Re: TDS Tester and in-line meter
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
Hi Ian:
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I believe your error on your TDS meter upon startup is due to High TDS (i.e. high EC, electrical conductivity) due to TDS CREEP. See my post # 2062 dated March 13, 2006 for a discussion on TDS Creep. It takes my system about 60 seconds running at pressure for the EC to recover from the TDS Creep and come down to about 400-450 microSiemens/cm where it stabilizes during the run. Certainly intermittent testing of TDS is better than nothing but I really like the security of knowing from minute to minute that the EC is within acceptable limits. The Omega EC monitor sounds an alarm at an EC level that you can set. I set my at 800 microSiemens/cm. Besides the EC meter installed about six inches downstream from membranes I also installed a valve and short hose just prior to the product water line entering the copper pipe that empties into the fresh water tank. I can take water samples here also to verify with my hand held TDS meter. TESTING THE DESSALATOR EC sensor. The Dessalator circuit board has an oscillator circuit on it that I would guess from previous posts supplies 400 hertz low level AC voltage to the sensor and measures the EC of the product water. I tested my system as follows: I took the sensor out of the piping and immersed it in a cup of fresh water. The system started up, changed over at the one minute mark to a green light and good quality indication and produced water. At that point I poored sea water into the cup with the sensor in it. Using my hand held TDS meter I verified that the TDS of the water in which the sensor was immersed was greater than 10,000 ppm. The system did not alarm and continued to produce water. I waited for 10 minutes with it in this mode to see if there was a timer function to prevent transient high TDS from prematurelyl shutting down the system but for at least ten minutes the system continued to run without diverting the water or indicating poor quality water. I then shut the system down and let it rest for 30 minutes. Then with the sensor still immersed in the salt water sample I started the system up normally. It started exactly as before, at one minute green light, water production starts and continues. So in neither situation did the sensor and associated circuity recongnize "bad quality" water and function appropriately. See my previous posts related to lack of documentation on the circuity or a coherent explanation of how the system is SUPPOSED to work. Joel shares our frustration with Dessalator and is indeed having trouble with the NEW Dessalator system on his 54. I have written to Jean Jacques Lemonier regarding this issue and Olivier Beaute has responded to me in a timely, professional and detailed fashion. I am awaiting a few clarifications from Olivier and then will summarize what I have found. I stand by my suggestion to all Amel owners with Dessalator systems that they should install an independant EC monitor (preferably a continuous monitor). Amel remains the finest company I have ever done business with. Regards, Gary Silver Amel SM 2000 Hull # 335 Lying Sea Cow Bay, Tortola, BVI
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter
rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
Hi Ian,
Look up Gary's posting of Feb. 24, 2006, #1998 on this site, in which he explains how he plumbed the TDS meter inline. Roy --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...> wrote: inline TDS meter.
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter
Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
Hi Roy,
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Thanks for the mail. You are right. The later SM's did not come with the faucet on the water maker control panel. It was relocated to the oil reservoir attached to the high pressure pump. It makes for easy and frequent oil changes, but to sample the water product with my hand held Hanna TDS meter, I have to disconnect the pipe in the engine room that goes to the tank and gather a sample into a cup. I look forward to hearing from Gary about his experiences with an inline TDS meter. Cheers Ian
-------Original Message-------
From: rbenven44 Date: 03/24/06 17:42:14 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...> wrote: your inline TDS meters? Hi Ian, I ended up buying the portable TDS meter, and will check it out when I go to the boat next month. Gary Silver on Liahona, I believe, installed the in-line sensor. He should tell you about his experience. On my SM (#195) the control panel for the watermaker has a small faucet that can be used to sample product water. I always check this before filling my tank, as I have believed since the first year I had the boat that the salinity tester did not work. I normally check the product water by tasting it, but now I will supplement that by measuring the TDS. Do newer SMs still have this faucet on the Dessalator control panel in the galley? It's a very valuable item, and maybe Dessalator can be persuaded to re-install it if it's no longer there. Regards, Roy Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.385 / Virus Database: 268.2.6/288 - Release Date: 22/03/2006
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter
