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Re: Dripless shaft seal
James Alton
Arlo,
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I was wondering if it might be a good idea to ask Tides if the hose you are ordering is meant for use with the traditional stuffing box? I could be wrong but it appears that the hose in the link given is used for the dripless shaft seal that they sell as I did not see a mention of it being used in regular stuffing boxes. I think that a traditional stuffing box that is dry, overtightened or grossly out of alignment can develop a lot more resistance than a shaft seal so a heavier/stronger hose might be desirable. The Algonquin Shaft Log Hose is 3/8” wall and has 5 layers of reinforcement in it and seems to be pretty bullet proof, unfortunately I don’t see the exact size listed that you need, 1/8” off. Since the hose does not have any wire in it perhaps you can squeeze the 1/8” gap but I would ask someone knowledgeable at Buck Algonquin on this before trying it. I would suggest going with the teflon impregnated packing and get a good quality. The size needed is normally related to the shaft size. An easy way to check the size packing needed is to back off the packing nut completely, hold the packing nut square to the shaft and to then insert drill bits of various sizes until you find the correct one. With the butt of the correct sized drill bit inserted the packing nut should be in alignment with the shaft. Best of luck, James Maramu #220
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Re: Cleaning the worst parts of an Amel
James Alton
Arno,
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A portable wet dry vac that can suck up screw drivers out of the bilge? It sounds like you may possibly have found the Ultimate “Amel Vacuum”! Bill R. has pointed out many times on the board the value of having a wet dry vac on the boat and after getting a big clunky 220V unit that we can unfortunately only run dockside I am convinced that he is on target. I had no idea that the portable battery powered units had reached the level of suction that you are reporting. How nice it would be to have a wet dry that did not rely on dockside or genset power so was available for use anytime. Thanks Arno for taking the time to post your cleaning solution, I am going to see about getting one of these vacuums to replace the big 220V unit we are now carrying. Hopefully they are available in Greece… I would also like to add that while regular bilge cleaning is less critical on my Maramu with the overboard galley sink drain it is still IMO really important to keep the bilge clear of any foreign objects that can clog a pump in an emergency. With the depth of the bilge in my Maramu a wet dry vac is probably the only way to really pick up those potential pump cloggers. I am always amazed at how much one can learn from the amazing group of people on the Amel board. Thanks to all that contribute and Happy Holidays! James and Joann SV Sueno Maramu #220
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Re: Cleaning the worst parts of an Amel
Porter McRoberts
This is a very good process! Thank you Arno! We would like a high pressure water sprayer (looking for a small one) but good dockside pressure can work as well. A little simple green overnight in the bilge can help emulsify. The crazy part of the process is that your Siri knew I had an Uncle Bob!
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Made me laugh! Anyway. Great summary and thank you! Porter A-54-152 off the boat in Fort Lauderdale. Excuse the errors. Sent from my IPhone Www.fouribis.com
On Dec 13, 2019, at 12:00 PM, Arno Luijten <arno.luijten@...> wrote:
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Cleaning the worst parts of an Amel
Most of us really like our Amels. We like the clever way it has been thought out and such. However some choices have their drawbacks.
My least favorite parts to clean on our 54 are the Grey water bilge and the raw water strainer. Having tried a few ways to perform the tasks I think I have found a fairly good way to do it now that I would like to share for those that are still trying to make the task easier. It involves a Milwaukee M18 battery operated wet/dry portable vacuum cleaner and a small (Kärcher) high pressure cleaner. The latter is one of the smallest you can buy and is also excellent in removing the salt of the deck and things after a (rough) sail) I connect the HP cleaner to the water outlet at the helm seat. To clean the water strainer I close the sea-cock (turn off Fridges and A/C first), open the lid of the strainer and BEFORE removing the strainer-insert I first use the shop-vac to suck out the the water and crud. Next I remove the insert and use the shop vac to suck out as much as possible water and crud as I can. Next clean the insert (it can be separated into two halves to make it easier). Put the strainer back together and Bob is your Uncle. This way you prevent the crud from entering the outlet pipe when you remove the insert. For the grey water bilge use your manual bilge pump first to get a much as possible water out. Next use the pressure washer to do a first clean of the bilge. This can be very smelly! Remove the water with the manual bilge pump. Again use the pressure washer to stir things up in the bilge. Now use the shop vac with a piece of hose attached to suck the water and crud out of the bilge. Keep the end of the hose just at the waterline so the shop-vac sucks a water-air mixture. When empty use the pressure washer again to clean the bottom of the bilge and the Shop-vac to suck out the water/crud mixture. Do not forget to empty the shop-vac regularly as it fills up quite fast! Repeat the process until the bilge is clean. The fist time I did this it was almost a treasure hunt. I retrieved screws, bolts, nuts and even a screwdriver from the abyss. It also enables you to inspect the grounding strap and keel bolt that sits at the bottom. Hopefully the story above is to someones help. Regards, Arno Luijten, SV Luna, A54-121
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Re: Dripless shaft seal
Arlo
I called Tides this morning and they plan to ship the hose to me today for delivery tomorrow. Anyone know what size flax to use with the stock stuffing box ?
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Re: Manuals and instructions of the Amel Sharki 1982 Nr 53.
Aras <aras.grinius@...>
As a Sharki owner (163) I spoke to Bill Rouse about adding sections in for Maramu’s and Sharki’s. He thought it might be a good idea.
