Date   

(No subject)

BeyersWF
 

Miles,
I had an inverter and 110 VAC circuits added to my '82 Mango. Running
the 110 VAC things was beating up the batteries badly. Constantly adding water
and eventually failing batteries. So I had the 220 VAC split, like in your
home, and powered the 110 VAC circuites off the 220 VAC 60 cycle shore power.
Took a new, slick and expensive VAC panel but worth it. When away from the
dock, I use the inverter and batteries. The 220 VAC appliances I inherited with
the boat work fine on 220 VAC 60 cycle but run at 17% faster than on 50 cycle
[vaccume cleaner, coffee maker, etc.] so they heat up faster and higher. So
far no problem. Yes, as long as your computer and printer have a CE
cetificate on the product they run fine on either 110 VAC 60 cycle or 220 VAC 60 cycle
without problems, you do need an adapter which does not have a common ground
circuit. That does make me nervious. I never leave those on overnight, just
in case.

Crash
"Windrush," Mango No.29


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Tank Refinishing

anniemno1 <no_reply@...>
 

Captain Nick,

Thanks for the very helpful reference. The other issue is surface
preparation. Was advised by a marine surveyor in Houston (Mike
Firestone) to water blast the tank with a media such as walnut shells
prior to application of the resin.

Will advise all of success of process.

John

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "koutsoukos Nikos"
<koutsoukosnikos@...> wrote:

Hallo I am Nick and owner of a kirk i am master mariner and
sailing atanker at the moment in north sea ,I suggest what we use in
the ships ,a heavy duty one as follows.
A good coating of a well known company is INTERNATIONAL :
INTERLINE 850 (WHITE OR BUFF) PRODUCT CODE:TLA 850/A
Surface preperation :sand paper or grinding ,cleaning.
Dry film thikness (dft 125 microns about two coatings with
roller),touch dry at 25deg C 5 hrs ,overcoating at same temp. min
8hrs max 30 days
Thinner GTA 420.
To avoid unpleasent odors in the water later let it dy well.

rgds
cpt.Nick
----- Original Message -----
From: anniemno1
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 4:33 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Tank Refinishing


We discovered that the fresh water tank coating is flaking on our
Mango. Has anyone refinished their fresh water tanks?

What was the process and where did you find the FDA approved
resin?

Regards,

Annie and John on Annie M. (Mango #1)





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: Water Tank Refinishing

anniemno1 <no_reply@...>
 

Serge,

Thanks for the info. Would appreciate Dominique's recommendation on
resin.

Fair Winds,

John and Annie
Annie M (Mango #1)




--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, "laetitiaii" <laetitiaii@...>
wrote:

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, anniemno1 <no_reply@>
wrote:

We discovered that the fresh water tank coating is flaking on our
Mango. Has anyone refinished their fresh water tanks?

What was the process and where did you find the FDA approved
resin?

Regards,

Annie and John on Annie M. (Mango #1)
A few years ago while in Martinique, I had my fuel tank ( on my
other
boat) redone by a worker who was using as finishing coat, a white
epoxy finishing resin (it looks like gel coat, but it is air
cured),
which he stated was also used to refinish repaired water tanks in
French charter catamarans which often have cracks after a Atlantic
crossing. I was advised this resin is commonly used to finish water
tanks in new boats. The epoxy finishing resins seems to be readily
available in Martinique from fiberglass and resin suppliers... If
necessary I could find the tel no of a friend (Dominique Rousselot)
who is a Marine Surveyor in Martinique, who possibly could give you
the name of the product. I am presently in Andalousia, Spain,
preparing for a crossing, i would have to look up for Dominique's
tel
no.

Serge

Mango #51


Re: 24 volt to 110 Inverter

Miles Bidwell <mbidwell@...>
 

I have found that almost all electronic devices now days can be charged with
either 60 cycle 115 or 50 cycle 220. All you need is some plug adaptors.
Also, all laptops that I am familiar with can be charged from a 12 volt DC
source using a cigarette lighter adopter.



Miles Bidwell SM219


Changing Water Heater Zinc & Vacuum Bags

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

Regarding Peter Pappas' saga of changing the zinc in the water heater (taking 4 hours). I did it a little differently. Cut off water and power, took off all eight bolts on the bottom. Water went into the bilge. Took off 2 straps holding the tank, picked up the tank to top of engine room while helper pulled out heating elements. Helper puts on the new zinc. I clean out the tank on dock, getting 1/2 lb of rust out. Take tank back aboard, lower into engine room, re-install the heating units and put on bolts and straps. Total time 1 hour. I left the hoses and wire all connected.