rbenven44 <no_reply@...>
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Ian Shepherd" <ocean53@...>
wrote: your inline TDS meters? Hi Ian, I ended up buying the portable TDS meter, and will check it out when I go to the boat next month. Gary Silver on Liahona, I believe, installed the in-line sensor. He should tell you about his experience. On my SM (#195) the control panel for the watermaker has a small faucet that can be used to sample product water. I always check this before filling my tank, as I have believed since the first year I had the boat that the salinity tester did not work. I normally check the product water by tasting it, but now I will supplement that by measuring the TDS. Do newer SMs still have this faucet on the Dessalator control panel in the galley? It's a very valuable item, and maybe Dessalator can be persuaded to re-install it if it's no longer there. Regards, Roy
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 heat exchanger
Mike Ondra <mondra@...>
Thanks for the information. The 4000 rpm was without prop engaged. We have
yet to test out boat speed v. rpm. Volvo mixing elbow cost here in Maryland was a bit over $600. _____ From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of asm283 Sent: Friday, March 24, 2006 12:56 AM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Volvo TMD22 heat exchanger Hi Mike As I write this my cooling system is apart for serice. Same sort of issues, blocked tubes with growth and calcium deposits. The miximg elbow was corroded and needs replacement. I did find what looked like weeds. I cant believe that these got trough the strainer then made it past the impeller and then into the tubes. It must be some kind of growth. I have spent quite a bit of time in the tropics and strange things grow out here. This is the first time I have done this on my 6 year old boat. As far as the carbon built up in the turbo. This is a trait of this engine. It seems that everyone has this problem. Just put it on your maintenane list. I have had it cleaned and serviced twice in the past year. I have done a lot of low RPM motoring in the past year (600 hours) wich will cause the carbon built up. You will find that you will run at low RPMs in order to get better fuel economy. Important for long passages. Also, check your muffler for corrosion. When you say that you got the engine up to 4,000 rpm is with the prop engaged. What was your speed. Good luck with your SM. Sevice her and she will treat you right. I crossed from Guadaloupe to New Zealand this year and not a thing went wrong with the boat. People with much more expensive and newer boats had many more problems that I did. There is a maintenance list written by Mr. Selo of Amel floating around this site. Follow his recomendations and the boat will work well. Maybe someone who is closer to you can send it to you. Vito Ciaravino ASM # 283 Wanderer --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "mike_ondra" <mondra@...> wrote: the engine, we rapidly blanketed the marina in what could easily havecrud. Perhaps it was the restricted flow that resulted in extra highpushing back from the injection elbow into the turbo which wassignificantly carboned up. After a thorough cleaning of both the heat exchangerlook- see would be appropriate at least every 500 hours. _____ YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS * Visit your group "amelyachtowners <http://groups.yahoo.com/group/amelyachtowners> " on the web. * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com <mailto:amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe> * Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service <http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> . _____
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter
Ian Shepherd <ocean53@...>
Hi Roy,
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Would you please let me know if you have successfully installed your inline TDS meters? I installed one immediately after the outlet from the membranes on my 160 l/h unit and it came up with an error message after a second or so I suspect that the flow rate might have been too high there as the meter worked when the output hose was connected taken off the copper pipe that goes to the tank and the water allowed to pass through the sensor fittings. That's too low down to mount the meter in the galley, so if you find a location higher up that works, then please let me know. There have been several promises from Rod Boreham and Joel for a clarification statement on exactly what protection there is against bad water polluting our one and only water tank, but to date I have seen nothing published. The fact that no reassurance has been forthcoming gives me an uneasy feeling. It's time the record was put straight. If the protection is not there, then there is a potentially dangerous situation for those of us who rely upon the integrity of our water tank for long distance passages. The facts must be known to Desallator, so why have they not come forwards to defend their design? It's time we knew whether the salinity probe does what we all hope it will do, or not. Several have suggested that shorting the probe contacts will test it's function. I am told that this is not so as the probes are subjected to a 500 Hz alternating voltage and so shorting them does not simulate a high salinity content. Regards Ian Shepherd SM 414 'Crusader'
