Date   
Morse MT3 manual?

George Green
 

Does anyone have an online copy of an MT3 manual for this throttle assembly fitted on many Amels?

Many thanks
George

Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, water maker?

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Right, Matt, I should have addressed it to Ruedi, I guess.
Craig
On Fri, Aug 16, 2019 at 08:26 AM, Matt Salatino wrote:
Thanks,
I understand the issue, but since we’re getting a 50, I didn’t know the locations of the speed paddle wheel, or the depth transducer. I was just repeating what another owner posted a few weeks earlier.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 16, 2019, at 4:32 AM, Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> wrote:

Matt,
They are talking about your knot meter transducer where it goes through the hull bottom. Don't know if you have a paddlewheel style, but that's the bit. Remove the paddlewheel, like you would do to clean it and stick the humidifier drain hose through the hole. Wrap it in cloth to keep bugs out. If you have a sonic speed, then your won't have a thru-hull fitting, but you can pull out your depth sounder transducer instead and use that thru-hull hole.
Craig SN68 Sangaris

On Thu, Aug 15, 2019 at 06:51 PM, Matt Salatino wrote:
I wish I knew. 
Help, somebody!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 15, 2019, at 10:34 AM, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Hi Matt
Excuse my ingorance, but can you tell me where the "knot meter sensor hole is"?
I have no Idea? Maybe I think just on the wrong end?
Regards
Ruedi
Wasabi
A54#55


On 12 Aug 2019, at 23:48, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

Someone previously posted a great idea. Drain the dehumidifier out the removed knot meter sensor hole. 

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 12, 2019, at 9:16 AM, SY STELLA <stella@...> wrote:

Hi Miles, ok that pump might be the way to go.  I have also just ordered a couple of 160W tube heaters which I intend to run over winter. One in the engine room and one in the galley.
High tech incandescent lamps!

Also considering a dehumidifier, but need to find somewhere to drain the fluid. Back home in Sydney I use one in another boat (because of wet racing sails, not cold damp weather) and it drains down the galley sink.
However on the Amel it seems a bit crazy to put the fluid into the bilge, then have to rely on the bulge pump!

Cheers
Dean
SY Stella
A54-154
Anchored off Jura, Scotland

X


 Right - I should have addresed it to Ruedi, I guess.

Re: When to use Running Back Stays and Onan Control Board PCB

Scott SV Tengah
 

Joerg,

That would be great to see the pics. Our single 18 line is not easy to deploy/put away so we end up using it much less than we would like. What do you do with the storage block/tackle when the runners are in use? Clip to the stanchion?


--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, water maker?

Matt Salatino
 

Thanks,
I understand the issue, but since we’re getting a 50, I didn’t know the locations of the speed paddle wheel, or the depth transducer. I was just repeating what another owner posted a few weeks earlier.

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 16, 2019, at 4:32 AM, Craig Briggs via Groups.Io <sangaris@...> wrote:

Matt,
They are talking about your knot meter transducer where it goes through the hull bottom. Don't know if you have a paddlewheel style, but that's the bit. Remove the paddlewheel, like you would do to clean it and stick the humidifier drain hose through the hole. Wrap it in cloth to keep bugs out. If you have a sonic speed, then your won't have a thru-hull fitting, but you can pull out your depth sounder transducer instead and use that thru-hull hole.
Craig SN68 Sangaris

On Thu, Aug 15, 2019 at 06:51 PM, Matt Salatino wrote:
I wish I knew. 
Help, somebody!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 15, 2019, at 10:34 AM, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Hi Matt
Excuse my ingorance, but can you tell me where the "knot meter sensor hole is"?
I have no Idea? Maybe I think just on the wrong end?
Regards
Ruedi
Wasabi
A54#55


On 12 Aug 2019, at 23:48, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

Someone previously posted a great idea. Drain the dehumidifier out the removed knot meter sensor hole. 

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 12, 2019, at 9:16 AM, SY STELLA <stella@...> wrote:

Hi Miles, ok that pump might be the way to go.  I have also just ordered a couple of 160W tube heaters which I intend to run over winter. One in the engine room and one in the galley.
High tech incandescent lamps!

