Hi Ian:

I believe your error on your TDS meter upon startup is due to High TDS (i.e. high EC,
electrical conductivity) due to TDS CREEP. See my post # 2062 dated March 13, 2006 for
a discussion on TDS Creep. It takes my system about 60 seconds running at pressure
for the EC to recover from the TDS Creep and come down to about 400-450
microSiemens/cm where it stabilizes during the run. Certainly intermittent testing of TDS
is better than nothing but I really like the security of knowing from minute to minute that
the EC is within acceptable limits. The Omega EC monitor sounds an alarm at an EC level
that you can set. I set my at 800 microSiemens/cm.

Besides the EC meter installed about six inches downstream from membranes I also
installed a valve and short hose just prior to the product water line entering the copper
pipe that empties into the fresh water tank. I can take water samples here also to verify
with my hand held TDS meter.

TESTING THE DESSALATOR EC sensor. The Dessalator circuit board has an oscillator
circuit on it that I would guess from previous posts supplies 400 hertz low level AC
voltage to the sensor and measures the EC of the product water. I tested my system as
follows: I took the sensor out of the piping and immersed it in a cup of fresh water. The
system started up, changed over at the one minute mark to a green light and good quality
indication and produced water. At that point I poored sea water into the cup with the
sensor in it. Using my hand held TDS meter I verified that the TDS of the water in which
the sensor was immersed was greater than 10,000 ppm. The system did not alarm and
continued to produce water. I waited for 10 minutes with it in this mode to see if there
was a timer function to prevent transient high TDS from prematurelyl shutting down the
system but for at least ten minutes the system continued to run without diverting the
water or indicating poor quality water. I then shut the system down and let it rest for 30
minutes. Then with the sensor still immersed in the salt water sample I started the system
up normally. It started exactly as before, at one minute green light, water production
starts and continues. So in neither situation did the sensor and associated circuity
recongnize "bad quality" water and function appropriately.

See my previous posts related to lack of documentation on the circuity or a coherent
explanation of how the system is SUPPOSED to work. Joel shares our frustration with
Dessalator and is indeed having trouble with the NEW Dessalator system on his 54. I have
written to Jean Jacques Lemonier regarding this issue and Olivier Beaute has responded to
me in a timely, professional and detailed fashion. I am awaiting a few clarifications from
Olivier and then will summarize what I have found. I stand by my suggestion to all Amel
owners with Dessalator systems that they should install an independant EC monitor
(preferably a continuous monitor). Amel remains the finest company I have ever done
business with.

Regards,

Gary Silver Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335 Lying Sea Cow Bay, Tortola, BVI

Hi Ian,

Look up Gary's posting of Feb. 24, 2006, #1998 on this site, in
which he explains how he plumbed the TDS meter inline.

Roy

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...>
wrote:

Hi Roy,

I look forward to hearing from Gary about his experiences with an

inline TDS

meter.

Cheers

Ian

Hi Roy,

Thanks for the mail. You are right. The later SM's did not come with the
faucet on the water maker control panel. It was relocated to the oil
reservoir attached to the high pressure pump. It makes for easy and frequent
oil changes, but to sample the water product with my hand held Hanna TDS
meter, I have to disconnect the pipe in the engine room that goes to the
tank and gather a sample into a cup.

I look forward to hearing from Gary about his experiences with an inline TDS
meter.

Cheers

Ian

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...>
wrote:

Hi Roy,

Would you please let me know if you have successfully installed

your inline TDS meters?

Hi Ian,

I ended up buying the portable TDS meter, and will check it out when
I go to the boat next month. Gary Silver on Liahona, I believe,
installed the in-line sensor. He should tell you about his
experience.

On my SM (#195) the control panel for the watermaker has a small
faucet that can be used to sample product water. I always check this
before filling my tank, as I have believed since the first year I had
the boat that the salinity tester did not work. I normally check the
product water by tasting it, but now I will supplement that by
measuring the TDS.

Do newer SMs still have this faucet on the Dessalator control panel
in the galley? It's a very valuable item, and maybe Dessalator can
be persuaded to re-install it if it's no longer there.