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From: rbenven44 Date: 01/13/06 22:55:37 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] TDS Tester and in-line meter Hi, I have been following the discussion about watermakers and especially the reliability of the salinity sensor on the Dessalator unit. I recently had to replace a RO unit at home, and started looking for suppliers on line. I found this source: http://www.waterfiltersonline.com/reverse-osmosis-systems.asp that sells portable TDS meters for under $40, and an in-line meter for under $50. They seem like good investments to check the quality of our watermakers. I will be ordering one or both for our boat. Regards, Roy (Excalibur SM #195) Yahoo! Groups Links -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.14.17/229 - Release Date: 13/01/2006
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Re: Volvo TMD22 heat exchanger
asm283 <no_reply@...>
Hi Mike
As I write this my cooling system is apart for serice. Same sort of issues, blocked tubes with growth and calcium deposits. The miximg elbow was corroded and needs replacement. I did find what looked like weeds. I cant believe that these got trough the strainer then made it past the impeller and then into the tubes. It must be some kind of growth. I have spent quite a bit of time in the tropics and strange things grow out here. This is the first time I have done this on my 6 year old boat. As far as the carbon built up in the turbo. This is a trait of this engine. It seems that everyone has this problem. Just put it on your maintenane list. I have had it cleaned and serviced twice in the past year. I have done a lot of low RPM motoring in the past year (600 hours) wich will cause the carbon built up. You will find that you will run at low RPMs in order to get better fuel economy. Important for long passages. Also, check your muffler for corrosion. When you say that you got the engine up to 4,000 rpm is with the prop engaged. What was your speed. Good luck with your SM. Sevice her and she will treat you right. I crossed from Guadaloupe to New Zealand this year and not a thing went wrong with the boat. People with much more expensive and newer boats had many more problems that I did. There is a maintenance list written by Mr. Selo of Amel floating around this site. Follow his recomendations and the boat will work well. Maybe someone who is closer to you can send it to you. Vito Ciaravino ASM # 283 Wanderer --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "mike_ondra" <mondra@...> wrote: the engine, we rapidly blanketed the marina in what could easily havecrud. Perhaps it was the restricted flow that resulted in extra highpushing back from the injection elbow into the turbo which wassignificantly carboned up. After a thorough cleaning of both the heat exchangerlook- see would be appropriate at least every 500 hours.
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Volvo TMD22 heat exchanger
mike_ondra <mondra@...>
After de-winterizing our recently purchased SM 2000 and starting the
engine, we rapidly blanketed the marina in what could easily have been mistaken as a June fog on the Maine coast. Unlike fog it did not lift or burn off as the day progressed. Turns out the heat exchanger was at least 50% blocked with sea grass, pine needles and other small debris as well as general crud. Perhaps it was the restricted flow that resulted in extra high temperatures on the exhaust side and perhaps steam and water pushing back from the injection elbow into the turbo which was significantly carboned up. After a thorough cleaning of both the heat exchanger and turbo, the engine burns clean and now peaks at 4000 rpm. We hadn't tried to run it up last fall, but after dewinterizing and before this cleanup it seemed to flag at around 2600 rpm. Photos of the heat exchanger core are posted under Aletes SM#240. One can see the amount of buildup on the core tubes and pieces of debris jammed into the tubes and laying in the end caps. This experience leads to two questions. 1) How did this debris get through the strainer? It seems the strainer basket does not have a compressible seal at the top or bottom, and in fact has a bit of vertical play. Might there be enough of a gap to allow a blade of sea grass or pine needle to sneak around the strainer? Would adding a compressible gasket to the top and bottom of the basket provide the requisite seal? 2) Why does the Volvo manual not mention maintenance on the heat exchanger or on the turbo? From what we found, it would seem a look- see would be appropriate at least every 500 hours. Interested in the experience of others on these issues. Mike Ondra S/Y Aletes SM#240
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LADY DIVINA
L. CAMERON <solarconstruction@...>
I OWN SUPER MARAMU 2000, YEAR 2001, HULL # 318. LOOKING FOR>
1) AMEL COMPLETE MAIN and/or MIZZEN MASTS,(without booms) 2) ELECTRIC FURLING GENOA, 3) or SPARE ELECTRIC MAIN MAST FURLING MOTOR and GENOA FURLING MOTOR. 4) ALSO USED SAILS FOR GENOA, MAIN & MIZZEN. SINCERELY, S/Y LADY DIVINA, LYING CARIBBEAN, --------------------------------- Yahoo! Messenger with Voice. Make PC-to-Phone Calls to the US (and 30+ countries) for 2¢/min or less.
