Hello All,
Just a thought...I did not have a spare wearing ring and so I had a
local machine shop make one up using the old one as a pattern
(omitting the worn bit!). New lip seals were off the shelf from a shop
selling bearings. Simple and quick and no DHL costs.

Best wishes, Anne and John, SM 319

Vito,
I understand you ran into my friends Ian and Judy Jenkins.
Where are you now?
Lucia is getting married in April.
Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

Hello

The wearing bearing that is causing your problem is a service item.
All Amel owners should take note that this item should be changed
every 800 hours. Its an easy job that any qualified mechanic can
handle. As to the amount of time that you wait, keep in mind that
salt water has entered your gear box. Obviously not a good situation.

Sincererly

Vito Ciaravino
S/V Wanderer


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Rudolf Zelenka"
<rudolf.zelenka@...> wrote:

Hi Dimitris:



Did you change the rings under water?



I suppose you are Greek. I have a house on the southern end of the

Pilion,

near Platanias. Are you sometimes in this vicinity?



Kind regards,



Rudi



_____

Von: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] Im Auftrag von

Krassopoulos

Dimitris
Gesendet: Freitag, 10. Februar 2006 09:50
An: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Betreff: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel drive leaking at propeller

shaft, SM

116,



I had the same problem once. The solution is to change the rings

in the

shaft by removing the propeller. The advise I got from Amel at

that time is

that as the level is not very high there is no problem but they

advised to

empty as much as possible the oil/water mix and put some fresh

oil. You can

remove the mix with a pump from the plastic bowl.







Dimitris Krassopoulos

SM 2000 Alma Libre
















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Hi Dimitris:



Did you change the rings under water?



I suppose you are Greek. I have a house on the southern end of the Pilion,
near Platanias. Are you sometimes in this vicinity?



Kind regards,



Rudi



_____

Von: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] Im Auftrag von Krassopoulos
Dimitris
Gesendet: Freitag, 10. Februar 2006 09:50
An: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Betreff: RE: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel drive leaking at propeller shaft, SM
116,



I had the same problem once. The solution is to change the rings in the
shaft by removing the propeller. The advise I got from Amel at that time is
that as the level is not very high there is no problem but they advised to
empty as much as possible the oil/water mix and put some fresh oil. You can
remove the mix with a pump from the plastic bowl.







Dimitris Krassopoulos

SM 2000 Alma Libre
















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_____

Rudi, No problem! Mine did the same thing and I didn't change the bearings until 4 months later. If you visited the factory in France you would have seen the cutout of the gears in the propeller drive,they are really well built. Hell, I drove a ford with a v8 engine and a cracked block for 6 months. I had to add water to the radiator every week,and change the oil once a month because the oil-water mix would be way up on the dip stick. I would think in your case that a little water is leaking in,but not much because it hasn't risen much in the overflow so it must be very little. If you were losing oil, then the problem would be easier,just keep adding oil.

John 'Moondog' SM248

From: "rudi_zel" <rudolf.zelenka@chello.at>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Amel drive leaking at propeller shaft, SM 116,
Date: Fri, 10 Feb 2006 07:22:02 -0000

I get water into the Amel drive at the shaft seal near the propeller.
As I am now in a position where I can not take the boat out of the
water (Bocas del Toro, Panama)I am looking for advise. The overflow
container shows white oil (sort of mayonese), but the level did not
rise much (yet). Will the Amel drive survive another 40 hrs?
Rudi Zelenka,

_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

I had the same problem once. The solution is to change the rings in the
shaft by removing the propeller. The advise I got from Amel at that time is
that as the level is not very high there is no problem but they advised to
empty as much as possible the oil/water mix and put some fresh oil. You can
remove the mix with a pump from the plastic bowl.







Dimitris Krassopoulos

SM 2000 Alma Libre

I get water into the Amel drive at the shaft seal near the propeller.
As I am now in a position where I can not take the boat out of the
water (Bocas del Toro, Panama)I am looking for advise. The overflow
container shows white oil (sort of mayonese), but the level did not
rise much (yet). Will the Amel drive survive another 40 hrs?
Rudi Zelenka,

A bit more science--I should have written circumference instead of diameter in my last note. Plus, having now done a more exact measurement, the circumference of the green prt of the coupling moves half a centimeter ( not one centimeter) before the shaft in the gear box engages.
Is this amount of play to be expected?
Any answers gratefully recived. cheers, Ian.