Regards, Roy

Thanks for the information. The 4000 rpm was without prop engaged. We have
yet to test out boat speed v. rpm. Volvo mixing elbow cost here in Maryland
was a bit over $600.
_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of asm283
Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 12:56 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 heat exchanger


Hi Mike

As I write this my cooling system is apart for serice. Same sort of
issues, blocked tubes with growth and calcium deposits. The miximg
elbow was corroded and needs replacement. I did find what looked
like weeds. I cant believe that these got trough the strainer then
made it past the impeller and then into the tubes. It must be some
kind of growth. I have spent quite a bit of time in the tropics and
strange things grow out here. This is the first time I have done
this on my 6 year old boat.

As far as the carbon built up in the turbo. This is a trait of this
engine. It seems that everyone has this problem. Just put it on your
maintenane list. I have had it cleaned and serviced twice in the
past year. I have done a lot of low RPM motoring in the past year
(600 hours) wich will cause the carbon built up. You will find that
you will run at low RPMs in order to get better fuel economy.
Important for long passages.

Also, check your muffler for corrosion.

When you say that you got the engine up to 4,000 rpm is with the
prop engaged. What was your speed.

Good luck with your SM. Sevice her and she will treat you right. I
crossed from Guadaloupe to New Zealand this year and not a thing
went wrong with the boat. People with much more expensive and newer
boats had many more problems that I did.

There is a maintenance list written by Mr. Selo of Amel floating
around this site. Follow his recomendations and the boat will work
well. Maybe someone who is closer to you can send it to you.

Vito Ciaravino

ASM # 283

Wanderer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "mike_ondra" <mondra@...>
wrote:

After de-winterizing our recently purchased SM 2000 and starting

the

engine, we rapidly blanketed the marina in what could easily have
been mistaken as a June fog on the Maine coast. Unlike fog it did
not lift or burn off as the day progressed.

Turns out the heat exchanger was at least 50% blocked with sea
grass, pine needles and other small debris as well as general

crud.

Perhaps it was the restricted flow that resulted in extra high
temperatures on the exhaust side and perhaps steam and water

pushing

back from the injection elbow into the turbo which was

significantly

carboned up. After a thorough cleaning of both the heat exchanger
and turbo, the engine burns clean and now peaks at 4000 rpm. We
hadn't tried to run it up last fall, but after dewinterizing and
before this cleanup it seemed to flag at around 2600 rpm.

Photos of the heat exchanger core are posted under Aletes SM#240.
One can see the amount of buildup on the core tubes and pieces of
debris jammed into the tubes and laying in the end caps.

This experience leads to two questions.

1) How did this debris get through the strainer? It seems the
strainer basket does not have a compressible seal at the top or
bottom, and in fact has a bit of vertical play. Might there be
enough of a gap to allow a blade of sea grass or pine needle to
sneak around the strainer? Would adding a compressible gasket to
the top and bottom of the basket provide the requisite seal?

2) Why does the Volvo manual not mention maintenance on the heat
exchanger or on the turbo? From what we found, it would seem a

look-

see would be appropriate at least every 500 hours.

Interested in the experience of others on these issues.

Mike Ondra
S/Y Aletes SM#240

_____

YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS



* Visit your group "amelyachtowners
<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners>; " on the web.


* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>


* Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/>; .


_____

Hi Roy,

Would you please let me know if you have successfully installed your inline
TDS meters? I installed one immediately after the outlet from the membranes
on my 160 l/h unit and it came up with an error message after a second or so
I suspect that the flow rate might have been too high there as the meter
worked when the output hose was connected taken off the copper pipe that
goes to the tank and the water allowed to pass through the sensor fittings.
That's too low down to mount the meter in the galley, so if you find a
location higher up that works, then please let me know.

There have been several promises from Rod Boreham and Joel for a
clarification statement on exactly what protection there is against bad
water polluting our one and only water tank, but to date I have seen nothing
published. The fact that no reassurance has been forthcoming gives me an
uneasy feeling. It's time the record was put straight. If the protection is
not there, then there is a potentially dangerous situation for those of us
who rely upon the integrity of our water tank for long distance passages.
The facts must be known to Desallator, so why have they not come forwards to
defend their design? It's time we knew whether the salinity probe does what
we all hope it will do, or not.

