime in.

My engine is the TMD22, not TAMD22. It produces 78HP rather than the
105 HP
of the TAMD, immaterial to the question at hand.

I have had problems with my batteries failing this winter in spite of only
being ~18 months old. It was obvious because the voltage dropped much
faster
than it should during discharge (It is a 320 Ah battery bank that
after only
40Ah of discharge was down to 22V ...the MasterVolt monitor showed 88%
charge). I was charging for an hour 3-4 times a day to keep the
voltage up.
Before my batteries started failing, I was able to keep them well charged
using the Onan (or the Volvo when I was motoring) an hour or two twice
a day
with overall Ah use of 140-150 Ah per day. The voltage should still
show 24v
after a discharge of 80 or more Ah.

The "percent" charge shown on the Mastervolt battery monitor is just a
reflection of the total Ah programmed into the monitor...eg. if it's
programmed for a 320 Ah battery bank, and you use 80 Ah after a full
charge,
it will show the bank at 75%. Make sure that the Ah programmed into the
monitor is correct for your battery bank. Also, it doesn't reset until the
charge reaches close to 100% of the preset Ah of the bank. If you only
charge to 95% it won't reset to start counting Ah used again. If you watch
the A monitor while charging with all electrical equipment off, it should
show + Amperage equal or nearly equal to your chargers capacity (ie a
50 amp
charger should show close to 50A on the monitor) when the batteries are
discharged by more than ~10%. This will diminish as the batteries are
charged more fully (as regulated by your charger) until it's only an
amp or
less when fully charged. If you are charging with a 50amp charger and the
monitor shows only 20 amps early in the charging process, your charger may
not be functioning properly. If you have any electrical equipment
operating,
the Amperage shown on the monitor will be the Amperage going into the
batteries (a positive value) less the Amperage being used by the equipment
(a negative value)...so if you're using 10 amps and charging with 50 amps,
the Amp monitor will show 40 amps if everything is working properly.

If your voltage drops below 24v after only 75Ah of discharge (assuming you
have a total bank of 320 Ah), you may have a bad battery or two. When you
have a bad battery, it draws current during charging that is passed
through
the good battery with which it is in series, decreasing the life of
the good
battery. After a full charge, check the voltage of each pair in
series. Any
pair that is lower than the pair with the highest voltage, check each
battery individually (disconnect the pair from the rest and from each
other)
and see if one is significantly lower voltage than the other. If so, that
bad battery is causing charging voltage to flow thru the good ones without
any positive effect, and will decrease the life of the good ones you still
have. If you have two bad ones, disconnect them and put the good ones in
pairs until you can replace the bad ones. It will decrease your total Ah,
but will make charging what you have more efficient. If
all batteries seem to be OK, consider "equalizing" them to get
desulfate the
plates. On Kristy, my Heart Interface charger/inverter can be used to do
this easily. See earlier posts about "equalizing" your batteries every
couple of months.

I hope I'm not just rattling on with stuff you already know, but it sounds
to me like either you have a bad charger, one or more bad batteries, or a
battery monitor that is either misprogrammed or malfunctioning. It's
unlikely that both your generator charger and your alternator are
broken at
the same time, but I guess it's possible...that' s why I'm leaning toward
the
bad battery or battery monitor problem.

It would help to know what Ah your battery bank is, what the voltage
is when
fully charged and after 25% of the Ah capacity is discharged, what the Amp
meter reads during charging when all electrical equipment is turned off,
both early and after the charger has been on for a couple of hours.
I'm sure
others are much more knowlegable than I am...please tell us where I'm
wrong
and set us straight.

Good luck,
Kent
S/V Kristy
SM 243

____________ _________ _________ __
From: Iv Pepe <iv_pepe@yahoo. <mailto:iv_pepe% 40yahoo.com> com
<mailto:iv_pepe% 40yahoo.com> >
To: amelyachtowners@ <mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
yahoogroups. com <mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
Sent: Thu, February 4, 2010 4:20:06 PM
Subject: Re: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

Hi ,Kent,
I have a SM223 with 105hp tamd22 and 60A alternator,you my have the same
engin? My problem is
having a daily daily consumtiopn abb 150Ah, charging twice a day one hr.I
get in batteries not more then 70 -75 A.After 3-4 days my batterie bank is
abb,50% empty!!
Pls explain how youi manage with this.
SM223 Fortuna
Iv

____________ _________ _________ __
De: Kent Robertson <karkauai@yahoo. com>
Para: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Enviado: sáb,12 diciembre, 2009 06:28
Asunto: [Amel] the art of "hoving to"

Hi, John, et al,
I tried heaving-to while waiting to come into St Thomas. We were in 25kt
winds and 4-6 ft seas. With the main and jib (135%) each at about 1 "reef"
the motion was comfortable, but the bow kept dropping off and I sailed out
of my "slick" at about 1.5kts. When I brought out the mizzen and finally
rolled up the jib completely she sat at the prescribed "50degrees" off the
wind, but still made enough headway that I sailed out of the slick. It was
fine for the purpose this time, but if I understand correctly, I want
to be
slipping directly downwind to keep the slick between me and the oncoming
waves if I'm in a breaking sea (a la the Pardee's).Anyone with an SM who's
figured out how to do that without deploying a sea anchor off the side of
the boat?