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Re: original rigging on maramu
Jochen Hofmann <jochen@...>
Hi Marc,
on our Maramu #143 (1983/84) there is a fixed "top stay" between the main top and the mizzen top. Also, when we ordered complete new standing rigging from Sparcraft in France about two years ago they included this "top stay" in the shipment without even asking,so this seems to be the standard layout. As to the mizzen backstay ours are twin backstays running to the top at the outer corners of the pushpit. Again Sparcraft apparently had that on their files (or got it from Amel). I have seen some Maramus having this configuration, but I have also seen some who have a single backstay running to the center, but I don't know if they run to the top or to the bottom of the pushpit. Does anyone know if Amel changed that during the production of the "manual" Maramus ? Regards, Jochen, BLUE SONG, Maramu #143 (www.bluesong.de to be built soon). --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "sy melmar y" <newsgroup@...> wrote:
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Re: original rigging on maramu
petervweston <no_reply@...>
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "sy melmar y" <newsgroup@...>
wrote: I was under the impression that this is called a "triatic stay" but when I looked it up in a dictionary a triatic connected the main mast and the fore mast. Does anyone know the correct term for a stay connecting the main mast and the mizzen mast? Peter Weston Former owner of Amelia Pearl now Moon Dog (SM 248)
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator
amelforme
Hi Jerry,
At the AMEL Shipyard, we offer a dual Racor Filter with manifold and vacuum gauge as an option. This allowed one to switch to a clean filter in an emergency (they never fail in open seas with flat water) and change the dirty one when more convenient. Even if an engine only burns a maximum of 6 GPH, like your Volvo, it passes many times that amount through the injection pump each hour to lubricate and cool the pump. The excess is returned to the tank via the return line. I would use a single 500 series RACOR at the minimum and think the dual 75500 MAX2 setup is the best way to go. Hope this helps. Joel F. Potter, AMEL 54, Hull # 14, HOLLIS
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator
Eric Lindholm
That should be more than adequate, the largest Detroit Diesels flow 100 gph. Eric 105
PFM53 <pfm53@usa.net> wrote: Does anyone know what size Racor fuel filter/water separator is recommended for the Volvo TMD22? I would think that the 60 GPH (227LPH) size should be sufficient, but I haven't been able to determine the specific GPH requirements for this engine. Thanks Jerry SPONSORED LINKS Sailing Sailing yacht Amel Boating sailing --------------------------------- YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "amelyachtowners" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. ---------------------------------
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Racor Fuel Filter/Water Separator
PFM53 <pfm53@...>
Does anyone know what size Racor fuel filter/water separator is recommended
for the Volvo TMD22? I would think that the 60 GPH (227LPH) size should be sufficient, but I haven't been able to determine the specific GPH requirements for this engine. Thanks Jerry
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] original rigging on maramu
Eric Lindholm
My maramu has a fixed "top stay" between the masts. Eric 105
sy melmar y <newsgroup@melmar.ch> wrote: hello could anyone please tell me if originally the two masts were interconectet by a "top stay"? on our maramu (1981) a stay is running from the main mast top over a block/roll on the mizzen top down along the mizzen to a point just above the block/roll of the mainsheet. since i heard too many voices to remove it, i'm wondering if the amels put it there. similar question: the aftstay of the mizzen runs to a point on top of the center pushpit or to the foot of the center pushpit? the welding seems not to be original on our stern... thanks, marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch SPONSORED LINKS Sailing Sailing yacht Amel Boating sailing --------------------------------- YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "amelyachtowners" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. ---------------------------------
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original rigging on maramu
sy melmar y <newsgroup@...>
hello
could anyone please tell me if originally the two masts were interconectet by a "top stay"? on our maramu (1981) a stay is running from the main mast top over a block/roll on the mizzen top down along the mizzen to a point just above the block/roll of the mainsheet. since i heard too many voices to remove it, i'm wondering if the amels put it there. similar question: the aftstay of the mizzen runs to a point on top of the center pushpit or to the foot of the center pushpit? the welding seems not to be original on our stern... thanks, marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch
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rings in aft cabin on maramu
