Hi Ian,







Hope all is going well with you. I'm still struggling on with BA for the
last 6 months and then I'm not sure where I will go, just need to get enough
together for a new Amel.







Would you please remind me what the build number of your original Amel was?







Thanks







Mike

Hello,

This is all that I have, apart from some fotos.
Hope it can help.

Regards
JL

I am the owner of Kirk #97 and very much interested on information
on this boat. Is there any Amel Yacht Owner group member which has
information on the Kirk which is possible to share?

Thank you very much.

Rosario

I had similar problems removing my impellers. After skinning my
knuckles and destroying a serviceable impeller I did what I always do
in such situations, I fabricated a tool. I purchased a
small "ViceGrip" brand set of locking pliers, and then I welded two
pieces of 1.5 inch long stainless steel at right angles to the tip of
the pliers. I filed serrations into the "grabbers". It is hard to
describe but I will post a picture here tomorrow. You simply insert
the grabbers onto the impeller adjust the locking mechanism of the
ViceGrips so that they grasp the impeller and then using the handles
of the ViceGrips remove it. This requires only about 2.5 inches of
clearance and works equally well on the Yanmar impeller. It does
absolutely no damage to the impellers and works on various size
impellers. I now remove the impellers every 50 hours of operation to
inspect for missing pieces or wear.

If you wanted me to fabricate one of these items for you I could do
that. It would cost about US $35.00 including purchase of the
ViceGrips and the labor etc. I have loaned these to various fellow
boaters over the last year or two and they have all found them very
handy.

Regards, Gary Silver Liahona # 335

Dear Graham,

Try using two screw drivers, one top and one bottom, to wedge out the impeller. You don't have to get the tips behind it, just dig them into the rubber. Before putting in the new impeller, clean the shaft and coat it with Lanocoat (or plain anhydrous lanolin if you can't get Lanocoat) and the impeller will come out with much less effort next time! It is a bit of a hassle getting the new impeller in from that awkward angle.

Cheers,

Steve Leeds
Yacht MACCABEE
Sharki 121
Circumnavigator's Yacht Service
Hollywood, Florida



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Hi Graham,

I know what you mean! I have found it best to remove the entire pump to do
the job. As I am in London and Crusader is in Larnaca, I can only go from
memory.

I do remember that one of the pump attachment bolts is awkward to get at,
but with the right shaped ring spanner, it can be done.

I place this lousy design, as far as maintenance is concerned, on a par to
the horizontal oil filter on the Yanmar!

Good luck.

Ian Shepherd SM 414

Graham, I had the same proplem, I just bought a new pump and it was an easy job to replace the whole thing. Two bolts is all that holds it on. I now have a rebuilt pump ready to go. My way is a little more expensive, but it sure gives me piece of mind. If you insist on replacing just the impella you really have to take the whole pump off.
John "moondog" sm244

From: "Graham Boyd" <crwggb@...>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@...
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Onan generator raw water pump impeller removal
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2005 17:28:28 -0000


I am having a night-mare time trying to change the raw water impeller
on my 6.5 KW Onan generator. The problem is there is no front access
to the pump due to the large gen-set bolted on to the kubota engine.
So far,round the corner pliars have proved useless and of course
there is absolutely no room to get a "puller" into the space between
the geny and the pump. Before I go to the trouble of removing the
pump from the engine, has anyone any suggestions or a source for
miniature pullers to get the impeller out?

Graham Boyd
SM140 Sula

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

I am having a night-mare time trying to change the raw water impeller
on my 6.5 KW Onan generator. The problem is there is no front access
to the pump due to the large gen-set bolted on to the kubota engine.
So far,round the corner pliars have proved useless and of course
there is absolutely no room to get a "puller" into the space between
the geny and the pump. Before I go to the trouble of removing the
pump from the engine, has anyone any suggestions or a source for
miniature pullers to get the impeller out?

