Re: Speed vs. RPM
Judy Rouse <judyrouse@...>
Tony,
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Did you have the fuel tank cleaned and fuel polished in BVI or elsewhere? Our boat is also currently lying in BVI and we would like to do the same. We won't be back down there until May. Will try to stop by Trellis Bay & share that Sundowner and conversation before we head south. Thanks, Judy S/V Security SM2 #387
-----Original Message-----
From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com [mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of agav8ter Sent: Monday, March 06, 2006 4:34 PM To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Speed vs. RPM Hello Gary, What a good idea! Of course I would start bt reaing the engine down only to fine the fuel shut off valve half closed!!! I am in Paramaribo, Suriname at the moment, but will return to Tortola in a few days, and will certainly check it out. I did have the tank cleaned and fuel polished right after I bought the boat, so your suggestion would be an easy fix! BTW: WORLD CITIZEN is on a mooring at Trellis Bay, Tortola BVI, and any Amel's are certainly welcome to stop by for a Sundowner and conversation. We should be there for quite sometime. Tony WORLD CITIZEN SM#266
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Re: Speed vs. RPM
Ag Av8ter
Hello Gary,
What a good idea! Of course I would start bt reaing the engine down only to fine the fuel shut off valve half closed!!! I am in Paramaribo, Suriname at the moment, but will return to Tortola in a few days, and will certainly check it out. I did have the tank cleaned and fuel polished right after I bought the boat, so your suggestion would be an easy fix! BTW: WORLD CITIZEN is on a mooring at Trellis Bay, Tortola BVI, and any Amel's are certainly welcome to stop by for a Sundowner and conversation. We should be there for quite sometime. Tony WORLD CITIZEN SM#266 --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, amelliahona <no_reply@...> wrote: wrote: from my Yanmar (SMTony:This is a simple thing but once when I couldn't get adequate RPM Hull # 335), and after I checked everything else I found that thefuel shut off valve had been bumped and was slightly restrictive of fuel flow. Have youchecked to make sure you don't have excess fuel suction? Other things would be restrictedfuel filters etc. The engine would start and run fine but just wouldn't develope fullRPM (power). has the we wereVolvo engine that has a sticker on it saying built by Perkins, itself istold it is 80hp. We also have the Amel autoprop. The prop bladesclean and the roller bearings that are visable are clean. The widerotate easily. When in calm water she will run at about 7.5 kts says itopen, but she will only turn up 2,200 RPM. The Volvo manual 2,200should turn up over 4000 RPM. In rough water and head winds, at for aRPM we are lucky to get 3 to 4 kts. Is this a typical situation atSM? Sure seems overpitched. Does not make much smoke and runs 90C. Ideas? Thanks for your help. Tony
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Re: Speed vs. RPM
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "agav8ter" <agav8ter@...> wrote:
Tony:This is a simple thing but once when I couldn't get adequate RPM from my Yanmar (SM Hull # 335), and after I checked everything else I found that the fuel shut off valve had been bumped and was slightly restrictive of fuel flow. Have you checked to make sure you don't have excess fuel suction? Other things would be restricted fuel filters etc. The engine would start and run fine but just wouldn't develope full RPM (power). Just my two cents worth. Gary Silver Hello all,
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Re: Speed vs. RPM
asm283 <no_reply@...>
Hi Tony
