They are in stock in Guadeloupe and budget marine throughout the Caribbean.
I bought a few 2 days ago.

Fair Winds,

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of sy_baracca
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 11:02 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Goiot Hatch handles



Several of the GOIOT hatch handles on our Santorin SN#41 need
replacing. Several have actually broken and been repaired by the
previous owner. Does any one in the group know where these can be
purchased seperately (most suppliers seem to only offer complete
hatches). I have sent an email to GOIOT but have so far received no
response. I see from their web site that they also offer aluminium
handles. Has any one seen or tried these?

hi,

I use a length of plastic PVC pipe works great same diameter works for the
packing on the rudder stock. I put a block of wood on it and hammer away.
works great.

Eric

Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drdavegoodman
Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2007 8:55 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] main engine prop seals



I have just changed the main engine prop seals with the bushing and
seals obtained from Amel. A special proper extractor tool or 3/way
puller was needed, which we fashioned in the yard I'm in (Independent
Boat Yard Marina on St. Thomas, USVI). When inserting the new seals,
we used a large cutlass bearing (large brass cylinder) that was about
the same outer diameter as the new seals to seat the new seals in
place. I wonder what others have used for this process of re-seating
the new seals.
Thanks
Dave

I also had two Goiot plastic handles break. I was able to order
replacements from:

Navimo USA, Inc.
7455 16th street East # 107
Sarasota, FL 34243
941.360.1888
941.360.1648 Fax
www.navimousa.com

They sent me a PDF of the catalog showing the part numbers for the
hatch handles. I have uploaded this "GOIOT TRADITION HATCH AND PORT
INFO" in the Files section.

Richard
SM #5 Spice



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "sy_baracca" <sy_baracca@...>
wrote:

Several of the GOIOT hatch handles on our Santorin SN#41 need
replacing. Several have actually broken and been repaired by the
previous owner. Does any one in the group know where these can be
purchased seperately (most suppliers seem to only offer complete
hatches). I have sent an email to GOIOT but have so far received no
response. I see from their web site that they also offer aluminium
handles. Has any one seen or tried these?

Richard

As promised, please find attached photos of the access ports I had
installed on my Super Maramu #88. You will notice that a total of four
(4) ports each about 9" X 12" were installed in the side of the tank. In
order to stop any leakage of diesel----rectangular !/4 "thick stainless
steel brackets were installed on the inside and outside edge of each
port and---with a gasket between--bolted together. Each inside bracket
was threaded to accept the mounting bolts. The base of each of these
ports were positioned about 12" from the base/bottom of the tank. The
sound deading material you see covers all the tank except the access
port bolts------this makes removal easy.
Hope this helps
Best
Jim Dernehl
Maramu #88 PAO-SAN.

________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Richard Piller
Sent: Saturday, September 15, 2007 11:34 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re:Maramu fuel tank



Jim, we did the job a bit different, We used a fuel
polishing guy to pump the tank a number of times to
clean things out. Once the tank was fully pumped we
took off the fuel lines prior to the fist fuel filter
and put some air pressue to the tank to blow out and
grim still in the lines. It work very well no longer
did we have an issue with bad fuel.

We also added a dual filter system to keep from having
prolbems underway should be a get a bad batch of
fuel..

Good luck and fair winds
Richard SM 209
--- Don Henderson <maramu48@yahoo.com <mailto:maramu48%40yahoo.com> >
wrote:

James,
Thanks for your comments. Can you describe the
size and positions of the baffles? Are they welded
to the sides and bottom? Are there limber holes at
the bottom corners, or is there a space between the
bottom edge of a baffle and the bottom of the tank?
thanks

Jim Dernehl <jim.dernehl@operatingtech.com

<mailto:jim.dernehl%40operatingtech.com> > wrote:

Jochen
You are correct, that the lack of access ports in
these well made
stainless steel tanks must be addressed at some
point on every boat.
Diesel will shed crud---living and dead---that must
be removed. I
addressed this issue on my Amel by having a series
of access ports cut
in the lower part of the tanks between each
baffle----about 4-5 ports
were cut. Each port is large enough to reach through
with a brush and
vacuum hose. The fellow who did the work for me
claimed to pull from the
tank about 12 gallons of crud accumulated over a 9
year period. Next
time I am at the boat, I will take some pictures and
send them on with
dimensions. It is very important to seal these ports
with gasket and
solid sections of stainless steel that will take the
normal strain of
sailing with out leaking.

