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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Question and advise
Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
Hi guys
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Have you tried flushing the WC with fresh water from the shower, after turning off the salt water intake of course? It works a treat for me. Regards, Roger, Mango 28
On 10/04/2006, at 1:22 PM, asm283 wrote:
Hi Eric
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Question and advise
asm283 <no_reply@...>
Hi Eric
Thanks for the info. I found the breaker, it was driving me nuts. We are still in New Zealand will start to look for a weather window in the next few weeks to make our way to Fiji. If you leave your boat for a while what works well is putting some blue head liquid in the water manifold and flushig each toilet untill blue comes out. I have left the boat for months like this with no smell. Vito --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote: starboard electric winch.toilets a lot and leave nothing but salt water in them.getting any power. I know there must be a breaker that has tripped.However, I cannot find where this is. can anyone help?hose of the head. Here is a little tip to make it easier.first, let it drain. Then if you look at were the hose connects on to thea larger hose that is attached to the holding tank. It is mucheasier and neater if you disconnect the larger hose where it is attachedto the holding tank and pull the hose out from the top. I have doneit both ways and this is much easier.
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Re: muffler question
asm283 <no_reply@...>
Hello
On my boat asm 2000 # 283 the intake side of the muffler is 90mm and the exaust is 75mm. I tried to retrofit a vetus but I did not like the way it fit into the engine room. The main problem was the intake side only swiveled to 90 degrees. I ordered a replacement from Amel. I am in New Zealand so the choices I had may not be as good as what you can get in Europe. Good luck Vito Ciaravino --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "manfred_gans" <gomer2000@...> wrote: type. The engine is Volvo/Perkins TMD 22 P
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keel painting
eric freedman
Some of the paint has come off the keel of Kimberlite and shows bare steel.
What should I do to prepare this for anti fouling paint? Fair Winds, Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Question and advise
eric freedman
Vito,
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The breaker for my inflator is over the mid ships bunk beneath the starboard electric winch. I found that the head hoses get smelly if you do not flush the toilets a lot and leave nothing but salt water in them. Where are you now? Fair Winds, Eric
-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of asm283 Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 4:01 AM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Question and advise Hello The 24V plug for the dingy inflator in the lazarette is not getting any power. I know there must be a breaker that has tripped. However, I cannot find where this is. can anyone help? I you have not had the pleasure of cleaning/replacing the outlet hose of the head. Here is a little tip to make it easier. When you remove the hose it is best to disconnect the head end first, let it drain. Then if you look at were the hose connects on to the holding tank you will see the smaller head outlet hose going into a larger hose that is attached to the holding tank. It is much easier and neater if you disconnect the larger hose where it is attached to the holding tank and pull the hose out from the top. I have done it both ways and this is much easier. Thanks Vito ASM283 Wanderer Vito Yahoo! Groups Links
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muffler question
Franz Gans
Hi,
I want to change my (coroded) satinless steel muffler to a Vetus type. The engine is Volvo/Perkins TMD 22 P Unfortunately I forgot measuring the diameter of the exhaust elbow, when I was maintainig the boat in Greece, two weeks ago. Can anyone tell me the size? Or even better the model number of the recomended Vetus type and any installation tips. By the way, maintainig the turbo was easy to do, and the turbo was filled up with carbon and coroded. Gottschalk Riegel SM #300 Sardine
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Question and advise
asm283 <no_reply@...>
Hello
The 24V plug for the dingy inflator in the lazarette is not getting any power. I know there must be a breaker that has tripped. However, I cannot find where this is. can anyone help? I you have not had the pleasure of cleaning/replacing the outlet hose of the head. Here is a little tip to make it easier. When you remove the hose it is best to disconnect the head end first, let it drain. Then if you look at were the hose connects on to the holding tank you will see the smaller head outlet hose going into a larger hose that is attached to the holding tank. It is much easier and neater if you disconnect the larger hose where it is attached to the holding tank and pull the hose out from the top. I have done it both ways and this is much easier. Thanks Vito ASM283 Wanderer Vito
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo heat exchanger
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Thanks, Vito.
