Date   

Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Washing machine bearings

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Ed,

Thats good news. Do you know what type of bolt holds the grill on. I
looked at this but my metric alen key did not fit

Regards
John
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Edmund Steele"
<edmundsteele@...> wrote:

John,
We had a problem with our Thompson machine on our year 2001 SM331.
If you have the same model as ours, what we found was:

To free the drum on the washing machine, you open the lid and you
will see a grill on the side of the machine towards the bow. Take
this grill off and you will probably find it is filled with sediment.
This you can remove by chipping out with a screwdriver. Next you
spray the bearing / seal inside with WD-40 from inside the drum.
After WD-40 treatment, you free the drum by carefully rocking of the
drum back and forth. You can do all of this without dismantling the
machine - as we did of course!
Good luck!
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug
www.sv-doodlebug.com

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge pump service

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Ed,

Thanks for your quick response. I understood everything you wrote
except for the part about the strum box.

Are you referring to the vacuum cleaner like attachment at the bottom
of the pipe going down into the bilge?

When I inspected this I found the following: It looks like there
should be a snap on filter/mesh over the end of the as there are
clips. On mine there is nothing clipped on, I guess whatever was once
there is now lying in the bottom of the bilge. If this attachment is
the strum box I can see no valve as such, however there is some kind
of very basic flap with slots in it, is this what you are referring
to?

Regards
John

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Edmund Steele"
<edmundsteele@...> wrote:

John,
You can remove the cover of the bilge pump, while it is still
attached to the bulkhead. It faces to the port side and is held in
place with Phillips headed screws. There are two rubber flapper
valves inside, that are held in place with two each of tiny Phillips
headed screws. First cycle the pump (the float switch is within easy
reach and you operate it manually) to make sure that the motor is
working and the diaphragm reciprocates. You then cycle the pump so
that the diaphragm is away from the valves to give you more
clearance. You can unscrew the tiny screws and either invert the
rubber flapper valves or replace them. I have used a quarter inch
socket to hold a Phillips screwdriver bit and then used this to
loosen the two Phillips screws. After they start moving you can
probably fit a jeweler's screwdriver in to unscrew them the rest of
the way. Don't drop any pieces in the bilge!!! Also check that the
valve in the strum box is working. There is a replacement valve in
the rebuild kit and they are easy to replace. You just pull the hose
up out of the bilge and take the snap-off cover off the strum box to
access it. I have done all of these operations while at sea but I can
guarantee the flapper valve replacement is easier at the dock.
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug
www.sv-doodelbug.com



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Bilge pump service

edmund_steele
 

John,
You can remove the cover of the bilge pump, while it is still attached to the bulkhead. It faces to the port side and is held in place with Phillips headed screws. There are two rubber flapper valves inside, that are held in place with two each of tiny Phillips headed screws. First cycle the pump (the float switch is within easy reach and you operate it manually) to make sure that the motor is working and the diaphragm reciprocates. You then cycle the pump so that the diaphragm is away from the valves to give you more clearance. You can unscrew the tiny screws and either invert the rubber flapper valves or replace them. I have used a quarter inch socket to hold a Phillips screwdriver bit and then used this to loosen the two Phillips screws. After they start moving you can probably fit a jeweler's screwdriver in to unscrew them the rest of the way. Don't drop any pieces in the bilge!!! Also check that the valve in the strum box is working. There is a replacement valve in the rebuild kit and they are easy to replace. You just pull the hose up out of the bilge and take the snap-off cover off the strum box to access it. I have done all of these operations while at sea but I can guarantee the flapper valve replacement is easier at the dock.
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug
www.sv-doodelbug.com


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Washing machine bearings

edmund_steele
 

John,
We had a problem with our Thompson machine on our year 2001 SM331. If you have the same model as ours, what we found was:

To free the drum on the washing machine, you open the lid and you will see a grill on the side of the machine towards the bow. Take this grill off and you will probably find it is filled with sediment. This you can remove by chipping out with a screwdriver. Next you spray the bearing / seal inside with WD-40 from inside the drum. After WD-40 treatment, you free the drum by carefully rocking of the drum back and forth. You can do all of this without dismantling the machine - as we did of course!
Good luck!
Ed Steele
SV DoodleBug
www.sv-doodlebug.com


Cleaning engine room and faux teak decks

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

Having just purchased my 2003 Super Maramu, I would like to give the
whole engine room and everything in it a clean and also give it some
sort of protection against futher corrosion.