If you perform repairs you need to document the steps you take and take pictures of those steps. I have done some, but they need editing. This is where Bill is great. His Amel book has been extremely helpful in sorting out stuff on Amel. Hopefully I’ll get some time to organize my pics and get Bill to help publish them. Aras Sharki # 163 1988
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Re: Stern tube hose
Danny Rico <danny.rico@...>
Amazonhose.com. it’s in north miami.
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Re: Sidepower SP 155 TCi needed
JEFFREY KRAUS
Alex,
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They may refurbish your existing motor. You would need to remove it, and ship it to them. They would look it over to determine whether it is worth doing or not and let you know their opinion. Considering you'll be laid up for a while, it may be worth considering. Just a thought. Best Regards, Jeff s/v Spirit 54 #14 Puerto Real, PR
On December 12, 2019 at 12:45 PM Alexander Ramseyer <alexramseyer@...> wrote:
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Re: refrigeration compressor
JEFFREY KRAUS
Thanks Mark, your information was helpful.
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Best Regards, Jeff
On December 11, 2019 at 9:27 AM Mark & Debbie Mueller <brass.ring@...> wrote:
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Re: What is this black gasket
Danny and Yvonne SIMMS
Thanks Bill Danny
On 13 December 2019 at 17:16 CW Bill Rouse <brouse@...> wrote:
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Re: Prop to Zinc Connection
Beaute Olivier
Hello Stephan, It's nice to hear from you. I remember the handover of your SM in la Rochelle... How many nautical miles since? The 2 to 50 ohms findings look like a bad contact issue. First check your measurements contacts. Did you check the zincs on the zinc but also on the stainless steel bolt. I once checked a rudder zinc that was held with a stainless steel bolt and...a plastic washer!! Make sure all places where you connect your meter are very clean. You should also try to check the resistance between one zinc(and bolt) and the rudder shaft at pintle bearing. If you still have this 2 to 50 ohm measurement, it means that the bolt connection to the rudder inside plates is not good. You should then drill a new hole and tap it to relocate your zinc. Did you check the connection of the yellow/green cable at top of the rudder shaft, on quadrant? You should last ly check the resistance between the rudder shaft's top and the engine cradle, as the cable between could be damaged. Good luck. Olivier. .
On Thursday, December 12, 2019, 06:26:21 PM GMT+1, Stephan Regulinski via Groups.Io <stephreg@...> wrote:
Bonjour Olivier, But from prop shaft to zincs on the rudder I got a range of measurements between 2 and 50 Ohms, depending on movement of the propeller. I measured 0.2 Ohms from bonding wire on the C Drive to zincs on the rudder. Any idea why this could occur? Should I do something to correct?
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Re: What is this black gasket
Danny, you are correct. Best, CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Wed, Dec 11, 2019, 9:43 PM Danny and Yvonne SIMMS <simms@...> wrote:
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Re: What is this black gasket
Pat I think you have it. Thanks Best, CW Bill Rouse Amel Owners Yacht School - www.AmelOwnersYachtSchool.com 720 Winnie St Galveston Island, TX 77550 +1(832) 380-4970
On Thu, Dec 12, 2019, 7:17 AM Patrick McAneny via Groups.Io <sailw32=aol.com@groups.io> wrote:
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Re: Stern tube hose
Arlo
Thanks Matt. I will give them a call tomorrow...
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Re: Dripless shaft seal
Arlo
Thanks Matt, I was not aware that they carried that hose. I will call them tomorrow and see if its recommended for the application. Stay tuned....really appreciate the assistance
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Re: Dripless shaft seal
I sent this 1 1/2 hours ago: ~~~⛵️~~~Matt
On Dec 12, 2019, at 6:19 PM, Arlo <svplanb@...> wrote:
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Re: Dripless shaft seal
Arlo
James or Wade, were you able to find the shaft tube hose in the US anywhere? I cannot find a supplier for the 2 1/8 or 54 mm size hose....
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Re: Stern tube hose
I did a quick search and found one in the US:
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On Dec 12, 2019, at 3:33 PM, Arlo <svplanb@...> wrote:
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Re: SM holding tank internal details
Mark McGovern
Mike,
I have what I would call a "European" spec SM so I don't even have a pumpout riser in my holding tank at all. I just have a hole in the deck with a plug. I actually had to make a hose with a pumpout fitting on the end of it in order to pump out the holding tank. I call it my "poop straw". In the photo album link I sent Bill Rouse has a sketch of his holding tank where he shows the inlet to the holding tank being a straight 38mm bronze pipe that is glassed into the holding tank at the bottom of the tank and extends upwards towards the top of the tank: https://amelyachtowners.groups.io/g/main/photo/84526/12?p=Created,,,20,2,0,0 This is the setup that I seem to have on Cara. There are also several pictures of completely corroded outlet pipes in the folder. One could only surmise that the inlet pipes will suffer the same fate and that it is only a matter of time before we all will be replacing these. -- Mark McGovern SM #440 Cara Deale, MD USA
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Re: SM holding tank internal details
Mike Ondra
Hi Mark. Thanks. And this is for others who may have a configuration nearer to ours.
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I believe the pumpout riser is probably the same. However In our hull #240, with manual pump, the riser from the toilet enters the bottom of the tank and apparent continues inside the tank to discharge near the top. That is the piece I am trying to get a handle on. Perhaps this riser is external in later models, a hugely better idea. Mike
On Dec 12, 2019, at 2:08 PM, Mark McGovern <mfmcgovern@...> wrote:
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