Date   

If anyone needs a rebuild kit for a Simpson Lawrence SL 400/401 toilet....

Dave_Benjamin
 

I am replacing a SL 401 and have spares for it. The previous owner told
me he imported the kit from Scotland as it was not available from
anywhere else. I will put it on ebay if noone on the list is
interested.


fiberglass pan in forward head - Maramu

Dave_Benjamin
 

I am replacing the forward head in our Maramu. I was giving some
thought to removing the fiberglass pan so I can renew the plumbing for
the shower drain and relocate the raw water intake for the head. The
pan appears to be removable but I'm wondering if it separates from the
part outside the toilet compartment along the sill. It appears to be
all one piece and if it is I'm not sure how or if it would come out.

Has anyone removed this piece?


Re: bilge pump

joseph mc donnell
 

Hi Pat
I'v done some work on the pump in the past, I found that the
mounts attaching the pump to the motor, had broken down over time and
although the motor was running it was moving the whole pump assembly
and not the diaphram. With a bit of work the unit was repaired and put
back in, (touch wood) no problems after two years Although it seems
like the pump has a lot to do, in lifting the waste water, it is one
powerful and reliable pump and well up to the job. Questions, you said
there was work done, is the check valve facing the right way, is there
a blockage in the inlet pipe at the suction head, disconect the lifting
hose from the bilge side of the pump see if there is suction when the
pump is switched on, lifting the top plate of the pump, see if the
actuating arm is attached properly to the pump, lastly is there a
blockage on the seaward side of the pump. You should have no problem
disasembling the unit, a good job for a winters day on the boat.
Regards Joe McDonnell

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "sailw32"
<sailw32@...> wrote:

I have a Jabsco diaghram bilge pump.The motor is fine ,the diaghram
is
new the flaps operational and yet I have not been able to get it to
pump water.I've primed it and done everything to no avail.My question
is has other owners had problems with their pumps and has anyone
changed out to some other arrangement.It seems like quite a vertical
lift for the diameter of the hose. Thanks,Pat S/M Shenanigans


Rép. : [Amel] bilge pump

Serge Tremblay <laetitiaii@...>
 

Hi Pat,
 
I had to replace the block holding the valves, and the valves in 2005 on the Jabsco pump, but the pump now works very well. However, as a security, I have installed a secondary bilge pump (Jabco again) which is also connected to the high water alarm, all activated by a air switch which is set a level (+10")  which indicates that the main pump has failed to do the job. Once in a while ( before a crossing) I manually test the pump, by deactivating the main pump for a few days.
 
If the valves are well placed and if the diaphragm is not pierced, your pump should work when the arm moves. The pump works much better if the check valve in the  bottom strainer does retain water, and, of course, the pump will not work at all if the stainer is blocked...
 
I suggest you look at the pump schematic ont the Jabsco web site.
 
Serge, Opera, Mango #51

--- En date de : Dim, 23.11.08, sailw32 <sailw32@aol.com> a écrit :

De: sailw32 <sailw32@aol.com>
Objet: [Amel] bilge pump
À: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: dimanche 23 Novembre 2008, 17 h 28

I have a Jabsco diaghram bilge pump.The motor is fine ,the diaghram is
new the flaps operational and yet I have not been able to get it to
pump water.I've primed it and done everything to no avail.My question
is has other owners had problems with their pumps and has anyone
changed out to some other arrangement.It seems like quite a vertical
lift for the diameter of the hose. Thanks,Pat S/M Shenanigans


------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links






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http://cf.promos.yahoo.com/courriel/visiteguidee2/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


bilge pump

Patrick McAneny
 

I have a Jabsco diaghram bilge pump.The motor is fine ,the diaghram is
new the flaps operational and yet I have not been able to get it to
pump water.I've primed it and done everything to no avail.My question
is has other owners had problems with their pumps and has anyone
changed out to some other arrangement.It seems like quite a vertical
lift for the diameter of the hose. Thanks,Pat S/M Shenanigans