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
From: asm283 <no_reply@yahoogroups.com>
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AMEL 54 Help for specs.
bragliae <ebraglia@...>
I am going to order a new AMEL 54. I wonder if some actual owner could
help me to better specify options with the manufacturer (size of generator, type of watermaker etc.). Any help is very apreciated. Thank you.
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Re: Volvo heat exchanger
asm283 <no_reply@...>
Hi Ian
I had the heat exchange removed and serviced. It was semi complicated proedure. An owner could do it if he was familiar with the process. If you are not mechanically inclined I would not attempt it. There are seals to replace and most likely the heat exchange will be in bad shape. I also had the turbo removed and serviced. Check your muffler for rust. Hope this helps. Vito Wanderer --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian & Judy Jenkins" <ianjudyjenkins@...> wrote: his Volvo, but unfortunately I have deleted the relevant email. I now wantto do the same. Could he tell me if he did this himself and if so what isinvolved in extracting the insert? It looks as though , once the pipework hasbeen disconnected, four bolts holding a plate are extracted and thepipes holdng the seawater ( what I call the ¨insert¨) are simply pulled forwardand out of the exchanger. Is it this simple or do you also have remove theturbo to get access? Did you have to replace any seals?Azen, SM 302, Brazil
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Volvo heat exchanger
ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
Hi, recently an owner wrote of cleaning the heat exchanger of his Volvo, but unfortunately I have deleted the relevant email. I now want to do the same. Could he tell me if he did this himself and if so what is involved in extracting the insert? It looks as though , once the pipework has been disconnected, four bolts holding a plate are extracted and the pipes holdng the seawater ( what I call the insert) are simply pulled forward and out of the exchanger. Is it this simple or do you also have remove the turbo to get access? Did you have to replace any seals?
Any info would be very welcome, Fair winds, Ian Jenkins, Pen Azen, SM 302, Brazil
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues
eric freedman
Gary,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
When will you be on board? What will be your itinerary? I will be in the area from 4/26--5/6 Fair Winds, Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite
-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 10:16 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Dessalator Water Maker Issues 2 April 2006 I continue to investigate the watermaker issues. But Olivier Beaute, of Amel, has confirmed to me the following: (at least for watermakers of about my vintage, mannufactured about July 2001, Hull # 335), If everything is working as originally installed the salinity sensor should divert high salinity water if detected. However, if the salinity sensor or the circuity that senses the salinity fails the watermaker will start up and operate as if everything is normal even if high salinity water is being produced. Furthermore, there is no indication on the machine to indicate whether or not the salinity sensor is working properly. Thus my previous statement stands. If you want to avoid the failure scenario that I experienced (i.e. salt water being pumped into the fresh water tank when a membrane failed despite a green good quality water light) then you need a back up secondary salinity sensor with an alarm. Dessalator says that they do not have schematics or logic diagrams for their circuit board because it was manufactured by a sub-contractor that is no longer in business. They do say that they have about 50 spare circuit boards available if anyone wants theirs replaced. However, it still isn't clear how to best know if you circuit boards is working. I suggest the following: 1. Inspect the four fuses on the circuit board to make sure all are ok one fuse protects the circuit board one fuse protects the relays one fuse protects the solenoid one fuse is the main power to the circuit board fuse. I will post a picture - parts diagram with fuse sizes etc in an upcoming post. 2. Verify that the green LED on the circuit board is lit (it indicates that the DC power supply on the board is working 3. Verify continuity of the wiring to the circuit board from the salinity sensor at the membranes. I had a corroded wire inside a connector. 4. Verify there is continuity of the wiring from the circuit board to the solenoid. 5. Finally test the salinity sensor as I described in my previous post using salt water bath to see if the high salinity is detected and diverts the water. I am reverse engineering the circuit board and will have those details available after my upcoming trip to the boat. At this point I do not believe that there is a 400 hertz signal on the salinity sensor. It appears that it is a simple DC voltage on a Schmitt trigger buffered logic gate. More infor with schematics and a logic diagram in about 3 weeks. Gary Silver Yahoo! Groups Links
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halyard and sheet lengths
eric freedman
Here are the mainsail and genoa dimensions for halyards and sheets : from