Graham Boyd
SM140 Sula

--- In amelyachtowners@..., "Patrick Naegels"
<naegels@t...> wrote:

Hi Rudy,

Could you transfer me a good picture of your "mini bar". I would

like to

post it on French Amel User Forum

Thank you

Patrick

-----Message d'origine-----
De : rzurkirchen2003 [mailto:r.zurkirchen@v...]
Envoyé : lundi 17 janvier 2005 17:19
À : amelyachtowners@...
Objet : [Amel Yacht Owners] Apero - Table in the Cockpit

Hi Patrick, I just have put the pictures in the Albums " Apero

Table"

it is all what I have right now.
By
Rudy

What a wonderful Extra

I was missing on my SM2000 a little place in the cockpit, where

I

could put some cups and bottles, when arrived in the port or for
the ankerdrink. I did not like to use the big table, as the

sitting

is not comfortable. Now I have it !
It is a small wooden plate, set with clips on the top of the

drivers-

seat. Simple but comfortable.
I made the table in such a way, that I can defold it and then get
double size ( approx. 60 x 40 cm ) , as an additional shelf to the
cockpit table. It is very useful to put pans and plates , and

still

having enough place on the cockpit table.
I put some pictures forward, to illustrate this little wonderful
Extra.

Rudy of SAMANTHA SM2000#407






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Hi Rudy,

Could you transfer me a good picture of your "mini bar". I would like to
post it on French Amel User Forum

Thank you

Patrick

What a wonderful Extra

I was missing on my SM2000 a little place in the cockpit, where I
could put some cups and bottles, when arrived in the port or for
the ankerdrink. I did not like to use the big table, as the sitting
is not comfortable. Now I have it !
It is a small wooden plate, set with clips on the top of the drivers-
seat. Simple but comfortable.
I made the table in such a way, that I can defold it and then get
double size ( approx. 60 x 40 cm ) , as an additional shelf to the
cockpit table. It is very useful to put pans and plates , and still
having enough place on the cockpit table.
I put some pictures forward, to illustrate this little wonderful
Extra.

Rudy of SAMANTHA SM2000#407

Gary said :
I had neglected to replace this seal on my toilet pump and at the
three-year mark one of my toilet pumps ceased to work. Disassembly
showed that the seal had failed, salt water had leaked around the
seal and past the slinger washer and entered the bearings of the
motor. NEW MOTOR NEEDED.

I had the same, and I recommend also to replace this little cheap seal
every 2 years.

Moreover, as we start a cruise around the world, we have two seals kit +
1 crusher motor + 1 flush motor as spare parts

Patrick (Caramel, SM2000 #329)

For sure Mr Jean Yves Selo at the factory will be able to help. Mr Selo knows
everything on Amels.
email: AMEL@...

============================================================
From: DENNIS STULLER <svcheechako@...>
Date: 2005/01/14 Fri AM 08:30:52 EST
To: amelyachtowners@...
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] 1985 MARAMU FURLING SYSTEM PROBLEMS


I HAVE RECENTLY PURCHASED A NEGLECTED 1985 MARAMU
WHICH HAS PROBLEMS WITH THE FURLING SYSTEM ON THE
MAIN.

AS NEAR AS I CAN TELL THE PROBLEM STARTED WITH A BOUND
UP BEARING AT THE TOP OF THE FURLER WHICH CAUSED THE
DRIVE SHAFT TO TWIST OFF INSIDE THE MAST JUST WHERE IT
GOES INTO THE BEVEL GEAR. I AM NOT SURE WHERE I SHOULD
GO OR WHOM I SHOULD CONTACT FOR SERVICE INFORMATION
AND PARTS FOR THIS BOAT.

DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY EXPERIENCE WITH PROBLEMS OF THIS
NATURE AND ANY ADVICE?

THANKS, DENNIS STULLER SVCHEECHAKO@...




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============================================================

Firstly a Happy New Year to All. I have over 120 messages backed up, so I am
going to attempt to add my thoughts briefly to the several topics that have
been raised.

Heaving to

I have done this many times in winds up to 50 kts. Steve Dashew wrote in CW
Magazine about the 'bald headed ketch'. He suggests main & mizzen sheeted in
hard with the rudder lashed amidships. It does work, but I found a better
angle by using only the mizzen with the rudder fully to windward. The angle
is not brilliant, but I found a small improvement by moving the mizzen
traveller fully to windward also.

Bow Thruster

Before sailing off again last summer I mentioned that Amel had modified the
bow thruster hub to exclude the smaller small nylon screws, replacing the 3
large and 3 small screws with 4 large screws. This is not correct. There are
in fact now 6 large screws. I had an occasion to test the new design when a
piece of fishing netting got wrapped behind the propeller hub. The change in
note of the thruster was immediately noticeable and I stopped using it, left
the marina, and anchored out to remove the netting with scuba gear, which
took a full half hour to do. The screws did not break and I did not lose the
propeller. It does seem that at last Amel have taken on board that the old
design was too fragile. Thank you.