Re: Rép. : [Amel] bilge pump

Patrick McAneny
 

Serge, You said you replaced the block holding the valves.By "block" do you
mean the lower half of the pump housing?The pump has a check valve but the
strainer does not have a check valve and that may very well help.I'll buy a new
strainer with check valve.Thanks for your input.Pat / Shenanigans

In a message dated 11/23/2008 8:20:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
sailw32@aol.com writes:






In a message dated 11/23/2008 7:49:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
_laetitiaii@yahoo.la_ (mailto:laetitiaii@yahoo.ca) writes:

Hi Pat,

I had to replace the block holding the valves, and the valves in 2005 on the
Jabsco pump, but the pump now works very well. However, as a security, I
have installed a secondary bilge pump (Jabco again) which is also connected
to
the high water alarm, all activated by a air switch which is set a level
(+10") which indicates that the main pump has failed to do the job. Once in
a
while ( before a crossing) I manually test the pump, by deactivating the
main
pump for a few days.

If the valves are well placed and if the diaphragm is not pierced, your pump
should work when the arm moves. The pump works much better if the check
valve in the bottom strainer does retain water, and, of course, the pump
will
not work at all if the stainer is blocked...

I suggest you look at the pump schematic ont the Jabsco web site.

Serge, Opera, Mango #51

--- En date de : Dim, 23.11.08, sailw32 <__sailw32@aol._sa_
(mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai) _
(mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) ) > a écrit :

De: sailw32 <__sailw32@aol._sa_ (mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai) _
(mailto:_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) ) >
Objet: [Amel] bilge pump
À: _amelyachtowners@À: _amelyachtowners@<WBR_amelyachtowners@amelyachtowname_
(mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com) )
Date: dimanche 23 Novembre 2008, 17 h 28

I have a Jabsco diaghram bilge pump.The motor is fine ,the diaghram is
new the flaps operational and yet I have not been able to get it to
pump water.I've primed it and done everything to no avail.My question
is has other owners had problems with their pumps and has anyone
changed out to some other arrangement.changed out to some other arran
lift for the diameter of the hose. Thanks,Pat S/M Shenanigans

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Devenez un meilleur amigo grâce à Yahoo! Courriel
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(http://cf.promos.http//cf.http://cfhttp://cf.prom_)
(_http://cf.promos.http://cf.http://cfhttp://cf.prom_
(http://cf.promos.yahoo.com/courriel/visiteguidee2/) )

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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your
and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com
today!(_http://pr.atwola.http://pr.atwhttp://pr.atwolahttp://pr.atwolahttp://p
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**************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks,
and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com
today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp
%26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Rép. : [Amel] bilge pump

Patrick McAneny
 

In a message dated 11/23/2008 7:49:43 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
laetitiaii@yahoo.ca writes:




Hi Pat,

I had to replace the block holding the valves, and the valves in 2005 on the
Jabsco pump, but the pump now works very well. However, as a security, I
have installed a secondary bilge pump (Jabco again) which is also connected to
the high water alarm, all activated by a air switch which is set a level
(+10") which indicates that the main pump has failed to do the job. Once in a
while ( before a crossing) I manually test the pump, by deactivating the main
pump for a few days.

If the valves are well placed and if the diaphragm is not pierced, your pump
should work when the arm moves. The pump works much better if the check
valve in the bottom strainer does retain water, and, of course, the pump will
not work at all if the stainer is blocked...

I suggest you look at the pump schematic ont the Jabsco web site.

Serge, Opera, Mango #51

--- En date de : Dim, 23.11.08, sailw32 <_sailw32@aol.sai_
(mailto:sailw32@aol.com) > a écrit :

De: sailw32 <_sailw32@aol.sai_ (mailto:sailw32@aol.com) >
Objet: [Amel] bilge pump
À: _amelyachtowners@amelyachtowname_ (mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com)
Date: dimanche 23 Novembre 2008, 17 h 28

I have a Jabsco diaghram bilge pump.The motor is fine ,the diaghram is
new the flaps operational and yet I have not been able to get it to
pump water.I've primed it and done everything to no avail.My question
is has other owners had problems with their pumps and has anyone
changed out to some other arrangement.changed out to some other arrangeme
lift for the diameter of the hose. Thanks,Pat S/M Shenanigans