the factory mainsail halyard : diameter 10 mm, length 17.20 meters, quality : VectranFair Winds, Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite -----Original Message----- From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 9:51 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: size of masthead sheaves and mainhalyard for SM 2000 --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dr. Seidel" <mseidel@...> wrote: I recently needed to know the diameter of the jib sheets. A quick email toOlivier Beaute, After Sales Service at amel@amel.fr yielded a prompt reply with the specifics for my Serial Number boat. I recommend that you send Olivier an email. I konw that this yahoo site will strip out the above email address so if you don't know amel.s email address go to their web site at amel.fr and get it there or email me personally and I will give it to you. Gary Silver I have to replace the mainhalyard on my sm#349. The prior owner had cutoff the majority of the halyard and it is hooked to a slide on a t-track on the mast. The halyard is less than 7/16 inches?!. DOes anyone know the sheeve size for the main halyard and the proper diam. of the original or recommended halyard? Thanks, murray seidel "Sundance" sm 349 Yahoo! Groups Links
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: size of masthead sheaves and mainhalyard for SM 2000
eric freedman
Hi,
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
Your main halyard is rigged properly. There is a matching piece of line that attaches to the mainsail halyard car and is used to loosen or tighten the halyard via a winch. There is no extra line on the halyard. Look in the owners manual you will se how this works This is the info on the halyard from the factory. mainsail halyard : diameter 10 mm, length 17.20 meters, quality : Vectran Fair Winds, Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite
-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of amelliahona Sent: Sunday, April 02, 2006 9:51 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: size of masthead sheaves and mainhalyard for SM 2000 --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dr. Seidel" <mseidel@...> wrote: I recently needed to know the diameter of the jib sheets. A quick email toOlivier Beaute, After Sales Service at amel@amel.fr yielded a prompt reply with the specifics for my Serial Number boat. I recommend that you send Olivier an email. I konw that this yahoo site will strip out the above email address so if you don't know amel.s email address go to their web site at amel.fr and get it there or email me personally and I will give it to you. Gary Silver I have to replace the mainhalyard on my sm#349. The prior owner had cutoff the majority of the halyard and it is hooked to a slide on a t-track on the mast. The halyard is less than 7/16 inches?!. DOes anyone know the sheeve size for the main halyard and the proper diam. of the original or recommended halyard? Thanks, murray seidel "Sundance" sm 349 Yahoo! Groups Links
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Dessalator Water Maker Issues
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
2 April 2006
I continue to investigate the watermaker issues. But Olivier Beaute, of Amel, has confirmed to me the following: (at least for watermakers of about my vintage, mannufactured about July 2001, Hull # 335), If everything is working as originally installed the salinity sensor should divert high salinity water if detected. However, if the salinity sensor or the circuity that senses the salinity fails the watermaker will start up and operate as if everything is normal even if high salinity water is being produced. Furthermore, there is no indication on the machine to indicate whether or not the salinity sensor is working properly. Thus my previous statement stands. If you want to avoid the failure scenario that I experienced (i.e. salt water being pumped into the fresh water tank when a membrane failed despite a green good quality water light) then you need a back up secondary salinity sensor with an alarm. Dessalator says that they do not have schematics or logic diagrams for their circuit board because it was manufactured by a sub-contractor that is no longer in business. They do say that they have about 50 spare circuit boards available if anyone wants theirs replaced. However, it still isn't clear how to best know if you circuit boards is working. I suggest the following: 1. Inspect the four fuses on the circuit board to make sure all are ok one fuse protects the circuit board one fuse protects the relays one fuse protects the solenoid one fuse is the main power to the circuit board fuse. I will post a picture - parts diagram with fuse sizes etc in an upcoming post. 2. Verify that the green LED on the circuit board is lit (it indicates that the DC power supply on the board is working 3. Verify continuity of the wiring to the circuit board from the salinity sensor at the membranes. I had a corroded wire inside a connector. 4. Verify there is continuity of the wiring from the circuit board to the solenoid. 5. Finally test the salinity sensor as I described in my previous post using salt water bath to see if the high salinity is detected and diverts the water. I am reverse engineering the circuit board and will have those details available after my upcoming trip to the boat. At this point I do not believe that there is a 400 hertz signal on the salinity sensor. It appears that it is a simple DC voltage on a Schmitt trigger buffered logic gate. More infor with schematics and a logic diagram in about 3 weeks. Gary Silver