Several have suggested that shorting the probe contacts will test it's
function. I am told that this is not so as the probes are subjected to a 500
Hz alternating voltage and so shorting them does not simulate a high
salinity content.

Regards

Ian Shepherd SM 414 'Crusader'

Hi Mike

As I write this my cooling system is apart for serice. Same sort of
issues, blocked tubes with growth and calcium deposits. The miximg
elbow was corroded and needs replacement. I did find what looked
like weeds. I cant believe that these got trough the strainer then
made it past the impeller and then into the tubes. It must be some
kind of growth. I have spent quite a bit of time in the tropics and
strange things grow out here. This is the first time I have done
this on my 6 year old boat.

As far as the carbon built up in the turbo. This is a trait of this
engine. It seems that everyone has this problem. Just put it on your
maintenane list. I have had it cleaned and serviced twice in the
past year. I have done a lot of low RPM motoring in the past year
(600 hours) wich will cause the carbon built up. You will find that
you will run at low RPMs in order to get better fuel economy.
Important for long passages.

Also, check your muffler for corrosion.

When you say that you got the engine up to 4,000 rpm is with the
prop engaged. What was your speed.

Good luck with your SM. Sevice her and she will treat you right. I
crossed from Guadaloupe to New Zealand this year and not a thing
went wrong with the boat. People with much more expensive and newer
boats had many more problems that I did.

There is a maintenance list written by Mr. Selo of Amel floating
around this site. Follow his recomendations and the boat will work
well. Maybe someone who is closer to you can send it to you.

Vito Ciaravino

ASM # 283

Wanderer

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "mike_ondra" <mondra@...>
wrote:

After de-winterizing our recently purchased SM 2000 and starting

the

engine, we rapidly blanketed the marina in what could easily have
been mistaken as a June fog on the Maine coast. Unlike fog it did
not lift or burn off as the day progressed.

Turns out the heat exchanger was at least 50% blocked with sea
grass, pine needles and other small debris as well as general

crud.

Perhaps it was the restricted flow that resulted in extra high
temperatures on the exhaust side and perhaps steam and water

pushing

back from the injection elbow into the turbo which was

significantly

carboned up. After a thorough cleaning of both the heat exchanger
and turbo, the engine burns clean and now peaks at 4000 rpm. We
hadn't tried to run it up last fall, but after dewinterizing and
before this cleanup it seemed to flag at around 2600 rpm.

Photos of the heat exchanger core are posted under Aletes SM#240.
One can see the amount of buildup on the core tubes and pieces of
debris jammed into the tubes and laying in the end caps.

This experience leads to two questions.

1) How did this debris get through the strainer? It seems the
strainer basket does not have a compressible seal at the top or
bottom, and in fact has a bit of vertical play. Might there be
enough of a gap to allow a blade of sea grass or pine needle to
sneak around the strainer? Would adding a compressible gasket to
the top and bottom of the basket provide the requisite seal?

2) Why does the Volvo manual not mention maintenance on the heat
exchanger or on the turbo? From what we found, it would seem a

look-

see would be appropriate at least every 500 hours.

Interested in the experience of others on these issues.

Mike Ondra
S/Y Aletes SM#240

After de-winterizing our recently purchased SM 2000 and starting the
engine, we rapidly blanketed the marina in what could easily have
been mistaken as a June fog on the Maine coast. Unlike fog it did
not lift or burn off as the day progressed.

Turns out the heat exchanger was at least 50% blocked with sea
grass, pine needles and other small debris as well as general crud.
Perhaps it was the restricted flow that resulted in extra high
temperatures on the exhaust side and perhaps steam and water pushing
back from the injection elbow into the turbo which was significantly
carboned up. After a thorough cleaning of both the heat exchanger
and turbo, the engine burns clean and now peaks at 4000 rpm. We
hadn't tried to run it up last fall, but after dewinterizing and
before this cleanup it seemed to flag at around 2600 rpm.