Also considering a dehumidifier, but need to find somewhere to drain the fluid. Back home in Sydney I use one in another boat (because of wet racing sails, not cold damp weather) and it drains down the galley sink.
However on the Amel it seems a bit crazy to put the fluid into the bilge, then have to rely on the bulge pump!

Cheers
Dean
SY Stella
A54-154
Anchored off Jura, Scotland

X

Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, water maker?

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

Matt,
They are talking about your knot meter transducer where it goes through the hull bottom. Don't know if you have a paddlewheel style, but that's the bit. Remove the paddlewheel, like you would do to clean it and stick the humidifier drain hose through the hole. Wrap it in cloth to keep bugs out. If you have a sonic speed, then your won't have a thru-hull fitting, but you can pull out your depth sounder transducer instead and use that thru-hull hole.
Craig SN68 Sangaris


On Thu, Aug 15, 2019 at 06:51 PM, Matt Salatino wrote:
I wish I knew. 
Help, somebody!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 15, 2019, at 10:34 AM, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Hi Matt
Excuse my ingorance, but can you tell me where the "knot meter sensor hole is"?
I have no Idea? Maybe I think just on the wrong end?
Regards
Ruedi
Wasabi
A54#55


On 12 Aug 2019, at 23:48, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

Someone previously posted a great idea. Drain the dehumidifier out the removed knot meter sensor hole. 

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 12, 2019, at 9:16 AM, SY STELLA <stella@...> wrote:

Hi Miles, ok that pump might be the way to go.  I have also just ordered a couple of 160W tube heaters which I intend to run over winter. One in the engine room and one in the galley.
High tech incandescent lamps!

Also considering a dehumidifier, but need to find somewhere to drain the fluid. Back home in Sydney I use one in another boat (because of wet racing sails, not cold damp weather) and it drains down the galley sink.
However on the Amel it seems a bit crazy to put the fluid into the bilge, then have to rely on the bulge pump!

Cheers
Dean
SY Stella
A54-154
Anchored off Jura, Scotland

X

Re: Upper C-Drive oil leak

John Clark
 

Hi Eamonn,

   The other replies are correct that there are no connections at the neoprene hose that would leak oil.  I noted in your description that you said the leak rate was "50ml/hr of run time."  I assume that means the oil is leaking only when the drive is engaged.  This tells me it is likely the input shaft seal leaking.  Other sealed points I would expect to leak all the time if comprimised(the drive is always full due to the oil resevoir).
 Why it is leaking remains a question.  Could be a damaged bearing in the drive unit or the drive shaft flexible coupling making the input shaft wander when there is load on it.  

It could also be an older worn shaft seal that just decided to start leaking around the same time.  Anyone else have thoughts?


John
SV Annie SM #37
Brunswick GA

              



On Thu, Aug 15, 2019 at 12:04 PM Eamonn Washington <eamonn.washington@...> wrote:
A week ago my C-Drive started leaking oil into the engine room.  While doing 1000RPM on the Volvo TDM22 a rope wrapped 20 times around the short shaft of the Maxprop and within seconds stalled the engine.  Then the slow leak started (of the 8L 80W90 oil), where the rubber (neoprene?) hose connects with the floor of the engine room.  About 50ml leaks per hour of running time.  I tightened the 2 upper and 2 lower hose clamps, but it did not stop the leak.

The engine runs fine, the gears work fine.  What can I do to fix the leak and verify there is no other damage?  

Thanks
Eamonn Washington
Travel Bug
Super Maramu #151
Currently in Calasetta, Sardinia, Italy.

Re: When to use Running Back Stays and Onan Control Board PCB

Joerg Esdorn
 

Scott, the runners on my boat are in two parts.  Part one comes down from the mast and ends in a loop 1 m above the deck and is tensioned with a block and tackle to the base of the shrouds with a snap shackle for storage when the runners are not in use.  Part two ends with a snap shackle  that hooks into the loop at the end of part one and the other end runs through the spin sheet block to the spinnaker winch.  When you use the runners, you unhook the shackle of the “storage” block and tackle and hook part two into the loop at the end of part one.  I’m not on the boat for another week but can post some pictures when I do.  Meanwhile I hope this helps. 