sy melmar y <newsgroup@...>
since i don't have had any possibility to talk and ask one of the
preowners of my maramu #89 a (maybe silly) question: in our aft cabin there are two quite strong rings screwed in - one fwd just between the entry door to the aft cabin and the little hatch to the cockpit, the other one aft at the foot end of the beds on the center post. what are they for? i want to keep/reinstate our maramu as original as possible. i figuered that the amels did think something on most of the things they were building in their boats. thanks for any hints. marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] double bed in salon on maramu
sy melmar y <newsgroup@...>
after reading your message i went on to search behind the folding table
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... and of course i found the four holes of the original plate (with the pipe according to your description). eric: no picture necessary, thanks for the offer. i just have to find an easy way to get to a similar support somewhere. thanks. marc, MELMAR Y, maramu #89, www.melmar.ch
-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Eric Lindholm Sent: Montag, 20. März 2006 06:05 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] double bed in salon on maramu On the port aft side of the pedestal, the pipe sticks out from the pedestal and through the hole in the leaf of the table when it is down to make the bed on the port side. It is either polished stainless steel or chrome plated. It is at the height of the top of the port seat. The extended board rests on the seat all along the port side, the seat fore, and the pipe on the port side of the pedestal, for its starboard support aft. I can take a picture and email it to you next time I am at the boat. Eric sy melmar y <newsgroup@melmar.ch> wrote: thanks for replys. it looks to me that the folded down table takes ‚the whole weight’ on the stb side of the bed... ok. eric: just to get it right. the original pipe is affixed to the pedestal - the one in the middle through the „two inch hole“ or towards the seatinglocker on port side? marc, S/Y MELMAR Y, maramu #89 -----Original Message----- From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Eric Lindholm Sent: Donnerstag, 16. März 2006 21:27 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] double bed in salon on maramu On my Maramu the extended board rests on the lip of the seat forward, and a small pipe sticks out of the "two inch hole" in the table when it is folded down to support the other end aft. The original pipe is approx 1" diameter by 4" long and affixed to the pedestal. Eric 105 Horst Pause <horst@dpnsoftware.com> wrote: On my Maramu the folded out part of the double bed rests against the lip on the folded down table, which has worked quite well so far. Whilst I don't know whether this is the original feature, I have seen the same arrangement on other Maramus. Good luck with your rebuild. Horst, Maramu 185 ________________________________ From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of sy melmar y Sent: 16 March 2006 15:38 To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] double bed in salon on maramu hello i'm tying to reinstate some 'lost' original installations on our maramu. one of them being the double bed on port side in the salon. putting the second wooden board under the port bench board is the easy part. this one folds out toward the mid pedestal. fwd it lies on the short cross bench. on the aft side it must lie on something as well. is the about two inch hole in the down folded table the solution? could anybody show or explain the item which was originally installed for that purpose? thanks. marc, S/Y MELMAR Y, maramu #89
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Re: Anchor Chain
bobparry1947 <bob@...>
When we bought our SM in 2004, she came with 50m of 8mm chain. Last
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year, we bought a new gypsy from Amel but you should be able to get one from a Lofrans distributor as listed on their website or any Lofrans supplier. We now have 90m (we had ordered 100m) of 10mm short link hot dipped chain. Be aware that there are two sizes of short link so match the chain to the gypsy. We have an anchor swivel between the anchor and the chain. We don't have a problem with storing the chain in the chain locker and have not had any problems in that area. Nor is the weight a problem. We did find that the chain peeler was catching the chain as we brought it in. As we were not able to easily get a new one, we took it off. So far, that has worked well. Don't use rope near coral. Can't help with chain suppliers as our boat is in the Med and we are Australian. Bob and Ann Parry Nowornot SM#33
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "mike_ondra" <mondra@...> wrote:
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Muffler question
asm283 <no_reply@...>
Hi Joel
Thank you for the information. I will contact Olivier. I can get Vetus products here. Hows the 54. Vito ASM # 283 Wanderer --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Joel F. Potter" <jfpottercys@...> wrote:
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