My Volvo has now done just under 2000 hours. Having heard of another SM whose coupling between the gearbox and the Amel leg worked loose I was checking mine manually, with the engine obviously stopped.The coupling ,the circular green /stainless ring, was completely firm. However, I noticed some play in my gearbox and ask if this is to be expected.
The way the play shows itself is that when I turn the coupling with my hand ( whether in gear ahead or astern) the outside diameter of the green part moves about one centimeter before the gearbox engages, with a slight klonk . It may be that this is the normal play in the gearbox but I am not aware of having experienced it before. Anyone know the answer?
As luck would have it our next port in Brazil is Santos, not everyones choice of a cruising destination, but the one Brazilian I knew from before our arrival here has had the Volvo Penta agency for Brazil for the last 25 years, so I guess he will know the answer if noone else does.
Fair winds, Ian and Judy Jenkins, Pen Azen, SM 302, Paranagua, Brazil

The size of the battery box for Super Maramu 200 , see my drawing. The maximum height for 11 batteries is 255 mm and for the other two I guess 30 mm less.
Best regards
Bengt
long 1660 wide 550 155 155 70 70 Batteribox

PFM53 <pfm53@usa.net> skrev: I need to order baterries for my 1995 SM, but I am not physically at the boat.
I need to know if anyone knows the standard size of the battery compartment
on the SM. If anyone has those dimensions, I would be very appreciative of
their input

Jerry
PFM #133





Yahoo! Groups Links

Hi Jerry,

I am quite sure that Amel put 12 V 105AH deep cycle Delphi Voyager batteries in your SM.. The old brand name was AC-Delco.
Dimensions of these batteries (l x b x h): 330 x 175 x 247 mm. (lead-calcium-type)

Two years ago a new brand came on the market (for sure in the UK, the Netherlands, Germany and France) with the same specifications and dimensions, but a little bit less expensive: VMF Green System type VDC 31 M: 12V 105AH deep cycle batteries with double posts (also for wing nuts). It is said that these batteries (manufactured in S. Korea) are of the same good quality as the Delphis.

You can visit the links of two dealers in the Netherlands:
http://www.georgekniest.nl/ http://www.dekkerwatersport.nl/
(Choose from the left side menu: "stroom aan boord" and next: "accu's").

I am in the process of buying 4 of these batteries myself for my Amel Santorin at the moment in dry dock in Sardinia in Italy. I have not found dealers of either make in Italy, so I am trying to find a way of shipping these batteries from the Netherlands to Sardinia.

Best regards,

Willem J. Kroes
Amel Santorin "Kavanga"

Robin,
I suspect builders have traditionally used hose to protect against
vibration and it may be quicker to install during construction. Plus
they don't have to worry about us poor buggers having to replace it
every few years!
I believe the flexible couplings I used are a relatively new product
and that removes the vibration issue. PVC has been the US household
standard for many years and its total impermeability means no odor,
ever.
Regards, Craig

When Amel instals the tank, the cover panel is cut in half vertically
and the rear portion is fitted with screws (7 I believe). The tank is
only in the rear half of the locker, above the shelf. To get access to
the tank you just have to remove the little cabinet and the wood towels
bars, and then the panel comes easily. The tank is fiberglassed to the
hull. It is only about 10 gallons or so.
The vent is done through the cap on the deck and through the exit hole
when the valve is open. Actually, it is only a small hole in the cap,
but it seems to work since I visited it last summer, and it is fairly
clean (if I can say that), with no bacteria growth. Very easy to rinse
too.
Actually I had a pump go bad, and it is true that when you open, all
what is in the big white pipe dumps into the shower tank. But
fortunately, you have the shower...
George, Santorin #132 Greenlight




On Feb 6, 2006, at 5:30 PM, Robin Cooter wrote:

The structural integrity is a valid point.   When AMEL retro fit their
tank to a Santorin they only use the after top section of the heads
lockers (for’d), and do not remove the centre partition as I have done
to fit a larger tank.   My question to anyone who has had a reto
fitted tank in a Santorin is “does AMEL fibreglass the face panel (the
for and aft panel that covers the lockers) back in place?”   If they
do I don’t see how you can replace all the pipework.   You can replace
the outlet pipe easily enough but I don’t see how you get to the inlet
pipe and, if ever necessary, the pump out pipe and if they don’t then
they must feel that the strength generated is not absolutely necessary
– can anybody explain?
  