------------------------------------

Yahoo! Groups Links

Devenez un meilleur amigo grâce à Yahoo! Courriel
_http://cf.promos.http://cf.http://cfhttp://cf.prom_
(http://cf.promos.yahoo.com/courriel/visiteguidee2/)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




**************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks,
and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com
today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp
%26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001)


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Santorin fridge

wolfgangklh
 

Hallo Willem,
schön was von Dir und Kavanga zu hören. Sitze in Spanien und betrachte
Gibraltar und ihr seid auf der anderen Seite des Mittelmeers.
Wenn Du Zeit und Lust hast, so schicke doch mal Info zu den Plänen und
Eurem Liegeplatz unter Wolf.klueh²t-online.de

Gruß Wolfgang


Replacing an Isotemp Basic 4 water heater in a Super Maramu

svbebe <yahoogroups@...>
 

Greetings from BeBe in New Zealand,

I just replaced the Isotemp Basic 4 in a Super Maramu 2000 hull #387.
The distributor said that it was an exact replacement. I was told
that the Basic 4 now comes standard with a mixing valve to regulate
the output water temperature; and that I could not get one without the
mixing valve.

As it turns out the new Isotemp Basic 4 with the standard mixing valve
will not fit in the SM2. The mixing valve increases the overall
height of the water heater at the point where it meets the cockpit
scupper drain pipe. I discussed this problem with the Isotemp
distributor and he said to "simply remove the mixing valve."

You have probably guessed that modifying boat parts and the word
"simply" just do not go together, After a lot of trial and error I
found a solution and will post the procedure and photos in the Photo
section titled "Isotemp replacement in a Super Maramu."

Regards,

Bill Rouse circumnavigating with Judy
s/v BeBe SM2 #387
anchored Opua, New Zealand


Re: ventilation

c_fruendt
 

Thanks for input which complies with my own investigations.
Sailingboats are a compromise and too many openings are not acceptable
for a ocean sailing boat.

Have a nice stay in Jolly harbour and do not forget to go to Shirley
hights on saturday evening to enjoy steel band and rumpunch. I visited
Antigua 3 times and i liked it very much.


Re: new fridge unit Santorin

Willem J. Kroes <Kavanga@...>
 

Hi Phil,

Ask Mr Beaute from Amel:

(Olivier BEAUTE/After-sales dept
sav@amel.fr)

My boat is in Turkey now, so I also can't give you the max. dimensions
for the fridge.

On my #69 Santorin the original Electrolux fridge is still working
properly. May be consuming a little bit more amps compared to more
recent models.

Success!

Willem J. Kroes

Amel Santorin #69 "Kavanga"


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, phil.berghmans <no_reply@...>
wrote:

hello amelists!

I'm having problem with my fridge (previous owner installed a Db 35
Danfoss aircooled compressor)it runs 80% off the time when its more
then
25 celsius.

To cut a long story short is there anyone with advice on wich system
and model i could change to .We will be going to the carib and
beyond
next year.Spending our time in warm waters.

Does anyone have the right measures off the fridge space in a
Santorin
We want to buy/order the new system here in the Benelux and take it
with
us to Greece where the boat is located now.So I cant measure the
space.
And want to buy the biggest model i can get in there?Does somebody
had
the same problem maybe?

Thanks for all your help in advance

Phil from 2Miles ahead
Santorin 101


Re: [Amel] AMEL EUROS

Russ Roberts <russ.roberts.va@...>
 

Regarding the Euros cored decking: Any reports on the damages found in the
old boats with years of no maintenance? Thanks your all the other
information. Does anyone else with older Amels have any reports on deck
leaks/damage?