Could anybody recommend some metal/fiberglass cleaners that can be used
to remove rust/oxidisation/grease/staining etc without damaging the
surface. Also what can be used to protect the surfaces once they are
clean.

Also during a conversation with Joel Potter he mentioned that there is
a cleaning product that is particularly good at cleaning and restoring
the faux teak decks. And again once clean at sealing them against sun
fade. Could anybody recommend particular products for this?

Regards
John Abercrombie
sm2003


Protecting Mahogany surfaces

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

During the process of selecting an Amel to purchase I viewed serveral
that had protected the horizontal mahogany surfaces with a quite thick
clear vinyl/silicon sheet.

The material adheared very well to the surface but was not actualy
stuck on and provided great protection.

When looking for this product, the closest I can find is simply a clear
vinyl that is only held in place by "static cling"

Does anybody know where I can buy a thicker clear sheet that clings to
the surface better?

Regards
John Abercrombie
SM2003


Washing machine bearings

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

It is not possible to rotate the drum of my Thomson washing machine
both when it is powered off and on. When I try and run the machine it
stops and the change filter light flashes.

Having searched the archives I believe that the drum bearings are
frozen. Should it be possible to rotate the drum by hand when the
machine is both off and on?

I know that I can remove the corner panel to access the machine. My
question is how much of the machine has to be stripped down to access
the bearings. Also if it is dead, is it possible to get a replacement
machine and at what cost?

Regards
John Abercrombie
SM2003


Bilge pump service

johnabo2003 <no_reply@...>
 

My electric bilge pump is running but not pumping water. After
searching the archives I have concluded that I need to take the pump
portion appart in order to clean and possible replace the pump valves.

Do I need to remove the whole mechanisim from the bulkhead and service
the pump on a workbench or can the work be done by removing the
plate/cover and working on the pump valves and diaphram while it is
still bolted to the bulkhead?

Regards
John Abercrombie
SM2003


Maramu electric roller system question

Jim <bocarico@...>
 

I have a 1985 Maramu with electric roller furling on both main and
headsail. Unlike more recent models, there is no obvious way to
disconnect the motors and be able to manually operate the rollers in
the event of an electrical power failure. I have never had such a
failure, but would like to know just how to go about reducing sail in
a blow if the power had gone down. Amel via email has been
unresponsive to my question.
Thank you for whatever assistance you may be able to offer.
Jim


Quantity of Polytrol (Penetrol) required to treat decks

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Hi Roy:

I just re-read your post on painting the deck stripes in
preparation to doing my decks. I have been able to
purchase some Penetrol (the US equivalent of Polytrol)
from Budget Marine in Antigua. How much did it take to
treat the decks? Did you also treat the white cabin tops?
If so how much did it take to do that? Do you use the
Polytrol on other areas of you fiberglass? Finally, how
is your re-striping job holding up, and would you do
anything differently in hind-sight?

Thanks for the follow-up.

Gary Silver, s/v Liahona SM 2000 Hull # 335
Jolly Harbor, Antigua


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mango 46 vs. Mango 48.5

william klein <sidecar1@...>
 

My boat is currently in the Hudson River 30 mi north of New York City - In Haverstraw New York. The boat is a 1981 and is mechanically sound. We updated the elctronics a couple of years back. It has radar, weatherfax, two VHF radios, Icom SSB, autopilot, watermaker, genset etc. The Perkins diesel has approx 2500 hrs so there are many more left. The genset engine was rebuilt 20hrs ago. The sails are usable for more seasons, but are not recent. If you e-mail me at sidecar1@verizon.net if will send you my phone number so that we may talk.