If you go trough the archives of this site you will see that the low RPM problem is almost exclusively caused by carbon built up in the turbo. The side of the turbo that this accurs is on the side by the heat exchange and muffler. I remember reading a post that explains the process of cleaning the turbo. I have had 2 Super Maramus with this engine and both times it was the turbo. Good luck Vito --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "agav8ter" <agav8ter@...> wrote: when I was first looking at her) and was able to rotate the turbinedrive wheel easily. That is where I would expect the carbon deposits,not in the actual compressor side. Do you agree? When I went to theneed insidedone is to have the turbo charger removed and have the carboninsidethe turbo removed. This is not a big deal so dont let yourmechanicmake it one. What happens is that carbon deposits built up ktsthe turbo housing and stop the turbo from rotating. Thus theyou atwidesaysopen, but she will only turn up 2,200 RPM. The Volvo manualitshould turn up over 4000 RPM. In rough water and head winds, situation2,200RPM we are lucky to get 3 to 4 kts. Is this a typical runsfor aSM? Sure seems overpitched. Does not make much smoke and at90C. Ideas? Thanks for your help. Tony
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Re: Speed vs. RPM
Ag Av8ter
Hello Vito,
Thanks for the reply. I was hoping that it was in the prop, as I removed the ducting from the intake side of the turbo (this was when I was first looking at her) and was able to rotate the turbine drive wheel easily. That is where I would expect the carbon deposits, not in the actual compressor side. Do you agree? When I went to the Volvo manual it said that at the operating RPM I am gettng the engine is only putting out 33HP. (This from memory so my numbers might be off a bit. I am in Suriname right now and the boat in the BVI) I also checcked to see if the wastegate valve was stuck, and it appears to be working correctly. I do appreciate you reply and any others you might suggest. This board is a wealth of info!!!! I can't wait to have my wife read about how to repaint the stripes on the decks!!!!! Tony --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, asm283 <no_reply@...> wrote: inside the turbo removed. This is not a big deal so dont let yourmechanic make it one. What happens is that carbon deposits built up insideyou should be able to run at 2700 to 2800 RPM and have a speed ofabout 8.5 knots.has theweVolvo engine that has a sticker on it saying built by Perkins, wereitselftold it is 80hp. We also have the Amel autoprop. The prop issaysclean and the roller bearings that are visable are clean. Thebladesrotate easily. When in calm water she will run at about 7.5 ktswideopen, but she will only turn up 2,200 RPM. The Volvo manual itatshould turn up over 4000 RPM. In rough water and head winds, at2,200RPM we are lucky to get 3 to 4 kts. Is this a typical situationfor aSM? Sure seems overpitched. Does not make much smoke and runs 90C. Ideas? Thanks for your help. Tony
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Painting deck stripes - pictures
amelliahona <no_reply@...>
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, eric <kimberlite@...> wrote:Eric: Peter Grimm's Company is Super Sailmakers, of Ft. Lauderdale. He is who Joel recommended to me. He has built lots of 110% Jibs for Amel SMs. His phone is 954 522-4663. They call the 110% a "Carribean Blaster". It is 502 square feet, of 9.5 oz low aspect Dacron and has a foam luff with a UV boarder. You need 135 ft of sheet. Peter recommended 1/2 inch line for the sheets and I have found that 1/2 inch is a little too small for our jib sheet winches. I have to put at least 5 turns on to prevent slippage. I purchased the sail last year and the price was $ 2,684 USD with Joel's referral discount. I had a chance to use it for the first time last month in the BVI. What a great sail. I find I can point about 5 to 8 degrees higher (about 45 degrees), have speeds that match the Gateff 155% and it seems to be more foregiving of poor trimming. I am very impressed. Of course I was sailing in 15-25 knots of wind the whole time but I could sail completely un-furled where I would have had the 155% furled up during most of that last trip. Sorry to butt into your thread but I am so impressed with this sail that I couldn't resist. Regards, Gary Silver s/v Liahona Hull # 335> John, Nice speaking to you yesterday.