James Dernehl
Maramu # 88 PAO-SAN

________________________________

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com> ] On Behalf

Of Jochen Hofmann
Sent: Monday, August 20, 2007 6:48 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com

<mailto:amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>

Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re:Maramu fuel tank

To the best of my knowledge this is one of the flaws
in the Maramu
design -
there isn't any.

We have the same issue on our Blue Song - so far
fortunately it hasn't
become an issue !

Has anyone had an inspection opening made for the
Maramu fuel tank ?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated !

Fair Winds,

Jochen Hofmann

Maramu # 143 Blue Song

[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been
removed]






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__________________________________________________________
Tonight's top picks. What will you watch tonight? Preview the hottest
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Goiot hatch handles (all Goiot hatch fittings) are available from
Accastillage Diffusion page 221 of their 2007 catalogue. Branches of
Accastillage Diffusion are throughout France & Spain or visit
www.accastillage-diffusion.com <http://www.accastillage-diffusion.com>


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "sy_baracca" <sy_baracca@...>
wrote:

Several of the GOIOT hatch handles on our Santorin SN#41 need
replacing. Several have actually broken and been repaired by the
previous owner. Does any one in the group know where these can be
purchased seperately (most suppliers seem to only offer complete
hatches). I have sent an email to GOIOT but have so far received no
response. I see from their web site that they also offer aluminium
handles. Has any one seen or tried these?

Several of the GOIOT hatch handles on our Santorin SN#41 need
replacing. Several have actually broken and been repaired by the
previous owner. Does any one in the group know where these can be
purchased seperately (most suppliers seem to only offer complete
hatches). I have sent an email to GOIOT but have so far received no
response. I see from their web site that they also offer aluminium
handles. Has any one seen or tried these?

Some owners switched to deep cycle golf cart
batteries. Can anyone comment on the 6V vs. 12V
choice, and is the Trojan T-105 a good choice.Also
please describe the layout in the compartment and the
carpentry change due to the batteries height dimension
and the cables connection scheme.

Michael Grunstein, SM2000 #345



____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better pen pal.
Text or chat with friends inside Yahoo! Mail. See how. http://overview.mail.yahoo.com/

I had the same problem with Goiot hatch handles breaking.
I bought replacement handles from Amel and I bought some at a chandlery in
Barcelona.

I emailed Goiot with no response. I do not believe that the aluminum handles
are available any longer.
Regards,

Voyageur SM # 373



************************************** See what's new at http://www.aol.com

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "kilkea_2" <kilkea2@...> wrote:

We have a problem with a split of the copper outflow pipe just where

it

joins the holding tank! It looks like a fault in the copper pipe and
the split is 5 to 10 mm. I think I could epoxy or use some liguid

metal

over the split then use some cloth and fiberglass to wrap the pipe

down

about 2cm on the copper.
The best way would be to remove the holding tank and have the whole
copper pipe replaced but do not know how to remove it. Does anyone

know

how this could be done?
Thanks in advance,
David

Thanks Dave and John I am trying the epoxy and glass route and will let
you know how it works!! Our boat is a 2005 model hull #466

Hi David
In May I purchased Amel SM #230. Both the aft and forward holding
tank copper intake pipes had similar splits as you describe. I
utilized a combination of epoxy putty and PVC pipe to create new
connections and have been monitoring them very carefully. So far, no
problems. I did contact Amel about this, was referred to the base in
Guadulupe as I am located in the Caribbean, and was told the cost for
replacing the holding tanks was about $5000 each.
Good Luck
Dave

David , The pipe has very little pressure, which means very little problem. Your repair job will work just fine. I did a temporary repair job on an exaust manifold with liquid steel,and it lasted 5 years. Please put your Amel year no. on your enquiry as all Amels are not exactly alike. John SM248 "Moondog"


To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.comFrom: kilkea2@hotmail.comDate: Thu, 15 Nov 2007 13:18:12 +0000Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Aft Holding tank




We have a problem with a split of the copper outflow pipe just where it joins the holding tank! It looks like a fault in the copper pipe and the split is 5 to 10 mm. I think I could epoxy or use some liguid metal over the split then use some cloth and fiberglass to wrap the pipe down about 2cm on the copper. The best way would be to remove the holding tank and have the whole copper pipe replaced but do not know how to remove it. Does anyone know how this could be done? Thanks in advance,David