----- Original Message -----
From: Howard Berger
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2007 11:53 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mango 46 vs. Mango 48.5


Hi, Bill. Where's your boat located? Could you send me the details:
@ svresolute@hotmail.com.

Thanks,
Howard
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "billklein48" <sidecar1@...>
wrote:
>
> I don't have info on the Mango, But I have a Maramu for sale and I do
> have the specs available for this. Bill Klein
>
> --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Berger"
> <svresolute@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Berger"
> > <svresolute@> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hello, everyone, my name is Howard Berger. I'm new to the
> group. My
> > > wife Lynda and I haved looked at a Maramu 46 (the best open
> cockpit
> > > I've ever seen in a boat) which we're considering purchasing, but
> I've
> > > just become aware that Amel also produced this model as
> a "48.5". The
> > > Amel site only lists the specs for the 46.
> > >
> > > Could someone please tell me what the differences are between the
> two?
> > > I assume they added length in the ends, but did they increase the
> > > beam as well?
> > >
> > > Best regards,
> > > HB
> > >
> > Hello, again.
> >
> > Sorry for the confusion in the Subject line. I meant Maraumu, not
> > Mango. And looking through prior posts, it appears that the 46 and
> > the 48 are the same size (13.8 meters).
> >
> > I wonder where the "48" moniker came from. Possibly LOA, including
> > bow rollers.
> >
>


Re: Mango 46 vs. Mango 48.5

Howard Berger
 

Hi, Bill. Where's your boat located? Could you send me the details:
@ svresolute@hotmail.com.

Thanks,
Howard
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "billklein48" <sidecar1@...>
wrote:

I don't have info on the Mango, But I have a Maramu for sale and I do
have the specs available for this. Bill Klein

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Berger"
<svresolute@> wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Berger"
<svresolute@> wrote:

Hello, everyone, my name is Howard Berger. I'm new to the
group. My
wife Lynda and I haved looked at a Maramu 46 (the best open
cockpit
I've ever seen in a boat) which we're considering purchasing, but
I've
just become aware that Amel also produced this model as
a "48.5". The
Amel site only lists the specs for the 46.

Could someone please tell me what the differences are between the
two?
I assume they added length in the ends, but did they increase the
beam as well?

Best regards,
HB
Hello, again.

Sorry for the confusion in the Subject line. I meant Maraumu, not
Mango. And looking through prior posts, it appears that the 46 and
the 48 are the same size (13.8 meters).

I wonder where the "48" moniker came from. Possibly LOA, including
bow rollers.


Re: Mango 46 vs. Mango 48.5

billklein48 <sidecar1@...>
 

I don't have info on the Mango, But I have a Maramu for sale and I do
have the specs available for this. Bill Klein

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Berger"
<svresolute@...> wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Berger"
<svresolute@> wrote:

Hello, everyone, my name is Howard Berger. I'm new to the
group. My
wife Lynda and I haved looked at a Maramu 46 (the best open
cockpit
I've ever seen in a boat) which we're considering purchasing, but
I've
just become aware that Amel also produced this model as
a "48.5". The
Amel site only lists the specs for the 46.

Could someone please tell me what the differences are between the
two?
I assume they added length in the ends, but did they increase the
beam as well?

Best regards,
HB
Hello, again.

Sorry for the confusion in the Subject line. I meant Maraumu, not
Mango. And looking through prior posts, it appears that the 46 and
the 48 are the same size (13.8 meters).

I wonder where the "48" moniker came from. Possibly LOA, including
bow rollers.