  A factor that worries me if the apparent lack of a ventilation pipe
to the tank.   All my reading, and advice from manufacturers states
that you need air circulation in the tank to keep bacteria down and
reduce smell.   Does AMEL really not have a air vent pipe?
  
  From experience I do like the simplicity of the straight through
system where the heads can flush straight to sea and can be held in
the holding tank in port by use of one valve.  Only the heads pump to
go wrong!
  
  I’m a bit puzzled by the use of PVC pipe.   We spend a great deal
of money fitting odour proof piping so why doesn’t the odour penetrate
the PVC, and if it doesn’t why do the builder fit expensive pipe?
  
  Robin


Craig & Katherine <sangaris@aol.com> wrote:  Ken -
  A prior owner of our boat, "Sangaris" (Hull#68-1992), did an
installation similar to Robin's except the full wall panel was
removed so that after the tank was installed on the middle shelf and
the full original panel put back in place it kept the original
appearance.  You can't get to the tank without some dissembly, but
not a problem so far.
  Unfortunately, you loose storage space and destroy the monocoque
structure Amel intended by having the full panel bonded in place. I
think a better solution would be a Raritan Saniflush/holding tank
combo installed under the towel rack next to the toilet, with some
finish paneling over it for appearance sake. It would give you easy
maintenance access and avoid the downside of cutting out the panel.
Plus that space is only handy for hanging towels - you could stil
have a foot or so above the unit. You could also nudge it a bit under
the sink.
  By the way, I replaced all the hose with PVC piping and flexible
rubber couplings to the thruhull, toilet, tank & Y-valve. It works
great, is easier to work with than hose and NEVER smells.  I run
muriatic acid through it periodically to disolve salt buildup -
(which works with hose, too.)
Good luck,
  Craig Briggs

- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
wrote:
>
> When we purchased our boat (Santorin 004) we knew that we would
have to fit holding tanks as we were going to the U.S.   A friend ...
had to cut the fibreglass tape holding the front panel on and then
cut away the centre partition before fitting the tanks. ....  
>   Robin Cooter  
>
> oceanhobo1 <ken@...> wrote:  We want to install holding tanks in
our 1998 Santorin....> Has anyone had this done?.  We would
appreciate any information on how
> and best place to fit them....
> Regards

> Ken on OceanHobo1







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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I looked near the tanks on the hull and couldn't find anything.
Thanks
Eric
Fair Winds,
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

I can't answer your question but if they are fitted they should go though the upper part of the hull near the tank and will probably have a metal shield covering the outlet.

Robin



eric <kimberlite@optonline.net> wrote:
Hi,
I have hull #376.
I was wondering where the vents for the holding tanks are located.

Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite





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Hi,
I have hull #376.
I was wondering where the vents for the holding tanks are located.

Fair Winds,
Eric
Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite

The structural integrity is a valid point. When AMEL retro fit their tank to a Santorin they only use the after top section of the heads lockers (for’d), and do not remove the centre partition as I have done to fit a larger tank. My question to anyone who has had a reto fitted tank in a Santorin is “does AMEL fibreglass the face panel (the for and aft panel that covers the lockers) back in place?” If they do I don’t see how you can replace all the pipework. You can replace the outlet pipe easily enough but I don’t see how you get to the inlet pipe and, if ever necessary, the pump out pipe and if they don’t then they must feel that the strength generated is not absolutely necessary – can anybody explain?

A factor that worries me if the apparent lack of a ventilation pipe to the tank. All my reading, and advice from manufacturers states that you need air circulation in the tank to keep bacteria down and reduce smell. Does AMEL really not have a air vent pipe?

From experience I do like the simplicity of the straight through system where the heads can flush straight to sea and can be held in the holding tank in port by use of one valve. Only the heads pump to go wrong!

I’m a bit puzzled by the use of PVC pipe. We spend a great deal of money fitting odour proof piping so why doesn’t the odour penetrate the PVC, and if it doesn’t why do the builder fit expensive pipe?