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Re: size of masthead sheaves and mainhalyard for SM 2000
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Dr. Seidel" <mseidel@...> wrote:
I recently needed to know the diameter of the jib sheets. A quick email to Olivier Beaute,After Sales Service at amel@amel.fr yielded a prompt reply with the specifics for my Serial Number boat. I recommend that you send Olivier an email. I konw that this yahoo site will strip out the above email address so if you don't know amel.s email address go to their web site at amel.fr and get it there or email me personally and I will give it to you. Gary Silver I have to replace the mainhalyard on my sm#349. The prior owner had cut off the majorityof the halyard and it is hooked to a slide on a t-track on the mast. The halyard is less than 7/16 inches?!. DOes anyone know the sheeve size for the main halyard and the proper diam. of the original or recommended halyard? Thanks, murray seidel "Sundance" sm 349
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Yacht Security
John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
I have copied an article about security into the files section. It
appeared in the latest issue of the Royal Yachting Association magazine. One of the alarming things about it, at least for those of us in the Mediteranean, is that it indicates that there have been piracy or perhaps robbery attacks in Greek and Turkish waters. One of the worst aspects does not get covered, namely robbers coming on board whilst the crew are asleep. When we were in the Caribbean we met one couple who were totally traumatised by two natives getting on board in the middle of the night with machetes and assaulting them as well as robbing them.They were on their way back to Europe to sell their boat and in the meantime they locked themselves in every evening despite the heat. I read a report that a similar thing happened to a couple anchored in a bay in St Lucia. A Swan was boarded in Barbuda and the four people on board were murdered about 15 years ago. When we were in Venezuela about that time our boat was out of the water in the boat yard and there was good security by patrols with dogs etc. but we met a couple who had their boat in a slip and had locked their outboard on the transom before retiring. Thieves got on board and took the padlock keys off the chart table and made off with the engine without waking them We also had our dinghy stolen whilst we were asleep in a small marina at an offshore island. The thieves had cut through the painter and made off with the dinghy with a 15 hp outboard. Luckily we were able to buy a new locally made dinghy and another engine in Venezuela quite cheaply. The loss of a dinghy is potentially a major problem as it makes it very difficult to get ashore when at anchor so we also bought a cheap plastic dinghy as a precaution. What should one do. So far as the yacht is concerned it would be very easy to have a mesh covered frame to slide in on top of the washboard/hatch and of course to have some way of securing any hatches with grills so that there is still ventilation. Joshua Slocombe used to spread thumb tacks on the deck which made for the noisy departure of boarders. So far as dinghies are concerned I believe in making up a long length of strong but flexible stainless wire with eyes swaged on at both ends. It should be long enough to secure it to a fixing point at the front of the dinghy and still be long enough to have about 3 or 4 yards of scope for those many occasions when there is only one place for all the cruisers to go ashore I did have a nice long plastic covered wire made by Masterlock but one day the eye splice fell off as the plastic had chafed through and the non stainless wire had rusted through without any obvious sign of weakness ! Happy sailing, Anne and John SM 319
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Re: Fuel dip stick
John and Anne on Bali Hai <hollamby@...>
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "chislyons" <chislyons@...>
wrote: anyone know if this will cause a problem with the piece blocking orIt will do no harm, A piece of wire a bit longer than the piece you still hold should hook into the broken piece and pull it out. Happy fishing, John
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Fuel dip stick
chislyons <chislyons@...>
Has anyone broken the fuel dip stick? We had a mishap and broke the
stick at the 300 liter mark and end piece is in the tank. Does anyone know if this will cause a problem with the piece blocking or restricting the fuel to the engine? Thanks Dave
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator
PFM53 <pfm53@...>
Thanks to all who responded to my question. We opted to install a dual Racor
toggle quoted messageShow quoted text
500 system, similar to what the new Amel's include. Jerry
------ Original Message ------
Received: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 12:11:23 PM PST From: Eric Lindholm <etlindholm@sbcglobal.net> To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator That should be more than adequate, the largest Detroit Diesels flow 100 gph.Eric 105 filter/water separator is recommended for the Volvo TMD22? I would think that the 60 GPH (227LPH) size should berequirements for this engine.
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