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Re: Speed vs. RPM
asm283 <no_reply@...>
Hello Tony
This is not an uncommon accurence on the Volvo 80hp. What you need done is to have the turbo charger removed and have the carbon inside the turbo removed. This is not a big deal so dont let your mechanic make it one. What happens is that carbon deposits built up inside the turbo housing and stop the turbo from rotating. Thus the reduction in power. Once this is done and all things being clean you should be able to run at 2700 to 2800 RPM and have a speed of about 8.5 knots. Hope this helps Vito WANDERER ASM#283 --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "agav8ter" <agav8ter@...> wrote: the Volvo engine that has a sticker on it saying built by Perkins, wewere told it is 80hp. We also have the Amel autoprop. The prop itselfis clean and the roller bearings that are visable are clean. Theblades rotate easily. When in calm water she will run at about 7.5 ktswide open, but she will only turn up 2,200 RPM. The Volvo manual saysit should turn up over 4000 RPM. In rough water and head winds, at2,200 RPM we are lucky to get 3 to 4 kts. Is this a typical situationfor a SM? Sure seems overpitched. Does not make much smoke and runs at
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Speed vs. RPM
Ag Av8ter
Hello all,
We have a S/M #266 and it is fairly new to us. Question: #266 has the Volvo engine that has a sticker on it saying built by Perkins, we were told it is 80hp. We also have the Amel autoprop. The prop itself is clean and the roller bearings that are visable are clean. The blades rotate easily. When in calm water she will run at about 7.5 kts wide open, but she will only turn up 2,200 RPM. The Volvo manual says it should turn up over 4000 RPM. In rough water and head winds, at 2,200 RPM we are lucky to get 3 to 4 kts. Is this a typical situation for a SM? Sure seems overpitched. Does not make much smoke and runs at 90C. Ideas? Thanks for your help. Tony
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Painting deck stripes - pictures
eric freedman
John,
Nice speaking to you yesterday. Were you able to find the name of the sail maker in Ft Lauderdale that made your 110? Fair Winds, Eric Amel Super Maramu #376 Kimberlite
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AMEL MARAMU GROUNDING SYSTEM
Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
Hi Dennis
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In the Perkins at least, the heat exchanger has its own zinc which should be changed each year as a service item. Low down at the aft end of the exchanger and quite accessible is a normal looking bolt which, if you unscrew it will look just a like a flat plug, because the zinc, a tube shape of a few centimetres length, will have worn away. Take the plug to a good chandlery and you should find a replacement easily. I believe there is also an exchangeable zinc plug for the water heater but not on my boat. Regards, Roger, Zorba, Mango 28
On 03/03/2006, at 11:26 PM, DENNIS STULLER wrote:
HI ROGER,
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AMEL MARAMU GROUNDING SYSTEM
Eric Lindholm
Dennis if you are having problems with your heat exchanger, the remedy will probably have nothing to do with the rest of your bonding system. The connection of the heat exchanger to your external zinc, or the conductivity of the water lines coming in and out of the exchanger, are not the issue or the problem. The heat exchanger needs its own protection separate from the rest of the metal fittings on your boat. The metal in the exchanger, and the water around it, create their own problem. A battery of sorts. The exchanger needs its own internal zinc plug. Connecting the heat exchanger and or the engine to the bonding system does nothing. Roger has given a good recap of the various theories and applications. I believe that it is better to connect everything together. More is better. The whole idea behind the connection of all the metal parts is to equalize the conductivity between each of them, and then attach the same bonding cable to the zinc which is lower on the galvanic scale so
it corrodes. Only those parts which are exposed to the same body of water are protected by the zinc which they are connected to. That is why your exchanger needs a separate system. So would your water pump, transmission cooler, etc, but you can only do so much. Connecting everything only works if there is no stray current coming from other sources. Maybe there was a problem with stray 12 volt current coming from your engine, which was causing a problem, so a previous owner severed the bonding ground to eliminate it rather than addressing the problem that was causing it. The same is true with the dockside power. Another boats electrical problems can be transferred to your boat through the ground wire in the power cord, causing your boat to become its zinc. A power cord that has dipped into the water for a period of time can get saturated with water inside and