If anyone needs more space in your lockers you can try vacuum packing clothes and even sails using your vacuum cleaner). It is amazing how much space is saved. You can buy most of the bag sizes at Target but can also order the jumbo bags on the web (Space Bags). I put my mizzen ballooner (still in its bag) in the jumbo size and squeezed the 2' x 3' bag down to 5 inches thickness. For the main ballooner I took it out of the bag, folded it up and then vacuum bagged it to a thickness of about 8 inches. It can be done so easily you can do it after every use. I also vacuum packed 3 dufflebags into a very small bundle.

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Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 volt to 110 Inverter

john martin <symoondog@...>
 

I put a 24 volt to 100 V under the cabinets over the crew bunk (by the engine room). Ran the wire up through the cabinet down thru the small hanging locker out into the battery box. No problem. Can't hardly see it. Only turn it on when you need it. 1000 Watts. Pure Sine Wave is brand name.
John Martin
Moon Dog
SM 248


From: "pellegrini1942" <afpellegrini@aol.com>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] 24 volt to 110 Inverter
Date: Mon, 13 Nov 2006 14:13:58 -0000

I am considering installing a Prosine inverter, PS1000, that converts
24 volt to 110 volt power. The portable 12 volt inverter that I use
will not charge the newer bright screen laptops or certain other
devices.
Does anyone have any experience or advise on using a 24 volt to 110
volt inverter.
Regards,
Tony Pellegrini
Voyageur SM # 373

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Re: Shore power connection - Plug replacement

Craig Briggs
 

Jochen,
From personal experience, I'd strongly recommend you bite the bullet
and replace the whole thing. With the amount of corrosion in the
photograph, your on-board connector has got to be corroded, too, and
you've probably got a serious fire hazard.

If you replace everything, you'll undoubtedly get an escutcheon plate
with the new fitting, so the new paint job will not be affected.

Good luck,
Craig Briggs, Santorin #68


Fulring Boom for a Maramu

David Wallace
 

We are interested in installing a furling boom on our 1982 Maramu, which was built before Amel went to in-mast furling. We are tending toward the ProFurl Boom Furler at this point. Has any one in the group installed a furling boom on an Amel, or know of someone who has and can provide comment? I would be very ineterested to know if doing this is considered feasible, and if there are any particular issues to be aware of.

Thanks,

Dave Wallace
s/v Air Ops
Maramu #104

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Shore power connection - Plug replacement

Jochen Hofmann <jochen@...>
 

Hi all,

here's another little issue we have on board Blue Song:

If you look at the picture that I placed in the "Blue Song - Maramu
#143" album you can see that the plug from the shorepower cable has
really reached the end of its useful life. Of course all standards
have changed since this was made....

Does anyone know if (and if yes then where) I can get a replacement
plug for it. The only alternative would be to replace the on-board
connector as well and considering the beautiful new paint job that has
been done on our boat I would really like to avoid that.

Thanks in advance and fair winds,

Jochen Hofmann
S/V Blue Song


Sharp Autopilot - Manuals

Jochen Hofmann <jochen@...>
 

Hi all,

many of us sailing the seasoned Amels have this great unit onboard.
While I might one day consider replacing the Autopilot Electronics so
I can interface with the Raymarine equipment I had fitted about 2
years ago I definitely want to keep the drive unit "forever" as
nowadays I don't think units that solid are manufactured any longer.

My issue is: I do have a manual, but ONLY for the electronics. Does
anyone have a manual for the drive unit ???? And would be willing to
copy/scan/whatever it and let me have it (of course I'll cover cost
that might be involved) ???? Would feel much safer with one if we go
long-distance cruising early next year.

Also I'd like to know what kind of maintenance do you do to it, what
kind of problems did/do you experience if any.

I put a photo of the unit in the new album (Blue Song - Maramu #143) I
just created in the Pictures section.

Thanks to all and fair winds,

Jochen Hofmann
S/V Blue Song


Re: gel coat repair

Craig Briggs
 

Joe,
We've also got a 92 Santorin with a couple of nicks (from a prior
owner, of course, not us :-)

We were in La Rochelle last summer and picked up the gelcoat from
Olivier Beaute, whom you probably know of in Amel's "after service"
department. I'm sure he can ship it to you. We also picked some up in
Amel's service shop in Guadeloupe a few years ago.

This is probably the only way to guarantee a perfect match as we had
tried with a "mix-n-match" kit and it was barely passable - the factory
goop is perfect - just add the hardener catalyst, apply and then sand &
polish. You can't tell it's there.

We got three colors: hull white, deck white and rub rail brown; the
deck "faux teak" brown should be available too. By the way, we also
replaced the Amel decals on the coach roof sides that were terribly
faded - simple job that really looks great.