Russ

On Tue, Nov 18, 2008 at 4:35 PM, matt <russisland@yahoo.com> wrote:

Hi,

My engine is 4cyl.75HP Indenor(Peugot)Diesel with the Borg Warner
Velvet Shuttle Drive Plate Transmission. From close observation I can
tell this is a second engine as few parts were left from Volvo Penta
eg. impeller pump etc.etc.
The diesel fuel tanks are: Port-150L. Starboard-100L.
From memory the water capacity is 250L. in the keel tank.
The refrigeration with the old system is not economical anymore due to
the price of fuel-alternative energy will be the way to go:)
No holding tanks on the boat-all gear pretty much from the 80's.
The most disturbing thing I found so far is the gray water system!
Runs all the way from the head to the bilge under companion way then
is pumped out by manual pump out. No much good for the fiberglass down
below.
The decks are composite but not sure if it is balsa core? looks more
like hardwood-but that will be very unusual?
I managed to upload few pics please look in the album 'SV DARIEN'-soon
more.
Thanks to all
magic
SV.DARIEN
AMEL EUROS No.88

P.S. Jose-Luis are you able to sent few photos of your boat? how did
you install your autopilot? is it mechanical drive with the original
morse or hydraulic? Did you changed your running rig from cable wire
to the ropes? what about second frigde near the stove in the galley-
still function as a fridge?

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
"Russ Roberts"
<russ.roberts.va@...> wrote:

Hi Matt & Jose-Luis,

If all goes according to plan, I will take delivery of my Euros 39
in
December. I do not yet know what the serial number is.

Can you tell me how Amel constructed the decks on this type of
vessel? Is
it solid or cored?

What is the standard fuel and water capacity for these boats. The
one I'm
buying has 66 gallons of fuel.

Russ

On Sun, Nov 16, 2008 at 7:52 PM, matt <russisland@...> wrote:

Hi,
I'm new to the group-looking for the other owners of Amel Euros
39ft-to
exchange comments and ideas about this design:)
I'm in Oz and new owner of 'DARIEN' Euros No.88
Best Regards
matt






Sharki line drawing / image posted

Zanareva
 

I've uploaded an AutoCAD drawing (in Files section) and raster image
(in Amel-General folder in Photos section) of the Sharki plan view I
drew years ago when we owned her. Good for Sharki owners to use to
make a boat 'calling card' or other graphic need but I wouldn't use
for an purpose where you're going to manufacture anything.

Richard
SM#5 Spice


Re: [Amel] AMEL EUROS

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Hi,

As far as I know the Indenor and the MD21a are the same engine. In my
engine I can read Indenor as well somewhere in the block, but the
serial number corresponds to a Volvo Penta MD21a and, as I commented
before, i have the workshop manual and it is exactly the same as the
one I have.

Regarding the deck, i have observed that it is fiber (I can see light
coming through), but some parts that need more robustness (winches,
etc) habe probably been cored with hardwood.

I have posted the plans I have for 39' and 41' in the group. There
you can find some details. Although I do not know if the 39' was
exactly the same.

I have equipped the boat with a 40 liters holding tank for black
water. If you need more there are some more space. You can also use
the space below the port bed in the forward cabin.

Regards
JL


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "matt" <russisland@...> wrote:

Hi,

My engine is 4cyl.75HP Indenor(Peugot)Diesel with the Borg Warner
Velvet Shuttle Drive Plate Transmission. From close observation I
can
tell this is a second engine as few parts were left from Volvo
Penta
eg. impeller pump etc.etc.
The diesel fuel tanks are: Port-150L. Starboard-100L.
From memory the water capacity is 250L. in the keel tank.
The refrigeration with the old system is not economical anymore due
to
the price of fuel-alternative energy will be the way to go:)
No holding tanks on the boat-all gear pretty much from the 80's.
The most disturbing thing I found so far is the gray water system!
Runs all the way from the head to the bilge under companion way
then
is pumped out by manual pump out. No much good for the fiberglass
down
below.
The decks are composite but not sure if it is balsa core? looks
more
like hardwood-but that will be very unusual?
I managed to upload few pics please look in the album 'SV DARIEN'-
soon
more.
Thanks to all
magic
SV.DARIEN
AMEL EUROS No.88

P.S. Jose-Luis are you able to sent few photos of your boat? how
did
you install your autopilot? is it mechanical drive with the
original
morse or hydraulic? Did you changed your running rig from cable
wire
to the ropes? what about second frigde near the stove in the galley-
still function as a fridge?