Robin


Craig & Katherine <sangaris@aol.com> wrote: Ken -
A prior owner of our boat, "Sangaris" (Hull#68-1992), did an
installation similar to Robin's except the full wall panel was
removed so that after the tank was installed on the middle shelf and
the full original panel put back in place it kept the original
appearance. You can't get to the tank without some dissembly, but
not a problem so far.
Unfortunately, you loose storage space and destroy the monocoque
structure Amel intended by having the full panel bonded in place. I
think a better solution would be a Raritan Saniflush/holding tank
combo installed under the towel rack next to the toilet, with some
finish paneling over it for appearance sake. It would give you easy
maintenance access and avoid the downside of cutting out the panel.
Plus that space is only handy for hanging towels - you could stil
have a foot or so above the unit. You could also nudge it a bit under
the sink.
By the way, I replaced all the hose with PVC piping and flexible
rubber couplings to the thruhull, toilet, tank & Y-valve. It works
great, is easier to work with than hose and NEVER smells. I run
muriatic acid through it periodically to disolve salt buildup -
(which works with hose, too.)
Good luck,
Craig Briggs

- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
wrote:

When we purchased our boat (Santorin 004) we knew that we would

have to fit holding tanks as we were going to the U.S. A friend ...
had to cut the fibreglass tape holding the front panel on and then
cut away the centre partition before fitting the tanks. ....

Robin Cooter

oceanhobo1 <ken@...> wrote: We want to install holding tanks in

our 1998 Santorin....> Has anyone had this done?. We would
appreciate any information on how

and best place to fit them....
Regards

Ken on OceanHobo1

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[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ken -
A prior owner of our boat, "Sangaris" (Hull#68-1992), did an
installation similar to Robin's except the full wall panel was
removed so that after the tank was installed on the middle shelf and
the full original panel put back in place it kept the original
appearance. You can't get to the tank without some dissembly, but
not a problem so far.
Unfortunately, you loose storage space and destroy the monocoque
structure Amel intended by having the full panel bonded in place. I
think a better solution would be a Raritan Saniflush/holding tank
combo installed under the towel rack next to the toilet, with some
finish paneling over it for appearance sake. It would give you easy
maintenance access and avoid the downside of cutting out the panel.
Plus that space is only handy for hanging towels - you could stil
have a foot or so above the unit. You could also nudge it a bit under
the sink.
By the way, I replaced all the hose with PVC piping and flexible
rubber couplings to the thruhull, toilet, tank & Y-valve. It works
great, is easier to work with than hose and NEVER smells. I run
muriatic acid through it periodically to disolve salt buildup -
(which works with hose, too.)
Good luck,
Craig Briggs

- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, Robin Cooter <robincooter@...>
wrote:

When we purchased our boat (Santorin 004) we knew that we would

have to fit holding tanks as we were going to the U.S. A friend ...
had to cut the fibreglass tape holding the front panel on and then
cut away the centre partition before fitting the tanks. ....

Robin Cooter

oceanhobo1 <ken@...> wrote: We want to install holding tanks in

our 1998 Santorin....> Has anyone had this done?. We would
appreciate any information on how

and best place to fit them....
Regards

Ken on OceanHobo1

Hello Robin,
I do not know how old your Santorin is but I do know that the linear
drive that I bought about 14 or 15 years ago was made by a British
company called Klaxon in Luton (I guess they used to make car hooters
about 80 years ago). By 1997 or 8 when the brushes went
Raymarine/Autohelm had switched to another manufacturer...we were in
Fiji and Raymarine UK told me that they had switched but failed to
give me an address or fax no. You could try contacting Raymarine UK
giving them the serial no of your drive and ask them for all the
contact details. You should also open up the end of the drive to see
whether the gears are metal or plastic as the latter have a life of
about 12-15,000 miles and are a vital spare...they used to cost £12.50
for the plastic and £125.00 for the metal ones now used by Amel.
Let us know how you get on.

Good luck, Anne and John, SM319

Would be very appreciative if you could let me have name and/or address, phone number and E-mail of the firm you got the brushes from

caramel02uk <pjn.mccallin@jerseymail.co.uk> wrote: whilst in Trinidad I went to the Raymarine agent and asked that he get
me a set of brushes for my Type 2 linier drive motor. I work on the
basis that if I have a spare the unit will never need it!!
Guess what Raymarine USA Michael.J.Warren@raymarine.com advised
brushes cannot be supplied, his alternative was to sell me a complete
new motor. I was under the impression supplies of spares had to be
offered for 10 years after withdralal of an item but I could be wrong
on this.
I tracked down the motor manufacturer who is based in GWYNEDD Wales and
for GBP18 I got 4 brushes sent to me.






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