Incidentally I now anchor with FULL mizzen sheeted hard amidships. This
stops the bow falling off when drifting backwards as the chain is paid out
before the anchor has dug in, without having to resort to using the bow
thruster to kick the bow back into wind in crowded anchorage's. Once
properly anchored, I furl the mizzen for a quiet night.

Prop Shaft Seals

Yes, these do need replacing. I had a failure after 800 hours with my first
SM2000, and an expensive haul out to enable me to replace them. I did meet
another SM owner in Trinidad some years ago who suggested that if the bronze
bush that the 3 lip seals mate onto were made of ceramic, the wear would be
negligible, both to the seals and the bush. If the transmission box oil can
be sucked out as suggested through the header tank pipe and then replaced
annually, then there might be a considerable advantage in getting a ceramic
boss manufactured.

Does anyone have any experience or knowledge of ceramics to help decide if
this would be worthwhile pursuing? If there were enough of us, then maybe it
would be cost effective to get a batch made up?

Prop Fouling

Before Amel re-launched Crusader, they painted the prop with anti-fouling.
It really did not last long at all. It is after all, ablative. What I have
done in the past is to coat the hub and blades with white lithium grease.
After 6 months, there was no growth at all, even in the Caribbean. I have
heard of others using STP long chain molecule oil additive. I would be
interested to hear if anyone has tried STP?

Water Makers

Following my tests on the Dessalator 150 l/h unit, I have so far found out
the following:

1/ The original Dessalator design used both a 2 minute timer, and a salinity
tester probe. The salinity probe had two functions. It was fitted to reduce
the 2 minute waiting period if the water was good and open the diverter
valve into the tank. It was also fitted to shut down the entire system if
salt water was detected following a membrane failure. It has been pointed
out that there will never normally be salt water on the output side of the
membranes, even within the 2 minute period, provided that the membranes are
not perforated by damage.

2/ The salinity probe should be wired into connectors 3 & 4 on the 12 way
connection strip at the top of the circuit board. As you know, my tests on
the salinity probe did not shut down the system. I have not been able to
inspect the board to date to see if the probe is connected, but I will do so
when I get back to Cyprus next week. I believe that the board is accessible
through the portside cockpit locker? I hope to soon have further information
on what has been done to the water makers and how we might reinstate full
protection if it is thought to be necessary.

Correct Wind Read Out

I had a discussion with B & G and they say that it is perfectly possible to
get the Hydra to read the correct magnetic or true wind using the NMEA 0183
v2.3 output from the autopilot computer. My 400G computer has two NMEA
outputs. I will try it and if it works, will post the details.

ARPA

Furuno make an ARPA collision alerting system for our 1832 radar at a
reasonable cost. The additional circuit board costs 210 Pounds and the
interface lead from the Furuno GP-80 GPS 13 Pounds. You do need a very
precise heading reference though. Raytheon say that if you have the 400G
computer with the gyro, then, provided you use the autopilot with a response
rate of 6 or higher, which switches the gyro on, then you will have a
heading reference within the required 0.5 of a degree. If you don't have the
400G computer, then you will have to fit a dedicated compass unit and the
cost will rise to about 800 Pounds.

The advantage of ARPA is that apart from displaying other vessels course,
speed and position, you can program a Closest Point of Approach (CPA) that
you are comfortable with. Anything less will trigger the an audible alarm.
This could be useful in reducing the number of alarms when sailing single
handed and relying on the radar to keep watch whilst you sleep. Often a
target will creep just inside your guard zone radius then out again setting
off the alarm unnecessarily. ARPA will enable you to only be disturbed when
a real threat exists. It will also help you with your radio call to an
approaching ship as you will be able to identify it's position, course and
speed precisely. I have ordered the parts and will let you know how well it
works.

Finally

I am happy to report that I sailed Crusader some 4500 nms last summer
without a single failure of any kind, other than a broken reading light lens
which I caught in the aft cabin mattress when lowering the bed lid.

Although the Med is hardly a severe test of a boat except in the occasional
Meltem or Bora, I am very pleased with the boat now.

Best Wishes

Ian Shepherd SM #414 Crusader
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Hi Joel:

Any further word on the water maker salinity sensor/solenoid
question? I am waiting with baited breath. I had previously
purchased an electronic device for measuring the purity of the
water. I was told that 250 ppm (parts per million) was good and my
water had been running about there for the last year. On the last
trip however it was up to 450 ppm. Granted we had been using more
marina water recently (filtered through an RV inline charcoal filter
as you, and others on this forum, had suggested). The charcoal
takes the chlorine out but I am not sure if it removes other ionic
solids.