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Russ Roberts"
<russ.roberts.va@> wrote:

Hi Matt & Jose-Luis,

If all goes according to plan, I will take delivery of my Euros
39
in
December. I do not yet know what the serial number is.

Can you tell me how Amel constructed the decks on this type of
vessel? Is
it solid or cored?

What is the standard fuel and water capacity for these boats.
The
one I'm
buying has 66 gallons of fuel.

Russ

On Sun, Nov 16, 2008 at 7:52 PM, matt <russisland@> wrote:

Hi,
I'm new to the group-looking for the other owners of Amel Euros
39ft-to
exchange comments and ideas about this design:)
I'm in Oz and new owner of 'DARIEN' Euros No.88
Best Regards
matt



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] AMEL EUROS

matt
 

Hi,

My engine is 4cyl.75HP Indenor(Peugot)Diesel with the Borg Warner
Velvet Shuttle Drive Plate Transmission. From close observation I can
tell this is a second engine as few parts were left from Volvo Penta
eg. impeller pump etc.etc.
The diesel fuel tanks are: Port-150L. Starboard-100L.
From memory the water capacity is 250L. in the keel tank.
The refrigeration with the old system is not economical anymore due to
the price of fuel-alternative energy will be the way to go:)
No holding tanks on the boat-all gear pretty much from the 80's.
The most disturbing thing I found so far is the gray water system!
Runs all the way from the head to the bilge under companion way then
is pumped out by manual pump out. No much good for the fiberglass down
below.
The decks are composite but not sure if it is balsa core? looks more
like hardwood-but that will be very unusual?
I managed to upload few pics please look in the album 'SV DARIEN'-soon
more.
Thanks to all
magic
SV.DARIEN
AMEL EUROS No.88

P.S. Jose-Luis are you able to sent few photos of your boat? how did
you install your autopilot? is it mechanical drive with the original
morse or hydraulic? Did you changed your running rig from cable wire
to the ropes? what about second frigde near the stove in the galley-
still function as a fridge?



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Russ Roberts"
<russ.roberts.va@...> wrote:

Hi Matt & Jose-Luis,

If all goes according to plan, I will take delivery of my Euros 39
in
December. I do not yet know what the serial number is.

Can you tell me how Amel constructed the decks on this type of
vessel? Is
it solid or cored?

What is the standard fuel and water capacity for these boats. The
one I'm
buying has 66 gallons of fuel.

Russ

On Sun, Nov 16, 2008 at 7:52 PM, matt <russisland@...> wrote:

Hi,
I'm new to the group-looking for the other owners of Amel Euros
39ft-to
exchange comments and ideas about this design:)
I'm in Oz and new owner of 'DARIEN' Euros No.88
Best Regards
matt



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel] AMEL EUROS

Russ Roberts <russ.roberts.va@...>
 

Hi Matt & Jose-Luis,

If all goes according to plan, I will take delivery of my Euros 39 in
December. I do not yet know what the serial number is.

Can you tell me how Amel constructed the decks on this type of vessel? Is
it solid or cored?

What is the standard fuel and water capacity for these boats. The one I'm
buying has 66 gallons of fuel.

Russ

On Sun, Nov 16, 2008 at 7:52 PM, matt <russisland@yahoo.com> wrote:

Hi,
I'm new to the group-looking for the other owners of Amel Euros 39ft-to
exchange comments and ideas about this design:)
I'm in Oz and new owner of 'DARIEN' Euros No.88
Best Regards
matt



Re: [Amel] Re: AMEL EUROS

Russ Roberts <russ.roberts.va@...>
 

The boat, the 1971 model Euros, I'm looking at has a Renault engine.
Any ideas about them? How much trouble to replace with a Yanmar, Volvo or
Westerbeke/Perkins? I have no refrigerator, stove, electronics on it, so
will have to decide which models and types of installations. I also have to
install a holding tank for the head. What is your arrangement? Where is
the tank and where does it vent?

Please keep us up to date on the progress of your Euros.