current will cross over from the hot wire to the ground. You can also get a salt bridge just inside the plug on the dock cord from exposure to the air alone. I personally studied bonding systems intensively and although I learned a lot of theories, it is clear that the application is part science, part myth, and part luck. I think every boat has its own issues, and needs a system tailored to it. Some boats have no problem connecting the bonding system to the ac ground, some do. I think you just have to take in a much info as you can, make your own choices, and then monitor it as best you can. Eric maramu 105 DENNIS STULLER <svcheechako@yahoo.com> wrote: HI ROGER, THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION. I SOMETIMES FEEL THAT I KNOW MORE ABOUT BOAT GROUNDING SYSTEMS THAN I UNDERSTAND. IN MY CASE THE PROPELLOR SHAFT IS NOT INSULATED AND IT APPEARS THAT I HAVE SOME CORROSION PROBLEMS AS EVIDENCED AT THE TRANSMISSION COOLER AND ENGINE HEAT EXCHANGER. I AM GOING TO DIG DEEPER AND CHECK CONNECTEDNESS AND CONDUCTIVITY OF THE SYSTEM. I WILL LET EVERYONE KNOW WHAT I FIND. REGARDS, DENNIS STULLER MARAMU #186 --- Roger Banks <roger.banks@mac.com> wrote: Hi Dennis __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com SPONSORED LINKS Sailing Sailing yacht Amel Boating sailing --------------------------------- YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "amelyachtowners" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. ---------------------------------
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AMEL MARAMU GROUNDING SYSTEM
DENNIS STULLER <svcheechako@...>
HI ROGER,
THANKS FOR THE INFORMATION. I SOMETIMES FEEL THAT I KNOW MORE ABOUT BOAT GROUNDING SYSTEMS THAN I UNDERSTAND. IN MY CASE THE PROPELLOR SHAFT IS NOT INSULATED AND IT APPEARS THAT I HAVE SOME CORROSION PROBLEMS AS EVIDENCED AT THE TRANSMISSION COOLER AND ENGINE HEAT EXCHANGER. I AM GOING TO DIG DEEPER AND CHECK CONNECTEDNESS AND CONDUCTIVITY OF THE SYSTEM. I WILL LET EVERYONE KNOW WHAT I FIND. REGARDS, DENNIS STULLER MARAMU #186 --- Roger Banks <roger.banks@mac.com> wrote: Hi Dennis __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
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asymmetrical spinnaker or Ballooner ???
nautilus06 <nautilus06@...>
I am going to buy my first Amel : a 1989 Maramu but there is only on
board genoa, mainsail and mizzen. I wonder if it is better to buy an asymmetrical spinnaker or a ballooner ? Do you also think the mizzen "genoa" is useful Thank you
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Re: Mango Grounding
Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
Hi Michael
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Nice to hear from a Mango owner; there don't seem to be too many of us participating in the forum. I wouldn't describe myself as an expert, but am happy to help you with some suggestions. The zincs rapid disappearance definitely indicates something is wrong. After 18 months my rudder anodes were slightly used, and of course I changed them anyway. I was puzzled about why the only anodes are those on the rudder and was worried how I could place a suitable anode to protect the propshaft and engine. Investigation revealed that the rudder anodes are connected to the grounding strap which can be seen emerging by the rudder post (under the aft bunk), passing along the locker under the aft bunk, then appearing again in the engine room close to the prop shaft, tacked along the bilges under the engine, across to the engine earthing point, and so on through the boat. Thus no other zincs should be required. I've tested this with a multimeter and can report there was no resistance between the rudder anodes and the grounding strap sampled at several places through the boat. Your situation indicates that there is regular electrical activity through your anodes into the sea water; perhaps also your anti- fouling is copper-based (as is common), which might be producing the paint blistering you describe. It's important to recall that the DC grounding system to the anodes is intended to connect your anodes together for protection from galvanic corrosion, i.e. it is not necessary or desirable in the context of your DC battery circuits, particularly the services side. With regard to the services side, unlike a car, where a single wire leads to, say, a lamp and the return wire is grounded to the car body, on a boat all DC circuits should return via a negative cable to the battery (bearing in mind that many services cables lead back to the common earthing point in the electrical cupboard above the galley, and thence by a heavy-duty cable to the service batteries). The engine, being an automotive component, does have a number of electrical contacts, mainly sensors, which run to earth via the engine casting; however these circuits are completely separate from the services-side circuits and, when the engine batteries are isolated, are inert. In operation there should be no reason for earth leakage unless there