Say hi to Vila,

Gary Silver

Thanks John:

I will check my weap holes. There was no part break-out for the
motor and it's bearings. I did not try disassembly. Is the bearing
something generic that you could get at a bearing supply house?

Thanks again for the info on the weap holes. I agree that there is
always something to be done on the boat.

Gary

Hi: I sent a reply already but it didn't show up for some reason.
I will try again.

Amel is able to provide technical support and parts for your boat.
If the parts needed are proprietary to Amel you will need to obtain
them from Amel. If you need contact information go to www.Amel.fr

My boat is currently located in Ft. Lauderdale and Ray Eaton
(Joel's/Amel's defacto service representative for that area) has
been very helpful. You may contact him at 954 583-8762 (voice) or
954 792-8883 (Fax).

Along this line, I recently noticed a very strange and loud grinding
noise coming from my main sail furling mechanism even though the
furling seemed to work ok. Ray Eaton investigated this for me. We
originally thought something had broken in the gearbox but what we
found was that the motor shaft had sheared off. The irregular ends
of the shaft still engaged each other so that the furling worked but
made a lot of noise. I have seen similar failures of motor shafts
on aircraft flap activation systems that are heavily loaded in
torsion. Ray indicated that he had not seen this failure mode
before. Ray obtained a new motor from Amel and after inspecting the
gearbox for damage installed the new motor.

One of the sales pitches that Jean-Jacques showed me at the Amel
factory was the fact that they keep on file all the data about each
boat they manufacture, including the equipment installed, so that
they can reference that information when providing replacement
parts.

My advice is to contact the factory. Unless you are fluent in
French, I have had the best luck faxing them with specific
questions/part numbers/boat serial numbers etc so that less is lost
in the translation. Amel has always been a pleasure to work.

Good luck, Gary Silver Amel SM # 335

Hi Gary,
I thought that I had posted my experience about a year ago but
cannot find it so I must have fouled up.On Bali Hai the forward pump
started leaking through the weepholes in the plastic moulding which
is between the motor and the W.C. pan.
There are two weepholes opposite each other and they should stop
water getting to the motor. BUT through bad assembly by the
manufacturers, I suppose, the holes on the forward pump were in the
horizontal plane so that they only let sea water leak out after the
housing was full up to that level thus corroding the motor and its
fixings etc..
The motor/housing on the aft toilet was correctly assembled with the
holes in the vertical plane so that any water getting past the seal
would leak out without doing any harm.
All owners should check to ensure that the holes are at the top and
bottom and if not take the thing off and move the housing through 90
degrees.
It is relatively easy to do this. I have enough other
jobs to do without changing the seals every year. We just keep an
eye on any leak which would signal that the seal should be changed.
Incidentally if the only damage was to the front bearing it would
have been better to have just had the bearing changed.

Happy New Year from Anne and John

NOTE: There is a typo in my previous message. The correct Part
Number for the currently available pump is PN 37072-0094.

I thought I would give a heads-up to those who have the Jabsco
Series 37245 Quite Flush Toilets on their boats. The service
information provided by Jabsco (in you Amel book with all the other
equipment manuals) says, "The toilet has no wearing parts that need
periodic replacement other than the shaft seal, which under normal
conditions, should provide several years of service before needing
replacement." The part about the shaft seal should have been in
bold print.

I had neglected to replace this seal on my toilet pump and at the
three-year mark one of my toilet pumps ceased to work. Disassembly
showed that the seal had failed, salt water had leaked around the
seal and past the slinger washer and entered the bearings of the
motor. NEW MOTOR NEEDED.

The motor used to come in 2 versions:
PN 37072-0024 (24 volt and US $119.88 from West Marine Special
Orders Desk)

OR

PN 37073-0094 (24 volt EMC, ?? electromagnetic European
certification, for US $174.99 from West Marine Special Orders Desk)

Jabsco has discontinued the -0024 version and only the more
expensive -0094 motor is available.

The 90197-0000 Service Kit contains the Joker Valve, some screws and
washers, the offending PN 1040-0000 seal that needs to be replaced,
and a new O-ring.

The seal was about US $4.85 and I plan on replacing it yearly from
now on as part of my on-going preventative maintenance.

Regards, Gary Silver SM #335