On Tue, Nov 18, 2008 at 6:41 AM, Jose_Luis Isasi <
jose.luis.isasi@motorola.com> wrote:

Have fun !

I installed a danfoss 35 for the icebox below the chart table and it
works well but if I had to do it again, I would remove the box and
install a proper fridge (or 2 fridges). My Euros is a 41 but I think
they perform the same under sail (7-8 knots maximum I got).

I have the workshop manual for the Volvo Penta MD21A (75 HP), but I
do not know if this one is your engine model.


Regards
Jose_Luis

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com <amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
"matt" <russisland@...> wrote:

Thanks Jose Luis:)

yes, the keel step(boot)is rusty and my plan is to blast whole
underwater section with the clean llmenite about 0.2-0.5 grid then
get to the first layer of fiberglass to fix small patches which
where
repaired with polyester(!?!), yes someone have no much idea and
now
blisters all over the underwater hull area.
I'll try to find good diesel mechanic, but-yes-motor must go on the
bench-time for rebuilt as cylinders glazed and is a bit smoky; runs
only @ 50+C-much to cold for a diesel. The original eutectic system
will be replaced in the future with the 12V danfoss refrigeration.
Cutlass bearing is loose as well and only way to change it is to
pull
shaft from inside...just yesterday finished stripping the ruder and
in
the top corner found rot under the glass-the bores done it 'great'
job
but this one will be easy as the ruder is laminated hardwood-this
section will be cut out and replaced with the new timber then
glassed
with the cloth.
The dodger has been removed already and I'll make new perspex for
it
too as well all portholes and acrylics in the openings crazed and
must be replaced. As you can see anything I touch must be replaced
or
change. Shame boat like this was run down by lack of use and
regular
maintenance and I think so far this is the only Amel Euros in
Queensland, Australia-if not only one in the whole country?:)
Any idea about the design for a practical david's as the original
was
just a single one(!)? I need to afix few solar panels and wind
generator but I'm bit concern about changing to much sailing
characteristic and performance for this design?
More about working progress in few days time:)
Best Regards
magic
SV DARIEN



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com<amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
"Jose_Luis Isasi"
<jose.luis.isasi@> wrote:

Hi,

I made the down part of the hull. I took off all layers of
painting
to check integrity of the hull (it was perfect). Then I applied
special epoxi coat for iron to the ballast keel. And the rest
epoxi
for fiberglass.
I did not want to cover the iron keel with fiberglass because
there
is always leaks, and the keel can corrode without knowing it. I
prefer to see if there is corrosion everytime I haul the boat and
solve it. I spent about 3000 euros in this (made by a
professional).

An advice: To change the cutlass bearing (shaft bearing), you
will
need to move the shaft from stern to bow in order to remove it,
due
to the skeg. That means that you will need to overhaul the engine
in
this case. So, if you plan to overhaul the engine for repair,
take
the opportunity to replace the shaft bearing at the same time. My
mechanic took the measures and made it done in some plastic. In
fact
he asked for 2 units to be done, so I could have an spare one for
the
future.

The engine has the tow hook near the entrance, so you will need
to
dismount the windshield and move the roof forward, in order to do
a
vertical tow.

Regards
Jose Luis




--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com<amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
"matt" <russisland@>
wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com<amelyachtowners%40yahoogroups.com>,
"matt" <russisland@>
wrote:

Hi,
I'm new to the group-looking for the other owners of Amel
Euros
39ft-to
exchange comments and ideas about this design:)
I'm in Oz and new owner of 'DARIEN' Euros No.88
Best Regards
matt
Hi guys,

thanks a lot for your feedback:)

The Euros#88 I own now, was in the 'drink'without hull out for
the
last 10+ years...sad story-it was rented as trailer and of
course
no
maintenance etc. apparently was twice on the river and the rest
of
her
life in trawler harbor.Painted by hand with the two-pack and
stripped
from 60lt/hr Dessalator watermaker(what model this was?)I have
a
BIG
project ahead but I couldn't resist the lines of this beaut!:-D
AWESOME...and with the oversize rig (EUROS 41)she even won
races.Strange for the ketch, hey?;)

She was equip with the NECO autopilot with the mechanical drive
on
the
port deck next to galley portlight(!!!)Massive unit and such a
hazard
in bad weather?!