Thanks,
Kent
SM 243
"Kristy"

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




Re: [Amel] Re: water heater

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Thanks
Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl

--- On Wed, 3/2/10, usrey_chuck <usrey_chuck@yahoo.com> wrote:


From: usrey_chuck <usrey_chuck@yahoo.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: water heater
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, 3 February, 2010, 8:49 AM


 




I just purchased a replacement water heater from ahoycaptain.

http://www.ahoycapt ain.com/shop/ quick_nautic_ b3.html

The cost was $430 and that included shipping. Before making the order I checked with Amel to make sure that I was ordering the correct size. They told me that my boat was had the 600 watt unit as original equipment so that is what I ordered as a replacement. ( 40 L and 600 watts). I called the Quick company and they recommenced a few web based providers. Ahoycaptain was the least expensive and as it turned out the unit was shipped to me direct from Quick. I have not installed the heater yet but it looks just like the old one and I don't expect any problem ( famous last words )

http://www.ahoycapt ain.com/shop/ quick_nautic_ b3.html

--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Danny SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi All, we are in the US Virgin Islands and our hot water heater tank has sprung a leak. The unit is a Quick Nautic Boiler 40 Litre capacity, 220 volt 1200 watt. Any suggestions as to most economical replacement and given our location where best to try. 
Regards
Danny and Yvonne
Ocean Pearl SM 299 









[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Re: water heater

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Hi Bill, we have been out of range for a while, doing a catch up, just saw your reply. Thanks for this but our hole is actually in the side of the stainless tank. I removed the tank, took the pipe assembly off the end and was able to effect a repair to the small hole. I will leave it at that for the moment and keep all the advice on file.
Kind Regards
Danny SM 299 Ocean Pearl

--- On Wed, 3/2/10, svbebe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com> wrote:


From: svbebe <yahoogroups@svbebe.com>
Subject: [Amel] Re: water heater
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, 3 February, 2010, 2:05 PM


 



Hi Danny,

Take a look at the photo at http://groups. yahoo.com/ group/amelyachto wners/photos/ album/1810067720 /pic/list

#387 had an Isotemp originally and we replaced it with the same model # Isotemp, but in the mean time Isotemp modified that model #.

Installing the new model was a little more than a normal "boat challenge" and possibly there was a better way to install it. BTW, it is most likely the heat element that is leaking/defective. I do not know about your mfg., but Isotemp sells the replacement element and Home Depot on St. Thomas will have a number of "universal" heating elements that may well fit.

It does not look like it, but the water heater will remove between the ceiling and the generator.

Budget Marine in St. Thomas had the Isotemp 40 liter when I was there last.

Judy says hi to Yvonne.

Best,

Bill
s/v BeBe, #387
BeBe Currently in Malaysia, crew in Siem Reap, Cambodia

--- In amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com, Danny SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:

Hi All, we are in the US Virgin Islands and our hot water heater tank has sprung a leak. The unit is a Quick Nautic Boiler 40 Litre capacity, 220 volt 1200 watt. Any suggestions as to most economical replacement and given our location where best to try. 
Regards
Danny and Yvonne
Ocean Pearl SM 299 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] Rack and Pinion

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

We had cable problems, very stiff steering, replaced them, all good.
Regards
Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl

--- On Wed, 3/2/10, eric <kimberlite@optonline.net> wrote:


From: eric <kimberlite@optonline.net>
Subject: [Amel] Rack and Pinion
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Wednesday, 3 February, 2010, 6:28 PM


 



I believe I have a bad steering rack and pinion.
has anyone had problems with this on their super maramu?
Fair winds
eric
sm 376 Kimberlite








[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] water heater

Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
 

Thank you all for your suggestions and advice, for the moment I have repaired the hole (successfully so far) but I will keep a file of the options for replacement.
Kind Regards
Danny and Yvonne SM 299 Ocean Pearl

--- On Thu, 4/2/10, murray k. seidel <mseidel@ec.rr.com> wrote:


From: murray k. seidel <mseidel@ec.rr.com>
Subject: RE: [Amel] water heater
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, 4 February, 2010, 1:33 AM


 



MY WATER HEATER IN SM349 SUFFERED HEAT EXCHANGER FAILURE. Go on internet to
find company in new jersey . It was found under topic Quik-Nautic I believe...
They shipped me a replacement at a reasonable price and it was easily
installed by us.. I believe it came ups. Murray Seidel

From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com] On Behalf Of kimberlite
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 6:25 PM
To: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
Subject: RE: [Amel] water heater

Hi,

I replaced mine with a isotherm-isotemp. It is available from Budget Marine
in the islands.

Fair Winds

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

_____

From: amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com>
[mailto:amelyachtowners@ yahoogroups. com
<mailto:amelyachtow ners%40yahoogrou ps.com> ] On Behalf Of Danny SIMMS
Sent: Monday, February 01, 2010 11:56 AM
To: amel owners
Subject: [Amel] water heater

Hi All, we are in the US Virgin Islands and our hot water heater tank has
sprung a leak. The unit is a Quick Nautic Boiler 40 Litre capacity, 220 volt
1200 watt. Any suggestions as to most economical replacement and given our
location where best to try.
Regards
Danny and Yvonne
Ocean Pearl SM 299

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]