Joerg Esdorn
A55 Kincsem

Re: Amel is going lithium

Teun BAAS
 

Last year I paid about EURO2,500 via a NEW CALEDONIA dealer plus installation.

Can confirm NO noise; NO vibration at all – it is mounted on the solar arch.

 

Best Regards Teun

SV AMELIT  A54  #128

 

PORT VILA  VANUATU

August 16, 2019 14:29:03

 

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> On Behalf Of Joerg Esdorn via Groups.Io
Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2019 16:34
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Amel is going lithium

 

I don’t know current pricing.  The generator and mizzen attachment was about 3K 2 years ago but I believe prices have gone up.  Definitely cheaper to have more solar but I like the mix of power sources.   Cheers. Joerg 

Re: When to use Running Back Stays and Onan Control Board PCB

Scott SV Tengah
 

Joerg,

Great article, but it seems some of the photos are missing. I am curious how the "backstay extension" works. I simply have a pair of 18m long 10mm kevlar lines that I keep on the stanchions near the mast using a simple trucker's hitch. It's not elegant because there's a lot of leftover which I take care of using a rolling hitch.

Then the article starts talking about a storage tackle for the running backstay! Do you have this backstay extension and the storage tackle?

Can you repost with all the pics? I have a feeling I may have been doing it wrong all along, not an unlikely situation. Thanks.
--
Scott 
2007 A54 #69
SV Tengah
http://www.svtengah.com

Re: Fiji Pearl rendezvous

Ken Powers SV Aquarius
 

Yes, this has worked for me and if the depth is 10 meters I can see
out about 30 to 40 meters in front of me, if the depth is 70 meters I
can see usually see out about 80 meters. This gives me enough time to
slow down if there is something in front, and EchoPilot has saved us a
few times!

One of the most valuable pieces of equipment on Aquarius!

Ken

On 8/15/19, Paul Osterberg <@Kerpa> wrote:
You mean the EchoPilot 2d professional? It has a realistic price also
Paul



Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, water maker?

Matt Salatino
 

I wish I knew. 
Help, somebody!

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 15, 2019, at 10:34 AM, Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:

Hi Matt
Excuse my ingorance, but can you tell me where the "knot meter sensor hole is"?
I have no Idea? Maybe I think just on the wrong end?
Regards
Ruedi
Wasabi
A54#55


On 12 Aug 2019, at 23:48, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

Someone previously posted a great idea. Drain the dehumidifier out the removed knot meter sensor hole. 

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 12, 2019, at 9:16 AM, SY STELLA <stella@...> wrote:

Hi Miles, ok that pump might be the way to go.  I have also just ordered a couple of 160W tube heaters which I intend to run over winter. One in the engine room and one in the galley.
High tech incandescent lamps!

Also considering a dehumidifier, but need to find somewhere to drain the fluid. Back home in Sydney I use one in another boat (because of wet racing sails, not cold damp weather) and it drains down the galley sink.
However on the Amel it seems a bit crazy to put the fluid into the bilge, then have to rely on the bulge pump!

Cheers
Dean
SY Stella
A54-154
Anchored off Jura, Scotland

X


Re: When to use Running Back Stays and Onan Control Board PCB

Alan Leslie
 

I wouldn't trust a little block like that. Our dyneema runners when in use go from the mast at the attachment point of the inner forestay and connect to a 2:1 polyseter rig with the a fairly large block attached to the lifting plate and then using the aft cockpit winch. When noit in use the runners are held down and forward by a 2:1 rig attached tio a stanchion and to the runner with a snatch hook.
The rig needs to be strong, its holding your mast straighjt!
Cheers
Alan
Elyse SM437

Re: Upper C-Drive oil leak

Craig & Katherine Briggs SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL
 

The various suggestions to identify the leak are, of course, germane. This does sound to me, though, like the upper shaft seal is leaking - it drips down in a subtle way and it's hard to figure out where the oil is coming from.

It's an easy fix - just detach the drive shaft coupling, scoot the engine back a bit, remove some retaining bits off the shaft (big hand sledges and chisels-as-wedges may help), then pull the old shaft seal and replace - it's a 60-90-10 single lip rotary shaft seal - don't need a stainless steel garter, but do goosh it up with grease. 