After 10+years and 5800Hrs on the motor she make it nice few
miles
trip to the hard stand with 4-6Knts on the top off the tide
idling.
I found heaps of info, manuals even blue print of original
sails
from
1969.
The work will commence as soon as weather permits.
I'm on the budget as many of us but I'll try my best to bring
back
a
little spark to this amazing design.
My last boat was alloy Ovni, sadly lost in Feb. storm in Airlie
Beach,
Queensland, Australia-but this one will see the blue water one
day
again.
I PROMISE:-)))

Please sent photos and any/all info you can get about this
design
eg.
rig, specs etc. I think every bit will help.
Soon I'll try upload few pics.
But for now thanks ahead to all who can help with any info.

Best Regards

magic
SV DARIEN
AMEL EUROS #88

P.S. the Hungarian site was down now for few months-I think he
just
moved on?


Re: [Amel] Tonnage

Richard Piller <richard03801@...>
 

I suggest that you email Amel and they will send you one. Please note that there are two tonages, one net and one gross. Your boat will weigh in at about 23 metric tons.
good luck
Richard and Joan on SM 209 in Corsica

--- On Tue, 11/18/08, saoleile <saoleile@yahoo.com> wrote:

From: saoleile <saoleile@yahoo.com>
Subject: [Amel] Tonnage
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Date: Tuesday, November 18, 2008, 9:30 AM
Hi, we have recently become the owners of a Super Maramu and
are
trying to get her registered in Ireland. We require an
International
certificate of tonnage. Has anyone with a sister ship have
one?


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Proper Pronunciation?

Battaglini Ornella Barbara <ornella.battaglini@...>
 

S ( like in sun), a (like in father), n (like in sun), t (like in tea), o (like in note), r (like in red), e (like in bed), n (sun).
hope is clear.
Ornella Santorin 122 Earendil

----- Original Message -----
From: rossirossix4
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 10:25 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Proper Pronunciation?


What would that be phonetically?
--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Battaglini Ornella Barbara"
<ornella.battaglini@...> wrote:
>
> Bob
> the correct frech pronunciation of Santorin is Santorèn
> Ornella
> Santorin 122 Earendil
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: rossirossix4
> To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
> Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 5:31 PM
> Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Re: Proper Pronunciation?
>
>
> Thanks Craig,
>
> How about the pronunciation of Santorin?
>
> Bob Santorin #86 "Brittany de la Mer"
>
> --- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Craig & Katherine"
> <sangaris@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi David,
> >
> > That would be "Ah-mel" with the "a" pronounced in the European
> fashion,
> > as in "father"; not the hard American "Ay-mel" (with a hard "a"
as
> > in "say"). And the emphasis should be equal of each syllable,
(which,
> > to the American ear, sounds like the last syllable is being
stressed.)
> >
> > Regardless of how you say it, it's still superb!
> >
> > Cheers,
> > Craig - Santorin #68 "Sangaris"
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------
----------
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.0/1780 - Release Date:
10/11/2008 20.58
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>






------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.9.0/1780 - Release Date: 10/11/2008 20.58


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: AMEL EUROS

Jose_Luis Isasi <jose.luis.isasi@...>
 

Have fun !

I installed a danfoss 35 for the icebox below the chart table and it
works well but if I had to do it again, I would remove the box and
install a proper fridge (or 2 fridges). My Euros is a 41 but I think
they perform the same under sail (7-8 knots maximum I got).

I have the workshop manual for the Volvo Penta MD21A (75 HP), but I
do not know if this one is your engine model.