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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Has anyone know of or has used the Yandina Hatch closer ( www.yandina.com)

Serge, Mango #51


---------------------------------
Devenez un meilleur amigo grâce à Yahoo! Courriel

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

We have a problem with a split of the copper outflow pipe just where it
joins the holding tank! It looks like a fault in the copper pipe and
the split is 5 to 10 mm. I think I could epoxy or use some liguid metal
over the split then use some cloth and fiberglass to wrap the pipe down
about 2cm on the copper.
The best way would be to remove the holding tank and have the whole
copper pipe replaced but do not know how to remove it. Does anyone know
how this could be done?
Thanks in advance,
David

Has anyone had any experience in cleaning out the fuel tank on a 1994
Santorin. If so I would appreciate any advice or suggestions. Their does
not appear to be any inspection panel or anyway of accessing the
interior other than through the filler tube.

Many thanks

Ken

Ocean Hobo Santorin #96

Try Bennett Bros in wilmington , NC. They are up the cape fear river and under two big bridges. They can do anything. You can call me in Wilm. 910-470-1225. There is another one in oriental NC called Deatons Boat yard. Very good. But bennett bros builds boats also. Call Patricia and use my name as reference. Murray Seidel. SM #349 Sundance. Enter the Cape Fear River from the Atlantic. First time in do in Daylight. I live in wilmington and haul out here.

Dave, Be sure to replace the rubber o-ring seal in the
new bushing. Second. Use the old bushing to push the
new seals in... be sure there are no burrs or bumps on
the old bushing... This makes sure that you get an
even push on the new seals and don't damage anything.
Good luck
Richard and Joan SM 209
--- drdavegoodman <drdavegoodman@gmail.com> wrote:

I have just changed the main engine prop seals with
the bushing and
seals obtained from Amel. A special proper
extractor tool or 3/way
puller was needed, which we fashioned in the yard
I'm in (Independent
Boat Yard Marina on St. Thomas, USVI). When
inserting the new seals,
we used a large cutlass bearing (large brass
cylinder) that was about
the same outer diameter as the new seals to seat the
new seals in
place. I wonder what others have used for this
process of re-seating
the new seals.
Thanks
Dave

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calll the corps of engineers navigation section and go with the charts. They are very helpful. Usually you can get under all the 65 foot bridges by waiting for low tide slack water, then wait on the other side 2houors to deepen the water. Murray seidel sm349 910-470-1225

The bridge at Snows Cut south of wrightsville beach, nc. can be navigated at dead low tide ( the tide time given for carolina beach inlet ( south of Masonboro inlet). I take my Sm #349 through frequently, but be prepared to pass caroline beach inlet 2hours earlier and anchor in entrance to the cul de sac leading to the town center of carolina beach. The docks on the south of snowns cut in the cul de sac are not deep enough for the 6.5 feet as the tide drops. Murray Seidel "sundance" . 910-470-1225. Also suggest going to the corps of engineer's office and taking charts and speaking with the navigation section people. They are very helpful.

Dave, Bel Ami,

My bowthruster has a small see-through reservoir mounted in the
port side cabinet in the V-birth with a feed tube down to the bowthruster.
It is easy to monitor the fluid level and add the 90 weight oil. The
reservoir holds about 0.3 liters.

Crash, WINDRUSH, Mango No. 29



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drdavegoodman
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 7:27 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Quantity of bowthruster oil



Greetings all;
I have the bowthruster out for changing oil and seals. I have gotten
conflicting info regard quantity of 90 weight oil to put in. One
source says .3 liters, the other source 3/4 quart, which is much more.
Any quick advice is appreciated!
Dave
s/v Bel Ami
SM #230

Dave

I use the old brass bush reversed.

Rob on Nebo SM251



From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of drdavegoodman
Sent: Sunday, 11 November 2007 12:55 AM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] main engine prop seals



I have just changed the main engine prop seals with the bushing and
seals obtained from Amel. A special proper extractor tool or 3/way
puller was needed, which we fashioned in the yard I'm in (Independent
Boat Yard Marina on St. Thomas, USVI). When inserting the new seals,
we used a large cutlass bearing (large brass cylinder) that was about
the same outer diameter as the new seals to seat the new seals in
place. I wonder what others have used for this process of re-seating
the new seals.
Thanks
Dave