Cheers, Craig Briggs


gel coat repair

joseph mc donnell
 

I have a minor gel coat repair job to do on our 92 Santorin Khamsin B.
Can anyone point me in the right direction, as to where I can purchace
a small amount of gelcoat pigment for the job.
Thanks Joe McDonnell


Problem with Ocean Marine davits

Judy Rouse
 

We have a problem with Ocean Marine davits and our AB dinghy.



We cannot completely secure the dinghy in the davits. The AB dinghy
rises about 12" on the bow. This means when the bow is secure, the
stern still has about a foot to go. The davit fall lines and blocks
rise to the arm from the dinghy at a 45 degree angle per instructions.



We asked Ocean Marine about their optional stainless ratchet straps
which we heard they had supplied to another owner when he had a similar
problem. Ocean Marine seemed to get very defensive stating that they
have never supplied ratchet straps at no charge. They went on to say
the following:

Secure a line to the inside of the stern of the dinghy. Run this line
over the stern and under the dinghy. Use a trucker's hitch to
tighten and secure the line to the vertical cleat on the davit. This
cleat on the davit is in the perfect place for tying. Do the same with
another line from the point on the bow where the painter is
secured…"run this line under the dinghy and tighten to the opposite
site cleat using a trucker's hitch to tighten. It is the trucker's
hitch that makes the difference, but the fender is also needed on the
AB. If you simply tie the dinghy in bow and stern, you have no
mechanical advantage and no way to readjust if the dinghy loses air
pressure due to wind chill at sea. Therefore, the trucker's hitch is
fundamental to succeeding here."

We have an AB and followed their instructions exactly…here is what
we found and reported to them:

· We used a very large fender...11" in diameter---Not really
big enough for a tight fit when the blocks are as tight as they will go
and within 5" of one another. I am hesitant to buy a larger fender as
you know how much that will cost.

· The line that attaches to the stern and attaches with a
trucker's hitch and cleat on the davit rubs the bottom of the inboard
tube.

· The line that attaches to the bow and attaches with a
trucker's hitch and cleat on the davit rubs the bottom of the inboard
tube.

They responded to the above stating the ratchet straps usually rub
against the tubes and do not work well and "…not to blame a world
class product if you are unwilling to take some responsibility for
solving your tie in issues"



Any suggestions regarding how to secure an AB dinghy with Ocean Marine
davits would be appreciated.



Judy and Bill Rouse

S/V SECURITY SM2 #387





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Coolant loss in Volvo

ianjenkins1946 <ianjudyjenkins@hotmail.com>
 

thanks,Eric. both oil level and colour are fine.Ian


From: eric <kimberlite@optonline.net>
Reply-To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Coolant loss in Volvo
Date: Sat, 09 Dec 2006 19:36:14 -0500

Ian,

Has your crank case oil level gone up?

If it hasn't I guess you did have an airlock (probably in the water heater-
heat exchanger)

Fair Winds,

Eric





_____

From: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
[mailto:amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ian & Judy Jenkins
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 7:21 PM
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [spam] [Amel Yacht Owners] Coolant loss in Volvo



We have just had a curious experience with our coolant levels. Our engine is

6 years old with about 2,000 hours. Very reliable. Last May I drained all
the coolant and filled up with fresh antifreeze, carefully following the
instructions to open the bleed nut till the coolant overflowed it etc.The
boat was then ashore till November. The coolant level remained the same.( In

my experience the coolant has never needed topping up ).
When we first used the boat this November I found thtat after about 12 hours

it needed almost a litre of coolant to be added to bring it up to the
correct level. As there was no evidence at all of a leak I surmised that
there might have been an airlock. However, this happened again about 12
hours later, though to a lesser extent ( maybe one third of a litre). Since
then we have run for about 20 hours ( mainly at low revs but also flat out
for about 30 minutes) and have suffered no losss at all.
A Volvo mechanic I spoke to in the UK told me that it was probably one of
the O rings that was`allowing the coolant to escape into the exhaust water,
hence no trace in the engine room.Try as I may to read the exploded diagram
in the parts manual and the workshop manual to fit his diagnosis I cant see
how a perished O ring would allow what he claims.From what I can see, if an
O ring went , either coolant or sea water would appear on or under the
engine, but they wouldnt mix.
My view is that the engine probably did have an airlock when I refilled
with fresh coolant and that this took a couple of goes to work its way out
of the system. My Nordahavn friend, who has a Lugger engine , tells me that
he has had a very similar experience, having to top up three times after a
change of coolant.
I would be interested to hear if anyone else has had a similar experience.
Cheers, Ian and Judy, Pen Azen, SM 302, Mar del Plata, Argentina

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TDS meters

John and Anne on Bali Hai <annejohn@...>
 

TDS meters can be sourced through the web sites in my message No 2254.
The cheap model which I bought needs a little care before fitting as
they are calibrated, if I understand the instructions correctly, with
the sensing probes pushed all the way in. The problem with this is
that the correct angle to the flow is shown by two dots, one on the
fitting and one on the sensor probe and when pushed all the way in
this dot vanishes.
The solution is to use a marker pen to put a line above the dot on the
probe and another on the fitting so that it is easy to get it right.