Regards
Jose_Luis


--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "matt" <russisland@...> wrote:

Thanks Jose Luis:)

yes, the keel step(boot)is rusty and my plan is to blast whole
underwater section with the clean llmenite about 0.2-0.5 grid then
get to the first layer of fiberglass to fix small patches which
where
repaired with polyester(!?!), yes someone have no much idea and
now
blisters all over the underwater hull area.
I'll try to find good diesel mechanic, but-yes-motor must go on the
bench-time for rebuilt as cylinders glazed and is a bit smoky; runs
only @ 50+C-much to cold for a diesel. The original eutectic system
will be replaced in the future with the 12V danfoss refrigeration.
Cutlass bearing is loose as well and only way to change it is to
pull
shaft from inside...just yesterday finished stripping the ruder and
in
the top corner found rot under the glass-the bores done it 'great'
job
but this one will be easy as the ruder is laminated hardwood-this
section will be cut out and replaced with the new timber then
glassed
with the cloth.
The dodger has been removed already and I'll make new perspex for
it
too as well all portholes and acrylics in the openings crazed and
must be replaced. As you can see anything I touch must be replaced
or
change. Shame boat like this was run down by lack of use and
regular
maintenance and I think so far this is the only Amel Euros in
Queensland, Australia-if not only one in the whole country?:)
Any idea about the design for a practical david's as the original
was
just a single one(!)? I need to afix few solar panels and wind
generator but I'm bit concern about changing to much sailing
characteristic and performance for this design?
More about working progress in few days time:)
Best Regards
magic
SV DARIEN



--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "Jose_Luis Isasi"
<jose.luis.isasi@> wrote:

Hi,

I made the down part of the hull. I took off all layers of
painting
to check integrity of the hull (it was perfect). Then I applied
special epoxi coat for iron to the ballast keel. And the rest
epoxi
for fiberglass.
I did not want to cover the iron keel with fiberglass because
there
is always leaks, and the keel can corrode without knowing it. I
prefer to see if there is corrosion everytime I haul the boat and
solve it. I spent about 3000 euros in this (made by a
professional).

An advice: To change the cutlass bearing (shaft bearing), you
will
need to move the shaft from stern to bow in order to remove it,
due
to the skeg. That means that you will need to overhaul the engine
in
this case. So, if you plan to overhaul the engine for repair,
take
the opportunity to replace the shaft bearing at the same time. My
mechanic took the measures and made it done in some plastic. In
fact
he asked for 2 units to be done, so I could have an spare one for
the
future.

The engine has the tow hook near the entrance, so you will need
to
dismount the windshield and move the roof forward, in order to do
a
vertical tow.

Regards
Jose Luis




--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "matt" <russisland@>
wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "matt" <russisland@>
wrote:

Hi,
I'm new to the group-looking for the other owners of Amel
Euros
39ft-to
exchange comments and ideas about this design:)
I'm in Oz and new owner of 'DARIEN' Euros No.88
Best Regards
matt
Hi guys,

thanks a lot for your feedback:)

The Euros#88 I own now, was in the 'drink'without hull out for
the
last 10+ years...sad story-it was rented as trailer and of
course
no
maintenance etc. apparently was twice on the river and the rest
of
her
life in trawler harbor.Painted by hand with the two-pack and
stripped
from 60lt/hr Dessalator watermaker(what model this was?)I have
a
BIG
project ahead but I couldn't resist the lines of this beaut!:-D
AWESOME...and with the oversize rig (EUROS 41)she even won
races.Strange for the ketch, hey?;)

She was equip with the NECO autopilot with the mechanical drive
on
the
port deck next to galley portlight(!!!)Massive unit and such a
hazard
in bad weather?!

After 10+years and 5800Hrs on the motor she make it nice few
miles
trip to the hard stand with 4-6Knts on the top off the tide
idling.
I found heaps of info, manuals even blue print of original
sails
from
1969.
The work will commence as soon as weather permits.
I'm on the budget as many of us but I'll try my best to bring
back
a
little spark to this amazing design.
My last boat was alloy Ovni, sadly lost in Feb. storm in Airlie
Beach,
Queensland, Australia-but this one will see the blue water one
day
again.
I PROMISE:-)))

Please sent photos and any/all info you can get about this
design
eg.
rig, specs etc. I think every bit will help.
Soon I'll try upload few pics.
But for now thanks ahead to all who can help with any info.

Best Regards

magic
SV DARIEN
AMEL EUROS #88

P.S. the Hungarian site was down now for few months-I think he
just
moved on?