Re: Mango 46 vs. Mango 48.5

Howard Berger
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Howard Berger"
<svresolute@...> wrote:

Hello, everyone, my name is Howard Berger. I'm new to the group. My
wife Lynda and I haved looked at a Maramu 46 (the best open cockpit
I've ever seen in a boat) which we're considering purchasing, but I've
just become aware that Amel also produced this model as a "48.5". The
Amel site only lists the specs for the 46.

Could someone please tell me what the differences are between the two?
I assume they added length in the ends, but did they increase the
beam as well?

Best regards,
HB
Hello, again.

Sorry for the confusion in the Subject line. I meant Maraumu, not
Mango. And looking through prior posts, it appears that the 46 and
the 48 are the same size (13.8 meters).

I wonder where the "48" moniker came from. Possibly LOA, including
bow rollers.


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Mango 46 vs. Mango 48.5

dlm48@...
 

I think you will find that about 20/25 years ago French boats changed to
using LOA in their model number previously it was i think LOD. So to compete in
a market where every last inch was measured to turn a 40 footer into a 43
footer the French boat manufacturers started to play the same game. Failing to
do this would have made their boats look both expensive and small. One boat
i know quite well a Beneteau First 38 was in fact 41 foot long.

regards

David


Mango 46 vs. Mango 48.5

Howard Berger
 

Hello, everyone, my name is Howard Berger. I'm new to the group. My
wife Lynda and I haved looked at a Maramu 46 (the best open cockpit
I've ever seen in a boat) which we're considering purchasing, but I've
just become aware that Amel also produced this model as a "48.5". The
Amel site only lists the specs for the 46.

Could someone please tell me what the differences are between the two?
I assume they added length in the ends, but did they increase the
beam as well?

Best regards,
HB


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Vanity in Aft Cabin

Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
 

Hi John & Anne

Thanks for the response. When we bought Zorba the vanity had been
removed in order to widen the bed, which made the cabin quite
unusable in the sense of room to move around, access storage and put
stuff down on a surface. I've paid good money to have a mattress made
to original size, piece together the rescued remains of the vanity,
and side cushions re-made to fit around the side between it and the
mattress and it's looking very pretty compared to what we had before.
So we use the vanity to put down our cup of tea (on a mat of course)
and alarm clock, and we push our soft travel bags right underneath
while placing our shoes of various kinds immediately below. For me,
having yearned to have it back and having just achieved that aim, I
couldn't see the advantage of installing a chest of drawers.

Whatever you do carry out for your own convenience, may I suggest you
leave open the option for future owners of restoring to original. As
you have No 1, maybe it should be as original as possible. Amels are
such fine boats, nutty buyers like me don't necessarily appreciate
people's efforts to improve the layout, especially when a saw is
involved. It's your boat though. Good luck.

Regards, Roger, Mango 28, Zorba

On 29/01/2007, at 3:45 AM, anniemno1 wrote:

Roger,

The vanity is the kneehole desk with mirror and stool.

John and anne
Annie M
Mango #1



Vanity in Aft Cabin

anniemno1 <no_reply@...>
 

Roger,

The vanity is the kneehole desk with mirror and stool.

John and anne
Annie M
Mango #1


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Vanity in Master Cabin

Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
 

Hi John & Anne

Which piece of the owner's cabin are you calling the "vanity"?

Regards, Roger
Message from Roger Banks
Mobile: 0407 91 4601
Home: +61 2 6291 4601

On 28/01/2007, at 9:48 AM, anniemno1 wrote:

We are restoring Mango #1 and Anne suggested that she would like to
convert the vanity in the master to a chest of drawers.

Would appreciate input as to how often the vanity is actually used.

Best Regards,

John and Anne
Annie M
Mango #1



Vanity in Master Cabin

anniemno1 <no_reply@...>
 

We are restoring Mango #1 and Anne suggested that she would like to
convert the vanity in the master to a chest of drawers.

Would appreciate input as to how often the vanity is actually used.

Best Regards,

John and Anne
Annie M
Mango #1