Then again, we're all just guessing at the source of the leak :-)
Good luck with it - let us know what you find.

Beers, Craig SN 68 Sangaris Tropic Isle Harbor, FL 

Re: Upper C-Drive oil leak

eric freedman
 

Hi Bill,

Paper towels are good. However they also absorb water. If there is some water nearby they will confuse the issue. Oilzorb pads do not absorb water.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of CW Bill Rouse
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2019 4:58 PM
To: main@amelyachtowners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Upper C-Drive oil leak

 

Or, paper towels.

 

Best,

 

CW Bill Rouse

720 Winnie St

Galveston Island, TX 77550

+1(832) 380-4970

 

 

On Thu, Aug 15, 2019 at 3:46 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

When I have an unknown leak, I cover the area with oilzorb pads.

and check the engine and tranny every 15 minutes.

It is easier to find the approximate area where the oil is coming using the oil pads.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Will Stout via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2019 3:11 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Upper C-Drive oil leak

 

Eamonn,
I was getting a small amount of oil which would pool (we are talking a thimble full or so) on top of the c-drive.  What I found was two issues:  1)  one of the hose from the reservoir was leaking.  The hose was actually slightly oversized for the nipples on both the c-drive and the reservoir.  A new more flexible hose and tighter clamping resolved the problem.  2) I was also over filling the reservoir.  The C-drive when working heats up quite a bit around 160 degrees and the expansion of the oil was more than the reservoir could hold when filled to the "full" mark and oil would come out the filler cap run down the hose and end up on the top of the c-drive.  I have started keeping my oil level closer to the add oil mark and have not had the problem re-occur.  

However, when your engine stalled you  applied a lot of force to the c-drive.  I am sure you know this.  If my simple answers above don't help.   Have you tried just tightening all the bolts that hold the unit together?  If you are not getting sea water into the reservoir it might be that snugging things up might help.  That C-drive is a very robust unit and I believe you would be more likely to damage your transmission or engine than the c-drive with a stall as you described.  I would think you could see the leak if the seal was leaking inside the engine room.

Good Luck,

Will Stout
SM # 180, Anni Bea True
For sale in Annapolis, MD

Re: Upper C-Drive oil leak

 

Or, paper towels.

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Thu, Aug 15, 2019 at 3:46 PM eric freedman <kimberlite@...> wrote:

When I have an unknown leak, I cover the area with oilzorb pads.

and check the engine and tranny every 15 minutes.

It is easier to find the approximate area where the oil is coming using the oil pads.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Will Stout via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2019 3:11 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Upper C-Drive oil leak

 

Eamonn,
I was getting a small amount of oil which would pool (we are talking a thimble full or so) on top of the c-drive.  What I found was two issues:  1)  one of the hose from the reservoir was leaking.  The hose was actually slightly oversized for the nipples on both the c-drive and the reservoir.  A new more flexible hose and tighter clamping resolved the problem.  2) I was also over filling the reservoir.  The C-drive when working heats up quite a bit around 160 degrees and the expansion of the oil was more than the reservoir could hold when filled to the "full" mark and oil would come out the filler cap run down the hose and end up on the top of the c-drive.  I have started keeping my oil level closer to the add oil mark and have not had the problem re-occur.  

However, when your engine stalled you  applied a lot of force to the c-drive.  I am sure you know this.  If my simple answers above don't help.   Have you tried just tightening all the bolts that hold the unit together?  If you are not getting sea water into the reservoir it might be that snugging things up might help.  That C-drive is a very robust unit and I believe you would be more likely to damage your transmission or engine than the c-drive with a stall as you described.  I would think you could see the leak if the seal was leaking inside the engine room.

Good Luck,

Will Stout
SM # 180, Anni Bea True
For sale in Annapolis, MD

Re: Upper C-Drive oil leak

eric freedman
 

When I have an unknown leak, I cover the area with oilzorb pads.

and check the engine and tranny every 15 minutes.

It is easier to find the approximate area where the oil is coming using the oil pads.