Photos of the heat exchanger core are posted under Aletes SM#240.
One can see the amount of buildup on the core tubes and pieces of
debris jammed into the tubes and laying in the end caps.

This experience leads to two questions.

1) How did this debris get through the strainer? It seems the
strainer basket does not have a compressible seal at the top or
bottom, and in fact has a bit of vertical play. Might there be
enough of a gap to allow a blade of sea grass or pine needle to
sneak around the strainer? Would adding a compressible gasket to
the top and bottom of the basket provide the requisite seal?

2) Why does the Volvo manual not mention maintenance on the heat
exchanger or on the turbo? From what we found, it would seem a look-
see would be appropriate at least every 500 hours.

Interested in the experience of others on these issues.

Mike Ondra
S/Y Aletes SM#240

I OWN SUPER MARAMU 2000, YEAR 2001, HULL # 318. LOOKING FOR>
1) AMEL COMPLETE MAIN and/or MIZZEN MASTS,(without booms)
2) ELECTRIC FURLING GENOA,
3) or SPARE ELECTRIC MAIN MAST FURLING MOTOR and GENOA FURLING MOTOR.
4) ALSO USED SAILS FOR GENOA, MAIN & MIZZEN.
SINCERELY, S/Y LADY DIVINA, LYING CARIBBEAN,


---------------------------------
Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.

Hi Marc,
on our Maramu #143 (1983/84) there is a fixed "top stay" between the
main top and the mizzen top. Also, when we ordered complete new
standing rigging from Sparcraft in France about two years ago they
included this "top stay" in the shipment without even asking,so this
seems to be the standard layout.
As to the mizzen backstay ours are twin backstays running to the top
at the outer corners of the pushpit. Again Sparcraft apparently had
that on their files (or got it from Amel). I have seen some Maramus
having this configuration, but I have also seen some who have a single
backstay running to the center, but I don't know if they run to the
top or to the bottom of the pushpit. Does anyone know if Amel changed
that during the production of the "manual" Maramus ?

Regards,
Jochen, BLUE SONG, Maramu #143 (www.bluesong.de to be built soon).

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "sy melmar y" <newsgroup@...>
wrote:

hello
could anyone please tell me if originally the two masts were
interconectet by a "top stay"? on our maramu (1981) a stay is running
from the main mast top over a block/roll on the mizzen top down along
the mizzen to a point just above the block/roll of the mainsheet. since
i heard too many voices to remove it, i'm wondering if the amels put it
there.
similar question: the aftstay of the mizzen runs to a point on top of
the center pushpit or to the foot of the center pushpit? the welding
seems not to be original on our stern...
thanks,
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "sy melmar y" <newsgroup@...>
wrote:

hello
could anyone please tell me if originally the two masts were
interconectet by a "top stay"?

I was under the impression that this is called a "triatic stay" but
when I looked it up in a dictionary a triatic connected the main mast
and the fore mast. Does anyone know the correct term for a stay
connecting the main mast and the mizzen mast?

Peter Weston

Former owner of Amelia Pearl now Moon Dog (SM 248)

Hi Jerry,

At the AMEL Shipyard, we offer a dual Racor Filter with
manifold and vacuum gauge as an option. This allowed one to
switch to a clean filter in an emergency (they never fail in
open seas with flat water) and change the dirty one when
more convenient.

Even if an engine only burns a maximum of 6 GPH, like your
Volvo, it passes many times that amount through the
injection pump each hour to lubricate and cool the pump.
The excess is returned to the tank via the return line.

I would use a single 500 series RACOR at the minimum and
think the dual 75500 MAX2 setup is the best way to go.

Hope this helps.

Joel F. Potter,
AMEL 54, Hull # 14, HOLLIS

That should be more than adequate, the largest Detroit Diesels flow 100 gph. Eric 105

PFM53 <pfm53@usa.net> wrote: Does anyone know what size Racor fuel filter/water separator is recommended
for the Volvo TMD22? I would think that the 60 GPH (227LPH) size should be
sufficient, but I haven't been able to determine the specific GPH requirements
for this engine.