Good luck with it, John Hollamby, SM 319


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Marine Surveyor in Antigua

koutsoukos Nikos
 

Hi i am cpt Nick.
In st.Johns Antigua ther is a U.K. P@I club That probably can help you.
PHILLIPS ,PHILLIPS @ ARCHIBALD
PO Box546, st Marys street, st John's

tel : 1 268 4620077
email :awarchibald@hotmail.com

after hours : William Archibald tel .1 268 4613 604

rgds
cpt .Nick

----- Original Message -----
From: amelliahona
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, December 11, 2006 12:37 PM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Marine Surveyor in Antigua


Anybody know/can recommend a marine surveyor in Antigua, BWI? My boat has reached the
magic age off 5 years and the insurance company demands a survey.

Regards, Gary Silver, s/v Liahona SM 335


Re: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Tank Refinishing

koutsoukos Nikos
 

Hallo I am Nick and owner of a kirk i am master mariner and sailing atanker at the moment in north sea ,I suggest what we use in the ships ,a heavy duty one as follows.
A good coating of a well known company is INTERNATIONAL : INTERLINE 850 (WHITE OR BUFF) PRODUCT CODE:TLA 850/A
Surface preperation :sand paper or grinding ,cleaning.
Dry film thikness (dft 125 microns about two coatings with roller),touch dry at 25deg C 5 hrs ,overcoating at same temp. min 8hrs max 30 days
Thinner GTA 420.
To avoid unpleasent odors in the water later let it dy well.

rgds
cpt.Nick

----- Original Message -----
From: anniemno1
To: amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Sunday, December 10, 2006 4:33 AM
Subject: [Amel Yacht Owners] Water Tank Refinishing


We discovered that the fresh water tank coating is flaking on our
Mango. Has anyone refinished their fresh water tanks?

What was the process and where did you find the FDA approved resin?

Regards,

Annie and John on Annie M. (Mango #1)


[Amel Yacht Owners] Re: TDS levels

Judy Rouse
 

We bought the Film-Tec membranes from Air, Water & Ice in FL; think the
cost was about $179 each. TDS meter was about $40 but don't remember
name of company. I think Gary Silver made a posting on this group site
about the Film-Tec membranes. You could try searching for that.

BTW, the first few seconds of product water tests at TDS levels
exceeding 4,000, even with our new membranes. We discard the product
water until it tests about 150 before adding any to our tank. This can
take 5 to 10 minutes before acceptable water is produced.

Judy
S/V Security
SM2 #387

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, michael grunstein
<mgrunstein2002@...> wrote:

The watermaker performance on my boat seems to be like
yours before you replaced the membranes. My watermaker
is the Dessalator D60, and I am interested to know
where you bought the membranes, the TDS meter and
their cost.
Thank you,

Michael Grunstein, S/V Yonita #345


Marine Surveyor in Antigua

amelliahona <no_reply@...>
 

Anybody know/can recommend a marine surveyor in Antigua, BWI? My boat has reached the
magic age off 5 years and the insurance company demands a survey.

Regards, Gary Silver, s/v Liahona SM 335


Re: Water Tank Refinishing

laetitiaii <laetitiaii@...>
 

--- In amelyachtowners@yahoogroups.com, anniemno1 <no_reply@...>
wrote:

We discovered that the fresh water tank coating is flaking on our
Mango. Has anyone refinished their fresh water tanks?

What was the process and where did you find the FDA approved resin?

Regards,

Annie and John on Annie M. (Mango #1)
A few years ago while in Martinique, I had my fuel tank ( on my other
boat) redone by a worker who was using as finishing coat, a white
epoxy finishing resin (it looks like gel coat, but it is air cured),
which he stated was also used to refinish repaired water tanks in
French charter catamarans which often have cracks after a Atlantic
crossing. I was advised this resin is commonly used to finish water
tanks in new boats. The epoxy finishing resins seems to be readily
available in Martinique from fiberglass and resin suppliers... If
necessary I could find the tel no of a friend (Dominique Rousselot)
who is a Marine Surveyor in Martinique, who possibly could give you
the name of the product. I am presently in Andalousia, Spain,
preparing for a crossing, i would have to look up for Dominique's tel
no.

Serge

Mango #51