Fair Winds

Eric

Kimberlite Amel Super Maramu #376

 

 

From: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io [mailto:main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io] On Behalf Of Will Stout via Groups.Io
Sent: Thursday, August 15, 2019 3:11 PM
To: main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io
Subject: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Upper C-Drive oil leak

 

Eamonn,
I was getting a small amount of oil which would pool (we are talking a thimble full or so) on top of the c-drive.  What I found was two issues:  1)  one of the hose from the reservoir was leaking.  The hose was actually slightly oversized for the nipples on both the c-drive and the reservoir.  A new more flexible hose and tighter clamping resolved the problem.  2) I was also over filling the reservoir.  The C-drive when working heats up quite a bit around 160 degrees and the expansion of the oil was more than the reservoir could hold when filled to the "full" mark and oil would come out the filler cap run down the hose and end up on the top of the c-drive.  I have started keeping my oil level closer to the add oil mark and have not had the problem re-occur.  

However, when your engine stalled you  applied a lot of force to the c-drive.  I am sure you know this.  If my simple answers above don't help.   Have you tried just tightening all the bolts that hold the unit together?  If you are not getting sea water into the reservoir it might be that snugging things up might help.  That C-drive is a very robust unit and I believe you would be more likely to damage your transmission or engine than the c-drive with a stall as you described.  I would think you could see the leak if the seal was leaking inside the engine room.

Good Luck,

Will Stout
SM # 180, Anni Bea True
For sale in Annapolis, MD

Re: Access to water maker panel AMEL54

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Hi Alex,

 

Yes, it’s the only way to have good access. I had the same issue with mine when I changed the High-pressure hose.

 

In the cockpit compartment (on the forward side), below the water-tank inlet you’ll find a wood cover which you can unscrew. You will see the water-hoses going into the backside of the panel.

You can pull/push them a bit, - also from the engine room you can push the high pressure hose up. You can pull softly the panel after you released the hoses in the back. 

Thereafter you get enough space the have better access to the panel from the galley. 

 

Hope this helps, regards

Ruedi 

 

"SY WASABI"

Amel 54. #55

 

MMSI: 269322000  

Call Sign: HBY3811

 


Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of Alexander Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Donnerstag, 15. August 2019 um 16:34
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: [AmelYachtOwners] Access to water maker panel AMEL54

Dear Amelians,
is the only way to access behind the water maker panel from the front? If I take away the 4 screws there is a lot of resistance.  I realize not all 54's have it at the same place, mine is in the middle, above the sinks.
Thanks!
Alex
SY NO STRESS
AMEL54 #15

Re: Upper C-Drive oil leak

Will Stout <tango708@...>
 

Eamonn,
I was getting a small amount of oil which would pool (we are talking a thimble full or so) on top of the c-drive.  What I found was two issues:  1)  one of the hose from the reservoir was leaking.  The hose was actually slightly oversized for the nipples on both the c-drive and the reservoir.  A new more flexible hose and tighter clamping resolved the problem.  2) I was also over filling the reservoir.  The C-drive when working heats up quite a bit around 160 degrees and the expansion of the oil was more than the reservoir could hold when filled to the "full" mark and oil would come out the filler cap run down the hose and end up on the top of the c-drive.  I have started keeping my oil level closer to the add oil mark and have not had the problem re-occur.  

However, when your engine stalled you  applied a lot of force to the c-drive.  I am sure you know this.  If my simple answers above don't help.   Have you tried just tightening all the bolts that hold the unit together?  If you are not getting sea water into the reservoir it might be that snugging things up might help.  That C-drive is a very robust unit and I believe you would be more likely to damage your transmission or engine than the c-drive with a stall as you described.  I would think you could see the leak if the seal was leaking inside the engine room.

Good Luck,

Will Stout
SM # 180, Anni Bea True
For sale in Annapolis, MD

Re: Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, water maker?

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Bill,

 

Thanks a lot that help, - as always your advices is very precise!

 

I was thinking about it, but I thought about when wintering the Boat in water. In this case it’s not possible. I got now the message ;-)

 

Thanks

Ruedi


Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io> on behalf of CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Donnerstag, 15. August 2019 um 20:18
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] Wintering in potentially freezing conditions, water maker?