Thanks

Jerry






SPONSORED LINKS
Sailing Sailing yacht Amel Boating sailing

---------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS


Visit your group "amelyachtowners" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


---------------------------------

Does anyone know what size Racor fuel filter/water separator is recommended
for the Volvo TMD22? I would think that the 60 GPH (227LPH) size should be
sufficient, but I haven't been able to determine the specific GPH requirements
for this engine.

Thanks

Jerry

My maramu has a fixed "top stay" between the masts. Eric 105

sy melmar y <newsgroup@melmar.ch> wrote: hello
could anyone please tell me if originally the two masts were
interconectet by a "top stay"? on our maramu (1981) a stay is running
from the main mast top over a block/roll on the mizzen top down along
the mizzen to a point just above the block/roll of the mainsheet. since
i heard too many voices to remove it, i'm wondering if the amels put it
there.
similar question: the aftstay of the mizzen runs to a point on top of
the center pushpit or to the foot of the center pushpit? the welding
seems not to be original on our stern...
thanks,
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch





SPONSORED LINKS
Sailing Sailing yacht Amel Boating sailing

---------------------------------
YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS


Visit your group "amelyachtowners" on the web.

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service.


---------------------------------

hello
could anyone please tell me if originally the two masts were
interconectet by a "top stay"? on our maramu (1981) a stay is running
from the main mast top over a block/roll on the mizzen top down along
the mizzen to a point just above the block/roll of the mainsheet. since
i heard too many voices to remove it, i'm wondering if the amels put it
there.
similar question: the aftstay of the mizzen runs to a point on top of
the center pushpit or to the foot of the center pushpit? the welding
seems not to be original on our stern...
thanks,
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch

since i don't have had any possibility to talk and ask one of the
preowners of my maramu #89 a (maybe silly) question: in our aft cabin
there are two quite strong rings screwed in - one fwd just between the
entry door to the aft cabin and the little hatch to the cockpit, the
other one aft at the foot end of the beds on the center post. what are
they for? i want to keep/reinstate our maramu as original as possible. i
figuered that the amels did think something on most of the things they
were building in their boats. thanks for any hints.
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch

after reading your message i went on to search behind the folding table
... and of course i found the four holes of the original plate (with the
pipe according to your description). eric: no picture necessary, thanks
for the offer. i just have to find an easy way to get to a similar
support somewhere. thanks.
marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch

When we bought our SM in 2004, she came with 50m of 8mm chain. Last
year, we bought a new gypsy from Amel but you should be able to get
one from a Lofrans distributor as listed on their website or any
Lofrans supplier. We now have 90m (we had ordered 100m) of 10mm short
link hot dipped chain. Be aware that there are two sizes of short link
so match the chain to the gypsy. We have an anchor swivel between the
anchor and the chain.

We don't have a problem with storing the chain in the chain locker and
have not had any problems in that area. Nor is the weight a problem.
We did find that the chain peeler was catching the chain as we brought
it in. As we were not able to easily get a new one, we took it off. So
far, that has worked well. Don't use rope near coral.

Can't help with chain suppliers as our boat is in the Med and we are
Australian.

Bob and Ann Parry
Nowornot SM#33

Hi Joel

Thank you for the information. I will contact Olivier. I can get
Vetus products here. Hows the 54.

Vito

ASM # 283

Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F. Potter"
<jfpottercys@...> wrote:

Hi Vito,

That muffler is aluminum, not stainless. They are not able
to be repaired. Trust me. We tried twice and the only one
who was happy was the welding supplies store.

AMEL went to a plastic/poly type on later boats from VETUS.
The advantage was that they don't corrode and since they are
"flexible" they eliminated vibration and were a little more
quiet. The big negative is they melt if the raw water
injection at the exhaust elbow goes away. All in all, most
folks like them better than the original or the fiberglass
pot-type Aqua Lift brand mufflers. Perhaps Olivier could
supply us with the model number and any installation tips.
Hey Olivier...

All the best,
Joel F. Potter
AMEL 54 Hull # 14, HOLLIS