is a resistance or break in the route back to earth, so perhaps you should check your main fuse (mounted on a tray at the aft end of the engine) and all connections on the route from there back via the starter-motor to the batteries (on my boat it's to a services battery negative post and thus via heavy-duty cable to the engine batteries); check all the connections around the starter-motor especially as inability of the commutator cranking current to return to battery negative would result, presumably, in a heavy discharge via the grounding strap into the sea (consistent with your description); similarly if the services- side to engine battery negative connection is not good. (Did you do your protection check also while the engine was running?) If in doubt, clean or replace all these cables until your problem disappears. The services and engine battery banks should have completely separate electrical wiring systems except for the one heavy-duty cable direct between the battery bank negatives. There should be one position only at which the DC system interconnects with the grounding strap, which is at the engine earthing point; on my Perkins 4.236 this is forward on the port side of the engine. Thus, when the engine batteries have been isolated, which is presumably most of the time, there is no cause for electricity to be circulating via the engine into the grounding strap and so on to the rudder anodes. You may want to check your wiring carefully to see if any other DC/ grounding interconnects have been made; check that each grounding system (DC, AC, HF, lightning) is separate from the others, subject to sensible interconnects, e.g. if the HF counterpoise is grounded to the engine or the grounding system, there needs to be a gap of one tenth of an inch (by fastening to a piece of phrenolic or electrical circuit board), bridged by suitable capacitors (which are transparent to HF but block DC); consider cutting the grounding strap from the aft head intake and from any other "passive" thru-hulls below the water line (I'm afraid I'm not familiar with a MaxProp). I addressed this sort of thing in my previous posting. They're great boats but in all these years many pairs of hands have been doing stuff. I'm amazed at what I find even professionals have done wrong. For instance, only recently in hunting down the cause of excess gassing in the service batteries, I found the regulator on some new solar panels I had installed last year is undersized; and just last week I found through detailed enquiry on the manufacturer's website that the regulator on my wind generator is under-sized too. I do everything myself now! Have fun and don't forget to report back if you have a success. Regards, Roger, Zorba, Mango 28
On 03/03/2006, at 1:40 AM, Silkair@aol.com wrote:
Roger
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AMEL MARAMU GROUNDING SYSTEM
Eric Lindholm
Dennis, I am doing the same thing, and trying to figure out what was intended to be bonded to what in my maramu as well. I didn't know that there was a bonding ground attached to the rudder until I read a response to your question. I have been having my dive service install the zincs, but I thought they were a stand alone system. Now I really have to look. I will watch the reply's to your question, and supply my own info when I figure it out. Eric Maramu 105
DENNIS STULLER <svcheechako@yahoo.com> wrote: HAS ANYONE DELVED DEEPLY INTO THE AMEL GROUNDING SYSTEM? IN THE PROCESS OF CLEANING UP THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT ON MY 1985 MARAMU HULL #186 I HAVE FOUND THAT THE GROUND STRAP BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND THE GROUND BUS HAS BEEN SEVERED, APPARENTLY ON PURPOSE. ALSO WHERE THE GROUNDING BUSS PASSES IN FRONT OF THE ENGINE, IT APPEARS AS IF THE BUSS ORIGINALLY WAS EXTENED DOWN INTO THE BILGE AND WAS BOLTED TO THE KEEL BOLT AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BILGE. THIS MAKES SOME SENSE, BUT ON MY BOAT BOTH CONNECTIONS ARE SEVERED. THANKS, DENNIS STULLER MARAMU #186 "CHEECHAKO" SPONSORED LINKS Sailing Sailing yacht Amel Boating sailing --------------------------------- YAHOO! GROUPS LINKS Visit your group "amelyachtowners" on the web. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: amelyachtowners-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to the Yahoo! Terms of Service. ---------------------------------
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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] AMEL MARAMU GROUNDING SYSTEM
Roger Banks <roger.banks@...>
Hi Dennis