Ruedi,

He is referring to a Speed Transducer fitted in a through-hull fitting. You do not have one, unless your 54 has been changed. However, you do have a Depth Transducer fitted in a through-hull fitting. This is located under the floor and forward of the watertight bulkhead separating the salon from the forward berths. If your 54 is on the hard, you could remove the Depth Transducer and use the through-hull fitting to place the dehumidifier drain hose through.

When anyone is considering purchasing a dehumidifier for this purpose, it must have two features: 
1) When power is lost and returns, it will automatically restart. 
2) The ability to connect a drain hose. 
Many models do not have these two important features. 

Best,

CW Bill Rouse
720 Winnie St
Galveston Island, TX 77550
+1(832) 380-4970



On Thu, Aug 15, 2019 at 12:34 PM Rudolf Waldispuehl <Rudolf@...> wrote:
Hi Matt
Excuse my ingorance, but can you tell me where the "knot meter sensor hole is"?
I have no Idea? Maybe I think just on the wrong end?
Regards
Ruedi
Wasabi
A54#55


On 12 Aug 2019, at 23:48, Matt Salatino via Groups.Io <helmsmatt@...> wrote:

Someone previously posted a great idea. Drain the dehumidifier out the removed knot meter sensor hole. 

~~~⛵️~~~Matt

On Aug 12, 2019, at 9:16 AM, SY STELLA <stella@...> wrote:

Hi Miles, ok that pump might be the way to go.  I have also just ordered a couple of 160W tube heaters which I intend to run over winter. One in the engine room and one in the galley.
High tech incandescent lamps!

Also considering a dehumidifier, but need to find somewhere to drain the fluid. Back home in Sydney I use one in another boat (because of wet racing sails, not cold damp weather) and it drains down the galley sink.
However on the Amel it seems a bit crazy to put the fluid into the bilge, then have to rely on the bulge pump!

Cheers
Dean
SY Stella
A54-154
Anchored off Jura, Scotland

X


Re: B&G Hydra / Furuno System For Sale

Rudolf Waldispuehl
 

Sorry for the typo:

It¹s ruedi (at) waldispuehl (dot) ch.
or
Rudolf at Waldispuehl dot ch.

Best rgds.
Ruedi

Am 14.08.19, 09:13 schrieb "Gerald Bassin" unter
<main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io on behalf of gerald.bassin@...>:

Hi Ruedi

Could you please complete your email address? ...(dot)....

Brgrds

Gerald


On 13/08/2019 17:00, Rudolf Waldispuehl wrote:
Hi everybody

If someone is still interested in Hydra2000 or Furuno Equipment
removed from an Amel54 (2007).
- B&G Hydra2000 & Hydra Instruments, - B&G Processor,
- Furuno NAVnet Chart-Ploter, Furuno AIS FA30 incl. Lorenz VHF Antenna
Spliter, Furuno Network Sounder ETR-6/10N, Furuno Heading Sensor,

Please drop me a E-mail on ruedi (at) waldispuehl (dot). I'll send you
pictures so you can see the details and make an offer.
Ruedi

"SY WASABI"
Amel 54. #55
MMSI: 269322000
Call Sign: HBY3811

Von: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
on behalf of Seckin Barlas <seckinbar@...>
Antworten an: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io"
<main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Datum: Dienstag, 6. August 2019 um 10:19
An: "main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io" <main@AmelYachtOwners.groups.io>
Betreff: Re: [AmelYachtOwners] B & G Hydra System For Sale

Hi Elaine;

I would be interested in BG hydra system.
Can you pleae give me info about the price locationŠetc
seckinbar@...

Seckin
SY HAYAT
SM76

On 3 Aug 2019, at 06:40, Elaine Leishman via Groups.Io
<leishman.elaine=yahoo.com.au@groups.io> wrote:
Selling B & G hydra system as removed from 1999 Super Maramu.
Working, except for a fault with the wind transducer. Sonic speed
sensors are brand new, never installed. Will package and post
worldwide. Contact Elaine via the group. We also have a lot of
spare parts for the Volvo Penta engine and the Onan genset.
Elaine
SM 251 Nebo


Links:
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[1] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/message/47368
[2] https://groups.io/mt/32853356/1768002
[3] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/post
[4] https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/editsub/1768002
[5]
https://AmelYachtOwners.groups.io/g/main/leave/defanged