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Yes, I've spent quite a bit of time looking at the grounding systems and there a few good articles in magazines and on the internet, but some how they never quite get down to specifics of every situation. There are four grounds which need to be kept separate, subject to certain approved interactions: AC, DC, HF, and lightning. Regarding the DC ground, which is the subject of your enquiry, the logic not many years ago was to connect together every metal thru-hull, which Amel have done elegantly with the grounding bus you describe, which connects to the zinc anodes mounted either side of the rudder (at least it's so on my Mango); this system still holds good if you spend your whole time in remote anchorages, but entering a modern marina exposes your boat to stray electrical currents from and between other boats (DC) and pontoon services (AC). This can set up a galvanic corrosion reaction, in which the current enters by one thru-hull and exits by another, taking with it some metal. This is also a problem where two or more metals are in contact in an electrolyte, e.g. sea water. Therefore the common wisdom has altered since your boat was built to say that thru-hulls should not be linked together. Bronze thru-hulls, such as for toilet water intakes below the water line, are considered stable and may happily be left alone, i.e. not connected via a strap to any other thru-hull which would expose it to the corrosion effects described above. There are some situations where connection is unavoidable, such as stainless steel (itself an alloy) prop shaft mounted in bronze tube and with copper propellor. It's essential to ensure the grounding bus is connected to both the prop shaft and its mounting tube which, as I recall, is visible inside the engine room, between the engine and stern gland. If you look further you will find that the engine water intake cock is connected by water to the raw water manifold and to the engine itself and, if I observe it correctly, to the diesel supply system via that fluid and to the fresh water heater. Some of the bus gets pretty inaccessible in these places. I'm not 100% sure of the electrical connectivity via fluids of some of these items and would be glad of contributions by others. It seems to me that whether the engine etc should be connected to the grounding strap, and thus the zinc anodes, is a question if there is more than one connection to the sea water, i.e. via the raw water intake and what else? I believe the prop shaft is isolated from the engine by a flexible coupling. The exhaust water exits above the water line (as do all basins and toilet water exit points), so does not count. Thus if the only connection point between the engine and sea water is the raw water inlet, it may be correct that the ground strap was severed. If your model of Maramu has a ground strap connection to a keel bolt, unlike my Mango where the rudder anodes are the single point of protection, then you may need to restore the connection and make sure the keel bolt is protected by an anode, but it may be your analysis of this is not correct. Regards, Roger, Zorba, Mango 28
On 02/03/2006, at 1:15 PM, DENNIS STULLER wrote:
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AMEL MARAMU GROUNDING SYSTEM
DENNIS STULLER <svcheechako@...>
HAS ANYONE DELVED DEEPLY INTO THE AMEL GROUNDING SYSTEM? IN THE
PROCESS OF CLEANING UP THE ENGINE COMPARTMENT ON MY 1985 MARAMU HULL #186 I HAVE FOUND THAT THE GROUND STRAP BETWEEN THE ENGINE AND THE GROUND BUS HAS BEEN SEVERED, APPARENTLY ON PURPOSE. ALSO WHERE THE GROUNDING BUSS PASSES IN FRONT OF THE ENGINE, IT APPEARS AS IF THE BUSS ORIGINALLY WAS EXTENED DOWN INTO THE BILGE AND WAS BOLTED TO THE KEEL BOLT AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BILGE. THIS MAKES SOME SENSE, BUT ON MY BOAT BOTH CONNECTIONS ARE SEVERED. THANKS, DENNIS STULLER MARAMU #186 "CHEECHAKO"
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Charter an Amel SM-2000 in Greece
Krassopoulos Dimitris <dkra@...>
As I have recently sold all my other business interests in Greece, I wish to
advise all of you that you can Charter ALMA LIBRE SM-2000 ( 2002 Model) in Greece. I believe that this a good opportunity to charter the boat in Greece for sailing in the Aegean Sea which is a sailing paradise. More information at www.almalibre.gr/chartering/index.htm . All the details and inventory of the boat are at the website www.almalibre.gr I will be glad to welcome you onboard and please refer this also to your friends that wish to charter a well found boat in this part of the world. Regards Dimitris Krassopoulos dkra@almalibre.gr
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Re: Amel at Guadalupe
Mark Pitt
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "markmpitt" <mark_pitt@...> wrote:
Sorry, that is the email for the marina in my earlier post. The email for Amel in Guadeloupe that I have is: amel.caraibes@wanadoo.fr Mark Pitt "Sabbatical III" ASM #419
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Re: Amel at Guadalupe
Mark Pitt
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "agav8ter" <agav8ter@...> wrote:
They are in Marina Bas du Fort near Point-a-Pitre. Their email is marina@marina-pap.com. You come up the main shipping channel toward Point-a-Pitre and it is to your left. It is well marked on charts. Mark Pitt "Sabbatical III" ASM #419
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